Hey mate been watching your vids for past 2 days after landing a formwork carpentry job (am currently a domestic carpenter) this is great content, I've learnt alot. I have subscribed, hopefully you have some more videos in the pipe works
Hi Rob, thanks for watching. I want to make more videos, I just don't really enjoy the editing enough. And it takes a lot of time, about 8hrs per video, now I have 2 kids I font have the spare time. Once they are a bit older I'll get back into it
I dont really find it that much quicker as there are extras you have to do to make it safe to lift and there is also time wasted waiting for cranes.. but on a job like this it is much easier on the body to build it on the ground. Anything lower I will always do without a crane.
Sometimes it's not possible, sometimes you can reach in with an offcut. I build the walls in a way where I can get to all the important corners. When I can't I use a 50 and 300 grit diamond honing pad on a sander to lightly round the corner after. It comes up almost the same. The honing pads leave a polished surface just like the silicone does.
Looking splendid sir! I was just wondering was the crane necessary here? We usually do first "braces?" Vertically on walls taller than 1200mm. Then you can double up with casettes 1200x whatever the desired height without the use of a crane. Of course we mostly use 12mm plywood so it requires quite a few studs to support it, 150mm intervals. My experience is from commercial side of course. I understand you want your surfaces to be spot on as you run your own business. Really looking forward to seeing the stair formwork that is up next!
I usually do not use a crane. But 6m high is high, physically I do not want to have to pass sheets up 6m to nail them off... much easier on the ground. But we did have some issues with crane drivers and bookings so yes anything normal height about 3-4m we will build as you say. Thanks for watching.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 Totally understandable sir! I do see you use horizontal support first, any reason for this? Very curious as we always do vertical first.
One of the guys who helps me sometimes builds them the way you mention. To be honest I have only seen it done that way once or twice in my life! I said to him I want him to show me sometime but I'm struggling to imagine how it will be easier... but I am open to trying it. What I like about horizontal is I can put my centers closer at the bottom of wall where most pressure is and space further at top. You will see I have done this in the video. I went about 240mm centers at bottom and 400mm centers at top.
I’d like to do something similar, but it’s not so much the form work that phases me, but more the vibrating of the concrete so you get a great face and no voids. Any tips on this aspect?
Great work and video. Wanted to ask you - at what measurements do you do each time the threaded rod? What liquid have you used to spray on the plywood? Thanks
The centre's I used on this job was 600mmx600mm due to the hydraulic pressure from 6m high conc. Usually I go 900wx600h. When I don't need to follow a pattern I space even further, about 1100mmx900mmhigh. The oil I used here was formoil which is 60% diesel. But it damages the ply if applied too early. I have started using lanolin exclusively and applying minutes before the conc. Lanolin is not very effective once it dries. Diesel doesn't dry/soak as easy so it is better for applying early. But as I said is screws up the glue in the ply.
It is oil. To repel the water in the concrete. If you repel the water from the surface you will get more cement against the forms which creates a stronger, smoother finish with less air bubbles.
Thanks for asking Spyder. Been too busy with jobs, life and family to film and some jobs have been the kind you can't film on. Check out my instagram bmformwork. I have a couple of new vids filmed and just need time to edit them now.
great work! I wanted to ask. we're in the northeast near the water and our house is raised 5' high (after sandy) and we were wondering if it could be raised higher, to 8' which is standard for similar homes in the area. and one more question. can you give us a ballpark figure on costs?
Absolutely awesome job mate, turned out smick as! How did the concreters go about vibrating at the bottom and what mix concrete? Thanks mate love your vids
Blokes on the vibe looked pretty tired. 90 slump, 10mm stone, 40mpa. Would have gone 100slump but with the height I wanted it to have a bit less water to squeeze out any gaps.
Cnc would be nice! No its done onsite, sometimes we don't Need a hole somewhere or want some in a different spot so it pays to drill as required, we drill 3 or 4 sheets at a time straight from the pack so it doesn't take too long.
My spacings are 300 centers on the timbers, 600 spacings on the soldiers. But this is for a bolt pattern effect. I usually go further. My timbers are 67x97mm and 47mmx97mm
I just did one... but I didn't film it. Very rare I do them. But I build internal shutters 1 for each side obviously and I keep the ply short of the corners say 500mm. Then I build separate corner shutters say 480x480, (4of) and you install the main shutters then install the corners. When you strip you use push pulls to wind the shutters in, pull the corners off and raise the shutters. The floor is done using wall pockets so it just slots in as you lift it up. Very easy.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 I can totally relate to that ! They are quality problems to have! It’s nice to hear your busy! I look forward to your return and more quality viewing! 👍
Perhaps but easier is not the aim here. Bespoke insitu concrete we’re achieving is an architectural “look” which is very desirable in modern architecture.
Hey mate been watching your vids for past 2 days after landing a formwork carpentry job (am currently a domestic carpenter) this is great content, I've learnt alot. I have subscribed, hopefully you have some more videos in the pipe works
Hi Rob, thanks for watching. I want to make more videos, I just don't really enjoy the editing enough. And it takes a lot of time, about 8hrs per video, now I have 2 kids I font have the spare time. Once they are a bit older I'll get back into it
Good idea using a crane, saved so much time
I dont really find it that much quicker as there are extras you have to do to make it safe to lift and there is also time wasted waiting for cranes.. but on a job like this it is much easier on the body to build it on the ground. Anything lower I will always do without a crane.
Keep the vids coming mate 👍
Will do my best to
Love love love your work mate unreal stuff
Thx
Beautiful Work! Can you share the Tips of installing Tie Rod, plastic pipe sleeve and cone faster?
There are no secrets really. Just have to set yourself up like a production line. I cut them with a mitre saw 2 or 3 conduits at a time.
Hey mate love the videos just wondering if you can put up a spiral stairs video
Thanks
When I get my next spiral I will do my best
Nice work guys but can you show me how you manage to apply silicone at the wall corner when the panels or shutters is erected up ?
Sometimes it's not possible, sometimes you can reach in with an offcut. I build the walls in a way where I can get to all the important corners. When I can't I use a 50 and 300 grit diamond honing pad on a sander to lightly round the corner after. It comes up almost the same. The honing pads leave a polished surface just like the silicone does.
Beautiful!!!
Thanks
Admire your work, you make it look easy but I know this is so hard to do. Do you request any special mix to the concrete?
Thanks. Yes we do
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 you mind sharing the mix?
amazing quality
Thanks
Awesome work brother 👍
Thanks
Looking splendid sir!
I was just wondering was the crane necessary here? We usually do first "braces?" Vertically on walls taller than 1200mm. Then you can double up with casettes 1200x whatever the desired height without the use of a crane.
Of course we mostly use 12mm plywood so it requires quite a few studs to support it, 150mm intervals.
My experience is from commercial side of course. I understand you want your surfaces to be spot on as you run your own business.
Really looking forward to seeing the stair formwork that is up next!
I usually do not use a crane. But 6m high is high, physically I do not want to have to pass sheets up 6m to nail them off... much easier on the ground. But we did have some issues with crane drivers and bookings so yes anything normal height about 3-4m we will build as you say. Thanks for watching.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783
Totally understandable sir!
I do see you use horizontal support first, any reason for this? Very curious as we always do vertical first.
One of the guys who helps me sometimes builds them the way you mention. To be honest I have only seen it done that way once or twice in my life! I said to him I want him to show me sometime but I'm struggling to imagine how it will be easier... but I am open to trying it. What I like about horizontal is I can put my centers closer at the bottom of wall where most pressure is and space further at top. You will see I have done this in the video. I went about 240mm centers at bottom and 400mm centers at top.
I’d like to do something similar, but it’s not so much the form work that phases me, but more the vibrating of the concrete so you get a great face and no voids.
Any tips on this aspect?
Hire a pro
Great work and video.
Wanted to ask you - at what measurements do you do each time the threaded rod? What liquid have you used to spray on the plywood? Thanks
The centre's I used on this job was 600mmx600mm due to the hydraulic pressure from 6m high conc. Usually I go 900wx600h. When I don't need to follow a pattern I space even further, about 1100mmx900mmhigh.
The oil I used here was formoil which is 60% diesel. But it damages the ply if applied too early. I have started using lanolin exclusively and applying minutes before the conc. Lanolin is not very effective once it dries. Diesel doesn't dry/soak as easy so it is better for applying early. But as I said is screws up the glue in the ply.
Thank you for your very detailed explanation- helpful indeed 👍
absolutely bonkers awsome ximox !!
Thabkyou
Sorry can i ask what water do you spray and than look shiny what thats use for? Thanks
It is oil. To repel the water in the concrete. If you repel the water from the surface you will get more cement against the forms which creates a stronger, smoother finish with less air bubbles.
Hey mate , just wondering when you siliconed the stop end how do you silicone the opposite side when the shutter goes up when you don’t use fillet .?
Yeah we put silicone there
How do you put silicone on the stop end when the other shutter is locked in.?
What of your form material can you salvage? Nails indicate that it can't be used again??
It can be reused about 30 times. But for these feature jobs we can only use once. I usually sell after use. Or I chop it up for building stairs.
Hey. I haven't seen you oist anything new in a while. How are you doing?
Thanks for asking Spyder. Been too busy with jobs, life and family to film and some jobs have been the kind you can't film on. Check out my instagram bmformwork. I have a couple of new vids filmed and just need time to edit them now.
Great job 👍
Where do you get your form work and accessories?
Cheers
Big river timber, acrow for bolts and lyher scaffold
Good job
Thx
great work! I wanted to ask. we're in the northeast near the water and our house is raised 5' high (after sandy) and we were wondering if it could be raised higher, to 8' which is standard for similar homes in the area. and one more question. can you give us a ballpark figure on costs?
Sorry mate I don't have any experience in what or where you're asking.
Absolutely awesome job mate, turned out smick as! How did the concreters go about vibrating at the bottom and what mix concrete? Thanks mate love your vids
Blokes on the vibe looked pretty tired. 90 slump, 10mm stone, 40mpa. Would have gone 100slump but with the height I wanted it to have a bit less water to squeeze out any gaps.
Do you guys have your formply cut by a CNC with all the holes drilled for you or do you do it on site? Cheers p.s wall looks mint
Cnc would be nice! No its done onsite, sometimes we don't Need a hole somewhere or want some in a different spot so it pays to drill as required, we drill 3 or 4 sheets at a time straight from the pack so it doesn't take too long.
Do you ever place your insulating foam inside the panel? Where will insulation go on this build?
no one insulates the concrete walls here.
Love it!!
Thx
What is the lumber size. The spacing ?
My spacings are 300 centers on the timbers, 600 spacings on the soldiers. But this is for a bolt pattern effect. I usually go further. My timbers are 67x97mm and 47mmx97mm
Very informative, thanks! Any chance you can mention how much something like this costs per SQM on average?
Hi, about $300m2 for formwork steel, scaff and conc.
Hey mate. Awesome job!
When you says a sq/m^2 is that either side if the wall or you calculate 1 side of the wall at 300sq/m?
Hey bud merry Christmas can you show us how you do a lift shaft 😊
I just did one... but I didn't film it. Very rare I do them. But I build internal shutters 1 for each side obviously and I keep the ply short of the corners say 500mm. Then I build separate corner shutters say 480x480, (4of) and you install the main shutters then install the corners. When you strip you use push pulls to wind the shutters in, pull the corners off and raise the shutters. The floor is done using wall pockets so it just slots in as you lift it up. Very easy.
What you use for sealing the connections?
The connections?
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 yes, connections between two plywoods. Some kind of glue?
How much does fair faced concrete wall cost usually?
About 5x more than brick or timber I believe
Any chance you keep posting videos so we can follow this entire house build? Very interesting. Thanks.
Will do my best
Do you provide consultant service?
Sure I can
Can u plz tell me the concrete ratio
40mpa, 90slump, 10mm stone
Tq
Is there much waste from this process or is the ply and boards reused on another job.
Re-used. Timber lasts years if you look after it. The ply I cut up for stairs and various other orks
how long before you stripped this? and how were the shutters fixed to the footing? just anchor bolts?
About 5 days. Yeah just fixed down with some screws.
Nice one! any tips for off form walls (we’re doing a retaining wall 800mm high) to prevent seeing ply joins every 2.4?
can you sketch one for me? in india
Sketch?
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 I mean Structural Design
No more vids? Have you been too busy?
One word thomo...Kids. I've had 2 kids since I started filming, and business has grown. Bit busy but I plan to get back into it soon.
@@bmformworkconcreteconstruc9783 I can totally relate to that ! They are quality problems to have! It’s nice to hear your busy! I look forward to your return and more quality viewing! 👍
it would have been easier if you poured it on the floor and erecting the pre-cast wall
Perhaps but easier is not the aim here. Bespoke insitu concrete we’re achieving is an architectural “look” which is very desirable in modern architecture.
Как вы это вибрировали ?
Vibrator