One thing this video doesn't touch on is that there is more to being upright than comfort. It also improves visibility of oncoming traffic and signage. This is incredibly useful in urban environments, and part of the reason why cruisers can be great and drop bars can suck.
Oddly I don't remember newbies having trouble with cruiser bars nack when they were the only kind (except the ape hangers on stingrays). Personally I think the speed thing is ridiculous, I can crouch down out of the windstream on cruisers as any of the others maybe not as comfortably as the rams horn drop types but they are uncomfortable anyway and with cruisers I can sit up where they are stuck with crouching like they are in a race to everywhere.
I find that looking over my shoulder in upright position somehow strains my neck very uncomfortably; it is much easier with significant forward tilt when my chin goes towards my shoulder. So lower posture actually gives me somewhat better visibility because looking over my shoulder is comfortable.
@@kekddd Er, now I can turn my head without letting go of anything and I have very good visibility. I actually do have visibility problem when I ride a city bike that puts the rider to pretty much vertical posture; I have much better idea of my surroundings on my hybrid where the bar is slightly lower than the seat. I guess a full butt-up position would become a problem in terms of visibility, but just a significant forward tilt is very comfortable in all aspects.
I am th worldleader &king of kings in all adpect bicycles. Lol no i dont have videos. I explain it all HERE: (But people wont buy it) Handlebars, bikes ergonomics engineered by Lucifer. He HATES free energy. 95% humans ars Lucifers kids, tares. They are not humans. They subscribe, perpetuate false reality stupidity in all things. They are cmputer cntrolled hive mind. But they dont know that. Handlebar must be 29 or 30" 4average adult 5'9" 2 reasons. A front basket HANGING BY STRAPS FROM BARS is how 2transport up2 70lbs. Bicycles are MADE 2COMMUTE STRAIGHT LINE &CARRY THINGS. PERIOD &safety, stability handling. Those are your parameters. Revolve around those. Period. Bars wider then shoulders ONLY. 2 reasons. This forms a stable TRIANGLE required4 stability handling especially once u add weight front basket. Secondly, wide bars allow u carry wide objects like 5 2x4 wood resting on bars strapped 2waist. U can also carry things on long bars such as 5gallon buckets bar ends. Wide bar DRAMMATICALLY improve stability. As does LOWERING LOWERING LOWERING thseat. U must use heaviest ULTRA STRONG STEM. Bicyclists can not be taught. Bcuz they are pharisees. Know it alls. Regarding seat height. Most humans are NOT HUMANS. They are poisonous cmputer programs. Seat height. Lol ypur knees can bend pedaling &efficientcy functions just fine low seat. Lol satan teaches place head 6 feet from pavement, give tiny bars so now u a sky scraper &taller they are thmore easily they fall. Lol. I taught people how 2sit on bike 1980"s. Graeme Obree built bike matching my specs &30 guys broke hour record using my specs. Lol my seat is slammed down as LOW AS I CAN GET IT. This raises your bars essentially. So u NOT bent over but LOWER TO THGROUND 4ridiculous STABILITY &AERODYNAMICS. U will realize 1.5 mph at 21mph top speed electric motor as such even tho u upright but head several inch lower.. WIDE BARZ LOW SEAT, SEAT FORWARD, BARS IN CLOSE 2U PERIOD. Worlds best basic e bike bicycle design is used by me exclusively. This will not see production ¬1 person will ask 2c it in comments. Wide would they? They are pharisee tares. Computer animations. Know it alls. Fact. All E bikes are absolutely deploreable contraptions built by Lucifer boys. All manufacturimg &non humans are controlled by Satans BEAST cmputer. That computer revolves around me as its epicentre arch enemy. Meanwhile, all thworlds problems can be solved in thgarden. And 4godsakes sell your stable of 230 horses.
As long as cities don't have decent bike lanes, "control" should be weighted x3. When you have to "jump" between bike path surfaces switching every 3m you just need to be able to control your bike. Therefore risers and flat are the only choices for me at the moment.
@@OanhSchlesinger Not practical for speed at all, but I find great joy in urban riding a hard tail mountain bike because of this. I'm in San Antonio and we're not a bike friendly city as well, so if I can't ride a neighborhood parallel to a busy street, I tend to ride sidewalks for safety, which I don't like to do. My single speed is great because it's quick and simple. The mountain bike is slower, but handles potholes, speed bumps and jumps in and off curbs so easily. Both of them have riser/flat bars for control. I even took a pair of my mountain bike bars (720mm wide) and put them on my single speed for much better control. I don't do drops. Bullhorns are fun but twitchy. Never tried pursuit bars. I have a set of cruisers and it's an adjustment, they're 660mm wide, but I feel less in control because of the sweep on them. Would be good for hybrid bikes I think.
I have a flat bar Bianchi C Sport 1 and seems to be a good commuter bike. I’ve thought about buying a drop bar attachment to make the bike look a bit cooler and for rides where I want to use the drops.
I am trying to imagine a straight-away on my commute where I could get tucked in and really crank up to full speed. But going fast seems like it would immediately lead to catching a pothole that I was going too fast to notice/avoid and crushing my skull. I'm sure there are better maintained places where you can actually get up to speed safely, but the Netherlands has pretty strict immigration rules so I probably won't live there. :)
The Dutch/Danes/Swedes/Germans all go for the cruiser bars. The most comfortable and if you are just riding A-B it's the only way to go. Summer and winter my now twenty-year-old Batavus (look them up on the Dutch or Danish websites, different bikes for different markets) is still the bike of choice. A comfy Brookes saddle, 7 internal gears, ride like a gentleman!
@@robinarnold9857 Just note that it really only works for short-distance and is used in those countries because they ride short distances and have roads made for cycling. The only other place it's really used is West Coast America. Just because those European nations do that, it doesn't mean it works in America, England, or Chile, either for the roads, terrain/slope/surfaces, style of riding, or distances. Cruiser bars are some of the worst bars for most types of riding in most nations, and are the lowest. I would suggest drops or riser bars for pretty much everybody/every nation, depending on a few factors. Note that in this video, the drops won the test easily.
@@TheClassicWorld i can't lie the cruiser is better for all round use as well as e bike application too. There is a reason the majority of bikes currently world wide use cruiser bars. Plus I am from England and have used all bar types and cruiser are my favourite by far especially being a young man (22) who's occupation is a bicycle courier.
@@TheClassicWorld I sometimes will ride 40-50 km with my Dutch bike. The idea these only work on short trips is pure propaganda! Much like how many sporty types LOVE to claim Dutch bikes can't work in hilly areas, when I live in one of the most hilly large cities in North America and my 60kg Dutch bike is just fine.
The secret is getting a bike with drop bars one size or even two sizes down (smaller than your usual). That way the reach is shorter and you can be a bit upright at times and be aerodynamic at times. If you follow the suggested size then there’s no chance for you to be a bit upright as bikes with flat bars are meant for speed; hence intended to be leaning forward. Works well with me.
Drop bars for sure. The sheer number of different hand positions is worth it alone. Strong headwind? Get in the drops. Just cruising? Use the flat section. Tired after a long day? Hop on the hoods.
@@georgplaz If you need to brake, you know you could just... move your hands? Just pay attention to your surroundings - it's not like you're going to have cars or potholes just appear out of nowhere. You can see where you'll need to have your hands ready to brake (intersection, blind corner, etc.) and put them into position ahead of time.
I've been a bike commuter off and on for years now, and finally made the jump to commuting full time. I hesitate to call myself a cyclist, just a chick who rides a bike, but in an effort to change that I've been doing an abundance of research, and for every question I ever have it seems you're there with a high quality video giving me all the answers
To my knowledge, the dutch solution to any discomfort you might feel in your wrists/arms from riding your bike for a long time is just to ride hands free. Most of my friends do that anyway. Of course that's a lot easier in the Netherlands because most of our roads are flat and we have a lot of big and safe bicycle roads. Imagine cycling hands free on a stroad💀
I'm a noob in city cycling, using bicycle to get some groceries, commute etc. Just started due to this pandemic, so I haven't ride it for long distance to office yet, but daily I went around my home. When I first bought it, due to me being noob, and don't know much about sizing etc. My bike came with the flat bar, and it is not comfortable at all as my arm reach is just enough to hold it with my body need to be lowered. I thought the bike size is wrong for me, but can't change the bike already. It was not comfortable and I didn't enjoy riding it, I prefer to cycle upright, given I'm not in a rush or anything. Then one day I went for a dutch bike tour in my city, and omg the dutch bike is very comfortable, I wish my bike is like that. So I started to look in online shopping app handlebar similar to the Dutch bike, not many in my country. I just found one seller, which name the handle bar as 'M shape vintage style handlebar' and I just go for it. It is sort of the 'cruiser' handlebar as you name it in this video. It totally changed my experience and I look forward to cycle everyday now, even after 3 months cycling as of today. It made my ride so comfortable and relaxed. Of course I do not do racing so maybe that's why it's suitable for me 😁
My commute is 6.85m/11k and I have gone with cruiser bars on my current bike and the one before. I found they gave me just that little extra height (1.5in/40mm) to sit more comfortably for that distance without at all impacting my riding speed, which gets up to 16mph/25kph for large stretches of the journey. Sitting like that also gives me a better view of the road, vehicles, traffic lights, etc. And the upright position also takes a lot of pressure off my hands, which usually become numb very quickly when I'm more leaning forwards. I honestly would not have a commuter bike now without cruiser bars
Great discussion. The main thing I'd quibble with is your preference for upright rides. Sitting upright means that your spine will have to absorb a lot more bumpiness, so I find it a lot rougher on the back. I also think that shifting the center of mass forward helps with handling as it allows you to shift your weight more easily. Finally, and that may just be me making stuff up - but I have the feeling that being angled forward helps me get more power onto the pedal for a longer part of a revolution of the crank. All in all, this would shift the picture well in favor of drop bars and bullhorns.
@@bait3027 commuters win on urban cycling. That's why most bikes in the Netherlands have commuter handlebars and are commuter bikes. Had to ride a bicycle to go to-and-from work with a laptop on my backpack. Used a commuter where i could strap my bag onto the "back seat" instead of carrying it in my back. It was a lot better than using a conventional road bike.
@@bait3027 no, they look more like the bullhorn bars in reverse... I guess they fall into the cruise category here; some one in the comments referred to them as 'Dutch bars' 😁
Just want to note that, objectively speaking, drops are the worst of all bars on your hands when in the drops, but the hoods are the best, along with riser that are slightly curved for better position.
I rode bullhorns for seven years on my commutes and by chance got a narrow riser just to give it a try. It was a blast! Couldn't believe it'd be so comfy and responsive
Drops. Multiple hand positions. Best for wind. Energy efficiency. Getting through narrow spaces. Also the most natural hand position. Wide cruiser bars can be anti social on some bike racks.
Bullhorns are amazing, I love them because you can still get into the riser/flats handlebar position and actually using the "bullhorns" are awesome for areas where you don't need brakes like hills or long straights. I also don't find it too hard reaching the brakes when using the handlebars. I am actually impressed at how well our hands adapt to a parallel bars configuration over a straight bar position ,since it isn't a naturally occurring position whereas a straight bar is, when I first started gripping stuff for workouts and biking.
I live in the suburbs without a car, albeit in suburbs with actually decent cycling infrastructure which I know is uncommon. I've been trying to wean off of depending on deliveries, as well as friends and family for lifts, and bought an e-bike with good carrying capacity, cruiser bars, and overall set up for an upright position, and I love it. Of course, it being an e-bike is also a big part of it, as it makes rides that would be chores a whole lot easier (even in hot weather, it's remarkable how much less tired and thirsty I'll be after getting groceries on my e-bike compared to the old bike), but the increase in comfort shouldn't be underestimated. It makes using the bike as a proper vehicle a breeze, as opposed to a sporting item or an occasional convenience. There are a lot of errands and activities that I used to put off doing on my bike, or pay to get delivered, or ask for help on, that I do gladly now. I also don't think people should see cruiser bars as having "less control", at least not remarkably so. It's mostly just that there's a learning curve if they're not what you're used to. You can make tight turns just fine, but you might have to get used to a slightly different way to do it. Which, of course, if you're in a difficult cycling environment and risk getting run over, maybe you don't want that.
@@garypotter5569 That's my biggest fear. Using at least two decent locks including an alarm lock, and covering it whenever I leave it out for longer than 15-20 minutes, has worked so far. It's also worth saying I haven't had to commute to work and leave the bike there all day or anything like that since the pandemic. Most thefts seem to occur in the city proper so I've been doing fine with my local errands in the burbs, although I have avoided a few places with really bad or no bike racks. I think it's partly down to being lucky in where I live. The real market for seasoned bike thieves is in Montreal proper, not in the burbs where 75% of people have garages, so I think we just don't get as many with all the tools out here.
Yep, cruiser bars & an upright comfortable riding position are a really good choice for ebikes. I live in a very hilly, windy area & before getting an ebike wouldn't consider anything but drop bars & a road race frame, but now comfort & visibility are what I need most cos the ebike makes hills & wind irrelevant. Have to say, I absolutely love ebikes!
I find drops pretty comfortable especially if you stick to the hood position as default and shift around from there based on need, and with the right frame fit and and handlebar positioning they can be much less aggressive than an actual racing bike. Control is probably the worst thing about them, but you can make do with them in any city situation especially in hood position, also they come in different widths so just use a wider bar (like for a gravel bike). Plus getting there faster (aka spending less time in the saddle) and with less effort expended by your legs is its own kind of comfort.
For bike commuting in an urban jungle, with a lot of variables in traffic, the most important factor is I would say control. On a daily basis, you will have situations where all kind of opticals jumps in front of you, and you have to steer sharply and quickly. With better controls, you retain more solutions for any given situation.
Control is very important, I agree. A lot of it depends on your commute. If you're darting in and out of traffic and negotiating tight corners around moving vehicles, that's one thing to consider. If you're mostly riding on pathways or bike lanes, then I put comfort and practicality at the top of the list. Thanks for the great comment.
What type of urban jungle really matters too I think. Cities with lots of winding roads can be unpredictable because you can’t always see that far ahead of you.
Flat bars with bar ends where hot in the 90ties and still a good option for me. They offer the same holding positions like the bull horn. Currently I have drops but most of the time I am using the hoods for comfort and visibility. So a bullhorn or flat with bar ends would do it too.
I used to have a flat bar with bar ends, and on a whim I added bar ends to the bar ends, making a sort of crash cage for my hands. Really saved my hands when i hit some ice and slid off the road. The left side of my handlebars hooked the corner of a building. Bar bent, but they saved my fingers from being crushed.
Not just upright but have control chracteristics of riser and flat bars and come high in practical cos you have so much space to attach stuff to the bars and the cross bar. Alos they will break like all the other bars haha.
I went from risers that my bike came with to dropbars that were such a relief when cycling. I did add a riser thing on the stem that provided more area to put things, but I'll clamp on things right over the corked area.
No handlebars on my favorite bike: center steered recumbent: comfort 9 speed 12 (at least two steps faster than a racing bike) control 8 I can rescue a breakout drifting rear wheel, but you need to learn first, tight cornering possible at high and low speed, low speed down to walking pace is no problem practicality n/a as you have to put your stuff elsewhere on your bike looks 10 fun 10 vision 8 (forward better than anything else, behind might be difficult) Safety 7, low height for falling, feet first vs head first, very good vision, down for pollution being higher down low and low tide height might occasionally lack overview What they are missing is upper body workout Great content from your video, enjoyed it, greetings from Germany
I like drop bars on my commuter. My commute is very long and not really through an urban environment, so the extra speed and improved leverage comes in handy.
You missed touring bars / butterfly bars. I've setup two of my friends with touring bars for their commuter bikes. Upright, multiple hand positions, adjustable angles. I also like low-rise flat bars with horns added on to the end like a 90's mountain bike. The horns give you an outside hand position to take pressure off your wrists on longer rides without sacrificing control.
I agree on the butterfly bars........a MAJOR oversight of the alternatives discussed in this video. They are ugly as sin, but I think they might win out if they were put through his scoring evaluation.
Drop bars are so awesome to work with. It takes time to settle into it but it is worth the try. Also very easy to sneak past traffic and fit the bike inside narrower corridors. But also makes quick work of breaking through the wind.
Personally, I’ve only ever had a bike with cruiser handlebars. I’ve always enjoyed them quite a bit, and honestly I don’t see any compelling reasons to switch at this point. That being said, it was cool to get to listen to your perspectives on other types of handlebars and how they compare to what I use :)
There are other channels that somehow think using road bikes with drop bars are better for commuting than the actual commuter bikes (that they never even showed.)GCN - if you’re still wondering.
I live and decided to get into cycling but I had no idea there were so many bike options. I went to google and immediately got overwhelmed. Thanks for your channel!
I find flat bars with short bar ends are the best for commuting, but I like the look of drops so I 'converted' my flat bars to look like drops by using 2 U shaped pipes that you get supplied with washing machines to fit the pipe in the sink and covered with bar tape and fixed to my bar ends. Looks absolutely superb (to me!) and weighs next to nothing.
I love drop bars. When the middle position that has the breaks is at a comfortable space, you have a faster position when you grab down, and a very comfortable Position when you grab the flat bar❤️
All my commuter bikes of the last 50 years have had cruiser handlebars with the exception of my Brompton folding bike. For commuting or casual riding at lower speeds I like to be upright so I find them the most comfortable plus control is important in traffic when you don't have a bike lane.
Dropbars are 100% on the bottom of the list. If your backpack has a laptop, you want to sit upright, for comfort and so your shirt doesn't get wrinkled.
Yesterday, I had a long, relatively challenging ride using my 76 year old body and a newish urban commuter, a Pure Rides 58’x 225 tires. I couldn’t easily fall asleep because my scoliosis twisted body (from an old job) was so positively energized. Cruiser Handle bars, a proper length foot/seat setting and good brakes make the difference. I especially like my cruiser handlebar’s leather on the wider hand grips. My cruiser bars are more upright than your video example and better for me. They are a Dutch influenced design from California. Pain = No Gain. Perfect is just perfect. Stayed for the whole video. Waiting for your visit to the US Virgin Islands.🇻🇮
I think you nailed it with your weighted scores. Look at what the Dutch are using since they use their bike A LOT more than North Americans. Based on the videos I've seen they almost all use the cruiser style bars.
@@othmanskn the author makes some mockery on aero... i ve seen bike packing travellers going far... continental distances, using aero. it improves biomechanics also, not only aerodynamics.
I'm a newb (literally...just learned to ride in November). I have a crap, used Walmart mountain bike that I swapped out stuff to make it fit me. I kept the original riser handlebar, but added a taller quill stem to make me more upright and then adjusted the handlebars to be closer to me. Changed the rock hard seat to a comfort seat (not too wide) and recently swapped to flat mountain bike pedals (no screw studs). It may look goofy riding upright on a mountain bike, but it works for learning on. I have made huge strides in my riding confidence, so the changes made a differencr quickly. I already have my next bike on order, a Priority Classic Plus Gotham (all their bikes have a Gates Carbon belt drive), so it's built mainly for commuting but casual riding. I kinda think super wide comfort bars look goofy and take up space when navigating tight areas. I have not ridden a bike with with those yet, so my opinion may change. I want a happy medium between comfort and speed, hence why I chose the Gotham which has a riser handlebar and quill stem. Keeps everything fully adjustable as needs change.
Your commentary cracked my sh*t up. I've been blaming my handlebars for discomfort while I ride, but now I'm thinking it's something else. Great video!
4 года назад+47
where do you live? this urban landscape is beautiful. and why were the streets empty?
I don't go very far but the things I value the most are stability (which for me means I want to be low) and confidence on the road (which means I want to be fast like the cars when I need to), so I can't imagine giving up my drops! I wasn't so sure I'd be so steadfast in my decision until I watched this, but now I'm a lot more confident that I really don't want to switch for a while to be sure. I'm sure!
I hope newbies will visit a good bike shop, ride different bikes, and get the advice of a specialist on getting a bike which fits them. Bike fit is a function of frame geometry (angles and lengths), stem length and angle, seat height and horizontal distance relative to the pedals and handlebars, etc. The fit, comfort and control of a bike is a synergistic effect of the combination of these factors. Buying a bike and then changing the handlebars to one of those recommended by your arbitrarily numerified suggestions, or buying a bike because it comes with the handlebars suggested, is less likely to result in a satisfactory outcome than riding a number of different bikes to see what feels good and getting good advice from someone trained in bike fit issues. Drop bars have the advantage, along with bullhorn bars, of providing a neutral hand provision, that is, palm plane parallel with the sagittal plane (which divides the body into left and right halves.) If you stand in a relaxed position with your hands at your sides, your palms facing your thighs, your hands are in a neutral position. With drop bars, your hands rest easily on the brake hoods, putting minimal stress on your hands' and arms' joints. With drop bars, there is nothing to prevent us from selecting or setting up a bike with a geometry raising the drop bars well above the common geometry we see for racing bikes, so that the "sitting up" or "Dutch" or "comfort" position is available. Twenty to 30 years ago a number of the large bike manufacturers produced bikes on this model. Maybe it didn't look cool enough once mountain bikes gained the publicity stage. As an oldster with reduced flexibility and neck issues, I've added taller (but shorter horizontally) stems on both my (traditional frame) road bike and my touring bike, and they work well. The 4 or 5 hand positions available with drop bars serve comfort and control well for those riding several hours or more a day (long distance tourers and long distance racers) as well as those of us who have arthritis for whom a half-hour of riding with the pronated hands required by straight bars is difficult and, if repeated daily for decades, potentially deforming and debilitating. In terms of commuting, especially on busier two-direction bike lanes/trails but also with motor vehicle and pedestrian traffic, long flat/riser bars and cruiser bars have always worried me due to the greater risk for them to contact something fixed or moving the opposite direction (like another rider) on one side of the bike, applying a big force on that end, thus turning the wheel sharply and resulting in an "over the handlebars" or sideways dive, potentially a life-changing/ending experience. Narrower bars (classic drop bars for example, in the 40 cm width range) result in reducing the chance of such contact and less applied force and turning moment if it happens. As for control, the longer the lever arm between hand and steerer axis, the greater leverage can be exerted, but at the cost of needing greater distance travel by the hands. We might need great leverage with a mountain bike on obstacles like ruts, roots and rocks trying to twist our front wheel (hence my 60 cm mountain bike flat bars) but we don't tend to need big leverage while commuting on paved or crushed rock trails. The smaller the hand/arm extension flexion needed (assuming adequate force can be applied), the faster the turning. The quickest turning bike (assuming an attentive rider leaning at the appropriate time) I ever saw was a road bike equipped with 30-cm long flat bars, because the hand motions needed were so small. What about that standard of the 60's and 70's, the monkey bar (or in motorcycle parlance, "ape hanger"), most commonly associated with the Schwinn Sting-Ray, and later copied for generic kids' bikes? I put Sting-Ray handlebars on my 24"- wheeled Western Auto cruiser in about 1965, and it looked cool and became as comfortable as bikes come, because there was no body weight compressing your hands or wrists. You could stand up on the pedals and not have to bend over to keep the bars close to the body where you could exert force on them, because the handgrips were at hip-level. However, they slowed you down due to the non-aero upright position, which led me to install drop bars on the same bike a couple years later, which speeded up my riding very noticeably.
finally someone gets it! drop bars are the best for commuting and touring. just get them higher and closer so that the drops feel comfortable. i use the drops the most, the hooks are for descending, the hoods are when i need to react to unpredictable road users, and the flats are for climbing or eating snacks/drinking coffee
Mark Beaumont broke the world record of travelling around the world with these handlebars back in 2004 on a £2,500 bike (£3,800 in 2019). It was a touring type bike for extremely long distances, of course, and custom.
Cast into shape bars. 2 piece bars. The flag pole. The handgrips that make motor sounds. CB radio mounts so you can contact the truck drivers. How are you going to mount the 6 mirrors on those things?
I've had been working with bike commuting for the last two years, using cruiser handlebars. Last month my bike got some problems and I've been commuting with a friend's bike, wich have riser handle bars. Today I worked with my cruiser handlebar bike and can tell that riser bars are a lot more useful, but could be more "aggressive ", so I decided to change for flat 600mm handle bars. Among car traffic it can be a problem a large handlebar like cruiser.
I find it fascinating that you included cruiser handlebars, but not a mount for the handlebars where you can change the angle. I have riser handlebars that allow for a way more upright position, just because I can rotate them up by up to 60°. That also makes them easier to hold on to on steep inclines.
If you’re a seasoned rider converting an older bike to a commuter is a great idea. I have an early 90’s Schwinn Paramount. I stripped off the old component’s and replaced them with some used Dura-Ace 7800. I replaced the wheels with 25 mm DT Swiss Wheels with DT Swiss hubs. I added a riser stem with 4 deg rise and added a brooks B-17 saddle. I budgeted the cost over a year. I also use fairly low pressure modern tires. I basically changed everything out except the frame, BB and headset. So for about $800 to rebuild an old classic frame I was rarely riding I have a far better commuter bike than I could purchase today for $800.
I find that drops do not let me get to my breaks soon enough, so I vote for cruisers as I can have my hands on the breaks at all times, which is needed in a city.
I have cruiser handlebars BUT I bought some bar ends and added them towards the middle of the bars to create faux bullhorns. I LOVE this setup. I can get into an aggressive position with the ""bullhorn"" or relax with the cruiser. Admittedly I only have room for this setup because I ride a single speed with coaster brakes so I have zero hardware on my bars.
I've commuted on risers, bullhorns, and drops. This is a really good summary of all these types. Personally, I like bullhorns and drops for climbing because it puts more weight on the front while out of the saddle. It also matters how fast you're going, if you are not going above 15 mph (~22 kph) it makes more sense to prioritize comfort and control with flat bars or risers, and it's easier to use with barmits in the winter.
I take my drop-bars, and flip them around so that instead of dropping down, they RISE UP. I then hold onto the raised parts. I also move the hand brakes to these raised parts of the handlebars.
Wide flats (700mm) for me. Aggressive, comfort, and control. On a 1×7 Hybrid Gravel/Commuter 700×42. This thing shreds! I also just received my very first Bullhorn bar for my vintage Panasonic single speed that also shreds. I cant wait to wake up early and build my cockpit tom morn! Lol
Great video. One thing I would add is that everyone's commute is different and not all commutes are completely urban. For example on my route to work I go 20km, the first 10km is almost rural with low traffic and only minor junctions. It's only the second half which is urban but even then I've found a good low traffic route. To that end, the weighting for each category is really going to depend on the commute as much as the rider. I also think the video should have been called best handle bars for urban riding :)
Great summary. My preference is dropbars, due to my need for speed and variety of positions. I have neck and shoulder issues that tend to make themselves present on longer rides, and being able to shift hand positions throughout has been a huge benefit. I just came across your channel and I’m already 4 videos deep and looking forward to making my way through the back catalogue. Long live the daily bike commute!
I think an important column on the chart would be visibility. For example I feel that the best for me would be drop bars but for commuting they are the worst because I can't mount a mirror on them and it's hardest to turn my head around to see incoming traffic when I need to overtake cars stopped on the road. Flat bars/risers would be the best to mound a mirror on and wile cruiser bars won't be the best for mirrors, you can turn you head easiest to look around.
My last bike was a Schwinn Continental (from the 70’s), which was a drop handle 10-speed. I just got a bike which solves several dilemmas, since it’s an e-bike (Velotric Discover 2). It has the cruiser bars, but with the addition of pedal assist, you can increase the speed while riding comfortably. Definitely a different world today.
This video was actually very helpful. The first bike I've ever had in my adult life, and by extension the first I've ridden in years, has riser bars. They're solid but looking at this really shows their limitations. Of course I've only had the bike for a few days now so I'm probably the limiting factor here haha
Man listen: If you have to commute, you want to take account of comfort, practicality and longevity of the bike rather than speed. All you need to know how Dutch people commute to work by bike. Their bicycles are the best: - cruiser handlebar; - wide and comfortable seat; - upright riding; - solid components to last long with little to none maintenance; - fenders for when it rains; - compact breaking and gears system (go check the video about bicycles of Not Just Bikes); - boxes for when you have to carry goods (I find this very important especially in summer, when you tend to sweat a lot and a backpack would result annoying); - a crappy bike that not even unlocked someone would think of stealing it.
@@771shadowolf I can gain more traction off the start or at a stop. There's 3 ways to position yourhands so more then 2 options. Style does matter lol. I ride Fixation bullhorns black set.
A road bike with relaxed geometry can solve the body position issue quite easily while maintaining the drop handlebar option. Most road bikes are race or endurance which are quite aggressive positions but almost every brand has a relaxed geometry road bike too. Or go one step further and get a gravel bike which is even more relaxed. Put 30-32 mm road tires on and you have a fantastic commuter.
I'd add winds on commute route as a deciding factor. I'm in a valley so those winds get going and you want an option to quickly switch to a more aerodynamic posture into a headwind. I've considered getting bullhorns made up that are flats with bits attatched to the end.
I have my levers on both ends of my bullhorn handelbar. Not the most comfort handlebar, that is 100% right, but not such a low control, as you described, by no means . Actually, I feel, under the high speed that this configuration allows, one of the nicest riding experience when commuting at medium to high speeds.
I love drop bars for hand placement and gear changing and the 2 ways to brake. I just wish the adjustable bar would raise higher. I don't always want speed and wish I could raise them up.
Don't want to get too picky as I generally agree with your findings but I think risers and to a lesser extent flats should have been rated higher for comfort and control or maybe the other bars should have been lower.
If your commute is bumpy, curvy, and lower speed. Choose risers. If your commute has a lot of steep hills, choose bullhorns. If your commute has long flat sections or steady elevation gain, Choose drops. It all depends on what makes your daily rides more comfortable.
honestly, i feel like you havnt riden drop bars very much, I have a mountain bike and a road bike with drop bars, and its actually pretty comfortable on the drop bars. id like to note that I'm not particularly flexible but I can still get pretty areo.
I had to switch to cruiser bar and have no regrets. E bike daily commute is 5 miles each way. True you catch air, but I’ve got a slight downhill run a mile long and 28 to 30 mph is easy. I like my head over spine so I don’t have to use neck muscles so much. Also an extender got me even more upright. 3000 miles this way. Perfect for my 70 yr old body. I can make the bike dance.
Hi-rise bars! I have nerve damage from a misspent youth on road bikes. I can't ride far with any pressure on my hands. So I like bars that let me sit more upright than cruiser bars. if I had a muscle bike (like a Stingray with larger wheels) that would be perfect.
Likely others have also added this... But as an "injured cyclist" none of your bar options that you reviewed work for my shoulder injuries. I needed a bar that not only brought the grip area closer but also needed a "wrists in" position (Which the good folks at Rivendell call Wrist Nirvana). The bar I ended up going with was Soma Oxford. But there are some similar ones from Nitto and Velo Orange. Some people call these Mary Poppin bars or Dutch Bars or Albatross Bars (Like Nitto). Etc. Thanks for the great Urban Content!
I like mounting bar ends inside the brake levers on flat or riser handlebars. Gets you into an aerodynamic yet relaxed position when you want, and gives you more bike control than traditional tri or time-trial bars. Best of both worlds.
I ride bulls on a ss and it's awesome. Not necessarily recommended for casual riders or novice. Once you get a few hundred miles under your belt it's hard to beat though.
Planning to change from a loopbar to a bullhorn as I am more comfortable in a forward position. I have a long torso but I am not necessarily tall so Im thibking between buying a forward attachment for my loopbar so I could rest on it or just buying a Bullhorn.
My breaks and shift levers are standard Ltwoo ones and dont have budget to change it for now but might do so in the next few months so curious of your thoughts and experience in your setup:>
Totally a drop bar guy. Think they are comfortable. For the most part. However rising everyday. And riding a bit aggressively some times I find my wrists developing tendinitis. Actually pretty painful and uncomfortable. I want to see/ and or make a drop bar set with Bull horn extensions coming out the sides. Very cool. A really wide grip gravel drop set looks very comfortable too if your into drops. Also I think it’s canyon that created a really cool bar set with a double upper and lower cross member.
Surly Moloko Bar: 10 - 10 - 10 -10 - 11 I'd also add that while I love drop bars, the advantage to using bars that use MTB shifters and brakes is that the parts are usually cheaper and can be adjusted easier.
Love those bars, the only drawback for those bars is cost, and they not so good for accessing narrow places. I think there are no perfect bars, but Moloko and jones H are close to perfection.
There are so many styles of bars, more than you’ve been able to cover here. And then within those styles there’s so much variation. What’s good for one body may be bad for another. And then there’s the question of what kind of commute you have - inner city with cars and trucks or quiet country roads with deer and tractors. People are incredulous when they hear that I ride through Swedish winters on a drop bar bike, but to me that’s perfect.
I was hoping for a bit more discussion on rise and sweep for riser bars, since there are a number of options now, and the few degrees of sweep does help with wrist pain. In any case, great discussion! 👍
In my city I’m constantly fighting for my life commuting on a bike, so bars that don’t have your hands placed on breaks at all times is an instant no. I’m currently using risers but I’d like to switch to a dropdown
It should be noted that comfort is subjective & if you've got a strong back anyway then dropped bars or bull horns might be a more comfortable position. It certainly takes less effort to ride on a commuting road bike than a dutch bike, it's not just about speed.
Thanks, that is very helpfull. As a dutchman I grew up with cruiser bars and just bought a bike with a riser bar. I don't know if I ever get used to them and maybe you just convinced me to change my handlebars.
Just want to say that I get lower back problems, but find that I have no problem with different height bars - even aero bars are okay. Back problems are completely individual!
Your video was very helpful in making my decision . I have been riding a mountain bike with flat bars . And changed to riser bars for comfort. But I have discovered I like going fast for a workout . So I am buying a road bike with drop bars . Lighter and faster .
Likewise, in the crouch position with hands on the bottom bar felt kind of awkward at first but cuts through the wind nicely. I had to get used to the control & braking as well. Now it’s easy after much practice.
@@muhilan8540 You my friend have never ridden a Dutch bike! While they share some similarities, there are massive differences that put them into a category all their own. I own two Dutch bikes and a standard American cruiser. The difference is like comparing cruiser to racing bars.
you can put your hands int the middle next to the stem on riser or flat bars, heck even on cruiser bars. It will lower your wind resistance a little bit although it's not as easy to steer. . I sometimes put tape on mine for that purpose.
greetings from the Netherlands i commute without bars (unicycle)
Wired flex, but okay
"Shifter" uses a Halfbar and clings to a selfie stick for better control.
That is how I ride also. Hands in my coat pockets. Rides best.
Keeps you nice and upright that way, until you fall off!! :)
@@terry2346 the Dutch know how to ride. 😁
One thing this video doesn't touch on is that there is more to being upright than comfort. It also improves visibility of oncoming traffic and signage. This is incredibly useful in urban environments, and part of the reason why cruisers can be great and drop bars can suck.
Oddly I don't remember newbies having trouble with cruiser bars nack when they were the only kind (except the ape hangers on stingrays).
Personally I think the speed thing is ridiculous, I can crouch down out of the windstream on cruisers as any of the others maybe not as comfortably as the rams horn drop types but they are uncomfortable anyway and with cruisers I can sit up where they are stuck with crouching like they are in a race to everywhere.
I find that looking over my shoulder in upright position somehow strains my neck very uncomfortably; it is much easier with significant forward tilt when my chin goes towards my shoulder. So lower posture actually gives me somewhat better visibility because looking over my shoulder is comfortable.
@@NoIce33 I feel like that's a moot point. You can easily let go of your left hand and turn your back for full visibility.
@@kekddd Er, now I can turn my head without letting go of anything and I have very good visibility. I actually do have visibility problem when I ride a city bike that puts the rider to pretty much vertical posture; I have much better idea of my surroundings on my hybrid where the bar is slightly lower than the seat. I guess a full butt-up position would become a problem in terms of visibility, but just a significant forward tilt is very comfortable in all aspects.
I am th worldleader &king of kings in all adpect bicycles.
Lol no i dont have videos. I explain it all HERE:
(But people wont buy it)
Handlebars, bikes ergonomics engineered by Lucifer. He HATES free energy.
95% humans ars Lucifers kids, tares. They are not humans. They subscribe, perpetuate false reality stupidity in all things. They are cmputer cntrolled hive mind. But they dont know that.
Handlebar must be 29 or 30" 4average adult 5'9"
2 reasons. A front basket HANGING BY STRAPS FROM BARS is how 2transport up2 70lbs.
Bicycles are MADE 2COMMUTE STRAIGHT LINE &CARRY THINGS. PERIOD &safety, stability handling. Those are your parameters. Revolve around those. Period.
Bars wider then shoulders ONLY.
2 reasons.
This forms a stable TRIANGLE required4 stability handling especially once u add weight front basket.
Secondly, wide bars allow u carry wide objects like 5 2x4 wood resting on bars strapped 2waist. U can also carry things on long bars such as 5gallon buckets bar ends. Wide bar DRAMMATICALLY improve stability.
As does LOWERING LOWERING LOWERING thseat.
U must use heaviest ULTRA STRONG STEM.
Bicyclists can not be taught. Bcuz they are pharisees. Know it alls. Regarding seat height. Most humans are NOT HUMANS. They are poisonous cmputer programs.
Seat height.
Lol ypur knees can bend pedaling &efficientcy functions just fine low seat. Lol satan teaches place head 6 feet from pavement, give tiny bars so now u a sky scraper &taller they are thmore easily they fall. Lol. I taught people how 2sit on bike 1980"s. Graeme Obree built bike matching my specs &30 guys broke hour record using my specs.
Lol my seat is slammed down as LOW AS I CAN GET IT. This raises your bars essentially. So u NOT bent over but LOWER TO THGROUND 4ridiculous STABILITY &AERODYNAMICS.
U will realize 1.5 mph at 21mph top speed electric motor as such even tho u upright but head several inch lower..
WIDE BARZ LOW SEAT, SEAT FORWARD, BARS IN CLOSE 2U PERIOD.
Worlds best basic e bike bicycle design is used by me exclusively. This will not see production ¬1 person will ask 2c it in comments. Wide would they? They are pharisee tares. Computer animations. Know it alls.
Fact.
All E bikes are absolutely deploreable contraptions built by Lucifer boys.
All manufacturimg &non humans are controlled by Satans BEAST cmputer. That computer revolves around me as its epicentre arch enemy.
Meanwhile, all thworlds problems can be solved in thgarden. And 4godsakes sell your stable of 230 horses.
I find that bars make me late on my commutes... usually hours late.
🍺
it took me 5 mins to get it
Need to improve ya rhyme schemes
I see what you did there.
😂
As long as cities don't have decent bike lanes, "control" should be weighted x3.
When you have to "jump" between bike path surfaces switching every 3m you just need to be able to control your bike.
Therefore risers and flat are the only choices for me at the moment.
Your city too, huh? Houston is the worst! In a split second I have to choose between tore-up sidewalk, pot hole street, or congested lanes.
@@OanhSchlesinger Not practical for speed at all, but I find great joy in urban riding a hard tail mountain bike because of this. I'm in San Antonio and we're not a bike friendly city as well, so if I can't ride a neighborhood parallel to a busy street, I tend to ride sidewalks for safety, which I don't like to do.
My single speed is great because it's quick and simple. The mountain bike is slower, but handles potholes, speed bumps and jumps in and off curbs so easily.
Both of them have riser/flat bars for control. I even took a pair of my mountain bike bars (720mm wide) and put them on my single speed for much better control.
I don't do drops. Bullhorns are fun but twitchy. Never tried pursuit bars. I have a set of cruisers and it's an adjustment, they're 660mm wide, but I feel less in control because of the sweep on them. Would be good for hybrid bikes I think.
I have a flat bar Bianchi C Sport 1 and seems to be a good commuter bike. I’ve thought about buying a drop bar attachment to make the bike look a bit cooler and for rides where I want to use the drops.
I am trying to imagine a straight-away on my commute where I could get tucked in and really crank up to full speed. But going fast seems like it would immediately lead to catching a pothole that I was going too fast to notice/avoid and crushing my skull. I'm sure there are better maintained places where you can actually get up to speed safely, but the Netherlands has pretty strict immigration rules so I probably won't live there. :)
Yea I own a cruiser style and the different hand position is comfortable but doesn’t feel like I’d be able to brace as well if I hit something
I'm surprised this video didn't mention late night bars. Highly recommended
sweeping/cruiser handlebars get my vote every single time. The others put too much pressure on my hands and arms.
The Dutch/Danes/Swedes/Germans all go for the cruiser bars. The most comfortable and if you are just riding A-B it's the only way to go. Summer and winter my now twenty-year-old Batavus (look them up on the Dutch or Danish websites, different bikes for different markets) is still the bike of choice. A comfy Brookes saddle, 7 internal gears, ride like a gentleman!
@@robinarnold9857 Just note that it really only works for short-distance and is used in those countries because they ride short distances and have roads made for cycling. The only other place it's really used is West Coast America. Just because those European nations do that, it doesn't mean it works in America, England, or Chile, either for the roads, terrain/slope/surfaces, style of riding, or distances. Cruiser bars are some of the worst bars for most types of riding in most nations, and are the lowest. I would suggest drops or riser bars for pretty much everybody/every nation, depending on a few factors. Note that in this video, the drops won the test easily.
@@TheClassicWorld Thanks for the advice sunshine, I guess I'll just keep riding those short distances here in Denmark. Sure you know more about it.
@@TheClassicWorld i can't lie the cruiser is better for all round use as well as e bike application too. There is a reason the majority of bikes currently world wide use cruiser bars. Plus I am from England and have used all bar types and cruiser are my favourite by far especially being a young man (22) who's occupation is a bicycle courier.
@@TheClassicWorld I sometimes will ride 40-50 km with my Dutch bike. The idea these only work on short trips is pure propaganda! Much like how many sporty types LOVE to claim Dutch bikes can't work in hilly areas, when I live in one of the most hilly large cities in North America and my 60kg Dutch bike is just fine.
"I give them a 7" *writes down 8* :D
Came here to say this.
He really thought we wouldn't notice
But is he saying the wrong thing or is he writing it wrong?
Gah, you saw that too. We'll flip for the free bike.
Drop bars changed my life! I always thought the back pain I had with raised / flat bars would be worse with them but they are much better
The secret is getting a bike with drop bars one size or even two sizes down (smaller than your usual). That way the reach is shorter and you can be a bit upright at times and be aerodynamic at times. If you follow the suggested size then there’s no chance for you to be a bit upright as bikes with flat bars are meant for speed; hence intended to be leaning forward. Works well with me.
An upright riding position makes my back hurt, too. My guess is maybe sitting upright means all the bumps just go straight up my spine, with no give?
I too find the drops are most comfortable for riding to work - 4 miles, on road in traffic mostly designated bike lanes.
Drop bars for sure. The sheer number of different hand positions is worth it alone. Strong headwind? Get in the drops. Just cruising? Use the flat section. Tired after a long day? Hop on the hoods.
I don't feel confortable with any hand position but one on my Drop bars, because I can't reach the breaks
@@georgplaz They make smaller versions of the shifters, my girlfriend has them on her Specialized Roubaix
Yep. It's windy in Seattle and it makes a big difference being able to lean down. Makes the commute more comfortable and suck less.
@@georgplaz If you need to brake, you know you could just... move your hands? Just pay attention to your surroundings - it's not like you're going to have cars or potholes just appear out of nowhere. You can see where you'll need to have your hands ready to brake (intersection, blind corner, etc.) and put them into position ahead of time.
@@mylesleggette7520 If they're adjusted right, reaching them from the lower bars shouldn't be a problem anyway
I've been a bike commuter off and on for years now, and finally made the jump to commuting full time. I hesitate to call myself a cyclist, just a chick who rides a bike, but in an effort to change that I've been doing an abundance of research, and for every question I ever have it seems you're there with a high quality video giving me all the answers
To my knowledge, the dutch solution to any discomfort you might feel in your wrists/arms from riding your bike for a long time is just to ride hands free. Most of my friends do that anyway. Of course that's a lot easier in the Netherlands because most of our roads are flat and we have a lot of big and safe bicycle roads.
Imagine cycling hands free on a stroad💀
My commute includes a strode, railroad tracks, hills, lots of tree root bumps in the trail, etc. Hands free would get me killed in record time.
Damn I was hoping you would assess which handelbars are best in a tornado.
like riding behind a passing 18 wheeler? yea me too
Best 'Handelbars'? I would probably vote for the opening bars of The Messiah. :•)
I'm a noob in city cycling, using bicycle to get some groceries, commute etc. Just started due to this pandemic, so I haven't ride it for long distance to office yet, but daily I went around my home. When I first bought it, due to me being noob, and don't know much about sizing etc. My bike came with the flat bar, and it is not comfortable at all as my arm reach is just enough to hold it with my body need to be lowered. I thought the bike size is wrong for me, but can't change the bike already. It was not comfortable and I didn't enjoy riding it, I prefer to cycle upright, given I'm not in a rush or anything. Then one day I went for a dutch bike tour in my city, and omg the dutch bike is very comfortable, I wish my bike is like that. So I started to look in online shopping app handlebar similar to the Dutch bike, not many in my country. I just found one seller, which name the handle bar as 'M shape vintage style handlebar' and I just go for it. It is sort of the 'cruiser' handlebar as you name it in this video. It totally changed my experience and I look forward to cycle everyday now, even after 3 months cycling as of today. It made my ride so comfortable and relaxed. Of course I do not do racing so maybe that's why it's suitable for me 😁
Interesting, I am planning to buy one & your opinion will help me in choosing, thanks 👍
My commute is 6.85m/11k and I have gone with cruiser bars on my current bike and the one before. I found they gave me just that little extra height (1.5in/40mm) to sit more comfortably for that distance without at all impacting my riding speed, which gets up to 16mph/25kph for large stretches of the journey. Sitting like that also gives me a better view of the road, vehicles, traffic lights, etc. And the upright position also takes a lot of pressure off my hands, which usually become numb very quickly when I'm more leaning forwards. I honestly would not have a commuter bike now without cruiser bars
Agree, even more so if you ride an ebike.
Great discussion. The main thing I'd quibble with is your preference for upright rides. Sitting upright means that your spine will have to absorb a lot more bumpiness, so I find it a lot rougher on the back. I also think that shifting the center of mass forward helps with handling as it allows you to shift your weight more easily. Finally, and that may just be me making stuff up - but I have the feeling that being angled forward helps me get more power onto the pedal for a longer part of a revolution of the crank. All in all, this would shift the picture well in favor of drop bars and bullhorns.
Personally I find drops more comfortable. Less pressure on my bottom and better angle for my wrists.
Drops win in a city dwelling
@@bait3027 commuters win on urban cycling. That's why most bikes in the Netherlands have commuter handlebars and are commuter bikes.
Had to ride a bicycle to go to-and-from work with a laptop on my backpack. Used a commuter where i could strap my bag onto the "back seat" instead of carrying it in my back. It was a lot better than using a conventional road bike.
@@sepg5084 are you referring to “risers” as “commuters”?
@@bait3027 no, they look more like the bullhorn bars in reverse... I guess they fall into the cruise category here; some one in the comments referred to them as 'Dutch bars' 😁
Just want to note that, objectively speaking, drops are the worst of all bars on your hands when in the drops, but the hoods are the best, along with riser that are slightly curved for better position.
I rode bullhorns for seven years on my commutes and by chance got a narrow riser just to give it a try. It was a blast! Couldn't believe it'd be so comfy and responsive
Drops. Multiple hand positions. Best for wind. Energy efficiency. Getting through narrow spaces. Also the most natural hand position. Wide cruiser bars can be anti social on some bike racks.
Bullhorns are amazing, I love them because you can still get into the riser/flats handlebar position and actually using the "bullhorns" are awesome for areas where you don't need brakes like hills or long straights. I also don't find it too hard reaching the brakes when using the handlebars.
I am actually impressed at how well our hands adapt to a parallel bars configuration over a straight bar position ,since it isn't a naturally occurring position whereas a straight bar is, when I first started gripping stuff for workouts and biking.
I live in the suburbs without a car, albeit in suburbs with actually decent cycling infrastructure which I know is uncommon. I've been trying to wean off of depending on deliveries, as well as friends and family for lifts, and bought an e-bike with good carrying capacity, cruiser bars, and overall set up for an upright position, and I love it. Of course, it being an e-bike is also a big part of it, as it makes rides that would be chores a whole lot easier (even in hot weather, it's remarkable how much less tired and thirsty I'll be after getting groceries on my e-bike compared to the old bike), but the increase in comfort shouldn't be underestimated. It makes using the bike as a proper vehicle a breeze, as opposed to a sporting item or an occasional convenience. There are a lot of errands and activities that I used to put off doing on my bike, or pay to get delivered, or ask for help on, that I do gladly now.
I also don't think people should see cruiser bars as having "less control", at least not remarkably so. It's mostly just that there's a learning curve if they're not what you're used to. You can make tight turns just fine, but you might have to get used to a slightly different way to do it. Which, of course, if you're in a difficult cycling environment and risk getting run over, maybe you don't want that.
WOW! Your experience sounds amazing!
Q: how do you deal with thieves in doing what you do?
Aside from paying "protection money" that is.
@@garypotter5569 That's my biggest fear. Using at least two decent locks including an alarm lock, and covering it whenever I leave it out for longer than 15-20 minutes, has worked so far. It's also worth saying I haven't had to commute to work and leave the bike there all day or anything like that since the pandemic. Most thefts seem to occur in the city proper so I've been doing fine with my local errands in the burbs, although I have avoided a few places with really bad or no bike racks. I think it's partly down to being lucky in where I live. The real market for seasoned bike thieves is in Montreal proper, not in the burbs where 75% of people have garages, so I think we just don't get as many with all the tools out here.
Yep, cruiser bars & an upright comfortable riding position are a really good choice for ebikes. I live in a very hilly, windy area & before getting an ebike wouldn't consider anything but drop bars & a road race frame, but now comfort & visibility are what I need most cos the ebike makes hills & wind irrelevant. Have to say, I absolutely love ebikes!
I find drops pretty comfortable especially if you stick to the hood position as default and shift around from there based on need, and with the right frame fit and and handlebar positioning they can be much less aggressive than an actual racing bike. Control is probably the worst thing about them, but you can make do with them in any city situation especially in hood position, also they come in different widths so just use a wider bar (like for a gravel bike). Plus getting there faster (aka spending less time in the saddle) and with less effort expended by your legs is its own kind of comfort.
For bike commuting in an urban jungle, with a lot of variables in traffic, the most important factor is I would say control.
On a daily basis, you will have situations where all kind of opticals jumps in front of you, and you have to steer sharply and quickly. With better controls, you retain more solutions for any given situation.
Control is very important, I agree. A lot of it depends on your commute. If you're darting in and out of traffic and negotiating tight corners around moving vehicles, that's one thing to consider. If you're mostly riding on pathways or bike lanes, then I put comfort and practicality at the top of the list. Thanks for the great comment.
What type of urban jungle really matters too I think. Cities with lots of winding roads can be unpredictable because you can’t always see that far ahead of you.
Visibility is key
Flat bars with bar ends where hot in the 90ties and still a good option for me. They offer the same holding positions like the bull horn.
Currently I have drops but most of the time I am using the hoods for comfort and visibility. So a bullhorn or flat with bar ends would do it too.
yes this! ^
I used to have a flat bar with bar ends, and on a whim I added bar ends to the bar ends, making a sort of crash cage for my hands. Really saved my hands when i hit some ice and slid off the road. The left side of my handlebars hooked the corner of a building. Bar bent, but they saved my fingers from being crushed.
@@christophermorin9036 Yo dawg....
What's a bar end?
@@cubeofcheese5574 It's a handle you mount on the outer side of your grip, thus the end of your bar.
I personally use bmx bars on my commuter. They're even more upright and they're pretty cool looking.
Not just upright but have control chracteristics of riser and flat bars and come high in practical cos you have so much space to attach stuff to the bars and the cross bar. Alos they will break like all the other bars haha.
BMX or Ape Hangers - (Schwinn Sting-Ray)
Same, 1st mod on my road bike, like I am upset that he dont talk about them.
bmx bars is the way to go
That's a bloody awesome idea...I think that this is what I have been looking for...thanks for the comment.
I think a riser & adjustable stem , tilt them back & very comfortable.
THANK YOU!!! This is the single most helpful video/piece of media I've seen on the varieties of handlebars. You are my hero.
I went from risers that my bike came with to dropbars that were such a relief when cycling. I did add a riser thing on the stem that provided more area to put things, but I'll clamp on things right over the corked area.
I have 6 types of handlebars and I like all of them. Changing them is a 2-minute job, because I ride without brakes.
Aero bars: for a windy commute they are amazing. Some days I don't think I would have got to work if I'd been stuck in the upright position!
Exactly! I care less about speed than effort - and on a windy day im so glad to have deep track bars
I started on drops but had issues bought a flat bar got used to it. Went back to a drop bar. Now I alternate between them all
No handlebars on my favorite bike: center steered recumbent:
comfort 9
speed 12 (at least two steps faster than a racing bike)
control 8 I can rescue a breakout drifting rear wheel, but you need to learn first, tight cornering possible at high and low speed, low speed down to walking pace is no problem
practicality n/a as you have to put your stuff elsewhere on your bike
looks 10
fun 10
vision 8 (forward better than anything else, behind might be difficult)
Safety 7, low height for falling, feet first vs head first, very good vision, down for pollution being higher down low and low tide height might occasionally lack overview
What they are missing is upper body workout
Great content from your video, enjoyed it, greetings from Germany
I've been through most all of these and I always return to...wait for it...flat / short rise bars.
I like drop bars on my commuter. My commute is very long and not really through an urban environment, so the extra speed and improved leverage comes in handy.
You missed touring bars / butterfly bars. I've setup two of my friends with touring bars for their commuter bikes. Upright, multiple hand positions, adjustable angles. I also like low-rise flat bars with horns added on to the end like a 90's mountain bike. The horns give you an outside hand position to take pressure off your wrists on longer rides without sacrificing control.
I agree on the butterfly bars........a MAJOR oversight of the alternatives discussed in this video. They are ugly as sin, but I think they might win out if they were put through his scoring evaluation.
Drop bars are so awesome to work with. It takes time to settle into it but it is worth the try.
Also very easy to sneak past traffic and fit the bike inside narrower corridors. But also makes quick work of breaking through the wind.
Pro for the riser, flat, and cruiser bars: Mtb-Shift levers and brake levers are a lot cheaper than brifters for drop bars.
Personally, I’ve only ever had a bike with cruiser handlebars. I’ve always enjoyed them quite a bit, and honestly I don’t see any compelling reasons to switch at this point. That being said, it was cool to get to listen to your perspectives on other types of handlebars and how they compare to what I use :)
You have the best kind, unless your a racer, why would you switch?
There are other channels that somehow think using road bikes with drop bars are better for commuting than the actual commuter bikes (that they never even showed.)GCN - if you’re still wondering.
I live and decided to get into cycling but I had no idea there were so many bike options. I went to google and immediately got overwhelmed. Thanks for your channel!
I find flat bars with short bar ends are the best for commuting, but I like the look of drops so I 'converted' my flat bars to look like drops by using 2 U shaped pipes that you get supplied with washing machines to fit the pipe in the sink and covered with bar tape and fixed to my bar ends. Looks absolutely superb (to me!) and weighs next to nothing.
I love drop bars.
When the middle position that has the breaks is at a comfortable space, you have a faster position when you grab down, and a very comfortable Position when you grab the flat bar❤️
All my commuter bikes of the last 50 years have had cruiser handlebars with the exception of my Brompton folding bike. For commuting or casual riding at lower speeds I like to be upright so I find them the most comfortable plus control is important in traffic when you don't have a bike lane.
Dropbars are 100% on the bottom of the list. If your backpack has a laptop, you want to sit upright, for comfort and so your shirt doesn't get wrinkled.
Got the cruiser bars yesterday and i love it. Yes i love it.. chill and comfort good for daily use
Yesterday, I had a long, relatively challenging ride using my 76 year old body and a newish urban commuter, a Pure Rides 58’x 225 tires. I couldn’t easily fall asleep because my scoliosis twisted body (from an old job) was so positively energized.
Cruiser Handle bars, a proper length foot/seat setting and good brakes make the difference. I especially like my cruiser handlebar’s leather on the wider hand grips. My cruiser bars are more upright than your video example and better for me. They are a Dutch influenced design from California.
Pain = No Gain. Perfect is just perfect. Stayed for the whole video. Waiting for your visit to the US Virgin Islands.🇻🇮
Well, actually "cruiser bars" didn't sound weird until you pointed out that it sounded weird. Thanks for the uploads...LOVE the channel.
I think you nailed it with your weighted scores. Look at what the Dutch are using since they use their bike A LOT more than North Americans. Based on the videos I've seen they almost all use the cruiser style bars.
Remember Netherlands is very flat, and their city bikes are designed with that in mind.
But having said that I also prefer swept back bars for position and comfort.
I am an old timer and control freak. So, of course, flats are my favs.
Flat with aerobar. Aerobar allows me to rest on my arm.
@@othmanskn the author makes some mockery on aero... i ve seen bike packing travellers going far... continental distances, using aero. it improves biomechanics also, not only aerodynamics.
I'm a newb (literally...just learned to ride in November). I have a crap, used Walmart mountain bike that I swapped out stuff to make it fit me. I kept the original riser handlebar, but added a taller quill stem to make me more upright and then adjusted the handlebars to be closer to me. Changed the rock hard seat to a comfort seat (not too wide) and recently swapped to flat mountain bike pedals (no screw studs). It may look goofy riding upright on a mountain bike, but it works for learning on. I have made huge strides in my riding confidence, so the changes made a differencr quickly.
I already have my next bike on order, a Priority Classic Plus Gotham (all their bikes have a Gates Carbon belt drive), so it's built mainly for commuting but casual riding. I kinda think super wide comfort bars look goofy and take up space when navigating tight areas. I have not ridden a bike with with those yet, so my opinion may change. I want a happy medium between comfort and speed, hence why I chose the Gotham which has a riser handlebar and quill stem. Keeps everything fully adjustable as needs change.
Flats plus bar ends are my choice for my urban bike.
Your commentary cracked my sh*t up. I've been blaming my handlebars for discomfort while I ride, but now I'm thinking it's something else. Great video!
where do you live? this urban landscape is beautiful. and why were the streets empty?
Probably empty because of covid lockdowns
That's Calgary Canada
@@Voltaire321 Lance Storm would be proud
Could be a Sunday?!
Because everyone should stay home because of Covid??
I'm currently planning to buy a bike. This video really helped me. Fantastic video, thank you.
I don't go very far but the things I value the most are stability (which for me means I want to be low) and confidence on the road (which means I want to be fast like the cars when I need to), so I can't imagine giving up my drops!
I wasn't so sure I'd be so steadfast in my decision until I watched this, but now I'm a lot more confident that I really don't want to switch for a while to be sure. I'm sure!
I hope newbies will visit a good bike shop, ride different bikes, and get the advice of a specialist on getting a bike which fits them. Bike fit is a function of frame geometry (angles and lengths), stem length and angle, seat height and horizontal distance relative to the pedals and handlebars, etc. The fit, comfort and control of a bike is a synergistic effect of the combination of these factors. Buying a bike and then changing the handlebars to one of those recommended by your arbitrarily numerified suggestions, or buying a bike because it comes with the handlebars suggested, is less likely to result in a satisfactory outcome than riding a number of different bikes to see what feels good and getting good advice from someone trained in bike fit issues.
Drop bars have the advantage, along with bullhorn bars, of providing a neutral hand provision, that is, palm plane parallel with the sagittal plane (which divides the body into left and right halves.) If you stand in a relaxed position with your hands at your sides, your palms facing your thighs, your hands are in a neutral position. With drop bars, your hands rest easily on the brake hoods, putting minimal stress on your hands' and arms' joints.
With drop bars, there is nothing to prevent us from selecting or setting up a bike with a geometry raising the drop bars well above the common geometry we see for racing bikes, so that the "sitting up" or "Dutch" or "comfort" position is available. Twenty to 30 years ago a number of the large bike manufacturers produced bikes on this model. Maybe it didn't look cool enough once mountain bikes gained the publicity stage. As an oldster with reduced flexibility and neck issues, I've added taller (but shorter horizontally) stems on both my (traditional frame) road bike and my touring bike, and they work well. The 4 or 5 hand positions available with drop bars serve comfort and control well for those riding several hours or more a day (long distance tourers and long distance racers) as well as those of us who have arthritis for whom a half-hour of riding with the pronated hands required by straight bars is difficult and, if repeated daily for decades, potentially deforming and debilitating.
In terms of commuting, especially on busier two-direction bike lanes/trails but also with motor vehicle and pedestrian traffic, long flat/riser bars and cruiser bars have always worried me due to the greater risk for them to contact something fixed or moving the opposite direction (like another rider) on one side of the bike, applying a big force on that end, thus turning the wheel sharply and resulting in an "over the handlebars" or sideways dive, potentially a life-changing/ending experience. Narrower bars (classic drop bars for example, in the 40 cm width range) result in reducing the chance of such contact and less applied force and turning moment if it happens. As for control, the longer the lever arm between hand and steerer axis, the greater leverage can be exerted, but at the cost of needing greater distance travel by the hands. We might need great leverage with a mountain bike on obstacles like ruts, roots and rocks trying to twist our front wheel (hence my 60 cm mountain bike flat bars) but we don't tend to need big leverage while commuting on paved or crushed rock trails. The smaller the hand/arm extension flexion needed (assuming adequate force can be applied), the faster the turning. The quickest turning bike (assuming an attentive rider leaning at the appropriate time) I ever saw was a road bike equipped with 30-cm long flat bars, because the hand motions needed were so small.
What about that standard of the 60's and 70's, the monkey bar (or in motorcycle parlance, "ape hanger"), most commonly associated with the Schwinn Sting-Ray, and later copied for generic kids' bikes? I put Sting-Ray handlebars on my 24"- wheeled Western Auto cruiser in about 1965, and it looked cool and became as comfortable as bikes come, because there was no body weight compressing your hands or wrists. You could stand up on the pedals and not have to bend over to keep the bars close to the body where you could exert force on them, because the handgrips were at hip-level. However, they slowed you down due to the non-aero upright position, which led me to install drop bars on the same bike a couple years later, which speeded up my riding very noticeably.
finally someone gets it! drop bars are the best for commuting and touring. just get them higher and closer so that the drops feel comfortable.
i use the drops the most, the hooks are for descending, the hoods are when i need to react to unpredictable road users, and the flats are for climbing or eating snacks/drinking coffee
How about the butterfly handlebars?
Agree.
Please review them and update this good video ヽ(♡‿♡)ノ
Mark Beaumont broke the world record of travelling around the world with these handlebars back in 2004 on a £2,500 bike (£3,800 in 2019). It was a touring type bike for extremely long distances, of course, and custom.
Cast into shape bars.
2 piece bars.
The flag pole.
The handgrips that make motor sounds.
CB radio mounts so you can contact the truck drivers.
How are you going to mount the 6 mirrors on those things?
I've had been working with bike commuting for the last two years, using cruiser handlebars. Last month my bike got some problems and I've been commuting with a friend's bike, wich have riser handle bars. Today I worked with my cruiser handlebar bike and can tell that riser bars are a lot more useful, but could be more "aggressive ", so I decided to change for flat 600mm handle bars. Among car traffic it can be a problem a large handlebar like cruiser.
I find it fascinating that you included cruiser handlebars, but not a mount for the handlebars where you can change the angle. I have riser handlebars that allow for a way more upright position, just because I can rotate them up by up to 60°. That also makes them easier to hold on to on steep inclines.
If you’re a seasoned rider converting an older bike to a commuter is a great idea.
I have an early 90’s Schwinn Paramount. I stripped off the old component’s and replaced them with some used Dura-Ace 7800.
I replaced the wheels with 25 mm DT Swiss Wheels with DT Swiss hubs. I added a riser stem with 4 deg rise and added a brooks B-17 saddle. I budgeted the cost over a year. I also use fairly low pressure modern tires. I basically changed everything out except the frame, BB and headset.
So for about $800 to rebuild an old classic frame I was rarely riding I have a far better commuter bike than I could purchase today for $800.
I find that drops do not let me get to my breaks soon enough, so I vote for cruisers as I can have my hands on the breaks at all times, which is needed in a city.
I have cruiser handlebars BUT I bought some bar ends and added them towards the middle of the bars to create faux bullhorns. I LOVE this setup. I can get into an aggressive position with the ""bullhorn"" or relax with the cruiser. Admittedly I only have room for this setup because I ride a single speed with coaster brakes so I have zero hardware on my bars.
I've commuted on risers, bullhorns, and drops. This is a really good summary of all these types.
Personally, I like bullhorns and drops for climbing because it puts more weight on the front while out of the saddle. It also matters how fast you're going, if you are not going above 15 mph (~22 kph) it makes more sense to prioritize comfort and control with flat bars or risers, and it's easier to use with barmits in the winter.
Drop bars all the way, i like the opptions in hand positions and wrist location
I take my drop-bars, and flip them around so that instead of dropping down, they RISE UP. I then hold onto the raised parts. I also move the hand brakes to these raised parts of the handlebars.
That's horrific. Glad it works for you though...
Wide flats (700mm) for me. Aggressive, comfort, and control. On a 1×7 Hybrid Gravel/Commuter 700×42. This thing shreds! I also just received my very first Bullhorn bar for my vintage Panasonic single speed that also shreds. I cant wait to wake up early and build my cockpit tom morn! Lol
Great video.
One thing I would add is that everyone's commute is different and not all commutes are completely urban. For example on my route to work I go 20km, the first 10km is almost rural with low traffic and only minor junctions. It's only the second half which is urban but even then I've found a good low traffic route.
To that end, the weighting for each category is really going to depend on the commute as much as the rider.
I also think the video should have been called best handle bars for urban riding :)
Great summary. My preference is dropbars, due to my need for speed and variety of positions. I have neck and shoulder issues that tend to make themselves present on longer rides, and being able to shift hand positions throughout has been a huge benefit. I just came across your channel and I’m already 4 videos deep and looking forward to making my way through the back catalogue. Long live the daily bike commute!
I think an important column on the chart would be visibility. For example I feel that the best for me would be drop bars but for commuting they are the worst because I can't mount a mirror on them and it's hardest to turn my head around to see incoming traffic when I need to overtake cars stopped on the road.
Flat bars/risers would be the best to mound a mirror on and wile cruiser bars won't be the best for mirrors, you can turn you head easiest to look around.
Stem angle and length both play a huge role in making risers and flats closer to the comfort of Cruiser (aka. Café)
I also love having a quill stem, so I can change my mind with a twist of the allen key.
My last bike was a Schwinn Continental (from the 70’s), which was a drop handle 10-speed. I just got a bike which solves several dilemmas, since it’s an e-bike (Velotric Discover 2). It has the cruiser bars, but with the addition of pedal assist, you can increase the speed while riding comfortably.
Definitely a different world today.
This video was actually very helpful. The first bike I've ever had in my adult life, and by extension the first I've ridden in years, has riser bars. They're solid but looking at this really shows their limitations. Of course I've only had the bike for a few days now so I'm probably the limiting factor here haha
Give it some time and let us know how things go.
Man listen:
If you have to commute, you want to take account of comfort, practicality and longevity of the bike rather than speed. All you need to know how Dutch people commute to work by bike.
Their bicycles are the best:
- cruiser handlebar;
- wide and comfortable seat;
- upright riding;
- solid components to last long with little to none maintenance;
- fenders for when it rains;
- compact breaking and gears system (go check the video about bicycles of Not Just Bikes);
- boxes for when you have to carry goods (I find this very important especially in summer, when you tend to sweat a lot and a backpack would result annoying);
- a crappy bike that not even unlocked someone would think of stealing it.
I enjoy drop bars, ever since I got bullhorns they became my go to bars for riding or racing.
What do you prefer about the bull horns ?
@@771shadowolf I can gain more traction off the start or at a stop. There's 3 ways to position yourhands so more then 2 options. Style does matter lol. I ride Fixation bullhorns black set.
A road bike with relaxed geometry can solve the body position issue quite easily while maintaining the drop handlebar option. Most road bikes are race or endurance which are quite aggressive positions but almost every brand has a relaxed geometry road bike too. Or go one step further and get a gravel bike which is even more relaxed. Put 30-32 mm road tires on and you have a fantastic commuter.
I'd add winds on commute route as a deciding factor. I'm in a valley so those winds get going and you want an option to quickly switch to a more aerodynamic posture into a headwind.
I've considered getting bullhorns made up that are flats with bits attatched to the end.
You can buy little bullhorn extensions that clamp on for pretty cheap. Adding tri bars is more comfortable and more aerodynamic though.
I have my levers on both ends of my bullhorn handelbar. Not the most comfort handlebar, that is 100% right, but not such a low control, as you described, by no means . Actually, I feel, under the high speed that this configuration allows, one of the nicest riding experience when commuting at medium to high speeds.
I love drop bars for hand placement and gear changing and the 2 ways to brake. I just wish the adjustable bar would raise higher. I don't always want speed and wish I could raise them up.
Change your stem to a higher sloped one for $40
Don't want to get too picky as I generally agree with your findings but I think risers and to a lesser extent flats should have been rated higher for comfort and control or maybe the other bars should have been lower.
If your commute is bumpy, curvy, and lower speed. Choose risers.
If your commute has a lot of steep hills, choose bullhorns.
If your commute has long flat sections or steady elevation gain, Choose drops.
It all depends on what makes your daily rides more comfortable.
Best comment so far
honestly, i feel like you havnt riden drop bars very much, I have a mountain bike and a road bike with drop bars, and its actually pretty comfortable on the drop bars. id like to note that I'm not particularly flexible but I can still get pretty areo.
It you do long commutes, you want cruiser bars. It's worth the comfort.
I had to switch to cruiser bar and have no regrets. E bike daily commute is 5 miles each way. True you catch air, but I’ve got a slight downhill run a mile long and 28 to 30 mph is easy. I like my head over spine so I don’t have to use neck muscles so much. Also an extender got me even more upright. 3000 miles this way. Perfect for my 70 yr old body. I can make the bike dance.
Hi-rise bars!
I have nerve damage from a misspent youth on road bikes. I can't ride far with any pressure on my hands.
So I like bars that let me sit more upright than cruiser bars. if I had a muscle bike (like a Stingray with larger wheels) that would be perfect.
Yeah, I have 10 inch ape hangers on a bike and they're comfy.
Likely others have also added this... But as an "injured cyclist" none of your bar options that you reviewed work for my shoulder injuries. I needed a bar that not only brought the grip area closer but also needed a "wrists in" position (Which the good folks at Rivendell call Wrist Nirvana). The bar I ended up going with was Soma Oxford. But there are some similar ones from Nitto and Velo Orange. Some people call these Mary Poppin bars or Dutch Bars or Albatross Bars (Like Nitto). Etc. Thanks for the great Urban Content!
Hight differences in flatbars and riser-bars can be compensated by the angle of the "stem"?
A riser bar can also be rotated forward or backwards to direct sweep.
I like mounting bar ends inside the brake levers on flat or riser handlebars. Gets you into an aerodynamic yet relaxed position when you want, and gives you more bike control than traditional tri or time-trial bars. Best of both worlds.
I ride bulls on a ss and it's awesome. Not necessarily recommended for casual riders or novice. Once you get a few hundred miles under your belt it's hard to beat though.
Planning to change from a loopbar to a bullhorn as I am more comfortable in a forward position. I have a long torso but I am not necessarily tall so Im thibking between buying a forward attachment for my loopbar so I could rest on it or just buying a Bullhorn.
My breaks and shift levers are standard Ltwoo ones and dont have budget to change it for now but might do so in the next few months so curious of your thoughts and experience in your setup:>
Totally a drop bar guy. Think they are comfortable. For the most part. However rising everyday. And riding a bit aggressively some times I find my wrists developing tendinitis. Actually pretty painful and uncomfortable.
I want to see/ and or make a drop bar set with Bull horn extensions coming out the sides. Very cool.
A really wide grip gravel drop set looks very comfortable too if your into drops.
Also I think it’s canyon that created a really cool bar set with a double upper and lower cross member.
Surly Moloko Bar: 10 - 10 - 10 -10 - 11
I'd also add that while I love drop bars, the advantage to using bars that use MTB shifters and brakes is that the parts are usually cheaper and can be adjusted easier.
Love those bars, the only drawback for those bars is cost, and they not so good for accessing narrow places. I think there are no perfect bars, but Moloko and jones H are close to perfection.
Thanks for mentioning Tim Krabbe! Even if you are not into reading, get a copy. It is fantastic.
There's one step beyond cruiser bars. They're called parallel handlebars - and I find them most comfortable of all types. By far.
There are so many styles of bars, more than you’ve been able to cover here. And then within those styles there’s so much variation. What’s good for one body may be bad for another. And then there’s the question of what kind of commute you have - inner city with cars and trucks or quiet country roads with deer and tractors. People are incredulous when they hear that I ride through Swedish winters on a drop bar bike, but to me that’s perfect.
I was hoping for a bit more discussion on rise and sweep for riser bars, since there are a number of options now, and the few degrees of sweep does help with wrist pain. In any case, great discussion! 👍
In my city I’m constantly fighting for my life commuting on a bike, so bars that don’t have your hands placed on breaks at all times is an instant no. I’m currently using risers but I’d like to switch to a dropdown
It should be noted that comfort is subjective & if you've got a strong back anyway then dropped bars or bull horns might be a more comfortable position.
It certainly takes less effort to ride on a commuting road bike than a dutch bike, it's not just about speed.
Thanks, that is very helpfull. As a dutchman I grew up with cruiser bars and just bought a bike with a riser bar. I don't know if I ever get used to them and maybe you just convinced me to change my handlebars.
This video is very informative as I am planning to change from drop bar due to back and neck problems. Thank you
Just want to say that I get lower back problems, but find that I have no problem with different height bars - even aero bars are okay. Back problems are completely individual!
Your video was very helpful in making my decision . I have been riding a mountain bike with flat bars . And changed to riser bars for comfort. But I have discovered I like going fast for a workout . So I am buying a road bike with drop bars . Lighter and faster .
drops are more comfortable to me they looks cool too x)
Drops every day of the week and twice on Sunday
Likewise, in the crouch position with hands on the bottom bar felt kind of awkward at first but cuts through the wind nicely. I had to get used to the control & braking as well. Now it’s easy after much practice.
No "Dutch" bars? I have just changed both of my bikes from risers to Dutch and I find them superior in control and comfort.
Bars make a huge difference in comfort
dutch fits under cruisers
@@muhilan8540 You my friend have never ridden a Dutch bike! While they share some similarities, there are massive differences that put them into a category all their own. I own two Dutch bikes and a standard American cruiser. The difference is like comparing cruiser to racing bars.
you can put your hands int the middle next to the stem on riser or flat bars, heck even on cruiser bars. It will lower your wind resistance a little bit although it's not as easy to steer. . I sometimes put tape on mine for that purpose.