I like the shadowfoam approach of directly cutting the outline with a scalpel. Worked pretty well for me so far. Just lightly cut around to mark the outline, then go over again to get to the required depth.
Define “cut way inside the traced line”. I understand you want the finished product to be tight but clearly you don’t any it too tight that you have to go back and remove additional foam. So are you cutting on the inside of the black line ? A 1/16th, an 1/8th or what ? Thanks again for the video ! Great information. I appreciate learning all the best practices before wasting my time and money making mistakes.
Great series of Kaizen foam videos you took the time to share with us. You did a fine job of showing your audience an efficient method of obtaining professional results in what could be a visual disaster. Your results reflect on your high standards of workmanship, which I’m sure is representative of the quality, and attention to detail in the service/product you offer to your customers. Thank you for the tutorial.
This is amazing. I watched your video and tried to rough cut it and it looked terrible, so I followed your instructions and it came out really professionally done. I think also the tip on using a pick really helps for removing foam. Thank you for doing this video, everything you said worked wonders
Fantastic tip! I was doubtful at first, thinking maybe the tape would make cutting difficult or dull my blades faster, and wondered if it was really necessary. I invite anyone else with doubts to grab some scrap foam and do a test both with and without painters tape for one of your tools. Actually running the test yourself makes it obvious that using painters tape is vastly superior. Honestly it just helps with every part of the process and if you are using sharp enough knives they'll cut through it like butter. Also, for anyone reading this, do yourself a huge favor and get the FastCap "thin knife", it cannot be overstated how much it helps with curves and corners, you won't know how you ever thought you could go without it.
Why would you argue against finger pulls. They're always going to be easier and better. You're free to do what you wish, but that was honestly the dumbest logic I've seen. Tell me how great the box end of a 5 mm wrench is at being a finger pull. It takes literally 5 seconds to cut these straight finger pulls and adds nothing but benefits. Once again, horrible logic arguing against finger pulls. But you do you. Lol
@@StanMisiano similar. Toyota specific so I’m not lugging everything around plus not listening to it jingle and bang going down the road and around corners. Lol
Best video I have ever seen on Kaizen foam! I was so hesitant to buy this or to get the cheaper foam version but you definitely convince me to get the Kaizen foam instead!👍🏼👍🏼
Much appreciated. It's definitely great stuff and worth it in the end. Only downfall is that it does take a little while to get it all done. But once it's done it's very satisfying to have.
Love those videos, man! Just got into building my own bike-toolbox. Any tricks on getting the edges in clean shape of a Pelicase for example? Cheers from germany!
I would use cardboard, paper, or tape up make a template for those cases and then when that fits like you want, use that template to get the shape to cut the foam to. Shadow Foam is also another company that makes toolbox foam like this, but their based out of the UK. They do a lot of precut foam for different cases, I might suggest seeing if they have one that's already pre cut for your pelican case.
@@StanMisiano The drones (the noisy bits) are not that bad, its the fact they are wood (no using a knife against), and the fact that they are all joined together with some cordage (rope)... and expensive ($3000). Wish I could add a photo as only did it yesterday!
Although it looks very aesthetically pleasing and I’m sure tickles some peoples OCD, I think I’ll be sticking to alternative wrench organizers that stand the wrenches up on there side. Saves a lot more space and leaves a lot of extra space for when you add-on.
I'm not short on space at all, and I like having everything laying down flat. Hence why I did it that exact way. You'd save even more space throwing everything into a single toolbox cavity if you're super concerned about taking up space. Lol
@@StanMisiano I’m not arguing the foam just stating my opinion, as someone who doesn’t have anywhere near full sets of tools, I would hate to cut out full drawers with a smaller toolbox and come to realize I need some sort of odd ball tool and end up with no designated spot for it. I feel the foam is more for someone who has and knows that they have everything they need and they know they will not be changing any tools out any time soon
@@StanMisiano Yes exactly, I simply came to check out the product to see if it was something I would like to use through your video. After I watched , being that I’m planning on buying a small 5 draw tool cart from HF, I don’t think this is going to work for me. Especially since I’m new to working on my own vehicles and have no idea yet what tools I do and do not need. So for now I would like some sort of organizing to where I can keep expanding if needed and have organizers that allow more room (like standing wrenches up flat). I don’t know why your being so condescending, all I’m trying to say is this is cool and very aesthetic but it isn’t going to work for me at this time…
@@coltengebo4135 you're giving your opinion, I'm giving mine. That's how that works. If I didn't like the product or how I laid it out, I wouldn't have done it that way. It's all really simple. Lol
That only works when it's fresh. If it sits for too long, it's not coming off completely. This way is by far a neater method, plus the tape keeps the foam in place when cutting.
@@88172631 I'm using the Fastcap marker. It's shown quite literally in the video. I've tested it before as well and it didn't come completely off, I could still see where it once was. My method is foolproof, no need to worry about not seeing marks, or leaving marks on the finish surface, plus it helps keep the foam in place when cutting, making the cuts cleaner. You either utilize the idea or not, that's all up to you. However, after just doing like 12 drawers, which includes doing a couple hundred sockets not just large tools like wrenches and pliers, I'm pretty damn confident saying this is the literal best method to lay out and trace tools.
If you let the market sit too long, it will not fully come off. There will be a faint mark leftover. If that's the way you want to go, there's nothing wrong with that. However, the method in this video not only ensures you leave no marks behind, but also makes it much much easier to see the traced lines. Either way you want to do it though, all your call.
Thanks for the tip Stan. I’ll try your method. Where did you purchase that really wide painter’s tape ? I have cut the foam for each if my 9 drawers in a new 46” Husky tool chest, and so far everything is running smoothly. Thanks for your videos my friend….. Best to you, Rick
What about using a marking knife to do the initial outline? Do you need a specific knife to cut this stuff or can i go at it with my marking knife and x-acto set?
A lot of people will not even trace the tools out with a marker and instead just use a knife to go around the tools like you just mentioned. Totally doable. I just preferred this method because it's far less likely to make a mistake and you can cut the insert tighter to get a better fit on the tool. But that's all up to you in preference. As far as knifes go, I wouldn't use either if this you mentioned. Only because the blades probably are too thick and if you're cutting tools with a tight radius, you might not be able to get a good accurate cut. But anything is doable, so if you're used to using those knives, I'd say test it out on some scrap pieces and see how it works out.
It still leaves marks, I have the silver ones as well. They're actually probably worse because they're leaning more towards a paint marker, therfore they smudge like crazy.
I'm assuming it helped. Because I have a couple wrenches that are extremely close to each other. Like definitely way closer than recommended. And I only had one tear happen. But that one spot was 100% my fault because I didn't cut it deep enough and ripped it when I was peeling the layer out. But even that one spot is very small.
Hi . Do you have any ideas on how to keep the test leads with a multimeter in the foam . Obviously there is the option to cut out the foam for the tester and leave the leads plugged in, but keeping the leads stored in the foam is where i have hit a wall. Can you help me please. Regards Don Codman
Would a Dremel tool make too much of a mess? I feel like a Dremel tool would make a great tool for cutting, rounding, and shaving the foam down to size.
the only problem i could see with that is achieving a uniform depth, the knife is great as you can select the length and cut that same depth around the entire cut, humans aren't perfect and your hand can slip with a dremel cutting in a little deeper in some parts over others. other than that it might melt the foam? (depending on the speed selected on your dremel?) it would be a cool idea though, might have to experiment and try it myself...
It'll definitely melt the foam. But it doesn't burn and go hard like a shoe lace would for example. I made a bit holder drawer by burning tiny holes using an old drill bit and getting it red hot and pressing it into the foam. Worked fantastic.
I plan on watching the entire video because I have the foam and knives in my cart to order but I watched the first couple of minutes and just a thought but couldn’t you just use a black sharpie to touch up any stray silver or gold marker that might be visible after the cut? I’m ordering the silver marker. Again, not criticizing your method just exchanging ideas
Yeah you could try that, but the black marker would still be visible. Especially black Sharpie, just because black Sharpie is a weird metallic purple ish look when compared to a flat black backgrounds. But it is something you could do, however if you wanted absolutely no left over marks like I did, this is definitely the way I'd recommend. But with that said, there's no wrong way to do it, it's all just preference.
Oh ok. Yeah the idea just like jumped into my head immediately so just through it out for thought. Do like the attention to detail tho. We’re kind of cut from the same cloth I think lol
@@samh9072 you can also wipe the marker away with like alcohol or mineral spirits. But I felt it still left a tiny bit of noticeable marker. And it only really worked on fresh marker, not some that's been drying for a little bit. But just wanted to give you another option too.
great vid.......only thing i dont like about this foam......it degrades really fast from petroleum products an the foam holds static! so not good for electronics! its made of pool noodle type foam. but i do love the toolkit they sell to cut the foam
Not real big on Kaizen foam you lose a lot of space even though it's organized I rather have the space for personal use but for factories it helps as long as tools are put back!
The space you loose is insignificant compared to having proper organization. I can immediately go into any drawer and pull out exactly what I want. No need to be fumbling around looking for tools.
Although it looks very aesthetically pleasing and I’m sure tickles some peoples OCD, I think I’ll be sticking to alternative wrench organizers that stand the wrenches up on there side. Saves a lot more space and leaves a lot of extra space for when you add-on.
I'm not short on space at all, and I like having everything laying down flat. Hence why I did it that exact way. You'd save even more space throwing everything into a single toolbox cavity if you're super concerned about taking up space. Lol
I like the shadowfoam approach of directly cutting the outline with a scalpel. Worked pretty well for me so far. Just lightly cut around to mark the outline, then go over again to get to the required depth.
Only issue with that is there's too much chance for a mistake to happen for me.
You’re a rockstar!!! Thank you for the tips and fantastic video.
Greatly appreciated, glad you liked all the tips! 🙏
Just found this video and I have to say the trick with the blue painters tape is ther bomb!! Thanks so much for sharing your time and expertise!
Happy to hear you found it useful, I definitely think this is the best way.
Define “cut way inside the traced line”. I understand you want the finished product to be tight but clearly you don’t any it too tight that you have to go back and remove additional foam. So are you cutting on the inside of the black line ? A 1/16th, an 1/8th or what ? Thanks again for the video ! Great information. I appreciate learning all the best practices before wasting my time and money making mistakes.
Just need to figure out which works best for your individually.
Great series of Kaizen foam videos you took the time to share with us. You did a fine job of showing your audience an efficient method of obtaining professional results in what could be a visual disaster. Your results reflect on your high standards of workmanship, which I’m sure is representative of the quality, and attention to detail in the service/product you offer to your customers.
Thank you for the tutorial.
Greatly appreciated
Superb!!!
This is golden
Many thanks for sharing I have been struggling with the other methods
Yours is an absolute game changer!!!
🙏🏻👏🏻
Appreciate it, and glad to hear it helped. 🤙🤙
This is amazing. I watched your video and tried to rough cut it and it looked terrible, so I followed your instructions and it came out really professionally done. I think also the tip on using a pick really helps for removing foam. Thank you for doing this video, everything you said worked wonders
Happy to hear you found the tips useful.
Fantastic tip! I was doubtful at first, thinking maybe the tape would make cutting difficult or dull my blades faster, and wondered if it was really necessary. I invite anyone else with doubts to grab some scrap foam and do a test both with and without painters tape for one of your tools. Actually running the test yourself makes it obvious that using painters tape is vastly superior. Honestly it just helps with every part of the process and if you are using sharp enough knives they'll cut through it like butter.
Also, for anyone reading this, do yourself a huge favor and get the FastCap "thin knife", it cannot be overstated how much it helps with curves and corners, you won't know how you ever thought you could go without it.
Glad to hear you liked the idea. I truly agree that it makes a world of difference and is well worth the extra few seconds to put the tape down.
Thanks for the video-great ideas and most helpful.
Glad to hear, thank you!!
You don’t need finger holes for box wrenches. Simply use the box end of the wrench as the finger pull.
Why would you argue against finger pulls. They're always going to be easier and better. You're free to do what you wish, but that was honestly the dumbest logic I've seen. Tell me how great the box end of a 5 mm wrench is at being a finger pull. It takes literally 5 seconds to cut these straight finger pulls and adds nothing but benefits. Once again, horrible logic arguing against finger pulls. But you do you. Lol
@@StanMisiano woah! Who’s arguing? You must be one angry mother fucker based on this and other similar posts.
I simply reply to comments, I didn't tell you to comment something so bizarre. Lol
Brilliant idea!!
🙏🙏
Great Idea! thanks for sharing it. i will use it for sure
Thank you, and good luck on your project. 🙌
Wow, thanks for the tip. It looks amazing. If you wrenches look like that, I hope there is a shop tour in more recent videos to watch.
I had originally planned on doing a full toolbox video, just haven't had the chance to. Maybe soon I will try to!
Thanks mate. I'm about to do this with my wrenches in a Packout slim.
Definitely worth the time, good luck!
I need to do that with a car kit
I'm doing one myself this year instead of having everything just in my trunk.
@@StanMisiano similar. Toyota specific so I’m not lugging everything around plus not listening to it jingle and bang going down the road and around corners. Lol
I hear you on all those! I take a small jack with me too, so it's always banging around. Lol
The blue painters tape is key. Combine that with a long-tip marker. Oh man, you made my day lol!
Glad to hear it, that method has definitely made doing my toolbox a lot nicer. Lol
Great video thanks for posting! Can't wait to do this and get my tools organized like this. Painter's tape is a great idea.
Appreciate it! The foam organization is definitely a little on the time consuming side, but well worth it in the end. Good luck on the project!
Best video I have ever seen on Kaizen foam!
I was so hesitant to buy this or to get the cheaper foam version but you definitely convince me to get the Kaizen foam instead!👍🏼👍🏼
Much appreciated. It's definitely great stuff and worth it in the end. Only downfall is that it does take a little while to get it all done. But once it's done it's very satisfying to have.
nice idea
Thank you 🤙🤙
Love those videos, man! Just got into building my own bike-toolbox. Any tricks on getting the edges in clean shape of a Pelicase for example?
Cheers from germany!
I would use cardboard, paper, or tape up make a template for those cases and then when that fits like you want, use that template to get the shape to cut the foam to. Shadow Foam is also another company that makes toolbox foam like this, but their based out of the UK. They do a lot of precut foam for different cases, I might suggest seeing if they have one that's already pre cut for your pelican case.
Nice. Great tips.... i'm using Kaizen for my bagpipes :D
That must have been quite the intricate project!
@@StanMisiano The drones (the noisy bits) are not that bad, its the fact they are wood (no using a knife against), and the fact that they are all joined together with some cordage (rope)... and expensive ($3000). Wish I could add a photo as only did it yesterday!
@@aguywhodoesstuff that sounds like a ton of work!
Although it looks very aesthetically pleasing and I’m sure tickles some peoples OCD, I think I’ll be sticking to alternative wrench organizers that stand the wrenches up on there side. Saves a lot more space and leaves a lot of extra space for when you add-on.
I'm not short on space at all, and I like having everything laying down flat. Hence why I did it that exact way. You'd save even more space throwing everything into a single toolbox cavity if you're super concerned about taking up space. Lol
@@StanMisiano I’m not arguing the foam just stating my opinion, as someone who doesn’t have anywhere near full sets of tools, I would hate to cut out full drawers with a smaller toolbox and come to realize I need some sort of odd ball tool and end up with no designated spot for it. I feel the foam is more for someone who has and knows that they have everything they need and they know they will not be changing any tools out any time soon
@@coltengebo4135 oh you mean someone just like myself with pretty much every hand tool I could ever really need?
@@StanMisiano Yes exactly, I simply came to check out the product to see if it was something I would like to use through your video. After I watched , being that I’m planning on buying a small 5 draw tool cart from HF, I don’t think this is going to work for me. Especially since I’m new to working on my own vehicles and have no idea yet what tools I do and do not need. So for now I would like some sort of organizing to where I can keep expanding if needed and have organizers that allow more room (like standing wrenches up flat). I don’t know why your being so condescending, all I’m trying to say is this is cool and very aesthetic but it isn’t going to work for me at this time…
@@coltengebo4135 you're giving your opinion, I'm giving mine. That's how that works. If I didn't like the product or how I laid it out, I wouldn't have done it that way. It's all really simple. Lol
Great job with the video Stan!
Greatly appreciate it
Heads up: you can use 70% isopropyl to remove the marker lines from the foam. Silver on black foam is the way to go, and cleans up easily.
That only works when it's fresh. If it sits for too long, it's not coming off completely. This way is by far a neater method, plus the tape keeps the foam in place when cutting.
I just tested cleaning up week-old silver Fastcap marker off of their foam. Came off right away. :shrug:
@@88172631 I'm using the Fastcap marker. It's shown quite literally in the video. I've tested it before as well and it didn't come completely off, I could still see where it once was. My method is foolproof, no need to worry about not seeing marks, or leaving marks on the finish surface, plus it helps keep the foam in place when cutting, making the cuts cleaner. You either utilize the idea or not, that's all up to you. However, after just doing like 12 drawers, which includes doing a couple hundred sockets not just large tools like wrenches and pliers, I'm pretty damn confident saying this is the literal best method to lay out and trace tools.
Great video. The marker is easily removed with denatured alcohol and there is no damage to the foam
If you let the market sit too long, it will not fully come off. There will be a faint mark leftover. If that's the way you want to go, there's nothing wrong with that. However, the method in this video not only ensures you leave no marks behind, but also makes it much much easier to see the traced lines. Either way you want to do it though, all your call.
Thanks for the tip Stan. I’ll try your method. Where did you purchase that really wide painter’s tape ?
I have cut the foam for each if my 9 drawers in a new 46” Husky tool chest, and so far everything is running smoothly. Thanks for your videos my friend…..
Best to you, Rick
@@rickmoses6152 there should be a link in the description to the painter's tape
@@StanMisiano Thank you Stan !
@@rickmoses6152 anytime, good luck with the project as well
What about using a marking knife to do the initial outline? Do you need a specific knife to cut this stuff or can i go at it with my marking knife and x-acto set?
A lot of people will not even trace the tools out with a marker and instead just use a knife to go around the tools like you just mentioned. Totally doable. I just preferred this method because it's far less likely to make a mistake and you can cut the insert tighter to get a better fit on the tool. But that's all up to you in preference. As far as knifes go, I wouldn't use either if this you mentioned. Only because the blades probably are too thick and if you're cutting tools with a tight radius, you might not be able to get a good accurate cut. But anything is doable, so if you're used to using those knives, I'd say test it out on some scrap pieces and see how it works out.
The silver marker supposedly wipes off so you won't have marks left after cutting.
It still leaves marks, I have the silver ones as well. They're actually probably worse because they're leaning more towards a paint marker, therfore they smudge like crazy.
Nice, I am curious how the tools that are super close together if the tape prevented a cut through scenario?
I'm assuming it helped. Because I have a couple wrenches that are extremely close to each other. Like definitely way closer than recommended. And I only had one tear happen. But that one spot was 100% my fault because I didn't cut it deep enough and ripped it when I was peeling the layer out. But even that one spot is very small.
Hi . Do you have any ideas on how to keep the test leads with a multimeter in the foam . Obviously there is the option to cut out the foam for the tester and leave the leads plugged in, but keeping the leads stored in the foam is where i have hit a wall. Can you help me please. Regards Don Codman
I'm not sure what the confusion is, just cut out a spot in the foam to store the leads. Unless I'm missing something here.
@@StanMisiano Hi .. its the length of cable ... are you saying cut a slit and just shove the leads flex into the slit ?
@@doncodman913 roll the cables up and cut in a spot for them to go
Did you send this video to Paul Akers? I think he'd be impressed that you Kaizen'd the Kaizen foam!
Haha Maybe one day. Lol
Would a Dremel tool make too much of a mess? I feel like a Dremel tool would make a great tool for cutting, rounding, and shaving the foam down to size.
I personally wouldn't do it, but I'm not sure if anyone else has ever tried.
the only problem i could see with that is achieving a uniform depth, the knife is great as you can select the length and cut that same depth around the entire cut, humans aren't perfect and your hand can slip with a dremel cutting in a little deeper in some parts over others. other than that it might melt the foam? (depending on the speed selected on your dremel?) it would be a cool idea though, might have to experiment and try it myself...
It'll definitely melt the foam. But it doesn't burn and go hard like a shoe lace would for example. I made a bit holder drawer by burning tiny holes using an old drill bit and getting it red hot and pressing it into the foam. Worked fantastic.
What size you use for the foam
30 mm
Do you always use 30mm?
I plan on watching the entire video because I have the foam and knives in my cart to order but I watched the first couple of minutes and just a thought but couldn’t you just use a black sharpie to touch up any stray silver or gold marker that might be visible after the cut? I’m ordering the silver marker. Again, not criticizing your method just exchanging ideas
Yeah you could try that, but the black marker would still be visible. Especially black Sharpie, just because black Sharpie is a weird metallic purple ish look when compared to a flat black backgrounds. But it is something you could do, however if you wanted absolutely no left over marks like I did, this is definitely the way I'd recommend. But with that said, there's no wrong way to do it, it's all just preference.
Oh ok. Yeah the idea just like jumped into my head immediately so just through it out for thought. Do like the attention to detail tho. We’re kind of cut from the same cloth I think lol
@@samh9072 you can also wipe the marker away with like alcohol or mineral spirits. But I felt it still left a tiny bit of noticeable marker. And it only really worked on fresh marker, not some that's been drying for a little bit. But just wanted to give you another option too.
Ty!
@@samh9072 no problem!
Anybody know where I can get this type?
The foam can be purchased from FastCaps website
Thank you!
@@15w84 not a problem
Use the knife to cup round the tool, no need for extra step or need to buy the marker
Yeah, I would never do it that way. I have an entire video on the topic.
great vid.......only thing i dont like about this foam......it degrades really fast from petroleum products an the foam holds static! so not good for electronics! its made of pool noodle type foam. but i do love the toolkit they sell to cut the foam
None of my tools have that issue and my foam is holding up great so far.
The foam isn’t layers??
Yes it is
Yea I don’t have the patience for this. 😅
I totally understand. Lol It's really not that difficult once you get the hang of it though. Just a little time consuming.
This video could have been 8 mins if u didn’t keep repeating yourself
Can't please everyone, luckily there are many other videos out there for your viewing pleasure.
Some people learn from repetition....
Not real big on Kaizen foam you lose a lot of space even though it's organized I rather have the space for personal use but for factories it helps as long as tools are put back!
The space you loose is insignificant compared to having proper organization. I can immediately go into any drawer and pull out exactly what I want. No need to be fumbling around looking for tools.
This dude has way too much time on his hands
This did in fact take quite some time, but the result is incredible.
Too much wasted space
If you think so
Although it looks very aesthetically pleasing and I’m sure tickles some peoples OCD, I think I’ll be sticking to alternative wrench organizers that stand the wrenches up on there side. Saves a lot more space and leaves a lot of extra space for when you add-on.
I'm not short on space at all, and I like having everything laying down flat. Hence why I did it that exact way. You'd save even more space throwing everything into a single toolbox cavity if you're super concerned about taking up space. Lol
@@StanMisiano Did you read “How Not to Win Friends and Influence People”? Lol
@@RustyCas999 no, would you mind summarizing for me?
The reason for the foam is to make sure all the tools are returned to the toolbox after a repair. This is mostly for aviation.
This definitely isn't just for aviation, this goes for pretty much any shop scenario.