Incredible channel, I’ve learned more about the mechanics of my car with you than with my local “mechanics”. Thank you Pierre, greetings from the Canary Islands, fixing myself my 1987 W124 230E
Been having trouble passing smog m104.980 . High HC, but not outrageous. Noticed at idle I can set my mix via lambda port and the mechanical side of the system dives rich when I raise rpm (duty cycle goes toward zero on lambda). I decided to finally check differential pressures and found 91 system and 82 Working for a diff of 9! Or .68 Bar. So I had to dial the EHA counter clockwise about half a turn and eventually got it dialed in 5-6 PSI difference. I rechecked lambda and set the tower screw for the system running at 50% . It's running much better now and I noticed its not going rich when I raise the RPM. Also if anyone finds you have zero psi differential but the idle seems to change when you open the valve, you have the hoses hooked up the wrong way and need to switch them. Took me a few minutes to notice what was going on. Initially opening the valve caused only a small change in idle. After EHA adjustment it really bogs it down when I crack the valve, like opening an EGR valve at idle.
Pierre there is a point in the video where you say you are reading control pressure which is higher than the working pressure. 6.0 with valve shut, open the valve reading control pressure 6.3. This info is very valuable none the less.
Haha I agree. Appreciate Pierre’s love and care for these Mercedes, but it would be impossible to explain something so important to Mercedes heads and make everyone cringe and round for the hills. The only reason people put up watching the murder is hoping to find out if the perp got away or not.😮 A little constructive criticism… Move the camera out… way out! Next do some show prep, organize your example pieces. The way he held everything, I have never seen anything like it. 😂 I thought for sure that Fuel pressure rig was going to tangle him up and us viewer would have to call 911 live to have someone race over to the shop and see if he’s still alive and still breathing. I image the paramedics would find him all tangled up under his desk with his glasses dangling off his right ear, but not yet fell the 6’ to the floor. Not even SNL could do a skit this good. My favorite part of the whole video was the way Pierre held the distributor and explains how and where to connect the BOA constrictor fuel pressure rig. Dude it was literally upside down, everyone at home had to get off our chairs and stand on our heads to even get if we were lucky a microsecond glimpse of this magical location. So in closing Pierre all the words above was done in love❤, you have taught all of us valuable information included myself over the years. You know it just hit me we all have heard the phrase “God works in mysterious ways” Right? Tomorrow I’m getting up and going to call my Dr and then I’m going to grab all my depression and other emotionally balancing drugs and flush them down the toilet. And every morning and night I will watch this video and enjoy the greatness of how within one short video my spirit has jump with joy. I literally feel so happy right now! I’m not sure if you changed my control or working blood pressure, by dude its .04 right now. If you were really smart, if every video could be laid out like this you would have a million followers. Where else could we learn critical Mercedes head scratching information and come out at the end and be so happy that you run to the garage and actually begin to like working on that old classic. Well done! Well done!
This was an absolute invaluable video, especially for anyone working on classic European vehicles. What is the kit that you used, our k-jet test kit doesn't have the silver fuel line adapter you've shown. Thanks.
Although 0.4 bar is spec, the factory set them a little on the lean side, and I have found that 0.45 bar will actually make the throttle response a little better and can help get rid of a slight stumble on acceleration. I have found this especially true on the M103 engines, but any KE engine can benefit from the 0.05 bar increase in differential pressure.
Hi Pierre. So, the correct procedures are : 1. Getting the Working Pressure about 0.4 bar higher than the Control Pressure. 2. To test the Working Pressure is by closing the valve of the pressure test kit, run the engine and see the pressure reading on gauge. Vv for testing the Control Pressure. Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!
you are the best, thank you, I have a problem with the waste of fuel, in addition, there is carbon on the spark plugs, and the burning is not good W126 M103, so what is the best solution for this problem, thank you very much, Sir
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 I am asking because I recently did this procedure on an M103 (for the first time *correctly*), and I still just have a feeling that I didn't quite nail it, or it just could still be tuned better. Thanks Pierre
w124 230e 1991 102engine. Lower chamber pressure at 3.4bar. control pressure 7.4bar. Car runs , got it 2 weeks ago. What could cause such a low system pressure? Fuel pump works. Fuel Pressure Regulator replacement? Beautiful car, but someone screwed up the fuel system. Also seems like the EHA valve is on some sort of mechanical mode as it has no effect when unplugged. Any W124 forums you can point me to, would be much appreciated!
Hi great videos! Totally helpful. I have an issue with a Sl560 Ke jetronic. Fuel is not coming aout from feul distributor to the injections. Fuel pump run fuel si coming in to distributor but not aout to injections!!!
I hadn’t thought about doing this level of testing of my fuel injection, but after watching this video I kinda want to do it just because I’m curious and it sounds kinda fun. I don’t have a poor-running engine, but it is cranky on start. Unless I press the gas pedal ahead of start (cold or hot engine), I wind up most of the time doing a ~2-second crank before it turns over. Once in a blue moon it’ll start up almost instantly without any gas pedal pressure-so I don’t know what part(s) are guilty as charged for this problem.
I have this exact same problem(1989 VW 16v KE-Jet), although on cold starts where I have to apply some gas pedal to get it going it will try to die for at least 10-20seconds with no added throttle. After watching this video, I reverified my Differential pressure and seemed to be slightly lean, .3-.4 bar. I adjusted the DPR, new differential pressure is ~.4-.5 bar. I also recalibrated EHA current afterwards ~5Ma. Problem persists. Seemed to start a bit easier but still dies immediately after the first firing, and takes a few seconds with no throttle to start up on its own. @@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753
@@EverythingRollsRoyce I think that was part of it as with all KE-jetronic, it never seems to be one thing. But I swapped my ISV and also had to bump up my differential pressure. And now she starts cold or warm no issues! Thanks for the reply.
This is very helpful! I will definitely measure my pressures using my newly bought fuel pressure meter (not with the valve unfortunatly) 1 question I have is: whats the role of the fuel pressure regulator in these pressures? What does it mean for the pressures in the system if that one is bad? What am I supposed to read as pressure coming from the lines from the regulator?
complex question. the fuel pressure regulator can actually allow too much pressure to stay in the system if it is bad. So the pressure regulator has to keep the pressures within a given range under all conditions. On cars with one fuel pump, this is 5.4-5.6 bar. on cars with 2 pumps, this is 6.2-6.5 bar.
Mercedes Classics with Pierre Hedary my car W124 300E-24 is equipped with 2 fuel pumps and my system pressure reads 6.0 bar. what could be wrong here ? Fuel pumps are bad ?
I have a 90 300E that isnt running right and this may be my problem. The car wont rev up off of idle. It just stalls or falls flat on its face. At one point the problem went away when i cracked loose a fuel line while it was idling. It ran fine for a week after until i changed the fuel filter. After that the problem returned and im at a loss as to why its acting this way. Any help is appreciated
Hey very good videos thank you so much I have a 1992 500 SL that I got fro a Frend it was parked up in 2015 and now I am trying to get it started it will not start I have change the fuel pumps fuel is coming up to the fuel distribution but it is not coming out can you please guide me as to what next should I do.
Hell sir , its very informative about the K-jet fuel pressure i have w124 with M102 engine can you help me that what will be the working Pressure and control pressure . Thanks
Hi! Thanks for the video! I have a 260e m103 that starts perfectly fine but wouldn't rev more than 2.500-3000 rpm. I tried adjusting the EHA 1/4 turn but did nothing, then I thought that the adjusting scew felt very loose, so I checked online and apparently the "starting" position for the adjusting screw is about 6.6mm deep. Mine was waaay less so I adjusted it to approximately 6.6mm. I know I'm not supposed to adjust without a pressure gauge but I was desperate (went about 10turns in). The car now runs exactly the same as before the adjustment. Do I have a broken EHA? Couldn't find anyone in the area that would touch my car. They only work on modern cars. Any answer would be greatly appreciated . Thank you!
Hello, BMRL and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible. By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre. If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
Pierre, love all your videos. A question, when checking the fuel pressure as you describe, If the working & system pressures are the same and opening or closing the fuel gauge valve has no effect on the pressures and adjusting the EHA adjusting screw has no effect on either raising or lowering the pressure differential on the gauge, does this mean the EHA is bad?
Hi Pierre, on my 560 sl The lower chamber reads 6.3 bar, open valve and no change stays constant 6.3 bar. Turned in eha 1/4 turn, no change. Any ideas, is there a test for eha?
Hi Pierre, Thank you for your helpful videos! I have just one question about using te valve in your set-up. With the valve closed, you are measuring the raw pressure directly from the fuel pump. After that, you open the valve and read the control pressure. Isn't the number that you reading then, an average of the fuel pump pressure and the control pressure? Because you will directly connect the top chamber of the fuel distributor with the raw pressure. Thanks in advance, Tom
Thank you Pierre for all the information I'm rescuing a 300E and been working for a while on this mb I have a question for the tachometer works after awhile been in motion anybody knows how to check it is it the speed sensor? Thx
Hi Pierre. First of all thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge. My question is related to the EHA to be detached when you test pressures. Do you need you block those two conducts that are exposed when you detach the EHA to avoid any fuel going out thru them?
So I have watched your videos on the KE-Jetronic, and others, but no one seems to address the issue of having good fuel pressure to the distributor, but no fuel out of the injector lines--except for the cold start injector. Any suggestions as to what would cause this? Thanks
When you open the valve, on the middle of your hose. don't you transfer fuel from (high pressure) working pressure to the (low pressure side) controlled pressure ? if yes, do that flow cause wrong measurement ? don't you thing that two gauges better than this ? (no fuel transferring)
1. these are the gauges. there are not "better gauges". this is the factory set up. 2. you can do it either way 3. fuel transfer or no fuel transfer seems to have zero effect on accuracy.
Pierre,.. Excellent video could you please clarify why you make the adjustments on thr EHA but leave it unplugged ? Also , could this be done with just bridging the fuel pump relay or must the car be running for the EHA to get voltage Many thanks . Pete
fuel pump relay does not have any effect on EHA voltage. EHA settings are adjusted off the car. pressure readings should be made at first with EHA unplugged in analog mode/
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 Thank you for your reply, Could i ask you another question please. Im having trouble with my MFI injected ford escort rs turbo. The injectors are dripping. I have checked the fuel pressure at the cold start outlet and it is correct. I have changed the filter etc. And checked for blockages etc. Recently i gave up and bought a new set of genuine bosch injectors. The spray pattern is perfect but again , with the pump running , the injectors weep slightly and i can hear clicking like the the nozzle pintle is constantly lifting . This too me says there is too much pressure at the injectors with just the fuel pump running. I wonder if the plunger in the metering head needs to be adjusted lower so that no fuel is delivered when the flap is at its rest point. Could you please advise me as its driving me mad. Thank you for your time Kind regards Pete
2 thumbs down from Kent Bergsma and JG Francis 💩 Just kidding Pierre very helpful and we'll explained video. Thank you for unselfishly sharing your knowledge and taking time to make this. Much appreciated!
@ Mark333032: You can use the pressure gauge set-up shown on this video to check fuel pressures on cars equipped with K- Jetronic system. First thing to do is to disconnect and remove the fuel lines from the fuel distributor to warm-up regulator. You can now connect one of the test fuel hose to the fuel distributor and the other test fuel hose to warm-up regulator. Now you can check fuel system primary pressure, cold and warn control pressure including the holding pressure. All the best. Cheers!!!
@ Carl Moser: Size of sealing o-rings between EHA and Fuel Distributor. Thickness- 2mm. Outer Circumference-10mm. Inner Circumference 6mm. You need Two(2) fuel resistant type O-rings. I hope this answer your question.
Pierre, you don't actually say what the ideal pressures (control and working) are. Only that the difference is important. I understand why, but also what should the exact pressures be? At a minimum? I tested my M103, and it is showing about 40psi with little to no change when switching the valve from off to on. This is with new fuel pumps, filters, accumulator, literally everything at the rear is new.
Just to follow up on this for anyone interested... I discovered that my (new) gauge set was not assembled properly, and this was the reason for the incorrect reading. Once I rectified the problem, the readings were spot on, complete with a .4 Bar pressure differential! Thanks!
your 500sel does not use an EHA. the cold start valve usually does not go bad. OVP is often linked to high idle and ABS light. OVP number 2015400845. Your warm up regulator may hold some clues here....with a warm engine, the inlet line pressure on the WUR should be 3.4-3.8 bar.
Thanks for great videos. Where’s a good place to get a set of gages? My 84 M116 has rough idle when warmed up and also if parked for longer than half hour tends to act like is flooded when starting on warm days.
www.toolsource.com/fuel-injection-test-sets-c-1321_182_184/cis-kjetronic-fuel-injection-tester-p-91537.html?sourceid=googleps&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvdXpBRCoARIsAMJSKqKmRLGLWV7xg7oV2S9nrm-yTza_rbdsJI69K9vpCbP60aV6wOEwHEMaAkhTEALw_wcB also, it isn;t flooded. you likely have a bad pressure accumulator.
the sun ana;yzer is telling you the amount of co2 in the exhaust emissions. This is about setting the fuel pressures so that the engine has enough fuel available to match the amount of air coming in. The two are closely related, as the EHA setting affects the amount of co2 in the exhaust.
Hi Pierre, I got a 1986 420SL, and would like to check the upper chamber and lower chamber fuel pressure of the fuel distributed. Can you provide me the figures? Do you have a contact email address? Sincerely. Paul from Hong Kong
I sold my 2.3-16 months ago, but I still watch that, as if to remind myself how big a pile of shit that needlessly complicated system is... Great video tho
I don't have many issues with it....I think if you had a manual, someone to explain it to you, or maybe the correct tools, you wouldn't have such an issue. Name 1 fuel injection system that can function with its control unit disabled.
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 sorry for vague answer I meant the KE Jtronic as a whole. my Mercedes specialized mechanic has never been able to locate the issue with a car that would stall on downshifts and fire up erratically
@@Adn476 stalling on downshifts sounds to me like a fuel pump relay issue. Irregular starting...could also be a fuel pump relay. Did anyone verify that during these instances the car actually had fuel delivery? I find the nine times out of ten, when there is an irresolvable issue like this, it is due to the errors of the mechanic, not the engineers who built it.
Mercedes Classic with Pierre Hedary I saw your knees with not much room in one of your recent videos. My son who’s 28 is just like you in height. His knees come up like that in the R107. He loves driving it anyway.
Thank you Pierre! You are an invaluable asset to the MB Community!
Incredible channel, I’ve learned more about the mechanics of my car with you than with my local “mechanics”. Thank you Pierre, greetings from the Canary Islands, fixing myself my 1987 W124 230E
Been having trouble passing smog m104.980 . High HC, but not outrageous. Noticed at idle I can set my mix via lambda port and the mechanical side of the system dives rich when I raise rpm (duty cycle goes toward zero on lambda). I decided to finally check differential pressures and found 91 system and 82 Working for a diff of 9! Or .68 Bar. So I had to dial the EHA counter clockwise about half a turn and eventually got it dialed in 5-6 PSI difference. I rechecked lambda and set the tower screw for the system running at 50% . It's running much better now and I noticed its not going rich when I raise the RPM.
Also if anyone finds you have zero psi differential but the idle seems to change when you open the valve, you have the hoses hooked up the wrong way and need to switch them. Took me a few minutes to notice what was going on. Initially opening the valve caused only a small change in idle. After EHA adjustment it really bogs it down when I crack the valve, like opening an EGR valve at idle.
Brilliant. You won't find a better explanation on the internet.
Pierre there is a point in the video where you say you are reading control pressure which is higher than the working pressure. 6.0 with valve shut, open the valve reading control pressure 6.3. This info is very valuable none the less.
One of my favorite videos, Pierre. First order of business on my 560.
haha, glad you're paying attention
You have obviously paid your dues. Excellent info.
Great video keep up the great work Pierre
Haha I agree. Appreciate Pierre’s love and care for these Mercedes, but it would be impossible to explain something so important to Mercedes heads and make everyone cringe and round for the hills. The only reason people put up watching the murder is hoping to find out if the perp got away or not.😮 A little constructive criticism… Move the camera out… way out! Next do some show prep, organize your example pieces. The way he held everything, I have never seen anything like it. 😂 I thought for sure that Fuel pressure rig was going to tangle him up and us viewer would have to call 911 live to have someone race over to the shop and see if he’s still alive and still breathing. I image the paramedics would find him all tangled up under his desk with his glasses dangling off his right ear, but not yet fell the 6’ to the floor. Not even SNL could do a skit this good. My favorite part of the whole video was the way Pierre held the distributor and explains how and where to connect the BOA constrictor fuel pressure rig. Dude it was literally upside down, everyone at home had to get off our chairs and stand on our heads to even get if we were lucky a microsecond glimpse of this magical location. So in closing Pierre all the words above was done in love❤, you have taught all of us valuable information included myself over the years. You know it just hit me we all have heard the phrase “God works in mysterious ways” Right? Tomorrow I’m getting up and going to call my Dr and then I’m going to grab all my depression and other emotionally balancing drugs and flush them down the toilet. And every morning and night I will watch this video and enjoy the greatness of how within one short video my spirit has jump with joy. I literally feel so happy right now! I’m not sure if you changed my control or working blood pressure, by dude its .04 right now. If you were really smart, if every video could be laid out like this you would have a million followers. Where else could we learn critical Mercedes head scratching information and come out at the end and be so happy that you run to the garage and actually begin to like working on that old classic. Well done! Well done!
This was an absolute invaluable video, especially for anyone working on classic European vehicles.
What is the kit that you used, our k-jet test kit doesn't have the silver fuel line adapter you've shown.
Thanks.
Although 0.4 bar is spec, the factory set them a little on the lean side, and I have found that 0.45 bar will actually make the throttle response a little better and can help get rid of a slight stumble on acceleration. I have found this especially true on the M103 engines, but any KE engine can benefit from the 0.05 bar increase in differential pressure.
you're absolutely right. they are all set up lean. i usually end up setting them up an .05 bar as well.
Thanks Pierre
As always a very informative easy to understand video
Hi Pierre.
So, the correct procedures are :
1. Getting the Working Pressure about 0.4 bar higher than the Control Pressure.
2. To test the Working Pressure is by closing the valve of the pressure test kit, run the engine and see the pressure reading on gauge. Vv for testing the Control Pressure.
Please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!
many thanks for posting this- very useful for my W201 16v.
Thank you so much, I will definitely be using this in my r129 500SL
you are the best, thank you, I have a problem with the waste of fuel, in addition, there is carbon on the spark plugs, and the burning is not good W126 M103, so what is the best solution for this problem, thank you very much, Sir
FANTASTIC! I would also love to see this done on a running vehicle!
3rd request. I can't say no now!
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 XD
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 I am asking because I recently did this procedure on an M103 (for the first time *correctly*), and I still just have a feeling that I didn't quite nail it, or it just could still be tuned better. Thanks Pierre
I don't have one but a super video. Thanks. Liked
Great info as always. Thanks for sharing.
HI this is great video.With all respect but can you clarifying if this test need to be done on engine runing or off using fuel pump bridge?Thank you.
Many thanks for this one Pierre.
you are most welcome
w124 230e 1991 102engine. Lower chamber pressure at 3.4bar. control pressure 7.4bar. Car runs , got it 2 weeks ago. What could cause such a low system pressure? Fuel pump works. Fuel Pressure Regulator replacement? Beautiful car, but someone screwed up the fuel system. Also seems like the EHA valve is on some sort of mechanical mode as it has no effect when unplugged. Any W124 forums you can point me to, would be much appreciated!
Thanks bro , this fuel distributor have complicated system pressure
Thankyou for all videos Pierre l have 1988 300 se can you to please the fuel pressures
Hi great videos!
Totally helpful.
I have an issue with a Sl560 Ke jetronic.
Fuel is not coming aout from feul distributor to the injections.
Fuel pump run fuel si coming in to distributor but not aout to injections!!!
I hadn’t thought about doing this level of testing of my fuel injection, but after watching this video I kinda want to do it just because I’m curious and it sounds kinda fun. I don’t have a poor-running engine, but it is cranky on start. Unless I press the gas pedal ahead of start (cold or hot engine), I wind up most of the time doing a ~2-second crank before it turns over. Once in a blue moon it’ll start up almost instantly without any gas pedal pressure-so I don’t know what part(s) are guilty as charged for this problem.
this does sound like a slight lean mixture.
I have this exact same problem(1989 VW 16v KE-Jet), although on cold starts where I have to apply some gas pedal to get it going it will try to die for at least 10-20seconds with no added throttle. After watching this video, I reverified my Differential pressure and seemed to be slightly lean, .3-.4 bar. I adjusted the DPR, new differential pressure is ~.4-.5 bar. I also recalibrated EHA current afterwards ~5Ma. Problem persists. Seemed to start a bit easier but still dies immediately after the first firing, and takes a few seconds with no throttle to start up on its own.
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753
@@adeloro6879 Sound a little like a stick idle speed valve?
@@EverythingRollsRoyce I think that was part of it as with all KE-jetronic, it never seems to be one thing. But I swapped my ISV and also had to bump up my differential pressure. And now she starts cold or warm no issues! Thanks for the reply.
Where do we fing this fuel line test hose with the couplers and shut off valve
This is very helpful! I will definitely measure my pressures using my newly bought fuel pressure meter (not with the valve unfortunatly)
1 question I have is: whats the role of the fuel pressure regulator in these pressures? What does it mean for the pressures in the system if that one is bad? What am I supposed to read as pressure coming from the lines from the regulator?
complex question. the fuel pressure regulator can actually allow too much pressure to stay in the system if it is bad. So the pressure regulator has to keep the pressures within a given range under all conditions. On cars with one fuel pump, this is 5.4-5.6 bar. on cars with 2 pumps, this is 6.2-6.5 bar.
Mercedes Classics with Pierre Hedary my car W124 300E-24 is equipped with 2 fuel pumps and my system pressure reads 6.0 bar. what could be wrong here ? Fuel pumps are bad ?
Thanks for the informative video, is it possible to replace a k-jetronic directly with the ke-jetronic fd system if your k-jet is faulty?
If i have a differential of 0.2 bar with the EHA disconnected, what do I need to do?
Hi it is a great video . My car is 3.0 MB 300e and I have 4.8-5.2 bar is that ok or should be 6-6.4 bar
I mean it is 6 cylinder 3.0 l
Great info Pierre. 👍
Thank you for your info and video. Very helpful.
I have a 90 300E that isnt running right and this may be my problem. The car wont rev up off of idle. It just stalls or falls flat on its face. At one point the problem went away when i cracked loose a fuel line while it was idling. It ran fine for a week after until i changed the fuel filter. After that the problem returned and im at a loss as to why its acting this way. Any help is appreciated
Hey very good videos thank you so much I have a 1992 500 SL that I got fro a Frend it was parked up in 2015 and now I am trying to get it started it will not start I have change the fuel pumps fuel is coming up to the fuel distribution but it is not coming out can you please guide me as to what next should I do.
Hello thank you for the effort exerted how much is the ideal pressure ratio when it is alha when it works well
Thanks so much Pierre
Hell sir , its very informative about the K-jet fuel pressure i have w124 with M102 engine can you help me that what will be the working Pressure and control pressure .
Thanks
Hi
Why there is a holes in it.k jectronic.
I have the fuels coming from the holes.
Can it be repaired by glue.
Let me know.
Thank you
whats are the correct pressures for 89' ferrari testarossa??
did you know if the 0.4 bar is good for the testarossa ! and if i both it from ferrari dealing it should be already set ?
Where can I get the gauges to test fuel pressure
thank You so much Pierre!
so where may I find such pressure gauge.?
Where can I get a kit to check pressure
I am getting 6.7 bar regardless of the position of the tester manual valve. Does that suggest that the EHA is bad?
Hi! Thanks for the video! I have a 260e m103 that starts perfectly fine but wouldn't rev more than 2.500-3000 rpm. I tried adjusting the EHA 1/4 turn but did nothing, then I thought that the adjusting scew felt very loose, so I checked online and apparently the "starting" position for the adjusting screw is about 6.6mm deep. Mine was waaay less so I adjusted it to approximately 6.6mm. I know I'm not supposed to adjust without a pressure gauge but I was desperate (went about 10turns in). The car now runs exactly the same as before the adjustment. Do I have a broken EHA? Couldn't find anyone in the area that would touch my car. They only work on modern cars. Any answer would be greatly appreciated . Thank you!
Hello, BMRL and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
Pierre, love all your videos. A question, when checking the fuel pressure as you describe, If the working & system pressures are the same and opening or closing the fuel gauge valve has no effect on the pressures and adjusting the EHA adjusting screw has no effect on either raising or lowering the pressure differential on the gauge, does this mean the EHA is bad?
Hi Pierre, on my 560 sl
The lower chamber reads 6.3 bar, open valve and no change stays constant 6.3 bar. Turned in eha 1/4 turn, no change. Any ideas, is there a test for eha?
I've got an slk230 I've been working at diligently, I was researching 190evo 2 models and the m111 that I have. seeing what could be interchanged
Hi Pierre, Thank you for your helpful videos! I have just one question about using te valve in your set-up. With the valve closed, you are measuring the raw pressure directly from the fuel pump. After that, you open the valve and read the control pressure. Isn't the number that you reading then, an average of the fuel pump pressure and the control pressure? Because you will directly connect the top chamber of the fuel distributor with the raw pressure.
Thanks in advance,
Tom
You're also invaluable to the old VW, Audi, and Porsche community with CIS fuel systems.
Thank you Pierre for all the information I'm rescuing a 300E and been working for a while on this mb I have a question for the tachometer works after awhile been in motion anybody knows how to check it is it the speed sensor? Thx
Hello great video can anyone tell me what voltage is used to test this valve 12v 9v or 5v ? Thank you
Can a k jet tonic fuel dist. For a v8 Mercedes fit on a v8 rolls royce silver spirit system
Hej Pierre
Kan man fixa sådana instrument skälv?
Eller kan man köpa vi dig och vad är priset?
MvhJonny
hi, my EHA is leaking a little bit in between the 2 pins. I don't see leaks anywhere else. Is it bad? Should it be replaced?
This video was good 👍
Awesome
Thank you
Kindly do it on a running as it will be easy for some of us. 😉
ok, duly noted.
Does the same apply in a no start scenario ?
Hi Pierre. First of all thanks for the video and sharing your knowledge. My question is related to the EHA to be detached when you test pressures. Do you need you block those two conducts that are exposed when you detach the EHA to avoid any fuel going out thru them?
So I have watched your videos on the KE-Jetronic, and others, but no one seems to address the issue of having good fuel pressure to the distributor, but no fuel out of the injector lines--except for the cold start injector. Any suggestions as to what would cause this? Thanks
Fuel obviously has to get through the distributor. So you either have a blockage or the plunger is not lifting.
When you open the valve, on the middle of your hose. don't you transfer fuel from (high pressure) working pressure to the (low pressure side) controlled pressure ?
if yes, do that flow cause wrong measurement ?
don't you thing that two gauges better than this ? (no fuel transferring)
1. these are the gauges. there are not "better gauges". this is the factory set up.
2. you can do it either way
3. fuel transfer or no fuel transfer seems to have zero effect on accuracy.
Pierre,..
Excellent video could you please clarify why you make the adjustments on thr EHA but leave it unplugged ?
Also , could this be done with just bridging the fuel pump relay or must the car be running for the EHA to get voltage
Many thanks . Pete
fuel pump relay does not have any effect on EHA voltage.
EHA settings are adjusted off the car.
pressure readings should be made at first with EHA unplugged in analog mode/
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753
Thank you for your reply,
Could i ask you another question please.
Im having trouble with my MFI injected ford escort rs turbo. The injectors are dripping. I have checked the fuel pressure at the cold start outlet and it is correct. I have changed the filter etc. And checked for blockages etc.
Recently i gave up and bought a new set of genuine bosch injectors. The spray pattern is perfect but again , with the pump running , the injectors weep slightly and i can hear clicking like the the nozzle pintle is constantly lifting . This too me says there is too much pressure at the injectors with just the fuel pump running. I wonder if the plunger in the metering head needs to be adjusted lower so that no fuel is delivered when the flap is at its rest point. Could you please advise me as its driving me mad.
Thank you for your time
Kind regards
Pete
What if I have K Jet and no EHA?
2 thumbs down from Kent Bergsma and JG Francis 💩 Just kidding Pierre very helpful and we'll explained video. Thank you for unselfishly sharing your knowledge and taking time to make this. Much appreciated!
you're welcome. thanks for watching!
is the exact testing kit in this video for sale somewhere? thanks!
Which ports do us K-Jetronic owners use for measureing fuel pressures please?
@ Mark333032: You can use the pressure gauge set-up shown on this video to check fuel pressures on cars equipped with K- Jetronic system. First thing to do is to disconnect and remove the fuel lines from the fuel distributor to warm-up regulator. You can now connect one of the test fuel hose to the fuel distributor and the other test fuel hose to warm-up regulator. Now you can check fuel system primary pressure, cold and warn control pressure including the holding pressure. All the best. Cheers!!!
What is the size of the O-rings behind the EHA?
BTW, this is a great instructional video.
Now I need to find a reasonably priced gauge/hose set.
@ Carl Moser: Size of sealing o-rings between EHA and Fuel Distributor. Thickness- 2mm. Outer Circumference-10mm. Inner Circumference 6mm. You need Two(2) fuel resistant type O-rings. I hope this answer your question.
Would be very helpful if you could do it on an actual car while it is running. Thanks
always an improvement to be made (:
Pierre, you don't actually say what the ideal pressures (control and working) are. Only that the difference is important. I understand why, but also what should the exact pressures be? At a minimum? I tested my M103, and it is showing about 40psi with little to no change when switching the valve from off to on. This is with new fuel pumps, filters, accumulator, literally everything at the rear is new.
the ideal is the difference....not so much the pressures
youll have to email me about the 300e/
Just to follow up on this for anyone interested... I discovered that my (new) gauge set was not assembled properly, and this was the reason for the incorrect reading. Once I rectified the problem, the readings were spot on, complete with a .4 Bar pressure differential! Thanks!
Wow that was interesting!
its easier on a 450sl...I promise
👍🏻
Super late to your channel! This is great stuff. Where do we get that kit?
All of the major European parts sites like FCP euro have it
I am living in the Caribbean
you are the man! Please do the testing in a real car! ahaha. Thank you so much!
Has anyone ever tried putting a benz fuel distributor on a Rolls Royce same cylinders and years k jet same type or aluminum or cast
How could I find what part number cold start valve and ovp relay my 85 500sel needs? I wanna verify that before I tear into this.
your 500sel does not use an EHA. the cold start valve usually does not go bad. OVP is often linked to high idle and ABS light. OVP number 2015400845. Your warm up regulator may hold some clues here....with a warm engine, the inlet line pressure on the WUR should be 3.4-3.8 bar.
Update on my Cla-250 sport 15” it now has 119,000 miles 0 problems I guess cause mine was made in Hungary
hungary...wow...you lucked out most were made in the wrong place.
And subscribed
If my car won't stay running with the EHA unplugged and the gage is setup?
Thanks for great videos. Where’s a good place to get a set of gages?
My 84 M116 has rough idle when warmed up and also if parked for longer than half hour tends to act like is flooded when starting on warm days.
www.toolsource.com/fuel-injection-test-sets-c-1321_182_184/cis-kjetronic-fuel-injection-tester-p-91537.html?sourceid=googleps&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvdXpBRCoARIsAMJSKqKmRLGLWV7xg7oV2S9nrm-yTza_rbdsJI69K9vpCbP60aV6wOEwHEMaAkhTEALw_wcB
also, it isn;t flooded. you likely have a bad pressure accumulator.
Please, disregard my previous post you said unplugged and not detached. Sorry.
😍😍😍
Please do it on a running car please
ok...will do!
Also please explain the difference between this and useing a sun machine gas Annaliser befor the cat and Turning the set screw located on top
the sun ana;yzer is telling you the amount of co2 in the exhaust emissions. This is about setting the fuel pressures so that the engine has enough fuel available to match the amount of air coming in. The two are closely related, as the EHA setting affects the amount of co2 in the exhaust.
Hi Pierre, I got a 1986 420SL, and would like to check the upper chamber and lower chamber fuel pressure of the fuel distributed. Can you provide me the figures? Do you have a contact email address? Sincerely. Paul from Hong Kong
No Ferrari here! Have not accumulated enough gold nugget jewelry to merit getting one 😀
I sold my 2.3-16 months ago, but I still watch that, as if to remind myself how big a pile of shit that needlessly complicated system is...
Great video tho
I don't have many issues with it....I think if you had a manual, someone to explain it to you, or maybe the correct tools, you wouldn't have such an issue. Name 1 fuel injection system that can function with its control unit disabled.
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 sorry for vague answer I meant the KE Jtronic as a whole. my Mercedes specialized mechanic has never been able to locate the issue with a car that would stall on downshifts and fire up erratically
@@Adn476 stalling on downshifts sounds to me like a fuel pump relay issue. Irregular starting...could also be a fuel pump relay. Did anyone verify that during these instances the car actually had fuel delivery?
I find the nine times out of ten, when there is an irresolvable issue like this, it is due to the errors of the mechanic, not the engineers who built it.
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 yes my mechanic had the fuel pump relay replaced with a functioning one, but that didn't change anything really
You're a great orator. Do you read a lot or what?
No Ferrari for me! I don’t have tall enough stilettos to merit getting one!
lol....I can't even fit in one
Mercedes Classic with Pierre Hedary I saw your knees with not much room in one of your recent videos. My son who’s 28 is just like you in height. His knees come up like that in the R107. He loves driving it anyway.
Another extremely poorly explained video.
Вставьте субтитры на русском пожалуйста.
Ugh…. Do this ON THE CAR!!! you know what you’re talking about but you cannot make a video worth a darn