I’ve got a Kobra max that I’m doing a very similar upgrade to. But also doing linear rail conversion, closed loop steppers, pei and g10 build plates, beacon rev h board. Custom print head with the original v6 hot end upgraded to the CHC pro 115w, orbiter+sensor+turbiter, 2x 4020 blowers 4010 hotend fan, ebb42 can, manta M8p v2 with cb1 emmc. Your print head is clean my guy. Excited to see more from you.
Hey man, thanks so much for you comment! Keeps me motivated to keep working on these. Currently working on a video to talk about the BTT Relay V1.2. Should be a decent one. In the next month or so I'll be releasing both an EBB42 specific video to talk about it/go over how to properly use it. The big one in the works is upgrading the electronics on my printer. I've got the Manta E3EZ, which I don't think I like now that I've had time to think about it. Moving forward I'll likely only consider boards that don't have pi's on board. Cool idea, but the whole issue of having to shutdown the pi if you want to turn the printer off is a slight turnoff. Maybe if I can find a way to keep the power consumption low, I'll change my mind. Also adding some fans to quiet things down. Also have an awesome enclosure designed for it! Thanks for talking about your printer. I didn't have the turbiter on my radar but that will be seriously helpful down the line as I've been designing a heated enclosure I plan to build. The beacon is a seriously cool upgrade, I'm pretty sure I'd considered it, but couldn't quite afford it at the time. If you decide to make a video of your own then let me know. Would love to see this badass upgrade!
Excited to see your upcoming videos, and yeah I may end up moving the CB1 onto an external kipper pad 7 to solve that issue. Literally have one in a drawer just hadn’t decided if it was necessary or not. Yeah turbiter is an absolute necessity for heated enclosures. Glad I could put it on your radar. I’ll probably give a basic overview video of the printer when I get everything together, and if people are interested to a significant degree I’ll break down the redesign process a bit more. Probably won’t be as mainstream of a video as yours because I designed a print head and carriage system that is pretty much exclusively usable to my config but I guess we’ll see what the people desire 😂 thanks again man for your time.
Awesome! I just subbed to you, so I'll be waiting for that video to come out! I can see why you think designing your own may make it less accessible. But, I think it actually makes the entire thing more interesting. Modular (my case) comes at the cost of needing to be generic to the point that it's not the optimal solution in any case. I was thinking of trying to create my own print head, either entirely custom, or utilizing certain parts of the HeroMe. Not sure yet as that is way down the project pipeline at the moment.
@@SpencersDeskease of access vs optimization is always a tough descision but yeah when I get it up I’ll shoot you a reply or something but it’ll be atleast 2 weeks from now. Thanks for being so motivating!
Just today I was enthusing to my son about how I was thinking of frankensteining an old i3 clone I have (which has good bones). He tried to pour cold water on my noodling by pointing out that I already don't use my Voron fulltime. So I'm out here reviewing crazy project videos to keep my momentum going :-). That toolhead is awesome, it's like the frame just exists to support the toolhead.
I personally enjoy the tinkering more than the printing! So I say go for it! I think having a specific goal for what you want the printer to do it a good idea too!
6:33 It's most likely caused by the motion system instead of the print head. Check out resonance compensation of the klipper firmware. Also I would suggest you to enclose your printer. ASA/ABS filament will either wrap badly or have abysmal layer adhesion when being printed without an enclosure. Enclosure also help at reduce the smell and noise while printing.
Hey, thanks for your comment! I solved my skipping issue by reducing the acceleration in the y-axis. I still don’t know where the issue came from, as it wasn’t present before. Just started happening one day. I believe input shaper would actually put more stress on the system so am avoiding that for now. Down the road I’ll upgrade the steppers to higher torque ones so I can push the printer a bit harder. As to the enclosure, that’s actually something I’ve been busy designing lately. I really want to print with a spool of PA12-CF that I found which will be much easier with an enclosure. Also planning things like an overhead dry storage that feed into the enclosure and a built in electronics enclosure. If you’re interested then stick around (;
@@SpencersDesk Input shaper doesn't necessarily put more strain on your motion system, and it is really effective at reducing ringing artifacts. IMHO upgrading motors most likely won't improve the actual print speed and quality that much. The root cause of those rining artifacts is the insufficiently rigid frame, and that would also limit the maximum acceleration of your printer, even with input shaper and powerful motors. It's not an easy task to make a bed slinger frame stiff enough for high speed printing.
I would still disagree with the input shaping at high speeds. High speeds can only be achieved if you’ve got stepper motors with enough torque to achieve high accelerations. I would watch a video by VZ3D about LDO motor upgrade. He shows this experimentally. I’d agree they don’t improve print quality directly, unless you go for a 0.9 degree step size. Input shaping would require even a little bit more acceleration to cancel out ringing. I also wouldn’t fully blame rigidity for ringing. There’s also the fact that printers are typically belt driven. The belts have elasticity which introduces ringing. I agree the print speed for bed slingers is tough to increase, but I don’t believe rigidity is the first road block. I believe the first is just the mass of the bed. That’s a lot of mass to move quickly. Anecdotally, my Ystepper gets much hotter than my x and cant achieve the accelerations my x axis does. I will be implementing input shaping, but right now I don’t want to put my Adxl on the bed as I’m waiting to upgrade the electronics of the printer soon. I appreciate the discussion!!
just subscribed to your channel mate😊 a Pro Tip: use same or more capable current (amp) output LDO instead of voltage divider series of resistors😉 it will be more professional but don't forget to add source to 100nF tantalum capacitor to 470uF and then to LDO then 100nF tantalum again to 470uF capacitor voltage regulation and filtering circuit😉
Thank you! Just to clarify, the voltage divider is to step down the voltage to the filament runout sensor, not to the stepper motor! Unfortunately I needed a 3.3V source… since then I got small buck converter boards to do the job in a more professional manner. I’ll leave the more complex electronics to people like you! (For now ;))
@@SpencersDesk mate I am Senior Programmer and electromechanical engineer but I don't know everything infact I love to learn😊 I wasn't trying to teach you its not my cup of coffee mate, I was only trying to help😉 if I offended you somehow I am sorry, my apologies.Keep the Quality content coming!👌👍
No no! Not offended at all. I think you thought I was using a voltage divider to power the stepper motor though. Which is not a great idea lol. The circuit only has a few milliamps passing through it. I very much appreciate the comment and am grateful to have you as a viewer!
Hello :) Planning out my hotend remake! Do you think the btt EBB36 would work? - For three fans, the hotend, and a probe. Also, I'm planning on using the new btt EDDY coil levelling sensor which runs on 5v. Do I need to modify the voltage from the CAN board like you did in the video?
Hey! So exciting! I don't believe there is any difference between the EBB42 and the EBB36 besides their shape! I used a hotend fan and two part cooling fans. The EBBs only have 2 fan headers, so I'd recommend using one for the hotend fan, then combining the two part cooling fans into one header. I'm pretty sure I did that in this video! The board will use 5V power so you won't have to worry about that. I had to adjust the power to 3.3V because I think the Orbiter Filament Sensor didn't like to have a 3.3V logic line and a 5V power line. You shouldn't have to do that for the EDDY coil! Best of luck!
Hey! I forget the exact file name, but it was 45 degree or 54 degree something. I'm actually working on an updated HeroMe video where you'll get to see the updated setup so stay tuned ;)
Simple question! Where can I find the 5015 fans you used, and what fan would you use if it shouldn't be the noctua in the middle? (So i dont need a buck converter)
Hey, I just threw some links in the description for your use! the one I'd recommend if you're following this project, using the HeroMe Gen7 suite, is the Winsinn 5015 Blower Fans for part cooling and the Winsinn 4010 fan for cooling the hotend. I'm planning on switching the hotend fan to a Slice Engineering Mosquito 24V cooling fan in the future but that will require a custom print head to be designed. Hope that helps!
Hello :) I'm getting ready for modding my Vypers hotend myself, and I'm about to print the Hero Me print head. I'm exited but confused. There is so many files, and I'm quite honestly getting overwhelmed. I hope you can help me by listing what parts you have printed for your system to work. Of course my final version will be different, but you could still help me get an idea on where to start as I will only be changing a couple things on your design. I'm planning on using the stock hotend (for now). 2x 5015 part cooling fans. 1x 4010 fan for heat sink cooling. (Or whatever the stock on the Vyper is?) A mount for the orbiter extruder with an EBB board on the back of it. And a mount for an endoscope and a btt eddy sensor. Thanks in advance :D
Hey friend, I apologize for ignoring you, but I wanted to wait to respond until I posted my latest video. I was making it when I received your comment! It’s about the Hero Me and will hopefully solve your problem ;) If it doesn’t, drop me another comment here and I’ll do my best to help you out!
@@SpencersDesk Of course! I appreciate that you still replied to my comment, even though you posted a whole video about my problem. I will definitely watch it tomorrow! Thank you :D
I hope PCTG catches on but right now it's over twice the cost of PETG so right now either PETG or ABS for me until more companies start making and competing with PCTG.
Me too! I wanted to make a video investing if it was any better. Maybe it just needs some more exposure. I haven’t printed with ABS before. I’m hoping to try it out once I get an enclosure and air filtration!
Ouff. Hello. I just woke up to you talking about 3D printer upgrades. Fell asleep and RUclips decided I needed to learn something different today and chose your channel 😂 I will rewatch because I was sleeping the first time. Oh wow. You’ve just implanted a ton of new ideas into my head. Had no idea what CAN was, very intriguing. How do you like the direct drive vs Bowden? On my old printer direct just worked no issues but it was loud because the whole assembly was so heavy. Bowden made it more accurate and way more silent but also so much harder to get (and keep) running
I appreciate the rewatch😂 I’m surprised you had improved accuracy with a Bowden setup. From my understanding, a Bowden setup allows your gantry to move quicker but hurts your print quality. Direct drive for example requires much lower retraction and pressure advance values. I definitely prefer direct drive. The orbiter sensor addition is also super convenient when it comes to switching/unloading filaments. I’m curious, what was noisy about your printer that Bowden fixed? Was it mechanical noise from the movement of the gantry or was it noise from the stepper motors?
I blew my E3S1 breakout board and could repair it, but lost my part cooling fan control. The cheapest way to replace the breakout board in my area is the ebb boards. Seeing your video gives me a lot more confidence to replace my burnt board. I had many questions like what wires to use and can I add another adxl to do input shaping for both axes,etc. After seeing you go through the whole process, the procedure seems less daunting.
I’m so glad I was able to put you at ease! If you ever have questions about how I set it up that weren’t answered in this video then let me know! I’ll be making videos on specific parts I went over but in more detail. I’ve not published many videos as my schooling has required a lot of attention this year.
@@SpencersDesk Hey I had a question about the ebb boards. They come in either with Max 31865 chip or without. I've a n E3S1+ would I require the max 31865 chip?
I’m pretty sure you only need the MAX31865 if you elect to use a PT100 thermistor. My gut feeling is that you don’t need one for an Ender (just assuming they don’t use PTs) but I would double check. Sorry, I’m not too familiar with the Enders!
@@SpencersDeskHey I started with the changeover to CAN, but I can't find the pinout for the E-motor anywhere. Could you help me with this information? Thanks
Hey Spencer! I just found your channel and fits me perfectly because I want to make those exactly mods to my Kobra Go lol Can you recommend me a crimper for making Dupont and JST connectors? thanks!
Hey man! So glad to have you as a viewer! If you check the description of my “how I control my 3D printer’s power” I should have some Amazon affiliate links in the description! I also have a new video coming out today or tomorrow which will have them as well. Let me know if you have any other questions!
I found that TMC2209's skip steps really easily in stealthchop mode if you try printing fast. I run mine in spreadcycle and they never skip steps for me at extreme speeds.
I believe the point of stealth chop is to run the printer at moderate to low speeds, and have a very quiet printing experience. If I could use gcode to have a slow and silent profile that switched from spread cycle to stealth, I might use it. But, until them, I’m also using spread cycle!
@@SpencersDesk I tried mine in stealthchop at slow speeds but it still skipped for me. It could be because I had sensorless homing enabled, but I'm not sure if that was the cause since it did not happen in spreadcycle with sensorless homing.
I don’t know much about sensorless homing (yet) but I think there’s something you have to tune which cause it to recognize the amount of resistance that means it’s homed. I wonder if that was the issue? Was it the bed of a bed slinger or the x-axis too?
@@SpencersDesk There are many things you need to do for sensorless homing. Homing speed, sensitivity, motor current, and a few other things to factor in. I setup a homing macro to lower current and acceleration so homing is more reliable. Oh, and mine is a CoreXY. not a bedslinger
that boy is thicc! Is there any loss of Y-axis build volume? im thinking of having a similar build on ender 3. But my concern is that having ebb42 behind the extruder might reducing the Y-axis volume
Hey! I don’t think there would be any appreciable loss. The only loss would stem from the HeroMe Gen7 stuff. Definitely looks thicc but is not too heavy! Thanks for your comment!
Spencer, I am pretty sure this is the only RUclips video about installing Orbiter on Vyper. How do I know? I searched. A lot. I am running a freakishly similar upgrade process and encountering all the roadblocks as the ones you have discovered... My Vyper initially was upgraded with an all-metal hotend (Revo Six) and a HeroMe - based part cooling setup for dual 5015 fans. This upgrade already solved so many Vyper problems! The stock Volcano hotend tends to "ooze" a lot of filament, hence the stringing. The bowden tube tends to be burned after a few months, contributing to the clogs. After the upgrade, I was super happy with PETG printing, getting almost no stringing. I am yet to switch to Klipper on the Vyper, but already have MainsailOS prepared and set up on a Pi... Now comes Orbiter 2.0. I really wanted a direct drive setup to reliably print flexibles and have more control over pressure advance, etc. I printed all the necessary HeroMe 7 parts to install Orbiter. The first problem happened during the assembly. Not sure if it's a issue with Hero Me 7 1.0, or whether it was designed for an older Vyper, but Orbiter didn't mount because of lack of clearance from the massive printhead connector. I eventually realised that it only needed ~2 extra mm of clearance, so used m3 nuts as extra "raisers / washers" to move both the hotend (actually, the strain gauge itself) and the HeroMe unit away from the gantry. Finally, it has mounted! Now to the saddest part... As you mentioned, the strain gauge is not designed to work with direct drive. This rigid setup pretty much prevents it from bending and registering the probe touching the plate. My first attempt at auto bed leveling left a series of deep dents in my plate... Now I was wondering whether I could squeeze in BlTouch and how on Earth would I find extra pins on this print head for that... And here comes your video. Yes we CAN! I will start ordering some parts tonight... Once again, a massive thank you! I would have shared photos of my setup, but I don't think it's possible on RUclips. But happy to chat if you would like to discuss the Vyper. PS: Maybe, instead of the rollers, you should consider linear rails as a more robust / precise motion system? PPS: Also, I don't think your problem was with stepper drivers, as the upgrade should not have touched them?
Thanks so much for your comment! If you’re using the HeroMe7 then there should be a few different mounts for the orbiter extruder. Some are thicker than others and some turn the orbiter around if you have clearance issues. There’s also a part that is just an extender! Not sure if these help since you’re using the strain gauge. If you want to skip the EBB42 or other CAN solution, you could implement a BLTouch or similar upgrade without it. It has plenty of wiring to make it to the motherboard or a pi if you follow through with klipper (which I can’t recommend more!). The CAN part is not necessary but I definitely like it so far! Maybe I can setup a discord if people want to discuss things further, I’ll let you know! As for the v-slot wheels, I’m not the biggest fan as they’re the largest source of slop on my print head remaining (I think). Linear rails are quite pricy and I’m still brainstorming a method of mounting them. All I can think of is making some custom aluminum plates using household tools. For now I believe I’ll upgrade to PC wheels if the problem gets worse. I still believe it is something with the motherboard/drivers. My solution for now was to turn down the bed acceleration. It used to work but all of a sudden started to skip. I think I mentioned that more as a background for why I started the upgrading. But now I see I never really tied up that loose end. Still learning to RUclips lol!
@@SpencersDesk Thanks for the idea of connecting a probe to a Pi, I will give it a go! Yes, I will proceed with Klipper install for now. Linear rails can be easily mounted to extrusions using sliding t-nuts (according to Teaching Tech videos, I haven't tried this myself yet). Another cool suggestion from some of Teaching Tech comments was to embed threaded inserts directly into 5015 fan casings, making their mounting easier (without fiddly nuts). Also, I forgot to mention one thing: it sounds like you power your filament sensor via a voltage divider? This is not recommended in electronics, as any load applied to the "divided" part would change its resistance, "shifting" the voltage equation. Dividers are only useful for measuring voltage, you might need to consider a buck converter for powering the sensor. Last but not least, there is "Anycubic Vyper 3D Printer User Group" on FB - people sometimes share some cool Vyper upgrades there (and creators of HeroMe and Stealthburner PCB for Vyper post their updates, too). You would probably get a lot of followers if you share your video there. If you don't use FB, I can post it myself.
@@VitalyBrusentsev I didn't know that he had made a video on them, I'll check it out! I'll definitely use the heated insert trick too. I'm planning on making a video that talks more about the HeroMe Gen 7 suite so maybe I'll do it then! As for the voltage divider, could you send me a resource for the phenomenon you're referring to? I'm a physicist, not an engineer, so it's very likely that I'm living in my ideal world and overlooking the actual practical knowledge that I need😉I'd definitely prefer/am planning to use a buck converter, but I didn't have anything on hand that was going to give me the output I needed. So for now I'm stuck with my voltage divider. But hey, it works so far! No, I'm not on Facebook. If you could post it for me, I would be exceedingly grateful!
@@SpencersDesk RUclips seems to have blocked my reply with a link, but googling "voltage divider under load" returns some good results. I am not a pro in electronics myself, you probably know more judging by this video :)
Sorry I never saw this! I’m still figuring out RUclips haha! I did take a look at that, I guess I never knew the term applied to this. “Unloaded” voltage divider basically assume the load is ideal (infinite resistance). What I should’ve done is measure the resistance into the sensor, made the parallel resistor higher (so that most of the current would go through the load) then use the series resistor to adjust the voltage drop over the load. Thanks for the heads up! Best practice is always to use something like an IC. I’m planning on replacing this with a buck when I redesign my printhead!
Generally not a good idea to use a resistor divider for a voltage, unless you know exactly how much power the load will draw and that it will always draw that power. A better choice would be to replace the lower resistor with a zener diode and use a smaller resistor for the upper, to match the zener’s design current. Even better is a simple linear dropout regulator (LDO), or a switching regulator. There are many small ones available.
I definitely prefer using LDOs but I wasn’t keen on waiting for anything I ordered haha. This worked in a pinch and I haven’t had problems with it since, thankfully! Good info, thanks
You need to adjust your vref for you stepper motor s that’s why your having issues with stepper drivers overheating. You need an umbilical cable with four 20 AWG conductors with one twisted pair.
Thanks, I'll definitely check that out. The odd thing is that it only started acting that way well over a year of owning the Vyper. I mentioned that I was going to make another video in the future where I actually address that issue (as it clearly was not addressed in this one). As for the cables, are you referring to the cable going to the motor or the cable going to the print head? I've got the power and ground to the print head at 20AWG and the communication wires at 24AWG. 20-22AWG should be fine to my motors as they're not being pushed awfully hard. Thanks for your comment!
You definitely should NOT twist the power wires around your CAN comes wires. The power wires on 3d printers are extremely noisy due to the stepper motors which can easily couple over to your comms if you wrap it like that. Also, the voltage divider used to get 3 volts isn't a good idea. The voltage isn't going to be stable and will move up and down with the current draw. You should instead use a level shifter circuit to shift the 3v logic upto 5v.
Thanks for the comments! I addressed the silly CAN twisting in one of my more recent videos. It never ended up causing issues but I changed it on principle. As to the voltage divider, the sensor only pulls a couple mA as far as I’m aware so I haven’t worried about it too much. I got some very small 5->3.3 bucks that I’ll implement down the road. But the level shifting is also a good idea! Thanks!
What kind of mods are you planning to add to your printers?
I’ve got a Kobra max that I’m doing a very similar upgrade to. But also doing linear rail conversion, closed loop steppers, pei and g10 build plates, beacon rev h board. Custom print head with the original v6 hot end upgraded to the CHC pro 115w, orbiter+sensor+turbiter, 2x 4020 blowers 4010 hotend fan, ebb42 can, manta M8p v2 with cb1 emmc. Your print head is clean my guy. Excited to see more from you.
Hey man, thanks so much for you comment! Keeps me motivated to keep working on these. Currently working on a video to talk about the BTT Relay V1.2. Should be a decent one. In the next month or so I'll be releasing both an EBB42 specific video to talk about it/go over how to properly use it.
The big one in the works is upgrading the electronics on my printer. I've got the Manta E3EZ, which I don't think I like now that I've had time to think about it. Moving forward I'll likely only consider boards that don't have pi's on board. Cool idea, but the whole issue of having to shutdown the pi if you want to turn the printer off is a slight turnoff. Maybe if I can find a way to keep the power consumption low, I'll change my mind. Also adding some fans to quiet things down. Also have an awesome enclosure designed for it!
Thanks for talking about your printer. I didn't have the turbiter on my radar but that will be seriously helpful down the line as I've been designing a heated enclosure I plan to build. The beacon is a seriously cool upgrade, I'm pretty sure I'd considered it, but couldn't quite afford it at the time.
If you decide to make a video of your own then let me know. Would love to see this badass upgrade!
Excited to see your upcoming videos, and yeah I may end up moving the CB1 onto an external kipper pad 7 to solve that issue. Literally have one in a drawer just hadn’t decided if it was necessary or not.
Yeah turbiter is an absolute necessity for heated enclosures. Glad I could put it on your radar.
I’ll probably give a basic overview video of the printer when I get everything together, and if people are interested to a significant degree I’ll break down the redesign process a bit more.
Probably won’t be as mainstream of a video as yours because I designed a print head and carriage system that is pretty much exclusively usable to my config but I guess we’ll see what the people desire 😂
thanks again man for your time.
Awesome! I just subbed to you, so I'll be waiting for that video to come out!
I can see why you think designing your own may make it less accessible. But, I think it actually makes the entire thing more interesting. Modular (my case) comes at the cost of needing to be generic to the point that it's not the optimal solution in any case. I was thinking of trying to create my own print head, either entirely custom, or utilizing certain parts of the HeroMe. Not sure yet as that is way down the project pipeline at the moment.
@@SpencersDeskease of access vs optimization is always a tough descision but yeah when I get it up I’ll shoot you a reply or something but it’ll be atleast 2 weeks from now. Thanks for being so motivating!
That's a gorgeous calathea majestica you've got there, looks really healthy and happy (which is no small feat. that plant is a drama queen)
Haha, the simulated sound effects are top class. Great video
Haha, glad you enjoyed!
Just today I was enthusing to my son about how I was thinking of frankensteining an old i3 clone I have (which has good bones). He tried to pour cold water on my noodling by pointing out that I already don't use my Voron fulltime. So I'm out here reviewing crazy project videos to keep my momentum going :-).
That toolhead is awesome, it's like the frame just exists to support the toolhead.
I personally enjoy the tinkering more than the printing! So I say go for it! I think having a specific goal for what you want the printer to do it a good idea too!
6:33 It's most likely caused by the motion system instead of the print head. Check out resonance compensation of the klipper firmware.
Also I would suggest you to enclose your printer. ASA/ABS filament will either wrap badly or have abysmal layer adhesion when being printed without an enclosure. Enclosure also help at reduce the smell and noise while printing.
Hey, thanks for your comment! I solved my skipping issue by reducing the acceleration in the y-axis. I still don’t know where the issue came from, as it wasn’t present before. Just started happening one day. I believe input shaper would actually put more stress on the system so am avoiding that for now. Down the road I’ll upgrade the steppers to higher torque ones so I can push the printer a bit harder.
As to the enclosure, that’s actually something I’ve been busy designing lately. I really want to print with a spool of PA12-CF that I found which will be much easier with an enclosure. Also planning things like an overhead dry storage that feed into the enclosure and a built in electronics enclosure. If you’re interested then stick around (;
@@SpencersDesk Input shaper doesn't necessarily put more strain on your motion system, and it is really effective at reducing ringing artifacts. IMHO upgrading motors most likely won't improve the actual print speed and quality that much. The root cause of those rining artifacts is the insufficiently rigid frame, and that would also limit the maximum acceleration of your printer, even with input shaper and powerful motors. It's not an easy task to make a bed slinger frame stiff enough for high speed printing.
I would still disagree with the input shaping at high speeds. High speeds can only be achieved if you’ve got stepper motors with enough torque to achieve high accelerations. I would watch a video by VZ3D about LDO motor upgrade. He shows this experimentally. I’d agree they don’t improve print quality directly, unless you go for a 0.9 degree step size. Input shaping would require even a little bit more acceleration to cancel out ringing. I also wouldn’t fully blame rigidity for ringing. There’s also the fact that printers are typically belt driven. The belts have elasticity which introduces ringing. I agree the print speed for bed slingers is tough to increase, but I don’t believe rigidity is the first road block. I believe the first is just the mass of the bed. That’s a lot of mass to move quickly. Anecdotally, my Ystepper gets much hotter than my x and cant achieve the accelerations my x axis does.
I will be implementing input shaping, but right now I don’t want to put my Adxl on the bed as I’m waiting to upgrade the electronics of the printer soon. I appreciate the discussion!!
The outro music is my favorite part of this video!
just subscribed to your channel mate😊 a Pro Tip: use same or more capable current (amp) output LDO instead of voltage divider series of resistors😉 it will be more professional but don't forget to add source to 100nF tantalum capacitor to 470uF and then to LDO then 100nF tantalum again to 470uF capacitor voltage regulation and filtering circuit😉
Thank you! Just to clarify, the voltage divider is to step down the voltage to the filament runout sensor, not to the stepper motor! Unfortunately I needed a 3.3V source… since then I got small buck converter boards to do the job in a more professional manner. I’ll leave the more complex electronics to people like you! (For now ;))
@@SpencersDesk mate I am Senior Programmer and electromechanical engineer but I don't know everything infact I love to learn😊 I wasn't trying to teach you its not my cup of coffee mate, I was only trying to help😉 if I offended you somehow I am sorry, my apologies.Keep the Quality content coming!👌👍
No no! Not offended at all. I think you thought I was using a voltage divider to power the stepper motor though. Which is not a great idea lol. The circuit only has a few milliamps passing through it. I very much appreciate the comment and am grateful to have you as a viewer!
Hello :)
Planning out my hotend remake! Do you think the btt EBB36 would work? - For three fans, the hotend, and a probe.
Also, I'm planning on using the new btt EDDY coil levelling sensor which runs on 5v. Do I need to modify the voltage from the CAN board like you did in the video?
Hey! So exciting! I don't believe there is any difference between the EBB42 and the EBB36 besides their shape! I used a hotend fan and two part cooling fans. The EBBs only have 2 fan headers, so I'd recommend using one for the hotend fan, then combining the two part cooling fans into one header. I'm pretty sure I did that in this video!
The board will use 5V power so you won't have to worry about that. I had to adjust the power to 3.3V because I think the Orbiter Filament Sensor didn't like to have a 3.3V logic line and a 5V power line. You shouldn't have to do that for the EDDY coil!
Best of luck!
@@SpencersDesk Exiting :O
Thank you for your fast and detailed answer!
Have a wonderful day :D
I feel you. I've recently gone down a rabbit hole modding my mega zero. It's a game of whack-a-mole
We are just slowly building a printer from the ground up, haha. That’s my excuse these days
Love this. Which BL touch mount did you use? I'm doing a similar setup on my vyper
Hey! I forget the exact file name, but it was 45 degree or 54 degree something. I'm actually working on an updated HeroMe video where you'll get to see the updated setup so stay tuned ;)
@@SpencersDeskthankyou and ooh nice. Look forward to it, subbed 👍
Simple question!
Where can I find the 5015 fans you used, and what fan would you use if it shouldn't be the noctua in the middle? (So i dont need a buck converter)
Hey, I just threw some links in the description for your use! the one I'd recommend if you're following this project, using the HeroMe Gen7 suite, is the Winsinn 5015 Blower Fans for part cooling and the Winsinn 4010 fan for cooling the hotend. I'm planning on switching the hotend fan to a Slice Engineering Mosquito 24V cooling fan in the future but that will require a custom print head to be designed. Hope that helps!
@@SpencersDesk Thank you! Will look into it later :D
Hello :)
I'm getting ready for modding my Vypers hotend myself, and I'm about to print the Hero Me print head.
I'm exited but confused. There is so many files, and I'm quite honestly getting overwhelmed. I hope you can help me by listing what parts you have printed for your system to work.
Of course my final version will be different, but you could still help me get an idea on where to start as I will only be changing a couple things on your design.
I'm planning on using the stock hotend (for now).
2x 5015 part cooling fans.
1x 4010 fan for heat sink cooling. (Or whatever the stock on the Vyper is?)
A mount for the orbiter extruder with an EBB board on the back of it.
And a mount for an endoscope and a btt eddy sensor.
Thanks in advance :D
Hey friend, I apologize for ignoring you, but I wanted to wait to respond until I posted my latest video. I was making it when I received your comment! It’s about the Hero Me and will hopefully solve your problem ;) If it doesn’t, drop me another comment here and I’ll do my best to help you out!
@@SpencersDesk Of course!
I appreciate that you still replied to my comment, even though you posted a whole video about my problem. I will definitely watch it tomorrow!
Thank you :D
I hope PCTG catches on but right now it's over twice the cost of PETG so right now either PETG or ABS for me until more companies start making and competing with PCTG.
Me too! I wanted to make a video investing if it was any better. Maybe it just needs some more exposure. I haven’t printed with ABS before. I’m hoping to try it out once I get an enclosure and air filtration!
Ouff. Hello. I just woke up to you talking about 3D printer upgrades. Fell asleep and RUclips decided I needed to learn something different today and chose your channel 😂 I will rewatch because I was sleeping the first time.
Oh wow. You’ve just implanted a ton of new ideas into my head. Had no idea what CAN was, very intriguing. How do you like the direct drive vs Bowden? On my old printer direct just worked no issues but it was loud because the whole assembly was so heavy. Bowden made it more accurate and way more silent but also so much harder to get (and keep) running
I appreciate the rewatch😂 I’m surprised you had improved accuracy with a Bowden setup. From my understanding, a Bowden setup allows your gantry to move quicker but hurts your print quality. Direct drive for example requires much lower retraction and pressure advance values. I definitely prefer direct drive. The orbiter sensor addition is also super convenient when it comes to switching/unloading filaments. I’m curious, what was noisy about your printer that Bowden fixed? Was it mechanical noise from the movement of the gantry or was it noise from the stepper motors?
I blew my E3S1 breakout board and could repair it, but lost my part cooling fan control. The cheapest way to replace the breakout board in my area is the ebb boards. Seeing your video gives me a lot more confidence to replace my burnt board. I had many questions like what wires to use and can I add another adxl to do input shaping for both axes,etc. After seeing you go through the whole process, the procedure seems less daunting.
I’m so glad I was able to put you at ease! If you ever have questions about how I set it up that weren’t answered in this video then let me know! I’ll be making videos on specific parts I went over but in more detail. I’ve not published many videos as my schooling has required a lot of attention this year.
@@SpencersDesk Oh Thanks, I will hold you to that. The setup seems to be the longest part
@@SpencersDesk Hey I had a question about the ebb boards. They come in either with Max 31865 chip or without. I've a n E3S1+ would I require the max 31865 chip?
I’m pretty sure you only need the MAX31865 if you elect to use a PT100 thermistor. My gut feeling is that you don’t need one for an Ender (just assuming they don’t use PTs) but I would double check. Sorry, I’m not too familiar with the Enders!
@@SpencersDeskHey I started with the changeover to CAN, but I can't find the pinout for the E-motor anywhere. Could you help me with this information? Thanks
Hey Spencer! I just found your channel and fits me perfectly because I want to make those exactly mods to my Kobra Go lol
Can you recommend me a crimper for making Dupont and JST connectors? thanks!
Hey man! So glad to have you as a viewer! If you check the description of my “how I control my 3D printer’s power” I should have some Amazon affiliate links in the description! I also have a new video coming out today or tomorrow which will have them as well. Let me know if you have any other questions!
I found that TMC2209's skip steps really easily in stealthchop mode if you try printing fast. I run mine in spreadcycle and they never skip steps for me at extreme speeds.
I believe the point of stealth chop is to run the printer at moderate to low speeds, and have a very quiet printing experience. If I could use gcode to have a slow and silent profile that switched from spread cycle to stealth, I might use it. But, until them, I’m also using spread cycle!
@@SpencersDesk I tried mine in stealthchop at slow speeds but it still skipped for me. It could be because I had sensorless homing enabled, but I'm not sure if that was the cause since it did not happen in spreadcycle with sensorless homing.
I don’t know much about sensorless homing (yet) but I think there’s something you have to tune which cause it to recognize the amount of resistance that means it’s homed. I wonder if that was the issue? Was it the bed of a bed slinger or the x-axis too?
@@SpencersDesk There are many things you need to do for sensorless homing. Homing speed, sensitivity, motor current, and a few other things to factor in. I setup a homing macro to lower current and acceleration so homing is more reliable. Oh, and mine is a CoreXY. not a bedslinger
that boy is thicc!
Is there any loss of Y-axis build volume? im thinking of having a similar build on ender 3.
But my concern is that having ebb42 behind the extruder might reducing the Y-axis volume
Hey! I don’t think there would be any appreciable loss. The only loss would stem from the HeroMe Gen7 stuff. Definitely looks thicc but is not too heavy! Thanks for your comment!
Spencer, I am pretty sure this is the only RUclips video about installing Orbiter on Vyper. How do I know? I searched. A lot.
I am running a freakishly similar upgrade process and encountering all the roadblocks as the ones you have discovered...
My Vyper initially was upgraded with an all-metal hotend (Revo Six) and a HeroMe - based part cooling setup for dual 5015 fans.
This upgrade already solved so many Vyper problems! The stock Volcano hotend tends to "ooze" a lot of filament, hence the stringing. The bowden tube tends to be burned after a few months, contributing to the clogs. After the upgrade, I was super happy with PETG printing, getting almost no stringing. I am yet to switch to Klipper on the Vyper, but already have MainsailOS prepared and set up on a Pi...
Now comes Orbiter 2.0. I really wanted a direct drive setup to reliably print flexibles and have more control over pressure advance, etc. I printed all the necessary HeroMe 7 parts to install Orbiter. The first problem happened during the assembly. Not sure if it's a issue with Hero Me 7 1.0, or whether it was designed for an older Vyper, but Orbiter didn't mount because of lack of clearance from the massive printhead connector. I eventually realised that it only needed ~2 extra mm of clearance, so used m3 nuts as extra "raisers / washers" to move both the hotend (actually, the strain gauge itself) and the HeroMe unit away from the gantry. Finally, it has mounted! Now to the saddest part...
As you mentioned, the strain gauge is not designed to work with direct drive. This rigid setup pretty much prevents it from bending and registering the probe touching the plate.
My first attempt at auto bed leveling left a series of deep dents in my plate...
Now I was wondering whether I could squeeze in BlTouch and how on Earth would I find extra pins on this print head for that... And here comes your video.
Yes we CAN! I will start ordering some parts tonight...
Once again, a massive thank you! I would have shared photos of my setup, but I don't think it's possible on RUclips. But happy to chat if you would like to discuss the Vyper.
PS: Maybe, instead of the rollers, you should consider linear rails as a more robust / precise motion system?
PPS: Also, I don't think your problem was with stepper drivers, as the upgrade should not have touched them?
Thanks so much for your comment! If you’re using the HeroMe7 then there should be a few different mounts for the orbiter extruder. Some are thicker than others and some turn the orbiter around if you have clearance issues. There’s also a part that is just an extender! Not sure if these help since you’re using the strain gauge.
If you want to skip the EBB42 or other CAN solution, you could implement a BLTouch or similar upgrade without it. It has plenty of wiring to make it to the motherboard or a pi if you follow through with klipper (which I can’t recommend more!). The CAN part is not necessary but I definitely like it so far!
Maybe I can setup a discord if people want to discuss things further, I’ll let you know!
As for the v-slot wheels, I’m not the biggest fan as they’re the largest source of slop on my print head remaining (I think). Linear rails are quite pricy and I’m still brainstorming a method of mounting them. All I can think of is making some custom aluminum plates using household tools. For now I believe I’ll upgrade to PC wheels if the problem gets worse.
I still believe it is something with the motherboard/drivers. My solution for now was to turn down the bed acceleration. It used to work but all of a sudden started to skip. I think I mentioned that more as a background for why I started the upgrading. But now I see I never really tied up that loose end. Still learning to RUclips lol!
@@SpencersDesk Thanks for the idea of connecting a probe to a Pi, I will give it a go! Yes, I will proceed with Klipper install for now.
Linear rails can be easily mounted to extrusions using sliding t-nuts (according to Teaching Tech videos, I haven't tried this myself yet).
Another cool suggestion from some of Teaching Tech comments was to embed threaded inserts directly into 5015 fan casings, making their mounting easier (without fiddly nuts).
Also, I forgot to mention one thing: it sounds like you power your filament sensor via a voltage divider? This is not recommended in electronics, as any load applied to the "divided" part would change its resistance, "shifting" the voltage equation. Dividers are only useful for measuring voltage, you might need to consider a buck converter for powering the sensor.
Last but not least, there is "Anycubic Vyper 3D Printer User Group" on FB - people sometimes share some cool Vyper upgrades there (and creators of HeroMe and Stealthburner PCB for Vyper post their updates, too). You would probably get a lot of followers if you share your video there. If you don't use FB, I can post it myself.
@@VitalyBrusentsev I didn't know that he had made a video on them, I'll check it out! I'll definitely use the heated insert trick too. I'm planning on making a video that talks more about the HeroMe Gen 7 suite so maybe I'll do it then!
As for the voltage divider, could you send me a resource for the phenomenon you're referring to? I'm a physicist, not an engineer, so it's very likely that I'm living in my ideal world and overlooking the actual practical knowledge that I need😉I'd definitely prefer/am planning to use a buck converter, but I didn't have anything on hand that was going to give me the output I needed. So for now I'm stuck with my voltage divider. But hey, it works so far!
No, I'm not on Facebook. If you could post it for me, I would be exceedingly grateful!
@@SpencersDesk RUclips seems to have blocked my reply with a link, but googling "voltage divider under load" returns some good results. I am not a pro in electronics myself, you probably know more judging by this video :)
Sorry I never saw this! I’m still figuring out RUclips haha! I did take a look at that, I guess I never knew the term applied to this. “Unloaded” voltage divider basically assume the load is ideal (infinite resistance). What I should’ve done is measure the resistance into the sensor, made the parallel resistor higher (so that most of the current would go through the load) then use the series resistor to adjust the voltage drop over the load. Thanks for the heads up!
Best practice is always to use something like an IC. I’m planning on replacing this with a buck when I redesign my printhead!
Generally not a good idea to use a resistor divider for a voltage, unless you know exactly how much power the load will draw and that it will always draw that power. A better choice would be to replace the lower resistor with a zener diode and use a smaller resistor for the upper, to match the zener’s design current. Even better is a simple linear dropout regulator (LDO), or a switching regulator. There are many small ones available.
I definitely prefer using LDOs but I wasn’t keen on waiting for anything I ordered haha. This worked in a pinch and I haven’t had problems with it since, thankfully! Good info, thanks
You need to adjust your vref for you stepper motor s that’s why your having issues with stepper drivers overheating. You need an umbilical cable with four 20 AWG conductors with one twisted pair.
Thanks, I'll definitely check that out. The odd thing is that it only started acting that way well over a year of owning the Vyper. I mentioned that I was going to make another video in the future where I actually address that issue (as it clearly was not addressed in this one).
As for the cables, are you referring to the cable going to the motor or the cable going to the print head? I've got the power and ground to the print head at 20AWG and the communication wires at 24AWG. 20-22AWG should be fine to my motors as they're not being pushed awfully hard. Thanks for your comment!
You definitely should NOT twist the power wires around your CAN comes wires. The power wires on 3d printers are extremely noisy due to the stepper motors which can easily couple over to your comms if you wrap it like that.
Also, the voltage divider used to get 3 volts isn't a good idea. The voltage isn't going to be stable and will move up and down with the current draw. You should instead use a level shifter circuit to shift the 3v logic upto 5v.
Thanks for the comments! I addressed the silly CAN twisting in one of my more recent videos. It never ended up causing issues but I changed it on principle. As to the voltage divider, the sensor only pulls a couple mA as far as I’m aware so I haven’t worried about it too much. I got some very small 5->3.3 bucks that I’ll implement down the road. But the level shifting is also a good idea! Thanks!
Promo-SM
Sorry, I’m not sure what you mean? I recommend all of the parts in this video but not a single one was any kind of promotion