I actually did a very similar set up. I've had it running about 4 yrs now. I used a 55 gal drum and burred it most the way in the ground, only 3 inches of the top remaining above ground. This helps keep the water from freezing in the winter and keeps it cooler in the summer. If the temp goes into the teens 1 or 2 nights I'm ok but last year we has weeks worth of teens and single digit temps and it froze. This year I'm using much larger piping and I ran snow melting cable through the system. I believe it will work perfectly from now on. I need to put this thing on line.
@@redneckrandy8543 trying to figure this out too. I'm thinking of just insulating the 50 gallon drum & throwing a submersible livestock ring heater in, putting a few nipples at the bottom with a tap for the duck's bucket. A buddy of mine said this is good, up to -25, but his was right in the coop, he had a larger coop & I can't put mine inside so I will have to build something. Then I'll just keep the hose indoors & take it out only to fill water. Things always get dicey at a week of -40
You must not live in Minnesota where a 1-ft ditch is not anywhere near getting out of the frost line. In Minnesota you need to at least go six feet deep to get below the frost line.
I live in North Texas. We typically NEVER get cold enough to have a good freeze. But keeping enough water in their buckets is difficult. The summer's are long and very hot. Need a constant flow of water. Great idea. Thank you for sharing.
Saw justin rhodes' design and someone elses with solid pipe with nibblers. YOURS solves my goose winter water issue. Grav-feed filling end, pump back to tank. Thanks man. Subscribed.
Burying your line. Know your frost levels where you live. Like here in VA is 24” below frost, Vermont is like 48” to 56” below. So a 12” to 15 “ trench would be good here in VA. Next get a 1” to 2” foam board insulation . Put your line in and cover it with the insulation. Cut the foam board down the middle ) Put over top of your line. Bury it . The frost should go wide and not freeze your water line. The good thing in this video is the water is always moving and he has protection from the “wind”. Up north obviously you need go little deeper with water line.
I’m thinking of setting up a syphon into a 55 gallon drum to draw from their watering pipe. … but watching this made me realize the flow would have to be controlled by the water level otherwise I’d have to fill back the tube what they drink… if that makes sense. A closed system with an opening where some of the fluid would leave the system would lower the water level in that system and kill the syphon. 🤔
Unless… I used those nipple things they could peck at and made the IN larger than the OUT and could balance the closed system between zero and a couple PSI so the nipples would work. You think they’d freeze enough to where the chickens wouldn’t be able to break the ice on the nipple???
1 inch per 10 feet is the fall required for plumbing drain lines to drain. … use Pex not PVC. If Pex freezes it will not break. PVC WILL. Normal frost line depth is 3 feet. Guaranteed not to freeze in the eUSA. 1 foot will freeze in winter if not in milder southern climates. A 5 gallon bucket or rain barrel can be your supply pond.
I'm inspired. I use a large cooler to feed nipples but the girls s don't seem to like the nipples much I feel like a perch to help keep the water clean will work for me. Thanks for sharing a great concept.
I was thinking about using a 10 gallon bucket or small tank and using the water cups near the bottom then hooking up a solar panel with battery and running a small pump on a timer. Using the auger on my tractor to bore as deep as I can go. Put a coil of line in the hole. Looping back to the tank. To create a geothermal heat source
I want to build this system but with my 55 gallon drum. How can I modify this to use the drum and pump? Do I need to change the fall? I will add on a pump and use a drop tank heater in the winter
This is a pretty awesome idea, thanks for sharing your process. Would love to see some updates on how its been working. Also, did you glue in the 3" piece or is it just pressure fitted into the reducers? Seems like if you don't glue it, you might be able to just rotate the cutout piece to dump any residue that builds inside... dunno if it would leak though
Dumping the debris from the trough concerns me as well. I have to rinse out my waterers every other day as well as adding fresh water. I have an idea of adding a trap to the bottom of the trough with a drain valve. You would have to drain it once a week or so. My chickens leave a lot of dirt behind when they drink.
You should have completed your theory before you posted. Great theory, but wait. There are gaps - significant gaps that everyone won’t consider. 1. What is your frost line depth. If you are above the 44th parallel it’s 42”. It’s doesn’t matter if you bury the lines or not they likely freeze during extreme winters if not at the correct depth. As soon as your water reaches the surface (flowing or static) it WILL freeze rendering all this work seasonal, thus a patience enhancer. 2. Nipples keep debris out of the water. Any exposed container is an instant toilet. Nipples freeze in the winter also, so it’s not great in the north unless your coop is ALWAYS above 32°F. Note: Logic. The title should read “working concept for a location restricted livestock waterer”. I write that because many will watch this video and won’t think past the end of their nose’s (RUclips brain / what to thinkers). Think full spectrum chicken ranchers 🤣
Doesn't get dirty and the first thing I see is a dirty pipe lol I have a rain barrel gravity system that feeds into a 3/4" pvc pipe with nipples that work great, however, we are in the 110 degree heat and the pipe and water is too hot. The chickens won't drink it so I'm looking for another way to cool water instead so I don't have to give them water everyday. I'm thinking about running water underground and circulating it that way because I don't have a pond or big water reservoir that stays cool. How does yours perform in the heat and I mean over 110 degrees?
I like it, but I don't consider it sustainable, a constant running pump isn't a good design for a sustainable system , 12v solar pumps are not reliable.
Never trust a person that says that their OWN thing they put together is "THE BEST". It usually ends up NOT being the best, but it also ends up being LESS than average. 0:42 "never dirty" 1:50 Come on. That is dirty. How can you say NEVER DIRTY when it is clearly littereally dirt and junk in the water. 1:45 "Slow trickle" Um no. that is not a slow trickle, that called openflow. 3:06 "Never frozen" Yeah water flowing doesn't freeze but your pond is NOT flowing water and that WILL freeze. So when the pump gets frozen over, the water inside will freeze. The problem I am seeing is that you don't know the meaning of words. never dirty = always dirty and nasty slow trickle = openflow and a s fast as that pump will put out NEVER frozen = will freeze over, when it gets cold enough to freeze, but when it's not cold enough then it will "NEVER" freeze, just like EVERYTHING else in weather that will not freeze things. 4:02 You know there are threaded reducing PLUGS (not CAP). MADE to be able to thread in adapters like that. 4:08 So very weird that you say It's "just" a chicken thing "don't worry about it". Weird that the parts you know are shotty, you dismiss and say "that part doesn't matter" it takes a few things JUST to make it a dependable and average thing. And to be the best it has to be extra. You failed the first part. How can you even claim it to be the best. I know you want people to click on your video, who cares if it is dishonest, as long as you got that click. u I would give you pointer but nah.
Sure man. Get back to us, after you been using it AT LEAST through one winter. Otherwise you really dont know what you are talking about. Just another chicken waterer design.
I have used this method but at an angle at the outflow end, same size hose in and out leaving hose on a light trickle, it has worked great down to 20 below. But my run is also wrapped in clear plastic. I had to just chip a chunk or 2 of ice w the claw end of a hammer but it never stopped flowing. Adirondacks Ny area.
I actually did a very similar set up. I've had it running about 4 yrs now. I used a 55 gal drum and burred it most the way in the ground, only 3 inches of the top remaining above ground. This helps keep the water from freezing in the winter and keeps it cooler in the summer. If the temp goes into the teens 1 or 2 nights I'm ok but last year we has weeks worth of teens and single digit temps and it froze. This year I'm using much larger piping and I ran snow melting cable through the system. I believe it will work perfectly from now on. I need to put this thing on line.
You should! I'd love to see the set up!
Yes please do! I am exhausted with the absolutely stupid designs of store bought products!!
What's the best pump to use? I'm doing the 55 gal
@@redneckrandy8543 trying to figure this out too. I'm thinking of just insulating the 50 gallon drum & throwing a submersible livestock ring heater in, putting a few nipples at the bottom with a tap for the duck's bucket. A buddy of mine said this is good, up to -25, but his was right in the coop, he had a larger coop & I can't put mine inside so I will have to build something. Then I'll just keep the hose indoors & take it out only to fill water.
Things always get dicey at a week of -40
Roof catch system to refill 55 gallon drum, solar pump to circulate the water.
Could this work with a 55/gal drum of rainwater, for someone who does not have a pond?
UPDATE: LOL, you answered my question, thanks!
I would suggest to add a Bell siphon for drain. So that the chicken poop or any debris settled at bottom will be flushed out forcefully.
Box your water lines when you bury them with Styrofoam and it will help keep your lines from freezing
Like a pool noodle?
You must not live in Minnesota where a 1-ft ditch is not anywhere near getting out of the frost line.
In Minnesota you need to at least go six feet deep to get below the frost line.
Yes this doesn't work for you or for me. Trying to figure out what does
55 gal drum. With a submersible aquatic tank heater.
I wouldve put a lower pipe in so you can let out the dirt & debris. Awesome idea. Makes your day easier
Very nice setup …all I need is a pond
Obviously that will freeze anywhere North
This idea definitely won't work at -40...
You might consider putting the input and output lines in a 1" PVC when you bury it to prevent the pressure from collapsing the tubing.
Yeah I’m going to be using PVC for the output but that’s a great idea to put the polyethylene tubing inside of PVC as well. Thanks for the suggestion!
I live in North Texas. We typically NEVER get cold enough to have a good freeze. But keeping enough water in their buckets is difficult. The summer's are long and very hot. Need a constant flow of water. Great idea. Thank you for sharing.
Saw justin rhodes' design and someone elses with solid pipe with nibblers. YOURS solves my goose winter water issue. Grav-feed filling end, pump back to tank. Thanks man. Subscribed.
Burying your line. Know your frost levels where you live. Like here in VA is 24” below frost, Vermont is like 48” to 56” below. So a 12” to 15 “ trench would be good here in VA. Next get a 1” to 2” foam board insulation . Put your line in and cover it with the insulation. Cut the foam board down the middle ) Put over top of your line. Bury it . The frost should go wide and not freeze your water line. The good thing in this video is the water is always moving and he has protection from the “wind”. Up north obviously you need go little deeper with water line.
I know it's only been 8 months but can you give us an update on how your exit tube is doing our if you've had any clogging issues?
I’m thinking of setting up a syphon into a 55 gallon drum to draw from their watering pipe.
… but watching this made me realize the flow would have to be controlled by the water level otherwise I’d have to fill back the tube what they drink… if that makes sense.
A closed system with an opening where some of the fluid would leave the system would lower the water level in that system and kill the syphon. 🤔
Unless… I used those nipple things they could peck at and made the IN larger than the OUT and could balance the closed system between zero and a couple PSI so the nipples would work.
You think they’d freeze enough to where the chickens wouldn’t be able to break the ice on the nipple???
Ice freezes the nipples
Cool idea! How did it go in the winter?
Makes me wish I had a pond.
How did this work since you have gone through a winter now??
1 inch per 10 feet is the fall required for plumbing drain lines to drain. … use Pex not PVC. If Pex freezes it will not break. PVC WILL. Normal frost line depth is 3 feet. Guaranteed not to freeze in the eUSA. 1 foot will freeze in winter if not in milder southern climates. A 5 gallon bucket or rain barrel can be your supply pond.
Put copper in the water feeder to avoid algae
I'm inspired. I use a large cooler to feed nipples but the girls s don't seem to like the nipples much I feel like a perch to help keep the water clean will work for me. Thanks for sharing a great concept.
Use a rain barrel with solar bubbler.
here in Ohio our water pipes will freeze where it comes out of the ground
I was thinking about using a 10 gallon bucket or small tank and using the water cups near the bottom then hooking up a solar panel with battery and running a small pump on a timer. Using the auger on my tractor to bore as deep as I can go. Put a coil of line in the hole. Looping back to the tank. To create a geothermal heat source
Sounds like a fun project!
It bring up on the stairs will help keep them from getting yuck in there
I want to build this system but with my 55 gallon drum. How can I modify this to use the drum and pump? Do I need to change the fall? I will add on a pump and use a drop tank heater in the winter
Ooo ooo a new viddy! I was waiting for this one!
Still runnin strong!! 💪
This is a pretty awesome idea, thanks for sharing your process. Would love to see some updates on how its been working. Also, did you glue in the 3" piece or is it just pressure fitted into the reducers? Seems like if you don't glue it, you might be able to just rotate the cutout piece to dump any residue that builds inside... dunno if it would leak though
Dumping the debris from the trough concerns me as well. I have to rinse out my waterers every other day as well as adding fresh water. I have an idea of adding a trap to the bottom of the trough with a drain valve. You would have to drain it once a week or so. My chickens leave a lot of dirt behind when they drink.
How do you keep that water clean from all the debris that will develop bacteria and algae from decomposing poop/yuckiness
It’s continually flowing so it stops the collection of all that
Can you do that from barrel to barrel so the water circulates
If You used a barrel, how would the return water stay clean?
Con filtro
Thanks man,Great job!
I assure you that would freeze in MN.
That is Awesome h*** yeah brother thanks for the share such a smart idea !!!!
You should have completed your theory before you posted. Great theory, but wait. There are gaps - significant gaps that everyone won’t consider.
1. What is your frost line depth. If you are above the 44th parallel it’s 42”. It’s doesn’t matter if you bury the lines or not they likely freeze during extreme winters if not at the correct depth. As soon as your water reaches the surface (flowing or static) it WILL freeze rendering all this work seasonal, thus a patience enhancer.
2. Nipples keep debris out of the water. Any exposed container is an instant toilet. Nipples freeze in the winter also, so it’s not great in the north unless your coop is ALWAYS above 32°F.
Note: Logic. The title should read “working concept for a location restricted livestock waterer”. I write that because many will watch this video and won’t think past the end of their nose’s (RUclips brain / what to thinkers). Think full spectrum chicken ranchers 🤣
😮good job
Plz sir make a homemade feedee for chicks and make video 🙏
got everything I needed in the first 2 mins ???
I would say that you have a little bit of siphoning action going on.
Doesn't get dirty and the first thing I see is a dirty pipe lol I have a rain barrel gravity system that feeds into a 3/4" pvc pipe with nipples that work great, however, we are in the 110 degree heat and the pipe and water is too hot. The chickens won't drink it so I'm looking for another way to cool water instead so I don't have to give them water everyday. I'm thinking about running water underground and circulating it that way because I don't have a pond or big water reservoir that stays cool. How does yours perform in the heat and I mean over 110 degrees?
Does it also get cold where you are?
I’m curious about the nipples freezing with flowing water…
Awesome
I don't have a pond.
Obviously you don’t get actual cold weather.
Plywood will likely warp in the sun. My plywood tops warp if I don’t put metal on top.
I like it, but I don't consider it sustainable, a constant running pump isn't a good design for a sustainable system , 12v solar pumps are not reliable.
Am in Nigeria,how much and how do I get it?
the same in Uganda where can I get it
HUMMMMMMM I don't have a pond LOL 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Never trust a person that says that their OWN thing they put together is "THE BEST". It usually ends up NOT being the best, but it also ends up being LESS than average.
0:42 "never dirty" 1:50 Come on. That is dirty. How can you say NEVER DIRTY when it is clearly littereally dirt and junk in the water.
1:45 "Slow trickle" Um no. that is not a slow trickle, that called openflow.
3:06 "Never frozen" Yeah water flowing doesn't freeze but your pond is NOT flowing water and that WILL freeze. So when the pump gets frozen over, the water inside will freeze.
The problem I am seeing is that you don't know the meaning of words.
never dirty = always dirty and nasty
slow trickle = openflow and a s fast as that pump will put out
NEVER frozen = will freeze over, when it gets cold enough to freeze, but when it's not cold enough then it will "NEVER" freeze, just like EVERYTHING else in weather that will not freeze things.
4:02 You know there are threaded reducing PLUGS (not CAP). MADE to be able to thread in adapters like that.
4:08 So very weird that you say It's "just" a chicken thing "don't worry about it". Weird that the parts you know are shotty, you dismiss and say "that part doesn't matter"
it takes a few things JUST to make it a dependable and average thing. And to be the best it has to be extra. You failed the first part. How can you even claim it to be the best. I know you want people to click on your video, who cares if it is dishonest, as long as you got that click. u
I would give you pointer but nah.
Haha, of course it would freeze.
😁
Sure man. Get back to us, after you been using it AT LEAST through one winter. Otherwise you really dont know what you are talking about. Just another chicken waterer design.
I have used this method but at an angle at the outflow end, same size hose in and out leaving hose on a light trickle, it has worked great down to 20 below. But my run is also wrapped in clear plastic. I had to just chip a chunk or 2 of ice w the claw end of a hammer but it never stopped flowing. Adirondacks Ny area.