Congrats on the sponsors! I hope they will allow to expand your production. All four are great companies with quality products. That said, I hope they will not limit your ability to do videos on competitors. I've really enjoyed your objectivity and opinions on material choices no matter their source. While you have favorites you've never been dogmatic about their use and always looked to better your best practices with the latest and greatest. Thanks for the videos!
I think you will see the same quality content and good advice but now I have some others on board to help me afford to do this weekly. I reached out to a select few companies that I like and share my philosophy of quality, durability, integrity, and craftsmanship. Same Matt here. Best! Matt
Was this before the "On the Build show!" bit? Haha. Love it - I've been following your builds for a while now. I'm building my own little vocal booth RIGHT NOW!
I'm sure this product works well, but take note! It requires a very large amount of time and diligence, and it is less cost effective than other more basic options. As they mentioned, you must be very meticulous about every detail of the room, leaving no holes or air gaps. Green glue is an added layer of protection that comes at significant cost. Make sure to build according to your budget. Multiple layers of drywall or particle board, regular pink fiberglass insulation and solid core doors will be more effective and better value. You only need green glue if you are going ALL out with soundproofing.
That isn't true at all. They are already using what appears to be double 5/8" layers and there are a number of studies done on regular drywall versus drywall with GreenGlue versus QuietRock that show the GreenGlue to be significantly superior to the methods you mentioned above.
Last I checked 100% silicone never hardens either and is 1/3 the cost. Plus how much is the green glue actually doing to reduce the sound versus the 2nd 58th sheet of drywall that is really doing the work. I have done the double sheet silicone sandwich., works like a dream.
Green glue adds a lot to the soundproofing: www.soundproofing.com/elements_of_construction3.html Versus just adding more drywall: www.soundproofing.com/elements_of_construction2.html See the graphs.
All i heard was the guys "aah" response, i thought i heard a fart until i realized it was just him saying "aahh". Is that what u guys are talkibg about?
How does green glue with 2 layers of 5/8" drywall compare to QuietRock 510 or 545 in terms of both cost and performance? Also, would you use either of these solutions along with resilient channel and clips, or would it be one or the other?
The greenglue site has comparisons I believe and there are plenty of forums on avsforum and elsewhere talking about options. Also, yes if you want the best noise reduction you have to decouple. It is the most important aspect, far more than two sheets of drywall and dampening compound. But you wouldn't use "resilient channel and clips", you want "hat channel and clips". Resilient channel isn't used with clips and isn't as effective but is better than screwing directly into drywall. www.tmsoundproofing.com/decoupling-explained.html
Hi! I am wondering if it is best to green glue the room that you want kept quiet or to greenglue the outside wall where the noise is coming from. Thanks!
We've been talking about using putty pads around outlets but what will you do about hi hats and recessed lights. There's plenty air getting through these right?
Looking for some urgent advice i share my townhouse wall with a neighbor and the noise coming from her unit is insane. I've pulled the drywall out and the walls were empty with no insulation and no firewall so basically 1 layer of drywall on bare studs no insulation then the same on her side. I'm thinking of doing quiet putty on the outlets + two layers of roxull + resilient channel and two layers of 5/8 with green glue in the middle would this would work good ?
I thought the compound (green tint) was used all over the back of the board because it contains the viscoelastic properties that dampens vibration between the two hard surfaces and the sealant (white) was used to seal any holes or cracks.
Matt i have a question: my basement remodel for my office includes a window and also has a cement lower half before getting to the studs above the shelf area the cement creates - are the principles here the same - any difference in installing around a window and or a half cement wall?
what about recessing lights in ceiling? most important and largest issue? i created recessed light boxes and installed before hanging first layer of sheet rock
Two options. 1. Build a box for each one above the ceiling with similar level sound dampening properties. i.e. two layers of 5/8 with green glue or 2. Complete your ceiling (2 layers 5/*" with green glue) and then construct a low profile bulk head with 1/2" drywall (cavity is ~1.75" for pots) ...If method #2 is an option it's much easier and you don't have to create gaping holes in our ceiling. If you do neither, it will negate much of the sound dampening.
Stacy Young that’s exactly what I did. Very pain staking job. Made plywood boxes with sheet rock surrounding it and attached to recessed clips. Then when putting first layer of sheetrock put noise proofing sealant on the edges to seal 100%. Wanted to see if someone has a quick better idea. Thanks for the reply. Finally finished sealing with green glue and everything. Will see how it will work.
We have a house we moved to that was built in 1955 (semi-detached) we get a lot of excessive noise (loud talking, laughing, music, etc) coming from the shared common wall (8 ft x 30 ft) basically it was built with ciment cinder block, with ciment / plaster on either side of this. so basically we have a "Triple Leaf Effect"... going on here. We are trying to figure out best way to sound proof. (without losing 6 inches of depth for a new wall adding to this)... We were hoping to: Put Green Glue onto CORK panels directly onto the walls we have at present. (hoping that the Green Glue will add to the Cork panels sound insulation) Then plan on painting the cork panels.. (This is a living / dining room wall) Could this seem like a good plan that could work?
I just had my backroom sheet rocked and painted and now someone new moved in with my neighbors and they are blasting their TV all night!! Very rude! I wish I had known about this last year when we had the room done! I am tempted to go over the new sheet rock with this to make it livable with them but I really wish I could just move! I swear I hate people.... (
Tear the wall down Insulate with Roxul Apply a half inch sound board Apply half in resilient bars Apply half inch Quietrock drywall or Certainteed SoundFX drywall Enjoy your peaceful room and never look back. Money well spent.
It is not actually "glue" and will not every fully dry, it works by remaining gummy, and will not hold up anything. You use screws like you normally would with drywall.
If I buy the 5 gallon pails, can this be troweled? not necessarily completely spread over the entire sheet, maybe the same way he did with the caulk gun some little chunks of the material in the same pattern he did with the caulk gun.
+macrapidito After going through 5 or so 5-gal tubs...I would strongly advise to NOT trowel out the product. It should still work the same but I'd recommend getting the bulk load gun as it will speed up the install and make life much easier.
+macrapidito I went back and checked my files, went through 6 five gallon tubs and 30 tubes of sealant. I used their calculation estimate of 375 sq ft per 5gallon tub as a ballpark. I'll check to see how many sheets. Some rooms were double 5/8ths on all the walls and ceiling, other rooms just the shared walls
For pricing purposes: 1gal = 128oz , 1 speed load gun has 34oz , 2 guns per 1 sheet rock = 68oz per 32 sq ft , 5 gallon/ 640oz bucket of green glue = 260$, 640oz/34oz=18.8 guns, so one gun cost around 13.8$(260$/18.8 loads) then that equals 27.7$ (two guns-2x13.8) per 32 sq ft which is 0.86$ per 1 sq ft. Woow did I made this complicated?
In going forward with a green glue project how are door jambs handled with the extra layer of drywall? I've always purchased doors with jambs for 2x4 or 2x6 wall construction assuming one layer drywall on each side of wall.
I believe that you'd have to get extra pieces of wood to fill the space; in the case of a new door, you have to order a jamb after calculating the full width of the new wall.
Greg Vande Corput rip extension jambs to meet the new finished wall depth. glue and nail to existing jamb. install with a reveal or not, your choice. seal gap to rough opening all four sides.
When you apply the Green Glue, about how much air space or gap do you want between the two drywall sheets to absorb sound? I notice how many tubes should be used, but nothing I see says how tall to make the peaks of Green Glue. Thanks!
@@Hamza-yu1ur I ended up not using green glue. I used a high R rated insulation board in the middle, then on each side of that I put three strips of 1/2”x1” along the length of the board and then just a thin 1/8” veneer panel on the outside. I read that the dead airspace and the insulation board work just as good. User beware- it was probably a lot more work.
Has anyone ever tested sandwiching floor underlayment thats used under laminate flooring. It seems to do a good job quieting that cheap flooring so it makes sense it would work well on wall assemblies and be a lot cheaper than these specialty glues.
Ok, I have this recurrent question: I already have a wall, which is made of bricks, plastered (to be precise, "textured", "artex" or "stuccoed") and painted. Can I attach a single green-glued sheet directly to it or do I still need to do the usual two-sheets process? Also, there are a number of "acoustic" drywalls in the market (like Placo acoustic). Should I expect some improvement by using one of those (they are expensive) or should I stick to standard drywall?
use 2 sheets of drywall with GG between. Don't use the sound rock. Best think you could do would be to also 'decouple' that wall. So use either RISC clips and hat channel or a resilient channel. DON'T use both. RISC Clips - PAC International I got them on amazon and they were cheaper than from PAC international. Go figure. You have to attach some type of firing strip anyway to the brick to attach drywall, so just go the little extra and get the sound clips. You will get amazing results. Remember to try and decouple everywhere, so dont let the new wall touch existing framing or anything (obviously the clips touch brick). DO NOT short the system by driving a screw into anything other than the hat channel!! Leave small gap at ceiling and other wall intersections, and then insert backer rod and caulk to seal gap, this way you will get no transfer of sound. Sound propagates by moving molecules - air, water, solids, doesn't matter - it just changes the propagation but it still propagates through any medium.
2 sheets might work, depending on the situation. Drywall w/ GG and Quietrock/Soundbreak's better, though. Also decoupling is the ultimate but is neither always necessary or practical..could be a lot of extra work and expense and using sheets and GG is plenty in most applications, from my experience. Case by case.
The instructions from Green Glue's website suggests the "Compound" is not best used against a soft material - I assume they include rubber in that category (I would). However, the "Sealant" could be applied to all the seams (edges; corners; screws; etc.) and, I think, would make a noticeable difference than if you left the seams open. The Acousticel M20AD does a great job of absorbing low frequencies but the air between it and the frame/sheathing would still vibrate through the seams. I'm using the Acousticel rubber to decouple the floor of my isolation booth from the floor of my room. Check this video out: ruclips.net/video/aFG-W9nvSrQ/видео.html Watching this guy's method for renovating his garage into a studio is what got me hooked on the idea of doing it myself. He includes a second brick wall with an air gap between the original garage walls. It's really thorough - I'm not a professional but what he's doing appears to be well-thought-out. Have fun - and be safe!!
I've recently been building a room in half of my garage and will plead with you, BEG you to either buy the tubes of Green Glue, or if you get the bucket, pick up a "Sausage type caulking gun" because if you go the route we went with "let's use a drywall knife to apply this", it's gonna be wasteful. TL;DR: Get a caulking-style applicator if you have a bucket of Green Glue because you will not refer to the substance as "despair glitter". It looks like the Incredible Hulk got jiggy with a porn mag in my room. Oy vey.
The person who owned my place before me, it turns out, used this shit on the wood (fake wood, I think) floors. And I'm on the first floor. But what's worse is that every time I step on certain boards, this stuff just oozes up through. Over and over and over. It just got on my cat's foot, and now I'm ready to go on a crusade against the previous homeowner. LOL
Do not listen to this crap,green glue does next to nothing .greenglue pays for these videos,if you want good results use mlv between sheets ,I have used greenglue in my house and mlv in different rooms .mlv works very well greenglue dose not ,I hope this will help someone.
Flexible insulated (internally) duct with twists and turns to allow the insulation to absorb the sound and low velocity (air falling out pretty much or close) gets you a long ways. Beyond that, make sure the units are decoupled from the space (not on the roof or a wall where vibration transfer will occur).
Yup, ducting is an important issue to address it is one path for sound, not the only one. If the rooms aren't joined directly sound is going to be reduced because you don't have a straight path, if you use sections of flex duct (especially if it is not straight connection) it will reduce it. Lots of ways it can be mitigated or already might not be a notable issue for that space. Two layers of drywall, w/GG, directly connected to the studs and insulation isn't making a silent room either, but it is a huge difference between a single layer no drywall and no outlet sealing. This is about reduction, not elimination. If it was a home theater or really about massive reduction the biggest step he didn't do here is decoupling which you can do with double wall or clips and hat channel. Then things like ducting, doors, windows etc become very important.
here i am with my 10' pole, proper isolation for recording studios or home theaters either run an independent unit mini split or if they have to run it on the same HVAC should be building in bafflle boxes which can be done up between the joists ive done many builds with it, proper baffle boxes are solid.
question. idk if anyone would see this and have the knowledge to answer this, but if, say, for an apartment, i glued two cardboard sheets together with green glue, and then did that a bunch of times and then covered a wall separating this apartment from another apartment with all of those cardboard sheets, how much of the sound bleedthrough would it eliminate? and would accoustic panels on the inside of the new cardboard wall make any sort of significant difference?
Thanks Matt, couple of questions: Do you also use a QuietRock product to help sound transfer? And since you are using two layers are they still 1/2" typically?
It makes mechanical sense up until you put in mechanical fasteners thru the second sheet into the same structure that you are trying to isolate from, negating any real benefit. Any sound vibrations will transfer with all the code required fasteners, it is just simple physics and cannot be denied. It would be more plausible that you are making the wall more dense/less flexible by doubling the sheet rock, thus reducing noise penetration by being thicker, and not by isolation. Only a unbiased test comparison of equal structures one with green glue, one with out, would show any improvement vs. added cost analysis. I like your stuff Matt, but this one does not pass the smell test. regards
+pkav8tor Question. If you just had the two layers of drywall and no green glue, wouldn't the sound get dampend some, but the whole sheet can knock against the other sheet. With the green glue, it would only be at the fasteners that the sound could transmit. If it was only at the fasteners and not the entire sheet, that should dramatically reduce the energy transmitted to the next sheet and beyond, no?
I see your point. But, I stand by this install and they have test data to show the effectiveness. I would however love to do some "real world" testing of some assemblies. Let me think about how I could do that! See some of my other sound proofing videos where I did some testing of finished jobs. Best, Matt
Good question. If you look at the mechanical dynamics of a screw buried into the outer sheet every six inches at every 16 inch vertical (code) the reality is that the inner and outer sheet are mostly connected with or without glue. To say the glue provides damping is a real stretch when code requires that many attachment points, with the consideration that at every one of the screws any glue between the sheets would be squished out to a very thin thickness providing no isolation. My point of observation is only one: Is the cost of the glue worth the very minimal additional sound proofing over the same wall without glue, when you consider how sound migrates thru a solid surface. Thanks for your question, regards.
Matt Risinger I have seen your other sound proofing and mostly like them. The best one used separate studs which by design is very good isolation and should work well. This one leaves dought without real world comparison as you stated. Thank for your time , regards
+pkav8tor I used about five 5-gallon tubs of this with double 5/8ths drywall and I think it is borderline magical. You have to seal every crack/corner/outlet etc. for it to work. The Green Glue sealant does "dry" and hardens somewhat whereas the Green Glue dampening compound remains flexible/gel-like. The Green Glue sealant worked great for larger gaps + is less $ than silicone (I used silicone around the recessed light cans). Quiet Rock would probably work similarly but it is much more expensive (especially in my case since mine was all DIY = free labor). Also, with Quiet Rock, you have waste/leftover typical with any drywall job...at $45/sheet for their intro level, the trash pieces would add up quickly. I agree split studs and/or hanging the double drywall assembly on metal hat channel + clips is better...but I didn't have the space or the budget for the extras. Even so, just the double 5/8ths with Green Glue between has worked wonders.
I've seen them for anywhere between $13-20/tube, and the different retail sites that are selling them have them listed as being 28, 29, 31, or 32 ounces. I don't know which is correct. (You can get a bucket for $290, and based on coverage, it is equivalent to $13/tube.) So figure $35/sheet of drywall; average. Assume that you're average room has 16 pieces of drywall on the walls, and another 8 on the ceiling, for a total of 24 pieces of drywall. 24*$35= $850 per room, for a 85 dB of. 85 dB of sound reduction is an insane amount of reduction for such a small amount of randomly distributed, material that is quick/easy to apply. You could be running a chainsaw tits out in one room, with a baby sleeping in the adjacent room, and not wake her up. Very impressive for
3 if you really want to do it the "best way" though the best way requires decoupling the drywall from the studs first and doing a bunch of other stuff. And if you are considering it, watch craigslist and find other deals, don't pay retail.
Green glue is nonsense. The sound is passing through the two pieces of drywall not the green glue. Any adhesive caulking does the same thing for 3 times less money. Total Nonsense!!
Congrats on the sponsors! I hope they will allow to expand your production. All four are great companies with quality products. That said, I hope they will not limit your ability to do videos on competitors. I've really enjoyed your objectivity and opinions on material choices no matter their source. While you have favorites you've never been dogmatic about their use and always looked to better your best practices with the latest and greatest. Thanks for the videos!
I think you will see the same quality content and good advice but now I have some others on board to help me afford to do this weekly. I reached out to a select few companies that I like and share my philosophy of quality, durability, integrity, and craftsmanship. Same Matt here. Best! Matt
@Laura Brown thks for that, i have a window in my sound room. great idea thku
Was this before the "On the Build show!" bit?
Haha. Love it - I've been following your builds for a while now. I'm building my own little vocal booth RIGHT NOW!
I'm sure this product works well, but take note! It requires a very large amount of time and diligence, and it is less cost effective than other more basic options.
As they mentioned, you must be very meticulous about every detail of the room, leaving no holes or air gaps. Green glue is an added layer of protection that comes at significant cost. Make sure to build according to your budget. Multiple layers of drywall or particle board, regular pink fiberglass insulation and solid core doors will be more effective and better value. You only need green glue if you are going ALL out with soundproofing.
That isn't true at all. They are already using what appears to be double 5/8" layers and there are a number of studies done on regular drywall versus drywall with GreenGlue versus QuietRock that show the GreenGlue to be significantly superior to the methods you mentioned above.
Absolutely excellent question and answer session!! Very valuable and informative.
Where do you buy the putty pad?
Thanks ! Good job. I’m trying to get this done in my new studio
Matt another solid video. Thanks so much.
Matt Risinger is badass.
Last I checked 100% silicone never hardens either and is 1/3 the cost. Plus how much is the green glue actually doing to reduce the sound versus the 2nd 58th sheet of drywall that is really doing the work. I have done the double sheet silicone sandwich., works like a dream.
I have the same question, this stuff is mad expensive and whats the difference between silicone and green glue?
Green glue adds a lot to the soundproofing: www.soundproofing.com/elements_of_construction3.html
Versus just adding more drywall: www.soundproofing.com/elements_of_construction2.html
See the graphs.
I would ask the same question as pkav8tor putting screws in also would surely seriously reduce the soundproofing?
Awesome vid. Building a house now and was interested in this. Keep up the good work. :-)
So glad my videos are helpful! Hope your BUILD goes well!
+Matt Risinger :-)
Was that a fart at 2:08?
LMAO!!! I heard that too!!
LOL - good catch! And right when he's talking about turning vibration into heat - Hahahahahaha Someone is thinking "Turn THAT into heat"
Yeah that was a fart lol. Nice catch!
All i heard was the guys "aah" response, i thought i heard a fart until i realized it was just him saying "aahh". Is that what u guys are talkibg about?
BUT the true question is did he say Aah because of the fart ? :)
How does green glue with 2 layers of 5/8" drywall compare to QuietRock 510 or 545 in terms of both cost and performance? Also, would you use either of these solutions along with resilient channel and clips, or would it be one or the other?
The greenglue site has comparisons I believe and there are plenty of forums on avsforum and elsewhere talking about options. Also, yes if you want the best noise reduction you have to decouple. It is the most important aspect, far more than two sheets of drywall and dampening compound. But you wouldn't use "resilient channel and clips", you want "hat channel and clips". Resilient channel isn't used with clips and isn't as effective but is better than screwing directly into drywall.
www.tmsoundproofing.com/decoupling-explained.html
Would that work on an existing wall that’s been painted? Just add green glue and another sheet of drywall with some screws?
Can you put it on the studs and the screw the first Sheetrock board. Will that help also?
Do you have to worry structurally about two layers of drywall on a basement ceiling ?
Before you do drywall You should do framing corectly.Where is double stud at the door opening?
Hi!
I am wondering if it is best to green glue the room that you want kept quiet or to greenglue the outside wall where the noise is coming from.
Thanks!
Sachi & Chiyo Hartley
The closer to the source of the noise.......the better.
We've been talking about using putty pads around outlets but what will you do about hi hats and recessed lights. There's plenty air getting through these right?
Looking for some urgent advice i share my townhouse wall with a neighbor and the noise coming from her unit is insane. I've pulled the drywall out and the walls were empty with no insulation and no firewall so basically 1 layer of drywall on bare studs no insulation then the same on her side. I'm thinking of doing quiet putty on the outlets + two layers of roxull + resilient channel and two layers of 5/8 with green glue in the middle would this would work good ?
Day One Management What did you end up doing?
I thought the compound (green tint) was used all over the back of the board because it contains the viscoelastic properties that dampens vibration between the two hard surfaces and the sealant (white) was used to seal any holes or cracks.
You are correct. That's exactly it.
Matt i have a question: my basement remodel for my office includes a window and also has a cement lower half before getting to the studs above the shelf area the cement creates - are the principles here the same - any difference in installing around a window and or a half cement wall?
what about recessing lights in ceiling? most important and largest issue? i created recessed light boxes and installed before hanging first layer of sheet rock
Two options. 1. Build a box for each one above the ceiling with similar level sound dampening properties. i.e. two layers of 5/8 with green glue or 2. Complete your ceiling (2 layers 5/*" with green glue) and then construct a low profile bulk head with 1/2" drywall (cavity is ~1.75" for pots) ...If method #2 is an option it's much easier and you don't have to create gaping holes in our ceiling. If you do neither, it will negate much of the sound dampening.
Stacy Young that’s exactly what I did. Very pain staking job. Made plywood boxes with sheet rock surrounding it and attached to recessed clips. Then when putting first layer of sheetrock put noise proofing sealant on the edges to seal 100%. Wanted to see if someone has a quick better idea. Thanks for the reply. Finally finished sealing with green glue and everything. Will see how it will work.
Can it be applied to existing finished wall and and then add a new layer of drywall?
We have a house we moved to that was built in 1955 (semi-detached) we get a lot of excessive noise (loud talking, laughing, music, etc) coming from the shared common wall (8 ft x 30 ft) basically it was built with ciment cinder block, with ciment / plaster on either side of this. so basically we have a "Triple Leaf Effect"... going on here. We are trying to figure out best way to sound proof. (without losing 6 inches of depth for a new wall adding to this)... We were hoping to: Put Green Glue onto CORK panels directly onto the walls we have at present. (hoping that the Green Glue will add to the Cork panels sound insulation) Then plan on painting the cork panels.. (This is a living / dining room wall) Could this seem like a good plan that could work?
I just had my backroom sheet rocked and painted and now someone new moved in with my neighbors and they are blasting their TV all night!! Very rude! I wish I had known about this last year when we had the room done! I am tempted to go over the new sheet rock with this to make it livable with them but I really wish I could just move! I swear I hate people.... (
Whenever I hear a misanthropic statement, I assume the feeling may be mutual.
Tear the wall down
Insulate with Roxul
Apply a half inch sound board
Apply half in resilient bars
Apply half inch Quietrock drywall or Certainteed SoundFX drywall
Enjoy your peaceful room and never look back. Money well spent.
People are the worst
How long does that glue take to dry? How long do you have to hold up a drywall panel to the ceiling?
It is not actually "glue" and will not every fully dry, it works by remaining gummy, and will not hold up anything. You use screws like you normally would with drywall.
If I buy the 5 gallon pails, can this be troweled? not necessarily completely spread over the entire sheet, maybe the same way he did with the caulk gun some little chunks of the material in the same pattern he did with the caulk gun.
Probably but it's not a recommended install. These bulk load guns are pretty reasonable in cost.
+macrapidito After going through 5 or so 5-gal tubs...I would strongly advise to NOT trowel out the product. It should still work the same but I'd recommend getting the bulk load gun as it will speed up the install and make life much easier.
keelerdr
so you spend 5 buckets ? how big the project was? how many sheets did you install?
+macrapidito I went back and checked my files, went through 6 five gallon tubs and 30 tubes of sealant. I used their calculation estimate of 375 sq ft per 5gallon tub as a ballpark. I'll check to see how many sheets. Some rooms were double 5/8ths on all the walls and ceiling, other rooms just the shared walls
Can the regular 28 pz tubes be used in a regular caulk gun?
Can you use that green glue as insulation?
For pricing purposes: 1gal = 128oz , 1 speed load gun has 34oz , 2 guns per 1 sheet rock = 68oz per 32 sq ft , 5 gallon/ 640oz bucket of green glue = 260$, 640oz/34oz=18.8 guns, so one gun cost around 13.8$(260$/18.8 loads) then that equals 27.7$ (two guns-2x13.8) per 32 sq ft which is 0.86$ per 1 sq ft. Woow did I made this complicated?
In going forward with a green glue project how are door jambs handled with the extra layer of drywall? I've always purchased doors with jambs for 2x4 or 2x6 wall construction assuming one layer drywall on each side of wall.
I believe that you'd have to get extra pieces of wood to fill the space; in the case of a new door, you have to order a jamb after calculating the full width of the new wall.
Greg Vande Corput rip extension jambs to meet the new finished wall depth. glue and nail to existing jamb. install with a reveal or not, your choice. seal gap to rough opening all four sides.
When you apply the Green Glue, about how much air space or gap do you want between the two drywall sheets to absorb sound? I notice how many tubes should be used, but nothing I see says how tall to make the peaks of Green Glue. Thanks!
I’m wondering the same thing. Any advice on this?
@@Hamza-yu1ur I ended up not using green glue. I used a high R rated insulation board in the middle, then on each side of that I put three strips of 1/2”x1” along the length of the board and then just a thin 1/8” veneer panel on the outside. I read that the dead airspace and the insulation board work just as good. User beware- it was probably a lot more work.
Has anyone ever tested sandwiching floor underlayment thats used under laminate flooring. It seems to do a good job quieting that cheap flooring so it makes sense it would work well on wall assemblies and be a lot cheaper than these specialty glues.
Ok, I have this recurrent question: I already have a wall, which is made of bricks, plastered (to be precise, "textured", "artex" or "stuccoed") and painted. Can I attach a single green-glued sheet directly to it or do I still need to do the usual two-sheets process?
Also, there are a number of "acoustic" drywalls in the market (like Placo acoustic). Should I expect some improvement by using one of those (they are expensive) or should I stick to standard drywall?
I believe that another sheet of drywall is needed, to absorb the GG; call the company to confirm.
use 2 sheets of drywall with GG between. Don't use the sound rock. Best think you could do would be to also 'decouple' that wall. So use either RISC clips and hat channel or a resilient channel. DON'T use both.
RISC Clips - PAC International
I got them on amazon and they were cheaper than from PAC international. Go figure.
You have to attach some type of firing strip anyway to the brick to attach drywall, so just go the little extra and get the sound clips.
You will get amazing results.
Remember to try and decouple everywhere, so dont let the new wall touch existing framing or anything (obviously the clips touch brick). DO NOT short the system by driving a screw into anything other than the hat channel!!
Leave small gap at ceiling and other wall intersections, and then insert backer rod and caulk to seal gap, this way you will get no transfer of sound.
Sound propagates by moving molecules - air, water, solids, doesn't matter - it just changes the propagation but it still propagates through any medium.
2 sheets might work, depending on the situation. Drywall w/ GG and Quietrock/Soundbreak's better, though. Also decoupling is the ultimate but is neither always necessary or practical..could be a lot of extra work and expense and using sheets and GG is plenty in most applications, from my experience. Case by case.
What did you do? I think I have to do the same thing. How'd it work for you?
Would this combine well with acousticel M20AD on a solid brick wall?
The instructions from Green Glue's website suggests the "Compound" is not best used against a soft material - I assume they include rubber in that category (I would). However, the "Sealant" could be applied to all the seams (edges; corners; screws; etc.) and, I think, would make a noticeable difference than if you left the seams open. The Acousticel M20AD does a great job of absorbing low frequencies but the air between it and the frame/sheathing would still vibrate through the seams. I'm using the Acousticel rubber to decouple the floor of my isolation booth from the floor of my room.
Check this video out: ruclips.net/video/aFG-W9nvSrQ/видео.html
Watching this guy's method for renovating his garage into a studio is what got me hooked on the idea of doing it myself. He includes a second brick wall with an air gap between the original garage walls. It's really thorough - I'm not a professional but what he's doing appears to be well-thought-out.
Have fun - and be safe!!
"That's correct"
I've recently been building a room in half of my garage and will plead with you, BEG you to either buy the tubes of Green Glue, or if you get the bucket, pick up a "Sausage type caulking gun" because if you go the route we went with "let's use a drywall knife to apply this", it's gonna be wasteful.
TL;DR: Get a caulking-style applicator if you have a bucket of Green Glue because you will not refer to the substance as "despair glitter".
It looks like the Incredible Hulk got jiggy with a porn mag in my room. Oy vey.
Mmm
This video brought to you by Green Glue
The person who owned my place before me, it turns out, used this shit on the wood (fake wood, I think) floors. And I'm on the first floor. But what's worse is that every time I step on certain boards, this stuff just oozes up through. Over and over and over. It just got on my cat's foot, and now I'm ready to go on a crusade against the previous homeowner. LOL
Do not listen to this crap,green glue does next to nothing .greenglue pays for these videos,if you want good results use mlv between sheets ,I have used greenglue in my house and mlv in different rooms .mlv works very well greenglue dose not ,I hope this will help someone.
what about air vents? for heating/cooling/filter
Flexible insulated (internally) duct with twists and turns to allow the insulation to absorb the sound and low velocity (air falling out pretty much or close) gets you a long ways. Beyond that, make sure the units are decoupled from the space (not on the roof or a wall where vibration transfer will occur).
If I use it between plasterboards on my vocal booth, isn't it toxic? I don't need 100% soundproof, so I prefer not too toxic one.
Did he say Heat? Shoot, my music will set the building on FIRE!!!
So, make the room air tight, but what about HVAC? Does running supply and return vents in the room negate all the sound proofing?
Brad Phillips Nobody's touching that question with a 10' pole. Sound will travel right thru ductwork.
Yup, ducting is an important issue to address it is one path for sound, not the only one. If the rooms aren't joined directly sound is going to be reduced because you don't have a straight path, if you use sections of flex duct (especially if it is not straight connection) it will reduce it. Lots of ways it can be mitigated or already might not be a notable issue for that space.
Two layers of drywall, w/GG, directly connected to the studs and insulation isn't making a silent room either, but it is a huge difference between a single layer no drywall and no outlet sealing. This is about reduction, not elimination. If it was a home theater or really about massive reduction the biggest step he didn't do here is decoupling which you can do with double wall or clips and hat channel. Then things like ducting, doors, windows etc become very important.
here i am with my 10' pole, proper isolation for recording studios or home theaters either run an independent unit mini split or if they have to run it on the same HVAC should be building in bafflle boxes which can be done up between the joists
ive done many builds with it, proper baffle boxes are solid.
Why noit simply apply it to the studs?
Double all dry wall can be costly
look how many screws put into those drywall. Plasterer must have went nut!
Most of that video is good info, the rest is hot air
ISWYDT
Damping, not dampening.
So can I use regular thermal insulation behind the rock wall or do need special insulation??
Any insulation will work, but most seem to prefer mineral wool because it is denser and fairly easy to install.
question. idk if anyone would see this and have the knowledge to answer this, but if, say, for an apartment, i glued two cardboard sheets together with green glue, and then did that a bunch of times and then covered a wall separating this apartment from another apartment with all of those cardboard sheets, how much of the sound bleedthrough would it eliminate? and would accoustic panels on the inside of the new cardboard wall make any sort of significant difference?
A few experts don't rate this stuff at all
Filmed in Texas but no Texas accents! "Whose yore daddy??!!" "Yeer not frum around heer air yeh??!!"
Joe A from earth boso
Thanks Matt, couple of questions: Do you also use a QuietRock product to help sound transfer? And since you are using two layers are they still 1/2" typically?
I like QR but it's a more expensive product overall. You can use two layers of 1/2" but I prefer two of 5/8" for the extra mass.
Do you know where to purchase quiet rock?
Quiet Rock or a similar competitor Sound Break can be found by calling the company. They'll provide numbers of companies in your area.
They foreshadowed the doorway the entire video and never addressed it lol! How do you prevent noise transfer through a door?
Exactly what is acoustic sealant? Isn't it just water soluble silicone?
It makes mechanical sense up until you put in mechanical fasteners thru the second sheet into the same structure that you are trying to isolate from, negating any real benefit. Any sound vibrations will transfer with all the code required fasteners, it is just simple physics and cannot be denied. It would be more plausible that you are making the wall more dense/less flexible by doubling the sheet rock, thus reducing noise penetration by being thicker, and not by isolation. Only a unbiased test comparison of equal structures one with green glue, one with out, would show any improvement vs. added cost analysis. I like your stuff Matt, but this one does not pass the smell test. regards
+pkav8tor Question. If you just had the two layers of drywall and no green glue, wouldn't the sound get dampend some, but the whole sheet can knock against the other sheet. With the green glue, it would only be at the fasteners that the sound could transmit. If it was only at the fasteners and not the entire sheet, that should dramatically reduce the energy transmitted to the next sheet and beyond, no?
I see your point. But, I stand by this install and they have test data to show the effectiveness. I would however love to do some "real world" testing of some assemblies. Let me think about how I could do that! See some of my other sound proofing videos where I did some testing of finished jobs. Best, Matt
Good question. If you look at the mechanical dynamics of a screw buried into the outer sheet every six inches at every 16 inch vertical (code) the reality is that the inner and outer sheet are mostly connected with or without glue. To say the glue provides damping is a real stretch when code requires that many attachment points, with the consideration that at every one of the screws any glue between the sheets would be squished out to a very thin thickness providing no isolation. My point of observation is only one: Is the cost of the glue worth the very minimal additional sound proofing over the same wall without glue, when you consider how sound migrates thru a solid surface. Thanks for your question, regards.
Matt Risinger I have seen your other sound proofing and mostly like them. The best one used separate studs which by design is very good isolation and should work well. This one leaves dought without real world comparison as you stated. Thank for your time , regards
+pkav8tor I used about five 5-gallon tubs of this with double 5/8ths drywall and I think it is borderline magical. You have to seal every crack/corner/outlet etc. for it to work. The Green Glue sealant does "dry" and hardens somewhat whereas the Green Glue dampening compound remains flexible/gel-like. The Green Glue sealant worked great for larger gaps + is less $ than silicone (I used silicone around the recessed light cans). Quiet Rock would probably work similarly but it is much more expensive (especially in my case since mine was all DIY = free labor). Also, with Quiet Rock, you have waste/leftover typical with any drywall job...at $45/sheet for their intro level, the trash pieces would add up quickly. I agree split studs and/or hanging the double drywall assembly on metal hat channel + clips is better...but I didn't have the space or the budget for the extras. Even so, just the double 5/8ths with Green Glue between has worked wonders.
Do I need the gun? I just bought the tube but I can’t get the glue out.
is not the green glue the one that reduces noise is the double panel....
Matt Risinger, you farted ?
did he really say to use 2 tubes on a 4x8 sheet? this stuff is hella expensive - you are telling me this is the best way to do this?
I've seen them for anywhere between $13-20/tube, and the different retail sites that are selling them have them listed as being 28, 29, 31, or 32 ounces. I don't know which is correct. (You can get a bucket for $290, and based on coverage, it is equivalent to $13/tube.) So figure $35/sheet of drywall; average. Assume that you're average room has 16 pieces of drywall on the walls, and another 8 on the ceiling, for a total of 24 pieces of drywall. 24*$35= $850 per room, for a 85 dB of. 85 dB of sound reduction is an insane amount of reduction for such a small amount of randomly distributed, material that is quick/easy to apply. You could be running a chainsaw tits out in one room, with a baby sleeping in the adjacent room, and not wake her up. Very impressive for
2 tubes, 28 oz each. total about $27 isn't expensive.
3 if you really want to do it the "best way" though the best way requires decoupling the drywall from the studs first and doing a bunch of other stuff. And if you are considering it, watch craigslist and find other deals, don't pay retail.
Why does everyone who professes to be a sound dampening expert also sound like they have a hearing impairment? Maybe less sound volume?
you mean damping....right?
@@994pt4 dampening
Far out!
they didn't think about not putting outlets there that penetrates the wall?;)
I’ve never heard so much BS in my life.
You are right
Well this is a useless comment unless you care to explain WHY it is BS?
@@BrianMDPhD use common sense and it should be apparent.
green glue does no better than regular glue!!!! total bullshit
Green glue is nonsense. The sound is passing through the two pieces of drywall not the green glue. Any adhesive caulking does the same thing for 3 times less money. Total Nonsense!!
How legit is this
Green glue is absolute shit
A GC (I'm assuming he's a GC, but then again....) that doesn't know that it is siliCONE not siliCON!
+Andrew Delashaw Who cares?
@@bmay8818 only if you are anal