HeyTeam Sailrite, thanks for a great how to DIY video on the flexi solar panels install. ...well documented and explained. It's fantastic that your passing forward your knowledge and experience for others to learn from.Thank you.👏👏
Thank You. I am going to install panels on similar Bimini and will pass your tutorial to the company that will do it. I have some guarante than that this will be done right!
1. This is an informative video and I like the workmanship and talent you've shared. 2. I'm not expert but I 'think' those cables running over top of the panels is going to significantly reduce the effectiveness of the output. I suggest you test the output of the panel with the cables blocking and then without the cables blocking. I know it doesn't seem like the cables are that big but you might be surprised to see the difference in efficiency. Either way, this video inspires.
Agree with Brian. The cables running across the panels will drop the output of the entire panel, and the fabric also covers the edges of the cells in the panel.
Agree with Brian and Michael as well. Solar panels are severely impacted by even slight shading. Changing the way he did the wires would be critical imo. Otherwise, a excellent video and technique.
Brian hopes that he can train the cables and possibly use cable ties to keep them off the solar panels. We will keep you posted on the results a little later this year.
I adapted this technique to install two half-sized solar panels on our sailboat's dodger. Great project design and the Tenax fasteners are an excellent idea. I used Brian's idea of making openings for the wires in the fabric frame corners nearest to the aft center line, close to the hinged panel. It worked very well, two leads come out straight and the other two (180 degrees apart) point away from the hole can be trained behind the raised lip of the main plastic connector to follow the same path - no cable falls on the solar cells at all. I am sure this will work for the double sized panel. An opening for the cables was made by ripping the stitching around the corner about two inches on each side and reinforcing the edges of the slit. You could equally well just not sew that part. It doesn't appear to affect the support for the panel. After building the fabric frames for the panels I had to stitch most of three sides of each of them to the dodger by hand (used an awl and a sewing machine needle) because the dodger has so much vinyl that I couldn't reasonably get the other sides under the machine. We are in the process of building a bimini so we'll probably put more panels on that. That will be easier to sew on the fabric frames with the machine.
I've been excited for this video ever since you tweeted about it, but I must say, the awesome plaid pants were a cool bonus :-P Thanks for this. I don't have a boat yet. That's in the works, looking for a junker to restore now that I'm fairly confident I can do all of the upholstery myself, but I have a idea for another project based on this.
I'm making a suggestion place shelter right on the bimini across the bow. I saw a fire created where a panel caught fire because a conductive path got created through the fabric on the bimini. Luckily the damage was contained to the bimini and panel as the skipper was onboard and extinguished the fire. It would add durability to the are over the bow from the panel being stressed at the bent spot. You eliminated the flogging of the panel with this design and that flogging was likely what cause the abrasion of the fabric and panel cracking. Nothing wrong with another layer of protection.
Excellent Sailrite guide! A question which of the two Loxx models should I use to perform the solar panel installation similar to the one you did? 1- Loxx® Pull It Up Fastener Cloth ‑ to ‑ Cloth for Thick Assemblies Set (Nickel) Item # 121363. 2- Loxx® Pull It Up Fastener Cloth ‑ to ‑ Cloth Set (Nickel) Item # 121361
@@a5853247 Shelter Rite: 3" & 2" strips that will equal the perimeter distance around all sides of each solar panel. See 3:25 min in video for more details. Sunbrella: 3 1/2" strips that will equal the perimeter distance around all sides of each solar panel. See: 4:20 min for more info.
Definitely some great craftsmanship on display here, however solar panels are extremely susceptible to "shading" (sun being blocked from reaching the panel). Even one cell being shaded will affect the entire panel's output, drastically. So, these sleeves that you have around the circumference of the panel will overlap some cells, thereby affecting the entire panel's output. What about sewing zippers around the panel and then creating something on the bimini to zip the panel to? Is this possible?
There are better solar panels that have protections from the shading effect. All the ones I have has this protection and they are 4 years old. Yes you loose production in what is shaded but tit doesn't impact the rest of the solar panel output or even the rest of that block. It is all about how all the tiny cells are wired. In fact the mil spec panels are wired that bullet holes will only affect the missing cell and not those around it.
My concern with this method is that, although the installation allows for water drainage in the corners, that moisture will still be present under the panels that won’t dry out easily because there is no or little airflow. This can result in algae or mold accumulation damaging the canvas over time. I would be interested in Sailrite’s feedback regarding this concern.
The solar panels were installed on Brian's bimini (he works here at Sailrite). I asked him if he had any issues with mold growing under the panel over the years. He said that he had no issues at all. He removed the solar panels once a year for cleaning, but never had mold on the fabric or the solar panels. Remember that mold can't grow to a synthetic fabric, but it does grown on the dirt that gets imbedded in the weave of the fabric when it gets damp and heats up. So... keeping it clean is key. Brian did say that he had a little mold on the underside of his bimini (the inside, not the top), but not where the solar panels were installed on the undeside of the top. He thinks that the solar panels actually prevented the canvas (on the underside) from collecting condensation which helped prevent the mold growth on the bottom of the bimini top from developing.
We are using the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 Sewing Machine found here: www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Portable-Heavy-Duty-Sewing-Machines/Ultrafeed-LSZ-1-Sewing-Machine
I've read recently that flexible solar panels can develop cracks that lead to internal shorts and overheating. I've seen recommendations against attaching them directly to fabric. Apparently they have been the cause of fires. Instead the recommendation is to glue them to a piece of corrugated lexan (the kind with air channels). The channels would run fore and aft for ventilation. In that case, I would think that only the sides of the panels should be attached to the bimini, leaving the ends open for air flow. Has anyone here considered the fire risk and a way to ventilate between the panel and the bimini? Would attaching the panel only along the sides cause it to be knocked around by wind?
A sail shadow over any one square of these panels will render the whole panel it inactive. With no intent to be insulting, this install is technically wrong in every way possible. It would be best to consult with a solar panel expert about the best configuration including use of parallel charge control, mppt charging option and battery type. Length and gauge of wire also has a large impact on charging effectiveness. At a minimum ensuring that no shadow falls anywhere on one of those panels at a time will ensure that some charging effect is available when sun is out as long as you are using heavy enough gauge wire, along with parallel charging. Series charging gives higher output total, with higher voltage and hence lower wire gauge. The down side to series is that any one square in shade results in no charge for the whole system. In addition, the smallest voltage gain for the worst square in the panel will determine the output for that whole panel. When panels are linked in series, then the contamination from a bad square spreads to every panel in that series hookup. As a result for your installation some kind of larger backer board could be used to epoxy the solar panels to. When you are going that far you might as well build a proper frame over the bimini and give yourself some firmer mounting options. But please if you are contemplating solar, do investigate thoroughly. This is one area of boat tech that costs a lot regardless of whether you get it right or not. Education is free and will definitely help you set and meet your expectations properly.
Thanks for your comments! Here are the results of this solar panel's performance this summer from the owner of the boat.... The panels are functioning quite well, and are keeping the house batteries charged nicely during the week, as well as supplementing capacity on the sunny weekend days. If this was a bluewater cruising boat, there would be differentconsiderations. Since the boat is used for weekending, the output is adequate enough for supplying additional electrical capacity on the weekends, and the bank recovers very nicely during the week. It is serving the boat owner’s needs well.
My main concern was to inform other potential installers that there are better options producing a lot more consistent power, available with a little education and care for nearly the same dollar spent. The longer run of several seasons will tell more of the tale.
@@michaelrempel9025 the main concern for most people, myself included is panel placement due to lack of space. On top of the bimini seems ideal for many reasons albeit with a few drawbacks. A slight loss in efficiency greatly outweighs a large loss in usable deck space, etc.
you can probably order these panels with the connection and wires on the back of the panel instead of the front. I could choose what I wanted. The junction box would be in the sleeve with zipper and would look great from the top. pannels totally flat at all edges and no wores covering the panel. hard shades make performance drop fast on these panels.
HeyTeam Sailrite, thanks for a great how to DIY video on the flexi solar panels install. ...well documented and explained.
It's fantastic that your passing forward your knowledge and experience for others to learn from.Thank you.👏👏
I can appreciate this man’s style. Red and white plaid pants with a Sailrite blue shirt! 😉
Thank You. I am going to install panels on similar Bimini and will pass your tutorial to the company that will do it. I have some guarante than that this will be done right!
1. This is an informative video and I like the workmanship and talent you've shared.
2. I'm not expert but I 'think' those cables running over top of the panels is going to significantly reduce the effectiveness of the output. I suggest you test the output of the panel with the cables blocking and then without the cables blocking. I know it doesn't seem like the cables are that big but you might be surprised to see the difference in efficiency.
Either way, this video inspires.
Agree with Brian. The cables running across the panels will drop the output of the entire panel, and the fabric also covers the edges of the cells in the panel.
Agree with Brian and Michael as well. Solar panels are severely impacted by even slight shading. Changing the way he did the wires would be critical imo. Otherwise, a excellent video and technique.
Brian hopes that he can train the cables and possibly use cable ties to keep them off the solar panels. We will keep you posted on the results a little later this year.
I adapted this technique to install two half-sized solar panels on our sailboat's dodger. Great project design and the Tenax fasteners are an excellent idea.
I used Brian's idea of making openings for the wires in the fabric frame corners nearest to the aft center line, close to the hinged panel.
It worked very well, two leads come out straight and the other two (180 degrees apart) point away from the hole can be trained behind the raised lip of the main plastic connector to follow the same path - no cable falls on the solar cells at all. I am sure this will work for the double sized panel.
An opening for the cables was made by ripping the stitching around the corner about two inches on each side and reinforcing the edges of the slit. You could equally well just not sew that part. It doesn't appear to affect the support for the panel.
After building the fabric frames for the panels I had to stitch most of three sides of each of them to the dodger by hand (used an awl and a sewing machine needle) because the dodger has so much vinyl that I couldn't reasonably get the other sides under the machine.
We are in the process of building a bimini so we'll probably put more panels on that. That will be easier to sew on the fabric frames with the machine.
J. Brian Bobiak -
WOW, you truly went the long way around. there are many ways to attach panels, that are much easier and faster than what you did here.
Please express the way you have done it?
let's see your install, chief.
I've been excited for this video ever since you tweeted about it, but I must say, the awesome plaid pants were a cool bonus :-P Thanks for this. I don't have a boat yet. That's in the works, looking for a junker to restore now that I'm fairly confident I can do all of the upholstery myself, but I have a idea for another project based on this.
I am glad you liked the video and the plaid pants. Let us know if you have questions.
Thank you for all the links!
No problem! Glad I could be of help.
I'm making a suggestion place shelter right on the bimini across the bow. I saw a fire created where a panel caught fire because a conductive path got created through the fabric on the bimini. Luckily the damage was contained to the bimini and panel as the skipper was onboard and extinguished the fire. It would add durability to the are over the bow from the panel being stressed at the bent spot. You eliminated the flogging of the panel with this design and that flogging was likely what cause the abrasion of the fabric and panel cracking. Nothing wrong with another layer of protection.
Excellent guide Sailrite! You did Great! Awesome pattern maker! Thanks for us giving tips! I like the idea you make it easy to remove.
Thank for the good advices
Excellent Sailrite guide! A question which of the two Loxx models should I use to perform the solar panel installation similar to the one you did?
1- Loxx® Pull It Up Fastener Cloth ‑ to ‑ Cloth for Thick Assemblies Set (Nickel)
Item # 121363.
2- Loxx® Pull It Up Fastener Cloth ‑ to ‑ Cloth Set (Nickel)
Item # 121361
I would get the Thick Assemblies Set #121363.
Good morning, thanks for the information.
I would like to know how wide the Shelter Rite and Sunbrella strips should be cut?
@@a5853247 Shelter Rite: 3" & 2" strips that will equal the perimeter distance around all sides of each solar panel. See 3:25 min in video for more details.
Sunbrella: 3 1/2" strips that will equal the perimeter distance around all sides of each solar panel. See: 4:20 min for more info.
AWESOME!!! Thank you for putting up this video, it was incredibly well done and informative.
Glad you liked it!
Isn't the norm that you avoid running the panel over a bow? The ridge damamges the panel over time.
The coating of thr hook is a great tip.
thanks
Yes it is, working with a PTFE thread can be difficult. This little tip make a big difference.
Do you still recommend this solution? I like your bimini, very well made.
Definitely some great craftsmanship on display here, however solar panels are extremely susceptible to "shading" (sun being blocked from reaching the panel). Even one cell being shaded will affect the entire panel's output, drastically. So, these sleeves that you have around the circumference of the panel will overlap some cells, thereby affecting the entire panel's output. What about sewing zippers around the panel and then creating something on the bimini to zip the panel to? Is this possible?
There are better solar panels that have protections from the shading effect. All the ones I have has this protection and they are 4 years old. Yes you loose production in what is shaded but tit doesn't impact the rest of the solar panel output or even the rest of that block. It is all about how all the tiny cells are wired. In fact the mil spec panels are wired that bullet holes will only affect the missing cell and not those around it.
My concern with this method is that, although the installation allows for water drainage in the corners, that moisture will still be present under the panels that won’t dry out easily because there is no or little airflow. This can result in algae or mold accumulation damaging the canvas over time. I would be interested in Sailrite’s feedback regarding this concern.
The solar panels were installed on Brian's bimini (he works here at Sailrite). I asked him if he had any issues with mold growing under the panel over the years. He said that he had no issues at all. He removed the solar panels once a year for cleaning, but never had mold on the fabric or the solar panels. Remember that mold can't grow to a synthetic fabric, but it does grown on the dirt that gets imbedded in the weave of the fabric when it gets damp and heats up. So... keeping it clean is key. Brian did say that he had a little mold on the underside of his bimini (the inside, not the top), but not where the solar panels were installed on the undeside of the top. He thinks that the solar panels actually prevented the canvas (on the underside) from collecting condensation which helped prevent the mold growth on the bottom of the bimini top from developing.
5 years on, do you guys still recommend this kind of setup? Any issues?
Lol.. a year later and still no response. I’m going to guess “NOPE”! 😂
How many hours of labor takes this kind of install. Thanks
I would estimate about 8 hours or less.
Nice tip on cleaning and oiling the shuttle! Always learning things these videos. Will Sailrite have the panels someday?
We love to help our customers and show off our products. Let us know if you have questions.
Hill.
You are covering partially the cells with the sunbrella and with the wire, so losing 80% of the panel capacity.
Your pants are great!
I think a different sunbrella color would make a nice contrast with the bimini. something like white, gray, or even a nice yellow would work.
Good suggestion.
what sewing machine are you using?
We are using the Sailrite Ultrafeed LSZ-1 Sewing Machine found here: www.sailrite.com/Sewing-Machines/Portable-Heavy-Duty-Sewing-Machines/Ultrafeed-LSZ-1-Sewing-Machine
@@SailriteDIY thank you.
I've read recently that flexible solar panels can develop cracks that lead to internal shorts and overheating. I've seen recommendations against attaching them directly to fabric. Apparently they have been the cause of fires. Instead the recommendation is to glue them to a piece of corrugated lexan (the kind with air channels). The channels would run fore and aft for ventilation. In that case, I would think that only the sides of the panels should be attached to the bimini, leaving the ends open for air flow. Has anyone here considered the fire risk and a way to ventilate between the panel and the bimini? Would attaching the panel only along the sides cause it to be knocked around by wind?
A great job 👍 but a very costly way to follow. People has money no skills. People has skills no money. Laughing 😂😂😂
I have the panels. Where can I order the “casing”? Thks
Do you mean the facing on the Fabric for the sides of the panels? If so you can get them here: www.sailrite.com/
One problem. How many people will have all that equipment ? Bugger all
How many watts are these panels?
Each of these panels are 120 watts.
very good
Thanks!
thanks for sharing
You welcome!
La maquina es Buena cociendo segun que cosas. se ve que e sun soplillo para esa lona tan grande.
thanks for tutarial
No problem! Let us know if you have questions.
Lots of work for a very poor outcome. If your wires are blocking anything on the solar panel you have failed the installation. RTFM!
You must have ZERO shadoes from close objects. Clouds are OK.
A sail shadow over any one square of these panels will render the whole panel it inactive. With no intent to be insulting, this install is technically wrong in every way possible. It would be best to consult with a solar panel expert about the best configuration including use of parallel charge control, mppt charging option and battery type. Length and gauge of wire also has a large impact on charging effectiveness. At a minimum ensuring that no shadow falls anywhere on one of those panels at a time will ensure that some charging effect is available when sun is out as long as you are using heavy enough gauge wire, along with parallel charging. Series charging gives higher output total, with higher voltage and hence lower wire gauge. The down side to series is that any one square in shade results in no charge for the whole system. In addition, the smallest voltage gain for the worst square in the panel will determine the output for that whole panel. When panels are linked in series, then the contamination from a bad square spreads to every panel in that series hookup. As a result for your installation some kind of larger backer board could be used to epoxy the solar panels to. When you are going that far you might as well build a proper frame over the bimini and give yourself some firmer mounting options. But please if you are contemplating solar, do investigate thoroughly. This is one area of boat tech that costs a lot regardless of whether you get it right or not. Education is free and will definitely help you set and meet your expectations properly.
Thanks for your comments!
Here are the results of this solar panel's performance this summer from the owner of the boat....
The panels are functioning quite well, and are keeping the house batteries charged nicely during the week, as well as supplementing capacity on the sunny weekend days. If this was a bluewater cruising boat, there would be differentconsiderations. Since the boat is used for weekending, the output is adequate enough for supplying additional electrical capacity on the weekends, and the bank recovers very nicely during the week. It is serving the boat owner’s needs well.
My main concern was to inform other potential installers that there are better options producing a lot more consistent power, available with a little education and care for nearly the same dollar spent. The longer run of several seasons will tell more of the tale.
@@michaelrempel9025 the main concern for most people, myself included is panel placement due to lack of space. On top of the bimini seems ideal for many reasons albeit with a few drawbacks. A slight loss in efficiency greatly outweighs a large loss in usable deck space, etc.
Say good bye to the durability of your cheap ass flexible panels:
ruclips.net/video/onMZ_dRSFUs/видео.html
you can probably order these panels with the connection and wires on the back of the panel instead of the front. I could choose what I wanted. The junction box would be in the sleeve with zipper and would look great from the top. pannels totally flat at all edges and no wores covering the panel. hard shades make performance drop fast on these panels.