"I'm not a machinist." Well, you're doing a better impression of a machinist than many other so called machinists that I've met in my 30 year career as a tool and die maker. Thanks for the vid, I just picked up an 88. Great little shotgun.
Yeah, the kid did good. Had the drill chucked high, used the best fluid for the job, didn’t flood the workpiece with more fluid than needed, recovered like a pro from the chuck slipping on the drill. Used soft jaw pads for the vise, right on. The chuck-mounted tap holder was such a good idea. So slick and safe to do it that way. Beginners so often tap a canted hole manually. Not cheap though. The best tool, but not cheap. The biggest issue was not backing the tap off every quarter turn and breaking the chip. Since the material was thin, he got away with it. Always do that when tapping manually. Pro tips: If drilling and tapping aluminum, use the Tap Magic meant for aluminum. When clamping workpiece with the needle nose vise-grips, put two or three layers of dry paper towel material where vice-grips contact the surface of the workpiece. This prevents marking the finish. You had some friction when test-fitting the screw after tapping. It should be very smooth with no friction. This is from varying feed pressure on quill feed handle during tapping. Not really a problem. You can switch to a small precision tap wrench and chase rhe threads again to make them perfect, but not necessary in this case. But be careful if you do that. It’s a perfect way to ruin threads by cross-threading a tap while starting the chasing pass. (Been there, did that.) You had a problem with the drill slipping. Typical beginner thing. Here’s the fix. You see the three chuck key tightening holes in the Jacobs chuck? The right way to tighten it is to put the chuck key in one hole and tighten that b!tch good and tight, I mean like it owes you money, THEN do the same to the other two chuck key holes. You need to always tighten in all three chuck positions. That’s how you eliminate slip. In the second or third hole you’ll often feel more slack being taken up in the chuck. That’s the chuck mechanism truly developing a full and balanced grip on the drill shank. So now you know. After the first hole was drilled, tapped, and the fastener inserted and tightened, go to the far end and repeat. Then do the other fasteners in any order you like. By going to the far fastener, you pin the adapter rail down positionally. Then the other screws just help to secure alignment and mating to the receiver. The quality of job you did here is probably as good or better than quite a few guys who call themselves gunsmiths these days. Good work.
I took mine to a local gunsmith and they told me the maverick doesn't have enough beef in it to be drilled and tapped. They said after about 500 rounds the threads will start to loosen up. Just wondering how yours held up and if I should do it to mine?
That "gunsmith" is full of shit LMAO mossberg drills and taps all their current production model 500s, 835s and 590s to this drill pattern. The Maverick 88 uses the same basic receiver template as the 500 and 590 minus the machining needed for the tang safety. As long as you torque down the rail screws to the required torque and use blue loctite, whatever rail you have mounted should never budge.
Recievers are the same as the 500 +. Just not milled for tang safety as stated above. I was told not to worry about threading barrel cause I wouldn't need it for HD so I'm looking to thread that myself as well.
Well done. I have been thinking about putting a red dot on one of my 1100's and I'm not impressed with a lot of the pinned on hood type mounts. I've thought about drilling and tapping it, but haven't taken the time to figure out. I've done it on other actions, but never a shotgun. I really enjoyed watching you get it done.
How was your tapp bit marked and what size drill bit did you use? I'm hoping to tapp my Maverick 88, so I really need those specs! Thanks for a great video. God bless
He mentions it in the video but still Best check the screws that you have. incase they may be different. And for anyone that hasn’t in a while. please practice using a tap and die set on some scrap before you start hacking away on anything that you plan on keeping.
Your video would have been perfect if you had mentioned the size of the drill and tap that you used and where you got the tap adapter for the drill press...
Hadn't even ordered my Maverick yet, but good tutorial. 👍 Thread the barrel for to accept a choke next. Idk how much it'd cost to have done, but I'd like to have the feature on the 20" Security model.
@@BarikadeYeah. Chris did a good enough job as far as I'm concerned. Like he said though, for the price of tooling & fluid, it'll probably be cheaper to have it done by a Smith unless you have a few barrels to do. Found a Smith, named Michael Orlen, from the Shotgunworld forum, that only charges $80 per barrel + S&H and many many people swear he's a shotgun wizard. Haha
@@teknofiliakThank you for this tutorial. Will do the same to mine. Did you use locktite to screws? Is it safe to drill closer to the barrel? I want to use 12cm long picatinny.
I used blue loctite. I wouldn't see why it wouldn't be safe, but do it at your own risk. I had the barrel pulled out when I did all this stuff.@@metralf
Your 4way vice is not clap down or bolt 🔩🧐 on my small drill press i had to drill holes to put on my 4way 🗜️ vice. My big 5foot drill press came with one on it. They work great for milling small parts flat.
I lost something here.. Great video and you did a hell of a good job. My question is, you measured and drilled and tapped for the Pic Rail and didn't use it at the end.. Did I miss something?
I literally just used the pic rail as a template for the holes. I initially bought it to use, but then found the direct mount for my Vortex dot, so I went that direction. The pic rail was like $7, so I figured I'd just use it as somewhat of a sacrificial template.
Noted, I guess. It works out completely fine the way I did it. I was worried the flimsy pic rail could have some bend in it. If I did it your way, it's possible that I would have had misaligned holes.
@@teknofiliak yea true. I also noticed mine those little ridges aren’t true square with the barrel. Seems like it’s all plastic in that area. Guess I’m going to run a laser. Or pop a string. Idk.
Yeah, definitely an option. I think that looks awful, especially that Amazon junk optic. Not really what I wanted, as I wanted a low heigh over bore pistol optic on my shotgun.
@@teknofiliak It's reasonably easy to find a Romeo5 for close to $100 - that's what's on my 1301 Comp and will be adding one to the M88 I just ordered.
THose rails are absolute junk. You sight picture is wayyyy above the barrel. Youll end up shooting something right in front of you thinking you have a clear shot. His red dot is much more practical for a shotgun. Any hunter will tell you the drilled and tapped install with a lo profile reflex sight is better for killing stuff. same thing would apply for self defense so in no condition is that big honkin rail better. i had one on my 88 and it was AWFUL
The thing I'm most concerned about is the orientation of the pic rail/screw holes. It didn't sound like you were sure which end was the "front" or muzzle end.
"I'm not a machinist." Well, you're doing a better impression of a machinist than many other so called machinists that I've met in my 30 year career as a tool and die maker. Thanks for the vid, I just picked up an 88. Great little shotgun.
Thanks! I appreciate that!
Yeah, the kid did good. Had the drill chucked high, used the best fluid for the job, didn’t flood the workpiece with more fluid than needed, recovered like a pro from the chuck slipping on the drill. Used soft jaw pads for the vise, right on.
The chuck-mounted tap holder was such a good idea. So slick and safe to do it that way. Beginners so often tap a canted hole manually. Not cheap though. The best tool, but not cheap.
The biggest issue was not backing the tap off every quarter turn and breaking the chip. Since the material was thin, he got away with it. Always do that when tapping manually.
Pro tips:
If drilling and tapping aluminum, use the Tap Magic meant for aluminum.
When clamping workpiece with the needle nose vise-grips, put two or three layers of dry paper towel material where vice-grips contact the surface of the workpiece. This prevents marking the finish.
You had some friction when test-fitting the screw after tapping. It should be very smooth with no friction. This is from varying feed pressure on quill feed handle during tapping. Not really a problem. You can switch to a small precision tap wrench and chase rhe threads again to make them perfect, but not necessary in this case. But be careful if you do that. It’s a perfect way to ruin threads by cross-threading a tap while starting the chasing pass. (Been there, did that.)
You had a problem with the drill slipping. Typical beginner thing. Here’s the fix. You see the three chuck key tightening holes in the Jacobs chuck? The right way to tighten it is to put the chuck key in one hole and tighten that b!tch good and tight, I mean like it owes you money, THEN do the same to the other two chuck key holes. You need to always tighten in all three chuck positions. That’s how you eliminate slip. In the second or third hole you’ll often feel more slack being taken up in the chuck. That’s the chuck mechanism truly developing a full and balanced grip on the drill shank. So now you know.
After the first hole was drilled, tapped, and the fastener inserted and tightened, go to the far end and repeat. Then do the other fasteners in any order you like. By going to the far fastener, you pin the adapter rail down positionally. Then the other screws just help to secure alignment and mating to the receiver.
The quality of job you did here is probably as good or better than quite a few guys who call themselves gunsmiths these days.
Good work.
yeeaaa I'm just gonna send mine to a gun smith to do this. I don't trust myself and my OCD will not allow a slightly skewed rail lol.
Thank you so much for this!
I took mine to a local gunsmith and they told me the maverick doesn't have enough beef in it to be drilled and tapped. They said after about 500 rounds the threads will start to loosen up. Just wondering how yours held up and if I should do it to mine?
That "gunsmith" is full of shit LMAO mossberg drills and taps all their current production model 500s, 835s and 590s to this drill pattern. The Maverick 88 uses the same basic receiver template as the 500 and 590 minus the machining needed for the tang safety. As long as you torque down the rail screws to the required torque and use blue loctite, whatever rail you have mounted should never budge.
Recievers are the same as the 500 +. Just not milled for tang safety as stated above. I was told not to worry about threading barrel cause I wouldn't need it for HD so I'm looking to thread that myself as well.
Right on man. Now that was helpful, Going to do that to mine.
Post a video!
Monstrums are the most innnteresting pic rails.
Well done. I have been thinking about putting a red dot on one of my 1100's and I'm not impressed with a lot of the pinned on hood type mounts. I've thought about drilling and tapping it, but haven't taken the time to figure out. I've done it on other actions, but never a shotgun. I really enjoyed watching you get it done.
Thanks!
Does anyone ever film a moment of untruth?
Dude you are brave! Good job
Eh, it's a pretty cheap shotgun. Worst case scenario, I had a shotgun with misaligned holes on the top! :D
Big question those drill and tap sizes work for all optic screws? I want to drill and tap a revolver for a optic plate
@@AllSoWavyReese It would definitely depend on the screws for your specific optic plate.
How was your tapp bit marked and what size drill bit did you use? I'm hoping to tapp my Maverick 88, so I really need those specs! Thanks for a great video. God bless
Just saw this. 8-40 tap and #28 drill bit.
He mentions it in the video but still Best check the screws that you have. incase they may be different. And for anyone that hasn’t in a while. please practice using a tap and die set on some scrap before you start hacking away on anything that you plan on keeping.
Your video would have been perfect if you had mentioned the size of the drill and tap that you used and where you got the tap adapter for the drill press...
8-40 Tap and Number 28 Drill bit. Got both on Amazon. I don't think brand matters.
He did: 0:48
Hey question… where did you get your drill and tap bits from? And also the machinist tap handle?
There's a reply to another comment with that info.
Wished mine were drilled, but no gunsmiths here and I don't have the tools. Keep up the videos on the 88, waiting for more.
harbor freight. 10" drill press and cheap tapping kit for less than $150
Good prep and approach, imo! Ty for the video.
Thanks!
Great instructions. How is the $20 red dot holding up to the 12 gauge recoil?
Vortex isn't a $20 red dot.
@@teknofiliak , oh, $20 mount. My bad. Which model red dot are you using? How is it holding up?
Hadn't even ordered my Maverick yet, but good tutorial. 👍
Thread the barrel for to accept a choke next. Idk how much it'd cost to have done, but I'd like to have the feature on the 20" Security model.
You can rent the items needed to thread the barrel yourself from Brownells
Lucky gunner has a video up on how to do it. And drill and tap for a mount👍🏽
@@BarikadeYeah. Chris did a good enough job as far as I'm concerned. Like he said though, for the price of tooling & fluid, it'll probably be cheaper to have it done by a Smith unless you have a few barrels to do. Found a Smith, named Michael Orlen, from the Shotgunworld forum, that only charges $80 per barrel + S&H and many many people swear he's a shotgun wizard. Haha
@@CarlPapa88 oh awesome. With NY inflation I'd be lucky to find one for around that much. Awesome brother 👍🏽
I think you did a great job! You definitely helped me out? I’m gonna be pretty much doing the same thing! Thanks for the info!
You got it!
@@teknofiliakThank you for this tutorial. Will do the same to mine. Did you use locktite to screws? Is it safe to drill closer to the barrel? I want to use 12cm long picatinny.
I used blue loctite. I wouldn't see why it wouldn't be safe, but do it at your own risk. I had the barrel pulled out when I did all this stuff.@@metralf
Your 4way vice is not clap down or bolt 🔩🧐 on my small drill press i had to drill holes to put on my 4way 🗜️ vice. My big 5foot drill press came with one on it. They work great for milling small parts flat.
Nope. Really just used the vise as a second set of hands. Not doing milling with it.
Great job great job
I lost something here.. Great video and you did a hell of a good job. My question is, you measured and drilled and tapped for the Pic Rail and didn't use it at the end.. Did I miss something?
I literally just used the pic rail as a template for the holes. I initially bought it to use, but then found the direct mount for my Vortex dot, so I went that direction. The pic rail was like $7, so I figured I'd just use it as somewhat of a sacrificial template.
Just one more question. I heard you say an 8-40 tap. Or was that a 1/8 40 tap. I’m about to tackle it finally. I think
8-40
I am going to do this to my 88 good idea. Thanks for the video. Did you try it yet ?
Should have drilled the second hole at the other end. Then you do the remaining two holes in the middle.
Noted, I guess. It works out completely fine the way I did it. I was worried the flimsy pic rail could have some bend in it. If I did it your way, it's possible that I would have had misaligned holes.
Great tutorial. Thanks.
Absolutely!
Good work😊
Nice. But could one get away from removing everything out of the reciever ? I guess there is no escape cleaning the shavings either way
Yeah, I wouldn't do it without removing the bolt. Would be awful if you drilled into the bolt. :D
@@teknofiliak yea true. I also noticed mine those little ridges aren’t true square with the barrel. Seems like it’s all plastic in that area. Guess I’m going to run a laser. Or pop a string. Idk.
What speed did you run your drill press at?
Not entirely sure. Just a medium speed. It's just a WEN press. Nothing exciting.
Omg. No 😭
Why Omg no?
If it works, it works.
Here's the non-invasive and reversible way to add a pic rail to the M88 - ruclips.net/video/Zifv5ItQ1i8/видео.html
Yeah, definitely an option. I think that looks awful, especially that Amazon junk optic. Not really what I wanted, as I wanted a low heigh over bore pistol optic on my shotgun.
@@teknofiliak It's reasonably easy to find a Romeo5 for close to $100 - that's what's on my 1301 Comp and will be adding one to the M88 I just ordered.
@@rfdsrd Yeah, I have a few Romeos. I preferred the more open pistol dot on this shotgun.
THose rails are absolute junk.
You sight picture is wayyyy above the barrel. Youll end up shooting something right in front of you thinking you have a clear shot.
His red dot is much more practical for a shotgun. Any hunter will tell you the drilled and tapped install with a lo profile reflex sight is better for killing stuff. same thing would apply for self defense so in no condition is that big honkin rail better. i had one on my 88 and it was AWFUL
The thing I'm most concerned about is the orientation of the pic rail/screw holes. It didn't sound like you were sure which end was the "front" or muzzle end.