Commendable job to take on a project that someone else took apart. I stepped in to an Aston DB6 in a similar situation. I had to go backwards for about 8 months before I could go forward. The guy had powder coated all sorts of sheet metal parts without test fitting, and it was all a nightmare. Got there in the end, and my customer is very happy. I aged 10 years on that car....
Brilliant work. The British Car Industry is definitely the gift that keeps on giving. Amazing to see so many classics being brought back to life at JetStream!
That’s the fastest half hour - I was so engrossed that when you said ‘bye bye’ my heart sank. Seeing this Jaguar being put together piece by piece is totally fascinating and your commentary is the best. When it’s complete the video series should go to skillshare - then anyone could strip and rebuild an XK150 😀
Great episode, with all the interesting variety. I am all for discreet, well thought out improvements like the drain hole in the headlights nacelles. I would install a porous plug in the drain hole to prevent water from washing, or road splash to enter the cavity. A porous plug also discourages insects from making their way into the nacelle cavity. A jute-like material was used in the past, but these days one can use a polymer fine mesh, tightly rolled and inserted in the drain hole.
Wonderful wonderful stuff Richard, I was already in love with the chrome furniture on the beautiful rear end, but my fickle heart has already been stolen by those BREATHTAKING headlight pods 😍 live long and prosper Richard & Michael
I love watching this car come together (as I did with the junk E-type engine). You guys have quite a vibrant little British sports car restoration ecosystem up there. I wasn’t really a British sports car guy before starting to watch your videos, but I have gained an appreciation for them. Your enthusiasm is pretty contagious. Thanks again for another great video.
Love your standard of workmanship, thoughtful approach to modifications and above all your knowledge and experience in building these cars! The only approach to doing them justice. It seems to me these cars are above amateur rebuilding the value of experience and know how is priceless. I see you moving into rebuilding Swiss watches soon!
Best channel on RUclips ! ! ! hands down. Great work Richard and thanks for giving your dad some camera time. Its always good to see and hear from him as well.
Your Dad is a genius, I've struggled with those shocks with a Cotter pin on the rear of Range Rover Classics and Series Landies, never thought of making a "special" compressing tool, just struggled until the pin finally went in. Great work Richard...
Richard, Great idea with the vice grip tool for clamping the lower bushes, I mounted my rear shocks with the body off so there is not enough weight to get them lined up so i used two ratchet straps on the axle.The XK is looking gorgeous the old english white looks great against the chrome. Cheers Dave
Richard, I have a question for you! What is the hole for in the floor under the rear jump seat on the drivers side. Some one as asked me and for the life of me i can‘t see why it‘s there after checking the rolling chassis there seems no aparent reason??? Cheers Dave
My father was a brilliant mechanic and he would appreciate the quality of your work. It's so good to see how well you do this restauration. I look forward to the next video.
The attention to detail and the quality of workmanship is outstanding. So reassuring to see a body shop that does the job properly. Thanks for sharing Richard & really looking forward to the next update. Regards from the U.K. 🇬🇧🇨🇦
Just love the detail - it lets the car talk - and the learning knowledge professionalism shine through that holds the interest of the viewer - or at least this viewer - thank you
Guys, so very well done on all aspects of this resto. Love the attention to detail such as drilling hole inside headlamp to act as a drain, fabulous work restoring these British motoring icons so that they live on. Very well done and love this. Must be so rewarding spiritually to work on these cars every day and see such a beautiful and lasting end product!
I had a mechanical training in school, later on became a electronic/IT engineer . Asking myself if it was the right choice ; ) . This is so clean and invites me to begin a restoration myself, mechanics can be so rewarding if done right. But on the other hand, we know it is allot of elbow grease and 99% cursing ..... nice channel and your a very good teacher with contagious enthusiasm A+
A stunning classic car! XK's can be very difficult to restore when it comes underside bodywork, especially behind the rear wheel arches, which many would shy away from undertaking. It's a job worth doing if you want to enjoy a rare classic car that is so characterful.
As Mr Spoc would say fascinating ! the small lights we use to call suicide lights as in the 60s jag drivers would only have them on at night crazy people.
A Tiger Mk 2! Wow,I had a friend that owned a hobby shop in Clearwater,Fla back when I was a kid that had a Sunbeam Tiger. He drove that car from New Port Richey to Clearwater for several years and it was a great car. Quite fast for it’s day.
606 Mk 2 Tigers made for export between 23rd Dec 1966 and 27th June 1967. Not all went to the States. I have one of the 27 delivered to British customers.
Your episodes just keep getting better and better. Side note: I've been using that "antiquated" scroll seal on my XK engine rebuilds and they've never leaked a single drop. It surprised me you retrofitted a rubber lip seal on this build.
The quality of your videos match the quality of your rebuilds, a real pleasure to see such attention to detail! If it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing properly. I’m looking forward to the next one. I really enjoy the mix of English and Canadian terms for parts. 😃
Hi Richard, I have farmed with Jags for many years. Great videos. If I may comment you have the red prisms on the side lights the wrong way, the vertical face should be towards the rear to reflect the light backwards to be visible to the driver.
I'm not so sure I agree. I researched this for my XK and came to the conclusion that Mk2 Jags have your preference. I also conducted some dark garage tests and found them better when installed as on video. I have however used LED bulbs that are distinctly better.
These are optical prisms which reflect the light out of the vertical end. It makes sense for the driver to be able to see them as they approximately mark the front extremities of the vehicle.
Superb episode. I am with you in making modifications to protect these cars and also to make the driving experience more pleasant and safe. I have a 65 Mustang that I drive a lot here in the UK. I have fitted power disc brakes, done some suspension upgrades including Koni shocks and also fitted brighter headlights to compete with those modern German cars that have lights bright enough to give you a sun tan!! I suppose if the owner wants an absolute concourse garage queen car that is trailered to shows to just win medals and pots that's a different thing, but not my bag.
I am far from an expert on classic car restoration, BUT I do think those nacelle drain holes should be an essential upgrade to protect such a valuable car body. I would want it done to may car. Most enjoyable and interesting to watch the engine assembly process. Thank you.
This is just such a wonderful channel to watch and to see the exquisite workmanship being done by all involved! You must all feel very proud of what you can achieve! Magnificent It is really enjoyable to see and watch!
@@RichardMichaelOwen I am sure your team is wonderful to be fair, but seeing the care and attention to detail that you and your dad preform on the engine work it is just wonderful to see your level too ;) I hope you and your dad are ok with this retched pandemic! My mum died in Sept of 2019 aged 95 and I am almost thankfully we have not had to go through difficulties involved frankly! Thanks for the wonderful channel you have I al thoroughly enjoying it!!
Awesome finicky job on a such beautiful car, Richard ! Your attention to evey details is so nice to see ! Can't wait to hear that so special engine sound. Jaguar straight sixes have such a unique growl ! 👍
Regarding the drain hole in the headlight, we used to put a slightly opened cotter pin (or split pin as we called them in the UK)) in the hole this stopped road dirt blocking the hole as the pin would rattle around in the hole. I love the old Jags.
You are a hard worker. You are methodical. You know what you are doing. You know what? If I ever need any work doing on my Trabant I will give you a call. : )
Nice jobs as usual.... thanks Richard and Dad ....noticing how presentation and video quality is constantly improving .... now very professional with nice closeups and edits
Drain holes are good. I added a drain hole at the bottom of a Midget A post with the same design issue. Water with no place to go means rust out. I see it as a design oversight.
I find it odd that Americans call those cotter pins. In engineering, a cotter is a pin or wedge used to tie parts together tightly. One common use was to tie a crank to a crankshaft or a piston rod to a crosshead. That was how pedal cranks used to be attached on old bicycles, with a cotter pin. The term use in the UK is "split pin", which is descriptive of what they are. That is a pin split down the middle, which is bent to prevent a castellated nut or other fixing from coming loose. Also, just about everybody in the motor trade refers to dampers as "shock absorbers". They aren't. In engineering terms, what absorbs the shock is the spring, and the damper is there to damp down the springs action, especially on the rebound. For that matter, radiators work almost entirely by convection, and are really liquid to air heat exchangers. The motor trade seems to corrupt a lot of engineering terms.
Hello, the drainhole behind headlight unit should be at least dia. 5mm. It looks rather small. The max. waterdrop size is dia. 2.5 mm for a drop of 50 mm3. Especially with fresh painted hole edges take at. least 5mm on the safe side. Your restauration is a great exemple of a high end on!
Hi Richard . The Jaguar is really starting to come together . Seeing you fitting the big end bearings reminded me of a tale from my best buddy. We both trained at a Jag' dealer ship I, as a panelbeater and Richard as a mechanic back in 1970 ! Richards mentor was Reg' . Reg' was profoundly deaf from running up RR Merlins during the war. So they Installed the rebuilt 150 engine and Richard was underneath to check for leaks while Reg' ran her up. Reg' starts her up and the wrong bearings were fitted and this engine is knocking itself to pieces ! Richard is screaming at Reg' to switch off the engine ! Reg' can't hear so revs up the engine and suddenly becomes aware of a vibration !!! Too late he realises something's wrong ! We still laugh at Reg's misfortune to this day ! Jason's shop is full of gorgeous cars . I did wonder if that 120 belonged to anyone we know... RICHARD ! So why isn't that lower shock fixing a thread and nut ? Looks pretty fragile to me ! Great work Richard and as always your attention to detail is faultless ! Thanks . Take care and stay safe.
Hi Richard, Another excellant episode. A very thorough engine rebuild. Good idea with the drain hole in the headlamp nacelle, don't forget the forward headlamp seal that covers the retaining rim inside and helps prevent the ingress of water from the front. Are the side light tell tales the right way round? Just putting that thought out there. Can't wait for the next installment.
Love the way you made that tool for putting in the bushes for the Konis. Was it just me, though, or did other's hearts sink when they saw that electric motor going in that car. Feel like I just saw the soul sucked out the old girl... horrible!!! But peace to anyone who thinks it's a good idea... but I just can't imagine a car without a pulse and s-o-u-n-d.
I would have thought they would have used a nut and bolt on the bottom of the rear shock? That cotter (split-pin) doesn't look secure enough! Geoff. From UK.
Love your details in the video on the XK150. Was wondering if you lube the piston and ring assemblies as well as the wrist pin and small rod end before inserting them into the block? Keep up the great work.
Just to make a suggestion when you torque something and I know allot of people do this with torque wrenches. When you torque a bolt to its spec try not to hold your hand on the end of the wrench above the bolt. What happens it throws off readings based from your hand being over the bolt. One will get readings that might not be correct. Just my opinion.
Hi Richard, great video as usual! Thanks for the hint with the holes - that is really a good one. Actually the lamp pot seal should seal it all up - but most obviously it doesn't enough. So I will cater also for that hole, when it comes to the body work on my 150. I also had a stupid idea watching you: I really dislike the hole for the screw in the running light. It came to me to turn it up side down and fix it from beneath and lead load the upper hole and not weld - for easy restore originality if issue for anyone after me. What do you think? Great machining job. Here we also get another design of the rear seal, which is not split. but runs on the outside or the crank shaft flange. it also collects the oil and returns it. You also keep the rope and you don't machine the crank shaft. Theoretically it can be retrofitted without dismantling the engine. There are some advantages and disadvantages in each design. I don't trust the split oil seal fully, on the other hand i really don't like the rope seal. Maybe the old Asbestos seals were simply better in doin there job. Also, I had once an engine ice blasted inside out. The inside paint did come off and we had to reapply, as some old chap told me the red paint had the purpose to seal the engine block for oil leakage. Some of the castings did have issues of being not one hundred percent oil tight, as the casting had pores. I did not want to find your the hard way he was right. The ARP-Screws are great. I have come across a method to determine the stretch of the con rod bolts with a gauge. A guy building racing engines told me he does this all the time, not only to ensure the correct setting, but also to keep deforming of the journal and clearance in check. Thanks for sharing!
I checked, they do have a channel but it has two videos on it from ages ago, I left a comment that they should revive their channel, it would be great content. Perhaps if more people leave an encouraging comment they might give us another great channel to watch.
@@kittonsmitton Thank you Alistair. you are absolutely right. they need a huge "thumb up"! I mean when you see the "content" of their garage.... OMG! there are Gems to be admired there... for hours!!!
Was my dream car as a yougster, but in my budget, and still isn't. Looks like Jason has welded once or twice before. Great job on a great car. I always heard Lucus electrics were pretty bad??
Great work as usual and puts me to shame with my hack. I would make one comment. I fitted new springs years ago and bought Wefco leather spring gaiters. You wrap the springs with oily grease and rag beforehand. I checked them years later and they were like new. Stops grit and rust happening between the leaves.
I think you will find you have the red tell tail indicators are the wrong way around, the short side should face the driver so that it indicates to the driver that the light is on, the Lucas word should face the road.
I reference an unrestored XK150S Roadster for this build often. It still has it's original indicators like you see in the video. Maybe both cars are wrong?
@@RichardMichaelOwen I know this subject has always been a bone of contention by restorers I have researched it, plus like you I have worked in a Jaguar restoration shop, we always referenced original photo's when the cars came out of the factory and the question has been asked of the JEC in the UK many times,obviously you will have to do what you think is correct, but I would strongly suggest you try to look at some photos of vehicles as they came out of the factory, I do not think the XK150 would be different to other cars.
@@jagvette1 here is my example car, 57,000 miles, two owner car. The faded indicators look like the originals bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-jaguar-xk150s-roadster-4/
I'm putting one of these together that someone else had pulled apart 11 years ago, these videos have really helped me see how it's supposed to be 👌👏
Commendable job to take on a project that someone else took apart. I stepped in to an Aston DB6 in a similar situation. I had to go backwards for about 8 months before I could go forward. The guy had powder coated all sorts of sheet metal parts without test fitting, and it was all a nightmare. Got there in the end, and my customer is very happy. I aged 10 years on that car....
I didnt learn, as im doing the same with a 246 Dino now! 😂@ThomasMulhall
That 120 in Jason’s shop demonstrates why the headlight nacelle drain holes are a good idea.
This whole restoration project is a credit to all involved, it's really being done beatifully by genuinely talented engineers.It's wonderful Richard.
Y 6
Brilliant work. The British Car Industry is definitely the gift that keeps on giving. Amazing to see so many classics being brought back to life at JetStream!
That’s the fastest half hour - I was so engrossed that when you said ‘bye bye’ my heart sank. Seeing this Jaguar being put together piece by piece is totally fascinating and your commentary is the best. When it’s complete the video series should go to skillshare - then anyone could strip and rebuild an XK150 😀
Nigel great to hear from you. If I do another XK150 i''ll have to rewatch these ;)
You and your Dad do great job. Love old British cars and your series! Cheers!
The crankshaft is a work of art, the lights are looking beautiful too. 2x👍
Yeah i do like those headlights, looks real good
I thought of drainholes in the pod too, so very pleased to see you did too.
Great episode, with all the interesting variety. I am all for discreet, well thought out improvements like the drain hole in the headlights nacelles. I would install a porous plug in the drain hole to prevent water from washing, or road splash to enter the cavity. A porous plug also discourages insects from making their way into the nacelle cavity. A jute-like material was used in the past, but these days one can use a polymer fine mesh, tightly rolled and inserted in the drain hole.
Another great video. Also nice to see all the cars Jason is rebuilding!
Years ago, coming home from Morgan City, passed a coach towing a maroon Jag. Love these cars.
Wonderful wonderful stuff Richard, I was already in love with the chrome furniture on the beautiful rear end, but my fickle heart has already been stolen by those BREATHTAKING headlight pods 😍 live long and prosper Richard & Michael
I love watching this car come together (as I did with the junk E-type engine). You guys have quite a vibrant little British sports car restoration ecosystem up there. I wasn’t really a British sports car guy before starting to watch your videos, but I have gained an appreciation for them. Your enthusiasm is pretty contagious. Thanks again for another great video.
Love your standard of workmanship, thoughtful approach to modifications and above all your knowledge and experience in building these cars! The only approach to doing them justice. It seems to me these cars are above amateur rebuilding the value of experience and know how is priceless. I see you moving into rebuilding Swiss watches soon!
Best channel on RUclips ! ! ! hands down. Great work Richard and thanks for giving your dad some camera time. Its always good to see and hear from him as well.
Great to have you along Calvin
Your Dad is a genius, I've struggled with those shocks with a Cotter pin on the rear of Range Rover Classics and Series Landies, never thought of making a "special" compressing tool, just struggled until the pin finally went in. Great work Richard...
Lovely job Richard............
Love these videos Richard!! Fascinating process and your narration is great. 👍
Richard, Great idea with the vice grip tool for clamping the lower bushes, I mounted my rear shocks with the body off so there is not enough weight to
get them lined up so i used two ratchet straps on the axle.The XK is looking gorgeous the old english white looks great against the chrome. Cheers Dave
Richard, I have a question for you! What is the hole for in the floor under the rear jump seat on the drivers side. Some one as asked me and for the life of me i can‘t see why it‘s there after checking the rolling chassis there seems no aparent reason??? Cheers Dave
A work of art.
Nice
My father was a brilliant mechanic and he would appreciate the quality of your work. It's so good to see how well you do this restauration. I look forward to the next video.
Richard--- You and your Father do some outstanding workmanship on the restoration of these magnificent time pieces.
Love the old Jaguars.
What a beauty, what a first class job your doing .
Great episode again Richard, thanks!
Such a fabulous finish, well done. Kind regards, Richard.
Beautiful work on a beautiful car. Well Wurth a watch ....
I am not sponsored I swear
Great video, real craftsman engineering 👍
The attention to detail and the quality of workmanship is outstanding. So reassuring to see a body shop that does the job properly. Thanks for sharing Richard & really looking forward to the next update.
Regards from the U.K. 🇬🇧🇨🇦
Just love the detail - it lets the car talk - and the learning knowledge professionalism shine through that holds the interest of the viewer - or at least this viewer - thank you
I was about to say the the crankshaft is a work of art - but you said it already.
Great work.
Guys, so very well done on all aspects of this resto. Love the attention to detail such as drilling hole inside headlamp to act as a drain, fabulous work restoring these British motoring icons so that they live on. Very well done and love this.
Must be so rewarding spiritually to work on these cars every day and see such a beautiful and lasting end product!
What a terrific job you are doing on the XK150, it's great to watch it come to life through each video.
Loving this restoration. Great work Richard.
The headlights are a work of art. Really enjoyed seeing them go together.
Always a pleasure starting my day with one of your videos. Many thanks,
George
I'm sure many sculptors would be happy to make something as beautiful as that crankshaft...
I had a mechanical training in school, later on became a electronic/IT engineer . Asking myself if it was the right choice ; ) . This is so clean and invites me to begin a restoration myself, mechanics can be so rewarding if done right. But on the other hand, we know it is allot of elbow grease and 99% cursing ..... nice channel and your a very good teacher with contagious enthusiasm A+
Love that Jag Richard..................you and ya Dad are real perfectionist
Spectacular. Thank you for sharing. Enjoying very much following along with your build.
A stunning classic car! XK's can be very difficult to restore when it comes underside bodywork, especially behind the rear wheel arches, which many would shy away from undertaking. It's a job worth doing if you want to enjoy a rare classic car that is so characterful.
As Mr Spoc would say fascinating ! the small lights we use to call suicide lights as in the 60s jag drivers would only have them on at night crazy people.
Can’t wait to see it completed, love the work you’re doing.
Another fantastic job
A Tiger Mk 2! Wow,I had a friend that owned a hobby shop in Clearwater,Fla back when I was a kid that had a Sunbeam Tiger. He drove that car from New Port Richey to Clearwater for several years and it was a great car. Quite fast for it’s day.
606 Mk 2 Tigers made for export between 23rd Dec 1966 and 27th June 1967. Not all went to the States. I have one of the 27 delivered to British customers.
Michael et ses compétences , si facile á voir qu·on a envie d·être mécano ...Félicitations ...
Nice work through out.
Lovely work, fellas. You paint your motors after assembly I see. That is going to be a very stylish car.
Could have painted it earlier, but the machine shop still has my water jacket plugs
Your episodes just keep getting better and better. Side note: I've been using that "antiquated" scroll seal on my XK engine rebuilds and they've never leaked a single drop. It surprised me you retrofitted a rubber lip seal on this build.
The quality of your videos match the quality of your rebuilds, a real pleasure to see such attention to detail! If it’s worth doing, it’s worth doing properly. I’m looking forward to the next one. I really enjoy the mix of English and Canadian terms for parts. 😃
Hi Richard, I have farmed with Jags for many years. Great videos. If I may comment you have the red prisms on the side lights the wrong way, the vertical face should be towards the rear to reflect the light backwards to be visible to the driver.
I'm not so sure I agree. I researched this for my XK and came to the conclusion that Mk2 Jags have your preference. I also conducted some dark garage tests and found them better when installed as on video. I have however used LED bulbs that are distinctly better.
These are optical prisms which reflect the light out of the vertical end. It makes sense for the driver to be able to see them as they approximately mark the front extremities of the vehicle.
Again, loving the attention to all aspects as well as the unagitated and tasteful presentation. Waiting for the next one - thanks Richard + Dad ;-)
Superb episode. I am with you in making modifications to protect these cars and also to make the driving experience more pleasant and safe. I have a 65 Mustang that I drive a lot here in the UK. I have fitted power disc brakes, done some suspension upgrades including Koni shocks and also fitted brighter headlights to compete with those modern German cars that have lights bright enough to give you a sun tan!! I suppose if the owner wants an absolute concourse garage queen car that is trailered to shows to just win medals and pots that's a different thing, but not my bag.
I am far from an expert on classic car restoration, BUT I do think those nacelle drain holes should be an essential upgrade to protect such a valuable car body. I would want it done to
may car.
Most enjoyable and interesting to watch the engine assembly process.
Thank you.
Great video guys well done- Its usually easier to insert the shocker bushing if you put some grease on it first.
Great video and content as usual. In the tour of Jason’s shop you went straight passed the Corvette!! 😲😜
Love your work...as usual.
Fascinating! it's all slowly coming together.....i would love to see owners face watching these videos...
This is just such a wonderful channel to watch and to see the exquisite workmanship being done by all involved! You must all feel very proud of what you can achieve! Magnificent It is really enjoyable to see and watch!
Thanks Nigel, this is all possible from the exceptional craftsmen I work with and the parts suppliers across the world.
@@RichardMichaelOwen I am sure your team is wonderful to be fair, but seeing the care and attention to detail that you and your dad preform on the engine work it is just wonderful to see your level too ;) I hope you and your dad are ok with this retched pandemic! My mum died in Sept of 2019 aged 95 and I am almost thankfully we have not had to go through difficulties involved frankly! Thanks for the wonderful channel you have I al thoroughly enjoying it!!
Excellent ! Great job of working on the car, videoing it, editing and commentary. Such a beautiful design of a car.
Beautiful
Looking great, always look forward to the next episode.
Drain is excellent !. As is rust proofing. Blown away by all the Healeys !!!
Awesome finicky job on a such beautiful car, Richard ! Your attention to evey details is so nice to see !
Can't wait to hear that so special engine sound. Jaguar straight sixes have such a unique growl ! 👍
Regarding the drain hole in the headlight, we used to put a slightly opened cotter pin (or split pin as we called them in the UK)) in the hole this stopped road dirt blocking the hole as the pin would rattle around in the hole. I love the old Jags.
Truly enjoy all your videos and explanations. I have a new found appreciation for the art and craft. Magnificent
I know someone who has one of these in original condition, they also have a e type in original condition beautiful cars !!
Cheers enjoy these videos gives me plenty of tips. one day i will need to restore my 1963 Austin A60 Van for now its still my daily driver
To attach a hard fitting grommet or bushing on a Shock for example I most times will add some Dish soap. Goes on easy and clean.
Lovely work, Rich (and great tip on finessing the thrust washers)! As many below are saying, Jason at Jetstream needs his own YT channel.
You are a hard worker. You are methodical. You know what you are doing. You know what? If I ever need any work doing on my Trabant I will give you a call. : )
Woww...4 hands needed to fit a side light !
Nice jobs as usual.... thanks Richard and Dad ....noticing how presentation and video quality is constantly improving .... now very professional with nice closeups and edits
Drain holes are good. I added a drain hole at the bottom of a Midget A post with the same design issue. Water with no place to go means rust out. I see it as a design oversight.
Very classy!
What a pleasure, thankyou
Love your channel, beautiful work, stunning Jag!
I find it odd that Americans call those cotter pins. In engineering, a cotter is a pin or wedge used to tie parts together tightly. One common use was to tie a crank to a crankshaft or a piston rod to a crosshead. That was how pedal cranks used to be attached on old bicycles, with a cotter pin. The term use in the UK is "split pin", which is descriptive of what they are. That is a pin split down the middle, which is bent to prevent a castellated nut or other fixing from coming loose.
Also, just about everybody in the motor trade refers to dampers as "shock absorbers". They aren't. In engineering terms, what absorbs the shock is the spring, and the damper is there to damp down the springs action, especially on the rebound. For that matter, radiators work almost entirely by convection, and are really liquid to air heat exchangers. The motor trade seems to corrupt a lot of engineering terms.
Sweet mechanical goodness.
Hello, the drainhole behind headlight unit should be at least dia. 5mm. It looks rather small. The max. waterdrop size is dia. 2.5 mm for a drop of 50 mm3. Especially with fresh painted hole edges take at. least 5mm on the safe side. Your restauration is a great exemple of a high end on!
Quality ,Quality,....very nice!
Brilliant!
Thanks, good looking work!
You are making me drool!
Hi Richard . The Jaguar is really starting to come together . Seeing you fitting the big end bearings reminded me of a tale from my best buddy. We both trained at a Jag' dealer ship I, as a panelbeater and Richard as a mechanic back in 1970 ! Richards mentor was Reg' . Reg' was profoundly deaf from running up RR Merlins during the war. So they Installed the rebuilt 150 engine and Richard was underneath to check for leaks while Reg' ran her up. Reg' starts her up and the wrong bearings were fitted and this engine is knocking itself to pieces ! Richard is screaming at Reg' to switch off the engine ! Reg' can't hear so revs up the engine and suddenly becomes aware of a vibration !!! Too late he realises something's wrong ! We still laugh at Reg's misfortune to this day ! Jason's shop is full of gorgeous cars . I did wonder if that 120 belonged to anyone we know... RICHARD ! So why isn't that lower shock fixing a thread and nut ? Looks pretty fragile to me ! Great work Richard and as always your attention to detail is faultless ! Thanks . Take care and stay safe.
Hi Richard, Another excellant episode. A very thorough engine rebuild. Good idea with the drain hole in the headlamp nacelle, don't forget the forward headlamp seal that covers the retaining rim inside and helps prevent the ingress of water from the front. Are the side light tell tales the right way round? Just putting that thought out there. Can't wait for the next installment.
Yes I have those seals, forgot to show them. Ah well. Thanks for watching.
Love the way you made that tool for putting in the bushes for the Konis. Was it just me, though, or did other's hearts sink when they saw that electric motor going in that car. Feel like I just saw the soul sucked out the old girl... horrible!!! But peace to anyone who thinks it's a good idea... but I just can't imagine a car without a pulse and s-o-u-n-d.
I would have thought they would have used a nut and bolt on the bottom of the rear shock? That cotter (split-pin) doesn't look secure enough!
Geoff. From UK.
Healy Restos must be big thing. Here in Australia know a few guys who have big Healy's and the resto biz is huge.
Love your details in the video on the XK150. Was wondering if you lube the piston and ring assemblies as well as the wrist pin and small rod end before inserting them into the block? Keep up the great work.
Just to make a suggestion when you torque something and I know allot of people do this with torque wrenches. When you torque a bolt to its spec try not to hold your hand on the end of the wrench above the bolt. What happens it throws off readings based from your hand being over the bolt. One will get readings that might not be correct. Just my opinion.
Hi Richard, great video as usual! Thanks for the hint with the holes - that is really a good one. Actually the lamp pot seal should seal it all up - but most obviously it doesn't enough. So I will cater also for that hole, when it comes to the body work on my 150.
I also had a stupid idea watching you: I really dislike the hole for the screw in the running light. It came to me to turn it up side down and fix it from beneath and lead load the upper hole and not weld - for easy restore originality if issue for anyone after me. What do you think?
Great machining job. Here we also get another design of the rear seal, which is not split. but runs on the outside or the crank shaft flange. it also collects the oil and returns it. You also keep the rope and you don't machine the crank shaft. Theoretically it can be retrofitted without dismantling the engine. There are some advantages and disadvantages in each design. I don't trust the split oil seal fully, on the other hand i really don't like the rope seal. Maybe the old Asbestos seals were simply better in doin there job.
Also, I had once an engine ice blasted inside out. The inside paint did come off and we had to reapply, as some old chap told me the red paint had the purpose to seal the engine block for oil leakage. Some of the castings did have issues of being not one hundred percent oil tight, as the casting had pores. I did not want to find your the hard way he was right.
The ARP-Screws are great. I have come across a method to determine the stretch of the con rod bolts with a gauge. A guy building racing engines told me he does this all the time, not only to ensure the correct setting, but also to keep deforming of the journal and clearance in check.
Thanks for sharing!
Great vid as always...
Do yhe guys from Jetstream have their own channel?! if not... you should tell them to do so....
I checked, they do have a channel but it has two videos on it from ages ago, I left a comment that they should revive their channel, it would be great content. Perhaps if more people leave an encouraging comment they might give us another great channel to watch.
@@kittonsmitton Thank you Alistair. you are absolutely right. they need a huge "thumb up"! I mean when you see the "content" of their garage.... OMG! there are Gems to be admired there... for hours!!!
Was my dream car as a yougster, but in my budget, and still isn't. Looks like Jason has welded once or twice before. Great job on a great car. I always heard Lucus electrics were pretty bad??
Great work as usual and puts me to shame with my hack.
I would make one comment. I fitted new springs years ago and bought Wefco leather spring gaiters. You wrap the springs with oily grease and rag beforehand. I checked them years later and they were like new. Stops grit and rust happening between the leaves.
I think you will find you have the red tell tail indicators are the wrong way around, the short side should face the driver so that it indicates to the driver that the light is on, the Lucas word should face the road.
I reference an unrestored XK150S Roadster for this build often. It still has it's original indicators like you see in the video. Maybe both cars are wrong?
@@RichardMichaelOwen I know this subject has always been a bone of contention by restorers I have researched it, plus like you I have worked in a Jaguar restoration shop, we always referenced original photo's when the cars came out of the factory and the question has been asked of the JEC in the UK many times,obviously you will have to do what you think is correct, but I would strongly suggest you try to look at some photos of vehicles as they came out of the factory, I do not think the XK150 would be different to other cars.
@@jagvette1 here is my example car, 57,000 miles, two owner car. The faded indicators look like the originals bringatrailer.com/listing/1959-jaguar-xk150s-roadster-4/
Hi owen nice job.Is forged cranshaft special to the early cars.
The headlight spear is misaligned with the collar
“Welcome to episode 9”, title says EP10.
fixed thanks