If you mess these up, they stick out like a sore thumb! Here are some tricks and tips to make these look straight and not crack! Patreon: www.patreon.co...
Ben, I always enjoy your videos. As 63 year old, I had to smile seeing you jump up and down off the counter top. I remember a time when I used to jump up and down like that too. It has been many years. Keep up the high energy videos. 😀
As my garage taping finished I found myself re-doing sections where I had started. Techniques that I had learned raised my standards🤘🤣 Made more work, but after paint it'll be worth it.
Yeah the worst thing about about drywall is that it's a bit hard to know what's important when you start out. And the good thing about drywall is you can always just scrape/sand/bludgeon it off and do it again! Or not, quit looking at my walls!!
Complete gutting and reno of our 1921 kitchen...plastering is by far the hardest part of the job ...your quality of work is a real art..we have new found respect for your craft..Thanks for all your videos
always like information you provide in a no bs way. Maybe i can provide a little cheat.. i pinch a # 10 wire in the bead to help line up the beads . also in a long run like that i liked to put the first corner in the center of the "run", it makes for two junctions but with the wire pinched in there not really terrible difficult.. (Also seems putting the factory ends together makes it a little easier) Its less discernable with the junctions toward the ends rather than the middle if slightly off... pedestrians probably wont pick it up but you seem the type that insists to stay with professionalism
Thank you very much for all tips you provide on your vids. After so many drywallers flaked on me I decided to check how to board and tape my small bathroom myself. Thanks to your vids I was able to do a great job. It took me three times longer than hiring someone but all looks very good after all. Thanks again man. I really appreciate it. Cheers from Edmonton AB.
So, in a nutshell, you butt the second piece against the corner, cut it 2 mm short, reverse the stick, load it with mud and install. Partially wipe them down so there is ability to adjust. Align the bead and wipe tight. Apply four inches of tape 1/8 inch back from the bead, on each side, so it will be hidden by the fill.
I always like your videos man .I always take something from them .if your interested I always like to put the cut end of the bead to the wall, kinda a factory edge to factory edge type of thing when you can that is .
When you paused at 7:15 i was waiting for the "just joking guys, of course I'm gonna flip this piece " 🤣 Love your videos mate and your attitude. Keep em coming 💪
You do good work Ben,as a drywaller, my work looks good in the end but im sure it takes me twice as long to do what you do effortlessly. My outside corners look good but for some reason on the job I'm on now my inside corners when I go back for the second side looks like it's dragging something. I thought it was dust in the corners but I've cleaned them out. I'm assuming either my finished side isn't dry or my knife is bent. Not sure but it's killing me
Instead of tape to cover the bead joint , I pull the paper of a scrape of bead , about same length you used , and cover the joint completely. The bead paper is thinner , still strong enough to fix the cracking ,
Okay Ben, I love your work, and you have probably helped many people I'm sure. My only question is...why did you seem to avoid filling that gap like the plague? Especially without any explanation as to why. A hollow behind anything drywall, mud, corner bead, tape, concrete, caulk...my Grandma's corset is only a setup for movement and cracking. Why? I'm not dissing Brother, just not understanding.
Your videos are a tremendous help but I failed miserably on the but joints so I pulled it off before it set and will change to no coat. This way I only have to deal with my own bumpy framing.
Hello, I have an older late 50’s bungalow home that I recently rewired the main floor. In order to get to some tricky location holes needed to be cut to fish up wires. Problem is I have 3/8” plaster over 3/8” drywall type of walls equaling 3/4” thickness. I was wondering if you could make a video how to patch these type of holes with drywall instead of plaster
I generally try to keep the corners not having the recess for the joint, mainly because I prefer the metal corner edges which I can do long runs and get very clean edges it's important though to pay careful attention to the joints of the beads take time to line them up perfect and it will make a perfect corner, however wavy corners can make you fight the metal ones.
I used ultraflex 450 in my basement and loved it for long runs like this. One continuous piece 30 feet long is amazing. Have you used it before? What’s your verdict? Only downside so far to me seems to be cost.
He used this kind of product once, on inside corners, without reading the instructions or trying to figure the differences between it and paper tape and unsurprisingly didn't find it to be as good to apply. It was essentially, "I find this thing that I have tried to use for an hour not as easy as the thing that I have spent over 10 years mastering". I recommend everyone who doesn't have the inside corners tools he does to use a product like it (I have used strait flex and perfect 90) as it makes it muuuch easier and gives you a better result without the risk of ripping/cutting through the middle like a do-it-yourself inevitably will. I haven't used it for outside corners due to the fact that I want the impact resistance of metal and the fact that it is harder to get something as straight on imperfect edge with this vs metal. Of course for something like this, where it is in the garage but no around where it is likely to ever take an impact, the product could be good.
@@kgphoto I've not seen any objective test nor tried them side by side with real-world scenarios so I can't say with authority. My assumption is based on having used this type of product (not that specific one) on inside corners and metal on outside. The 'no-coat' and similar are thin plastic strips with paper cover. They effectively have no impact resistance. The only value they might provide as that they, just being flexible plastic, may not permanently deform itself like metal if it takes a major sharp hit but all the impact force goes into the drywall so you could deform because of damage there (you hit a piece of metal corner bead hard enough to deform it, you are going to be damaging the drywall with this without question). Metal takes a ton of household abuse without issue and I can't see this handling light life abuse as well, it thin piece of plastic with paper cover (but again, I've not tested).
@@curtisbme They used to hit both with a piece of 1x2 and the No-coat held up better. There was also a test run with a pendulum weight against various corner beads and again, No-Coat faired well. I expect that could be found in their website. By the way it is not a "thin" piece of plastic, especially in the 450 version. Yes, the Leveline product is thinner but it is intended for inside corners only. I prefer No-Coat to traditional Strait-Flex products.
I've watched every one of your corner bead videos and the one thing you don't mention on any of them is how long to let it set before you can apply the next mud layer.
I did this in my build but mucked it up and ended up with a noticeable bump. The bead is also a bit under filled but I didn’t really know how badly it would show until I painted it and then I couldn’t be bothered redoing it. It’s noticeable but not hugely. I can live with it
Any videos on muddying walls where they meet a Durock corner fireplace wall? Do I tape even though the Schluter edging/ tiles cover the joint at the 45?
Hello Ben, Thanks for all the videos. I've got a question related to inside corners. I've got to make a partition in a room, the walls are masonry with a pretty flat surface finish. The wall I'm placing is drywall, of course, and it will only have a couple of really light and small shelves attached later. But what should I do with the inside corners, flat taping them or is it ok to tape them as regular inside corners? I'm not sure if to treat them as different materials or all part of the same wall. Hope you get this. And thanks again.
Great video. Any additional tips for if I'm doing this with bullnose (rounded) corners? I'm doing a nearly identical stretch on a ceiling boxout with tape faced bullnose corner. There's a lot more surface area to crack or show misalignment with a bullnose corner than there is with square.
Ah, shit :/ Found that one of yours too late. I had to coat a similar drywall corner, but then i found "AquaBead Flex", which i don't know if it's available in Canada/US, but it's a 25 meter roll of flexible PVC corner bead, which is covered with starch on the wall-side. Just spray it with water and apply it some minutes later. I did the 6 meter (outside) corner with my brother in law, while he insisted to do the other 3 meter piece all alone, which turned into a nightmare. He refused to use a knife and just coated the whole thing with the trowel. I had to sand this down for hours and evening it out in multiple passes, impossible to get a wonderful straight edge. At least the surrounding surfaces were flat in the end. However, i can use the info in your video for the window opening's corner beads, which will be done in aluminium and connected in a few places to save on material. Thanks again, Ben :)
Dude the tips in this vid will be game changers for me. Thank you so much for the outstanding content that you provide on the reg. I never thought to check my bead with a straight edge - nice! Vancouver Carpenter is the channel to follow for solid field tips
Hi Ben, I am in the process of planning on taping and mudding my home. I recently noticed that Home Depot carries an inside corner bead similar to the outer corner bead. Have you ever used these? Do you think you could do a video on them? They seem like a cool idea, but perhaps too good to be true. Thanks from fan!
so, my situation is I'm adding a bump out to one end of and existing soffit over a new (deeper) pantry cupboard. Do I cut the existing corner bead back away from that new section a bit (3"-6"?) to join the new corner bead to the old or join it at the inside corner?
Dang it! 1st like 2nd comment :-) like icing!! I’m A baker amd the first thing that drew me to handling my own dry way was “it’s just like cake!! I can do this!!” :-)
Ok… wow, Ben, you need to give these idiots down here a lesson on corner bead! (Truth be told? Every aspect of drywall!) I hired a crew to do a job for me, it was just a little too much for me to do atm with all the other projects I have going on. I walk in and these turkeys are nailing metal corner bead on while ignoring the box of paper bead. Apparently they brought their own bead to the party?!? I know I didn’t supply it. So normally nailing on corner bead isn’t a big deal right!? Wait a minute! This is a IIB commercial job. Non combustable construction/aka metal stud! When I pointed it out they got pissy with me. I handed them the paper bead and told them to use it. Now given I’m Irish Canadian I had to walk out before I got sideways. I come back after cooling down a little only to see they have loaded said metal mead with hot mud! Now I need to dig a deep hole to hide the evidence. 🤦♂️
the paper bead is excellent for bulkhead situations as it has a wider width on one side that allows easier coverage of the exposed edge. Less work to install too as no extra tools required.
Construction materials in Canada still use Imperial measurements. Our full conversion to metric was stopped in the early 1980s. So he said the corner bead was 10 feet long because it is.
Unrelated question, but curious to know if you do or don’t add salt to your mud to help make it go off faster. If I want it to kick off fast I mix my bag of mud with warm salt water. I’d love to hear your opinion on that
I think we need more Ben with too much coffee. That was hilarious!
Start of this video is completely hilarious, thank you for leaving that in.
Ben, I always enjoy your videos. As 63 year old, I had to smile seeing you jump up and down off the counter top. I remember a time when I used to jump up and down like that too. It has been many years. Keep up the high energy videos. 😀
My favorite part was when Ben climbed up there for no reason, classic 🤣
Hi Adriano 👋
Hi Chris!
As my garage taping finished I found myself re-doing sections where I had started. Techniques that I had learned raised my standards🤘🤣
Made more work, but after paint it'll be worth it.
Yeah the worst thing about about drywall is that it's a bit hard to know what's important when you start out. And the good thing about drywall is you can always just scrape/sand/bludgeon it off and do it again! Or not, quit looking at my walls!!
Complete gutting and reno of our 1921 kitchen...plastering is by far the hardest part of the job ...your quality of work is a real art..we have new found respect for your craft..Thanks for all your videos
Any chance for a shirt that says "feather those edges"? Great stuff you got, you're the man!
I’d buy that shirt! It would go so well with Ben’s voice in my head lol!
So would I 😎
The taping over the joint 1/8 1/4 behind the nose is genius
always like information you provide in a no bs way. Maybe i can provide a little cheat.. i pinch a # 10 wire in the bead to help line up the beads . also in a long run like that i liked to put the first corner in the center of the "run", it makes for two junctions but with the wire pinched in there not really terrible difficult.. (Also seems putting the factory ends together makes it a little easier) Its less discernable with the junctions toward the ends rather than the middle if slightly off... pedestrians probably wont pick it up but you seem the type that insists to stay with professionalism
Using a piece of wire as a alignment guide is genius.
You are a fantastic teacher. Thanks for letting us see it all-- even when you goof something up. Keep it real!
Been watching you for years now. Love your technique and how you’re able to think outside the box. Keep up the great work.
Your upload schedule is Godlike. Ben, you are a beast
Thank you very much for all tips you provide on your vids. After so many drywallers flaked on me I decided to check how to board and tape my small bathroom myself. Thanks to your vids I was able to do a great job. It took me three times longer than hiring someone but all looks very good after all. Thanks again man. I really appreciate it. Cheers from Edmonton AB.
Adriano's camera work also feels a little caffeinated 😅 you guys ever consider using a stabilizer? Would be really nice for videos like this
There are only 2 channels I watch regularly for drywall tips and this is easily the best one (the other one is good but a bit more generalised)
Basic rule of thumb in construction in general... Factory edge to factory edge... Cut edge to cut edge... All in fun
Chamfered and pre-filled the like button before the video started. Feathered it after I finished. 👍
How is this comment not at the top
Vancouver carpenter be smoking the Vancouver kush….😂😂😂
So, in a nutshell, you butt the second piece against the corner, cut it 2 mm short, reverse the stick, load it with mud and install. Partially wipe them down so there is ability to adjust. Align the bead and wipe tight. Apply four inches of tape 1/8 inch back from the bead, on each side, so it will be hidden by the fill.
Yeah, but don’t butt the cut edge up to the factory edge. Factory >< Factory.
@@monkeygraborange yep, that is why I said, "Reverse the stick." 🙂
@@kgphoto duh... sorry!
@@monkeygraborange LOL No worries.
I always like your videos man .I always take something from them .if your interested I always like to put the cut end of the bead to the wall, kinda a factory edge to factory edge type of thing when you can that is .
Super good video Ben!! Assume it’s pretty much the same process for round bead and will give it a go!
When you paused at 7:15 i was waiting for the "just joking guys, of course I'm gonna flip this piece " 🤣
Love your videos mate and your attitude. Keep em coming 💪
Shocked you didnt use the cut end for the butt! Must've been the coffee 😂 excellent work Ben, excellent video. Thanks for the lesson!
I like to fiba fuse where the corner beads meet to prevent any cracks down the road
Just in time for a 14' outside corner bead on a header. Thanks Ben!
I love you! Thank you soo much for the content. I have been searching for this amd should've just dug in your Playlist.
Answers all of my long run bead questions. Great stuff. Thanks.
It's gonna look even better from my house 🤣 that's a new one
Love the video and this has nothing to do with your drywalling ,but who's still using BNC connectors for cameras lol
That is my favorite saying. I use it 10X a day. "Looks fine from my house".
Or, you'll never see that (imperfection) driving by at 60 looking the other way.
Perfect timing! I have to do this this week. Thank you!!
How to make stuff NOT look like garbage! The best skills and techniques learned here!!! Ha ha ha
This guy is the best at muddying. An expert
Did you see the way he performed that magic trick pulled that 4 inch knife right out of his butt😂
You do good work Ben,as a drywaller, my work looks good in the end but im sure it takes me twice as long to do what you do effortlessly. My outside corners look good but for some reason on the job I'm on now my inside corners when I go back for the second side looks like it's dragging something. I thought it was dust in the corners but I've cleaned them out. I'm assuming either my finished side isn't dry or my knife is bent. Not sure but it's killing me
That thumbnail...my first thought was “that’s exactly what my corner repairs feel like”
Instead of tape to cover the bead joint , I pull the paper of a scrape of bead , about same length you used , and cover the joint completely. The bead paper is thinner , still strong enough to fix the cracking ,
Nice job explaining that.
Okay Ben, I love your work, and you have probably helped many people I'm sure. My only question is...why did you seem to avoid filling that gap like the plague? Especially without any explanation as to why. A hollow behind anything drywall, mud, corner bead, tape, concrete, caulk...my Grandma's corset is only a setup for movement and cracking. Why? I'm not dissing Brother, just not understanding.
Your videos are a tremendous help but I failed miserably on the but joints so I pulled it off before it set and will change to no coat. This way I only have to deal with my own bumpy framing.
I admit, I love these videos.
I remember being able to jump off and on staging like that... a looooong time ago!
and that is why my ankles, knees and hips hate me!!!
Great video! 👍🏼👍🏼
It seems using plastic or metal corner bead that is nailed on is more fool proof for the DIYer who seldom tape & bed.
Very Good Teacher. Thank U
Ben, what do you do with your excess mud, and water used to clean your tools? Tip it on the garden?
Hello, I have an older late 50’s bungalow home that I recently rewired the main floor. In order to get to some tricky location holes needed to be cut to fish up wires. Problem is I have 3/8” plaster over 3/8” drywall type of walls equaling 3/4” thickness. I was wondering if you could make a video how to patch these type of holes with drywall instead of plaster
I love your videos man
One of your best videos, that was great.
Link to camera man's stuff still absent it seems ;)
I'm right here :)
Thumbs up Ben 👍.
Thanks for the video from Davenport Iowa
I generally try to keep the corners not having the recess for the joint, mainly because I prefer the metal corner edges which I can do long runs and get very clean edges it's important though to pay careful attention to the joints of the beads take time to line them up perfect and it will make a perfect corner, however wavy corners can make you fight the metal ones.
I agree. If u have no room to mud it makes it harder to hide the bead also the mud will end up over hanging the corner bead and will chop easily
Pretty good for the screening room. Should have a miniature bar, too, for popcorn of course
Humble human, nice
Question, what are ur thoughts on using spray adhesive?
I used ultraflex 450 in my basement and loved it for long runs like this. One continuous piece 30 feet long is amazing. Have you used it before? What’s your verdict? Only downside so far to me seems to be cost.
If it gets hit with furniture it sometimes cracks. Its better to have metal behind but still works well.
He used this kind of product once, on inside corners, without reading the instructions or trying to figure the differences between it and paper tape and unsurprisingly didn't find it to be as good to apply. It was essentially, "I find this thing that I have tried to use for an hour not as easy as the thing that I have spent over 10 years mastering".
I recommend everyone who doesn't have the inside corners tools he does to use a product like it (I have used strait flex and perfect 90) as it makes it muuuch easier and gives you a better result without the risk of ripping/cutting through the middle like a do-it-yourself inevitably will.
I haven't used it for outside corners due to the fact that I want the impact resistance of metal and the fact that it is harder to get something as straight on imperfect edge with this vs metal. Of course for something like this, where it is in the garage but no around where it is likely to ever take an impact, the product could be good.
@@curtisbme Doesn't No-Coat have greater impact resistance than metal ? I mean, it doesn't dent or crack along the seam as easily.
@@kgphoto I've not seen any objective test nor tried them side by side with real-world scenarios so I can't say with authority. My assumption is based on having used this type of product (not that specific one) on inside corners and metal on outside. The 'no-coat' and similar are thin plastic strips with paper cover. They effectively have no impact resistance. The only value they might provide as that they, just being flexible plastic, may not permanently deform itself like metal if it takes a major sharp hit but all the impact force goes into the drywall so you could deform because of damage there (you hit a piece of metal corner bead hard enough to deform it, you are going to be damaging the drywall with this without question). Metal takes a ton of household abuse without issue and I can't see this handling light life abuse as well, it thin piece of plastic with paper cover (but again, I've not tested).
@@curtisbme They used to hit both with a piece of 1x2 and the No-coat held up better. There was also a test run with a pendulum weight against various corner beads and again, No-Coat faired well. I expect that could be found in their website.
By the way it is not a "thin" piece of plastic, especially in the 450 version. Yes, the Leveline product is thinner but it is intended for inside corners only. I prefer No-Coat to traditional Strait-Flex products.
Is this the same technique you would use at the connection of a vertical and horizontal corner bead?
I wonder if it would work better if you removed some metal from one bead and an equal amount of tape from the other to mesh the two together?
Next time put the factory edged together and put the cut end in the corner
U should get you cameraman to also talk in the vid. Just a thought ☝🏽🤙🏽🙏🏽
All the best
He's like Jamie on Rogan. No need for talking
I've watched every one of your corner bead videos and the one thing you don't mention on any of them is how long to let it set before you can apply the next mud layer.
I did this in my build but mucked it up and ended up with a noticeable bump. The bead is also a bit under filled but I didn’t really know how badly it would show until I painted it and then I couldn’t be bothered redoing it. It’s noticeable but not hugely. I can live with it
Looks like someone feathered those edges on your head. 👌👌👌
Aren’t you supposed to secure in the corner bead with nails,staples, or screws?or does the mud do it’s magic
If you try a right cut aviation snips that problem with the corner bead bending will disappear.
I’m assuming you probably need the same material. Metal to metal. Or vinyl to vinyl correct?
Any videos on muddying walls where they meet a Durock corner fireplace wall? Do I tape even though the Schluter edging/ tiles cover the joint at the 45?
Hello Ben, Thanks for all the videos. I've got a question related to inside corners.
I've got to make a partition in a room, the walls are masonry with a pretty flat surface finish.
The wall I'm placing is drywall, of course, and it will only have a couple of really light and small shelves attached later.
But what should I do with the inside corners, flat taping them or is it ok to tape them as regular inside corners?
I'm not sure if to treat them as different materials or all part of the same wall.
Hope you get this. And thanks again.
Great video. Any additional tips for if I'm doing this with bullnose (rounded) corners? I'm doing a nearly identical stretch on a ceiling boxout with tape faced bullnose corner. There's a lot more surface area to crack or show misalignment with a bullnose corner than there is with square.
Ah, shit :/ Found that one of yours too late. I had to coat a similar drywall corner, but then i found "AquaBead Flex", which i don't know if it's available in Canada/US, but it's a 25 meter roll of flexible PVC corner bead, which is covered with starch on the wall-side. Just spray it with water and apply it some minutes later. I did the 6 meter (outside) corner with my brother in law, while he insisted to do the other 3 meter piece all alone, which turned into a nightmare. He refused to use a knife and just coated the whole thing with the trowel. I had to sand this down for hours and evening it out in multiple passes, impossible to get a wonderful straight edge. At least the surrounding surfaces were flat in the end.
However, i can use the info in your video for the window opening's corner beads, which will be done in aluminium and connected in a few places to save on material. Thanks again, Ben :)
Dude the tips in this vid will be game changers for me. Thank you so much for the outstanding content that you provide on the reg. I never thought to check my bead with a straight edge - nice!
Vancouver Carpenter is the channel to follow for solid field tips
Another timely video from Vancouver (almost as nice as Vancouver Island) Carpenter. How'd you know this was my current challenge?
The local coffee shop has a sign that says "Caffeine: Do more stupid things faster."
“Do faster things stupider!”
Hi Ben, I am in the process of planning on taping and mudding my home. I recently noticed that Home Depot carries an inside corner bead similar to the outer corner bead. Have you ever used these? Do you think you could do a video on them? They seem like a cool idea, but perhaps too good to be true. Thanks from fan!
Wish this was uploaded 2 months back. I am now almost done with the basement finishing
Ok Garage or not, shouldn't it be spot on 👍
Hey, can you please tell me what brand of putty knife is the best. Better yet, the two to three best ones. Thanks.
Do you always put your beads on like that in every bulkhead you do
him hurting my knee's at 14:45
Now do a kick flip.🛹
What about with metal beads? Is there anything different that needs to be done?
so, my situation is I'm adding a bump out to one end of and existing soffit over a new (deeper) pantry cupboard. Do I cut the existing corner bead back away from that new section a bit (3"-6"?) to join the new corner bead to the old or join it at the inside corner?
Does the same thing apply to metal corner bead ?
Dang it! 1st like 2nd comment :-) like icing!! I’m
A baker amd the first thing that drew me to handling my own dry way was “it’s just like cake!! I can do this!!” :-)
Ok… wow, Ben, you need to give these idiots down here a lesson on corner bead! (Truth be told? Every aspect of drywall!)
I hired a crew to do a job for me, it was just a little too much for me to do atm with all the other projects I have going on. I walk in and these turkeys are nailing metal corner bead on while ignoring the box of paper bead. Apparently they brought their own bead to the party?!? I know I didn’t supply it. So normally nailing on corner bead isn’t a big deal right!? Wait a minute! This is a IIB commercial job. Non combustable construction/aka metal stud! When I pointed it out they got pissy with me. I handed them the paper bead and told them to use it. Now given I’m Irish Canadian I had to walk out before I got sideways. I come back after cooling down a little only to see they have loaded said metal mead with hot mud!
Now I need to dig a deep hole to hide the evidence. 🤦♂️
If you mess up a bit you can file it so the joint is 100% perfect.
Do you have a video where you tie in radius cornerbead existing to new?
Is this a kitchen fitted in a garage‽
What kind of corner bead is that?! I've never seen it w paper over it only metal or plastic
Why don't you use metal bead and clinch on tool.way faster and straighter.
the paper bead is excellent for bulkhead situations as it has a wider width on one side that allows easier coverage of the exposed edge. Less work to install too as no extra tools required.
All ya can do is the best ya can do 🤠👍
Can you shame other bad drywallers or home improvement DIYers?
Is coffee a euphemism for weed?
Thx
Didn’t find this video until I finished mine and forgot the middle tape lol. Have a tiny crack
You’ve been speaking lengths in US Standard lately. Are most of us watching your videos from the US?
Construction materials in Canada still use Imperial measurements. Our full conversion to metric was stopped in the early 1980s. So he said the corner bead was 10 feet long because it is.
I like using medal cornerbead no need for coumpond behind it
Unrelated question, but curious to know if you do or don’t add salt to your mud to help make it go off faster.
If I want it to kick off fast I mix my bag of mud with warm salt water. I’d love to hear your opinion on that
I had a person want me to spray glue on then staple corner bead down any thoughts?I did it because that's what they wanted.
was it plastic bead as that is the only way I know of installing it?
@@andrewcarr2431 paper