What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
You don't know what it means to some of us, that we get to spend just a little bit of time with you, via these videos. Your steady and constant positive attitude and work ethic are a boon to my soul. It's weird I suppose, but thank you.
I was on a custom home job some 15 years ago and the general hired some guys to install hardi siding on a detached garage. After awhile he came over to see how things were going and all hell broke loose. They didn't nail the siding to the studs, from inside the garage you could see all the nails from the siding. They said it was fine. He made them take down the 4 or 5 rows and nail into the studs and they paid for the siding because it had nail holes every 8 inches. It's a wonder he didn't kick them off the job. The quality of help makes you wonder how things are built.
I may have a solution for those switches in your truck's crane control constantly burning out. You might want to ask your son about this, but the idea is to use contactors to do the actual high-current switching, and use the switches in the hand control as just low-current signals that pull in the contactors (might still be around an amp for a big enough contactor, but that means the switches last easily 10x as long if the contacts are burning out on them currently like I think they are). The idea is that you use the switches in the hand control to signal what direction the relay goes, rather than just directly controlling the motors. The contactors will be the things doing the actual switching of the high currents, in a box full of relays and probably a few diodes too. To your son, this will probably be some relatively "crude" controls, but it'll get the job done. First off, make sure you have a fuse protecting the wires, we ARE entering a domain where if the wrong two contactors pull in at the same time, it creates a dead short without even getting the motor being controlled involved. If you have contactors that are double-pole, single-throw, normally-open, that's ideal. For controlling 2 motors in 2 directions, you'll need 4 of those. If all you have is single-pole contactors, you'll need twice as many, because we need to control both the positive and the negative wire of each motor. If your son has ever heard of a "DC motor H-bridge" type of circuit, that's basically what we're making here, but with relays instead of transistors. The way you control the contactors is that for each motor, you have an incoming feed that can be off, normal polarity 12v, or reverse polarity 12v, that's how you have the switches in the hand control set up right now and that's something I can work with just fine for the task at hand. What I'm saying is that you don't need to change how the hand control is wired for this, that's what it's already doing with the wires that go to the motors right now. Instead of those wires going to the motors, they'll be feeding power to the coils of the contactors. To reduce duplication of description, let's talk about only one motor, the control setup for the other motor will be identical. Since all the contactors I can find online that have a high enough current rating are of the single-pole, single-throw, normally-open type, you'll need a total of 4 contactors per motor that you want to be able to have turn both directions (or not turn at all). One pair of contactors will supply high current 12v to the motor in "normal" polarity, making it spin one way, and the other pair of contactors will supply high current 12v to the motor in reversed polarity, making it spin the other way. Now because the control signal can be off, normal polarity, or reverse polarity, we need some way to force only one pair of contactors to pull in at a time when you push a direction on that hand control. That's not hard to do at all, there's even an electronic component specifically for this task. The thing you need is a diode, because diodes are just "check valves" but for electrons instead of water or gases. By having one pair of contactors get current thru a pair of diodes that only let thru current of one polarity, and the other pair of contactors get current thru a pair of diodes that only let current thru of the opposite polarity, you force the electricity being supplied to the contactor coils to only be able to go to one pair of contactors for a given polarity of supplied current. If you set it up and it's working the opposite way from what you want it to, all you need to do is switch the polarity of the power going to the contactor coils, before the diodes get involved (or flip the polarity of the diodes, whichever is easier). For which diode to use, I'd suggest a 5A sustained forward current 80V max reverse voltage Shottkey diode, with the "thru-hole" mounting type so you get a pair of bare leads to work with that are easy to solder wires to and then shrink wrap over (this prevents moisture ingress and provides electrical insulation). Since the coil of even a small relay is enough of an inductor (on purpose) to create a significant inductive kick-back, another diode should be placed across the coil terminals of each contactor to give the inductive spike a place to go without causing harm, and you can use the same diodes as you used for the "check valve" purpose described above. Just make sure to put them across the coils so that when there is power to the contactor, the inductive kickback prevention diode will not conduct current, or else you'll probably smoke both diodes. By putting those inductive kickback prevention diodes in, you also prevent the contacts of the switches in the hand control from burning out nearly as quickly as they would without those protection diodes. Also, like I said, if all this is going right over your head, you might want to bring this idea to your son the electrician, they would probably understand it relatively quickly if I've described it as well as I think I have. EDIT: I now have a KiCad schematic that represents the basic idea of this concept, so IMO it shouldn't be that hard to figure out if I can do it. The reason I say if I can do it anyone can, is that I'm an auto mechanic by trade, but before that I went to and dropped out of college, with the goal of becoming an electrical engineer. I still have electronics as a hobby of mine, and every now and again I can use that knowledge to make something useful for myself or someone else. The schematic is available upon request, provided I can find somewhere on the internet to host it that won't charge me money for the privilege.
Those Gecko Gauges are worth every penny they cost! I used to run siding with the help of a solo nail to hold one end! I affectionately named him "Mr. Nailson".
Brilliant work, you'd never get away with that health and safety wise (harness etc no open space to easily fall into)working at height in Britain! Common sense and experience wins here. Thanks for the video keep safe!
I love watching your videos. I do a fair amount of exterior finishing. I pride myself on my flashing details. To make those small brake bends on the ends of any type of cap flashing we use a pair of duck bill pliers made by malco. It’s more of a tin knocker tool but heck I think a great carpenter like yourself would be very qualified. Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. I wish I could work beside you. Bless you
I love that you seem to be an expert at nearly all things; but you still know when something is too big for you and are able to get some help from your friends.
When bending metal its called a brake because of an old English verb breken, which means to bend or deflect. I was in a racecar fab shop often when I was young and the finger brake just mesmerized me with all the levers and things to fiddle with.
Small blocks of wood as a brake would aid neatly turning down the end tabs on your Z-channel drip caps. Buy some flanging pliers and true lefts and rights.I used to use an S-hook made of aluminum coil stock to temporarily hold up the other end of long pieces of lap siding.
I sided my new shop with LP, and followed the manufacturer's instructions to the letter on the gaps. I hired someone to do the painting, and did I ever get an ear full from him. He thought it was just terrible to do that, and had me go buy two cases of caulk. He used less than half. I met you at Good of the Land in Texas back pre-Covid. It's good to finally have gotten back to something like normal.
So you let the painter talk you out of installing according to the manufacturer’s requirements? Is the painter going to cover you if you need to make a warranty claim down the road?
@@donbushek733 I was thinking the same thing. Smartside and Hardie are great products but unless you're doing it yourself you really have to shop around to find an installer that actually does it to spec with either of them, which of course conveniently lets both companies get out of a lot of warranty claims. And good luck collecting from the contractor that screwed it up!
Scott, We enjoy your videos. You can extend the life of your switches indefinitely by installing flyback diodes across the relay/solenoid coils. High voltages are propagated when the coil field collapses and causes arcing (think ignition coil). The diodes short the back emf and prevent that arcing.
Great to be in shape and able to do a bit and know how to work. Take your time make it last. I look back....iam 47.....to plan and enjoy what a man would be at that is great ole therphy
One trick I figured out for handling Hardie siding by myself. I got an 8 foot by 1 inch aluminum square tube and cut off one of the sides to form a u-channel. I'd set the edge of the 12 foot long Hardie siding into the channel and this gave me enough rigidity to be able to easily move and set the piece onto the Gecko supports.
your ability to clamber around at 20+ feet in the air amazes me. I learned very quickly when I was framing houses that I would be best as the cut man, planted firmly on the ground :D
your last few words where the main part in this build the joy of being able to do this for your children / family . i think as builders we gain our biggest reward from doing our best for the people in our liveswhere no money /compentation is exchanged .i get the most enjoyment from helping others where it is out of there reach to employe as our useal clients do the wright person for that job after all what good is all the experence etc if you cant give it freely
Up here in British Columbia, we put "end dams" on the ends of our flashing over exterior door and window casings- instead of turning the ends downward, we turn them upwards. The flashing extends 1/2" or so past the end of the casing. This keeps water away from touching the end grains of horizontal trim.
Spraying the primer sounds like a swell idea until you start doing it and paint is everywhere. What I do is drill a hole in the lid of an appropriate size container, stick the handle of a foam brush through it, and now I have a brush and container that can be closed. I agree 100% that the requirement to seal any cuts on the LP makes one of the nicest premium siding materials to work with a real pain - ESPECIALLY working alone. Having someone who can start cutting and sealing edges while you measure and nail 'em is such a game changer.
I really enjoy your videos. I am a little older than you and like you I have completed a lot of projects by myself. I am a retired welder but with the help of RUclips and the skills God has given me I have spent many satisfying hours working for myself..Thank you for sharing your many years of knoledge
Scott - if your contact switches go bad, just add a $5 automotive relay to it to control the power. Your nerd son in law should be able to handle it for you. Doesn't need to carry any power to the remote, just a tiny bit of signal. Could replace it with wire as thin as a headphone cable if you wanted after that, zero concern for amp draw, thickness would only be about durability at that point. Maybe toss a $1 diode across the relay to snuff the inductive kick of the motor shutting off and sparking the leads.
I do my drip caps opposite to you. Here's an idea. Make the first notch you show, but cut it out completely. Make the size of the notch equal to the distance you want the siding held off the flashing. Get a hand seamer, and grasp the horizontal portion of the drip cap. The tip of the seamer should be all the way on the notch you cut, and the edge should be about 1/4" from the inside corner. Bend up instead of down. The metal will fold in the corner (flatten that with the seamer). Now water that runs onto the drip cap cannot run off the side, and you have a nice shelf on each corner to rest your siding (or to ensure it doesn't go too low).
yes. direct the water out and away from that typically bad water penetration point. The entire purpose of the cap is to do that. Send the water out and away. I also put the moisture barrier on top of the metal cap. doors and windows. think of it like roofing. I also caulk each course where it meets vertical trim, NOT on seams in the field (Hardy Plank standards)
I'm very much looking forward to getting back to this type of good work, as my current good work is teaching high school overseas. Building up young people has its' own rewards, but constructing of your fashion has its' own appeals. So, for now it is sketching designs, living frugally, and enjoying your videos.
In my neck of the woods, we use strapping behind most siding--including L+P--to create an air space. (Vinyl siding is an exception as it creates its own air space.)
Thanks for this and your words of wisdom and humor. Just about to venture out for a double bathroom remodel for my son and his family. There will be a few cuts and bruises, but it's all worth it to help our kids move onward and upward.
you want the bottom of your greenspan (water resistive barrier) to go over the top of the drip cap - ie shingle lap the water management system. water running down the greenspan will go behind the top of the drip cap because of the lapping order. drip cap won't drip anything as installed
I'm surprised you didn't spray the paint. I don't own a sprayer myself, and regret that every time I put paint up any other way because folks I know that have them swear by them.
I had LP Smart Side put on my house. We primed the back and all cut edges. The mistake I made was not using primer that was the same color as the already colored Smart Side. After two summers it still looks fantastic.
I love it absolutely! Your an inspiration to me for sure and I appreciate your efforts to share your activities with us regular folks. Yup your famous bud!
Looks great, Scott ! I'm doing some siding work right now as well. Fortunately I bought a set of "power pole" electric pump jacks about ten or twelve years ago when I was siding a big , tall house on a steep hill and with no side yard space so I couldn't set up ladders. Going up and down is so much easier. So loading the materials is a breeze. They were pricey , but what a labor saver for a solo tradesman
The paint looks great and yeah, spray the paint on when it’s on the ground. You’ll have to do touchups but the results will be better and it’s safer. Nice color!
Great job. I couldnt help but think about how i used to side houses and what a benefit an aerial lift was, i could take siding right up with me and side, soffit, and fascia a gable end nearly any house in a day by myself.
Hi, Scott! I see that you have a Trojan miter saw stand! I used one for a few years with one of my employers, one of the best things about it was the wheels. I don't believe they make it anymore. I do have a few sets of their saw horses which are fantastic. Great Oregon-made products.
Do you or anyone reading this have an opinion on whether or not one needs put battens external to sarking so as to cause an airgap between the sarking and shiplapped timber boards or timber weatherboard cladding on a timber framed house? In the video I notice there is no gap... but the wisdom at the timber yard that I buy from say that it is advisable. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks. GREAT videos by the way.
I caulk the top of the windows and doors with metal drip edge just because unless you make a caulk dam behind the siding at the ends of the metal flashing water could run horizontally down the flashing and find it’s way behind the siding.
Do you do any work on a siding brake? I used to make all kinds of parts on one from J-channels to Facia, Brick molding ect. I really enjoyed doing it. Too bad I fell off a ladder a year ago breaking my ankle and tearing the heck out of my shoulder... The shoulder (rotator cup and labrum) is doing pretty good but my ankle I'm pretty sure is going to give me pain for the rest of my life... watching these videos remind me of actually doing the work. Thank You
If you'd like, I can find a waterproof switch that meets the amperage requirements for your crane. I make electrical housings for industrial electronics for a living.
You should use a contactor for the crane. The momentary switch sends a signal to the contactor, and the contactor does all the hard work. It's an easy job to do. Your son in law should know how. This way you could use a slimmer cable for the control box. If you want to be extra fancy, it's just as easy (if now easier) to wire a remote.
The crane probably has relays (contractors) to handle the high amperage current. Parts store toggle switches are not designed to handle the constant cycling that a crane controls like this gets…. A Mil. Spec toggle switch is, they are not cheap $50 each on McMaster Carr, but they are a one and done answer.
What size nails did you use for this? LP just talks about stud embedment. I suppose they don’t know what thickness sheeting you have and if you have insulation on there too. They say 1-1/2” embedment. That means if I have 5/8 panels, plus 3/8” thickness of the siding means I should have at least 2” nails for this?
What a beautifully done ruclips.net/user/postUgkxYGamVaHfdHiPlAQaLa7zkwR02OKpGYDU ! The instructions and the photographs are brilliant. It is thorough and genuinely informative. Ryan got another winner! No one does it better!
Awesome book that gives you step-by-step photos ruclips.net/user/postUgkxTNB_zFBSnTo_O1PqfVUwgi7ityw0JlKt and directions to make every day project. I can see myself making a few of these projects and giving them as housewarming and holiday gifts!
You don't know what it means to some of us, that we get to spend just a little bit of time with you, via these videos. Your steady and constant positive attitude and work ethic are a boon to my soul. It's weird I suppose, but thank you.
well said.
Exactly!
Yes! Blessed!
You are not alone with those feelings. Especially given the state of our world today.
This comment is a little too glowing
Tell me about that adjustable scaffolding jack. Game changer!
Your side of the mountains is a great proving ground for moisture resistance
I was on a custom home job some 15 years ago and the general hired some guys to install hardi siding on a detached garage. After awhile he came over to see how things were going and all hell broke loose. They didn't nail the siding to the studs, from inside the garage you could see all the nails from the siding. They said it was fine. He made them take down the 4 or 5 rows and nail into the studs and they paid for the siding because it had nail holes every 8 inches. It's a wonder he didn't kick them off the job. The quality of help makes you wonder how things are built.
I may have a solution for those switches in your truck's crane control constantly burning out.
You might want to ask your son about this, but the idea is to use contactors to do the actual high-current switching, and use the switches in the hand control as just low-current signals that pull in the contactors (might still be around an amp for a big enough contactor, but that means the switches last easily 10x as long if the contacts are burning out on them currently like I think they are).
The idea is that you use the switches in the hand control to signal what direction the relay goes, rather than just directly controlling the motors.
The contactors will be the things doing the actual switching of the high currents, in a box full of relays and probably a few diodes too.
To your son, this will probably be some relatively "crude" controls, but it'll get the job done.
First off, make sure you have a fuse protecting the wires, we ARE entering a domain where if the wrong two contactors pull in at the same time, it creates a dead short without even getting the motor being controlled involved.
If you have contactors that are double-pole, single-throw, normally-open, that's ideal. For controlling 2 motors in 2 directions, you'll need 4 of those.
If all you have is single-pole contactors, you'll need twice as many, because we need to control both the positive and the negative wire of each motor. If your son has ever heard of a "DC motor H-bridge" type of circuit, that's basically what we're making here, but with relays instead of transistors.
The way you control the contactors is that for each motor, you have an incoming feed that can be off, normal polarity 12v, or reverse polarity 12v, that's how you have the switches in the hand control set up right now and that's something I can work with just fine for the task at hand.
What I'm saying is that you don't need to change how the hand control is wired for this, that's what it's already doing with the wires that go to the motors right now.
Instead of those wires going to the motors, they'll be feeding power to the coils of the contactors.
To reduce duplication of description, let's talk about only one motor, the control setup for the other motor will be identical.
Since all the contactors I can find online that have a high enough current rating are of the single-pole, single-throw, normally-open type, you'll need a total of 4 contactors per motor that you want to be able to have turn both directions (or not turn at all).
One pair of contactors will supply high current 12v to the motor in "normal" polarity, making it spin one way, and the other pair of contactors will supply high current 12v to the motor in reversed polarity, making it spin the other way.
Now because the control signal can be off, normal polarity, or reverse polarity, we need some way to force only one pair of contactors to pull in at a time when you push a direction on that hand control. That's not hard to do at all, there's even an electronic component specifically for this task.
The thing you need is a diode, because diodes are just "check valves" but for electrons instead of water or gases.
By having one pair of contactors get current thru a pair of diodes that only let thru current of one polarity, and the other pair of contactors get current thru a pair of diodes that only let current thru of the opposite polarity, you force the electricity being supplied to the contactor coils to only be able to go to one pair of contactors for a given polarity of supplied current.
If you set it up and it's working the opposite way from what you want it to, all you need to do is switch the polarity of the power going to the contactor coils, before the diodes get involved (or flip the polarity of the diodes, whichever is easier).
For which diode to use, I'd suggest a 5A sustained forward current 80V max reverse voltage Shottkey diode, with the "thru-hole" mounting type so you get a pair of bare leads to work with that are easy to solder wires to and then shrink wrap over (this prevents moisture ingress and provides electrical insulation).
Since the coil of even a small relay is enough of an inductor (on purpose) to create a significant inductive kick-back, another diode should be placed across the coil terminals of each contactor to give the inductive spike a place to go without causing harm, and you can use the same diodes as you used for the "check valve" purpose described above. Just make sure to put them across the coils so that when there is power to the contactor, the inductive kickback prevention diode will not conduct current, or else you'll probably smoke both diodes. By putting those inductive kickback prevention diodes in, you also prevent the contacts of the switches in the hand control from burning out nearly as quickly as they would without those protection diodes.
Also, like I said, if all this is going right over your head, you might want to bring this idea to your son the electrician, they would probably understand it relatively quickly if I've described it as well as I think I have.
EDIT: I now have a KiCad schematic that represents the basic idea of this concept, so IMO it shouldn't be that hard to figure out if I can do it.
The reason I say if I can do it anyone can, is that I'm an auto mechanic by trade, but before that I went to and dropped out of college, with the goal of becoming an electrical engineer. I still have electronics as a hobby of mine, and every now and again I can use that knowledge to make something useful for myself or someone else.
The schematic is available upon request, provided I can find somewhere on the internet to host it that won't charge me money for the privilege.
Those Gecko Gauges are worth every penny they cost! I used to run siding with the help of a solo nail to hold one end! I affectionately named him "Mr. Nailson".
“I’m convinced that painting is not for me” that put a smile on my face Scott.
Brilliant work, you'd never get away with that health and safety wise (harness etc no open space to easily fall into)working at height in Britain! Common sense and experience wins here. Thanks for the video keep safe!
Always so enjoyable to glean information from Scott! Thanks for making these videos!
I love watching your videos. I do a fair amount of exterior finishing. I pride myself on my flashing details. To make those small brake bends on the ends of any type of cap flashing we use a pair of duck bill pliers made by malco. It’s more of a tin knocker tool but heck I think a great carpenter like yourself would be very qualified.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. I wish I could work beside you. Bless you
Good to see you are willig to show you're struggling too with the big thing getting up the ladder.
I appreciate your closing comment of “keep up the good work.” Or as my grandpa would always say, “give ‘er your all!”
I love that you seem to be an expert at nearly all things; but you still know when something is too big for you and are able to get some help from your friends.
At least hire some Home Depot guys!
I noticed you use rodman pliers. They are a go to for me, I have 3 pairs. Absolutely love them.
When bending metal its called a brake because of an old English verb breken, which means to bend or deflect. I was in a racecar fab shop often when I was young and the finger brake just mesmerized me with all the levers and things to fiddle with.
@Scott your work quality exceeds your reputation. Fine job painting as well.
'Keep up the good work'. 😎✌️
Small blocks of wood as a brake would aid neatly turning down the end tabs on your Z-channel drip caps. Buy some flanging pliers and true lefts and rights.I used to use an S-hook made of aluminum coil stock to temporarily hold up the other end of long pieces of lap siding.
The most wholesome and educational channel on RUclips!
I sided my new shop with LP, and followed the manufacturer's instructions to the letter on the gaps. I hired someone to do the painting, and did I ever get an ear full from him. He thought it was just terrible to do that, and had me go buy two cases of caulk. He used less than half.
I met you at Good of the Land in Texas back pre-Covid. It's good to finally have gotten back to something like normal.
So you let the painter talk you out of installing according to the manufacturer’s requirements? Is the painter going to cover you if you need to make a warranty claim down the road?
@@donbushek733 I was thinking the same thing. Smartside and Hardie are great products but unless you're doing it yourself you really have to shop around to find an installer that actually does it to spec with either of them, which of course conveniently lets both companies get out of a lot of warranty claims. And good luck collecting from the contractor that screwed it up!
You are a good father.... Keep up the good work..... JJ...
Scott, We enjoy your videos. You can extend the life of your switches indefinitely by installing flyback diodes across the relay/solenoid coils. High voltages are propagated when the coil field collapses and causes arcing (think ignition coil). The diodes short the back emf and prevent that arcing.
Great to be in shape and able to do a bit and know how to work. Take your time make it last. I look back....iam 47.....to plan and enjoy what a man would be at that is great ole therphy
What a blessing for your daughter and us. Thank you
I loved building my garage.
Your kids are lucky to have you Scott. Great Memories... 🙂
One trick I figured out for handling Hardie siding by myself. I got an 8 foot by 1 inch aluminum square tube and cut off one of the sides to form a u-channel. I'd set the edge of the 12 foot long Hardie siding into the channel and this gave me enough rigidity to be able to easily move and set the piece onto the Gecko supports.
your ability to clamber around at 20+ feet in the air amazes me. I learned very quickly when I was framing houses that I would be best as the cut man, planted firmly on the ground :D
I agree, I'm not afraid of heights but I am afraid of hitting the ground !
Truly a gift and a blessing to help and teach your kids and grandkids.
So true sometimes I forget why I build Even when it's frustrating there still beauty and enjoyment in crafting something
You're an amazing father...installing LP Lap siding by yourself, up and down that ladder all day. You're making my legs soar.
your last few words where the main part in this build the joy of being able to do this for your children / family . i think as builders we gain our biggest reward from doing our best for the people in our liveswhere no money /compentation is exchanged .i get the most enjoyment from helping others where it is out of there reach to employe as our useal clients do the wright person for that job after all what good is all the experence etc if you cant give it freely
Love that you use Kingspan product - a good auld Irish company taking on the US construction market - Joe B would be proud:)
This reminds me of when Steve Houde came over and helped me side my house!
Up here in British Columbia, we put "end dams" on the ends of our flashing over exterior door and window casings- instead of turning the ends downward, we turn them upwards. The flashing extends 1/2" or so past the end of the casing. This keeps water away from touching the end grains of horizontal trim.
We have been shooting it trim on with a 15 guage Cornish nailer since hardy board came out. ..
Thank you Scott
Your channel and Engels Coach shop
Are the best
Thank you
An s hook off a bungee strap is great to hold the other end on long pieces.
I can’t build a box but I enjoy every video the man puts out.
Great detail on the metal to protect OSB from weather
I've installed this siding several times, and always paint before installation. MUCH more efficient.
Spraying the primer sounds like a swell idea until you start doing it and paint is everywhere. What I do is drill a hole in the lid of an appropriate size container, stick the handle of a foam brush through it, and now I have a brush and container that can be closed. I agree 100% that the requirement to seal any cuts on the LP makes one of the nicest premium siding materials to work with a real pain - ESPECIALLY working alone. Having someone who can start cutting and sealing edges while you measure and nail 'em is such a game changer.
Like the way it ended the video a gift in a blessing
I really enjoy your videos. I am a little older than you and like you I have completed a lot of projects by myself. I am a retired welder but with the help of RUclips and the skills God has given me I have spent many satisfying hours working for myself..Thank you for sharing your many years of knoledge
One of the finest fellows I wish I knew. Thank You Scott.
It means allot that men with work ethic and integrity still are out there.
Take notes gentlemen!
Scott - if your contact switches go bad, just add a $5 automotive relay to it to control the power. Your nerd son in law should be able to handle it for you. Doesn't need to carry any power to the remote, just a tiny bit of signal. Could replace it with wire as thin as a headphone cable if you wanted after that, zero concern for amp draw, thickness would only be about durability at that point. Maybe toss a $1 diode across the relay to snuff the inductive kick of the motor shutting off and sparking the leads.
Best of the best!
My back aches for you! What a hard worker you are.
Glad to watch, you make a guy’s day watching these videos!
I do my drip caps opposite to you. Here's an idea. Make the first notch you show, but cut it out completely. Make the size of the notch equal to the distance you want the siding held off the flashing. Get a hand seamer, and grasp the horizontal portion of the drip cap. The tip of the seamer should be all the way on the notch you cut, and the edge should be about 1/4" from the inside corner. Bend up instead of down. The metal will fold in the corner (flatten that with the seamer). Now water that runs onto the drip cap cannot run off the side, and you have a nice shelf on each corner to rest your siding (or to ensure it doesn't go too low).
this is the way! end dams on the drip
Or at least squirt sealant into the corners, about an inch in.
yes. direct the water out and away from that typically bad water penetration point. The entire purpose of the cap is to do that. Send the water out and away. I also put the moisture barrier on top of the metal cap. doors and windows. think of it like roofing. I also caulk each course where it meets vertical trim, NOT on seams in the field (Hardy Plank standards)
Yes this is how we do it up in B.C
ruclips.net/user/shorts3N4teB-2PmA
Awesome, amazing work. And what a fantastic family.
I'm very much looking forward to getting back to this type of good work, as my current good work is teaching high school overseas. Building up young people has its' own rewards, but constructing of your fashion has its' own appeals. So, for now it is sketching designs, living frugally, and enjoying your videos.
Spraying the ends first…smart! That’s the Achilles heal of LP, and you solved it. Nice work, as usual.
...mmm and it takes more than one coat of paint to seal it off good !
Hardie plank says to prime all cut edges too.
Thank you EC I'm replacing the siding on my mom's house right now and these videos help so much!
In my neck of the woods, we use strapping behind most siding--including L+P--to create an air space. (Vinyl siding is an exception as it creates its own air space.)
Haha! I love to use my trim for an anvil:)
Thanks for this and your words of wisdom and humor. Just about to venture out for a double bathroom remodel for my son and his family. There will be a few cuts and bruises, but it's all worth it to help our kids move onward and upward.
You Rock!
Fantastic job! Nice to see you at work and your work!
Good episode, thanks.
CRAFTSMAN is well deserved.
Love your show your my double i understand your way of life
you want the bottom of your greenspan (water resistive barrier) to go over the top of the drip cap - ie shingle lap the water management system. water running down the greenspan will go behind the top of the drip cap because of the lapping order. drip cap won't drip anything as installed
I'm surprised you didn't spray the paint. I don't own a sprayer myself, and regret that every time I put paint up any other way because folks I know that have them swear by them.
I had LP Smart Side put on my house. We primed the back and all cut edges. The mistake I made was not using primer that was the same color as the already colored Smart Side. After two summers it still looks fantastic.
Your trick and tips and your wisdom on Soo many many thing is so awesome and refreshing
Great video. Thank you
i love LP can do a whole wall by myself with a couple little blocks!
I love it absolutely! Your an inspiration to me for sure and I appreciate your efforts to share your activities with us regular folks. Yup your famous bud!
Woohoo Big Stretch 🎉
So good to see the boys helping out at then end there!
Stunning work EC 👍
Looks great, Scott !
I'm doing some siding work right now as well.
Fortunately I bought a set of "power pole" electric pump jacks about ten or twelve years ago when I was siding a big , tall house on a steep hill and with no side yard space so I couldn't set up ladders.
Going up and down is so much easier.
So loading the materials is a breeze.
They were pricey , but what a labor saver for a solo tradesman
You should have cut the house wrap at a 45 degree angle and had it overlap the head flashing. Good job essential craftsman 😂😂😂
The paint looks great and yeah, spray the paint on when it’s on the ground. You’ll have to do touchups but the results will be better and it’s safer. Nice color!
Very cool, thanks for sharing.
happy to see you back ,glad to see you are ok / just thinking a cheery picker would have been handy to do those gable ends / cheers keep safe
Great job. I couldnt help but think about how i used to side houses and what a benefit an aerial lift was, i could take siding right up with me and side, soffit, and fascia a gable end nearly any house in a day by myself.
Very cool 👍😎👊🏻
THANK YOU KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK !
Great video of some of the finer detail work the Essential Craftsman puts into every project!!
You have a book with all all all the knowledge that you share?
With the high moisture in your area do you ever use a rain guard behind the siding?
Hi, Scott! I see that you have a Trojan miter saw stand! I used one for a few years with one of my employers, one of the best things about it was the wheels. I don't believe they make it anymore. I do have a few sets of their saw horses which are fantastic. Great Oregon-made products.
Happiness is a smooth running pumpjack.
Yes, family projects................... a pain, but worth it !!!
Thanks
Do you or anyone reading this have an opinion on whether or not one needs put battens external to sarking so as to cause an airgap between the sarking and shiplapped timber boards or timber weatherboard cladding on a timber framed house? In the video I notice there is no gap... but the wisdom at the timber yard that I buy from say that it is advisable. Any thoughts appreciated. Thanks. GREAT videos by the way.
"painting is not meant for me" 😆
youre a good man, make a great boss. dad is looking brill
Love your work 👍
I caulk the top of the windows and doors with metal drip edge just because unless you make a caulk dam behind the siding at the ends of the metal flashing water could run horizontally down the flashing and find it’s way behind the siding.
Yup, he should have sealed the last inch or so in the corners.
Do you do any work on a siding brake? I used to make all kinds of parts on one from J-channels to Facia, Brick molding ect. I really enjoyed doing it. Too bad I fell off a ladder a year ago breaking my ankle and tearing the heck out of my shoulder... The shoulder (rotator cup and labrum) is doing pretty good but my ankle I'm pretty sure is going to give me pain for the rest of my life... watching these videos remind me of actually doing the work. Thank You
you could put the power for you crane on relays and use the switches to activate and deactivate the relays. Its kinda what they are for.
I wonder if you should fab/have fabed a ssqa for your mini ex. You could turn that into a mini telehandler among other thing!
If you'd like, I can find a waterproof switch that meets the amperage requirements for your crane. I make electrical housings for industrial electronics for a living.
You should use a contactor for the crane. The momentary switch sends a signal to the contactor, and the contactor does all the hard work.
It's an easy job to do. Your son in law should know how. This way you could use a slimmer cable for the control box.
If you want to be extra fancy, it's just as easy (if now easier) to wire a remote.
The crane probably has relays (contractors) to handle the high amperage current. Parts store toggle switches are not designed to handle the constant cycling that a crane controls like this gets…. A Mil. Spec toggle switch is, they are not cheap $50 each on McMaster Carr, but they are a one and done answer.
"Need a bigger hammer" 🤣🤣 keep up the good work, Nate!!
“And give thanks that it’s 14 feet off the ground”
That cracked me up. We all have been there a time or two
What size nails did you use for this? LP just talks about stud embedment. I suppose they don’t know what thickness sheeting you have and if you have insulation on there too. They say 1-1/2” embedment. That means if I have 5/8 panels, plus 3/8” thickness of the siding means I should have at least 2” nails for this?