Just so that you know, that Geiger Tube has ZERO sensitivity to Alpha:the only reason the 241Am source is indicating anything at all, is that 241Am also emits some low energy Gamma, nearly all of it at 59.5 KeV.
@@marcinp.8108 Mica windows are better for low energy stuff, and Alpha-the thickness of the window will affect this. For example, a typical American "pancake" tube has thinner mica than a standard end-window tube, so even though both of them have Mica windows, the "Pancake" tube will be more sensitive to Alpha). The extra thick Mica that some of the Russian "pancake" tubes use makes them barely able to detect Alpha at all(keep in mind, that even the specs on those tubes say that they are suitable for Beta and Gamma, but not Alpha)-they ARE very durable, compared to the thin-window Mica ones though).
I was wondering. I have a counter with the soviet brass GM tube and it seems really good at picking up Am241. I scratched my head wondering how alpha made it through the brass. thx
The best thing about Fnirsi products is that there's always plenty of headroom for a much bigger battery... In a product like this, you hope that you never have to use it for survival and in a situation like that, you probably wouldn't have a grid to charge it and that's where you need a bigger battery to get you through. With what's going on in Europe, this is a handy device to have alongside a bunker....
I got one of these rad detectors. Worked great for a month or so, then it wouldnt turn on. I was brave enough to open up using this video as a guide. My version is slightly different… Four screws to open the back panel. No clips to connect the tube…Mine has two black wire leads soldered to each end. instead of one thumb sized batttery, I have 2 tiny batteries shaped like pieces of Trident gum, wired independently to the back of the battery port. Both batteries and the tube are held in blace by a glue strip that did not do a good job holding the components. As they get loose and rattLe around. I have to replace the two batteries as they both seem swollen. Thats the source of the problem.
14:05 I always do this, cut or tear off the screen protector peeler and let the screen protector in place. I always wanted an radiation detector, I looked for some radiascan after seeing kreosan videos, but this one seems more appropriate for me, also it's from Fnirsi, a company I have already bought several products from, including a pocket oscilloscope which is my favorite.
Thank you. I have for a long time thought about a YT channel that I swatched years ago and wanted to sub to again but coudnt remember the name. There it is 👍
Nope, buy and test first. Plastic limits the measurement of beta particles, but there is a good dosimeter at this price and it is not a digit generator
I have that same Soviet model "Mayak" 16 jewels wristwatch-with the white dial! It still works and keeps time, and it is quite radioactive. Thank you for making these videos! Cheers from the USA!
Slight design issue: they should have put a cutout on the PCB under the detector tube, so the double sided ground fill copper clad on the board would not block a lot of radiation from the front side. Looks like there are no traces under the tube, so the board could be cut out afterwards. There are some vias, but those are probably just to connect the GND fill on the two sides. I would put a piece of lead sheet on the microcontroller (from the underside of the PCB, too), because high energy gamma particles can knock out charges from flash memory cells, and corrupt the firmware. It is not impossible for it to even cause physical failure of semiconductors, so might be worthy putting some lead shield on the COG/COF driver chip of the LCD as well. Oh, and I would conformally coat the whole PCB, because if this thing becomes wet, it can easily destroy it, high voltage right next to a microcontroller.
youre rightt and u just made this thing cost 300$. yeah maybe at scale it would only add a few dollars to the price, but if youre not the cheapest your economies of scale for mfg go way down and unit costs sky rocket. i bet they thought about some of these changes and decided to pocket the difference. I think the whole tin indium oxide coated glass muller tube is a real smart way to make a consumer grade tool. as long as it uses that tech though, serious and high paying users will never take this guy seriously. ima pick one up and put it on a shelf for 40 years and hope i never need to use it... I wonder if it would be worth cutting a hole in the back and replacing it with kapgon poly amid tape to make up for the glass tubes shortcommings....
@@vevenaneathna The only change they should make is to put a cutout on the PCB under the detector tube, which would cost 0.000$ per unit, because the board already has a countour-milled non-rectangular shape. All the other mods I mentioned can easily be DIYed after buying the meter. In fact, you can cut out the PCB under the tube if you want to. Or just cut the copper clad with an exacto knife and peel it off. I can only guess the bare FR4 board probably has some level of shielding effect, but most of it comes from the two layer copper clad. I am not expert by any means in radiation detectors, why exactly you consider this type of detector tube consumer-only, not worthy for professional equipment? And how cutting out the back and coverng it with Kapton tape would help with this? BTW, I bought one of these in november. It meausures background radiation OK, the values match with the official ones. In mine, they sodered the tube into the socket, because it had a tendency to fall off during shipping, according to some early reviews on Aliexpress. I always forget to order an ionising chamber smoke detector to test it with a higher radiation level. I already tested every old clock and watch around me, seems like none of them has radium in it.
the copper is a good thing if you are measuring samples and not ambiant radiation. i would coat the pcb and add a peizo to the led to hear the clicks while prospecting in the dark caves and mines.
@@noimnotarobotcanubeleiveit7024 Yes, depending on the application, making the detector directional can be a good thing. But if you want to carry it and use it as a dosimeter, it is definitely a bad thing. I myself have been thinking about to put a piezo on the LED driver, ever since I bought the detector last november. A problem might be that the LED is driven by the microcontroller, and not by the detector tube front-end. The MCU might stretch the pulses to make the LED blinking more visible, but that is not a good idea for the piezo, it would make less clicks than what the tube detects. So it might be a bit more difficult project to add a speaker with good result. I will hopefully get into this within a few months. I will measure the pulses on the front-end with one channel of my scope, and on the LED driver with the other channel. If they are the same, putting the piezo on the LED driver will give an acceptable result, otherwise, the signal should be tapped from the front-end, with great care not to load it down.
Uranium and radium both have radon in their decay chains. Do you think you could measure radon concentration in whatever box you are storing the radioactive items in to determine if that's a concern?
No, not MEASURE directly, but you can experimenting with the vacuum cleaner: Suck air through a filter (e.g. a cotton pad) for 15 minutes and then measure the cotton pad with the Geiger counter. If radon is present, its decay products get stuck in the filter and an increased level is measured.
As others have mentioned: You need a special instrument to measure Radon. The method with at cotton pad can work, but will not give you any value. If you have a lot of for example old, Radium watches - that can be a concerns. In such cases its advisable to store somewhere well ventilated and where people not are so often.
I bought this detector but there are some differences from this one. First there is no screw in the middle of the cover. Just t ho 4 in corners. No big deal. But the major difference is tube used. The metal spring "fuse holders" stile contacts are empty. There is instead a much smaller tube soldered directly in to the PCB. Looks like old glow tube neon indicator (just a bigger one around 2 cm) with some ceramic tube inside with two electrodes. one on inside one on the outside of the ceramic tube inside glass tube. And the best think is the glas tube is just soldered on one side but the other side is just "flopping in the breeze". Great for longevity i guess.
You might want to take a look at the review of the GC-01 I just released on my channel. Sadly the product has just switched to a far inferior GM tube and this even includes the white-label versions of this device. I contacted the company here in China (where I am based) and they confirmed the change. Such a shame, its was pretty OK for a low cost counter...
Nice! As usual, your thorough review of the GC-01 is very interesting; this Geiger counter has many great features. THANKS! I want a scintillation-photomultiplier model that can detect bananas from a distance of a few Meters...
Since the sensitivity is so different (4x?) when the box is opened, now I'm asking myself if the calibration was done with the box closed or opened. Or if it was done at all, actually.
@@orange11squares Water would be OK but the recommendation by Fiesta is to avoid acidic drinks or storage of them. Not just because of U-oxide but also Lead content. Apparently the vintage glaze doesn't do well in microwaves either. Many happy housewives still use their vintage fiesta red orange pottery. However, the bright pastel colors mostly come out for special occasions. In reality any trace amount of leeched uranium oxide would pass right through your body pretty quickly because it doesn't get retained.
I built my own around the biggest GM tube I could get from Russia. They are 8.5" in length and the most sensitive. The bigger the GM tubes are, the more sensitive they are. Mine runs at 400V following the datasheet recommendation for the plateau voltage. Built it around an ESP32 that has a web server and logs readings for a week before needing to download the data and clear the log memory. If no download occurs, it will overwrite the old data in a red robin fashion. Emails me if radiation exceeds 100 pps. I'm hoping it will give me enough time to kiss my ass goodbye, when and if a nuke fall over my head. I'm dreaming. There will be a flash and that's all she wrote.
What is that red light on top? I bought it yesterday and there in nothing about the red light in the manual. Is that light flash every time when detect a particle?
Is it sensitive enough to detect a nuclear power catastrophe and radioactive pollution coming with the wind from a nuclear bomb detonating? I mean to be able to avoid eating contaminated crops etc.
@@bdf2718 Yeah, I know those, but I thought they only generated pulsing DC voltage and expected to see some kind of ripple on the oscilloscope but it was pretty flat
I work for the automotive industry. The same electronics (MQB23) is going next year into Škoda Kodiak, VW Touran, Seat, Audi, and I probably forgot something.
Where can I find the uranium glass, or the other radioactive materials? I just need to test my radioactivity meter but I do not have any material to test it on. Any sugestion where I can find some?
It's disappointing that the battery for the clock is wearing off (looks like it's not getting power from the main battery when it's available). And it's the small CR1220 instead of CR2025 or CR2032.
Geiger counter's Geiger Muller tube essentially acts like a thyristor / thyratron whenever radiation hits the tube, only the Halogen gas like Chlorine or Iodine quench the current once the dead time is up, around several tens of microseconds up to a hundred milliseconds depending on the gas fill. In this case the current dips are measured by the original early geiger counters made with early transistors and late valve (vacuum) tubes, or as complicated as this Geiger counter, computerized. The same can be accomplished with the Photodiode in the reverse bias setup (I recommend large area avalanche photodiode as it's actually pretty sensitive due to large area of the photodiode junction), too. (Photodiode has to be in the light tight case so it's more sensitive to extremely short wavelength of light rather than visible light, like X-rays and Gamma-rays.)
Nice to know. Looks like JP1 may be a JTAG or SWD debug connection. It's a nice product but missing the "Geiger Counter click" mode. Hard to believe they left that out.
I got one and it doesn't have the clicking particle counter. Many are also complaining about it missing such a common feature. It has a firmware update feature so I'm hoping maybe they will add it in a firmware update.
For everybody encountering the "100hours brick" problem, I have firmware from Fnirsi support to solve it, write me PM (In short, after 100hours of lifetime without reset, GC01 becomes stuck and totally bricked, be aware of it.)
@@greenblanko815 Easy. Connect it to windows PC turned off. Long press the turn on button, you should see it as new small flash drive. Put firmware binary on the flash drive, it should accept it and immediately reflash and reboot.
Hi! What kind of f.u.c.k.i.n.g cup is that radioactive and how is such a thing possible?Does the cup not radiate on you? Where can I buy one for tests?
@@DiodeGoneWild It is quite expensive to buy here in the UK from the United States at £245 + £40 postage for a single cup from 1936-1942. I think I will give up on this purchase! Thanks anyway!🙂
I just got the same geiger counter for my bday along with some uranium glass marbles, and the counter is terrible! I it left right on top of the uranium glass for an hour and it never rose above background, there's not a single opening or vent for the tube, with plastic that thick beta rays are probably being stopped if not really slowed down, alpha rays? forget it, gamma will get through but minuscule amounts of depleted uranium won't throw any.
Interesting video. I bought one from Banggood six months ago, Mine came with the better JM231 tube, It had the fifth screw on the back, coupled with an annoying mistake (?) on PCB's silk screening; The LCD flex pins are labeled 1 to 40, and the main PCB has the connector with a dot on pin 40, not on pin 1 as it should be. I removed the loading resistor on GM tube supply, as you suggest in you other video The resistor had a very high value, I was unable to measure it in circuit (it was labeled 506 , that should be 50 Mega Ohm) I Modified the buzzer circuit, works ok. Thank you
You mean that yours came with the J321 , there is nothing on Google with JM231. if you look closely at 10:36 , you can see that there is the J321 tube installed, this is the better one. In the new Fnirsi GC-01 is the J613 installed, which works with a lower voltage and is less sensitive as the J321.
There is some shits in the manual. In 3:54 metering equivalent 1Sv=103 mSv (miliSv?)=106 uSV (mikroSv??? WTF). According to me is 1Sv = 1000 mSv = 1000000uSv. Exposure, Absorption metering is the same.
Well, I opened it and could see there is no CR1220 battery, it is missing. So I had to put one into it's place. The switching-off problem gone. And when I opened it anyway, I replaced a 2500 mAh battery. This doubled the operating time.
That's why I bought mine haha but the answer is no. It's still a cool device though. But you want an rf meter. I got the Cornet ED-88TPlus5G which measures up to 8GHz only. Devices in my home were far more of a concern than external things like towers but every case is different.
Why the F is there backup battery CR1120? To hold setting or log memory when li-on too low and cut-off self by BMS? Strange design better use different type of memory then.
I bought geiger counter (not this one), was running house, neighbourhood, town, woods, neighbour towns, foods, rocks, watches, plates everything for 2 months. And never encountered single radiation. It always just goes up and dwon between 0.15 and 0.25 randomly. I do not plan to buy radiactive material like on these videos :D, so in the end I wondered, did I even needed to buy this :D for normal people it will never show anything, so You will not even know if it really works :D
The radiation from the watch is probably from the glow in the dark markings and on the minute and hour indicators / hands. That material is more harmful if it is directly handled, disturbed, ingested and breathed in. Search for "Radium girls". There's a wikipedia and a book on them.
Glad you kept some samples. The cup was a surprise. I bought a detector from Russia after Chernobyl popped. In Australia they took a lot longer to remove them gas light sockets from the market. Volkswagen will now sell 3 models of every car: Macron version with alcohol tester and Vladimir version with yellow Fnirsi detector whilst in their home country the nox detector will remain?
anybody flash a new firmware to this. the first unit i got has a soldered in GM tube but i got a second clip in GM tube and want to change the firmware to take account of the new tube
![FNIRSI GC-01 [IMPORTANT PRODUCT UPDATE] ☢️](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E9lz3cr2KQs/mqdefault.jpg)
![FNIRSI GC-01 [IMPORTANT PRODUCT UPDATE] ☢️](/img/tr.png)
Just so that you know, that Geiger Tube has ZERO sensitivity to Alpha:the only reason the 241Am source is indicating anything at all, is that 241Am also emits some low energy Gamma, nearly all of it at 59.5 KeV.
Ty
Pretty cool big eyed kitty.
What about detectors with mica window?
@@marcinp.8108 Mica windows are better for low energy stuff, and Alpha-the thickness of the window will affect this.
For example, a typical American "pancake" tube has thinner mica than a standard end-window tube, so even though both of them have Mica windows, the "Pancake" tube will be more sensitive to Alpha).
The extra thick Mica that some of the Russian "pancake" tubes use makes them barely able to detect Alpha at all(keep in mind, that even the specs on those tubes say that they are suitable for Beta and Gamma, but not Alpha)-they ARE very durable, compared to the thin-window Mica ones though).
I was wondering. I have a counter with the soviet brass GM tube and it seems really good at picking up Am241. I scratched my head wondering how alpha made it through the brass. thx
The best thing about Fnirsi products is that there's always plenty of headroom for a much bigger battery...
In a product like this, you hope that you never have to use it for survival and in a situation like that, you probably wouldn't have a grid to charge it and that's where you need a bigger battery to get you through.
With what's going on in Europe, this is a handy device to have alongside a bunker....
There are solar panels on literally every roof, there will be "grid" even after an apocalypse, albeit low powered.
I got one of these rad detectors. Worked great for a month or so, then it wouldnt turn on. I was brave enough to open up using this video as a guide. My version is slightly different… Four screws to open the back panel. No clips to connect the tube…Mine has two black wire leads soldered to each end. instead of one thumb sized batttery, I have 2 tiny batteries shaped like pieces of Trident gum, wired independently to the back of the battery port. Both batteries and the tube are held in blace by a glue strip that did not do a good job holding the components. As they get loose and rattLe around. I have to replace the two batteries as they both seem swollen. Thats the source of the problem.
In count mode, this needs to emit a click proportional to the CPM rate. It prevents it from being used as a traditional geiger counter.
Perhaps it's possible to put a piezo beeper in parallel with the LED.
@@Ni5ei This has been done ruclips.net/user/shortsOHGCy6C2i7A
place an active piezo before the led resistor and ground. its ok as an workaround.
You're the best, Dany! 👍
When they say on the box: "Geiger-Miller", you can be damn sure they know what they are talking about. xD
Yeah noticed that as well..
I'd call that a 'forgivable translation error' since the thing seems pretty decent overall
Well Spotted.
Perhaps they just over-translated Müller?
Also love how they say the dose rate maxes at both 1000 uSv/hr and 10 mSv/hr in the same sentence.
I love that FNRSI sends you their product and brave enough. I use their oscilloscope very cheap and very usable!
I got one of those too recently - very pleased with it (shame about the deathdapter power supply but thats easily replaced)
14:05 I always do this, cut or tear off the screen protector peeler and let the screen protector in place. I always wanted an radiation detector, I looked for some radiascan after seeing kreosan videos, but this one seems more appropriate for me, also it's from Fnirsi, a company I have already bought several products from, including a pocket oscilloscope which is my favorite.
Fnirsi 1013-d?
Thank you. I have for a long time thought about a YT channel that I swatched years ago and wanted to sub to again but coudnt remember the name. There it is 👍
i bought the one known from kreosan videos. it's absolutely awesome. i brought it to pripyat and collected some impressive data
This is a pretty good random number generator…
It's all fun and games until those numbers get bigger and bigger.
@@dennis8196
You are right!
Nope, buy and test first. Plastic limits the measurement of beta particles, but there is a good dosimeter at this price and it is not a digit generator
@@Dozymetriado you mean the dosimeter shown in this review?
@@shahf8157This is not a digit generator.
I just got one of these last week! I love the build quality and form factor, but haven’t thoroughly tested it yet
I have wanted a Geiger counter for awhile now, thanks for bringing this one to my attention!
I have that same Soviet model "Mayak" 16 jewels wristwatch-with the white dial! It still works and keeps time, and it is quite radioactive. Thank you for making these videos! Cheers from the USA!
Slight design issue: they should have put a cutout on the PCB under the detector tube, so the double sided ground fill copper clad on the board would not block a lot of radiation from the front side. Looks like there are no traces under the tube, so the board could be cut out afterwards. There are some vias, but those are probably just to connect the GND fill on the two sides.
I would put a piece of lead sheet on the microcontroller (from the underside of the PCB, too), because high energy gamma particles can knock out charges from flash memory cells, and corrupt the firmware. It is not impossible for it to even cause physical failure of semiconductors, so might be worthy putting some lead shield on the COG/COF driver chip of the LCD as well.
Oh, and I would conformally coat the whole PCB, because if this thing becomes wet, it can easily destroy it, high voltage right next to a microcontroller.
youre rightt and u just made this thing cost 300$. yeah maybe at scale it would only add a few dollars to the price, but if youre not the cheapest your economies of scale for mfg go way down and unit costs sky rocket.
i bet they thought about some of these changes and decided to pocket the difference.
I think the whole tin indium oxide coated glass muller tube is a real smart way to make a consumer grade tool. as long as it uses that tech though, serious and high paying users will never take this guy seriously. ima pick one up and put it on a shelf for 40 years and hope i never need to use it...
I wonder if it would be worth cutting a hole in the back and replacing it with kapgon poly amid tape to make up for the glass tubes shortcommings....
@@vevenaneathna The only change they should make is to put a cutout on the PCB under the detector tube, which would cost 0.000$ per unit, because the board already has a countour-milled non-rectangular shape. All the other mods I mentioned can easily be DIYed after buying the meter. In fact, you can cut out the PCB under the tube if you want to. Or just cut the copper clad with an exacto knife and peel it off. I can only guess the bare FR4 board probably has some level of shielding effect, but most of it comes from the two layer copper clad.
I am not expert by any means in radiation detectors, why exactly you consider this type of detector tube consumer-only, not worthy for professional equipment? And how cutting out the back and coverng it with Kapton tape would help with this?
BTW, I bought one of these in november. It meausures background radiation OK, the values match with the official ones. In mine, they sodered the tube into the socket, because it had a tendency to fall off during shipping, according to some early reviews on Aliexpress. I always forget to order an ionising chamber smoke detector to test it with a higher radiation level. I already tested every old clock and watch around me, seems like none of them has radium in it.
the copper is a good thing if you are measuring samples and not ambiant radiation. i would coat the pcb and add a peizo to the led to hear the clicks while prospecting in the dark caves and mines.
@@noimnotarobotcanubeleiveit7024
Yes, depending on the application, making the detector directional can be a good thing. But if you want to carry it and use it as a dosimeter, it is definitely a bad thing.
I myself have been thinking about to put a piezo on the LED driver, ever since I bought the detector last november. A problem might be that the LED is driven by the microcontroller, and not by the detector tube front-end. The MCU might stretch the pulses to make the LED blinking more visible, but that is not a good idea for the piezo, it would make less clicks than what the tube detects. So it might be a bit more difficult project to add a speaker with good result. I will hopefully get into this within a few months. I will measure the pulses on the front-end with one channel of my scope, and on the LED driver with the other channel. If they are the same, putting the piezo on the LED driver will give an acceptable result, otherwise, the signal should be tapped from the front-end, with great care not to load it down.
Don't look at the flash.
Tube technology is often forgotten, yet still used today like in these Geiger counters and microwave ovens.
Photomultiplier tubes are still common as well.
Uranium and radium both have radon in their decay chains. Do you think you could measure radon concentration in whatever box you are storing the radioactive items in to determine if that's a concern?
No, not MEASURE directly, but you can experimenting with the vacuum cleaner: Suck air through a filter (e.g. a cotton pad) for 15 minutes and then measure the cotton pad with the Geiger counter. If radon is present, its decay products get stuck in the filter and an increased level is measured.
get an Airthings radon detector
@@kiloohm Unnecessary for one measurement. There are radon detection services for construction purposes.
As others have mentioned: You need a special instrument to measure Radon. The method with at cotton pad can work, but will not give you any value. If you have a lot of for example old, Radium watches - that can be a concerns. In such cases its advisable to store somewhere well ventilated and where people not are so often.
Radon? 😂
I bought this detector but there are some differences from this one. First there is no screw in the middle of the cover. Just t ho 4 in corners. No big deal. But the major difference is tube used. The metal spring "fuse holders" stile contacts are empty. There is instead a much smaller tube soldered directly in to the PCB. Looks like old glow tube neon indicator (just a bigger one around 2 cm) with some ceramic tube inside with two electrodes. one on inside one on the outside of the ceramic tube inside glass tube. And the best think is the glas tube is just soldered on one side but the other side is just "flopping in the breeze". Great for longevity i guess.
Oh, that's the one with the Geiger-Miller tube. Noice!
You might want to take a look at the review of the GC-01 I just released on my channel. Sadly the product has just switched to a far inferior GM tube and this even includes the white-label versions of this device. I contacted the company here in China (where I am based) and they confirmed the change. Such a shame, its was pretty OK for a low cost counter...
The GM tube is easily replaced with the J321 by anybody who can use a soldering iron to remove the original tube.
@@dennisgeake2156 Also need to change the anode resistor, so that it matches the correct characteristics of the tube itself.
Nice! As usual, your thorough review of the GC-01 is very interesting; this Geiger counter has many great features.
THANKS!
I want a scintillation-photomultiplier model that can detect bananas from a distance of a few Meters...
Since the sensitivity is so different (4x?) when the box is opened, now I'm asking myself if the calibration was done with the box closed or opened. Or if it was done at all, actually.
Hello my answer is this machine good for measuring radiation after disaster or not? Thanks
Thanks!
Nice review video. I liked it
Does it charge using an USB C to C cable? I have seen so many dodgy devices breaking the USB C specification by not allowing this
This orange tee cup is really impresive!
yep, just don't drink water with it... :))
It is good for green pee :-)
@@orange11squares Water would be OK but the recommendation by Fiesta is to avoid acidic drinks or storage of them. Not just because of U-oxide but also Lead content. Apparently the vintage glaze doesn't do well in microwaves either. Many happy housewives still use their vintage fiesta red orange pottery. However, the bright pastel colors mostly come out for special occasions. In reality any trace amount of leeched uranium oxide would pass right through your body pretty quickly because it doesn't get retained.
@@orange11squares Juice is the real danger
I agree with M.K. comment. BTW the Geiger for Beta and Gamma seems not bad... BTW I've a lot of doubts about measurements precisions. 😆
What would you use it for in practice, outside of a nuclear apocalypse?
To detect radiation… any setting where there might be…. There are countless places that actually require people test for it…
Having some sort of grill or holes in the case near the tube would improve sensitivity for beta radiation. Plastic blocks beta radiation.
Nice hai 😂😂😂😂
I built my own around the biggest GM tube I could get from Russia. They are 8.5" in length and the most sensitive. The bigger the GM tubes are, the more sensitive they are.
Mine runs at 400V following the datasheet recommendation for the plateau voltage.
Built it around an ESP32 that has a web server and logs readings for a week before needing to download the data and clear the log memory. If no download occurs, it will overwrite the old data in a red robin fashion.
Emails me if radiation exceeds 100 pps.
I'm hoping it will give me enough time to kiss my ass goodbye, when and if a nuke fall over my head. I'm dreaming. There will be a flash and that's all she wrote.
Who'd you source the GM tube from?
@@lciummo1 Sorry, I missed your message.
I bought it from Russia about 5 years ago (2 for $20). The GM tube is model SI-22G.
Can you use a standard vacuum photocell as a geiger counter tube?
Awesome review!
Super interesting 🔥🔥🔥🔥
Radiation is always amazing
What is that red light on top? I bought it yesterday and there in nothing about the red light in the manual. Is that light flash every time when detect a particle?
Exactly!
Is it sensitive enough to detect a nuclear power catastrophe and radioactive pollution coming with the wind from a nuclear bomb detonating? I mean to be able to avoid eating contaminated crops etc.
I saw no transformer, how is it stepping up the voltage? Just a boost converter with those inductors?
Just boost and multiply. They probably did it to use an off the shelf inductor instead of having to use a custom transformer.
Cockcroft Walton. Google.
@@bdf2718 Yeah, I know those, but I thought they only generated pulsing DC voltage and expected to see some kind of ripple on the oscilloscope but it was pretty flat
@@bdf2718 That's a bingo!
Really looking forward to the stud detector
Fnrisi keep using that case for different products.
I was wondering why it is way too big... I guess you could fit a battery with 6 times the capacity inside.
I work for the automotive industry. The same electronics (MQB23) is going next year into Škoda Kodiak, VW Touran, Seat, Audi, and I probably forgot something.
TWO DAYS AGO? He just released it!! Are you cheating?
@@jesuslovesyou5819 Patreons can get access to his videos before everyone else
Plastic tooling (molds) is very expensive to machine.
Nice they used colour diagrams in the manual. Usually they print them in greyscale and it's impossible to see what they're depicting.
Apakah data dari alat ini bisa ditransfer ke komputer/laptop? Mohon info.
Where can I find the uranium glass, or the other radioactive materials? I just need to test my radioactivity meter but I do not have any material to test it on. Any sugestion where I can find some?
flee Markets. Older relatives often have old watches in some drawer 🙂
Smoke detectors kit.
No clicks, no buy. If the user could hear the collision pulses, the screen delay would not matter that much.
What are the details on the chipset running the device for data logging?
CH32F103
R8T6
401636B45
It's disappointing that the battery for the clock is wearing off (looks like it's not getting power from the main battery when it's available). And it's the small CR1220 instead of CR2025 or CR2032.
Geiger counter's Geiger Muller tube essentially acts like a thyristor / thyratron whenever radiation hits the tube, only the Halogen gas like Chlorine or Iodine quench the current once the dead time is up, around several tens of microseconds up to a hundred milliseconds depending on the gas fill. In this case the current dips are measured by the original early geiger counters made with early transistors and late valve (vacuum) tubes, or as complicated as this Geiger counter, computerized. The same can be accomplished with the Photodiode in the reverse bias setup (I recommend large area avalanche photodiode as it's actually pretty sensitive due to large area of the photodiode junction), too. (Photodiode has to be in the light tight case so it's more sensitive to extremely short wavelength of light rather than visible light, like X-rays and Gamma-rays.)
Is a diodes and capacitors next to a geiger tube is a voltage doubler or not?
It has more than 2 stages. It's a multiplier, not a doubler.
@@DiodeGoneWild Many doublers!
If I remember right that CH32F103R8T6 is functionality and pin compatible with STM32F103R8T6
Nice to know. Looks like JP1 may be a JTAG or SWD debug connection. It's a nice product but missing the "Geiger Counter click" mode. Hard to believe they left that out.
Is there a way to export this data or even SSH/Telnet into the device to nab this real-time data? Danke.
Sadly no. The hardware would support it because it has a full USB interface, but the firmware was not written to support it.
The product label lacks post apocalyptic use case . I have the barebones bangood kit
Got mine now. The Tube is now soldered to the terminals.
Does that thing work without the battery, just from USB charger?
Does it have the typical geiger counter "tick" for each detected particle? If not, is there a reason?
Thank you!
Just to make you happy I've added some "ticks" for you. ✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔✔😏
The reason is: The Chinese don't know that we need something like that. Many Chinese Geiger counters do not have a ticker.
the click is very annoying... once its been running for an hour straight
@@Electroneer0 every device with a ticker has a switch to turn off the ticker. but in some cases it is very helpful, more important than the display.
I got one and it doesn't have the clicking particle counter. Many are also complaining about it missing such a common feature. It has a firmware update feature so I'm hoping maybe they will add it in a firmware update.
Is this equipment helpful in uranium enrichment? Just asking for a friend
Where is your DIY Geiger building video
Can you design a capacitor leakage tester? Your design and opinion.
Just use a uA meter.
For everybody encountering the "100hours brick" problem, I have firmware from Fnirsi support to solve it, write me PM (In short, after 100hours of lifetime without reset, GC01 becomes stuck and totally bricked, be aware of it.)
can you reset it somehow manually? :( I don't want mine to brick
Hi Karel, how I can contcat with You? Mine dosimeter is bricked already :(
@@greenblanko815 Yes, in menu but reflash the newest firmware and you can be calm
@@karelsvoboda1812 thank you! do you know how can I reflash it? Sorry, I have no idea :'(
@@greenblanko815 Easy. Connect it to windows PC turned off. Long press the turn on button, you should see it as new small flash drive. Put firmware binary on the flash drive, it should accept it and immediately reflash and reboot.
I just watched this video to see your collection of radioactive materials.
Is there anyway to pull data from the USB port?
What tube use this counter?
What's wrong with C13 on the board?
what was the material on the square peice of metal?
Do you mean the Sr90 tester from an old RBGT-62 ?
Hi! What kind of f.u.c.k.i.n.g cup is that radioactive and how is such a thing possible?Does the cup not radiate on you? Where can I buy one for tests?
It's Fiestaware red, the old one with the orange-red uranium glaze.
@@DiodeGoneWild It is quite expensive to buy here in the UK from the United States at £245 + £40 postage for a single cup from 1936-1942. I think I will give up on this purchase! Thanks anyway!🙂
I just got the same geiger counter for my bday along with some uranium glass marbles, and the counter is terrible! I it left right on top of the uranium glass for an hour and it never rose above background, there's not a single opening or vent for the tube, with plastic that thick beta rays are probably being stopped if not really slowed down, alpha rays? forget it, gamma will get through but minuscule amounts of depleted uranium won't throw any.
Interesting video. I bought one from Banggood six months ago,
Mine came with the better JM231 tube,
It had the fifth screw on the back, coupled with an annoying mistake (?) on PCB's silk screening;
The LCD flex pins are labeled 1 to 40, and the main PCB has the connector with a dot on pin 40, not on pin 1 as it should be.
I removed the loading resistor on GM tube supply, as you suggest in you other video
The resistor had a very high value, I was unable to measure it in circuit (it was labeled 506 , that should be 50 Mega Ohm)
I Modified the buzzer circuit, works ok. Thank you
You mean that yours came with the J321 , there is nothing on Google with JM231.
if you look closely at 10:36 , you can see that there is the J321 tube installed, this is the better one. In the new Fnirsi GC-01 is the J613 installed, which works with a lower voltage and is less sensitive as the J321.
There is some shits in the manual. In 3:54 metering equivalent 1Sv=103 mSv (miliSv?)=106 uSV (mikroSv??? WTF). According to me is 1Sv = 1000 mSv = 1000000uSv. Exposure, Absorption metering is the same.
It was supposed to be 10 to the power of 3 and 10 to the power of 6, but the ˢᵘᵖᵉʳˢᶜʳᶦᵖᵗ disappeared... so 10³ turned into 103 and 10⁶ into 106.
Is there any waterproof?
I have no need for this, but now I want one
I bought one, looks good. here is one problem: after every switching off every time I have to set the date and time...
Well, I opened it and could see there is no CR1220 battery, it is missing. So I had to put one into it's place. The switching-off problem gone. And when I opened it anyway, I replaced a 2500 mAh battery. This doubled the operating time.
What type of radiation does it detect (alpha, beta,or gamma
All i need to know. Is it detects 5-6g? Im against microwaving my body
That's why I bought mine haha but the answer is no. It's still a cool device though. But you want an rf meter. I got the Cornet ED-88TPlus5G which measures up to 8GHz only. Devices in my home were far more of a concern than external things like towers but every case is different.
Why the F is there backup battery CR1120? To hold setting or log memory when li-on too low and cut-off self by BMS? Strange design better use different type of memory then.
It is to keep the realtime clock ticking while switched off.
Great video.
I've ordered one using your link. I need a portable one and this one seems reasonable. Hope you get a commission.
I recently ordered a oscilloscope from them I hope it is a good product
Hezká angličtina, to je ze základky ?
8:45 I'd argue that testing is not unboxing and was very interestiiiiing.
Does anyone know to which address I can send a device to be analyzed?
Dildo ? coffee maker ? shower cap ? you aint given much to go on Lol!
I bought geiger counter (not this one), was running house, neighbourhood, town, woods, neighbour towns, foods, rocks, watches, plates everything for 2 months. And never encountered single radiation. It always just goes up and dwon between 0.15 and 0.25 randomly. I do not plan to buy radiactive material like on these videos :D, so in the end I wondered, did I even needed to buy this :D for normal people it will never show anything, so You will not even know if it really works :D
What unit did you buy?
There is a lot of soviet watches in Ebay! 😵💫 boy this video is an eye opener! 😮
O que tem dentro desse tubo de vidro dentro desse aparelho?
Oh, an STM32 clone MCU inside, this is new for me.
pretty common for FNIRSI products actually.
I wonder why they didn't take the middle screw out and just put a gigantic battery in it, that seems very obvious to me
It's a budget device. A big battery would be the most expensive component in it.
When I get one the first thing I’ll probably do is put the biggest battery that will fit in it.
Jsou ty hodinky vůbec bezpečné nosit 24/7 několik desítek let? 😅
Děda nosil podobný skoro celej život. Teď je mu 95 a pořád v pohodě.
The radiation from the watch is probably from the glow in the dark markings and on the minute and hour indicators / hands.
That material is more harmful if it is directly handled, disturbed, ingested and breathed in. Search for "Radium girls". There's a wikipedia and a book on them.
CH32F103R8T6... an STM32F103C8T6?
According to the box, it detects `x-ray, gamma-ray and beta-ray` (in both english and chinese)?? *scratches head*
I don't see any problem with that. If it claimed it detected Yobba rays, that would be a problem.
its low reading but working
The plastic case is more than sufficient to stop alphas, not the fault of the tube!
You realy profesional person !
Reliable, made in China, NRC certified?
I have 95 dosimeters in the collection and GC-01 at this price I can recommend
Glad you kept some samples. The cup was a surprise. I bought a detector from Russia after Chernobyl popped. In Australia they took a lot longer to remove them gas light sockets from the market. Volkswagen will now sell 3 models of every car: Macron version with alcohol tester and Vladimir version with yellow Fnirsi detector whilst in their home country the nox detector will remain?
until what unit can it be dangerous for human being please ??
You should test on CRT TV!
Od této značky mám vyhlédnutý mini přenosný osciloskop, asi za dvojku nebo za trojku na Alíku
:)
anybody flash a new firmware to this. the first unit i got has a soldered in GM tube but i got a second clip in GM tube and want to change the firmware to take account of the new tube
This video is now outdated because they all now have the less sensitive J613 tube now
Hi Dan!
Looks interesting! I tried to order one but Aliexpress won't let me because I have no phone number to give them.
With a name like that are you sure it wasn't just because of not having a phone number ?????.🤔🤔
With a name like this they should be EAGER to sell me dosimeters :p
Ask a family member.
On ebay with US seller for a few bucks more - got it in 2 days.
At 06:40 I can barely get out of bed but Diode filmed this video starting at 05:40 (02:21 in the vid) 😄
Recording videos at 05 : 40? Hell no :D. The clock just wasn't set properly ;).
omg !!!!!
that cat can talk
20% off on amazon for me right now, its in the mail. :)