▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼ 🎥 Watch Next - 5 Tools I Regret Buying - ruclips.net/video/9UNOASuIJx8/видео.html 🛠 Tools In This Video: Table Saws: DeWALT Table Saw - amzn.to/3GgvkEP Skil Table Saw - amzn.to/3jPVg2F SawStop Jobsite Saw - amzn.to/3IiTe5k SawStop Cabinet Saw (my big table saw) - amzn.to/3Co1g9n Woodworking Routers: DeWALT Router - amzn.to/3ZeWGEe Ridgid Router - homedepot.sjv.io/x9xVKy Bosch Router (I use this one in my router table) - amzn.to/3vId428 Milwaukee Cordless Router - imp.i284638.net/doXNoW Dust Extractors: Festool Dust Extractor in Video - amzn.to/3ifMI4G DeWalt Dust Extractor - amzn.to/3GCxBLU Festool Dust Extractor I Use for my Miter Saw - amzn.to/3VKArCU DustRight Separator - amzn.to/3WMiFk8 Favorite Dust Mask - amzn.to/3Io95iQ Miter Saws: DeWALT Miter Saw - amzn.to/3VMw5eG Festool Miter Saw - amzn.to/3VLXRb1 Delta Miter Saw - homedepot.sjv.io/15jn5D Ridgid Miter Saw (same as Delta, just orange) - homedepot.sjv.io/x97X31 Makita Miter Saw - amzn.to/3WLeoNT Drill Press: Budget (like mine) Wen Drill Press - amzn.to/3GjQzpg Mid Tier Drill Press Benchtop - amzn.to/3CnGMgF Mid Tier Drill Press Floor Standing - amzn.to/3jSFh3W Top of the Line Drill Press - amzn.to/3CmUgcC Other Drill Presses You May Consider - amzn.to/3QemkEK Other Tools I Recommend: My Favorite Table Saw Blade (for 10-inch saws) - amzn.to/3GBZfJ5 Favorite Miter Saw Blade - amzn.to/3Io3F7N Good Router Bit Starter Set - amzn.to/3Z8wafB Shirt I was wearing - www.shieldsofstrength.com/iron-sharpens-iron-short-sleeve-t-shirt-proverbs-27-17/ My favorite work boots (use code 731WOODWORKS to get $10 off) bruntworkwear.com/731woodworks Camera Gear I Use - kit.co/731Woodworks/camera-gear-i-use Computer Equipment I Use - kit.co/731Woodworks/731-woodworks-computer-equipment Some of my Favorite Under $30 Tools DFM Square: amzn.to/3Jfb5H2 Thin Rip Jig: amzn.to/3LKm2lB DFM Saw Height Gauge: amzn.to/3jidia1 Small F-Clamps: lddy.no/157u9 (If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission) Some other useful links: Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals Subscribe the 731 Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
For absolute beginners, definitely get a cordless drill and driver. Going from one corded drill to a cordless drill and cordless driver is life changing.
Just bought that Skil saw myself, based off your recommendation. Haven’t unboxed it yet, gotta clean the shop first. Looks like a bomb went off down there lol. Since moving into the home a decade ago, the shop has been the storage room for all our crap. No more!! I’m cleaning it out and reclaiming it in the name of woodworkers everywhere 💪
The one tool I do not regret buying is a good hand plane. I think the 5 1/2 is the perfect combination of form and function, and as a person without a jointer and not enough room to put a jointer anywhere, my hand plane gets a lot of work done.
I second that. I have no jointer either, so I use a combination of scrub plane and 60 cm long wooden jointer plane. That thing trasnformed my work process the most since japanese saws.
@C C the one I ended up getting, was the lie Nielson 5 1/2. It is expensive but for me worth it. I see it as time vs. money thing. I also have a lie Nielson no 4 as well. There are a lot of good manufacturers, I have a stanley 5 from 1920, but it took work to get it in shape. And it was much cheaper than my lie Nielson, but when it came to it, I did not want to go through the hassle with reconditioning another plane. But new stanley planes, with the exception of the sweetheart low angle jack, are kind of trash. You can make them work, but it is a lot of work to get them in shape. I have a woodriver 6, but it is not great for the money. I replaced the blade, which could not hold an edge, and the tote comes loose because of poor manufacturering. Not to seem like a lie Nielson super fan, but I have a veritas router plane and small plow plane, and a scrub plane, all very good planes. I just do not like the adjusters on their bench planes. Sorry if it is tl/dr but wanted to share some of the reasoning with you as well.
@@douglasanderson7260 My first plane was a new production stanley. Plastic handle, terrible grinding marks, very out of flat sole, chip breaker that was very crooked. Long story short, I only managed to make it work after I learned on wooden planes a better quality new production Luban plane (I think they are almost identical to woodriver, but for Euro market)that was almost ready to use from the box. So getting a lie nielsen is great idea, especially for people who are serious about woodworking, but do not have the experince to make things that are not up to par work as they should.
I have the Dewalt DWE7485 mentioned in this video. I LOVE it. When I first got it, saw blade options were limited due to 8 1/4 inch blade, but there are a ton on the market now. I have not had a project yet that this saw couldn't handle. The fence is amazing, but I would recommend making a zero clearance blade insert for this saw if you want to do more intricate cuts.
@@garrybray7173 At the time I got mine, the only two blade options were the blade it came with, and Dewalt made a 60 tooth fine cut blade for it. I would swap between the two depending on what kind of cut I was making.
We have the 7485 on the jobsite as flooring contractors. My dis-illusion with the yellow and black comes from twenty five years ago...and this old grudge dies hard. However...this lil guy is a workhorse. We make a lot of "don't do this at home" ripping as we try to make hardwoods match the wobbles, curves and wows in walls. (Don't EVER think your wall is straight!) We use the very common 7 1/4" blades common to most corded and many upscale cordless circular saws...because we WANT them to warp...so we can make those swerving cuts. Makes ya wanna shudder, don't it? That said...when the fence is on it as solid as any fence on any contractor grade saw on today's market...after spending a year and a half bouncing around in the back of a work van crammed full of tools. Had need of the fence for a seriously complicated cut in preparation for a tongue cutter in a router. Spot on...to within .001". If I had need for another table saw...I have two running, three sitting aside and another awaiting a full restoration I would certainly consider this saw, even with the limitation of depth of cut. Don't believe me? Watch Tamar @ 3x3!
2 words, impact driver. 2 more, Ryobi Quietstrike. 2 more, Milwaukee Surge. I have 4 years with the Ryobi Quietstrike. LOVE the trigger control, pulsing control, and quiet operation! Dislikes: size and weight. I always use this for what I LOVE about it! I have ordered a new Milwaukee Surge which uses the similar hydraulic drive system and is much more compact and includes newer features as well. I expect to be "wowed and amazed"!
The first big power tool I bought was a miter saw. I hate it. It’s loud. It has practically no dust extraction. I never use it. I pull out a hand saw or the table saw sled.
Mine is in the garage facing the door so I can use it with the garage door open. I still attach it to my dust extraction system which is only a cyclone and shop vac. My headphones protect my ears enough. I don’t even know what it sounds like without them!
First off, I love your shirt bro. I'm not a huge woodworker, but started getting into it more. I'm more so into meta work and automotive. I've always been of the mindset of it's better to buy a used high quality tool than a new low quality tool. A little while back I responded to an ad for a very reasonably priced Delta compound miter saw. When I got there it turned out he was a cabinet maker and moving from South Jersey to Florida to retire. What was originally going to be a $75 purchase ended up being almost $2,000 and 2 more trips to his shop. I spent a lot that day, but got a lot of high end equipment that I do not regret buying.
I Can honestly say that a Sander should be on this list. Almost everyone with a tablesaw is going to have some type of sander. I know from the wife and I, the sander was the 2nd or 3rd thing we bought when we started our business.
My compound sliding miter saw was the first major purchase I made and for years it was my go-to tool for lots of stuff I built. Once I got my table saw (DWE7491RS), that miter saw has been mostly collecting dust. When almost all your cross-cuts and miters can be made with a nice cross-cut sled, the only thing that sliding miter is used for is making cuts on long stock (aka tubifors ;), unless of course you do a lot of complex cuts on molding or something like that. I would add 2 items that you left out: (1) drill/driver/impact set. These get the most use for most stuff I do. (2) low-noise compressor. This opens up a world of inexpensive tools - brad/pin nailers, crown staplers, etc.. that are really useful.
I love your choices. I’m not to a point where I need a drill press, but good information for later. I would add drill and driver set, absolutely. My favorite purchase though, after using a cheap one, is my Festool random orbit sander. A quality sander can save a lot of arm/shoulder ache 😂!
I certainly agree with your choices! The table saw is probably the heart of any wood shop. I started with a Ridgid 3650 because of the fence and the trunion (the part the saw arbor mounts to). I’ve since upgraded to the SawStop 3HP cabinet saw. But I still have that Ridgid! Where we differ is my #2 power tool. To me, it’s the Band Saw. A good band saw can do so much! You can make your own veneers, you can make intricate joinery, and you can do some creative shapes. I actually have 2 band saws now (I’m luck to have space for them), so one is dedicated to resawing and one stays set up with a thin blade for making curvy cuts. :)
For me the absolute most used tool has been my impact driver. It Guess used far more than anything else I have. Also never let anybody tell you you have to buy a high-end one. I used everything from a $35 one up to multi-hundred dollar ones. If you're not doing construction or production work generally you can get away with lower budget ones and do just fine.
I would add a tabletop bandsaw too. It's kinda like a Dremel mototool: When you need it, it's the only tool that will do the job as quickly and easily.
Matt, first of all I love ALL of your content! The only addition that I would say is that a quality sander is a game changer compared to cheaper sanders that just don't perform well in terms of too much vibration and dust extraction.
I have almost everything you mentioned except for the dust collector. My miter saw is the Admiral 12" sliding miter saw. I love it! I'm just about ready to put another blade on it, I've used it so much. I've cut oak, mahogany and pine, and it did a great job on all three. My table saw is a Skilsaw model 3400. I know what you're saying about sentimental value there!
Bandsaw......so versatile but especially for resawing. I remember how frustrated I was being limited to dimensional lumber as some projects looked out of proportion. Now I can resaw into thinner pieces when called for.
Or if you replace the drill press with a high quality portable drill guide like the Rockler one as I have, then you could add a thickness planer in the 5 must have list. Then you _can_ shave the thickness down to what you want it to be. But that is such a waste because you have already paid a premium for having somebody else do the work of giving you at least two flat faces and even more for 4 flat parallel faces only to grind away a lot of that wood. So for me, a good bandsaw that can resaw rough dimensioned lumber is #5 1/2 on my list. And if you have a good source of rough cut lumber and resaw a lot of the wood that you use, a bandsaw will likely pay for itself in short order by not having to pay the premium for pre dimensioned wood (besides likely have a lot more species of wood to choose from). The only trouble is that band saws with enough depth to resaw wider boards (12 or so inches) and a good solid cast iron table and trunnion to dampen vibration, an accurate fence to get a good parallel cut to minimize work on the jointer or planer using a joiner jig, and enough power and fpm to make a clean relatively rapid cut on wide boards, like the $1500 14" 1.5 hp JET JWBS-14SFX, (and this is one of the cheapest full size bandsaws) are *_expensive_* not to mention large and heavy. The alternative are cheaper bandsaws that are limited to resawing narrower boards and don't have the power to cut very fast. The $500 Rikon 10-3061 appears from reviews to be a good choice. It has 1/2 hp motor and can resaw up to 5" wide boards.
two tools I have not regretted in addition to this list is an oscillating belt/spindle sander. amazing for sanding inside curves and small parts for boxes. the second is a benchtop jointer. I have since upgraded to a floor standing jointer but being able to joint the wonky box store lumber for glue ups was a game changer when I started and I use a jointer multiple times a week. was especially useful during hard times when I was only able to get free pallet lumber for building things. kept my sanity through the pandemic thats for sure.
Absolutely agree with this list - the only thing I would add is a good ruler/tape measure and a marker such as a Pica. Accuracy is key in my tiny wood shop - my Kapex can only cut as accurate as the measurements I give it. I finally invested in a Woodpeckers Ruler and a Narex marking knife - game changers!
Nice tool selection tips. Regarding the power issue on the Wen drill press, try switching your belt from the standard rubber v-belt to a link belt. It can help eliminate some of the run-out on your quill that might bind your motor. I know it helped me with my less expensive Grizzly. Hasn't bound up once since I changed over.
oscillating spindle sander is my best purchase. When I need it, it's invaluable. Definitely saves me so much time on a project and is my go to way to make rounded corners until I get a router table.
That little Makita router is AWESOME. It's bigger brother the 2-1/4HP is too, and it's compatible with the Musclechuck quick change collet system. Once you go to that, you'll never go back to two wrenches needed to change a bit. Also have the Makita 12in sliding miter saw. It's also amazing, having used the DeWalt, a Delta, and a Ryobi.
👏👏👏👏I have an advantage/disadvantage, my shop is the great outdoors, wind blowing sawdust is messy. I do use a dust mask. I have a 10” Delta miter saw, it’s great except it’s heavy.
I have an M18 fuel barrel grip jigsaw. The performance and the sound of the motor and the blade action puts a smile on my face. I’m a woodworker and I’m a Milwaukee person.
I would add a morticer . Mine has lasted decades. They are accurate and quick to use. I don’t recommend site saws. Spend a bit more and get a table saw with a solid table and micro adjust fence. Buy the biggest and heaviest you can afford. It is the number one workshop machine.
Great video, Matt! Man, could we make this a long list! In addition to the recommendations for drill/driver combos, bandsaw, planers, sanders, oscillating sanders… I’d have to say it is pretty nice having a combination belt/disc sander. These guys make short work of taking down large amounts of wood really quick!
Before I got my Sawstop, I had the DWE7491RS 10-in jobsite table saw. Portability is key in my shop. I'm too old to be picking up table saws, drill presses, bar bells :-). How about a Bandsaw blade review. Can't seem to find one I'm happy with.
For resawing the Laguna Resaw King can't be beat. It's going to hurt but they're great blades. Highland's WoodSlicer is really good too but, again, it's going to hurt. For general use?? I buy them from Highland for $30 or so. I need a selection of widths and TPI so don't spend a lot on general purpose blades.
I have the metabo 10” job site table saw. It’s pretty good and uses the rack and pinion fence as well. And it allows dado stacks as well. Maybe mention this one in a future video.
I've got that one too - so far I really like it, except for the riving knife which can't be removed, and you can't find zero-clearance plates or even a dado plate for it anywhere. You can fix the riving knife problem by chopping off a bit of metal with a dremel via the dust collection cleanout port, and it's easy enough to make a zero-clearance plate using the original as a router template, so not a deal breaker for me, and the 35" right side rip capacity has been a huge plus - the reason I bought it actually. Curious what you think of this saw.
@@jeffdesilva yeah I cut the bottom of the riving knife out so it can be removed. I just made my own zero clearance plates. I found the dado stack plate somewhere but can’t remember where. But I just again made my own. I like mine. I finally attached it to my workbench so it’s more solid. But haven’t had many issues at all.
About 20 years ago, I wanted to build my own house, so I decided to go big on tools. I got Delta X5 tools (table saw, band saw, etc). I also bought various DeWalt tools, routers, drills and more. At the time, I spent about $5000. I don't regret spending any of it, since I probably got $20,000 worth of use out of them. I still use most of them today. Other tools I like that I bought a few years ago was a DeWalt 13" planer and recently the DeWalt 12" sliding miter saw. No regrets here, but I use them a lot. Quality costs a little more, but I found that cheap turns out to be expensive.
As an electrician by trade, now retired. I have a real problem with DeWalt corded tools. While they may be good tools overall, their one drawback is the size of the power cord, especially for their JSS, Routers and Mitre Saws. I have purged my collection of extension cord, and when any of the cords on my power tools have become less than appealing, I have replace them with a length of AWG 14. Nearly every DeWalt tool I have looked at has an AWG 18 cord. For those who don't know, the larger the number, the smaller the wire, until you get to 1/0 and then the larger the number the larger the wire. Even in short runs, the smaller wires have a significant voltage drop which makes the tool work harder to produce the same results as a larger wire. If a tool doesn't have an AWG 14 cord on it, I pass right by it, because I know that I'm going to have to replace it, if not the tool itself in a few months or within a year at best. Heat is the enemy and the smaller cord heat up something terrible when under the kind of load a tool will put on them,
Definitely missed a good sander. All my tools are festool cause I love the comfort and system, could 100% use cheaper variants of most of what I have and get dewalt or makita for example, but the one thing I couldn't ever give up is a festool or mirka sander. Sanders are used for everything you make and the better sander you have the less damage you'll do to your hands that can result in nerve damage or an RSI in the long run. That's on top of the time you save and quality increase in your finishing and the eradication of hazardous dust from timber, paint and finishes. Every single person I've seen who says they 'hate' sanding picks up a festool sander hooked up to a vac and their face lights up. Absolutely a must have, even for a hobbyist restoring old furniture, especially if you rely on hand sanding or a hand me down sheet sander
Great information Mighty Matt! I will say that’s first time I’ve heard Dewalt and budget friendly in the same sentence. But I’m a ryobi guy so my experience with Dewalt is zero. Thank you for content.
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but possibly one of the best tools I’ve ever gotten is a good set of machinist blocks or 1-2-3 blocks. Mine are spot on within .001 inch on each measurement and perfect right angles. I’ve measured, adjusted, aligned, everything with them. And only about $20-30.
probably the biggest (and one of the most expensive!) I've made was a quality floor mounted drill press... A few times I've had something big I've needed to drill into... being able to simply swing the bed out of the way, and then just go for it... (It helps it's next to my massive vise... It's positioning isn't an accident..) Few times I've mounted something large in the vise, and been able to drill it with the press. (Stick a block or something under the thing supporting it... There's bits of scrap jarrah I've kept around for that very purpose.)
45 years woodworking, and I still don't have a miter saw, nor have any use for one (if I were framing buildings it'd be the FIRST tool to get, however).
100%. Mine is used very seldom in the shop. I do use it for installs, but if I were starting out, knowing what I know now, it would be WAY down the list.
Power tools are great but no shop is complete without the finesse tools. Hand plane, chisels, and sharpen stones/diamond plates/oil stones and a strop.
I got that Delta about 7 years ago to upgrade a Ryobi and have never regretted it. Great saw and once you square the fence it stays like that for a long time. Also got a full kerf 24T flat top blade and it doesn't have any problem going through 3-1/4" hardwood.
SAVE MONEY WITHOUT SACRIFICING QUALITY!! Sawstop has taken over. It is the saw everyone dreams of upgrading to and if you have the money it's absolutely worth it. However... all those upgrades makes finding a Delta Unisaw, Powermatic 66 or a General 350 on the secondary market very easy. These saws were all made in the USA and can be restored very easily. Even the Grizzly and Jet cabinet saws are a option. Look for one without the best fence can be a hidden gem. Building a set of Biesemeyer style rails can be done with a 2"x3" tube and a 3"x3" piece of angle iron. Then a fence from "Very Super Cool Tools"(yes that is the name of the fence) and you have a saw that your grandchildren will be happy to inherit someday. You can do this usually for less than 1/2 and maybe as little as 1/3 the price of a Sawstop cabinet saw. Tools from as early as 1920s and all the way through 2015ish can be easily restored, refurbished and maintained. All they ever need is a set of bearings and a little work on the motor. With the easy availability of VFDs you can save even more. Buying three phase equipment and converting it to single phase with a VFD can save even more. Just thought I'd mention this.
I have gotten tools of all types and brands but by far the one tool that has been the most valuable addition to my collection has been my Ryobi air strike 18 gauge nailer I have had other brands like Milwaukee but the Ryobi has been the best and most reliable.
I bought a Wen tracksaw and the 100 inch two piece track (and two clamps). At first, I bought it because it looked cool, but now I use it on almost every project where I am cutting plywood or sheets of MDF. I am so glad I got this! Great video! Agree about the table saw fence. My first (and current) table saw is a 15 year old Ryobi 10 inch, and it is not great. Looking to upgrade soon. Thanks!
Whew😅 I am a serious beginner wood worker and my wife for Christmas this year surprised me with the same Dewalt table saw you have in your video🤘🏻 I enjoy your channel and I subbed you up as well. God bless.
I am late to this video, but I just picked up the m18 router, and already its worth every penny. I used it to route 1/4 x 1/2 inch dados in the lengths of 2x4s for fencing wire. Probably 80 feet of dado. After a few passes with my circular saw and a hand chisel, the price tag became worth it hahaha. I am pleased to see it make your list. I have big plans for my little palm router
I agree that a drill press is a great addition to a shop. However, a good portable drill guide like the Rockler portable drill guide (their own $200 model, not the $60 Wolfcraft that Rockler resells) can do a lot of what a drill press can, and a lot of things that a drill press can't like drilling very accurate holes in an already assembled piece. As such I think a high quality drill guide is something that all workshops even if you already have a drill press. So when starting out, I would recommend getting portable drill guide first and then when space and money allow, get a drill press. This isn't about saving money since the Wen 10" benchtop drill press is also $200 (on Amazon), but about a tool that can give accuracy approaching that of a drill press while also giving you the necessary ability to drill accurate holes just about anywhere. So on the list of the top #5 large power tools, I would replace the drill press with a planer.
For miter saws, I have a 12 in Hercules I got at harbor freight and it's been a pretty good miter saw. I prefer the dewalt ot festool but this was a decent and readily available. My work bench, dining table, coffee and garage shelves all made with it and still making more projects.
@R H I just swapped to a diablo blade and that change was terrible. I feel like they could have made a better design, but other than that it's been a great saw. I'm actually surprised with its quality
I’ve had several Woodworkers tell me about getting air filtration/dust collection in my shop. I don’t have any windows, and I only use a Shotvac to clean up. That is definitely something I need to invest in. I’m going to look into the dust separator that you showed
A shop vac is the wrong tool. You want (NEED!) to catch the dust at its source. It's less work and your lungs will thank you, If you get into exotics, many are allergenic or even toxic. Belt and suspenders are needed here.
Yeah, I agree you should look into getting dust collection vs a dust separator. Even something like this would help a lot while you're still using the dust vacuum to filter the air. www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2TH28PN2SBT76&keywords=shop%2Bair%2Bcleaner&qid=1672961701&sprefix=shop%2Bair%2Bcleane%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-3&th=1
Thanks for the video. A good impact driver is essential in any shop I think. It's not specifically a woodworking tool, but boy does it make life better for driving screws etc.
What about drill press jigs to hold a corded/cordless drill? For those that already have or can buy cheap. A corded drill will be quite good at being a drill press for small projects imho
I haven't used a Miter saw in 4 years since i have my workshop. I like to get one at some point but I see it more as a luxury tool, I can break down wood on a table saw as well. Just to be really annoying, I found a vice and a workvench the most valuable tool of all the tools I have. I started in a small shed and till I build my workbench and installed a vice I was really struggling...
First big power tool I bought was a miter saw, probably 20 years ago and I still have the same one. I use it about twice/year, mostly for breaking down 4x4 construction lumber for random house projects. I just don't cut long boards so often that I can't just rough cut with a hand saw (or circular/track saw) and clean it up with a crosscut sled on the table saw. I'd replace that miter saw "must have" with a good drill and impact driver set. I have 20v and 12v yellow ones and have to say most of the time I reach for the lightweight (and cheaper) 12v ones, since they have plenty of power for basic woodworking tasks. Next to that would be a good random orbit sander (Festool/Mirka/3m are a game changers and worth every penny, but I still often pick up the battery powered brushless one for small tasks).
I bought a kobalt jobsite table saw, and I've regretted not checking out how the fence works first. I don't regret my kreg track saw though, goes a long way towards helping until I get a better table saw
I had a kobalt sliding miter saw too. Terrible play at full extension. I wound up buying a used Sears-Craftsman radial arm saw to use until I could afford a better one (which ultimately was the DW780)
The tools you won’t regret buying really depends on where you are with your woodworking skills, and budget. Assuming you have the budget, these are my five: Table saw Miter saw Planner Spindle/belt sander (Ridgid) Router (with plunge base) The above is assuming you have a drill/driver, shop vac, clamps, circular saw, jigsaw, sander and other necessary tools which are required to even start woodworking. I saw a few comments where guys mentioned a miter saw is a waste of money as they rarely use there’s. You can use a circular saw, or perhaps even a track saw in some instances, but I would argue that it’s more challenging to make beveled cuts, to make multiple cuts of identical lengths, to cut multiple boards at the same time and, you won’t get the accuracy of a miter saw. I use my miter saw on almost every project, but I rarely ever use my track saw, and yet a lot of guys use them all the time.
I actually like to use my radial arm saw over a miter saw. They just cut cleaner and more accurately when used correctly, however they're extremely dangerous and notoriously hard to keep aligned if used improperly, especially for new woodworkers. They also take up more room.
@@affliction1979 I occasionally watch a guy “The Dusty Lumber Co.” who uses both, a miter saw and radial arm saw, so there must be certain cuts where he prefers the radial arm saw. They just look like they can be pretty dangerous.
A table saw slide compound saw a dhandle router plunge 4x24 belt sander 5 inch sander Finish nailer pinner Stapler Micro pinner Great router table For cabinet doors And trim
You are so right about that I started up the wrong way buying cheap quality tools, they fall apart, so I save money to invest is good quality tools now I have no regrets Yes there might be cheap tools out there that works great but I will not bank on it
Random orbit sander, Belt Sander, Thickness Planer. Benchtop Sander. Yes belt sander. Sometimes you need to take material down quickly. such as when you make cutting boards or butcher block tops, but not enough to plane.
Good informatve video; l bought a 10" delta cruzer - which l like, lt replaced a 12" Dewalt - a great saw for framers but just too big for my little shop.
Some nail guns are nice for when you need them if you want to take a break from using screws. I depends what your doing of course. Bought a Milwaukee M18 Gen 2 Brad Nailer recently for DIY. So far I like it. Can't wait to pick up their pin nailer.
Another great vid, and another great shirt! I've got each of those 5 categories, but all except the bench drill need to be upgraded. Looking hard at the SawStop you've got there, the new one.
Sander should definitely be one. Granted those you can go pretty cheap and still get good performance out of them. So they are super budget friendly and are absolutely crucial to saving time sanding.
I bought the Wen drill press several years ago. The laser worked for a week and stopped. I called customer support and they sent me a new laser. After watching, I bet many have issues with the laser. I regret buying a router table and a low end 10" Mikita mitter saw without rails. I don't regret buying a Mikita rail saw. In my shop there's no space for a table saw. The rail saw still allows me to make accurate plywood cuts.
for a drill press even if you just want a small cheap one for a project don't get one that you can't crank adjust the table height, I got the cheapest wen one and it works fine but it's such a pain that the x/y of the table moves every time I change the height. I don't even really bother with a fence as a result which makes it a lot slower for certain operations, and the low end models with the crank aren't that much bigger or more expensive
I recently bought a radial arm saw, it cuts better than a sliding miter saw, it's more accurate, cuts wider boards and can do a few things a miter saw can't like rip and use a dado set. My only regret is that I didn't buy one sooner.
Couldn't agree more with your five choices. I'd absolutely add a circular saw and/or a plunge saw to the list of must have tools that you would not regret buying. That said, I'd definitely recommend a table saw a track saw, as it is a much more versatile tool for the home woodworker. However, like the paperback/Kindle debate, it doesn't have to be a binary choice. The great news, nowadays - especially with the general popularity of cordless tools - is that corded tools, both new and used, are much more affordable than when I started in woodworking. I've seen loads of great second hand options for the Makita corded plunge saw that I have used for years, simply because the cordless versions are so capable.
My Stanley block plane, what my grandson calls my pocket plane (also the only one he’s allowed to use just yet). It lives in its own pocket on my belt, and gets used for everything from breaking edges, to sharpening pencils.
My 5 are my planer ‘735, my table saw (dewalt, 10” about 12 year old job site saw), jig saw, 8 foot level (trust me on this, and not what you think) and my Bosch router. The router is a big model, the 1617EVSPK . I do want a smaller one for trim however, because this particular router is heavy.
▼EXPAND FOR LINKS TO THE TOOLS▼
🎥 Watch Next - 5 Tools I Regret Buying - ruclips.net/video/9UNOASuIJx8/видео.html
🛠 Tools In This Video:
Table Saws:
DeWALT Table Saw - amzn.to/3GgvkEP
Skil Table Saw - amzn.to/3jPVg2F
SawStop Jobsite Saw - amzn.to/3IiTe5k
SawStop Cabinet Saw (my big table saw) - amzn.to/3Co1g9n
Woodworking Routers:
DeWALT Router - amzn.to/3ZeWGEe
Ridgid Router - homedepot.sjv.io/x9xVKy
Bosch Router (I use this one in my router table) - amzn.to/3vId428
Milwaukee Cordless Router - imp.i284638.net/doXNoW
Dust Extractors:
Festool Dust Extractor in Video - amzn.to/3ifMI4G
DeWalt Dust Extractor - amzn.to/3GCxBLU
Festool Dust Extractor I Use for my Miter Saw - amzn.to/3VKArCU
DustRight Separator - amzn.to/3WMiFk8
Favorite Dust Mask - amzn.to/3Io95iQ
Miter Saws:
DeWALT Miter Saw - amzn.to/3VMw5eG
Festool Miter Saw - amzn.to/3VLXRb1
Delta Miter Saw - homedepot.sjv.io/15jn5D
Ridgid Miter Saw (same as Delta, just orange) - homedepot.sjv.io/x97X31
Makita Miter Saw - amzn.to/3WLeoNT
Drill Press:
Budget (like mine) Wen Drill Press - amzn.to/3GjQzpg
Mid Tier Drill Press Benchtop - amzn.to/3CnGMgF
Mid Tier Drill Press Floor Standing - amzn.to/3jSFh3W
Top of the Line Drill Press - amzn.to/3CmUgcC
Other Drill Presses You May Consider - amzn.to/3QemkEK
Other Tools I Recommend:
My Favorite Table Saw Blade (for 10-inch saws) - amzn.to/3GBZfJ5
Favorite Miter Saw Blade - amzn.to/3Io3F7N
Good Router Bit Starter Set - amzn.to/3Z8wafB
Shirt I was wearing - www.shieldsofstrength.com/iron-sharpens-iron-short-sleeve-t-shirt-proverbs-27-17/
My favorite work boots (use code 731WOODWORKS to get $10 off) bruntworkwear.com/731woodworks
Camera Gear I Use - kit.co/731Woodworks/camera-gear-i-use
Computer Equipment I Use - kit.co/731Woodworks/731-woodworks-computer-equipment
Some of my Favorite Under $30 Tools
DFM Square: amzn.to/3Jfb5H2
Thin Rip Jig: amzn.to/3LKm2lB
DFM Saw Height Gauge: amzn.to/3jidia1
Small F-Clamps: lddy.no/157u9
(If you use one of these Amazon and other affiliate links, I may receive a commission)
Some other useful links:
Daily Tool Deals on my website: www.731woodworks.com/tool-deals
Subscribe the 731 Newsletter: mailchi.mp/7e44c16eefdc/731-woodworks-email-newsletter
Check out our easy-to-follow woodworking plans: www.731woodworks.com/store
Outlaw's Board Butter - So Good it Should be Outlawed: www.731woodworks.com/store/boardbutter
For absolute beginners, definitely get a cordless drill and driver. Going from one corded drill to a cordless drill and cordless driver is life changing.
Changing bits over and over is driving (heh) me nuts! A good driver is on my list of things to get.
And what’s nice about the combo is the convenience of using them for outside the workshop
@@tonyi4085 - So true.
The and driver part is so important. An impact is so much more efficient than a drill for fasteners.
@GizmosGameLounge while I do recommend an impact a basic bit driver will be life changing as well
Just bought that Skil saw myself, based off your recommendation. Haven’t unboxed it yet, gotta clean the shop first. Looks like a bomb went off down there lol. Since moving into the home a decade ago, the shop has been the storage room for all our crap. No more!! I’m cleaning it out and reclaiming it in the name of woodworkers everywhere 💪
The one tool I do not regret buying is a good hand plane. I think the 5 1/2 is the perfect combination of form and function, and as a person without a jointer and not enough room to put a jointer anywhere, my hand plane gets a lot of work done.
I second that. I have no jointer either, so I use a combination of scrub plane and 60 cm long wooden jointer plane. That thing trasnformed my work process the most since japanese saws.
The 5 (and 5 1/2) is one of the most versatile of all planes.
What plane did you get?
@C C the one I ended up getting, was the lie Nielson 5 1/2. It is expensive but for me worth it. I see it as time vs. money thing. I also have a lie Nielson no 4 as well.
There are a lot of good manufacturers, I have a stanley 5 from 1920, but it took work to get it in shape. And it was much cheaper than my lie Nielson, but when it came to it, I did not want to go through the hassle with reconditioning another plane. But new stanley planes, with the exception of the sweetheart low angle jack, are kind of trash. You can make them work, but it is a lot of work to get them in shape.
I have a woodriver 6, but it is not great for the money. I replaced the blade, which could not hold an edge, and the tote comes loose because of poor manufacturering.
Not to seem like a lie Nielson super fan, but I have a veritas router plane and small plow plane, and a scrub plane, all very good planes. I just do not like the adjusters on their bench planes.
Sorry if it is tl/dr but wanted to share some of the reasoning with you as well.
@@douglasanderson7260 My first plane was a new production stanley. Plastic handle, terrible grinding marks, very out of flat sole, chip breaker that was very crooked. Long story short, I only managed to make it work after I learned on wooden planes a better quality new production Luban plane (I think they are almost identical to woodriver, but for Euro market)that was almost ready to use from the box. So getting a lie nielsen is great idea, especially for people who are serious about woodworking, but do not have the experince to make things that are not up to par work as they should.
I have the Dewalt DWE7485 mentioned in this video. I LOVE it. When I first got it, saw blade options were limited due to 8 1/4 inch blade, but there are a ton on the market now. I have not had a project yet that this saw couldn't handle. The fence is amazing, but I would recommend making a zero clearance blade insert for this saw if you want to do more intricate cuts.
I got one and love it. What type of blade you run in yours?
@@garrybray7173 At the time I got mine, the only two blade options were the blade it came with, and Dewalt made a 60 tooth fine cut blade for it. I would swap between the two depending on what kind of cut I was making.
We have the 7485 on the jobsite as flooring contractors. My dis-illusion with the yellow and black comes from twenty five years ago...and this old grudge dies hard. However...this lil guy is a workhorse. We make a lot of "don't do this at home" ripping as we try to make hardwoods match the wobbles, curves and wows in walls. (Don't EVER think your wall is straight!) We use the very common 7 1/4" blades common to most corded and many upscale cordless circular saws...because we WANT them to warp...so we can make those swerving cuts. Makes ya wanna shudder, don't it?
That said...when the fence is on it as solid as any fence on any contractor grade saw on today's market...after spending a year and a half bouncing around in the back of a work van crammed full of tools. Had need of the fence for a seriously complicated cut in preparation for a tongue cutter in a router. Spot on...to within .001". If I had need for another table saw...I have two running, three sitting aside and another awaiting a full restoration I would certainly consider this saw, even with the limitation of depth of cut. Don't believe me? Watch Tamar @ 3x3!
The one that should have been on your list is a band saw. Could have been the six tools you'll never regret buying. Thanks for a great video Matt.
Should be the first machine you buy. Then a jointer.
2 words, impact driver. 2 more, Ryobi Quietstrike. 2 more, Milwaukee Surge.
I have 4 years with the Ryobi Quietstrike. LOVE the trigger control, pulsing control, and quiet operation!
Dislikes: size and weight. I always use this for what I LOVE about it!
I have ordered a new Milwaukee Surge which uses the similar hydraulic drive system and is much more compact and includes newer features as well.
I expect to be "wowed and amazed"!
The first big power tool I bought was a miter saw. I hate it. It’s loud. It has practically no dust extraction. I never use it. I pull out a hand saw or the table saw sled.
Mine is in the garage facing the door so I can use it with the garage door open. I still attach it to my dust extraction system which is only a cyclone and shop vac. My headphones protect my ears enough. I don’t even know what it sounds like without them!
First off, I love your shirt bro. I'm not a huge woodworker, but started getting into it more. I'm more so into meta work and automotive. I've always been of the mindset of it's better to buy a used high quality tool than a new low quality tool. A little while back I responded to an ad for a very reasonably priced Delta compound miter saw. When I got there it turned out he was a cabinet maker and moving from South Jersey to Florida to retire. What was originally going to be a $75 purchase ended up being almost $2,000 and 2 more trips to his shop. I spent a lot that day, but got a lot of high end equipment that I do not regret buying.
I Can honestly say that a Sander should be on this list. Almost everyone with a tablesaw is going to have some type of sander. I know from the wife and I, the sander was the 2nd or 3rd thing we bought when we started our business.
My compound sliding miter saw was the first major purchase I made and for years it was my go-to tool for lots of stuff I built. Once I got my table saw (DWE7491RS), that miter saw has been mostly collecting dust. When almost all your cross-cuts and miters can be made with a nice cross-cut sled, the only thing that sliding miter is used for is making cuts on long stock (aka tubifors ;), unless of course you do a lot of complex cuts on molding or something like that. I would add 2 items that you left out: (1) drill/driver/impact set. These get the most use for most stuff I do. (2) low-noise compressor. This opens up a world of inexpensive tools - brad/pin nailers, crown staplers, etc.. that are really useful.
I love your choices. I’m not to a point where I need a drill press, but good information for later. I would add drill and driver set, absolutely. My favorite purchase though, after using a cheap one, is my Festool random orbit sander. A quality sander can save a lot of arm/shoulder ache 😂!
I certainly agree with your choices! The table saw is probably the heart of any wood shop. I started with a Ridgid 3650 because of the fence and the trunion (the part the saw arbor mounts to). I’ve since upgraded to the SawStop 3HP cabinet saw. But I still have that Ridgid! Where we differ is my #2 power tool. To me, it’s the Band Saw. A good band saw can do so much! You can make your own veneers, you can make intricate joinery, and you can do some creative shapes. I actually have 2 band saws now (I’m luck to have space for them), so one is dedicated to resawing and one stays set up with a thin blade for making curvy cuts. :)
I'm hardly even what you'd call a woodworker, maybe in waiting?, but I want a bandsaw bad. I think it might be diresta's fault.....
My choice would be track saw - can be used for jointing edges of any length and all cutting. No need for bulky table saw.
Masca jig and that custom mounting board for it. Have to credit ur video. Built my kid’s slot car tables with it being a big help. -U10
I regret buying ryobi as my first table saw (cheap). It has the worse fence. Switched to dewalt and what a huge difference that was. Love it.
For me the absolute most used tool has been my impact driver. It Guess used far more than anything else I have. Also never let anybody tell you you have to buy a high-end one. I used everything from a $35 one up to multi-hundred dollar ones. If you're not doing construction or production work generally you can get away with lower budget ones and do just fine.
I would add a tabletop bandsaw too. It's kinda like a Dremel mototool: When you need it, it's the only tool that will do the job as quickly and easily.
Matt, first of all I love ALL of your content! The only addition that I would say is that a quality sander is a game changer compared to cheaper sanders that just don't perform well in terms of too much vibration and dust extraction.
Great suggestion!
I have almost everything you mentioned except for the dust collector. My miter saw is the Admiral 12" sliding miter saw. I love it! I'm just about ready to put another blade on it, I've used it so much. I've cut oak, mahogany and pine, and it did a great job on all three. My table saw is a Skilsaw model 3400. I know what you're saying about sentimental value there!
Bandsaw......so versatile but especially for resawing. I remember how frustrated I was being limited to dimensional lumber as some projects looked out of proportion. Now I can resaw into thinner pieces when called for.
Or if you replace the drill press with a high quality portable drill guide like the Rockler one as I have, then you could add a thickness planer in the 5 must have list. Then you _can_ shave the thickness down to what you want it to be. But that is such a waste because you have already paid a premium for having somebody else do the work of giving you at least two flat faces and even more for 4 flat parallel faces only to grind away a lot of that wood.
So for me, a good bandsaw that can resaw rough dimensioned lumber is #5 1/2 on my list. And if you have a good source of rough cut lumber and resaw a lot of the wood that you use, a bandsaw will likely pay for itself in short order by not having to pay the premium for pre dimensioned wood (besides likely have a lot more species of wood to choose from).
The only trouble is that band saws with enough depth to resaw wider boards (12 or so inches) and a good solid cast iron table and trunnion to dampen vibration, an accurate fence to get a good parallel cut to minimize work on the jointer or planer using a joiner jig, and enough power and fpm to make a clean relatively rapid cut on wide boards, like the $1500 14" 1.5 hp JET JWBS-14SFX, (and this is one of the cheapest full size bandsaws) are *_expensive_* not to mention large and heavy. The alternative are cheaper bandsaws that are limited to resawing narrower boards and don't have the power to cut very fast. The $500 Rikon 10-3061 appears from reviews to be a good choice. It has 1/2 hp motor and can resaw up to 5" wide boards.
two tools I have not regretted in addition to this list is an oscillating belt/spindle sander. amazing for sanding inside curves and small parts for boxes. the second is a benchtop jointer. I have since upgraded to a floor standing jointer but being able to joint the wonky box store lumber for glue ups was a game changer when I started and I use a jointer multiple times a week. was especially useful during hard times when I was only able to get free pallet lumber for building things. kept my sanity through the pandemic thats for sure.
Ive bought cloth covers for my vac and cleaning it was easy as taking the cloth outside and shaking it. HEPA filter was spotless.
Absolutely agree with this list - the only thing I would add is a good ruler/tape measure and a marker such as a Pica. Accuracy is key in my tiny wood shop - my Kapex can only cut as accurate as the measurements I give it. I finally invested in a Woodpeckers Ruler and a Narex marking knife - game changers!
Nice tool selection tips. Regarding the power issue on the Wen drill press, try switching your belt from the standard rubber v-belt to a link belt. It can help eliminate some of the run-out on your quill that might bind your motor. I know it helped me with my less expensive Grizzly. Hasn't bound up once since I changed over.
oscillating spindle sander is my best purchase. When I need it, it's invaluable. Definitely saves me so much time on a project and is my go to way to make rounded corners until I get a router table.
Totally agree!
That little Makita router is AWESOME. It's bigger brother the 2-1/4HP is too, and it's compatible with the Musclechuck quick change collet system. Once you go to that, you'll never go back to two wrenches needed to change a bit. Also have the Makita 12in sliding miter saw. It's also amazing, having used the DeWalt, a Delta, and a Ryobi.
My wife knew I wanted & needed a table saw. She got me a radial arm saw by accident. I have used it SO much!
Bosch miter saw, with its knuckle, is the best for deflection. That thing is very solid.
👏👏👏👏I have an advantage/disadvantage, my shop is the great outdoors, wind blowing sawdust is messy. I do use a dust mask. I have a 10” Delta miter saw, it’s great except it’s heavy.
I have an M18 fuel barrel grip jigsaw. The performance and the sound of the motor and the blade action puts a smile on my face. I’m a woodworker and I’m a Milwaukee person.
Thank you for what you do. I have been learning a lot from you. Also, thank you for the "The Greatest Gift Video"
Your videos are addictive! I keep going from one to the next!!!
Happy to hear that! Thanks!
very cool to see the Laguna tools dust collector in the wild. Just started working for them
I would add a morticer . Mine has lasted decades. They are accurate and quick to use. I don’t recommend site saws. Spend a bit more and get a table saw with a solid table and micro adjust fence. Buy the biggest and heaviest you can afford. It is the number one workshop machine.
Great video, Matt!
Man, could we make this a long list! In addition to the recommendations for drill/driver combos, bandsaw, planers, sanders, oscillating sanders… I’d have to say it is pretty nice having a combination belt/disc sander. These guys make short work of taking down large amounts of wood really quick!
Before I got my Sawstop, I had the DWE7491RS 10-in jobsite table saw. Portability is key in my shop. I'm too old to be picking up table saws, drill presses, bar bells :-). How about a Bandsaw blade review. Can't seem to find one I'm happy with.
For resawing the Laguna Resaw King can't be beat. It's going to hurt but they're great blades. Highland's WoodSlicer is really good too but, again, it's going to hurt.
For general use?? I buy them from Highland for $30 or so. I need a selection of widths and TPI so don't spend a lot on general purpose blades.
I have the metabo 10” job site table saw. It’s pretty good and uses the rack and pinion fence as well. And it allows dado stacks as well. Maybe mention this one in a future video.
nice! thanks
I've got that one too - so far I really like it, except for the riving knife which can't be removed, and you can't find zero-clearance plates or even a dado plate for it anywhere. You can fix the riving knife problem by chopping off a bit of metal with a dremel via the dust collection cleanout port, and it's easy enough to make a zero-clearance plate using the original as a router template, so not a deal breaker for me, and the 35" right side rip capacity has been a huge plus - the reason I bought it actually. Curious what you think of this saw.
@@jeffdesilva yeah I cut the bottom of the riving knife out so it can be removed. I just made my own zero clearance plates. I found the dado stack plate somewhere but can’t remember where. But I just again made my own. I like mine. I finally attached it to my workbench so it’s more solid. But haven’t had many issues at all.
About 20 years ago, I wanted to build my own house, so I decided to go big on tools. I got Delta X5 tools (table saw, band saw, etc). I also bought various DeWalt tools, routers, drills and more. At the time, I spent about $5000. I don't regret spending any of it, since I probably got $20,000 worth of use out of them. I still use most of them today. Other tools I like that I bought a few years ago was a DeWalt 13" planer and recently the DeWalt 12" sliding miter saw. No regrets here, but I use them a lot. Quality costs a little more, but I found that cheap turns out to be expensive.
As an electrician by trade, now retired. I have a real problem with DeWalt corded tools. While they may be good tools overall, their one drawback is the size of the power cord, especially for their JSS, Routers and Mitre Saws. I have purged my collection of extension cord, and when any of the cords on my power tools have become less than appealing, I have replace them with a length of AWG 14. Nearly every DeWalt tool I have looked at has an AWG 18 cord. For those who don't know, the larger the number, the smaller the wire, until you get to 1/0 and then the larger the number the larger the wire. Even in short runs, the smaller wires have a significant voltage drop which makes the tool work harder to produce the same results as a larger wire. If a tool doesn't have an AWG 14 cord on it, I pass right by it, because I know that I'm going to have to replace it, if not the tool itself in a few months or within a year at best. Heat is the enemy and the smaller cord heat up something terrible when under the kind of load a tool will put on them,
5:08 caption for that image: "why am I doing this to myself?..." / alt: "wood goes brrrrrrrrr"
Definitely missed a good sander. All my tools are festool cause I love the comfort and system, could 100% use cheaper variants of most of what I have and get dewalt or makita for example, but the one thing I couldn't ever give up is a festool or mirka sander. Sanders are used for everything you make and the better sander you have the less damage you'll do to your hands that can result in nerve damage or an RSI in the long run. That's on top of the time you save and quality increase in your finishing and the eradication of hazardous dust from timber, paint and finishes. Every single person I've seen who says they 'hate' sanding picks up a festool sander hooked up to a vac and their face lights up. Absolutely a must have, even for a hobbyist restoring old furniture, especially if you rely on hand sanding or a hand me down sheet sander
Great information Mighty Matt! I will say that’s first time I’ve heard Dewalt and budget friendly in the same sentence. But I’m a ryobi guy so my experience with Dewalt is zero. Thank you for content.
lol no doubt! Thanks Lloyd!
Not sure if anyone has mentioned it, but possibly one of the best tools I’ve ever gotten is a good set of machinist blocks or 1-2-3 blocks. Mine are spot on within .001 inch on each measurement and perfect right angles. I’ve measured, adjusted, aligned, everything with them. And only about $20-30.
probably the biggest (and one of the most expensive!) I've made was a quality floor mounted drill press... A few times I've had something big I've needed to drill into... being able to simply swing the bed out of the way, and then just go for it... (It helps it's next to my massive vise... It's positioning isn't an accident..) Few times I've mounted something large in the vise, and been able to drill it with the press. (Stick a block or something under the thing supporting it... There's bits of scrap jarrah I've kept around for that very purpose.)
45 years woodworking, and I still don't have a miter saw, nor have any use for one (if I were framing buildings it'd be the FIRST tool to get, however).
100%. Mine is used very seldom in the shop. I do use it for installs, but if I were starting out, knowing what I know now, it would be WAY down the list.
1. Table saw
2.Thickness planer/Jointer
3.Sander
4.Drill
5.Circular saw
Miter saw is my least used tool in the wood shop. Construction projects it's a must have. A planner is more important to me than a miter.
That comment makes me sound like a putz. Everyone is different. I enjoyed your video and watch a lot of your content. Keep it up.
Power tools are great but no shop is complete without the finesse tools. Hand plane, chisels, and sharpen stones/diamond plates/oil stones and a strop.
I got that Delta about 7 years ago to upgrade a Ryobi and have never regretted it. Great saw and once you square the fence it stays like that for a long time. Also got a full kerf 24T flat top blade and it doesn't have any problem going through 3-1/4" hardwood.
SAVE MONEY WITHOUT SACRIFICING QUALITY!!
Sawstop has taken over. It is the saw everyone dreams of upgrading to and if you have the money it's absolutely worth it. However... all those upgrades makes finding a Delta Unisaw, Powermatic 66 or a General 350 on the secondary market very easy. These saws were all made in the USA and can be restored very easily. Even the Grizzly and Jet cabinet saws are a option. Look for one without the best fence can be a hidden gem. Building a set of Biesemeyer style rails can be done with a 2"x3" tube and a 3"x3" piece of angle iron. Then a fence from "Very Super Cool Tools"(yes that is the name of the fence) and you have a saw that your grandchildren will be happy to inherit someday. You can do this usually for less than 1/2 and maybe as little as 1/3 the price of a Sawstop cabinet saw.
Tools from as early as 1920s and all the way through 2015ish can be easily restored, refurbished and maintained. All they ever need is a set of bearings and a little work on the motor. With the easy availability of VFDs you can save even more. Buying three phase equipment and converting it to single phase with a VFD can save even more. Just thought I'd mention this.
Glad you didn't have that sawstop job site saw up there lol. Dewalt is way better minus the one safety feature their hanging everything on
I have gotten tools of all types and brands but by far the one tool that has been the most valuable addition to my collection has been my Ryobi air strike 18 gauge nailer I have had other brands like Milwaukee but the Ryobi has been the best and most reliable.
I bought a Wen tracksaw and the 100 inch two piece track (and two clamps). At first, I bought it because it looked cool, but now I use it on almost every project where I am cutting plywood or sheets of MDF. I am so glad I got this!
Great video! Agree about the table saw fence. My first (and current) table saw is a 15 year old Ryobi 10 inch, and it is not great. Looking to upgrade soon. Thanks!
I was finally able to upgrade to a sawstop this last year. The fence is awesome.
Whew😅 I am a serious beginner wood worker and my wife for Christmas this year surprised me with the same Dewalt table saw you have in your video🤘🏻 I enjoy your channel and I subbed you up as well. God bless.
That is awesome! Thanks!
I am late to this video, but I just picked up the m18 router, and already its worth every penny. I used it to route 1/4 x 1/2 inch dados in the lengths of 2x4s for fencing wire. Probably 80 feet of dado. After a few passes with my circular saw and a hand chisel, the price tag became worth it hahaha. I am pleased to see it make your list. I have big plans for my little palm router
A sturdy work table is an absolute must.
I agree that a drill press is a great addition to a shop. However, a good portable drill guide like the Rockler portable drill guide (their own $200 model, not the $60 Wolfcraft that Rockler resells) can do a lot of what a drill press can, and a lot of things that a drill press can't like drilling very accurate holes in an already assembled piece. As such I think a high quality drill guide is something that all workshops even if you already have a drill press. So when starting out, I would recommend getting portable drill guide first and then when space and money allow, get a drill press. This isn't about saving money since the Wen 10" benchtop drill press is also $200 (on Amazon), but about a tool that can give accuracy approaching that of a drill press while also giving you the necessary ability to drill accurate holes just about anywhere.
So on the list of the top #5 large power tools, I would replace the drill press with a planer.
For miter saws, I have a 12 in Hercules I got at harbor freight and it's been a pretty good miter saw. I prefer the dewalt ot festool but this was a decent and readily available. My work bench, dining table, coffee and garage shelves all made with it and still making more projects.
I Like mine too except for blade changes. The guard is a terrible design to get to the arbor to change the blade.
@R H I just swapped to a diablo blade and that change was terrible. I feel like they could have made a better design, but other than that it's been a great saw. I'm actually surprised with its quality
Square first thing I bought. helps with making sure your table saw blade and everything is square.
731 is still the most awesome woodworking channel on YT. GBU Matt.
Thank you Les! 👊
I have that dewalt table saw and i did not have any problem since I bought it
( All Cordless) Circular Saw, Saws All, Framing and Finish Nailer, Angle Grinder, PVC Cutter
I’ve had several Woodworkers tell me about getting air filtration/dust collection in my shop. I don’t have any windows, and I only use a Shotvac to clean up. That is definitely something I need to invest in.
I’m going to look into the dust separator that you showed
A shop vac is the wrong tool. You want (NEED!) to catch the dust at its source. It's less work and your lungs will thank you, If you get into exotics, many are allergenic or even toxic. Belt and suspenders are needed here.
Yeah, I agree you should look into getting dust collection vs a dust separator. Even something like this would help a lot while you're still using the dust vacuum to filter the air. www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2TH28PN2SBT76&keywords=shop%2Bair%2Bcleaner&qid=1672961701&sprefix=shop%2Bair%2Bcleane%2Caps%2C191&sr=8-3&th=1
@@731Woodworks appreciate it, Looking into it tonight. Thanks 🤙🏼🤙🏼
Thanks for the video. A good impact driver is essential in any shop I think. It's not specifically a woodworking tool, but boy does it make life better for driving screws etc.
What about drill press jigs to hold a corded/cordless drill? For those that already have or can buy cheap. A corded drill will be quite good at being a drill press for small projects imho
I haven't used a Miter saw in 4 years since i have my workshop. I like to get one at some point but I see it more as a luxury tool, I can break down wood on a table saw as well. Just to be really annoying, I found a vice and a workvench the most valuable tool of all the tools I have. I started in a small shed and till I build my workbench and installed a vice I was really struggling...
First big power tool I bought was a miter saw, probably 20 years ago and I still have the same one. I use it about twice/year, mostly for breaking down 4x4 construction lumber for random house projects. I just don't cut long boards so often that I can't just rough cut with a hand saw (or circular/track saw) and clean it up with a crosscut sled on the table saw. I'd replace that miter saw "must have" with a good drill and impact driver set. I have 20v and 12v yellow ones and have to say most of the time I reach for the lightweight (and cheaper) 12v ones, since they have plenty of power for basic woodworking tasks. Next to that would be a good random orbit sander (Festool/Mirka/3m are a game changers and worth every penny, but I still often pick up the battery powered brushless one for small tasks).
for the people with literally 0 power tools. cordless power sander and drill. youll go insane without them
Miss seeing ya build things the whole review videos all the time have made me look else were ill be back when ya start building again.
I bought a kobalt jobsite table saw, and I've regretted not checking out how the fence works first. I don't regret my kreg track saw though, goes a long way towards helping until I get a better table saw
I had a kobalt sliding miter saw too. Terrible play at full extension. I wound up buying a used Sears-Craftsman radial arm saw to use until I could afford a better one (which ultimately was the DW780)
The tools you won’t regret buying really depends on where you are with your woodworking skills, and budget. Assuming you have the budget, these are my five:
Table saw
Miter saw
Planner
Spindle/belt sander (Ridgid)
Router (with plunge base)
The above is assuming you have a drill/driver, shop vac, clamps, circular saw, jigsaw, sander and other necessary tools which are required to even start woodworking.
I saw a few comments where guys mentioned a miter saw is a waste of money as they rarely use there’s. You can use a circular saw, or perhaps even a track saw in some instances, but I would argue that it’s more challenging to make beveled cuts, to make multiple cuts of identical lengths, to cut multiple boards at the same time and, you won’t get the accuracy of a miter saw. I use my miter saw on almost every project, but I rarely ever use my track saw, and yet a lot of guys use them all the time.
I actually like to use my radial arm saw over a miter saw. They just cut cleaner and more accurately when used correctly, however they're extremely dangerous and notoriously hard to keep aligned if used improperly, especially for new woodworkers. They also take up more room.
@@affliction1979 I occasionally watch a guy “The Dusty Lumber Co.” who uses both, a miter saw and radial arm saw, so there must be certain cuts where he prefers the radial arm saw. They just look like they can be pretty dangerous.
A table saw slide compound saw a dhandle router plunge
4x24 belt sander
5 inch sander
Finish nailer pinner
Stapler
Micro pinner
Great router table
For cabinet doors
And trim
Ok, I gotta ask. What kind of toolbox/hutch setup with the lockers u have in the background??
It's this one ruclips.net/video/hsS-iT2a5tg/видео.html
You are so right about that
I started up the wrong way buying cheap quality tools, they fall apart, so I save money to invest is good quality tools now I have no regrets
Yes there might be cheap tools out there that works great but I will not bank on it
Wen is such an underrated brand. I have several and all of them are superb.
I do not regret my jointer. Big game changer. I was horrible with jigs to straighten edges or plane flat…
Circular saw! I know it's considered a crude tool, but it really should be your first purchase.
I love my orbit sander. easily the best purchase ever.
Random orbit sander, Belt Sander, Thickness Planer. Benchtop Sander. Yes belt sander. Sometimes you need to take material down quickly. such as when you make cutting boards or butcher block tops, but not enough to plane.
Good picks!
Good informatve video; l bought a 10" delta cruzer - which l like, lt replaced a 12" Dewalt - a great saw for framers but just too big for my little shop.
Some nail guns are nice for when you need them if you want to take a break from using screws. I depends what your doing of course. Bought a Milwaukee M18 Gen 2 Brad Nailer recently for DIY. So far I like it. Can't wait to pick up their pin nailer.
I think you are so right with these tools you mentioned. I would only add an impact driver and you're golden ;)
Nice to see both tablesaws I considered
I got that Makita trim router recently and for corded I think I'll be going with the Skil Plunge.
Another great vid, and another great shirt! I've got each of those 5 categories, but all except the bench drill need to be upgraded. Looking hard at the SawStop you've got there, the new one.
Sander should definitely be one. Granted those you can go pretty cheap and still get good performance out of them. So they are super budget friendly and are absolutely crucial to saving time sanding.
I bought the Wen drill press several years ago. The laser worked for a week and stopped. I called customer support and they sent me a new laser. After watching, I bet many have issues with the laser.
I regret buying a router table and a low end 10" Mikita mitter saw without rails.
I don't regret buying a Mikita rail saw. In my shop there's no space for a table saw. The rail saw still allows me to make accurate plywood cuts.
for a drill press even if you just want a small cheap one for a project don't get one that you can't crank adjust the table height, I got the cheapest wen one and it works fine but it's such a pain that the x/y of the table moves every time I change the height. I don't even really bother with a fence as a result which makes it a lot slower for certain operations, and the low end models with the crank aren't that much bigger or more expensive
I agree that the Delta is the best saw on the market under $1000. That’s what I have and no issues.
I recently bought a radial arm saw, it cuts better than a sliding miter saw, it's more accurate, cuts wider boards and can do a few things a miter saw can't like rip and use a dado set. My only regret is that I didn't buy one sooner.
G.V. I would say a good measuring tape,squares,levels, etc.
Couldn't agree more with your five choices. I'd absolutely add a circular saw and/or a plunge saw to the list of must have tools that you would not regret buying. That said, I'd definitely recommend a table saw a track saw, as it is a much more versatile tool for the home woodworker. However, like the paperback/Kindle debate, it doesn't have to be a binary choice.
The great news, nowadays - especially with the general popularity of cordless tools - is that corded tools, both new and used, are much more affordable than when I started in woodworking. I've seen loads of great second hand options for the Makita corded plunge saw that I have used for years, simply because the cordless versions are so capable.
I regret getting my miter. It delayed getting other tools when I could have just used a sled and circular saw
Although lots of individuals don't like CNC's I don't regret buying mine. It's another tool to help with your woodworking project.
multitool, random orbital sander, track saw, jig saw, drill driver never go wrong with these tools.
My Stanley block plane, what my grandson calls my pocket plane (also the only one he’s allowed to use just yet). It lives in its own pocket on my belt, and gets used for everything from breaking edges, to sharpening pencils.
Clamps, clamps and more clamps, so many styles and sizes, can’t get enough..😎
My 5 are my planer ‘735, my table saw (dewalt, 10” about 12 year old job site saw), jig saw, 8 foot level (trust me on this, and not what you think) and my Bosch router. The router is a big model, the 1617EVSPK . I do want a smaller one for trim however, because this particular router is heavy.