I also only recommend changing one setting at a time and test ride each time in between. If you change more than one setting at a time, you have zero idea which change made the positive or negative change.
This podcast contains some great content and it was explained in a way that anyone can understand and utilize. Such an important topic to address! Keep up the good work 👍
I got my first dirt bike at the age of 18. It wasn’t until my mid forties for me to really get serious about my jetting and learn how to get good at it. I like to ride at each specific throttle position for each circuit, feel how it runs whether rich or lean and dial it in from there. It takes focus but it’s been very rewarding for me.
Hi Kyle I really enjoy your videos. Something that seems to never be mentioned is flashpoints of oils. Everybody since way back when has been constantly wondering why their two stroke exhaust leaks out oil. They invariably talk about the jetting being too rich, the quality of the pre-mix oil or not getting down hard enough on the throttle. I thought about this and came to a conclusion after I switched from KLOTZ BeNol to Amsoil Dominator two stroke mix. Since I was twelve, I have had my share of two stroke bikes and have always had the proverbial (spooge) coming out of the exhaust. I briefly thought it might be the jetting but every bike could not be off. I have always had precise jetting and it ran great, just spooge. Everybody said, “They all do it:'' After I switched to Amsoil Dominator, I noticed I did not have any more spooge coming out. The premix ratio was the same, 40:1. (Since then, I mix it 60:1 for my 07 KTM XC-W as well as my 2002 KX 500) I then read the data sheets for each oil including several other two stroke oils. I noticed Amsoil Dominator had a flashpoint of 194 F., KLOTZ BeNol had a flashpoint of 229 F. I came to the conclusion, the lower the flashpoint of an oil, the likelihood of it burning up expeditiously. I have not tried any other oils besides Amsoil in a long time, simply because if something is working flawlessly why change it. My conclusion is, the lower the temperature a flammable liquid vapor ignites, means the oil will burn up, hence no spooge!
Awesome pod cast ! I have been struggling with the exact issues you discussed and I really understand much better now how to properly tune and jet my KTM thank you !
You may not learn it from a book, but having a book can help a lot. If it has pictures it will help even more so that you will know what it looks like before you take it apart and you will know where these jets, rods, and adjustments are. Really you should use everything at your disposal to help get the job done. Great subject Kyle and some great information.
Kyle, Ace From PA, rebuilt top end, noticed bog in higher gears, adjusted needle to lean out fuel/air, now idle and instant Crack on throttle bog, going to adjust air screw and perhaps idle jet. Thanks for the info, great job!
Differences in oil ratio mix will not have any noticeable effect on the fuel mixture and jetting - try it on a dyno to see for yourself. This is because the percentage change in the mix is actually quite small - e.g. 1.25% (80:1) , 2% (50:1) 3.125% (32:1) 4% (25:1). Its best to use the recommended mix ratio as specified by the oil manufacture in their tech data sheet. The mix ratio and quality of the oil is normally dictated by the flash point of the oil. The higher the flash point the better chance the oil will have of spreading itself around the engine before being burnt but the higher the flash point also increases the chance of fouling plug(s) and black exhaust mess. Personally I would never run anything lower than a 2% mix with a decent oil like Motul 800 off road in a dirt bike or 3% mix with Motul 800 road racing/Castrol 747 for high bhp road racing bikes (i.e. Yamaha TZ250). I would stay away from 80:1 / 100:1 ratios/low flash point oils like Amsoil.
I have tried it.... several times actually (seeing noticeable changes in fuel air mixture by simply changing the fuel oil mix in the gas cans). I've seen it on my kids bikes and my bikes. I've seen it in my weed eater. I've seen it in my chainsaw. I've played around with more than 30 of my own carburetor bikes over the last 11 years to learn this. I don't own a dyno, but I have seen real world changes on my bikes with playing around on them. I'm not going to argue with anyone on it because it's pointless to argue online. These are my observations in my experiences. Have a great day, friend!
@@DirtBikeChannel That's fair enough. All I would say is if your going to mention two stroke oil and ratios it's only fair to explain the differences in oil out there including what's it made from and what difference things like the flash point will make. A viewer/listener can then take the technical insight along with your own personal experience to form an opinion in regards to what oil and ratio they decide to put in their own bike.
Hey man, what's up! Thank you fot the information. It's my first 2 stroke dirt bike and I was having some issues with my jetting and fouling plugs. Now I think I have the know-how to tune my bike. Just downloaded the service manual and have all the data I need to start tunning for where I ride (I live almost at see level...like 40 meters above..I'm like 12KM from the beach so it's almost stock. Some mountains here but highest I can go is like 150M above...). Will go stock first, with recommended fuel mixture, jets and air screw position. Then I will go for a ride and see what it feels like. The manual has all the information regarding carb adjustments for temperature and altitude and correction factors. So now I know what jet sizes I need and how to tune it right. Thanks again bro. Really helped me a lot. Nothing like jumping on google and search all the information regarding my bike. Cheers from Portugal (Europe)
Marshmallow reference was the best!!! Lol . Solid helpful info for jetting . Thank you . My 96 RM has been a pain with fuel delivery. That needle and altitude nugs should get her back to life
Playing with needles is the best thing you can do that is spot on indeed. I was turning my bike 03 kx250 into a woods bike and could never get the bottom end power I needed did governor mod flywheel weight played with timing on stator gnarly pipe ect ect. Then I did some research and got a few different needles necw necj ect I believe been a few years and they were from suzuki and yamaha and man what a difference before even fine tuning it instantly got beter response and grunt of the bottom as before it was not transitioning on to the pipe smooth at all and i tried alot of tuning with the kx needle. Then I got the new needle and tuned it in no more acting like a 125 where there's no power until hit the pipe it is now a great woods single track machine tuned for colorado high elevation minimal spooge and can even go down to the dessert moab from riding at 10000 feet in the high rockies and just richen air screw and raise needle 1 notch runs like a top.
Kyle, I wanted to take a moment and thank you for thought provoking videos. A while ago I caught your video on 2 stroke oil premix. You and I had an email dialogue. After our dialogue I began doing a ton of research on 2 stroke premix. I would like to say this is what I found. A couple of extra ounces more or a couple of ounces less will have a negligible affect on gasoline viscosity. You claim that the reason you run a higher ratio of gasoline to premix is due to the lubrication properties of the premix. This isn't the major reason you have success running less premix to gasoline. The greatest reason is the RPM's at which the engines spend most of their time. What I learned was that even the new fuel injected KTM's inject almost zero oil premix when idling. Then as the RPM's increase so does the amount of oil that is injected. This is to protect the engine parts at extreme temperatures and force. Now in a dirt bike that requires you to premix the oil and fuel, you don't have the luxury of variable Oil to fuel ratios, so you have use a ratio that best works for your bike/conditions. Since you're doing a great deal of single track riding the engine isn't spending most of its time in the upper RPM range most of the time. The engine isn't screaming nonstop like an MX bike does. Albeit the ratios you run work for you and your bikes, it isn't as much a condition of the grade of premix, but more a condition of the type of riding and RPM range you run at. At higher RPM's you need a thicker film of lubrication on the bearings, rings, etc. When a manufacturer recommends a premix ratio, the engineers select this premix ratio based on max RPM and insuring extending engine life. In short you're able to use less oil with strong results due to the lower RPM's your engines mostly run at and not the type/grade of oil you run. The other thing to consider is how well the rings seal especially at higher RPM's. The premix plays an important role here. The less oil in the fuel the thinner the film of oil on the cylinder walls/rings and that reduces compression especially at higher RPM's. Anyway, I wanted to share what I learned, and I did all of this research due to you getting my brain going. Also AFR is AFR, Running a thinner fuel or a thicker won't change the amount of lubrication. I say this because if the engine begins getting more fuel, or too much fuel, you'll need to lean out the fuel air ratio. If the engine is getting less fuel or too little, then you'll have to fatten up the mixture. At the end of the day the ideal AFR is somewhere between 12:1 to 14.5:1 Air Fuel Ratio. You can't run leaner without melting something down and you can't run richer without affecting performance negatively, You can't run a "thinner" fuel and believe you're getting more lubrication. The volumetric efficiency of the engine is static for arguments sake. That said, you'll need "X" amount of fuel for each revolution of the engine to maintain a specific Air Fuel Ratio. The mass of the fuel is more important than the volume. XX parts per million of air to YY parts per million of fuel. That said the volumetric efficiency of the engine is static, so you'll always need "XX" parts per million of fuel. The only variable is air density. The greater the air density, the more fuel, and vice versa. You'll reduce your engine life in no time running less oil to fuel regardless of the brand of oil premix if you let that engine scream. You're not getting additional fuel in the crankcase with a "thinner" fuel, unless of course you're running a fatter fuel mixture to air. I hope this makes sense and am happy to have further dialogue.
Thanks for the explanation...i totally get it. I am a A amd P mechanic fresh out of school and i felt like i was back in school witj this video. Keep up the great work!
This is my favorite podcast Mr Kyle haha so sick because I have a two stroke and the jetting is a pain in the ass always has been I need to practice because practice makes consistency
Quick Comment for the guys that have a TPI: Not every Oil that is rated for Injection (Jaso FD) is also fit for injection. I know that sounds stupid but hear me out: Your injetion pump an the little "squirter" that squirts the oil in the airstream coming though the throttle body need a specific viscosity to mix the oil with the air sufficently and pump enogh oil to lube the engine. If its to thick, the amount will be a lot smaller and the mixing will be less homogenous. Want an example? Here are a few common oils in comparison, a higher number means higher viscosity: Bel Ray SI7: 44mm²/s Liqui Moly Offroad Race/ Scooter Race (same Oil): 50mm²/s Crosspower 2T: 56 mm²/s Motul 710: 70mm²/s As you can see the Motil 710 is rated for Jaso FD but is massivly more viscos. And yes it will likely to damage your engine! I knwo viscosity is not everything and im no 100% expert, but i can gurantee you that a oil that is as thick as the Motul 710 will result in bad lubrication, compared to "lighter" oils.
My neighbor recently got an email from the ktm dealer to run some oil in the fuel tank of his 2018 300exc tpi to prevent damage based on what they have been experiencing in the workshop.
@@malky525 Than you should probably avoid that dealer. If you add oil in the fuel you are injecting that oil (and the fuel) only at the transfer ports. so it will never reach the crankcase/ piston below the rings to lubricate them. If you dont know what i mean picture it this way: if you would add oil at the upmost point of the head, that would just lubricate the top of the piston, which wouldnt make a lot of sense. This would be the effect if you add oil to your gas. The only thing adding oil to your gas would do is creating more carbon buildup on the piston/ power valve/ pipe. I would really like to know the reason why any dealer would suggest such a thing, i couldnt think of a good one.
I'm running Klotz BeNol racing castor 2-stroke premix in a 2018 YZ250 @ 32:1 w/ 93 octane pump fuel... sometimes I will switch back and forth between 40:1 (trail riding) & 32:1 (wide open fields, high speed runs)... basically with the stock jetting specs... runs very well...
I wish I saw this video before last weekend. My 300 has been running lean checked the plug def a little too lean so I cleaned the carb and jets left the 38 pilot in there and the 162 main slid the clip down a slot seemed to run much better bike is running alot cooler now plug looks perfect.
I'm not worried about a little oil on the tip of my silencer. I run motorex 40:1 in my TC 125 just like the manual suggests, plug comes out looking perfect for a 2 stroke. The little bit of oil on the tip of the silencer tells me that it's getting plenty of lubrication even at wide open throttle around a motocross track.
My understanding is that it is not the viscosity of the fuel mixture (more oil = more viscous; less oil = less viscous) that changes the amount of fuel that can pass through the jets but rather that for every unit of gas/oil mixture, there are more gasoline particles, at 50 parts gas to1part oil, thus making the air/fuel ratio richer (more gasoline). At lower gas/oil ratios (e.g. 32:1), the opposite is true as there are fewer gasoline particles (32) for each unit of fuel passing through the jets, thus a leaner air/fuel ratio. It's not a viscosity issue but a volumetric one. Jets regulate volume, and I doubt there is a significant change in the fuel viscosity at the relatively small amounts of oil added to two-stroke premix.
When we performed 2 stroke lubrication tests back in the 1990s, we found that even the piston pin doesn't get enough oil at 50 or 60 to one mix. 40 to 1 is recommended, regardless of what the provided the carb jetting is ideal. I don't care what the factories recommend.
@@carlatamanczyk3891 1990's is a little bit ago, materials and quality has changed. Did you do the same thing and use the same products in the 90's as people did in the 70's because that's the same time span. I grew up in the 80's and 90's and used 32:1, that was the standard. The first time I saw someone using 40:1 I was shocked. Now depending on the oil I use 50 or 60 to one with no problems. Just food for thought.
@@blackjackatxben It isn't so much the lubricant as it is the RPM the engine spends most of its time at. Engineers select a ratio based upon engine longevity at high RPM. It is perfectly fine to run less oil if you're trail riding and not giving it the pipe all day long. 2 strokes would never survive with less oil mixture running wide open all day on an MX track.
1997 kawasaki Kdx 220 Lectron (needed to tune/lean out for full new fmf exhaust) 40:1 motorx 88 ethanol free fuel Runs great for me... every bike is different
If you want a oil that is better than motorex and has been proven so and is also around the same price as motorex? Well check out motul 800 it’s a really good oil
@@tc1254 Motul 800 is great for hard running or racing but for trail riding the Motul 610 is better due its lower flash point. Most bikers do not understand that. Even Kyle needs educated about oil flash points.
Still tuning and began messing with carb I recently switched from 32:1 which is manufacturer recommended to 40:1 and bike runs much better using castor 927. Next is the air screw
I got a good lesson on pilot jet vs main jet My pilot jet rattled loose and the bike would start run and then just dump full in once i tuned the throttle at all it was bad Basically had to turn my idle up as high as i could before it started smoking and bogging and clutch it back to the truck... fun day
Kyle what go you know about different 2 stroke oil flash points? This is an issue I would like to see dirt bikers get educated on. Higher flash point oils are better for hard riding or racing. Lower flash point oils burn more complete for trail riding, lower RPM use.
As u go up in oil you run leaner af,s goin say from 32:1 -50:1 means there is more fuel vs oil creating a richer af burn and has nothing to do with viscosity or flow ability through the jets,yes iam a mechanic and work on this stuff daily.
Personal experience 2017 yz250x Utah, Idaho riding 172 main jet leave everything else stock 40:1 2T motox oil 88 ethanol free fuel..... You can find so many different combinations and is that "perfect" no but it works great for me and how i ride
Loved this video Kyle. You're spot on. I am new to the 2 stroke world, and have found it very easy to buy a JD jet kit for my specific application, and use that as a baseline. Thoughts? What I have found is that typically JD runs a leaner primary jet, and keeps the pilot jet (idle jet) the same as factory. Then I typically run the needle one step leaner than the JD jet kit baseline.
I’m cheap. Been running MAXIMA SUPER M 2-STROKE OIL at 44:1 (14oz per 5 gallons of gasoline) in my 2-strokes (2-KTM 250’s, one Husaberg 300) for years. I buy it in the 64oz size, and separate it into old 16oz bottles at 14oz. Never have issues with spooge or plug fouling. Pistons go over 200 hours with no wear. As you change your oil ratio, you slightly change fueling as well. A 32:1 oil ratio means there is more oil per gulp, thus, the fueling is leaner. A 60:1 oil ratio means you have less oil per gulp, thus the fueling is richer. The engine runs on its gasoline mixture to air, the oil just kinda gets in the way, it’s there for lubrication, not for power. Obviously, as others have stated, different oils have different flash points, but none produce power inside the combustion chamber. That’s what the gasoline does.
I have a Yamaha blaster 200 and I run maxima super M I run 32:1 then I switched to ams oil and I hated it I used 40:1 I’m now staying with maxima forever
you know, I was thinking, with changing the premix from 50:1 to 65:1 or vice versa you are riching / leaning the bike up... meaning by changing the fuel/oil ratio you are indirectly changing the air/fuel mixture... :D so instead of changing jets, you are changing only the premix.. hmm what about that ?
I’ve got a 2023 yz65 that’s running rich. I’m running 32:1. The manufacturer recommends 30:1. By what I’m understanding by going to 30:1 it should lean it out a bit. Am I correct in assuming that? If so, I’ll switch to 30:1 and jet accordingly. Please advise 😊
Video made alot of sense definitely learned some stuff from this I’m still new to my 2 stroke just been trying to figure out how to tune my bike if I run different ratios like I wanna run 50:1 I have questions like if I need to go up in sizes of jets if I mix higher or lower ratios and such wondering if you have some input on that.
I have a 22’ ktm 125 sx. I run vp t2 at 40:1 fuel. I have a powerflow air filter with the vented air cover. Vforce 4 reeds. and lastly a fmf factory fatty with the 2.1 powercore... when I bought the bike it came with a tube of additional jets from ktm as well as a needle. I am currently running a 520 main and the other needle that it came with on the 2nd clip... Anyone who can relate or share their opinion on this jetting setup would be great
Main jet-160 Needle position 3 Pilot-52 Air temp 60 70s 91 kx 250 It will break up before power band and shoots oil from exhaust but that’s bc I’m mainly going short disntace and running 32:1 you think it could be loading up that’s why it’s breaking up before power band?
Rpm has huge factor on splooge. Cylinder loads up as turbulence is low to actually bring that oil out of your pipe and bottom of cylinders. Ice racing we ran 25:1 and jetted way fat for more horsepower at max engine rpm and keep exhaust Temps down.
Very good info.Just got my 2022 ktm 250 sx last week.Very existed,haven't had the chance to go out riding yet but hopefully this weekend ill get the chance.One thing I noticed is that couple times I run the engine to warm up a bit,then let it idle and in 2 min or so,the engine dies don't know why.Maybe because is new and have to go through the braking process? If anyone can answer that question,let me know.Thanks in advance!!!
Would it be almost self-correcting to run more oil in hot weather (higher density altitude wants it leaner) and less oil in cold weather (lower density altitude wants it richer)?
It's imperative your top end, intake boots, crankcase seals, and Reed valves are in good condition too otherwise you're pissing in the wind for me trying to jet a bike, nice video for people to start doing their own jetting, the amount of people that just use new plugs every ride is insane here in the UK 🤦🏼♂️
Some people run the amsoil saber 80:1 and swear by it. Wonder how it is in the ktm 300 tpi. 80:1 is crazy. But ive always ran ams oil denominator it calls for 50:1 but i always do 40:1 ......side note always ran belray gear saver in the bottom end or synthetic ATF .....SOME WILL ARGUE BUT IT WORKS WONDERS
Hey Kyle, how do you mount your fuel canister to the fender of your KTM 300? I have a yz250f and would like some extra fuel but I don't want to spend $350 on an oversized gas tank.😐
I have a 2001 Honda elite s 72cc big bore kit My Pilot is at 80 and my main is at 100 clip is in the middle spooge is coming out and I can’t seem to figure out the jetting
In regards to density altitude, here’s a decent calculator. wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm If you know your altitude, you can get air temp, altimeter setting (usually phrased as pressure), & dew point from most weather apps. It’s amazing how different density altitude can be from physical elevation. I live @ roughly 1200’ above sea level. During the dog days of summer, that can equate to almost 4000’ density altitude. During the winter, it can be close to 0 or a negative number. That’s a larger range than actual elevation would suggest. I’m not a perfectionist, but I enjoy playing around w/ the numbers. It explained a lot & helped me w/ my winter vs summer jetting.
My take. Manufacturers jetting is based on the oil/fuel ratio recommended for proper top end lubrication. If you use less oil in your mix you are richening your fuel. Adding more oil to your mix your leaning your fuel. The mix has nothing to do with the size of jets selected. It has everything to do with the lubrication. You should only consider jetting changes if indicators require it. Look at your plug chart to see if a change is required. And many other indicators such as spooge, pinging, bogging etc. @Enduro X is correct one change at a time.
My bike perfect right now, it’s ofc got a bit more power when it’s colder outside. Im always close to sea-level. But should i start to lean out the bike to gain some power? It’s about 0 degrees celsius right now so it would be perfect to tune now so i don’t lean it out to much for the summer? Edit: I should add i’m about one turn out on the air screw. So it’s rich, i don’t see any big smoke or running of oil. But the sparkplug is definitely black and not brown. With that being said, it’s still runs good. Just lacks those last ponies. It’s an ktm 125 exc 2009. I can’t remember the pilot jet. I recently cleaned everything on the bike. Also painted the frame etc basically new bike. Also new piston and crank. Anyways, i also need to buy jets so could lectron be an option?
Yeah u could go lectron or you could get a jd jetting kit for about $80 I think and would run really well but u would have to change ur jetting time to time
dumb question im running my miniGP bike on 25:1 4% mixture and it is not drool oil and run god. what is the comment fields take on that, should i go up to 32:1 mix?
Some current KTM owner's will never go with TPI, throttle potty injection, guessing were going with Beta next time, I thought ktm was helping industry, now with 3 named brands of bikes,all with TPI , are they helping anything in the industry
They are helping keep it alive. It is under attack. Newer, cleaner running 2t engines are a great thing. We should do our best to figure out how to like them. CA is playing the long game. Some day there wont be any bikes left that are legal to ride on public land there. It seems like we have some pretty popular people campaigning against 450’s too. I’m against being against dirt bikes. I’m glad we have em.
Not to speak for Kyle but he has said in previous videos that he DID NOT at the time of his injury. he was actually on a trials bike when he was injured.
Hey everyone I need some help jetting. I just bought a 2022 yz250x and it’s a beast! I’m running stock jets right now with the pilot jet 50 2nd position clip on the needle and a 178 main jet. I live in southern New Mexico 4000ft elevation and temps are around 85 low humidity. Need some more bottom to mid power. Plus I’m fouling plugs like crazy. Any suggestions??
I've been jetting bikes for 55+ years.......after listening to your "explanation" , my advice is: Don't give up your day job for teaching. Good info and no organization.
@@innerfire-graham9016 Best thing to do is not run 32/1 even if you’re jetting is perfect I have Unburned oil if you’re running yamalube 2-R they recommend running it between 32/1 to 40/1 so I would run it at 40/1 plenty enough oil for whatever you’re doing and after that if you’re having jetting issues get a jd jet kit and if you want the best for hard Enduro/ Single track run whatever they recommend for Sand at your altitude because with it being richer you will have more bottomend and still not have Oil pouring out your exhaust and filing plugs
I also only recommend changing one setting at a time and test ride each time in between. If you change more than one setting at a time, you have zero idea which change made the positive or negative change.
100%. If I didn't say that, I meant to!
@@DirtBikeChannel will 33:1 damage the engine because of carbon deposits?
@@Sensei948watch the video you will know
This podcast contains some great content and it was explained in a way that anyone can understand and utilize. Such an important topic to address! Keep up the good work 👍
I got my first dirt bike at the age of 18. It wasn’t until my mid forties for me to really get serious about my jetting and learn how to get good at it. I like to ride at each specific throttle position for each circuit, feel how it runs whether rich or lean and dial it in from there. It takes focus but it’s been very rewarding for me.
Right on!
Same. Been riding since I was a kid. 43 now and still learning
Hi Kyle I really enjoy your videos. Something that seems to never be mentioned is flashpoints of oils. Everybody since way back when has been constantly wondering why their two stroke exhaust leaks out oil. They invariably talk about the jetting being too rich, the quality of the pre-mix oil or not getting down hard enough on the throttle. I thought about this and came to a conclusion after I switched from KLOTZ BeNol to Amsoil Dominator two stroke mix.
Since I was twelve, I have had my share of two stroke bikes and have always had the proverbial (spooge) coming out of the exhaust. I briefly thought it might be the jetting but every bike could not be off. I have always had precise jetting and it ran great, just spooge. Everybody said, “They all do it:'' After I switched to Amsoil Dominator, I noticed I did not have any more spooge coming out. The premix ratio was the same, 40:1. (Since then, I mix it 60:1 for my 07 KTM XC-W as well as my 2002 KX 500) I then read the data sheets for each oil including several other two stroke oils. I noticed Amsoil Dominator had a flashpoint of 194 F., KLOTZ BeNol had a flashpoint of 229 F. I came to the conclusion, the lower the flashpoint of an oil, the likelihood of it burning up expeditiously. I have not tried any other oils besides Amsoil in a long time, simply because if something is working flawlessly why change it.
My conclusion is, the lower the temperature a flammable liquid vapor ignites, means the oil will burn up, hence no spooge!
Awesome pod cast ! I have been struggling with the exact issues you discussed and I really understand much better now how to properly tune and jet my KTM thank you !
You may not learn it from a book, but having a book can help a lot. If it has pictures it will help even more so that you will know what it looks like before you take it apart and you will know where these jets, rods, and adjustments are. Really you should use everything at your disposal to help get the job done. Great subject Kyle and some great information.
Kyle, Ace From PA, rebuilt top end, noticed bog in higher gears, adjusted needle to lean out fuel/air, now idle and instant Crack on throttle bog, going to adjust air screw and perhaps idle jet. Thanks for the info, great job!
Differences in oil ratio mix will not have any noticeable effect on the fuel mixture and jetting - try it on a dyno to see for yourself. This is because the percentage change in the mix is actually quite small - e.g. 1.25% (80:1)
, 2% (50:1) 3.125% (32:1) 4% (25:1). Its best to use the recommended mix ratio as specified by the oil manufacture in their tech data sheet. The mix ratio and quality of the oil is normally dictated by the flash point of the oil. The higher the flash point the better chance the oil will have of spreading itself around the engine before being burnt but the higher the flash point also increases the chance of fouling plug(s) and black exhaust mess. Personally I would never run anything lower than a 2% mix with a decent oil like Motul 800 off road in a dirt bike or 3% mix with Motul 800 road racing/Castrol 747 for high bhp road racing bikes (i.e. Yamaha TZ250). I would stay away from 80:1 / 100:1 ratios/low flash point oils like Amsoil.
I have tried it.... several times actually (seeing noticeable changes in fuel air mixture by simply changing the fuel oil mix in the gas cans). I've seen it on my kids bikes and my bikes. I've seen it in my weed eater. I've seen it in my chainsaw. I've played around with more than 30 of my own carburetor bikes over the last 11 years to learn this. I don't own a dyno, but I have seen real world changes on my bikes with playing around on them. I'm not going to argue with anyone on it because it's pointless to argue online. These are my observations in my experiences. Have a great day, friend!
@@DirtBikeChannel That's fair enough. All I would say is if your going to mention two stroke oil and ratios it's only fair to explain the differences in oil out there including what's it made from and what difference things like the flash point will make. A viewer/listener can then take the technical insight along with your own personal experience to form an opinion in regards to what oil and ratio they decide to put in their own bike.
Hi Kyle I've been listening to your podcast for a while its helped me out a lot
Glad to hear it!
Hey man, what's up! Thank you fot the information. It's my first 2 stroke dirt bike and I was having some issues with my jetting and fouling plugs. Now I think I have the know-how to tune my bike. Just downloaded the service manual and have all the data I need to start tunning for where I ride (I live almost at see level...like 40 meters above..I'm like 12KM from the beach so it's almost stock. Some mountains here but highest I can go is like 150M above...). Will go stock first, with recommended fuel mixture, jets and air screw position. Then I will go for a ride and see what it feels like. The manual has all the information regarding carb adjustments for temperature and altitude and correction factors. So now I know what jet sizes I need and how to tune it right. Thanks again bro. Really helped me a lot. Nothing like jumping on google and search all the information regarding my bike. Cheers from Portugal (Europe)
It's been a finicky time trying to tune our huskys. Thanks Kyle!
Marshmallow reference was the best!!! Lol . Solid helpful info for jetting . Thank you .
My 96 RM has been a pain with fuel delivery. That needle and altitude nugs should get her back to life
Playing with needles is the best thing you can do that is spot on indeed. I was turning my bike 03 kx250 into a woods bike and could never get the bottom end power I needed did governor mod flywheel weight played with timing on stator gnarly pipe ect ect. Then I did some research and got a few different needles necw necj ect I believe been a few years and they were from suzuki and yamaha and man what a difference before even fine tuning it instantly got beter response and grunt of the bottom as before it was not transitioning on to the pipe smooth at all and i tried alot of tuning with the kx needle. Then I got the new needle and tuned it in no more acting like a 125 where there's no power until hit the pipe it is now a great woods single track machine tuned for colorado high elevation minimal spooge and can even go down to the dessert moab from riding at 10000 feet in the high rockies and just richen air screw and raise needle 1 notch runs like a top.
I still run a soil saber at 80:1 on my 250xc ! Runs like a top! 8oz 5 gallon gas good to go!
Same here on my pre-mix bikes. Great oil, and easy.
Kyle, I wanted to take a moment and thank you for thought provoking videos. A while ago I caught your video on 2 stroke oil premix. You and I had an email dialogue. After our dialogue I began doing a ton of research on 2 stroke premix. I would like to say this is what I found. A couple of extra ounces more or a couple of ounces less will have a negligible affect on gasoline viscosity. You claim that the reason you run a higher ratio of gasoline to premix is due to the lubrication properties of the premix. This isn't the major reason you have success running less premix to gasoline. The greatest reason is the RPM's at which the engines spend most of their time. What I learned was that even the new fuel injected KTM's inject almost zero oil premix when idling. Then as the RPM's increase so does the amount of oil that is injected. This is to protect the engine parts at extreme temperatures and force. Now in a dirt bike that requires you to premix the oil and fuel, you don't have the luxury of variable Oil to fuel ratios, so you have use a ratio that best works for your bike/conditions. Since you're doing a great deal of single track riding the engine isn't spending most of its time in the upper RPM range most of the time. The engine isn't screaming nonstop like an MX bike does. Albeit the ratios you run work for you and your bikes, it isn't as much a condition of the grade of premix, but more a condition of the type of riding and RPM range you run at. At higher RPM's you need a thicker film of lubrication on the bearings, rings, etc. When a manufacturer recommends a premix ratio, the engineers select this premix ratio based on max RPM and insuring extending engine life. In short you're able to use less oil with strong results due to the lower RPM's your engines mostly run at and not the type/grade of oil you run. The other thing to consider is how well the rings seal especially at higher RPM's. The premix plays an important role here. The less oil in the fuel the thinner the film of oil on the cylinder walls/rings and that reduces compression especially at higher RPM's. Anyway, I wanted to share what I learned, and I did all of this research due to you getting my brain going. Also AFR is AFR, Running a thinner fuel or a thicker won't change the amount of lubrication. I say this because if the engine begins getting more fuel, or too much fuel, you'll need to lean out the fuel air ratio. If the engine is getting less fuel or too little, then you'll have to fatten up the mixture. At the end of the day the ideal AFR is somewhere between 12:1 to 14.5:1 Air Fuel Ratio. You can't run leaner without melting something down and you can't run richer without affecting performance negatively, You can't run a "thinner" fuel and believe you're getting more lubrication. The volumetric efficiency of the engine is static for arguments sake. That said, you'll need "X" amount of fuel for each revolution of the engine to maintain a specific Air Fuel Ratio. The mass of the fuel is more important than the volume. XX parts per million of air to YY parts per million of fuel. That said the volumetric efficiency of the engine is static, so you'll always need "XX" parts per million of fuel. The only variable is air density. The greater the air density, the more fuel, and vice versa. You'll reduce your engine life in no time running less oil to fuel regardless of the brand of oil premix if you let that engine scream. You're not getting additional fuel in the crankcase with a "thinner" fuel, unless of course you're running a fatter fuel mixture to air. I hope this makes sense and am happy to have further dialogue.
Thanks for the explanation...i totally get it. I am a A amd P mechanic fresh out of school and i felt like i was back in school witj this video. Keep up the great work!
This is my favorite podcast Mr Kyle haha so sick because I have a two stroke and the jetting is a pain in the ass always has been I need to practice because practice makes consistency
Quick Comment for the guys that have a TPI:
Not every Oil that is rated for Injection (Jaso FD) is also fit for injection.
I know that sounds stupid but hear me out:
Your injetion pump an the little "squirter" that squirts the oil in the airstream coming though the throttle body need a specific viscosity to mix the oil with the air sufficently and pump enogh oil to lube the engine. If its to thick, the amount will be a lot smaller and the mixing will be less homogenous. Want an example? Here are a few common oils in comparison, a higher number means higher viscosity:
Bel Ray SI7: 44mm²/s
Liqui Moly Offroad Race/ Scooter Race (same Oil): 50mm²/s
Crosspower 2T: 56 mm²/s
Motul 710: 70mm²/s
As you can see the Motil 710 is rated for Jaso FD but is massivly more viscos. And yes it will likely to damage your engine! I knwo viscosity is not everything and im no 100% expert, but i can gurantee you that a oil that is as thick as the Motul 710 will result in bad lubrication, compared to "lighter" oils.
My neighbor recently got an email from the ktm dealer to run some oil in the fuel tank of his 2018 300exc tpi to prevent damage based on what they have been experiencing in the workshop.
@@malky525 Than you should probably avoid that dealer. If you add oil in the fuel you are injecting that oil (and the fuel) only at the transfer ports. so it will never reach the crankcase/ piston below the rings to lubricate them. If you dont know what i mean picture it this way: if you would add oil at the upmost point of the head, that would just lubricate the top of the piston, which wouldnt make a lot of sense. This would be the effect if you add oil to your gas. The only thing adding oil to your gas would do is creating more carbon buildup on the piston/ power valve/ pipe. I would really like to know the reason why any dealer would suggest such a thing, i couldnt think of a good one.
I'm running Klotz BeNol racing castor 2-stroke premix in a 2018 YZ250 @ 32:1 w/ 93 octane pump fuel... sometimes I will switch back and forth between 40:1 (trail riding) & 32:1 (wide open fields, high speed runs)... basically with the stock jetting specs... runs very well...
Klotz BeNol is one of the best, I love the stuff!
@@NoWay-vz9xw ... I've tried Klotz Super Techniplate & R50 also... I like all of them...
@@NoWay-vz9xw ...it's just hard to find where I live, I have to get it through mail-order (internet/ online purchase)
@@ghostrt1608 , same here, I have to go on line, I also run it in all my lawn equipment motors as well! The smell is so good..
@@NoWay-vz9xw ... Yeah I always get compliments on how that stuff smell...
I wish I saw this video before last weekend. My 300 has been running lean checked the plug def a little too lean so I cleaned the carb and jets left the 38 pilot in there and the 162 main slid the clip down a slot seemed to run much better bike is running alot cooler now plug looks perfect.
Thank you for these videos, they are very helpful and well done. Keep ‘em coming brother.
Thanks, will do!
I'm not worried about a little oil on the tip of my silencer. I run motorex 40:1 in my TC 125 just like the manual suggests, plug comes out looking perfect for a 2 stroke. The little bit of oil on the tip of the silencer tells me that it's getting plenty of lubrication even at wide open throttle around a motocross track.
Awesome video/Podcast... Thank you. Excellent information, as always.
My understanding is that it is not the viscosity of the fuel mixture (more oil = more viscous; less oil = less viscous) that changes the amount of fuel that can pass through the jets but rather that for every unit of gas/oil mixture, there are more gasoline particles, at 50 parts gas to1part oil, thus making the air/fuel ratio richer (more gasoline). At lower gas/oil ratios (e.g. 32:1), the opposite is true as there are fewer gasoline particles (32) for each unit of fuel passing through the jets, thus a leaner air/fuel ratio. It's not a viscosity issue but a volumetric one. Jets regulate volume, and I doubt there is a significant change in the fuel viscosity at the relatively small amounts of oil added to two-stroke premix.
Always run 40:1 rather have a filed plug then a seezed piston
When we performed 2 stroke lubrication tests back in the 1990s, we found that even the piston pin doesn't get enough oil at 50 or 60 to one mix. 40 to 1 is recommended, regardless of what the provided the carb jetting is ideal. I don't care what the factories recommend.
@@carlatamanczyk3891 1990's is a little bit ago, materials and quality has changed. Did you do the same thing and use the same products in the 90's as people did in the 70's because that's the same time span. I grew up in the 80's and 90's and used 32:1, that was the standard. The first time I saw someone using 40:1 I was shocked. Now depending on the oil I use 50 or 60 to one with no problems. Just food for thought.
@@blackjackatxben ams oil 50:1 or 40:1
@@yuckboi8658 amsoil 32:1
@@blackjackatxben It isn't so much the lubricant as it is the RPM the engine spends most of its time at. Engineers select a ratio based upon engine longevity at high RPM. It is perfectly fine to run less oil if you're trail riding and not giving it the pipe all day long. 2 strokes would never survive with less oil mixture running wide open all day on an MX track.
Great job explaining very rare that I can understand
Nice talk I enjoyed it very much. 95 kx 250 pain bogging in low throttle cleaning the carb a gain and a gain. I’ll figure it out tho. Thanks man
Right, more oil in your oil/gas mixture will lean out your fuel/air mixture. Less gas molecules.
1997 kawasaki Kdx 220
Lectron (needed to tune/lean out for full new fmf exhaust)
40:1 motorx
88 ethanol free fuel
Runs great for me... every bike is different
If you want a oil that is better than motorex and has been proven so and is also around the same price as motorex? Well check out motul 800 it’s a really good oil
@@tc1254 Motul 800 is great for hard running or racing but for trail riding the Motul 610 is better due its lower flash point. Most bikers do not understand that. Even Kyle needs educated about oil flash points.
@@carlatamanczyk3891 also the viscosity of the oil had a difference too
Still tuning and began messing with carb I recently switched from 32:1 which is manufacturer recommended to 40:1 and bike runs much better using castor 927. Next is the air screw
I got a good lesson on pilot jet vs main jet
My pilot jet rattled loose and the bike would start run and then just dump full in once i tuned the throttle at all it was bad
Basically had to turn my idle up as high as i could before it started smoking and bogging and clutch it back to the truck... fun day
Kyle what go you know about different 2 stroke oil flash points? This is an issue I would like to see dirt bikers get educated on.
Higher flash point oils are better for hard riding or racing. Lower flash point oils burn more complete for trail riding, lower RPM use.
As u go up in oil you run leaner af,s goin say from 32:1 -50:1 means there is more fuel vs oil creating a richer af burn and has nothing to do with viscosity or flow ability through the jets,yes iam a mechanic and work on this stuff daily.
This is excellent content, Kyle! Thanks for the info!
Personal experience
2017 yz250x Utah, Idaho riding
172 main jet leave everything else stock
40:1 2T motox oil
88 ethanol free fuel.....
You can find so many different combinations and is that "perfect" no but it works great for me and how i ride
Loved this video Kyle. You're spot on. I am new to the 2 stroke world, and have found it very easy to buy a JD jet kit for my specific application, and use that as a baseline. Thoughts? What I have found is that typically JD runs a leaner primary jet, and keeps the pilot jet (idle jet) the same as factory. Then I typically run the needle one step leaner than the JD jet kit baseline.
send me an email and I'll give some insight on this from my perspective. kyle at dirtbikechannel.com
I’m cheap. Been running MAXIMA SUPER M 2-STROKE OIL at 44:1 (14oz per 5 gallons of gasoline) in my 2-strokes (2-KTM 250’s, one Husaberg 300) for years. I buy it in the 64oz size, and separate it into old 16oz bottles at 14oz. Never have issues with spooge or plug fouling. Pistons go over 200 hours with no wear. As you change your oil ratio, you slightly change fueling as well. A 32:1 oil ratio means there is more oil per gulp, thus, the fueling is leaner. A 60:1 oil ratio means you have less oil per gulp, thus the fueling is richer. The engine runs on its gasoline mixture to air, the oil just kinda gets in the way, it’s there for lubrication, not for power. Obviously, as others have stated, different oils have different flash points, but none produce power inside the combustion chamber. That’s what the gasoline does.
I have a Yamaha blaster 200 and I run maxima super M I run 32:1 then I switched to ams oil and I hated it I used 40:1 I’m now staying with maxima forever
Great topic and content. Thanks for this conversation and all the knowlage and experience you share with us. Stay safe and vigilant folks.
Great job. Very informative, thanks a lot!
you know, I was thinking, with changing the premix from 50:1 to 65:1 or vice versa you are riching / leaning the bike up... meaning by changing the fuel/oil ratio you are indirectly changing the air/fuel mixture... :D so instead of changing jets, you are changing only the premix.. hmm what about that ?
Yamaha and Kawasaki recommend 32 to 1. 80 or 100 to 1 will kill the cranks in small bore 2 strokes pretty fast.
yamalube 2-R is between 32/1 to 40/1 and Motorex cross power t2 is 40/1 to 60/1
Thank you 🤘🏽🍻
I would add make sure your air filter is clean too. Sorry if you mentioned that and I didn't catch it.
Altitudes....
Do we lean out air/fuel with airscrew to help bike with fuel richness when we above sea level as a quick resolution? Thanks in advance!
I’ve got a 2023 yz65 that’s running rich. I’m running 32:1. The manufacturer recommends 30:1. By what I’m understanding by going to 30:1 it should lean it out a bit. Am I correct in assuming that? If so, I’ll switch to 30:1 and jet accordingly. Please advise 😊
Video made alot of sense definitely learned some stuff from this I’m still new to my 2 stroke just been trying to figure out how to tune my bike if I run different ratios like I wanna run 50:1 I have questions like if I need to go up in sizes of jets if I mix higher or lower ratios and such wondering if you have some input on that.
I have a 22’ ktm 125 sx. I run vp t2 at 40:1 fuel. I have a powerflow air filter with the vented air cover. Vforce 4 reeds. and lastly a fmf factory fatty with the 2.1 powercore... when I bought the bike it came with a tube of additional jets from ktm as well as a needle. I am currently running a 520 main and the other needle that it came with on the 2nd clip... Anyone who can relate or share their opinion on this jetting setup would be great
Main jet-160
Needle position 3
Pilot-52
Air temp 60 70s
91 kx 250
It will break up before power band and shoots oil from exhaust but that’s bc I’m mainly going short disntace and running 32:1 you think it could be loading up that’s why it’s breaking up before power band?
too rich with the oil mixture.
52 pilot is very rich ,try a 40 or 42
Bike science with Kyle!
Very good
I have a 19ktm 300xc I use 50.1 Motul 800
The fact that there's a 45 minute introduction video to jetting makes me think I better buy a TPI. 😅
Rpm has huge factor on splooge. Cylinder loads up as turbulence is low to actually bring that oil out of your pipe and bottom of cylinders.
Ice racing we ran 25:1 and jetted way fat for more horsepower at max engine rpm and keep exhaust Temps down.
Thanks!
Ktm tpi bikes use fixed feed rate oil pumps. So do you worry about the recommended oil manufacturer oil / fuel ratio?
Very good info.Just got my 2022 ktm 250 sx last week.Very existed,haven't had the chance to go out riding yet but hopefully this weekend ill get the chance.One thing I noticed is that couple times I run the engine to warm up a bit,then let it idle and in 2 min or so,the engine dies don't know why.Maybe because is new and have to go through the braking process? If anyone can answer that question,let me know.Thanks in advance!!!
Would it be almost self-correcting to run more oil in hot weather (higher density altitude wants it leaner) and less oil in cold weather (lower density altitude wants it richer)?
Ppl still mix oil and jet bikes? TPI boyzzzz
It's imperative your top end, intake boots, crankcase seals, and Reed valves are in good condition too otherwise you're pissing in the wind for me trying to jet a bike, nice video for people to start doing their own jetting, the amount of people that just use new plugs every ride is insane here in the UK 🤦🏼♂️
Some people run the amsoil saber 80:1 and swear by it. Wonder how it is in the ktm 300 tpi. 80:1 is crazy. But ive always ran ams oil denominator it calls for 50:1 but i always do 40:1 ......side note always ran belray gear saver in the bottom end or synthetic ATF .....SOME WILL ARGUE BUT IT WORKS WONDERS
Hey Kyle, how do you mount your fuel canister to the fender of your KTM 300? I have a yz250f and would like some extra fuel but I don't want to spend $350 on an oversized gas tank.😐
I have a 2001 Honda elite s 72cc big bore kit My Pilot is at 80 and my main is at 100 clip is in the middle spooge is coming out and I can’t seem to figure out the jetting
Keep up the good content, have you any tutorial videos on 2016 ktm map settings? I'm new to ktm can't see any helpful information online
In regards to density altitude, here’s a decent calculator.
wahiduddin.net/calc/calc_da.htm
If you know your altitude, you can get air temp, altimeter setting (usually phrased as pressure), & dew point from most weather apps. It’s amazing how different density altitude can be from physical elevation. I live @ roughly 1200’ above sea level. During the dog days of summer, that can equate to almost 4000’ density altitude. During the winter, it can be close to 0 or a negative number. That’s a larger range than actual elevation would suggest.
I’m not a perfectionist, but I enjoy playing around w/ the numbers. It explained a lot & helped me w/ my winter vs summer jetting.
My take. Manufacturers jetting is based on the oil/fuel ratio recommended for proper top end lubrication. If you use less oil in your mix you are richening your fuel. Adding more oil to your mix your leaning your fuel. The mix has nothing to do with the size of jets selected. It has everything to do with the lubrication. You should only consider jetting changes if indicators require it. Look at your plug chart to see if a change is required. And many other indicators such as spooge, pinging, bogging etc. @Enduro X is correct one change at a time.
Great pod cast, what a drama carbs are !! thank god KTM went to F.I
My bike perfect right now, it’s ofc got a bit more power when it’s colder outside. Im always close to sea-level. But should i start to lean out the bike to gain some power? It’s about 0 degrees celsius right now so it would be perfect to tune now so i don’t lean it out to much for the summer?
Edit: I should add i’m about one turn out on the air screw. So it’s rich, i don’t see any big smoke or running of oil. But the sparkplug is definitely black and not brown. With that being said, it’s still runs good. Just lacks those last ponies. It’s an ktm 125 exc 2009. I can’t remember the pilot jet. I recently cleaned everything on the bike. Also painted the frame etc basically new bike. Also new piston and crank. Anyways, i also need to buy jets so could lectron be an option?
Yeah u could go lectron or you could get a jd jetting kit for about $80 I think and would run really well but u would have to change ur jetting time to time
dumb question im running my miniGP bike on 25:1 4% mixture and it is not drool oil and run god.
what is the comment fields take on that, should i go up to 32:1 mix?
Some current KTM owner's will never go with TPI, throttle potty injection, guessing were going with Beta next time, I thought ktm was helping industry, now with 3 named brands of bikes,all with TPI , are they helping anything in the industry
They are helping keep it alive. It is under attack. Newer, cleaner running 2t engines are a great thing. We should do our best to figure out how to like them. CA is playing the long game. Some day there wont be any bikes left that are legal to ride on public land there. It seems like we have some pretty popular people campaigning against 450’s too. I’m against being against dirt bikes. I’m glad we have em.
When you tore your knee up a while back, did you have your mobius x8 on at the time? Thanks 🏁🤙
Not to speak for Kyle but he has said in previous videos that he DID NOT at the time of his injury. he was actually on a trials bike when he was injured.
What causes a runaway 2 stroke? And how is it fixable?
It took 45 minutes to explain moving the needle up and down :D
Is that nickleback playing in the intro?
I am struggling with this problem now. And need help
Hey everyone I need some help jetting. I just bought a 2022 yz250x and it’s a beast! I’m running stock jets right now with the pilot jet 50 2nd position clip on the needle and a 178 main jet. I live in southern New Mexico 4000ft elevation and temps are around 85 low humidity. Need some more bottom to mid power. Plus I’m fouling plugs like crazy. Any suggestions??
That pilot is to big and the main.
11:27 Dude you seozed your CR250 in no time with saber.
I’m not getting a lot of oil dripping but I’m getting smoke and was told I’m running to rich
More oil leaner less oil richer with the same jetting.
Getting famous off of comments day 264, so I can live the dream, live every day like it’s your last🤙
So if I run motorex I should be using 65:1
Yes, that will work great.
Motul 800 2 oz per gallon
What about tuning a kiehin pj carb choke fuel enrichment knob
2024 Yz 125x manual 30:1 yamalube.
Motul 800
I've been jetting bikes for 55+ years.......after listening to your "explanation" , my advice is: Don't give up your day job for teaching. Good info and no organization.
Actually Tom, this is my day job. Have a wonderful day.
Take us to school then there Tommy boy. Seriously. I run a 2021 yz250x at 3500ft. 32:1 .. where would you start as a baseline ? Thx.
🍿
@@innerfire-graham9016 Best thing to do is not run 32/1 even if you’re jetting is perfect I have Unburned oil if you’re running yamalube 2-R they recommend running it between 32/1 to 40/1 so I would run it at 40/1 plenty enough oil for whatever you’re doing and after that if you’re having jetting issues get a jd jet kit and if you want the best for hard Enduro/ Single track run whatever they recommend for Sand at your altitude because with it being richer you will have more bottomend and still not have Oil pouring out your exhaust and filing plugs
Thats a pretty ignorant thing to say there bud. Great information Kyle.
Bugging at WOT
2nd
I don’t understand why you people talk about ratio in 50:1 or 32:1 when it’s just so much simpler to say 3% or 2% of oil
It’s easier to say 50:1 or 40:1 because I know how much oil is for each ratio
@@tc1254 Idk in my head it's just so much easier to calculate it with a fixed percentage. Like 3% oil, i filled about 10L fuel. That's 3dl oil...
@@Xfacehack 🤷🏻♂️
The best thing for people to do is stop watching these youtube videos.