This is really great. These procedures are what we aim for at my job. At my job, the top condition is Very Good. We're okay with selling something "As-Is." but it has to be able to be fully restored easily and reasonably. Otherwise, no thank you. If someone is looking for something not easily found over here, we recommend...YOU!
Thanks Bellamy! One tip that I've picked up to test fast shutter speeds is to fire it a camera at it's fastest shutter speeds with the back door open while it's pointed at a bright light source. If you don't see a blip of light when it fires it means the fastest shutter speed isn't working. Obviously, this won't really test how accurate the fast speeds are but it will at least tell you that there will be an exposure at the fastest speeds.
@@japancamerahunter There is a guy in Germany who sells an App for your smart phone for little money which actually can measure quite easily (you only need a lamp) and exactly how good the shutter meets the set times. Works great.
@@japancamerahunter I got this little plug thing for £30 which works with an app to measure shutter speed, been quite useful. Obvs not the most accurate, but better than nowt :)
Re sniff test: In the US there's a popular spray lubricant called WD-40. It will make almost any sticky mechanism work, but not for long. Learn what it smells like, and then if you smell it in a camera, walk away.
Thank you for the tip on checking the shutter speed! I tested my FM2n’s one second shutter speed and synced it with a timer. I was really scared, but then a flush of relief when the shutter window closed at exactly one second with my timer 😭
one other thing, as these are film cameras, esp. classic ones, they use a CDS or isotope as the voltage reference to calibrate the light meter, and some of these as they are old, the isotope has decayed to a state where not enough of a reference voltage exists for the meter to work properly; another point on Nikon F2,F3 and other cameras which have separate viewfinders(meters) these sometimes take different batteries than the body ( the body battery in this case is for the MOTOR DRIVE or film transport sections), these might not be available anymore in size, or type (mercury, cadmium, or other metals); same with the film the camera takes, older cameras sometimes take 110, 620 , or other currently obsolete film stocks (2022 at time of writing this).
great video - I have a tendency to get too excited but I will remember now to take it slow :-) one thing I think is important is check if the thread on the front of the lens does not have bumps - or you will have no filters or hoods mount.
i bought a CL from the fleamarket for 25 dollars and it seems to be quite alright. As is to be expected, the film leader slot cracked off in one place, but is otherwise totally usable. Though the lens is quite moldy & there's a little fuzzy patch in the rangefinder. One 7artisans 35mm f/2 later and it's quickly become one of my favorite cameras. A bit unusual for a guy who usually carries around big, bulky SLRs.
Great video as always! I should mention that one tip I've learnt is to verify if the lens has a hard stop at infinity, especially for SLR's. Even if the lens is calibrated, the mirror angle might be off and it can give a false confirmation even if you have impeccible focus accuracy. I've been burnt on an occasion when I sent my camera across the ocean for a CLA, and did not raise this issue to the technician.
I'm always looking for prime brand cameras and lenses offered as defective. I like to CLA and repair them and am willing to accept challenges as well. I stay away from lost causes (dents, or missing parts, or lens separations are a no go), though, don't touch cameras with more electronics than a build in light meter, and avoid zoom lenses.
You made the point (for Leica) but I've found the number one recommendation is the reputation of the individual OR enterprise offering the item for sale. Someone who is offering a Hasselblad for the first time who has a few dozen ratings . . is far more risky then someone who has transacted hundreds of deals. There are some nice apps which can evaluate lower shutter speeds based on the sound they produce. They're obviously not the final answer but you can get some confidence on a few more settings than just the 1 second. Look at screw heads where they exist. Work that's been done by someone not so qualified will frequently "tear" the screw heads. THe camera/lens and tripod mount are excellent indicators of the use the camera or lens has received. Each time a lens is mounted, there is a minor amount of abrasion that occurs - - - I've seen loads of bodies where the externals looked great but which had obviously been used very heavily based on the lens and/or tripod mount. If buying online - make sure there is a photo of the serial number - - this can be critical if you are suspicious that goods offered MATCH the goods received and wish to return. Cheers!
Some very old lenses like Leica and Canon Serenar lenses etc. there csn be seen some very small bubbles interior to the lens. Those are not unusual in these old lenses, but are not a problem according to some experts.
good tips, but also if any rangefinder has been droped, it needs to be re colimated, aka the mirrors/prisms and other moving elements are out of alignment, this needs experts to re calibrate it; same goes for linhof and other LF field cameras, if the lens stops have shifted, or the system needs cams or discs to function ( to re-calibrate to each lens) these need the makers to fix it.
Thanks for the informative and articulate video. I always find a dealer with a good reputation is one of the best ways not to make a regrettable deal. Even if the price seems higher than some dude (you don't know) on eBay or someplace like that, the piece of mind you get from a reputable seller easily makes up the difference.
The smell part is really important. I once bought a Minolta X700 from a local seller that claimed the camera works great last time he used it. No battery inside and I took it home only to find the camera reeks of disgusting smoker smell 👃 and it is broken in more than one part. The guy works at a gas station, I guess that would be my first walkway from a “super deal” sign. P.S. bought a nice Olympus OM4 Ti from a seller that bought the camera from you 🙂
It is a good concept to teach buyers what to spot, sniff or test. But using mainly Leica rangefinders as your examples is limiting. Many new shooters go to 35mm SLRs, which are plentiful and usable, so examples of Pentax Spotmatic, Nikon F, Minolta SRT can be more helpful.
Dusts inside lenses are inevitable at this age. Just make sure there's nothing funky like fungus spots/strands, haze, excessive dusts, separation or anything out of the ordinary.
True. I sold a lens yesterday and the dude complained that there was some dust inside… I just said good luck finding a 50 year old lens without dust in it.
I was under the impression that a lens with fungus cannot be repaired because fungus actually etches the glass. Right or wrong? I would appreciate your expert opinion.
But what if I want my EXC+++ NO FUNGUS NO DUSTS lens with its free extra fungus and dust? As soon as I see mint with any additions I just ignore the seller.
If you want to buy from Japan online you will cull 99% of all sellers with that. I just ignore that and read the text. Japanese sellers are usually very meticulous in describing the camera and lens including all faults and problems. They seem to hate nothing more than bad ratings because of omitted facts about the offered piece.
How can the sound still be so FLAT? I am sure there is a sound engineer out there that follows you. Please ask someone to help you. The sound is beyond terrible...
Love this Bellamy! I’m guilty of not putting on a poker face myself. My excitement often overrides my sensibilities
You and me both!
Thank you for the 'Director's Cut'.
This is really great. These procedures are what we aim for at my job. At my job, the top condition is Very Good. We're okay with selling something "As-Is." but it has to be able to be fully restored easily and reasonably. Otherwise, no thank you. If someone is looking for something not easily found over here, we recommend...YOU!
That is awesome to hear. Thank you Jim. Hope to see you again sometime soon.
Thanks Bellamy! One tip that I've picked up to test fast shutter speeds is to fire it a camera at it's fastest shutter speeds with the back door open while it's pointed at a bright light source. If you don't see a blip of light when it fires it means the fastest shutter speed isn't working. Obviously, this won't really test how accurate the fast speeds are but it will at least tell you that there will be an exposure at the fastest speeds.
Great tip!
@@japancamerahunter There is a guy in Germany who sells an App for your smart phone for little money which actually can measure quite easily (you only need a lamp) and exactly how good the shutter meets the set times. Works great.
@@japancamerahunter I got this little plug thing for £30 which works with an app to measure shutter speed, been quite useful.
Obvs not the most accurate, but better than nowt :)
Re-upped with less music. I hope that is better.
So much better. Thank you!
Re sniff test: In the US there's a popular spray lubricant called WD-40. It will make almost any sticky mechanism work, but not for long. Learn what it smells like, and then if you smell it in a camera, walk away.
Immediately sniffed my black paint MP. All good.
Many thanks Bellamy. Great info!
Thank you for the tip on checking the shutter speed! I tested my FM2n’s one second shutter speed and synced it with a timer. I was really scared, but then a flush of relief when the shutter window closed at exactly one second with my timer 😭
Glad it helped!
one other thing, as these are film cameras, esp. classic ones, they use a CDS or isotope as the voltage reference to calibrate the light meter, and some of these as they are old, the isotope has decayed to a state where not enough of a reference voltage exists for the meter to work properly; another point on Nikon F2,F3 and other cameras which have separate viewfinders(meters) these sometimes take different batteries than the body ( the body battery in this case is for the MOTOR DRIVE or film transport sections), these might not be available anymore in size, or type (mercury, cadmium, or other metals); same with the film the camera takes, older cameras sometimes take 110, 620 , or other currently obsolete film stocks (2022 at time of writing this).
That was a very very good video, well worth it to watch for many !! Well done
Glad you enjoyed it!
All good info! Thanks for sharing
great video - I have a tendency to get too excited but I will remember now to take it slow :-) one thing I think is important is check if the thread on the front of the lens does not have bumps - or you will have no filters or hoods mount.
i bought a CL from the fleamarket for 25 dollars and it seems to be quite alright. As is to be expected, the film leader slot cracked off in one place, but is otherwise totally usable. Though the lens is quite moldy & there's a little fuzzy patch in the rangefinder. One 7artisans 35mm f/2 later and it's quickly become one of my favorite cameras. A bit unusual for a guy who usually carries around big, bulky SLRs.
Great video as always! I should mention that one tip I've learnt is to verify if the lens has a hard stop at infinity, especially for SLR's.
Even if the lens is calibrated, the mirror angle might be off and it can give a false confirmation even if you have impeccible focus accuracy. I've been burnt on an occasion when I sent my camera across the ocean for a CLA, and did not raise this issue to the technician.
Appreciate you sharing knowledge!
Great tips here 👍
Thank you so much Bellamy very good video really appreciate it.
Glad you enjoyed it
I'm always looking for prime brand cameras and lenses offered as defective. I like to CLA and repair them and am willing to accept challenges as well. I stay away from lost causes (dents, or missing parts, or lens separations are a no go), though, don't touch cameras with more electronics than a build in light meter, and avoid zoom lenses.
40-50 years ago I collected coins a bit. You are right - mint means coming from the mint and not touched by hands without gloves 😉.
You made the point (for Leica) but I've found the number one recommendation is the reputation of the individual OR enterprise offering the item for sale. Someone who is offering a Hasselblad for the first time who has a few dozen ratings . . is far more risky then someone who has transacted hundreds of deals. There are some nice apps which can evaluate lower shutter speeds based on the sound they produce. They're obviously not the final answer but you can get some confidence on a few more settings than just the 1 second. Look at screw heads where they exist. Work that's been done by someone not so qualified will frequently "tear" the screw heads. THe camera/lens and tripod mount are excellent indicators of the use the camera or lens has received. Each time a lens is mounted, there is a minor amount of abrasion that occurs - - - I've seen loads of bodies where the externals looked great but which had obviously been used very heavily based on the lens and/or tripod mount. If buying online - make sure there is a photo of the serial number - - this can be critical if you are suspicious that goods offered MATCH the goods received and wish to return. Cheers!
Some very old lenses like Leica and Canon Serenar lenses etc. there csn be seen some very small bubbles interior to the lens. Those are not unusual in these old lenses, but are not a problem according to some experts.
good tips, but also if any rangefinder has been droped, it needs to be re colimated, aka the mirrors/prisms and other moving elements are out of alignment, this needs experts to re calibrate it; same goes for linhof and other LF field cameras, if the lens stops have shifted, or the system needs cams or discs to function ( to re-calibrate to each lens) these need the makers to fix it.
Great tips! Thanks!
You look and act Kinda like if David Cross played a Camera enthusiast. Thank you for making this video!
Definitely not the first time I have been likened to David Cross. I am honoured.
Super helpful video. I can see myself going back to this video often as a reference in the future. Thank you!
Great to hear!
I look at the heads of the screws and retaining rings for signs of prior disassembly.
Excellent video ! I wish this was up when I was looking for my hasselblad ! Damn dodgy seller on eBay!
Geat info!
Thanks for the informative and articulate video. I always find a dealer with a good reputation is one of the best ways not to make a regrettable deal. Even if the price seems higher than some dude (you don't know) on eBay or someplace like that, the piece of mind you get from a reputable seller easily makes up the difference.
You really do get what you pay for. Thanks for commenting.
The smell part is really important. I once bought a Minolta X700 from a local seller that claimed the camera works great last time he used it. No battery inside and I took it home only to find the camera reeks of disgusting smoker smell 👃 and it is broken in more than one part. The guy works at a gas station, I guess that would be my first walkway from a “super deal” sign.
P.S. bought a nice Olympus OM4 Ti from a seller that bought the camera from you 🙂
Great Video!
Thanks!🙏
It is a good concept to teach buyers what to spot, sniff or test. But using mainly Leica rangefinders as your examples is limiting. Many new shooters go to 35mm SLRs, which are plentiful and usable, so examples of Pentax Spotmatic, Nikon F, Minolta SRT can be more helpful.
Dusts inside lenses are inevitable at this age. Just make sure there's nothing funky like fungus spots/strands, haze, excessive dusts, separation or anything out of the ordinary.
True. I sold a lens yesterday and the dude complained that there was some dust inside… I just said good luck finding a 50 year old lens without dust in it.
After a through cleaning I like using Armor-All to restore the rubber on cameras
Good call. That stuff works too.
so is pledge
I was under the impression that a lens with fungus cannot be repaired because fungus actually etches the glass. Right or wrong? I would appreciate your expert opinion.
It really depends on how bad the fungus is. In some cases it can be, if it has not gone too far. Also for some lenses elements can be replaced.
Awesome & Thanks :)
No problem!
Awesome thanks, think I will just shop with you or other sellers who care about their reputation. Cheers
Thank you!
I should play this as background as a sort of meditation every time I look at a camera that I'm really excited about buying.
That was the intention.
you look thinner Bellamy. nice video btw
But what if I want my EXC+++ NO FUNGUS NO DUSTS lens with its free extra fungus and dust? As soon as I see mint with any additions I just ignore the seller.
If you want to buy from Japan online you will cull 99% of all sellers with that. I just ignore that and read the text. Japanese sellers are usually very meticulous in describing the camera and lens including all faults and problems. They seem to hate nothing more than bad ratings because of omitted facts about the offered piece.
The Japanese rating system is complex and has it's own quirks. Don't assume it's like any system that you are familiar with.
Postman patina
Ok give it a smell test ?!?!? Well that why ppl buy from JCH. No one else is willing to do that! :-)))
I honestly dont care about visuals, as long as it works.
Little bit of dust… it’s filthy
In the first bit, mic too close to the face, and in an awkward position. ouch.
No pleasing some people 😉
How can the sound still be so FLAT? I am sure there is a sound engineer out there that follows you. Please ask someone to help you. The sound is beyond terrible...