Looked like Log Cabins which, when 6-8 foot, was always a challenge to surf, get done with the session and out of the water without having shed blood or dinged up my board. My late wife and I lived in the Ke-Iki-Hale apartments right there at Logs so I surfed it a lot. I wonder if those apartments are still there. They were old back in 1980-82 when I was there. Anyway, on the N. Shore the spookiest, shallow reefs for me were Log Cabins, Boneyards (the left at Sunset, but it didn't break too often}, Val's Reef inside at Sunset Beach (one of the most seriously injured surfers I saw at the Shore was torn up on Val's reef) and Pipeline. I sure got hammered on the reef at Pipe. It's sure shallow. NW Shore's most crazy shallow, dangerous break that I used to surf a lot was Mokuleia which is only rideable at high and medium tide. During low tide the inside reef, where the wave really bowled up and got hollow, was exposed. That inside reef there was so shallow I had to flip my board upside down just to paddle out so the fin wouldn't stick in the reef. It would scratch wax off the deck of my board on the paddle out. On the plus side, almost no one else used to surf that break because of the shallow inside reef, the big sharks out in the takeoff zone and the long paddle out to the takeoff zone. I'd always see a lot of folks surfing to my north at the left called Daystar, but Mok just about never got crowded. On the East Shore it was Kahuku AKA Golf Course on a swell over 15 foot was pretty exciting with it's weird backwash and shallow reef. On the West Shore there was a break called Tracks that was challenging because of the big, old concrete things that looked like giant jacks which were placed in the break to stop Japanese landing craft in WWII. Tracks was a great wave, but my friends on the shore never wanted to go there with me. Serious locals. I made friends with them though. I sure caught a lot of great waves on Oahu and Kauai. I sure got my butt beat in some hairy wipeouts on big waves too. Great memories.
Looks like inner Log cabins. Used to rent a house right in front there but almost bought the farm a few times ;-). It’s actually safer on bigger days when you ride the second reef. The other really dicey nearby spot is the aptly named bone yards (the left break just left of sunset point).
Beautiful waves and scenery, man one of these days i want to go to Hawaii and surf. So Cal is sweet and ive surfed it for past 30 years but everyone knows it can’t beat this type of set up.
I lived on Guam in the late 1960s. There were beautiful waves breaking all around the island, but almost everywhere and reefs that made surfing or body durging impossible.
That’s cap. I was on Guam there’s only two breaks. Rick’s reef which is like a soft ala Moana and hagatna boat basin which is full of chelu-sers and kooks boogie boarding. And both hardly ever very rarely break.
yo sick! tried surf this place roiding out one time on a hand me down 7.2 akerman, remember trying the sets and made the drop then ate so much shit hahaha
damn what a paradise, crazy the way the reef is so close to shore, so you're riding a reef break that will suddenly turn into a big shore dump lol, do people surf these spots when it's bigger?
I do, not exactly the same but pretty similar. The break is completely exposed on lower tide. Surfed it up to 6 ft but you often lose fins, boards and wear a padded wetsuit, less holes in your body.
@@ConD00R why not though, wouldn't it help with having to worry about your feet getting messed up by the reef? or is it a comfortability issue? I'm asking cause i just got back into surfing, and I'm wondering if it is worth it when having to walk out at Trestles (best spot in my area)
Looked like Log Cabins which, when 6-8 foot, was always a challenge to surf, get done with the session and out of the water without having shed blood or dinged up my board. My late wife and I lived in the Ke-Iki-Hale apartments right there at Logs so I surfed it a lot. I wonder if those apartments are still there. They were old back in 1980-82 when I was there. Anyway, on the N. Shore the spookiest, shallow reefs for me were Log Cabins, Boneyards (the left at Sunset, but it didn't break too often}, Val's Reef inside at Sunset Beach (one of the most seriously injured surfers I saw at the Shore was torn up on Val's reef) and Pipeline. I sure got hammered on the reef at Pipe. It's sure shallow. NW Shore's most crazy shallow, dangerous break that I used to surf a lot was Mokuleia which is only rideable at high and medium tide. During low tide the inside reef, where the wave really bowled up and got hollow, was exposed. That inside reef there was so shallow I had to flip my board upside down just to paddle out so the fin wouldn't stick in the reef. It would scratch wax off the deck of my board on the paddle out. On the plus side, almost no one else used to surf that break because of the shallow inside reef, the big sharks out in the takeoff zone and the long paddle out to the takeoff zone. I'd always see a lot of folks surfing to my north at the left called Daystar, but Mok just about never got crowded. On the East Shore it was Kahuku AKA Golf Course on a swell over 15 foot was pretty exciting with it's weird backwash and shallow reef. On the West Shore there was a break called Tracks that was challenging because of the big, old concrete things that looked like giant jacks which were placed in the break to stop Japanese landing craft in WWII. Tracks was a great wave, but my friends on the shore never wanted to go there with me. Serious locals. I made friends with them though. I sure caught a lot of great waves on Oahu and Kauai. I sure got my butt beat in some hairy wipeouts on big waves too. Great memories.
ya logs is the sketchiest i'd say. 🤙🤙
Looks like inner Log cabins. Used to rent a house right in front there but almost bought the farm a few times ;-). It’s actually safer on bigger days when you ride the second reef.
The other really dicey nearby spot is the aptly named bone yards (the left break just left of sunset point).
the yard is sketch haha thanks for the comment 🤙🏽
Beautiful waves and scenery, man one of these days i want to go to Hawaii and surf. So Cal is sweet and ive surfed it for past 30 years but everyone knows it can’t beat this type of set up.
cali not bad
end section keepin' you on your toes brah!!!!!!
for sure haha
Damn brah, shallow, shallow, shallow. As always thanks for the stoke. 🤙
Thanks for watching
I lived on Guam in the late 1960s. There were beautiful waves breaking all around the island, but almost everywhere and reefs that made surfing or body durging impossible.
reef cuts are worth it gotta try em
@@ConD00R Not on Guam.
That’s cap. I was on Guam there’s only two breaks. Rick’s reef which is like a soft ala Moana and hagatna boat basin which is full of chelu-sers and kooks boogie boarding. And both hardly ever very rarely break.
16:35 I cringed in my chair from the shallow, riff great vid
thank you
Great content, as always!
thanks!
I like how you recap your rides at the end of the viddie.
Thanks !
Reminds me of long lost pohoiki on big island. Toothy at the end .
yea unfortunate loss
No wonder Koa is petrified of that reef! 😳 …
we all are hahaha
Dude your board is so sick !!! 💪🏼
ya this one goes
Always on point with the sick uploads
Thank you
No joke. Ke Iki beach is where two tourists died just two weeks ago. Sucked right off the beach even.😮
ya sketch
Damn!! So sick 🤘🏽
thank you
Great videos!
Thank you
super sick
thank you
Looks like a fun little right. Bit like the one i was surfing today. Only ankle deep and 4-5 ft... Slow though.
super slow
yo sick! tried surf this place roiding out one time on a hand me down 7.2 akerman, remember trying the sets and made the drop then ate so much shit hahaha
haha so sick
I think that's the most I have seen you work for the least reward.
yup haha
I miss Hawaii so much 😔
ya im lucky
damn what a paradise, crazy the way the reef is so close to shore, so you're riding a reef break that will suddenly turn into a big shore dump lol, do people surf these spots when it's bigger?
I do, not exactly the same but pretty similar. The break is completely exposed on lower tide. Surfed it up to 6 ft but you often lose fins, boards and wear a padded wetsuit, less holes in your body.
yea they hold big size
Good
thank
ripping brah
thank you
Where I live the reef is like this
nice
Crazy I never see anybody with those old lost stickers on the nose of their board anymore
making a come back
Love the North Shore, especially in January.
Thank you
Dude this is incredible. Where do you find all of these places?
since its an island i'm guessing you can just walk around or get a jetski
he’s lives on the north shore
thanks it's just home
@@ConD00R I've surfed longboard before but it's so annoying. I'm kinda new, but I've surfed like 3 times. Should I get a fishtail?
@@8sp3ct not yet stick to the basics and small soft waves for quite a while and just have fun
fly me out
Next jaws swell.
Sure you know where the knuckles are. Any other spots rideable ? 🤙🏼
ya little pulses here and there
what are the dimensions of your board ?
6'4" and idk
hope not crowded tomorrow
2big
when u fall off what do u do? cover ur head with ur arms orsomething?
i should haha
Starfish enterprise technique, also known as magic carpet stance. Spread 'em wide and keep your head up 😂
@@papapetad hahahaha
what camera do you use?
gpro
Is it just me or did you put your shirt on backwards? Lol
it's just you hahaha
@@ConD00R haha i thought i saw the tag print on the front 🤣😂
its lie 1ft hahaha what a kook
Thanks man your videos are inspiring!
Is this pipe? I can’t see the land well enough to tell with the wide angle. It’s been a while since I was there.
close
This is so boring ;-)
thanks!!
What was the water temp like
78 ish
is it not tempting to wear booties out there?
not at all haha
@@ConD00R why not though, wouldn't it help with having to worry about your feet getting messed up by the reef? or is it a comfortability issue? I'm asking cause i just got back into surfing, and I'm wondering if it is worth it when having to walk out at Trestles (best spot in my area)