A good idea, very similar to what I did. I got a brand new high quality footswitch at the carboot for a quid and I also wired it into an single extension. I use it mostly for the drill press but I have used it on all manner of tools.
Thank's for your video, I am making one of these for my scroll saw. I am sticking with the double socket and patress as the two way extensions cannot be taken apart. Regards and thanks Ken
Peter great vid mate I've had a foot switch for ages that I wanted to attached to my dremel then thought I'd like to attach it to a socket so I can use it on any tool I plug in but wasn't sure about the wiring. I am now
That's very informative, thank you. I have been trying to think of a way of wiring a Marquardt foot switch into a piece of equipment however there are three different types of switches that they are selling and it's confusing as to know which one to use
A good idea, in fact, I am going to pinch it and make one for myself. One difference I will make is to put a rubber grommet on the wire going to the mains switch to stop any chance of the wire getting damaged. I thought about getting a socket that was already wired and our £ store sells them, but I am not going down that route as I like to make sure of the quality of the socket and without taking it apart (the shops don't usually like you doing that in-store) you cannot see the quality of the extension. Just a note on the method you are using to join the red and white wire is only a low voltage connector.
Thanks John, it's a 240v connector, but from a light fitting, so probably not good for more than 3 amps, I will dig out a bigger block and swap it put, - good point. Couldn't agree more on the grommet, I only had a big conduit one to hand, but it really should have had some form of sleeving, I shall keep an eye out for a suitable flexible outlet.
If you use a metal clad socket you can fit a flex gland to it which secures the extension cable, you could also use a wago connector for joining the cable
Yes David, in hindsight a more substantial metal box would have been a better choice, in practice it's holding up well, but if there's any damage I shall do an upgrade.
nicely done mate,this is exactly what I need the only thing I want to ask is that my pedal has a two core cable from it with brown and blue cable which one goes? where I'm not too sure
Hi Malcolm, if there are only two wires (and you are in the UK), you would connect the brown to the live in the plug that is feeding power in, and then connect the blue to the live in the socket you are using for your appliance. For a 'proper job' I would either wrap the blue wire from your switch in brown tape, paint it, or put a piece of brown insulation on the end of it to save the confusion of having two blue wires going into the power socket for the tool. Come back to me if this doesn't make sense, and I'll sort a drawing out.
Thats it... I am making the same.. Nice one John, i am going to use a METAL CLAD 13AMP DOUBLE 2 GANG Socket.. Thanks Update 17th Aug...all made and working for less than a Tenner
I'm totally confused 😕. I want to use foot pedal switches for my power tools, ie bandsaw scroll saw and pillar drill. I've managed to connect them all using an extension multi socket cable to my shop vac, I just move the hose. I'd like to do the same with the foot switch because I find it difficult to do precise work when I have to hold the wood in position to switch the machine on or off. It's soo easy with my sewing machine when I'm making clothes. So I hope 🙏 you can help. Kind regards Cindy
The problem with a lot of the devices, like scroll saws, is that they have the NVR switches with green for on, and a red kill switch. This means that the minute you switch off it needs the green go switch to be re-set. This will only work with anything with a straightforward on/off switch sadly.
Sorry for the delay, as I've been away from RUclips for a couple of weeks, as my wife has been in hospital. Unfortunately I don't, but any competent electrician should be able to put one together for you.
Not entirely sure, but I'm guessing brown and blue are the live and neutral in, and that black is the switched live power to the socket, the neutral from the socket can also connect to the blue wire. It's worth trying it out with low voltage, using a battery and bulb to confirm.
The NC is 'normally closed' and NO is normally open, these are both outputs from the same switch, and refer to their state when the pedal is not depressed. If you want it to operate machinery it is best to feed the white common to your power feed, then connect the machine or live terminal of the socket to normally open red wire, so that when you depress the switch it will switch the machine on. Neutral and earth, if applicable, are then just connected to the machine or socket as normal.
Thank you. That is exactly what I was looking for.
I did this project yesterday , works a treat , thanks for the very good tutorial .
A good idea, very similar to what I did. I got a brand new high quality footswitch at the carboot for a quid and I also wired it into an single extension. I use it mostly for the drill press but I have used it on all manner of tools.
Thank's for your video, I am making one of these for my scroll saw. I am sticking with the double socket and patress as the two way extensions cannot be taken apart. Regards and thanks Ken
Peter great vid mate I've had a foot switch for ages that I wanted to attached to my dremel then thought I'd like to attach it to a socket so I can use it on any tool I plug in but wasn't sure about the wiring. I am now
What a good idea. Thanks for sharing.
That's very informative, thank you. I have been trying to think of a way of wiring a Marquardt foot switch into a piece of equipment however there are three different types of switches that they are selling and it's confusing as to know which one to use
Only thing I’d change Peter is the double socket for the industrial type due to the fact it’s on the floor other than that great idea I’m going for it
A good idea, in fact, I am going to pinch it and make one for myself. One difference I will make is to put a rubber grommet on the wire going to the mains switch to stop any chance of the wire getting damaged. I thought about getting a socket that was already wired and our £ store sells them, but I am not going down that route as I like to make sure of the quality of the socket and without taking it apart (the shops don't usually like you doing that in-store) you cannot see the quality of the extension. Just a note on the method you are using to join the red and white wire is only a low voltage connector.
Thanks John, it's a 240v connector, but from a light fitting, so probably not good for more than 3 amps, I will dig out a bigger block and swap it put, - good point.
Couldn't agree more on the grommet, I only had a big conduit one to hand, but it really should have had some form of sleeving, I shall keep an eye out for a suitable flexible outlet.
If you use a metal clad socket you can fit a flex gland to it which secures the extension cable, you could also use a wago connector for joining the cable
Yes David, in hindsight a more substantial metal box would have been a better choice, in practice it's holding up well, but if there's any damage I shall do an upgrade.
nicely done mate,this is exactly what I need the only thing I want to ask is that my pedal has a two core cable from it with brown and blue cable which one goes? where I'm not too sure
Hi Malcolm, if there are only two wires (and you are in the UK), you would connect the brown to the live in the plug that is feeding power in, and then connect the blue to the live in the socket you are using for your appliance. For a 'proper job' I would either wrap the blue wire from your switch in brown tape, paint it, or put a piece of brown insulation on the end of it to save the confusion of having two blue wires going into the power socket for the tool. Come back to me if this doesn't make sense, and I'll sort a drawing out.
@@peterlloyd2306 thanks very much
Simple but very effective!
Thats it... I am making the same.. Nice one John, i am going to use a METAL CLAD 13AMP DOUBLE 2 GANG Socket.. Thanks Update 17th Aug...all made and working for less than a Tenner
Great tip for using the Katsu. Where did you get the foot switch from? Cheers John
It was a 10amp foot switch through Ebay, but I suspect there may be something in the sewing machine world that would suit.
Safety slippers 👍 😊
Thank you. simple explanation.
I'm totally confused 😕. I want to use foot pedal switches for my power tools, ie bandsaw scroll saw and pillar drill. I've managed to connect them all using an extension multi socket cable to my shop vac, I just move the hose. I'd like to do the same with the foot switch because I find it difficult to do precise work when I have to hold the wood in position to switch the machine on or off. It's soo easy with my sewing machine when I'm making clothes. So I hope 🙏 you can help. Kind regards Cindy
The problem with a lot of the devices, like scroll saws, is that they have the NVR switches with green for on, and a red kill switch. This means that the minute you switch off it needs the green go switch to be re-set. This will only work with anything with a straightforward on/off switch sadly.
@@thesmallshed so I can do it for each power tool just not link them to one pedal. Thanks 😊 I can live with that.
Do you make these by request? I’d love to buy one
Sorry for the delay, as I've been away from RUclips for a couple of weeks, as my wife has been in hospital. Unfortunately I don't, but any competent electrician should be able to put one together for you.
Hi can you help me the wires on my foot switch are different colours they are brown black and blue how do I connect them cheers
Not entirely sure, but I'm guessing brown and blue are the live and neutral in, and that black is the switched live power to the socket, the neutral from the socket can also connect to the blue wire. It's worth trying it out with low voltage, using a battery and bulb to confirm.
@@thesmallshed Cheers keep up the good work 👍👍
Hi i bought a switch to do this but i have 3 cables coming out of the switch white/common, red NO and black NC any ideas
The NC is 'normally closed' and NO is normally open, these are both outputs from the same switch, and refer to their state when the pedal is not depressed.
If you want it to operate machinery it is best to feed the white common to your power feed, then connect the machine or live terminal of the socket to normally open red wire, so that when you depress the switch it will switch the machine on. Neutral and earth, if applicable, are then just connected to the machine or socket as normal.