This is one of the best how to videos I have seen on youtube, boating or otherwise. You obviously know what you are doing and have great communication skills, Thank you for the effort and deepest regards!
Restores my faith in humanity to see a craftsman who cares about his reputation, does his task on someone's stuff like it was his family's. Make every kid in school watch this to see how to live life as a responsible ADULT. This man is the right stuff. Mike Lowe (dirty jobs) should spend a day with him!
cutting that spanner off is a big help. Used a ratchet to pop the Cylinder caps, 3/8" impact to remove the nuts . Very easy and no danger of damaging the shaft
Great video that gave me confidence to attach my Sea Star last night. Came apart way easier than the one in this video; didn't even need a puller. It all came apart nicely. The real challenge was getting the new seals into the caps. Sure wish you had a video that shows how you get those tricky things in there.
+B Rob the Reseal kit comes with replacement caps with the seals installed. The caps have a bushing that holds the rod in place and wears with the seals. Seastar doesn't sell just the seals to my knowledge as you should replace the caps to get a fresh bushing. I have seen seals for sale someplace and am sure it will probably work out for you though probably won't last as long as if you replaced the caps as well.
+Leon Griffin Thanks for the info. I did find a seal kit, and took the seals out of the cap, and replaced them with the new seals. Definitely the hardest part of the entire job. My caps came off nicely; even the arm you had to use a puller on came off very easily. Everything went well, I see no leaks, and after finally bleeding the steering the right way, it's nice to have working steering back in the boat again. Thanks again for a great video.
Well shot video in all the details the Meckanic is a maestro in his trade. I really like how he cares for the job is doing and the respect for the customer boat. Again …the video is very detailed step by step I felt I was in a class room. And the gentleman taking the video he did a fantastic job he recorded everything clearly didn’t miss one thing.
You only have to remove one support bracket as the rod passes through so it can be slid right off the rod. Just did mine, lucky everything came apart without even having to tap or use any tool to remove the one bracket.
Great instructional video. I just completed my seal replacement. I had to purchase the puller to get the support brackets off. Even with the puller I could only get one bracket off while on the boat. I was able to remove the support rod and remaining bracket. Once off the boat I used a propane torch to heat the bracket, then put into the freezer for 1/2 hour. I was then able to get the bracket off using the puller and a bench vice. A friend recommended using anti seize lubricant instead of grease on the bracket during reassembly.
Superb video, mine is inoperative at the moment, engine is difficult to turn by hand. Steering works only if disconnected.. I suspect an internal by-pass if the slave cylinder of pump. Any tips on where to start, as in which is more likely. The system is full of fluid.and the wheel just turns and turns like a hydrostatic system on. A tractor.
2 questions: Is there a torque value for the ram nuts and/or the mounting bracket nuts? There is a seal at the middle of the ram. My kit did not have a replacement for that, and I didn't see you replace it. Problem, or no? Great video, great tools!
you don't change out the seal on the shaft?? . I used a 3/8 ' impact to remove the shaft nuts, worked like a charm. no fussing around or any chance to damage the shaft
Great video! Thanks. Would you recommend hydraulic steering on an I/O where the seals are buried inside the engine compartment? Do they require more maintenance than a VP DP steering system? Thanks.
I have the same issue. I contacted Seastar and they stated that the center seal has to be replaced by a certified service center. They gave me a list of service centers and one is in my area. The seal instructions have a warning not to remove the center shaft. I believe it has to do with if you scar the cylinder it can damage the seals and become a safety hazard. Also not sure what entails replacing the center seal as far as special tools etc. Looks like a Teflon seal to me... Either way it looks simple and anyone with a basic mechanical back ground and carefulness would be able to do, but the parts are not available...
So my ram started leaking today and I picket up the seal kit and spanner. Stupid question on removing the starboard side bracket, if instead of removing the fluid from the system first, if I removed the nut on the starboard side ram and starboard support rod and turned the steering wheel to starboard, wouldn't the port ram press the support rod out of the support bracket for me?
Wouldn't anti seize be a better option for the threaded shaft the bracket goes on? Not saying your wrong using grease but my brain says marine grade anti seize.
Thanks for the video, I purchased the bracket puller. Do you have a followup video detailing the fill and bleeding process. I'm especially interested in how to get the steering wheel and motor centered and the turns symmetrical port and starboard. Thanks
+boashna In a perfect world all shops would do perfect work. The big deal is that they would also give you your boat back fixed the next day! Probably not going to happen.
great video. I'll be doing my side mount cylinders this fall if the blue devil stop leak doesn't work. Would you recommend upgrading to a single front mount?
OOH , my mistake I didn't realize the seals came with new end caps. One more quest. did you have to use the cone fittings that came with kit? I didn't see that you needed them. Thanks Leon , wish you were in NJ I need that job done.
I have a new rib and I use the same steering system but on speeds more than 10 knots the wheel becomes ver stiff to turn it to the left. Bare in mind that the prop is a left turn one. Any idea to solve the problem???
Hi Leon...I have a quick question. I'm replacing my seals both at the helm and transom (seastar) and to my surprise in my directions after receiving my parts. I'm told I have to use certain torque when tightening after replacement. Including the steering wheel. This leaves me having to purchase torque tools on top of what I have already spent...Is this that important,or can you give me an idea. I hate to buy one time tools for a simple repair.
gb ski put the pin wrench on the ram and give it a light thump on the end of the wrench with a dead blow(plastic) hammer. The cap should loosen right up. Make sure your turning the wrench in the right direction! Also get a 3/4 piece of PEX pluming pipe and slip it over the hydraulic ram. It will protect it from nicks and gouging should you slip.
good video, thanks for posting. I was wondering where I can find the seal kits. I am the lead tech at a large marina and we only replace the entire cylinder , no reseal jobs so this leaves me with tons and tons of good hydraulic steering systems that simply need seals. question is, where can I find seals and shafts?
+Aaron Tonry The seal kits are commonly available. We will probably start to carry them as well. I can hardly believe that you would replace the whole cylinder when it just needs new seals!
Great video! I am getting ready to have to replace my seals on a HC5345. Would you happen to know how many quarts of hydraulic oil I would need to purchase? Thanks in advance!
Bill Brasky I would say have a couple of quarts on hand to be on the safe side. If you have heavily contaminated fluid in the system, you should purge and replace with new clean fluid for optimal lifespan of the entire steering system. The average hydraulic steering system (no power assist pump or auto pilot) consisting only of helm, hoses (20' +/-) and cylinder should hold about 2 quarts. If the remaining fluid is clean, and you only lost the contents of the steering cylinder, then a quart would probably be enough.
Bill Brasky Yes, Sea Star fluid is super expensive. If you buy a couple of one quart bottles, you should be able to return an unused/unopened bottle to most retailers. Marpaq makes a less expensive fluid that is designed for all hydraulic steering systems. I have no experience with it, so I hesitate to recommend anything other than Sea Star.
My sea star steering wheel turn all the way one way but won't turn the other but when I switch two lines it will do just the opposite anybody know how to fix this problem
russull roe The "seals" are installed in the end caps. The seal kit comes with new end caps all pre-assembled. We must have missed saying "these are the new seals from the seal kit" at about 16:00
This is one of the best how to videos I have seen on youtube, boating or otherwise. You obviously know what you are doing and have great communication skills, Thank you for the effort and deepest regards!
Marine Tech Tools, you folks are GOLD! In reading Greg O'Hare's comment below there is NOTHING I can write to improve on what Greg said! Thank you!
Restores my faith in humanity to see a craftsman who cares about his reputation, does his task on someone's stuff like it was his family's. Make every kid in school watch this to see how to live life as a responsible ADULT. This man is the right stuff. Mike Lowe (dirty jobs) should spend a day with him!
I have been searching for the complete rebuild of the SeaStar Hydraulic Steering. I have to replace my Support bar. Outstanding video. Thank you.
cutting that spanner off is a big help. Used a ratchet to pop the Cylinder caps, 3/8" impact to remove the nuts . Very easy and no danger of damaging the shaft
Great video that gave me confidence to attach my Sea Star last night. Came apart way easier than the one in this video; didn't even need a puller. It all came apart nicely. The real challenge was getting the new seals into the caps. Sure wish you had a video that shows how you get those tricky things in there.
+B Rob the Reseal kit comes with replacement caps with the seals installed. The caps have a bushing that holds the rod in place and wears with the seals. Seastar doesn't sell just the seals to my knowledge as you should replace the caps to get a fresh bushing. I have seen seals for sale someplace and am sure it will probably work out for you though probably won't last as long as if you replaced the caps as well.
+Leon Griffin Thanks for the info. I did find a seal kit, and took the seals out of the cap, and replaced them with the new seals. Definitely the hardest part of the entire job. My caps came off nicely; even the arm you had to use a puller on came off very easily. Everything went well, I see no leaks, and after finally bleeding the steering the right way, it's nice to have working steering back in the boat again. Thanks again for a great video.
I have never seen a shop that paid for what they break. Good vid.
Well shot video in all the details the Meckanic is a maestro in his trade. I really like how he cares for the job is doing and the respect for the customer boat. Again …the video is very detailed step by step I felt I was in a class room. And the gentleman taking the video he did a fantastic job he recorded everything clearly didn’t miss one thing.
Excellent video! I especially like how careful you were to not damage anything.
You only have to remove one support bracket as the rod passes through so it can be slid right off the rod. Just did mine, lucky everything came apart without even having to tap or use any tool to remove the one bracket.
GREAT VIDEO
I WAS ABLE TO COMPLETE THE REPAIR IN AN HOUR
I COULD NOT HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOUR SPECIAL TOOL
DEFINATLY WORTH THE INVESTMENT
Excellent video! Clear, well done and easy to follow. Thanks
Absolutely a great job with the video! Easy to follow and thorough. Thank you
Great instructional video. I just completed my seal replacement. I had to purchase the puller to get the support brackets off. Even with the puller I could only get one bracket off while on the boat. I was able to remove the support rod and remaining bracket. Once off the boat I used a propane torch to heat the bracket, then put into the freezer for 1/2 hour. I was then able to get the bracket off using the puller and a bench vice. A friend recommended using anti seize lubricant instead of grease on the bracket during reassembly.
Superb video, mine is inoperative at the moment, engine is difficult to turn by hand. Steering works only if disconnected.. I suspect an internal by-pass if the slave cylinder of pump. Any tips on where to start, as in which is more likely. The system is full of fluid.and the wheel just turns and turns like a hydrostatic system on. A tractor.
2 questions:
Is there a torque value for the ram nuts and/or the mounting bracket nuts?
There is a seal at the middle of the ram. My kit did not have a replacement for that, and I didn't see you replace it. Problem, or no?
Great video, great tools!
Hi did you get an answer to that second question about the middle seal at the ram?
Sir.. The plastic part in the middle of the Rod. Does It have an o-ring on It??? DId U change it out also?
Hi, did you get an answer to this question?
Thanks for sharing! I just replaced my seals and it went surprisingly smooth. The video was a huge help.
good job you are a good mechanic ty for all the info
What would cause needing to slowly but consistently turn the helm to the left when underway?
you don't change out the seal on the shaft?? . I used a 3/8 ' impact to remove the shaft nuts, worked like a charm. no fussing around or any chance to damage the shaft
Hi did you get an answer to this question? seeking this answer too
Great video. Saved it to my boat maintenance list.
when you use the spanner wrench to take off the seals do you evee use a 1/2 in pvc pipe to protect the ram?
Great video! Thanks. Would you recommend hydraulic steering on an I/O where the seals are buried inside the engine compartment? Do they require more maintenance than a VP DP steering system? Thanks.
Great video. Do you put anything on the glands (a little fluid?) before you slide them on the shaft?
How do you empty the fluid from the bleed tube after you’re done? 😅. I can’t get it to drain
Did your kit come with the shafts center o ring? Reference 15:38 into your vid. Great video.
I would like to know that to.
I think the center seal is worn on mine, as it slowly pulls to the side when cruising, without me turning the wheel.
I have the same issue. I contacted Seastar and they stated that the center seal has to be replaced by a certified service center. They gave me a list of service centers and one is in my area. The seal instructions have a warning not to remove the center shaft. I believe it has to do with if you scar the cylinder it can damage the seals and become a safety hazard. Also not sure what entails replacing the center seal as far as special tools etc. Looks like a Teflon seal to me... Either way it looks simple and anyone with a basic mechanical back ground and carefulness would be able to do, but the parts are not available...
So my ram started leaking today and I picket up the seal kit and spanner. Stupid question on removing the starboard side bracket, if instead of removing the fluid from the system first, if I removed the nut on the starboard side ram and starboard support rod and turned the steering wheel to starboard, wouldn't the port ram press the support rod out of the support bracket for me?
Excellent video. Thanks so much
Nice work now it is my time to give it a go
This exactly what I want to research for and really love this video,very patient in all steps
Great explanation of everything. Thank you!
Very good tutorial brother it really helped me a lot thank you god bless you
What do u do if the vicegrips trick doesn't work? The nut is only 2 threads from being off but even 2 vicegrips wont hold it.
Wouldn't anti seize be a better option for the threaded shaft the bracket goes on? Not saying your wrong using grease but my brain says marine grade anti seize.
Everyone doe's seal replacement. What about, the how to remove the bracket that holds the ram, to eng bracket , directly above the cylinder.
Thank you to share this video, thanks to taking your time to share your knowledge. I really appreciate.
Why does the reseal kit come with the 2 end cap seals and 2 bleed valve o rings plus 6 other o rings. What are the 6 other o rings used for?
Awesome video, Great care in mechanics. Thanks for taking the time to post. Very helpful
Thanks for the video, I purchased the bracket puller. Do you have a followup video detailing the fill and bleeding process. I'm especially interested in how to get the steering wheel and motor centered and the turns symmetrical port and starboard. Thanks
There’s one on my channel if you’re still looking for one
Fantastic, thank you! You just got a new subscriber too!
Thank you. You saved me time and money.
Another GREAT video from Leon.Thanks and you nailed it !!!! How do we get one of those tools?
if everybody was so perfect like you ,, I would stop working on my car and boat good job
+boashna In a perfect world all shops would do perfect work. The big deal is that they would also give you your boat back fixed the next day! Probably not going to happen.
Thank you . This video was great , very explanatory , easy to follow.
Love the video's and the tools. Thanks!
Another great video Leon! Any plans to do one on your method of bleeding the system?
If you need the center seal where can I get one?
Hi did you get an answer for this question?
Great information thank you. Any idea where I could purchase a puller for removal
Great video....thanks for all of your extremely helpful tips/info!!!!
great video. I'll be doing my side mount cylinders this fall if the blue devil stop leak doesn't work. Would you recommend upgrading to a single front mount?
Spot on!👊🏻🇺🇸
OOH , my mistake I didn't realize the seals came with new end caps. One more quest. did you have to use the cone fittings that came with kit? I didn't see that you needed them. Thanks Leon , wish you were in NJ I need that job done.
russull roe You mean the plastic cone to protect the seal from the threads that is shown exactly at 16:00?
I have a new rib and I use the same steering system but on speeds more than 10 knots the wheel becomes ver stiff to turn it to the left. Bare in mind that the prop is a left turn one. Any idea to solve the problem???
Could you use a marine grade antiseize on the support brackets instead of grease on installation?
+rumancokes Sure, use what you have. It may stick around for when they have to removed again! Give it a try.
Hi Leon...I have a quick question. I'm replacing my seals both at the helm and transom (seastar) and to my surprise in my directions after receiving my parts. I'm told I have to use certain torque when tightening after replacement. Including the steering wheel. This leaves me having to purchase torque tools on top of what I have already spent...Is this that important,or can you give me an idea. I hate to buy one time tools for a simple repair.
Great video. Thank you
Great “how to” video. Where can I get that ratchet driven pin wrench? I have tried using a spanner wrench but cannot get my end caps to budge.
Lee Wilcox you can buy them with the end caps from seastar. It comes in the rebuild kit.
Harbor freight and amazon have adjustable spanner wrenches for 5$, gonna try to get it tomorrow and try
gb ski put the pin wrench on the ram and give it a light thump on the end of the wrench with a dead blow(plastic) hammer. The cap should loosen right up. Make sure your turning the wrench in the right direction! Also get a 3/4 piece of PEX pluming pipe and slip it over the hydraulic ram. It will protect it from nicks and gouging should you slip.
good video, thanks for posting. I was wondering where I can find the seal kits. I am the lead tech at a large marina and we only replace the entire cylinder , no reseal jobs so this leaves me with tons and tons of good hydraulic steering systems that simply need seals. question is, where can I find seals and shafts?
+Aaron Tonry The seal kits are commonly available. We will probably start to carry them as well. I can hardly believe that you would replace the whole cylinder when it just needs new seals!
Where can I find that nifty puller you have?
threaded rod just pushed through on mine- IDK how to stop it! please help
I am not sure what you are describing here, will have to remove both support arms to change the seals but you do not need to remove the piston.
What seals do you recommend for replacing the old ones? I am having trouble deciding which seal kit would be reliable.
I would stick with OEM and get them directly from SeaStar.
Great, Great video !! Thank You for you time and expertise. I have a Sea Star HC4600, so I will search you site for info. Thanks Again !
Where can I buy spanners that attach to a ratchet or extension, like the one at 2:36 of the video? If possible, please help.
+Amanda Smith We finally have the production spanner wrench in available: marinetechtools.com/seastar-end-cap-wrench.html
Thanks so much
Thanks for your detailed video 👍
What are the torque specs for the nylon nuts on the bar??
Very well done video. I think I can do it now. Thank you.
How do you remove the swivel bracket?
Another great video. Is the special tool for the end caps the same one used on the the secondary tilt trim seal end caps?
Craig Risor amt0004 is the one that fits the seas trim caps. this wrench also fits most Yamaha v6 trim and tilt.
Perfect, thanks for the quick response.
Great video! I am getting ready to have to replace my seals on a HC5345. Would you happen to know how many quarts of hydraulic oil I would need to purchase? Thanks in advance!
Bill Brasky I would say have a couple of quarts on hand to be on the safe side. If you have heavily contaminated fluid in the system, you should purge and replace with new clean fluid for optimal lifespan of the entire steering system. The average hydraulic steering system (no power assist pump or auto pilot) consisting only of helm, hoses (20' +/-) and cylinder should hold about 2 quarts. If the remaining fluid is clean, and you only lost the contents of the steering cylinder, then a quart would probably be enough.
Tyler Holland Thank you! I am hoping I can get by with 1 quart because that stuff is pricey! Thanks again for your help and awesome video!
Bill Brasky Yes, Sea Star fluid is super expensive. If you buy a couple of one quart bottles, you should be able to return an unused/unopened bottle to most retailers. Marpaq makes a less expensive fluid that is designed for all hydraulic steering systems. I have no experience with it, so I hesitate to recommend anything other than Sea Star.
Just use ATF... Much cheaper and it's fine.
Do you sell that puller. Please let me know. Thanks
Getting me that puller 😀
what about stiff steering at 65 to 70 takes two hands to turn
You are going to fast? Lol. I wish I had an answer for you.
My sea star steering wheel turn all the way one way but won't turn the other but when I switch two lines it will do just the opposite anybody know how to fix this problem
I would love to know where you found the puller you used in the video? TIA as I'm having pure Hell with everything I try
great video.......
if you come to my country you will became a millioner in no time LLOLL
anyone knows if you can buy the steering rod only?
thomas tirol/florida no. You have to buy the whole ram new or used. The piston rod is not available separately
now that you got the steering bled you can dis mount that 225 and toss it in the trash.
great help. Thanx.
Thorough video, but did I miss you changing the seals? Wasn't that the purpose of the video?
russull roe The "seals" are installed in the end caps. The seal kit comes with new end caps all pre-assembled. We must have missed saying "these are the new seals from the seal kit" at about 16:00
Would a penetrating oil work overnight to loosen the support bracket? Or what is the safest method to use if you don't have a puller? Thanks.
+HDTV Guys its worth a try...
Good job
Marinas best
Evinrude all day
Too much talk not enough action!! Poor video!
Great video! Thanks