3D Printed Liquid Piston Engine - Part 1
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- Опубликовано: 1 июн 2024
- Check out part 2 here - • I 3D Printed a LiquidP...
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Liquid Piston (not a Wankel) prototyping, and building a custom dynamometer. Oh boy! Today's video is all about the first few months of prototyping my 3D printed, Liquid Piston Rotary engine. This is an alternate rotary engine design to the Wankel and features an impressive power to size ratio, plus a design that is easier to seal. While I made some great progress, the engine isn't self-sufficient just yet, but it is close!
Additionally, I built a dynamometer so I can measure the performance of all 4 of my air engines (Tom Stanton's OG design, my original Wankel, Integza's Wankel, and the new Liquid Piston). Each of these engines has it's own strengths and weaknesses, so it will be super interesting to quantify the performance of each.
The project is open sourced, all files can be found here
github.com/DDeGonge/AirWankel...
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Intro - 0:00 - 0:55
Sponsored - 0:55 - 1:58
Prototypes and Testing - 1:58 - 11:16
#3dprintedlife #liquidpiston #3dprinting
This video is sponsored by Wondrium. 
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Thanks for watching. If you haven't yet, please consider subscribing. I would really love to get one of those fancy silver Play Buttons :)
What would you do with it when you got it
When you get done with this engine, I may have a new one I could chuck your way. Perhaps you can get working what I have been unable to. Its kinda like a Wankel, only much weirder. My printer just doesn't have the tolerance capability's like yours does and I have been unsuccessful in tuning it to get the tolerances in check (for one reason or another). But I have done all the math and pretty much modeled everything already... although I am sure things could be tweaked to improve the design substantially.
Great ldea
7:01 What if you make a thin outwards groove in the plastic, that is designed to be too large, but be worn down to the right tolerances by cranking the engine by hand?
Keep the videos up to the quality this one is, and you will.
FYI: That actually *is* a Felix Wankel design (whether or not the Liquid Piston folk admit it). Mr. Wankel was not a one-trick-pony. He had hundreds of designs with more variations than I can describe (you really have to see them). The two that are the most well known include the one that was licensed by numerous companies (not just Mazda) in which a rotor spun *and* orbited within a fixed epitrochoid chamber. The other is the one he poses with in his most famous photo (look closely). In that one, the rotor spins in place (no orbiting), and the epitrochoid chamber also spins in place, but they have different centers of rotation. Felix preferred this one as it was smoother and could rev to a much higher RPM, but it was much more difficult to manufacture. Variations on these included more lobes, sweeping blades, etc. Another entire series of his designs was based on a spinning epitrochoid (peanut) shaped rotor spinning and orbiting into 3 chamber lobes, exactly what you and Liquid Piston are working with. He also had further variations with more lobes (3 in 4, 4 in 5), etc. I used to have a book on Wankel's designs, given to me by an engineer and former boss. Sadly, that book is long gone and I've never been able to find another copy (there are nearly countless books that come up when you search on his designs, it's a very popular topic). It was a relatively thin (hardback) book, a large portion of the book was the drawings of his designs with terse descriptions.
Oh wow that's awesome, I had no idea he had come up with so many unique engine designs. I'll definitely do a bit of research and see what some of his others look like! Thanks for sharing!
@@3DprintedLife Sadly, I think I finally found the title of the book I was talking about (I haven't seen it in decades). I had no idea it was actually *by* Felix Wankel! It's no longer in print and is called Rotary Piston Machines. It was only 64 pages, but had many designs per page.
@@glabifrons @3DprintedLife I believe I have a copy of this book! I'll have to dig through storage...
According to the channel Warped Perception, who has been to Liquid Piston and talked with the owners. They fully admit that Felix Wankel was aware of these shapes, and had his own designs for them. However they said he couldn't figure out how to seal them properly. Which makes sense because if I'm not mistaken it was Mazda engineers who came up with the idea for apex seals.
@@christopherbrown6523 The 1963 book Rotary Piston Machines by Felix Wankel (mentioned in my previous post) shows apex seals on, not only the design Mazda went with, but on this design as well. The seals are even called out and identified by color (green). None of the engines could run without them. Mazda didn't invent apex seals, they improved the apex seals through material research.
Also, Mazda isn't the only company to make them, nor are they even the first. NSU had production cars running rotary engines when Mazda was just showing off a prototype.
Felix's favorite design (the "no orbiting" one I mentioned in my previous post) is the DKM variant. His prototype spun up to 17,000 RPM and produced amazing power for its displacement (although the engine size for the displacement was huge). The KKM variant is the one everyone is familiar with.
Wikipedia has a good page on the topic, although it's specific to only two of Felix's original designs. It's astonishing how many companies produced at least prototype rotaries (GM, Rolls Royce, etc.), if not production ones (Suzuki, Norton, Hercules, even some lawnmower and snowmobile manufacturers).
To keep friction down, I would recommend having one half of the mating pair be a different material/hardness. You can also get teflon (PTFE) o-rings to make low friction sliding seals. They are much harder than the o-rings you're using now, but they will slide much better
Great tip with the ptfe o rings, I'll try those out! I also bought some ptfe coated tape which I'll use to coat one side of the mates and hopefully that will improve things significantly.
Material science!
I love this community because of all the novelty engines we make! Can't wait for the finnished product and maybe a competition!
The youtuber steam boat race 😍
@@stingraymaster877 first i have to build a steam engine though 😂
@@AxelDayton video idea: build a steam engine
"finnished", so only Finns can compete? ;)
The engineering of those motors is phenomenal, and the fact that you keep going after so many versions is honestly inspiring.
Air pressure propels the piston just far enough until the piston blocks the inlet, at which point the "combustion chamber" becomes a vacuum if the rotor keeps spinning. Looking at where the inlet is actually taking in air in the cycle @4:30 it looks like it's only taking in air at the very beginning of the "combustion" phase and then closing up while there's still tons more expansion occurring in the chamber volume - which is all vacuum! You need pressure to continue building in the chamber or it becomes a vacuum the piston is fighting against to continue rotating beyond the inlet closing. If you have really high air pressure and a lot of inertia I could see it overcoming this vacuum and making it to the chamber's exhaust phase but I think you need an oblong inlet, either on the piston or on the housing so that it can continue consuming air along its "combustion" phase until just before the exhaust phase. Great video nonetheless and good luck!
Precisely my thoughts but my english is not good enough to explain it, glad you did, hope it helps, this engine looks awesome.
This is one of my favorite corners of RUclips. Great to see this channel grow!
Thank you!
This is awesome, you are doing so well working with such a difficult machine.
1; glass is very flat
2; it may be worth a try to assemble the outer inner and one end plate,,,,then sand again for flatness and level?
3; those little motors out of cassette players are very low friction and could be used as dyno loads. Either by diode stack for rpm limit or resistor for variable load. NOTE, be sure to use the internal resistance of the motor windings as part of your load calculations.
Thank you for helping to keep my passion for engineering and RnD alive. I am always so inspired and optimistic after watching your content. It reminds me there is no task too difficult given time and resources.
I love the detail and applications you choose for your videos, and I truly wish you the best of days.
Cheers.
An oil atomizer between the intake and the compressor hose should help tons (something like a carburettor) atomizing PTFE oil (tbh don't know if it's compatible with resin).
It shouldn't be too difficult using a 0.1mm 3D printer nozzle (or even a proper carburettor jet), a Venturi tunnel and a couple of hose couplers.
Just a hint from a two stroke guy :P
Hmmm that's a real interesting idea...
@@3DprintedLife Oil instead of grease is a good move, but introducing it via a carburetor-type device will be very tricky. But you are not running long enough to lose an initial coating of oil applied to the parts. For longer runs, you could make a syringe holder with a screw against the plunger to inject a measured amount of oil into the air line. The latter approach can be automated for really long runs.
"Knowing all the weaknesses of my original design, meant I tried to resolved them all here and I may have bitten off a bit more than I can chew."
You've basically quoted a textbook definition of the second system effect there...
I've been commenting "Build a liquidpiston engine!" on every Integza video for like 2 years -- I just stumbled on your part 2 video, but came to watch this one first. Great stuff! Very happy to subscribe, thanks for your dedication, oooof all that sanding ha
Thank you very much!
The rotor looks like a jellybean. I'll now be calling this the coolest jellybean motor on RUclips.
I love the iterative approach and testing. Excited for pt. 2
Cool beans. I remember running into challenges when designing my version but I really like your approach to the valve system
I don’t know if it could help at all, but a labarynth seal is surprisingly effective with large clearances.
Short version, multiple grooves seal far far better than flat surfaces with the same clearance.
Interesting idea, appreciate it!
Its great to see creative projects using this trochoidal geometry. I worked on it 40 years ago for a steam expander - us pat 4395206. The seals were always the tricky part. Ideally, use a face seal for flat sides of your piston. But difficult to fit in such small size. We used a 4 lobed stator and 3 lobed piston, easier to fit things in.. Good luck and best wishes!
A new video from my favorite channel! Thanks for the quality content
Thanks, glad you enjoyed!
this motor is made utilizing the oposite geometric mentality cause the wankel is to lobe external, three internal, then liquidpiston is three lobe external two lobe internal making him more armonic and balanced, I really admire that people who design this smart configuration!
Love the idea of the liquid piston.
As sealers, you can use strips of plastic (PET) from a water bottle. You can either spring it with the same rubber (by placing a roller) or by making "antennae" on the reverse side of the strip.
In fact, there will be an imitation of steel seals from the original.
So the seal will be quite reliable, but with less static friction forces, it will be easier for the motor to start.
If you make the valve holes further out from the axis the friction will be lower since the movement between the surfaces will be slower.
No, that is backwards. Further from shaft means higher speed, and thus more drag force AND that drag is at higher speed. *Power is **_proportional_** to speed cubed x force.*
Awesome video as always!
@3DprintedLife - There are many good comments from other viewers. I have a few of my own for you - Since your motor shaft and dyno shaft have a permanent offset between them, you should use a coil spring or a piece of soft silicone tubing as the shaft coupler. And it should be longer than the short piece of tape, but not so long that it kinks when torque is applied. *Or preferably make a jog in the end of the motor shaft so that it eliminates the offset,* or (less ideal) an adapter for the dyno shaft that matches the offset of the motor shaft. As for the torque arm adjustment being too crude, you could use a thin (or thick) lubricant to alter the coefficient of friction to be a bit lower (or higher), and/or place the adjustment screw farther from the shaft. Finally, is your load cell a continuously-reading (analog) type, so that you can digitize the output current or voltage at a high sampling rate? This latter item is particularly important if the motor output shaft remains off-center.
Great design and video! I would suggest the air holes should have a taper to piston that requires "firing" so the air pulls to the centre of closet chamber and fires into rotation. Other than that get rid of the orings and the holes, let the air go into the shaft and through the piston body (don't forget the piston will also need to exhaust the air, otherwise it will build pressure and lock up). Good luck! Can't wait for part 2.
Nicely done! I used a hall effect sensor to figure out the position of the flywheel and rpm. IIRC, the load cell I used had a "refresh rate" of about 10Hz, was your faster? Or did you manage to get accurate data off it faster than the 10Hz? Or are you working with the 10Hz refresh rate?
Don’t give up on this! This is awesome 👍
Thanks and I won't! Already made some big changes to the design that are looking super promising
Wonderful design 👏 👌 ❤
Wondrium sounds like a marketing team couldn't come up with a good name, so they said yes to all the ideas.
Just stumbled across this video on my homepage and I was instantly fascinated! Do you even have any fingerprints left?🤔🤔🤔🤣🤣🤣😂😂👌🏻
Nope all gone! Glad you enjoyed it!
@@3DprintedLife 😂😂😂🤣🤣
How do you only have 46k subs?! Great contect thank you very much
Have you thought of using wear-resistant filaments like tribo plus. It's a pain to print but maybe some molding?
in 0:53 and 2:15 you simulate the movement of your part. Ive been looking for software to do that, or in other words how do you do that?(sorry im kinda new to 3d simulation)
just connect it to your tap as fluidic water is obviously denser than fluidic air, add a bigger properly balanced fly wheel -cd/10mm cement/cd- to keep the momentum too.
you could also do the Obvious hybrid version where you deliberately add air into the water flow to get hybrid 'trompe' sealed cold compression flow -with the outlet twice the size of the inlet oc-
Crazy thought...it seems like the difficulty with the seals is that the seals on one axis (your apex seals) have to work in combination with seals on the other axis (flat rotor to flat case). That 90 degree transition between seals seems difficult, so what if the transition went away?
Instead of a flat rotor, would it be possible to make it round? Like two golf balls merged together. Then shape the case the same way. That way your apex seals would get you from shaft to shaft without two 90% bends.
Wow... not really a fan of those rotary engines but its always nice to see one running. Good luck!
P.S. : how's the robot arm? is it discontinued?
Oh no I've still been making a lot of progress on it, it's just a much bigger project than I originally expected! I'm hoping one of the next few videos will feature the arm completed.
Nice! I actually remixed Integzas version into a two rotor motor. I should make a video of it running.
Oo that sounds awesome, definitely do it! My next rev of the liquid piston supports an even thinner rotor...so assuming it works well I should be able to make a crazy compact dual rotor version. Hmmmm
What are the equations required to draw the 2d curves, in order to make the housing and rotor?
You could maybe try gearing down the output shaft to make the rotation at the encoder slower
it would be awesome to see something like this made of metal
It would probably be a lot easier to get it working too :)
The Legend is back
Nice video clip, keep it up, thank you :)
There's surprisingly little talk about the LP engine, even though it's been around for awhile now, though it doesn't help that there's been nothing but radio silence from LP ever since they had gotten some big contracts. Personally, I want to see the concept worked on. In it's current state it's basically a modified DKM Wankel, which took air in through the center shaft and pushed it through the rotor into the combustion chamber, the LP does this through the side plates. Where better design, more than likely especially under boost pressure and higher forces, will probably be more similar to the KKM Wankel, which is what we know as the modern Wankel rotary, where porting is done in the housing and the rotor is solid; there's reasons why the DKM didn't catch on but the KKM did, through there's more reason for this, like the annulus chamber that caused more complexity, but I have a feeling the LP design will eventually face a similar fate, especially once it gets into multi-rotor designs due to how complex the porting would become. Even in a valved design, a solid rotor will more than likely be preferable to a slightly hollow rotor under higher stresses. I'm also a bit curious as to how balancing works within the LP engine, especially the hollow pockets; and balancing should matter, the inner and outer envelopes of a two-lobe epitrochoid form the same curve, the Wankel's rotor is the inner and the LP engine's housing is the outer, the balance should be similar but inversed due to which part is rotating.
As for the sealing claims. Sealing will face similar issues as the Wankel rotary, sure the seals may be on opposite parts, but they'll still face the same problems. However there are some more advanced seal designs, but we'll probably never see these implemented due to higher costs, either Paul Lamar or Pattakon, I forget which at the moment, had made an article covering sealing difficulties and more complex seal designs, at least the theory behind the sealing issues and improvements, there hasn't been any practical tests of these as far as I know. The issue with this claim is that reference isn't taken into account, once you account for reference you will see that no matter which side the seals are on they will be doing the exact same job with the exact same difficulty; one could make the argument that the geometry they're sealing against will make a difference, but the specific design of the LP engine's seals are sealing on the exact same geometry that the Wankel rotary does.
Personally, I'd like to see rotaries taken in a different direction, different epitrochoid lobe counts rather than just switching between inner and outer epitrochoidal envelopes. Sure, the difference between envelopes is interesting, but I think it'd also be interesting to see what different lobe counts would also accomplish. Again, either Paul or Pattakon had explored the concept in theory, but there hasn't been much in practical application of these theories.
Consider casting you pieces in acrylic using your print as master? Also have you tried applying some teflon lube? I have had some luck appling it to parts and then buffing it in.
Friction is independent of contact area. Force derived from pressure is directly dependent on the volume. Just scale it up.
You're definitely right about that, but going bigger is kind of cheating. In fact, I've managed to make the next version smaller and I'm way more confident it will get running :)
That's s cool motor! The 1st would be a good fidget lol
I refues to call it liquid piston. It's a rotary.
I had a similar issue with the encoder providing too many pulses so the data flatlined (I was using an arduino mega). A couple ways around this are to go into the library file and modify it so that it is not sending all quadrature data (to reduce ppr) and/or only output the data after a number of pulses are counted. I’m not sure how you are calculating speed but it may be too much for the microcontroller to calculate in real time. I suggest setting an if statement to output the current time data every 100 pulses or so and then calculate the speed later. You know the rotation amount per # of pulses so time is all you need. Will be less precise but definitely more accurate if the micro controller is at its limit. Hope this helps!
Integza soon: thanks for the video idea!
Very interesting mate. New Sub!
Welcome!
How about using a thin sheet (foil?) of stainless steel metal for a smooth surface? Then on that, have a sliding sheet of teflon? Maybe?
I wonder if you could use a brushless DC motor for your dyno, that will measure the rotation speed easily enough, but it'll also allow to to control the resistance electrically
I think even a brushed motor would work, I just figured that would have been more difficult to set up but it would be a fun project!
I guess the liquid part of that engine is from the tears you shed after each iteration fails to work.
I'm looking to design my own HEHC engine, but I can't find anything on the actual geometry of the chamber and rotor. Is there a mathematical formula for the geometry of them, or if not how did you design it?
Edit: I just looked something up and found out that the Mazda-style Wankel engine uses an epitrochoid for the chamber, is the rotor an epitrochoid here as well?
Edit 2: Oh this design uses a 2-lobed epitrochoid for the rotor and a 3-lobed epitrochoid for the housing. Neat!
You could use some magnets and hall effect sensor for angular velocity, since you probably don't need 640 data points for revolution. You could also try to build some kind of water brake instead of using lever that is clamped on the shaft so that the startup and the whole session runs smoother. All that said i have no experience in building dynos :D
yessss this was my suggestion let's gooooooooo
Great video. I think your lapping would work better on a nice big (12 inch square or so) piece of glass. Sheet glass is quite flat, I'm pretty sure plenty for your purposes. It's cheap and I think you'll find the larger size a lot easier to get a nice flat dimensionally true part with lapping. Speaking of, there's a specific technique used for lapping. Worth looking for some videos to see how the pros do it. Looking forward to more of your videos. I appreciate your methodical tenacious nature.
THE PEANUT SPINS IN THE TRIANGLE
My whole world is upside-down now
Could use graphite as a lubricator similar to Integza's rotary engine design
I didn't like how the graphite dust got aerosolized while running the engine, so I'll be avoiding using that for most of the lubrication. I may use graphite rods as the seals though
Glass/mirrors are pretty flat for sanding reference surfaces. might be a little more roomy than a 1x2x3 block
Yeah hah good point. The original protos (even before what I show here) were a bit smaller so I thought this would be fine. But glass is a good idea going forwards
Awesome video as usual. You're really good at problem solving and pushing past the tedious parts of designing and building these projects. It's like a combination of patience and determination (if you're unsure what I mean, go watch any vid by Ivan Miranda and you'll see what I mean,he's the king of that skill imo). I'm not sure whether its an innate or learnt skill, but you've got it, and it's not something everyone possess. I've noticed the RUclips makers that have this in them usually go far with their channel and build really amazing projects. I have no doubts you'll do the same if you wanted to.
whaaaaat??? the torque tube you made from painters tape wasn't rated for any appreciable amount of torque, no way??!!😉💫
I admire your tenacity, I hope you find a good solution to the valving. I wish you could have a 1 way valve inside each air channel in the piston, but i'm sure you wish that even more than I do. I am not sure how you could make one, maybe a hinged flap, inside the passageway, set at an angle so back pressure would drive it closed? tiny spring holds it closed, and air pressure opens it? I just can't imagine how you could print the part with the inclusion as a moving part, and I also can't imagine how you would get it in there if it wasn't included in the print. Maybe you could add a "drop down" style gate in each pathway, that is held down by the plate you are using now for a seal, but in more of a "cam guiding a mechanism" kind of way, where it can only come up/open during the period when it should be in use.
Similar and low hardness running surfaces seem like problems but I'm more accustom to metal component requirements.
Yeah definitely is a problem, but I have a bunch of solutions for that I'm currently testing out!
Hi how did you draw the chapes for the rotor and housing?
I admit to know nothing about this but why not drop the rotor valve system and go to an external eg housing valve system yes it will add more parts but the tolerances would be mush less.
You really do not need this kind of resolution on your Dyno. I do a lot of order analysis on car engines and as a primary signal I am using a inductive sensor on the alternator coupling. So depending on the manufacture you get 40 - 80 impulses per rev. This is enough for performance or imbalance gauging. But nice work all together.
7:25 , you said you sanded everything to +/- 25 microns (basically +/- .001"). but calipers are really only accurate to about .003". a micrometer would get you closer to that .001" measurement you're looking for
Normally I'd agree with you, I was lucky enough to get a pair of professionally calibrated mitutoyos. The plastic is a bit soft so measuring reliably is trickier. But the point of the comment was more that tolerance/fit wasn't the big issue here. Materials and friction were.
@@3DprintedLife I have a set of certified starrett calipers: still only accurate to .003". It's just how calipers are, there isn't a caliper any more accurate than that out there and never will be. Proper measuring tools are expensive but I do agree with materials and how the part is engineered is your biggest issue. That's what make 3d printing is such a great platform creating several iterations of a part cheap and quickly until the desired result is achieved
You try to lubricate the engine with graphite instead of grease to reduce friction.
Good idea to make liquidpiston. Im too elsee on it. Then i dream about engin wich vork like freezer. To make rotation from low heeting like +30-50 degree of celsium. Its can work in ammonium-water close system. Its can give us effective metod of convert sun energy in to rotation and generation elecrisity.
All you need for a dyno is a dc generator connected to an ammeter and a bank of high wattage resistors. Measure the voltage produced and the amperage and do the math. Or you could use a weighted flywheel and a tachometer and do it the old fashioned way.
You should a round engine like air wrench!
Hi Guys, sorry for the dumb question but is this engine legal to reproduce/sell or does LiquidPiston own all of the IP on it? (Given that it’s Wankle inspired design)
Why dint u use any oil lubricants?
It's a dumb name for a new design. Liquid in this case literally means absolutely nothing. They just tossed in there cause it sounded cool I guess.
That being said, the engine and design itself are very cool. I'm always amazed by the folks that can figure out this kind of thing and tinker with it on their own. Very cool. Cheers.
Is it really best to have such narrow valve timing?
Nope :) But it's tricky to keep the valve open for too long with this design.
What's the idea with the torque sensor? Are you estimating the friction coefficient (slip) or something to then estimate the motor torque? A more reasonable way may be to use a DC motor + encoder as a generator (connected to the motor shaft). By connecting a range of resistors across the terminal and measuring the voltage drop, you can measure power at different electrical loads. Since you know motor speed from the encoder and P = Tw = V^2/R, you can calculate motor torque as T = V^2/(Rw). Would help to also know the motor efficiency or at least estimate it. Just an idea, since I use torque sensors (or current-based torque sensing from motor controllers). These, of course, aren't cheap, but my research lab owns them though haha.
Best of luck. Good work on the project so far!
Yeah using a good motor is probably a better solution. I didn't go this route since I didn't want to figure out the efficiency and how much energy was being wasted there without being measured. The beauty with this design is that it really doesn't matter how much or little friction there is on the shaft, since you measure the force applied to the load cell and that lets you directly calculate the torque resistance applied to the shaft. Even if friction changes over the run, all of that energy still is captured in the data. It would be way nicer if I could vary this torque during the run to allow the engine to come up to speed before loading it down, but simple is sometimes better!
Your equation is wrong. Imagine stalled motor. The electric power will be high, but mechanical will be zero. Basically it doesn't take efficiency into consideration. Also motor has impedence, not just resistance...
Anyway, this Dyno is very clever and simple. Very good idea. The nut can be tighten to vary the load. By subtracting inertia during acceleration, one could even roughly generate torque curve over speed range. :)
This isn't an original invention, I think hyundais? one point had an orbital engine. It would leak oil really bad but for what it was (a small, powerful engine) it kicked ass in the very short term
make the intake and thoughput bigger. there are better shapes for it as well, take a look at the peripheral ports in the rx8 renesis wankel engine.
how the side wall seal?
Plastic Doritos engine sounds like actual Doritos engine
Are those clear plastics 3d printed?
Yep! With a resin printer
what resin do you use?
Just standard translucent resin from elegoo
very good! but why don't make it little bit bigger? keep going! 🙂 👍
With the meteoric rise of the EV's I have to wonder where this design could possibly go.......a novelty, yes, but too late for the party as all the guests are going home.
impeller reaction wheel turbine instead, reverse water wheel, center in
That would be really cool, just harder to measure the output accurately especially at these low torques
Please come back
I'm not gone :)
bro you need an air compressor, or buy cheap compressed nitrogen and regulate it down. it will make life a ton easier
Let’s go
Cant you oil it?
Yes but the ptfe grease I use is actually a bit better, as it helps to seal small gaps in the seals and is nearly as effective at lubricating as oil would be. It just is not as good for high speed, but I'm not quite there yet!
liquid gaskets?
Not sure why it's called an 'engine' more like a compressed air 'motor' at best. It's not generating it's own power, just converting other energy into rotational-kinetic energy
What about a gas powered one? Is that not just converting another energy (chemical) into kinetic energy through combustion? People frequently associate engine with a combustion engine only, but in reality it is a generic term and equally applies to both.
Maybe you could gear down the encoder?
I could, but that adds more friction from gears or belts. A lower resolution or custom encoder like I plan would definitely work best to get a true power output
@@3DprintedLife Thank you for answering! I have subscribed...
The bean engine
bean > dorito
still waiting the second part
I'm still working on it :)
looks more like an inverse cycloidal drive
Yeah you're kinda right!
Dont really need valves the rotor does that on its own
I call them valves, but they're really just ports.
جميل
maybe coat the surfaces with nail polish?
That's a neat idea, I may give that a try!
Not winkle but [ VAN KEL]
Those Liquid Piston engines have some significant problems!
You have double the power strokes than a Wankel, but all the exhaust hase to go to the same Port in the ROTOR.... can you see the Problem?
The apex seals in those have no benefit from being stationary but a disadvantage, the path of the sliding surfaces are the same for the apex seal in both engines, but in a wankel the seals get pushed out by centrifugal forces, wich hase showen by coincidence to be a benefit in wankels. In order to make up for the highest pressures to seal against, the apex seals have to be spring loaded all the time on the highest needed force, or you need another control mechanism for them.
Carbon build up on the hot side of the rotor, and lack of lubrication...
And the all in all asymmetry of the rotor is just horrible. 🤯
In a wankel, you can deal with the cooling of the stationary exhaust side quite easely, like in a piston engine.
But in this... how do you get the rotor cool on the exhaust side?
Only chance would be with the engine oil, with wather... no chance to get that separated with sliding sealing surfaces.
And oil hase a very low heat capacity, and that should handel the cooling of double the power INSIDE the rotor???? NO FU..ING WAY!!
Wankels have masiv heat problems because of that, Piston engines have also trouble of keeping the Pistons cool.
By doubeling the power densety of a wankel, you quadruple the engenering troubles!
You're experimenting w/ a pneumatic MOTOR, not an Internal Combustion ENGINE.