two things: 1. Aluminum rail expands A LOT. You need to add a 1/16" to 1/8" gap in joints to allow for expansion or the track will buckle in the heat. 2. The holes drilled for the joiners should be horizontal U shaped to allow the rail to slide during expansion. A rail punch is the easiest way to do this.
There is a gap. It was 105 that day. Some gaps had to be put in after filming with a angle grinder. That will be shown in the next video. The brackets are slotted instead of the rail.
Do your flanges hit the nuts or bolts with them sticking out on the inside? I'm building a 2 ft gauge and the flanges are tall enough that I have to have the nuts on the outside.
There are many different companies that make them in different styles and materials. Ours are aluminum. Don't remember the name of the company we got ours from.
2 issues, 1. if your hardware is not stainless, 20 years from now you will have to use a grinder to remove the screws to replace rail. 2. without a locknut your screws will loosen up over time from vibration. We use stainless 10-32 hex head bolts and stainless nylon lock nuts. We use 3/16" gap at 75F and set more or less gap based on the temp at the time we lay the track. We have a rail punch and punch slots in our rail, our joiners just have holes in them. opposite of what you have but same effect. Dave Pierce - Finger lakes Live Steamers.
@David Pierce. You don't have a clue, they should be aluminium to avoid galvanic corrosion Ask any landrover owner what happens when you mix steel and aluminium lol
@@dlplost you're maybe thinking about the fasteners rusting. There absolutely will be galvanic corrosion, stainless has a potential of between 0 to - 0.05, possibly as high as - 0.2V. Aluminum alloy a are typically around - 0.7 to - 0.9V giving a minimum of 0.5V difference, pretty much guarenteeing galvanic corrosion The aluminium will be anodic and the stainless cathodic thereby setting up for the corrosion that will eat at the aluminium If you see tea staining on any fasteners that's a result of the galvanic action and not the fastener corroding
@@MoosesWorkshop thats awesome!! Yes I was going to build a g scale garden train but i stopped.. and got the idea to build a larger scale. I have had trains since I was a kid.. I even bought a house next to the tracks. I found you channel as was like YES!!! You have inspired me. now i got to figure out if i want to build it at my house or out on my off grid land.
@@VarnHomestead thanks. Always build where it cam be kept an eye on with security and a fence. Plenty of other build videos on my channel so have a look. Even my mistakes are there.
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
How do you bend the rail for the curves? Caculate the radius? Great Job!!
two things:
1. Aluminum rail expands A LOT. You need to add a 1/16" to 1/8" gap in joints to allow for expansion or the track will buckle in the heat.
2. The holes drilled for the joiners should be horizontal U shaped to allow the rail to slide during expansion. A rail punch is the easiest way to do this.
There is a gap. It was 105 that day. Some gaps had to be put in after filming with a angle grinder. That will be shown in the next video. The brackets are slotted instead of the rail.
He only has the oval. It's doubtful he will have any extreem expansion for his oval track. It's more significant for long rail spans.
A circle, not an oval. And it expands and contracts quite a bit when it gets over 100 degrees. But with proper gapping it is no problem.
The engine looks like a mini version of the ones they use on the Indonesian sugar cane plantation.
It is based on a Plymouth 25 ton switcher. :)
Nice!
Do your flanges hit the nuts or bolts with them sticking out on the inside? I'm building a 2 ft gauge and the flanges are tall enough that I have to have the nuts on the outside.
You can have them face either way. No where near the wheel flanges. Just like on real track.
Be sure to watch part 3 for more info.
Where do you get the rail and how much?
Don't remember the name but prices has rippled in the past few years. Lots of different companies make it in different styles and metals.
where do you buy these rails?
There are many different companies that make them in different styles and materials. Ours are aluminum. Don't remember the name of the company we got ours from.
Should of used nylon locking nut. Those regular nuts will loosen up pretty quick and fishplates will stop holding well.
worked fine for 4 years now.
Fun!
Everyone is installing a railroad.
Material's used
@@JohnnyJohnson-b8i all mentioned in part one. :)
2 issues,
1. if your hardware is not stainless, 20 years from now you will have to use a grinder to remove the screws to replace rail.
2. without a locknut your screws will loosen up over time from vibration.
We use stainless 10-32 hex head bolts and stainless nylon lock nuts. We use 3/16" gap at 75F and set more or less gap based on the temp at the time we lay the track. We have a rail punch and punch slots in our rail, our joiners just have holes in them. opposite of what you have but same effect. Dave Pierce - Finger lakes Live Steamers.
My hardware is aluminum just like the rail. Also remember, this is only part 2 of 3. :)
@David Pierce.
You don't have a clue, they should be aluminium to avoid galvanic corrosion
Ask any landrover owner what happens when you mix steel and aluminium lol
@@Th3_Gael go back and read what i said. We use STAINLESS steel hardware so there is NO galvanic corrosion..
@@dlplost you're maybe thinking about the fasteners rusting.
There absolutely will be galvanic corrosion, stainless has a potential of between 0 to - 0.05, possibly as high as - 0.2V. Aluminum alloy a are typically around - 0.7 to - 0.9V giving a minimum of 0.5V difference, pretty much guarenteeing galvanic corrosion
The aluminium will be anodic and the stainless cathodic thereby setting up for the corrosion that will eat at the aluminium
If you see tea staining on any fasteners that's a result of the galvanic action and not the fastener corroding
@@Th3_Gael well, we've been using stainless for more than 40 years with no problem what so ever.
let me guess you watched the show Silver Spoons as a kid too..LOL
Yes I did lol, but the reason I built mine is because as a kid the park in the area used to have a small train ride about this size.
@@MoosesWorkshop thats awesome!! Yes I was going to build a g scale garden train but i stopped.. and got the idea to build a larger scale. I have had trains since I was a kid.. I even bought a house next to the tracks. I found you channel as was like YES!!! You have inspired me. now i got to figure out if i want to build it at my house or out on my off grid land.
@@VarnHomestead thanks. Always build where it cam be kept an eye on with security and a fence.
Plenty of other build videos on my channel so have a look. Even my mistakes are there.
Nobody in there right mind would use slotted head screws.
Better grip than a hex head. But thanks for your opinion.
We who even think of building a small railroad are not in our right minds. Go bother someone else. If it works be quiet.
Another great video ruined by music!
I'm deaf so I make due...