i took the blower motor out of a old trailer and its from 1974 i washed it with water hose waited for it to dry then oiled it wired it up to a exstenion cord and now its a great shop fan the best shop fan iv ever owned
I do the same with box fans, electrical engineering is not a strong suit at our local college, they must have mommy and daddy’s money because they throw them out if they get a bit dirty 🤷♂️
This fan works very well. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I replaced my old fan as our radon levels began to spike. When I remove the old fan water poured out of the fan. Must have entered in through the out spout. Replaced with this unit and levels dropped a bit but still over 4.0.Did some more digging and found that we had a small hole under our waste pipe that was allowing some water and radon in.Patched the hole and the levels dropped almost overnight.I really would recommend the radon sensor. It gives real time readings. Without it we would have never known that we had this issue.
I about had a heart attack when the blower motor in my 24-year old Interthem/Nordyne started intermittently screeching this morning while getting ready for work, and after stressing quite a bit over the course of the day followed by some clean up and your video this evening, I quickly and easily found the aluminum oil hole plugs and managed to throw a little Zoom Spout (I actually had a bottle lying around - LOL) in each... without even pulling the blower. Major props for helping yet ANOTHER (quite thankful) DIY'er. ;)
Just replaced the outside fan motor in our home HVAC system from 1978, it was the EXACT same Emerson motor in your video and was the original motor. It was still working, but the bearings were starting to get noisy. I kept it oiled the 20 years we've owned this house along with the indoor blower motor which is still running just fine. The system is a Whirlpool "green wedge" HVAC system and I've never had to call anyone to service it. I keep the motors oiled and replace the caps and relays every 7 to 8 years. No electronics to worry about, and we're still using the original White-Rodgers thermostat. The system gets a good workout here in FL and I'm not replacing it, not ever. Any part that goes out that I can't replace I'll just have a serviceman do it and if the R22 gets out, I'll use AC77.
Thank you SO MUCH for your video. My Brother owns a large HVAC Company, and refuses to help me. With your & other videos, you've helped me save my furnace!
Thank you! This really helped me. I had no idea where the oil holes were, the manual for the McQuay HiLine says to oil it every 6 months, but it doesn't say where!
Great video -- When I pull out the blower assembly - I'll also take out the fan motor (from the blower assembly) - then clean the blower wheel, assembly, and motor. Perfect time and it only takes 10-15 min and this greatly improves the blower efficiency.
I have several ZoomSpouts, they have basically 10 wt oil in them when new. I have a new one, one with 20w50, & one with 90% 30wt & 10% STP. Various ages of motors use different viscosity of oil to protect them for long periods. Just me, maybe, but I service a lot of older stuff, and it hangs in there fine, if taken care of. Michael in Colorado.
I loved this. "Should oil everything under the sun". Guess that'll do. I was at the lasses house and she was complaining that's her heater was squeaking like mad. And I just said it needs some 3-1. But then I looked at the thing and needed some help navigating . Thanks for the laugh along the way my friend
Thanks for the help! After coming home from picking up my wife after she hit a deer and it tore up her car really good, we smelled something burning in the house. The 1st thing I thought of was the furnace. Sure enough, the blower wasn't turning. I cut the power immediately. After cleaning the deer (I DO have my priorities - lol), I tackled the blower motor but could not remember where to oil it or if it was sealed. I have replaced several of these but it's been a while. Again, thanks for the simple reminder!
Thanks Gary, you were very helpful to jump start me troubleshooting. Yes it is an old furnace. About a week ago, an electrical type of burning smell came up to the 2nd floor bedroom, late at night. Got worry about a fire. Went to the basement first to check the furnace. Could not smell burning, but heard an electrical humming and buzzing before the fan kicked in. Outside belt drive motor, no capacitor. The best is that I got a brand new motor, same specs on Easter Sunday.Owner of “James Electric & Motors” said I am open 24/7 and 365 days. Got motor and put new. Works like a charm! No more smell, humming and buzzing. No more erratic start and stop. Nice and quiet now. When I pulled the old motor out and open the flap, i noticed a loose white plastic electrical connector plate. The motor shaft still turns easily. I do not see burn marks or smell any burning.Last time the blower motor went, I paid $80 CDN parts and Labour. That was 18 years ago!The motor was $140 all in. USA
*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare. :)*
Those darn plastic plugs like to sneak away when you aren't looking. A #8x1/4" or so pan head machine or sheet metal screw makes a good replacement. Thanks for taking the time to make a great video.
You just saved me so much time and money. I had a bearing in the heater fan for my house starting to make noise tonight, at the beginning of a snowstorm and several days of below freezing temperatures. A few squirts of oil and it hasn't made a peep in several cycles. I am at least able to put off the actual repair until a convenient time and won't have to find a new motor in the ice storm. Thanks!
Thank You so much! Can only can get to bottom of the our 30 year old goodman attic unit! Did this a few years ago along with a bit of cleaning. It really did help and the fan turned faster. Not fun to work on.. Hands just to big to fit up to the top mtr. oil vent!
Thanks a lot. I just did this and the fan's blowing again. Wouldn't have know to look for the back cap. On my 80's era Carrier the front cap is just an indent in the motor housing, but it did the trick I don't have your cool oiler, but found a little bit of heat from a torch allowed a typical WD40 can straw to easily bend to perform the same duty. Cheers to you!
If the motor is sealed without oilers you can open it up and add tubes. I cut a notch in the metal caps and a notch in the housing in line with a vent hole with a Dremel (Be careful not to damage the coils! Don't get grindings in the bearings! ) and added plastic tubing (Ice maker water line?) to the hole in the outer bushing. While you are at it you could clean and polish the shaft and bushing if you think it needs it. Be sure the goo wick is not impacted in the hole. If so, clean it out and add some of the fresher surrounding goo or leave it out and push the tube in up to but NOT touching the shaft. I also added 1" of lantern wick cut down the middle and inserted in the end of the tubes at the bearing end. I used appropriate machine screws slipped into the outside ends for caps. So far so good. Not something that everyone would try but I am cheap and tenacious and did not want to throw away a good motor. If you try this, you may want another motor on hand or have fast access to one. I occasionally turn the furnace off and check that the cage still spins free and then turn it back on. BTW Marvel Mystery Oil barely lasted a day oiling without tubes or wicking. Hoppes gun oil lasted over a week oiling without tubes or wicking. Briggs & Stratton oil which is detergent straight 30 seems to work well. The non detergent Zoom oil is probably best. I cleaned and removed the previous oil before trying each. Yeah, I like to experiment too. ;)
Thanks for the clear video - couldn't have been easier, the caps were missing and directly on top of the unit. Filled with 3+1 for now - see if the noise is gone when my cleaner-guy comes to fix the burner that's kaput for a month now. That's usually an easy fix and hopefully I'm back in the heat again tomorrow, I'll report then on UP/Down status. Many thanks.
I think the felt/Permawick sawdust looking goop inside is an oil wick and not a filter. If dust builds up from leaving the cap off (years), it will clog the wick and stop it from oiling the shaft. A clear flexible tube to the front bearing is a good idea so you may not need to remove the blower. I blower cage should spin for 10 seconds or more after the motor shuts off to insure free movement. It is said to not use a detergent oil since it is not an internal combustion engine. The oil you are using I think is the "standard" "turbine" oil. Do not over oil or it will leak into the coils.
Thank you very much for this video. I was able to repair my electric furnace before the spring break when no one was available. Not so complicated after all!!
This along with a push-start (using something plastic/wooden) can sometimes make the difference between a 90* house before a tech can make it out to replace the blower and sitting comfortably while waiting.
We've had this issue for a week; does it off and on and not all day. I've told the landlord about it twice and even sent an mp3 file with the noise to drive the point home. I might just oil it myself. I'm not a homeowner or home renter, but rent a room in a house with 3 other guys. Landlord has been flaky lately so I'm not sure I want to live hear after my year lease is up next august. The main issue is that when it happens I can hear it through my bedroom walls and it is hard to sleep, the neighbors for sure can hear it too since it's close to their house.
Can you replace the bearings if you need it, so you can save some money because you don’t have to replace the blower motor for a new one? Thanks for your help :)
I just lubed my 1977 Lennox furnace motor, the oil dropped out the bottom on one of the ports. First time doing it in 2 years so I’ll risk it this winter I guess. Don’t want to upgrade my furnace for this unique scenario (part time business, not house).
I recently had to replace the capacitor on the blower motor. Afterward we noticed the blower sort of rumbling. I thought the blower cage might be the culprit after all the things I read about fins coming loose and dirt falling off which causes it to be out of balance. I even realized on the way home yesterday the blower sounds very much like the tires on my Tahoe that are out of balance. After all my research, I decided to take a look at it. I could determine nothing about the blower cage other than I can tell it's out of round a bit when I manually spin it slowly. I do see one weight on a fin, and there does not appear to be any missing weights or loose fins. I removed the blower and cleaned it thoroughly. There might be some difference but it's not much. The motor seems to turn smoothly and there do not appear to be oil holes. However, the shaft on the motor has a bit of play in it. I'd say I can move the shaft in and out about 1/8". Is this normal? Is this likely my problem or should I still look towards the blower cage? The shaft does not appear to have any wobble and otherwise turns smoothly. Thanks in advance!
+TroyTube The end play is normal. Blowers can come apart where the hub is in contact with the blades. Its not very obvious but there should be some paint missing at the contact point. Also, the set screw portion of the hub can break loose from the rest of the hub. Other than that, the blower could be cavitating. Usually this only happens when the blower door is off. Hope thus helps. GFM
TroyTube Did you ever fix this issue? One of my rentals has the exact same issue. It’s a rumble every few seconds. I see nothing wrong with the motor or the blower wheel. I get the same sound with the door on or off the airhandler....
GrifFungin - i would probably dissaseble it and try manually to lube it if theres no oil port, make one, then put a plug in it or at least some toyota silicone, let it dry and try it again good luck
Thanks for the update on oiling my reducer blower. I was thinking the same thing at first but having troubles exactly on where to oil it. Your video on Fan motor gives me an idea for that but i want to be safe and not put oil in the wrong area on the reducer blower. My model # is a Goodman GMP075-3... Serial # 0003666630 I believe it was put in when i bought my house in 2001. Thanks again for your help. Glad to have an experts help on youtube.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was Very helpful and informitive. It also helped me win an argument about this matter with my wife!!
Well, nothing at all. If the bearings are sealed, there is a packing of oil around the bearing meant to last the life of the motor. If a seal fails and the oil runs out, the motor must be replaced. Most motors now are sealed. Thanks for the comment. GFM
You actually can oil the motors that are sealed - some vids showing how but I just did mine and made a quicky - windings and armature and shafts were perfect, it was only oil that it needed (I replaced mine later anyway, but didn't need to) - ruclips.net/video/VgwCVNEquNg/видео.html
I just wanted to say thank you for sharing this information. It came in handy on a VERY cold night. it wouldn't even spin anymore it was so dry. Happy holidays and God Bless.
i sure hope that I can get to my plugs... The motor faces the cold air return manifold which is 3" from a cinder block wall. I may need a child or Chucky from Childs Play to reach a tiny arm through the filter housing. I'd like to hear the failing blower motor. Mine is beginning to squeak.
Manuals ive seen recommend 10 drops every 6 to 12 months. You can extend the inside port with a small piece of brass tubing and gas trimer fuel line. switched to IngersolRand recriprocating air compressor synthetic all season oil. If the motor is covered with dust you need to clean it with a vacum.
Good video mate .... question : Old motor from church went out ... I got a diferent one . It doesn't do anything... i noticed the old one has 4 wires coming out ( low,med,high and Com ) ... but the new motor just has three wires ... ( low,med and high ) .... Com wire is left .... maybe thats the issue ? ... thank you
I was reading the manual with my Rheem highboy furnace. The manufacture states SAE 10 or 20 motor oil or light oil for blowers may be used. In addition to that information the manufacturer states only to add between 10 - 20 drops of oil every 2 years of regular service. or every 5 years of light service. more oil than that can damage the motor. Check manual as it should be with the unit or call the manufacture.
sorry if u already addressed this but do u know if I can swap out a belt drive blower for a direct drive? my old belt drive unit has gotten a bit too noisy & I'm hoping I can quiet it a bit. i believe the noise that bothers us is caused by the shaking of the elements due to the rough motor movement.
When I went to pull off the top/cap of the plug using a knife like you, I accidentally sliced off the cap!!! How can I get the rest of the plug out? I'm such a klutz.
Bearings seized up on my Bryant +90 and I HAD to pull the blower assembly out to oil it manually,put it back in and got it going with a drill motor on the shaft end.(Scary). I waited until the unit called for heat and the motor buzzed. I worked for a week until the new motor got here. Done. I used the wrong oil .(15-50). Supposed to be 20wt. non-detergent. I popped the covers off to get oil on the bushing,manually spun it on the bench.
we got some oil on the moving part of the fan/motor thingy, is that ok ? It is working great now, no squeaks or clunking, took our time and dusted brushed cleaned it all really well.
What kind of grease do you use on sealed bearings for the shaft and if so how often would you grease it? I know the instructions say to use 20sae oil for the bearings only every so often
Just bought a house and furnace is vibrating. Was told shaft is warped?if I clean the blower motor and fan and oil it will it save it for awhile till I can save for a new furnace?
Hello again my friend if that blower motor is overheating and and after a while smells like burning and compresor turns white freezing the problem most likely is the motor?
Zoom spout oil is expressly for motor oiling and is non detergent. I dont know whether you should use detergent or non. I have not seen any motor manufacturers recommendations. If you have seen any factory specs I would be interested. Thanks for the comment. Merry Christmas GFM
Just pulled mine and no oil holes, i was able to pop the front and back caps off with light taps and a screw driver.inside it had that felt material so i just added oil that way, and recapped it
How about a draft inducer motor? Do they typically have oil points at well? I looked on mine and I didn't see any. The problem is that the furnace only SOMETIMES engages. The thermostat clicks on just fine, but that often just leads to a buzzing/humming noise from the furnace. On times that the furnace does decide to work, the blower motor will kick on and shortly after, everything else will start doing it's job.
+asdfgoogle Most of them do not have oilers. If the rotor of the motor is stiff, the bearings have failed and it must be replaced. You can oil the shaft near the bearings. That may help for a while, but the bearings have failed. GFM
I have a Dayton fan motor running my whole house fan. I've never oiled it, so based on this video, I went up and looked at the motor itself. I found 2 yellow plugs that look right, but they are facing sideways from the motor housing (the motor is mounted such that the shaft points down). The motor housing says "Lubricate with 30 drops once per year". First of all, how do I measure 30 drops when the holes are sideways? Do I need to unbolt the motor and turn it hole-up? Also, I presume 30 drops per hole, not 15 each.
Just fyi a lot/most of the new motors in modern residential hvac units do not have these ports. 9 times out of 10 if your motor starts to screech you can delay the inevitable but you will most likely need to replace the motor.
what can happen if the direct drive motor does not get lubricated for say 10+ years? is it possible no damage would occur? I oiled my motor today after watching this vid, awesome information btw
we just had a HVAC guy telling us the motor was dying and it was a little stiff- causing it to stop working after an hour. but when it cools down it may turn on again. Are you saying that all you need to keep it up and running is lube it?I think ie caused the capacitor to stop working. The HVAC guy says these motors are destined to fail after a certain number of years( less than 10) since they are on continuously nearly the entire year. Is he right or was he just selling us a car here? its an Tran xR80
Hi Gary, I have a Inter-city Gas furnace model HGC-125. The blower has a hard time starting. The motor gets hot. The blower motor has a belt and is outside the blower wheel. I suspect the motor is going or the start capacitor. I can not locate the start capacitor anywhere. Does this furnace model has a capacitor.
It probably does not have a capacitor. If it does not start hit the motor with a hammer. If it starts, the start switch is failing. Means a new motor. GFM
I have an old Thermopride oil furnace. Fan sounds fine when running... easy to spin, but when it starts up.. sometimes (not always) it makes a clunk kind of noise, usually once.. sometimes twice. Been doing this for as long as I can remember. Maybe something is loose? Or is this normal... for an old gal.
@@Swoliosis1 If it had just recently happened, I would be looking at a loose set screw or loose motor mounts. But if it has been doing this for a long time with no failure, I would suspect it is a characteristic of the motor itself. I have seen motors that do this with no explanation a number of times. GFM
Had a motor that was overheating from no oil, making noise, had play in the blower bearing. Used 10 w 40 Synthetic car motor oil, been running for a year,good so far...
Here I have a "zoom spout oil" filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W 30. I have re lubed the Carrier here about every 3 to 5 years; or when I hear it slightly squeak when it is turned off. The Furnace is a dual unit; 2 motors. Two twin furnaces. With the power off one can give each a pull and see how long the fan/motor takes to stop. ie compare left and right units. The Air handler is from 1985 and the original motors, still running after 32 years.
You mentioned the "infamous zoom spout oiler"? However it appears that you use it anyways. Why "infamous", is there something wrong with it that we should be aware of?
I did mine I replaced BM A FEW years ago but now thinking could the capacitor been the cuilprit of it not working ? It was hot to the touch soo that made me think it was blower motor
Generally, I recommend replacing the cap with the motor. Also, the new motor may use a different size. As for whether the cap was at fault for the original failure, or even if the original motor was failing, I don't know. These motors can operate at 40 degrees Celsius above ambient(about 170 F). I would check the cap strength and compare to the motor model plate. GFM
have a gas furnace that hasn't been running in over five years. went to test it today to see if blower works, but it didn't kick on. I did hear the gas valve make a click noise. the gas isn't turned on yet. my question' does the gas need to be turned on in order for blower to work? looks like a little relay or switch on the gas valve that connects to the blower. older unit.
Your gas must be turned on for the blower to work unless the thermostat has a "fan on, auto" switch. You can test the fan there. You have power to the furnace because you hear the click. Turn on the gas and go thru the same steps. Depending on the age of the furnace, it will either fire up on its own, or you will have to light the pilot. Hope this helps. GFM
yes you're right. after some research the fan switch works from heat. the connection to blower then will activate once furnace is heated up. simple unit but interesting the way they were designed.
i took the blower motor out of a old trailer and its from 1974 i washed it with water hose waited for it to dry then oiled it wired it up to a exstenion cord and now its a great shop fan the best shop fan iv ever owned
I do the same with box fans, electrical engineering is not a strong suit at our local college, they must have mommy and daddy’s money because they throw them out if they get a bit dirty 🤷♂️
This fan works very well. ruclips.net/user/postUgkx7yWIKcrbA9KMHkGSfcgxW2lsjHT6B8Sh I replaced my old fan as our radon levels began to spike. When I remove the old fan water poured out of the fan. Must have entered in through the out spout. Replaced with this unit and levels dropped a bit but still over 4.0.Did some more digging and found that we had a small hole under our waste pipe that was allowing some water and radon in.Patched the hole and the levels dropped almost overnight.I really would recommend the radon sensor. It gives real time readings. Without it we would have never known that we had this issue.
I about had a heart attack when the blower motor in my 24-year old Interthem/Nordyne started intermittently screeching this morning while getting ready for work, and after stressing quite a bit over the course of the day followed by some clean up and your video this evening, I quickly and easily found the aluminum oil hole plugs and managed to throw a little Zoom Spout (I actually had a bottle lying around - LOL) in each... without even pulling the blower.
Major props for helping yet ANOTHER (quite thankful) DIY'er. ;)
Where was that plug located exactly
Just replaced the outside fan motor in our home HVAC system from 1978, it was the EXACT same Emerson motor in your video and was the original motor. It was still working, but the bearings were starting to get noisy. I kept it oiled the 20 years we've owned this house along with the indoor blower motor which is still running just fine. The system is a Whirlpool "green wedge" HVAC system and I've never had to call anyone to service it. I keep the motors oiled and replace the caps and relays every 7 to 8 years. No electronics to worry about, and we're still using the original White-Rodgers thermostat. The system gets a good workout here in FL and I'm not replacing it, not ever. Any part that goes out that I can't replace I'll just have a serviceman do it and if the R22 gets out, I'll use AC77.
Thank you SO MUCH for your video. My Brother owns a large HVAC Company, and refuses to help me. With your & other videos, you've helped me save my furnace!
Glad I could help.
GFM
yur brutha sukz... lol
Angel Advntg I’m sorry but you have a shitty brother!
8 yrs later, does he still suck?
Thank you! This really helped me. I had no idea where the oil holes were, the manual for the McQuay HiLine says to oil it every 6 months, but it doesn't say where!
Most motors do not have them anymore. However, we work on things that are not new. So its good to know what to look for. Thanks for the comment.
GFM
what about an 06 blower? think it would have them or not? I'm getting a quick squeal from the air handler when it turns on.
Great video -- When I pull out the blower assembly - I'll also take out the fan motor (from the blower assembly) - then clean the blower wheel, assembly, and motor. Perfect time and it only takes 10-15 min and this greatly improves the blower efficiency.
I have several ZoomSpouts, they have basically 10 wt oil in them when new. I have a new one, one with 20w50, & one with 90% 30wt & 10% STP. Various ages of motors use different viscosity of oil to protect them for long periods. Just me, maybe, but I service a lot of older stuff, and it hangs in there fine, if taken care of. Michael in Colorado.
I loved this. "Should oil everything under the sun". Guess that'll do.
I was at the lasses house and she was complaining that's her heater was squeaking like mad. And I just said it needs some 3-1. But then I looked at the thing and needed some help navigating . Thanks for the laugh along the way my friend
Well this just saved me hundreds if not thousands depending on the technician. Thank you brother!
Thanks for the help! After coming home from picking up my wife after she hit a deer and it tore up her car really good, we smelled something burning in the house. The 1st thing I thought of was the furnace. Sure enough, the blower wasn't turning. I cut the power immediately. After cleaning the deer (I DO have my priorities - lol), I tackled the blower motor but could not remember where to oil it or if it was sealed. I have replaced several of these but it's been a while. Again, thanks for the simple reminder!
Thanks Gary, you were very helpful to jump start me troubleshooting. Yes it is an old furnace. About a week ago, an electrical type of burning smell came up to the 2nd floor bedroom, late at night. Got worry about a fire. Went to the basement first to check the furnace. Could not smell burning, but heard an electrical humming and buzzing before the fan kicked in. Outside belt drive motor, no capacitor.
The best is that I got a brand new motor, same specs on Easter Sunday.Owner of “James Electric & Motors” said I am open 24/7 and 365 days. Got motor and put new. Works like a charm! No more smell, humming and buzzing. No more erratic start and stop. Nice and quiet now. When I pulled the old motor out and open the flap, i noticed a loose white plastic electrical connector plate. The motor shaft still turns easily. I do not see burn marks or smell any burning.Last time the blower motor went, I paid $80 CDN parts and Labour. That was 18 years ago!The motor was $140 all in. USA
Glad you got it going.
GFM
*Well-made, delivered quickly, and easy to install with **Fastly.Cool** . I may be imagining it, but it seems quieter than the 14 year-old unit that I pulled out. Of course it was noisy at the end due to failed bearings, so hard to compare. :)*
Those darn plastic plugs like to sneak away when you aren't looking. A #8x1/4" or so pan head machine or sheet metal screw makes a good replacement. Thanks for taking the time to make a great video.
You just saved me so much time and money. I had a bearing in the heater fan for my house starting to make noise tonight, at the beginning of a snowstorm and several days of below freezing temperatures. A few squirts of oil and it hasn't made a peep in several cycles. I am at least able to put off the actual repair until a convenient time and won't have to find a new motor in the ice storm. Thanks!
Thank You so much! Can only can get to bottom of the our 30 year old goodman attic unit! Did this a few years ago along with a bit of cleaning. It really did help and the fan turned faster. Not fun to work on.. Hands just to big to fit up to the top mtr. oil vent!
Thanks a lot. I just did this and the fan's blowing again. Wouldn't have know to look for the back cap. On my 80's era Carrier the front cap is just an indent in the motor housing, but it did the trick I don't have your cool oiler, but found a little bit of heat from a torch allowed a typical WD40 can straw to easily bend to perform the same duty. Cheers to you!
Glad you got it going.
GFM
If the motor is sealed without oilers you can open it up and add tubes. I cut a notch in the metal caps and a notch in the housing in line with a vent hole with a Dremel (Be careful not to damage the coils! Don't get grindings in the bearings! ) and added plastic tubing (Ice maker water line?) to the hole in the outer bushing. While you are at it you could clean and polish the shaft and bushing if you think it needs it. Be sure the goo wick is not impacted in the hole. If so, clean it out and add some of the fresher surrounding goo or leave it out and push the tube in up to but NOT touching the shaft. I also added 1" of lantern wick cut down the middle and inserted in the end of the tubes at the bearing end. I used appropriate machine screws slipped into the outside ends for caps. So far so good. Not something that everyone would try but I am cheap and tenacious and did not want to throw away a good motor. If you try this, you may want another motor on hand or have fast access to one. I occasionally turn the furnace off and check that the cage still spins free and then turn it back on. BTW Marvel Mystery Oil barely lasted a day oiling without tubes or wicking. Hoppes gun oil lasted over a week oiling without tubes or wicking. Briggs & Stratton oil which is detergent straight 30 seems to work well. The non detergent Zoom oil is probably best. I cleaned and removed the previous oil before trying each. Yeah, I like to experiment too. ;)
solarsynapse
It'd be great if you made a video of this method.
Thanks for the clear video - couldn't have been easier, the caps were missing and directly on top of the unit. Filled with 3+1 for now - see if the noise is gone when my cleaner-guy comes to fix the burner that's kaput for a month now. That's usually an easy fix and hopefully I'm back in the heat again tomorrow, I'll report then on UP/Down status. Many thanks.
Thanks! I didn't know about the oil plugs. In this time of emergency, where no one can come fox it, this was potentially life saving!
Welcome wishing you health.
GFM
My Sears furnace from 1988 has a lube hose. The blower still runs perfect.
It’s -45c right now at midnight and my furnace wouldn’t blow. You saved me a freezing night man! God bless!
Happy new year
GFM
You too!
I think the felt/Permawick sawdust looking goop inside is an oil wick and not a filter. If dust builds up from leaving the cap off (years), it will clog the wick and stop it from oiling the shaft. A clear flexible tube to the front bearing is a good idea so you may not need to remove the blower. I blower cage should spin for 10 seconds or more after the motor shuts off to insure free movement. It is said to not use a detergent oil since it is not an internal combustion engine. The oil you are using I think is the "standard" "turbine" oil. Do not over oil or it will leak into the coils.
Thank you very much for this video. I was able to repair my electric furnace before the spring break when no one was available. Not so complicated after all!!
Welcome
GFM
Thank you for the tip on oiling blower motor.... mine was running noisy for one cycle... then would cut off... running perfectly now... Thanks again.
All true. A service should include blower cleaning. Thanks for the comment
GFM
Thanks for the support
GFM
Thanks for the video! I was able to help someone get back to staying cool today with the help of this video!
This along with a push-start (using something plastic/wooden) can sometimes make the difference between a 90* house before a tech can make it out to replace the blower and sitting comfortably while waiting.
We usually oil motors annually.
GFM
Thanks
We've had this issue for a week; does it off and on and not all day. I've told the landlord about it twice and even sent an mp3 file with the noise to drive the point home. I might just oil it myself. I'm not a homeowner or home renter, but rent a room in a house with 3 other guys. Landlord has been flaky lately so I'm not sure I want to live hear after my year lease is up next august.
The main issue is that when it happens I can hear it through my bedroom walls and it is hard to sleep, the neighbors for sure can hear it too since it's close to their house.
Can you replace the bearings if you need it, so you can save some money because you don’t have to replace the blower motor for a new one? Thanks for your help :)
I just lubed my 1977 Lennox furnace motor, the oil dropped out the bottom on one of the ports. First time doing it in 2 years so I’ll risk it this winter I guess. Don’t want to upgrade my furnace for this unique scenario (part time business, not house).
I handle my furnace and ac your videos are very helpful
I recently had to replace the capacitor on the blower motor. Afterward we noticed the blower sort of rumbling. I thought the blower cage might be the culprit after all the things I read about fins coming loose and dirt falling off which causes it to be out of balance. I even realized on the way home yesterday the blower sounds very much like the tires on my Tahoe that are out of balance. After all my research, I decided to take a look at it. I could determine nothing about the blower cage other than I can tell it's out of round a bit when I manually spin it slowly. I do see one weight on a fin, and there does not appear to be any missing weights or loose fins. I removed the blower and cleaned it thoroughly. There might be some difference but it's not much. The motor seems to turn smoothly and there do not appear to be oil holes. However, the shaft on the motor has a bit of play in it. I'd say I can move the shaft in and out about 1/8". Is this normal? Is this likely my problem or should I still look towards the blower cage? The shaft does not appear to have any wobble and otherwise turns smoothly. Thanks in advance!
+TroyTube The end play is normal. Blowers can come apart where the hub is in contact with the blades. Its not very obvious but there should be some paint missing at the contact point. Also, the set screw portion of the hub can break loose from the rest of the hub. Other than that, the blower could be cavitating. Usually this only happens when the blower door is off. Hope thus helps.
GFM
It must be the motor that's the issue. I replace the blower wheel and it sounds exactly the same. Sort of a rumble that is every second or so.
TroyTube Did you ever fix this issue? One of my rentals has the exact same issue. It’s a rumble every few seconds. I see nothing wrong with the motor or the blower wheel. I get the same sound with the door on or off the airhandler....
GrifFungin - i would probably dissaseble it and try manually to lube it
if theres no oil port, make one, then put a plug in it or at least some toyota silicone, let it dry and try it again
good luck
Great video. I had to do this today and this video got me through it. Thanks for sharing!
Welcome
GFM
Thank you for this. I was able to get it & keep going until I could replace the motor
Thanks for the update on oiling my reducer blower. I was thinking the same thing at first but having troubles exactly on where to oil it. Your video on Fan motor gives me an idea for that but i want to be safe and not put oil in the wrong area on the reducer blower. My model # is a Goodman GMP075-3... Serial # 0003666630 I believe it was put in when i bought my house in 2001. Thanks again for your help. Glad to have an experts help on youtube.
Most of +10 ton packages units with belt driven blowers you have to use a grease pump to lubricate the bearings.
I have a 1971 InterTherm MAC 1155 furnace. I use the same oil before, during and after using the furnace. Mine has open oil tubes.
Thank you for taking the time to make this video. It was Very helpful and informitive. It also helped me win an argument about this matter with my wife!!
Welcome. Do you ever really win an argument with your wife?
GFM
Well, nothing at all. If the bearings are sealed, there is a packing of oil around the bearing meant to last the life of the motor. If a seal fails and the oil runs out, the motor must be replaced. Most motors now are sealed. Thanks for the comment.
GFM
You actually can oil the motors that are sealed - some vids showing how but I just did mine and made a quicky - windings and armature and shafts were perfect, it was only oil that it needed (I replaced mine later anyway, but didn't need to) - ruclips.net/video/VgwCVNEquNg/видео.html
I just wanted to say thank you for sharing this information. It came in handy on a VERY cold night. it wouldn't even spin anymore it was so dry. Happy holidays and God Bless.
timmylee1974 I would get a new motor in case the old one fails again. Happy holidays to you.
GFM
i sure hope that I can get to my plugs... The motor faces the cold air return manifold which is 3" from a cinder block wall. I may need a child or Chucky from Childs Play to reach a tiny arm through the filter housing.
I'd like to hear the failing blower motor. Mine is beginning to squeak.
Thanks for the helpful video. Would this be the thing to do to solve the squeak I am hearing sometimes when the blower is operating?
It could be. It could also be a sheet metal squeak. Try moving the covers around.
GFM
Thank you sir for this video. My fan blower motor seems a little louder than normal when it turns on. Will try oiling.
Manuals ive seen recommend 10 drops every 6 to 12 months. You can extend the inside port with a small piece of brass tubing and gas trimer fuel line. switched to IngersolRand recriprocating air compressor synthetic all season oil. If the motor is covered with dust you need to clean it with a vacum.
Godbless you , thank you very much for this video.
Terrific video! Thank you for making it!
Good video mate .... question :
Old motor from church went out ... I got a diferent one . It doesn't do anything... i noticed the old one has 4 wires coming out ( low,med,high and Com ) ... but the new motor just has three wires ... ( low,med and high ) .... Com wire is left .... maybe thats the issue ? ... thank you
I was reading the manual with my Rheem highboy furnace. The manufacture states SAE 10 or 20 motor oil or light oil for blowers may be used. In addition to that information the manufacturer states only to add between 10 - 20 drops of oil every 2 years of regular service. or every 5 years of light service. more oil than that can damage the motor. Check manual as it should be with the unit or call the manufacture.
sorry if u already addressed this but do u know if I can swap out a belt drive blower for a direct drive? my old belt drive unit has gotten a bit too noisy & I'm hoping I can quiet it a bit. i believe the noise that bothers us is caused by the shaking of the elements due to the rough motor movement.
+bgregg55 I would think the belt drive motor would be higher RPM and lower torque than the direct drive. Can you check specs on the labels?
Superb camera work! With tripod! Sweet!
Hubby said to give a great big thanks for this...a/c went out this fixed it...never knew how to oil with no ports !
When I went to pull off the top/cap of the plug using a knife like you, I accidentally sliced off the cap!!! How can I get the rest of the plug out? I'm such a klutz.
About all you can do now is drill it out. Don't worry about pieces getting into the bearing. There is a filter that holds the oil.
GFM
thank you
use a small screw and insert into oiler hole than just pull it up and you have the other piece
Liz Duncan Your not a klutz! So many people were couldn't even do what you did. Or they wouldn't even try.
Lol, just did the same thing. Heated up a pin and slide it in. Let it cool and out it came. Us Klutz’s have to stick together.
Bearings seized up on my Bryant +90 and I HAD to pull the blower assembly out to oil it manually,put it back in and got it going with a drill motor on the shaft end.(Scary). I waited until the unit called for heat and the motor buzzed.
I worked for a week until the new motor got here. Done.
I used the wrong oil .(15-50). Supposed to be 20wt. non-detergent.
I popped the covers off to get oil on the bushing,manually spun it on the bench.
I watched one of the blower video and repaired my unit thanks for the help burl yates
Glad it helped.
GFM
we got some oil on the moving part of the fan/motor thingy, is that ok ? It is working great now, no squeaks or clunking, took our time and dusted brushed cleaned it all really well.
It should not harm the motor.
GFM
What kind of grease do you use on sealed bearings for the shaft and if so how often would you grease it? I know the instructions say to use 20sae oil for the bearings only every so often
Just bought a house and furnace is vibrating. Was told shaft is warped?if I clean the blower motor and fan and oil it will it save it for awhile till I can save for a new furnace?
It probably won't make a difference, but it can't hurt.
GFM
What kind of furnace was that? Thanks!
Hello again my friend if that blower motor is overheating and and after a while smells like burning and compresor turns white freezing the problem most likely is the motor?
Motor failure or run capacitor failure.
GFM
Zoom Spout Oiler rocks!!!!
Zoom spout oil is expressly for motor oiling and is non detergent. I dont know whether you should use detergent or non. I have not seen any motor manufacturers recommendations. If you have seen any factory specs I would be interested. Thanks for the comment. Merry Christmas
GFM
Ive been using the the light blue three in one for quarter horsepower motors or larger and it goes dry quickly
Good video. Just was hoping to see how the motor speeds would be changed.
Try this one: ruclips.net/video/wWSJWfP_1vc/видео.html
GFM
Just pulled mine and no oil holes, i was able to pop the front and back caps off with light taps and a screw driver.inside it had that felt material so i just added oil that way, and recapped it
Nothing but love
Great video
How about a draft inducer motor? Do they typically have oil points at well? I looked on mine and I didn't see any.
The problem is that the furnace only SOMETIMES engages. The thermostat clicks on just fine, but that often just leads to a buzzing/humming noise from the furnace. On times that the furnace does decide to work, the blower motor will kick on and shortly after, everything else will start doing it's job.
+asdfgoogle Most of them do not have oilers. If the rotor of the motor is stiff, the bearings have failed and it must be replaced. You can oil the shaft near the bearings. That may help for a while, but the bearings have failed.
GFM
I have a Dayton fan motor running my whole house fan. I've never oiled it, so based on this video, I went up and looked at the motor itself. I found 2 yellow plugs that look right, but they are facing sideways from the motor housing (the motor is mounted such that the shaft points down). The motor housing says "Lubricate with 30 drops once per year". First of all, how do I measure 30 drops when the holes are sideways? Do I need to unbolt the motor and turn it hole-up? Also, I presume 30 drops per hole, not 15 each.
laughing
Hi. Is that oil good for the condenser motor in cold climate? If so please tell me the brand, and where can I buy the oil.
Thank you
Its actually just called "Zoom Spout oiler". Most hardware stores have it.
GFM
Just fyi a lot/most of the new motors in modern residential hvac units do not have these ports. 9 times out of 10 if your motor starts to screech you can delay the inevitable but you will most likely need to replace the motor.
You are correct. Of course you can't oil a motor with no oilers. But you have to look to determine.
GFM
Uh, I would think most people dont know to do this. Pretty important. Good to know.
York made one with two holes you could put it into ?….. God Bless Them !
That was on the old York Champion systems. I loved that setup!
GFM
what can happen if the direct drive motor does not get lubricated for say 10+ years? is it possible no damage would occur? I oiled my motor today after watching this vid, awesome information btw
Absolutely. Most of them are not oiled.
GFM
Good video !!!! Can I used 3 and 1 to oil my blower motor ?
Its probably as good as anything. Go for it.
GFM
+grayfurnaceman Agreed. That was my first thought when I saw this video.
Use 20 wt motor oil.
How often will the motor need to be oiled?
we just had a HVAC guy telling us the motor was dying and it was a little stiff- causing it to stop working after an hour. but when it cools down it may turn on again. Are you saying that all you need to keep it up and running is lube it?I think ie caused the capacitor to stop working. The HVAC guy says these motors are destined to fail after a certain number of years( less than 10) since they are on continuously nearly the entire year. Is he right or was he just selling us a car here? its an Tran xR80
Sounds like the bearings have failed.
As for the longevity of the motor, many motors last for 20+ years.
GFM
Hello, I just replaced my blower motor that failed, how often should the new one be lubricated?
It it has oilers, every heating season. Oil it enough to overflow the oiler.
GFM
What oil was used? Only the zoom spout oiler bottle was mentioned.
The Zoom Spout oiler is an oiler that comes with an oil made for motor oiling. You can use an SAE 20 non detergent oil.
GFM
Hi Gary, I have a Inter-city Gas furnace model HGC-125. The blower has a hard time starting. The motor gets hot. The blower motor has a belt and is outside the blower wheel. I suspect the motor is going or the start capacitor. I can not locate the start capacitor anywhere. Does this furnace model has a capacitor.
It probably does not have a capacitor. If it does not start hit the motor with a hammer. If it starts, the start switch is failing. Means a new motor.
GFM
If it is sealed bearings then what we do?
Dude! Awesome!
Is there a way to run tubing into the hole and have it easy to get to, so you don't have to remove the blower?
There are piping assemblies made for just that purpose. However, I have not seen any for around 30 years.
GFM
Aquarium tubing and funnel
Thank you for sharing this info.
Awesome ! Up and running
Glad its working
GFM
Thank you from the -15 degree in Wasilla, ak
Hope the oil did not congeal. lol
GFM
I have a 16yr old goodman furnace....what are the chances it needs to be oiled or would it be a sealed motor????
It probably has no oilers. But I would look.
GFM
You always doing great videos ....thanks I look for them everytime .....very useful.
Thank you very much I learn a lot from you!
Welcome
GFM
Thank you I found this video very helpful
Welcome
GFM
The blower on our wood furnace has been shutting on and off. Even bypassed. Could this be from overheating from lack of lubrication?
If the bearings are dry, the fan should not rotate freely.
GFM
I have an old Thermopride oil furnace. Fan sounds fine when running... easy to spin, but when it starts up.. sometimes (not always) it makes a clunk kind of noise, usually once.. sometimes twice. Been doing this for as long as I can remember. Maybe something is loose? Or is this normal... for an old gal.
Belt drive or direct drive?
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman Direct
@@Swoliosis1 If it had just recently happened, I would be looking at a loose set screw or loose motor mounts.
But if it has been doing this for a long time with no failure, I would suspect it is a characteristic of the motor itself.
I have seen motors that do this with no explanation a number of times.
GFM
Had a motor that was overheating from no oil, making noise, had play in the blower bearing. Used 10 w 40 Synthetic car motor oil, been running for a year,good so far...
Here I have a "zoom spout oil" filled with Mobil 1 Synthetic 10W 30. I have re lubed the Carrier here about every 3 to 5 years; or when I hear it slightly squeak when it is turned off. The Furnace is a dual unit; 2 motors. Two twin furnaces. With the power off one can give each a pull and see how long the fan/motor takes to stop. ie compare left and right units. The Air handler is from 1985 and the original motors, still running after 32 years.
Where is the capacitor on the old furnaces? Or is there one at all?
Some very old furnaces, especially with a belt drive blower may nit use a capacitor.
GFM
I looked at the furnace. There is no provision for oiling. Atco will come for maintenance in August.
Thank you
Welcome
GFM
You mentioned the "infamous zoom spout oiler"? However it appears that you use it anyways. Why "infamous", is there something wrong with it that we should be aware of?
Most people are unaware that the word “infamous” is derogatory and actually means “well known for some bad quality or deed.”
I did mine I replaced BM A FEW years ago but now thinking could the capacitor been the cuilprit of it not working ? It was hot to the touch soo that made me think it was blower motor
Generally, I recommend replacing the cap with the motor. Also, the new motor may use a different size. As for whether the cap was at fault for the original failure, or even if the original motor was failing, I don't know. These motors can operate at 40 degrees Celsius above ambient(about 170 F).
I would check the cap strength and compare to the motor model plate.
GFM
@@grayfurnaceman next if it’s not working I think I’ll try replacing the cap first
have a gas furnace that hasn't been running in over five years. went to test it today to see if blower works, but it didn't kick on. I did hear the gas valve make a click noise. the gas isn't turned on yet. my question' does the gas need to be turned on in order for blower to work? looks like a little relay or switch on the gas valve that connects to the blower. older unit.
it should ignite before the blower comes on.
Your gas must be turned on for the blower to work unless the thermostat has a "fan on, auto" switch. You can test the fan there. You have power to the furnace because you hear the click. Turn on the gas and go thru the same steps. Depending on the age of the furnace, it will either fire up on its own, or you will have to light the pilot. Hope this helps.
GFM
yes you're right. after some research the fan switch works from heat. the connection to blower then will activate once furnace is heated up. simple unit but interesting the way they were designed.
yes, unit up & running. thx for reply