Gardener Scott and I did a live stream on this very subject late last year. Excellent video Brian. Successional plantings technically rotates without rotating
I have 10 100 square foot veg beds. I worked on a 10 family veg system. I strictly rotated every 3 years. It became too much trying to adjust for light, water, pH, and nutrient requirements. I now add tons of composted wood chips each fall to each bed and try to make the bed as best as it can be for that particular crop. No more rotation.
I do move some of my veggies around. I don't have a formal way I just put heavy feeders after legumes, move tomatoes to a different section. This way you might get surprised that a vegetable does way better some place else. Good video, now address the 7th year rest controversy.
Good one! I get early morning and late afternoon fog, so I've been planting tomatoes in the same spot because it's the best place to get the most sun and the least wind. This year I'm noticing that even though I'm getting plenty of delicious tomatoes, some of the leaves are looking less healthy than in the past. Other parts of the garden get rotated somewhat every year. I've been using the grow bags for potatoes this year, and so far things are looking good. I use the square-foot gardening approach on most of the rest of my garden, and I can see how I could rotate my beds and do square-foot simultaneously.
I have been following your channel for 2 years with very good garden responses. I also follow no-dig gardening as taught by Charles Dowding. Mr. Dowding has planted potatoes in the same no-dig plot for 8 years with no drop in quality or quantity. And no blight! You and Charles seem to be speaking the same language. The proof is in your gardens, keep doing what works! Good luck on your new home and garden.
You'll want to put onions in with your leaves. They are heavy nitrogen feeders. Every ring on an onion corresponds to a leaf above ground. The more leaves, the more rings. The bigger the leaves, the bigger the rings.
Sometimes…just like you I don’t rotate tomatoes because I use cattle panels. I also just amend the soil. I don’t reuse beds that have had root vegetables with other root veggies….I rotate those. I am definitely going to follow your plan!
In SPIN gardens with high succession planting and low amounts of digging I don't think rotating is a massive deal anymore. Of course though, it'll never HURT to rotate them. :-)
Thanks for the mnemonic approach. It makes perfect sense. I look forward to your advice and experience about companion planting as you begin practicing rotation.
Thanks for addressing this! I've been following various discussions on the point that garden beds that are refilled each year, may not really need rotation? I'm starting to not rotate as much and it's comforting to get confirmation on the idea from experienced folks! Thanks!
When I did a vegetable garden, I did mine like the local farmers. Plant three yrs and on the fourth year I planted bush beans. We did not harvest them but turned them completely under after the first big frost. I always followed the farmers because we all tilled the same soil type and because that was there business, they really knew what they were doing lol
Makes perfect sense and takes a lot less effort tracking. If you have limited space it makes it tough. This year I only grew tomatoes and basil and some kale, lettuce, peas and cilantro in pots. It will be fun to follow the changes that take place in how you garden at the new homestead ❤️
I use a digital garden plan app that supports crop rotation. I don’t plant equal amounts of those 4 groups, so there will always be some overlap. Not only can I plan when the snow is a meter deep, but I know where to place extra compost on top or add extra fertilizer
Thank you!!!! I've been gardening and educating myself for years now, and this has NEVER been explained so well! I've never rotated mu crops, but now that I understand it better I'm going to give it a try in several areas. Thanks again and happy gardening.
I grew my tomatoes in the same spot for 12 years in San Diego, and I paid a heavy price. I ended up with root knot nematodes and could not grow anything successfully. I never thought that crop rotation was a big deal before that, but now I am a believer. It's very discouraging to pull up a plant that is not doing well, and see the roots covered in nodules caused by nematodes.
Man I just wanna send you a big hug from Puerto Rico I recently started to follow your challenge and I can see the passion you have. It's contagious, I just started gardening and you have helped me a lot... Thank you so much for everything that you do.
I’ve watched this several times and now I have finally written it down. Going to use a map of my garden and try to figure out which way to go. Only problem is there are other factors to consider too (shade, space and type of garden bed). Thank you for this video though it really helps.
Your explanations make so much sense and make gardening know how easier for me to remember. You help teach the “why” instead of just a list of rules to follow. That’s how I learn beat. Thank you! Also - to anyone who reads this - I only have room and scraps enough to make a little bit of compost myself. I need more than I create. So - what are your recommendations. My total garden area is about 150 square feet so I don’t need trucks full. Anyone know where I should turn? If it matters, I’m in San Diego county zone 10a.
This is only my 3rd year gardening and I have been rotating my crops in raised beds. This spring I made a movable cattle panel hoop tunnel to trellis my tomatoes and so they can be covered easily for protection from extreme heat or hail. The side I moved my tomatoes and peppers to has more sun exposure, so I am now using the other section for greens, cabbages, and eggplant. (There are 3 beds on each side.)
In your tomato bed you can plant peas and greens in the winter (overlapping legume and leaves), throw in some carrots and beets for early spring and those can finish up while tomatoes go in. One year to rotate through all.
No, why should I? I do no dig like Charles Dowding and my soil is getting healthier each year. If the soil food web is working, there is no need for crop rotation...
I've been growing my tomatoes in the same area every year. Someone on the Facebook page said that practice is no bueno. I do not rotate because I have one 1 place that gets the best sun.
Re: The use of compost. I don't have a big garden so have to buy bags of compost, and here in England the use of peat in compost has been banned. I recently planted lettuce in the bags and lost the lot presumably because the peat is missing, I have since replanted and now water with a mix of liquid seaweed and the lettuce seem to be growing again. I am new to gardening and it's a case of trial and error, but I find your tips very useful so keep them coming. Best wishes
Could be Aminopyralid poisoning. It’s a pretty serious issue in the UK that is starting to spread globally. Try the exact same experiment but using beans. If the beans don’t grow, the compost is either not aged appropriately or it Aminopyralid. Also, contact the compost vendor so they know as they might not realize they’re using poisoned manures/straw or whatever it is.
I plant everything together, crop rotation isn't really a thing. The only real problem I have is cucumber beetles, and I planted the cucumbers in a different place and still have them, I just planted more disease resistant types this year, so it's all good.
I think crop rotation only benefits farmers who plant massive amounts. Unless your dealing with a specific pest in your soil that only targets certain plants. I know farmers who plant corn one year will typically plant soybeans the next. Corn is a heavy feeder and I guess planting soybeans will add nitrogen back into the soil. Anyway that’s what I’ve always heard💚🙃
I tend to move things around based on how they looked in that location the prior year or how much light did they block from other plants etc so I don't really worry about rotation. Most of my crops are in pota though I'm only up to 5 garden beds
I've never rotated my plants in 40 years so far I haven't had a problem. I think your soil and the health of your plants has a lot to do with rather you need to rotate. Rotating won't hurt but I don't think necessary.
Excellent explanation and plan, will implement as I grow each season! At the moment I just plant wherever the bed is empty or their is space, thank you so much!
Tried crop rotation in my 80x40 in ground bed similar to what you described… got most crops destroyed this year by vine borer and cabbage moth… plan on solarizing my ground the rest of the summer to hopefully get rid of those grubs that have went into the ground causing my problem from the previous year
After you solarize your soil over the winter, in the spring remove tho solarization and drench the soil with beneficial nematodes before you plant. They really do help!
Cabbage moths are annoying but not soil born (they curl up a leaf and chilled there for a time). So you’re really just trying to get rid of borer larvae.
I have only been growing vegetables for 3 years. In raised beds. Last year I planted everything in the same place. This year I built all new beds so things were all in new beds. Even though I did have an issue with some bugs so next year I am rotating.
How would this work in a climate where we don't get frosts that kill off crops every year? I live in the tropics and certain types of plants could basically live for years unless you kill it or it dies off from some disease
I think this was traditionally done for nitrogen in the soil. Certain nitrogen hungry crops could not be grown in the same plot after a couple years cuz they would deplete nitrogen like corn and tobacco. They would rotate and include a season of fallow field to replenish nitrogen. Its not really relevant in a world full of amendments and suburban gardens, although it might be worth it for pest reasons which I think still needs to be justified.
@@TooLittleInfo I was just trying to point out that its kind of a dated idea and maybe not relevant cuz we have modern fertilizers and compost . Unfortunately thats all I can tell you cuz I live way up north.
@@TooLittleInfo I have the same question. I have some pepper plants that are over a year old and about 4 feet tall. I suspect the soil must be depleted. I think what I am going to do is prune them to increase airflow and lift the foliage from the ground, add some compost and slow release granular fertilizer on top, add a thick layer of mulch on top and then a water soluble fertilizer. The plants are just so beautiful I have been postponing this for so long but I think if I continue harvesting peppers, it may contribute to their demise. Sorry I didn’t answer your question but hopefully the suggestion works for both of us.
What kind of Mulch do you use where your tomatoes is grown?By the way I'm on the East Coast and enjoy your channel.Thank you for what you do for the garden community.
There's plenty of videos out there. I made the mistake of starting with too small of a pile. Now I have great compost with bins made from pallets. I made it with 4 bins so I can have 3 working and one empty for mixing. I'll post a pic on the facebook site tomorrow.
Ive grown the same crops year after year on the same bed. But where I live I only get to plant spring and summer so the fall to mid spring nothing is planted and my beds rest 75% of the year. So I think that helps me not to worry about nematodes. Wishful thinking maybe.
I have containers and beds and I grow different plants and plant them wherever they need to go. I don't have set places for them. It's a brand new experience every year. But, every year I have more containers, bags. tub, water troughs, old rain barrels cut in half, pails( thanks to Home Depot), pretty soon I need to move too , I need more space, I only have a back yard, plus I have a few fruit trees too. So my yard is getting pretty crowded, my husband and I compete for space and he's a mechanic, I already had to give up a strip in the back to make room for a covered parking space for his truck. 👩🏽🌾🖖🏽🧡😎
I don't consciously rotate my crops. Like you, I lay down compost and I water at the roots/soil level. I follow the same philosophy as Charles Dowding and do lots of companion planting.
I did not rotate my peppers and now I have a bacterial disease in that bed and cannot grow peppers, tomatoes, or anything related in that bed. However, I’m in Florida and I get these diseases probably from all the rain.
Thank you so so much for simplifying this rotation plan for vegetable gardening. I’ve been trying to understand this & now I get it. Also so excited to see how your new property gardens will be for the future!🌺
I square foot garden so I sort of rotate but not really. I have 1 long trellis so that's where the peas go in the winter/spring and tomatoes/cukes in summer/fall. Since I'm in SoCal 10a, my peppers stay in the same squares all year, every year. I do try to change up which squares I put my bush beans, leafy greens and root veggies in (I have no luck with brassicas). What I still don't get and can't do is add 3" of compost every year, let alone every season. My "raised" beds are only about 5" tall trying to amend heavy clay soil; I would love taller beds but it's not going to happen here. My soil level drops very little, if at all, so I'm lucky to have space to add a shovel full of compost and a shovel full of peat moss each season.
I do rotate my crops to some degree because I grow everything in containers so I can "rotate" at will. That's going to change since I learned that my pepper plants are perennials.
My pepper plants are in the same container they were in last year. The only thing I did was prune them and add compost a wee bit of 5-5-5 in late winter. They’re fine.
Hairy vetch! 🤣🤣🤣 Good one! We need to talk about the whole gardening change you're facing and trellis system differences and such. 🤣 Plus weed barrier versus mulch. 😉 You'll have so many more options available to you having a larger space and having in ground versus raised beds. So exciting!
You rock and you made this so simple to do. I will struggle a bit here as my raised beds are only three!! No room for four. I’ll figure it out. Thanks Brian.
Good stuff here. I'm fortunate to have chickens so I let them poke around in my garden beds all winter - fertilizing and de-bugging :). I've heard from many sources that one important factor is to ONLY buy organic seed potatoes which should be advertised as fungus free. Don't just plant cheap seed from anywhere. I wonder if you get your information from Dr. Elaine Ingham, renowned soil expert? Her videos and interviews are a little dense for someone like me (science dummy) so I appreciate you filtering it for us :)
Is it possible to get the list of the vegetables categories so next year I can plant my veggies with the proper veggies groupe for futur moving my crop? Thank You!
Do you let your chickens get into your raised beds to help clean out bugs? I just got a chicken today and tomorrow I will go and get 2 more. I will have the bird roaming the garden area I am cleaning out and i saw tons of cucumber or tomato beetles or something that has small yellow and brown stripes. So chickens have earn their keep while I am prepping and growing seedlings. Some stuff is coming up by itself. Cilantro, lettuce, and the green onions are still growing. Most of my stuff stayed under water in the flood we had twice in about a month and a half plus our freeze this year in Texas.
North County San Diego growing zone 10b checking in 🌱 Definitely need to start a gardening journal to remember the order of rotation!! Thanks @Brian 👩🌾🙏🌻
I live in a much wetter climate in the mid-Atlantic, where >95% of the water the garden needs comes from rain, and a consistent amount nearly every month. I notice certain tomato varieties are prone to getting wilt by midsummer (while the majority are OK, as are my peppers). Do wilt-resistant tomatoes and peppers foster the growth of the wilt fungi they are immune to, or can they count towards rotation if you are taking care of nutrition issues? It also seems likely some of the wilt is caused by native pathogens that are widespread here. I'd be OK with growing those few highly susceptible heirlooms in special locations with new soil. I'm not a fan of heavy chemical intervention in the soil chemistry. Are there better options?
I do, but I don't. LOL.. My main issue is pests.. Flying pests, so it doesn't really matter where I put stuff. They find it wherever it is...I just put stuff wherever it fits.
Crop rotation is hard when your garden consist of about 80% tomatoes and peppers. I just add compost at the end of the year then test it in the spring and add whatever minerals and nutrients I need.
@@kcamplisson1 I use the leaf luster soil tester. I don’t know if one kit is better then the other. I pretty much research everything then just pick the one that I think will work for what I want.
I don't really keep track like that. Honestly, I try to keep something growing all the time, even in winter - sort of - so it is not a thing. Spring crops get followed by nightshade and curcubit types and then we I am getting tired of those the fall plants are going in. I interplant beans and peas all over the place where I can fit them. Just so you know, I live in zone 6 NE Pennsylvania, so yes, there are significant climate differences from where you are.
Help. I love corn on the cob. It sucks a lot of nitrogen out of the soil, right? If so, should it be categorized in the leaf family as far as rotation goes?
Question- I know you were saying rotate each year, but would this work as well for each season? For example- I can see growing fruits mostly spring/summer where I live, then roots fall/winter.
I do a lot of succession planting. When one crop quits producing it goes to the compost and the next set of seeds is planted. So in any given spot oh, I may have two or three different types of crops in any one season ie. Where I plant my spring peas, my summer squash get planted and when they are done I might be planting some fall greens this makes it really difficult to figure out what to rotate in and out. Create a lot of my own compost and each bed is dressed with it in the spring and again in fall any thoughts on the efficacy of not rotating my crops in such a situation?
Oh goodness what to do! I think I will stick to adding 3 inches of compost to my vegetable beds I just do it once a year in November, with our climate it seems to work well! But good to know all this information! ☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️👍🏼
I live in NW Florida where it rains almost every day inthe summer and the humidity is extremely high... We also battle fire ants i definitely rotate crops
Does rotation gardening rules also follow companion planting rules? So when planting friends next to each other wouldn't they take all the needed nutrients that each plant needs?
Great Video. Timely too since I was just googling this subject two days ago. Question - I read or watched somewhere (maybe this channel) that beets actually like a lot of nitrogen, even though they are roots and you might think they would want more potassium. So shouldn't beets be with the leaf group?
If I am growing multiple different plants close to each other is there still a benefit from crop rotation? I try to have at least 8 different plants per 4x8 bed and that seems to take care of any issues that crop rotation could solve.
What if you have a spring summer garden and fall winter garden in the same garden. Can i count that as rotation? So I would get two rotations a calender year???
If you are unable to make your own compost which commercially available product would you recommend and where to you buy straw mulch in small quantities,
All this time I've been rotating my crocs instead of my crops...Now it all makes sense.
Thanks for making my day!😂
I don't have enough sunshine or space to rotate my crops. Thanks for making me feel better about it.
I have the same exact issue.
Gardener Scott and I did a live stream on this very subject late last year. Excellent video Brian. Successional plantings technically rotates without rotating
I have 10 100 square foot veg beds. I worked on a 10 family veg system. I strictly rotated every 3 years. It became too much trying to adjust for light, water, pH, and nutrient requirements. I now add tons of composted wood chips each fall to each bed and try to make the bed as best as it can be for that particular crop. No more rotation.
I do move some of my veggies around. I don't have a formal way I just put heavy feeders after legumes, move tomatoes to a different section. This way you might get surprised that a vegetable does way better some place else. Good video, now address the 7th year rest controversy.
Good one! I get early morning and late afternoon fog, so I've been planting tomatoes in the same spot because it's the best place to get the most sun and the least wind. This year I'm noticing that even though I'm getting plenty of delicious tomatoes, some of the leaves are looking less healthy than in the past. Other parts of the garden get rotated somewhat every year. I've been using the grow bags for potatoes this year, and so far things are looking good. I use the square-foot gardening approach on most of the rest of my garden, and I can see how I could rotate my beds and do square-foot simultaneously.
I have been following your channel for 2 years with very good garden responses. I also follow no-dig gardening as taught by Charles Dowding. Mr. Dowding has planted potatoes in the same no-dig plot for 8 years with no drop in quality or quantity. And no blight! You and Charles seem to be speaking the same language. The proof is in your gardens, keep doing what works! Good luck on your new home and garden.
You'll want to put onions in with your leaves. They are heavy nitrogen feeders. Every ring on an onion corresponds to a leaf above ground. The more leaves, the more rings. The bigger the leaves, the bigger the rings.
We don’t get rain in Southern California…..except for this morning July 26. We got 0.1” monsoon rainfall which was actually a pretty nice surprise.
Sometimes…just like you I don’t rotate tomatoes because I use cattle panels. I also just amend the soil. I don’t reuse beds that have had root vegetables with other root veggies….I rotate those. I am definitely going to follow your plan!
In SPIN gardens with high succession planting and low amounts of digging I don't think rotating is a massive deal anymore. Of course though, it'll never HURT to rotate them. :-)
Thanks for the mnemonic approach. It makes perfect sense. I look forward to your advice and experience about companion planting as you begin practicing rotation.
Thanks for addressing this! I've been following various discussions on the point that garden beds that are refilled each year, may not really need rotation? I'm starting to not rotate as much and it's comforting to get confirmation on the idea from experienced folks! Thanks!
I don’t rotate my garden since my plants and crops are all in pots 🙂
When I did a vegetable garden, I did mine like the local farmers. Plant three yrs and on the fourth year I planted bush beans. We did not harvest them but turned them completely under after the first big frost. I always followed the farmers because we all tilled the same soil type and because that was there business, they really knew what they were doing lol
Makes perfect sense and takes a lot less effort tracking. If you have limited space it makes it tough. This year I only grew tomatoes and basil and some kale, lettuce, peas and cilantro in pots. It will be fun to follow the changes that take place in how you garden at the new homestead ❤️
I use a digital garden plan app that supports crop rotation. I don’t plant equal amounts of those 4 groups, so there will always be some overlap. Not only can I plan when the snow is a meter deep, but I know where to place extra compost on top or add extra fertilizer
Thank you!!!!
I've been gardening and educating myself for years now, and this has NEVER been explained so well! I've never rotated mu crops, but now that I understand it better I'm going to give it a try in several areas.
Thanks again and happy gardening.
I grew my tomatoes in the same spot for 12 years in San Diego, and I paid a heavy price. I ended up with root knot nematodes and could not grow anything successfully. I never thought that crop rotation was a big deal before that, but now I am a believer. It's very discouraging to pull up a plant that is not doing well, and see the roots covered in nodules caused by nematodes.
I always change up what I plant in areas..and add NEW compost before winter..
Man I just wanna send you a big hug from Puerto Rico I recently started to follow your challenge and I can see the passion you have. It's contagious, I just started gardening and you have helped me a lot... Thank you so much for everything that you do.
Aww. Thanks!
I simply build identical trellises in each bed :) So, I can put in them whatever I want :) Thanks for the great easy to remember rotation system! ♥
I’ve watched this several times and now I have finally written it down. Going to use a map of my garden and try to figure out which way to go. Only problem is there are other factors to consider too (shade, space and type of garden bed). Thank you for this video though it really helps.
Your explanations make so much sense and make gardening know how easier for me to remember. You help teach the “why” instead of just a list of rules to follow. That’s how I learn beat. Thank you!
Also - to anyone who reads this - I only have room and scraps enough to make a little bit of compost myself. I need more than I create. So - what are your recommendations. My total garden area is about 150 square feet so I don’t need trucks full. Anyone know where I should turn? If it matters, I’m in San Diego county zone 10a.
This is only my 3rd year gardening and I have been rotating my crops in raised beds. This spring I made a movable cattle panel hoop tunnel to trellis my tomatoes and so they can be covered easily for protection from extreme heat or hail. The side I moved my tomatoes and peppers to has more sun exposure, so I am now using the other section for greens, cabbages, and eggplant. (There are 3 beds on each side.)
In your tomato bed you can plant peas and greens in the winter (overlapping legume and leaves), throw in some carrots and beets for early spring and those can finish up while tomatoes go in. One year to rotate through all.
In your new space you can make a lot of your own compost! We love vermicomposting and it makes a lot of compost in a small space
No, why should I? I do no dig like Charles Dowding and my soil is getting healthier each year. If the soil food web is working, there is no need for crop rotation...
Vine borers?
@@melissasullivan1658, not in healthy and balanced soil.
I've been growing my tomatoes in the same area every year. Someone on the Facebook page said that practice is no bueno. I do not rotate because I have one 1 place that gets the best sun.
The only times I move tomatoes is if they’ve become diseased early two seasons in a row. Otherwise they’re fine. 🤷🏼♀️
Re: The use of compost. I don't have a big garden so have to buy bags of compost, and here in England the use of peat in compost has been banned.
I recently planted lettuce in the bags and lost the lot presumably because the peat is missing, I have since replanted and now water with a mix of liquid seaweed and the lettuce seem to be growing again.
I am new to gardening and it's a case of trial and error, but I find your tips very useful so keep them coming.
Best wishes
Could be Aminopyralid poisoning. It’s a pretty serious issue in the UK that is starting to spread globally. Try the exact same experiment but using beans. If the beans don’t grow, the compost is either not aged appropriately or it Aminopyralid. Also, contact the compost vendor so they know as they might not realize they’re using poisoned manures/straw or whatever it is.
I plant everything together, crop rotation isn't really a thing. The only real problem I have is cucumber beetles, and I planted the cucumbers in a different place and still have them, I just planted more disease resistant types this year, so it's all good.
I think crop rotation only benefits farmers who plant massive amounts. Unless your dealing with a specific pest in your soil that only targets certain plants. I know farmers who plant corn one year will typically plant soybeans the next. Corn is a heavy feeder and I guess planting soybeans will add nitrogen back into the soil. Anyway that’s what I’ve always heard💚🙃
I tend to move things around based on how they looked in that location the prior year or how much light did they block from other plants etc so I don't really worry about rotation. Most of my crops are in pota though I'm only up to 5 garden beds
Dito, I don't rotate crops and I use compost and mulching in the same way. I also use cover crops and find it creates a resilient system for me.
Yes!
I've never rotated my plants in 40 years so far I haven't had a problem. I think your soil and the health of your plants has a lot to do with rather you need to rotate. Rotating won't hurt but I don't think necessary.
Excellent explanation and plan, will implement as I grow each season! At the moment I just plant wherever the bed is empty or their is space, thank you so much!
Tried crop rotation in my 80x40 in ground bed similar to what you described… got most crops destroyed this year by vine borer and cabbage moth… plan on solarizing my ground the rest of the summer to hopefully get rid of those grubs that have went into the ground causing my problem from the previous year
After you solarize your soil over the winter, in the spring remove tho solarization and drench the soil with beneficial nematodes before you plant. They really do help!
Cabbage moths are annoying but not soil born (they curl up a leaf and chilled there for a time). So you’re really just trying to get rid of borer larvae.
I have only been growing vegetables for 3 years. In raised beds. Last year I planted everything in the same place. This year I built all new beds so things were all in new beds. Even though I did have an issue with some bugs so next year I am rotating.
How would this work in a climate where we don't get frosts that kill off crops every year? I live in the tropics and certain types of plants could basically live for years unless you kill it or it dies off from some disease
I think this was traditionally done for nitrogen in the soil. Certain nitrogen hungry crops could not be grown in the same plot after a couple years cuz they would deplete nitrogen like corn and tobacco. They would rotate and include a season of fallow field to replenish nitrogen. Its not really relevant in a world full of amendments and suburban gardens, although it might be worth it for pest reasons which I think still needs to be justified.
@@jeil5676 I realise that, and I appreciate that you went through the effort of typing out a long response, but it doesn't really answer my question
@@TooLittleInfo I was just trying to point out that its kind of a dated idea and maybe not relevant cuz we have modern fertilizers and compost . Unfortunately thats all I can tell you cuz I live way up north.
@@TooLittleInfo I have the same question. I have some pepper plants that are over a year old and about 4 feet tall. I suspect the soil must be depleted. I think what I am going to do is prune them to increase airflow and lift the foliage from the ground, add some compost and slow release granular fertilizer on top, add a thick layer of mulch on top and then a water soluble fertilizer. The plants are just so beautiful I have been postponing this for so long but I think if I continue harvesting peppers, it may contribute to their demise. Sorry I didn’t answer your question but hopefully the suggestion works for both of us.
Have you ever had a tomato taste test. How many varieties do you grow? I'd love your feed back on tomatoes.
What kind of Mulch do you use where your tomatoes is grown?By the way I'm on the East Coast and enjoy your channel.Thank you for what you do for the garden community.
Speaking of layering with compost. Do you have a video on how you make compost? So far I’m very bad at it. Thanks for the video.
There's plenty of videos out there. I made the mistake of starting with too small of a pile. Now I have great compost with bins made from pallets. I made it with 4 bins so I can have 3 working and one empty for mixing. I'll post a pic on the facebook site tomorrow.
Ive grown the same crops year after year on the same bed. But where I live I only get to plant spring and summer so the fall to mid spring nothing is planted and my beds rest 75% of the year. So I think that helps me not to worry about nematodes. Wishful thinking maybe.
I have containers and beds and I grow different plants and plant them wherever they need to go. I don't have set places for them. It's a brand new experience every year. But, every year I have more containers, bags. tub, water troughs, old rain barrels cut in half, pails( thanks to Home Depot), pretty soon I need to move too , I need more space, I only have a back yard, plus I have a few fruit trees too. So my yard is getting pretty crowded, my husband and I compete for space and he's a mechanic, I already had to give up a strip in the back to make room for a covered parking space for his truck. 👩🏽🌾🖖🏽🧡😎
This method makes a lot of sense.
I don't consciously rotate my crops. Like you, I lay down compost and I water at the roots/soil level. I follow the same philosophy as Charles Dowding and do lots of companion planting.
THANK YOU!!!!!!! I’ve been stressed about how to do this. You explained it perfectly!!
I did not rotate my peppers and now I have a bacterial disease in that bed and cannot grow peppers, tomatoes, or anything related in that bed. However, I’m in Florida and I get these diseases probably from all the rain.
Thank you so so much for simplifying this rotation plan for vegetable gardening. I’ve been trying to understand this & now I get it. Also so excited to see how your new property gardens will be for the future!🌺
I don’t really have the space to rotate crops but I do move some around to see where they grow best.
I square foot garden so I sort of rotate but not really. I have 1 long trellis so that's where the peas go in the winter/spring and tomatoes/cukes in summer/fall. Since I'm in SoCal 10a, my peppers stay in the same squares all year, every year. I do try to change up which squares I put my bush beans, leafy greens and root veggies in (I have no luck with brassicas).
What I still don't get and can't do is add 3" of compost every year, let alone every season. My "raised" beds are only about 5" tall trying to amend heavy clay soil; I would love taller beds but it's not going to happen here. My soil level drops very little, if at all, so I'm lucky to have space to add a shovel full of compost and a shovel full of peat moss each season.
I do rotate my crops to some degree because I grow everything in containers so I can "rotate" at will. That's going to change since I learned that my pepper plants are perennials.
My pepper plants are in the same container they were in last year. The only thing I did was prune them and add compost a wee bit of 5-5-5 in late winter. They’re fine.
Hairy vetch! 🤣🤣🤣 Good one!
We need to talk about the whole gardening change you're facing and trellis system differences and such. 🤣 Plus weed barrier versus mulch. 😉 You'll have so many more options available to you having a larger space and having in ground versus raised beds. So exciting!
Hairy vetch is toxic to animals. Beware.
You rock and you made this so simple to do. I will struggle a bit here as my raised beds are only three!! No room for four. I’ll figure it out. Thanks Brian.
Yes I do
Oh my gosh, alot to remember. lol That's for a gardening journal is for.
Same!!
Thank you, saving this video.
My veggies that I have used Neptune products has made a difference in my garden, so healthy and growing strong.
Excellent Brian! I finally get it! Not easy to do though because of lack limited beds!
Good stuff here. I'm fortunate to have chickens so I let them poke around in my garden beds all winter - fertilizing and de-bugging :). I've heard from many sources that one important factor is to ONLY buy organic seed potatoes which should be advertised as fungus free. Don't just plant cheap seed from anywhere. I wonder if you get your information from Dr. Elaine Ingham, renowned soil expert? Her videos and interviews are a little dense for someone like me (science dummy) so I appreciate you filtering it for us :)
I might have to do this.
my garden is so small, i really can't rotate, thanks for this.
Is it possible to get the list of the vegetables categories so next year I can plant my veggies with the proper veggies groupe for futur moving my crop? Thank You!
Do you let your chickens get into your raised beds to help clean out bugs? I just got a chicken today and tomorrow I will go and get 2 more. I will have the bird roaming the garden area I am cleaning out and i saw tons of cucumber or tomato beetles or something that has small yellow and brown stripes. So chickens have earn their keep while I am prepping and growing seedlings. Some stuff is coming up by itself. Cilantro, lettuce, and the green onions are still growing. Most of my stuff stayed under water in the flood we had twice in about a month and a half plus our freeze this year in Texas.
Brilliant! Have been wondering on how to rotate the soil used in the best possible way. Thank you Brian.
I liked the explanation, I had never thought about how crop rotation works in relation to plant types.
North County San Diego growing zone 10b checking in 🌱 Definitely need to start a gardening journal to remember the order of rotation!! Thanks @Brian 👩🌾🙏🌻
I live in a much wetter climate in the mid-Atlantic, where >95% of the water the garden needs comes from rain, and a consistent amount nearly every month. I notice certain tomato varieties are prone to getting wilt by midsummer (while the majority are OK, as are my peppers). Do wilt-resistant tomatoes and peppers foster the growth of the wilt fungi they are immune to, or can they count towards rotation if you are taking care of nutrition issues? It also seems likely some of the wilt is caused by native pathogens that are widespread here. I'd be OK with growing those few highly susceptible heirlooms in special locations with new soil. I'm not a fan of heavy chemical intervention in the soil chemistry. Are there better options?
Do you use a particular compost?
I do, but I don't. LOL.. My main issue is pests.. Flying pests, so it doesn't really matter where I put stuff. They find it wherever it is...I just put stuff wherever it fits.
Thank you thank you! This has been the hardest thing for me to figure out.
Man! I'm so glad that I finally heard that explained!
Crop rotation is hard when your garden consist of about 80% tomatoes and peppers. I just add compost at the end of the year then test it in the spring and add whatever minerals and nutrients I need.
Can you recommend a good test kit?
@@kcamplisson1 I use the leaf luster soil tester. I don’t know if one kit is better then the other. I pretty much research everything then just pick the one that I think will work for what I want.
What do you suggest to do with strawberries since they stay in the same place year to year?
Thank you so much. Very logical and easy to remember.
I don't really keep track like that. Honestly, I try to keep something growing all the time, even in winter - sort of - so it is not a thing. Spring crops get followed by nightshade and curcubit types and then we I am getting tired of those the fall plants are going in. I interplant beans and peas all over the place where I can fit them. Just so you know, I live in zone 6 NE Pennsylvania, so yes, there are significant climate differences from where you are.
Awesome, can't wait to get started! THank YOu!
Excellent info. Nice and simple too!
Help. I love corn on the cob. It sucks a lot of nitrogen out of the soil, right? If so, should it be categorized in the leaf family as far as rotation goes?
Question- I know you were saying rotate each year, but would this work as well for each season? For example- I can see growing fruits mostly spring/summer where I live, then roots fall/winter.
I do a lot of succession planting. When one crop quits producing it goes to the compost and the next set of seeds is planted. So in any given spot oh, I may have two or three different types of crops in any one season ie. Where I plant my spring peas, my summer squash get planted and when they are done I might be planting some fall greens this makes it really difficult to figure out what to rotate in and out. Create a lot of my own compost and each bed is dressed with it in the spring and again in fall any thoughts on the efficacy of not rotating my crops in such a situation?
Thank you for all the info you share. I have a question, what’s the best type of mulch? Do you have a video on that?
Oh goodness what to do! I think I will stick to adding 3 inches of compost to my vegetable beds I just do it once a year in November, with our climate it seems to work well! But good to know all this information! ☘️☘️☘️☘️☘️👍🏼
i like the legumes - leaf - fruit - root 😊
Wow! You make me think.
Do you have a video on companion planting? And, how does that work with the segregation of plant families?
I live in NW Florida where it rains almost every day inthe summer and the humidity is extremely high... We also battle fire ants i definitely rotate crops
If you have trellis in place can't you still do some rotations?
Very informative video Brian, thank you
Does rotation gardening rules also follow companion planting rules? So when planting friends next to each other wouldn't they take all the needed nutrients that each plant needs?
Good information! Thank you for sharing!
I need a chart for this...
Love the method but I over winter my peppers every year here in Monterey and am concerned moving them every year. Your thoughts .. 👋🏻💕
Great video. U r so knowledgeable ……. Without being boring 😊.
Do you have to do rotation with potted soil aka container gardening?
Great Video. Timely too since I was just googling this subject two days ago. Question - I read or watched somewhere (maybe this channel) that beets actually like a lot of nitrogen, even though they are roots and you might think they would want more potassium. So shouldn't beets be with the leaf group?
If I am growing multiple different plants close to each other is there still a benefit from crop rotation? I try to have at least 8 different plants per 4x8 bed and that seems to take care of any issues that crop rotation could solve.
What if you have a spring summer garden and fall winter garden in the same garden. Can i count that as rotation? So I would get two rotations a calender year???
Does biofumigant like mustard help ?
this was great.....BUT i couldnt take my eyes off the plant in the background with huge white flowers!!!! What is that?
A Dahlia
If you are unable to make your own compost which commercially available product would you recommend and where to you buy straw mulch in small quantities,
Epic Gardening here on RUclips sells straw in smaller packages. I bought EZ Straw on RUclips for $20 and it’s lasting me FOREVER.
Ez straw on Amazon, not RUclips. Sorry. 😂