Thx Nick, another great tutorial on doing it right. Everybody watching and commenting needs to promote this channel on other stuff they watch. It is criminal to see an under 8K number as a sub total.
There's more than one way to skin a cat. We got lucky with this OEM door handle/latch setup. Sometimes they get pretty cumbersome and don't work no matter how much you try. I appreciate your support! Thanks
So many otherwise beautiful cars are let down by the way the doors close. All those little details may not be noticeable in isolation, but the combination is what gives the "factory" look and feel. First class 😊
Excellent work man, it's all about the details and having things function "transparently" so nobody even notices except for thinking, "Well this is so nice. I can drive it whenever I want." A lot of "flashy" vehicles trade the flash in exchange for function. That's only cool up to a point where you're done with the B.S.
I agree on the slamming of my doors, can not stand it. I defuse my rage by telling whomever did it " hope that lets you out after the accident when we are on fire. Ha ha why won't people ride with me anymore. I'm not up to latches yet , but l have run through it several times in my head. Guess what after seeing what you have done what's in my head it works. Thanks Nick and that foamy thing on the cables is for anti rattle on close and vibes along the road. You know when it has come adrift , on a concrete freeway it is like someone knocking to be let in😳.
One of the biggest complaints the original owners of the Shoebox Fords was their lousy Striker Plate mounting and they would always come loose, so about each month or so I would have to re-adjust the striker plate and tighten up the Phillips head screws with my best fitting screw driver as tight as I could. By switching this whole assembly over to the Infinity system is brilliant. Just brilliant. Nick, you're the man. P.S. This problem was much worse in the Convertibles as the body sagged in the center..
I was wondering how you were going to tackle this. Locating the striker and latch is for sure one of those, measure twice, cut once situations. Well done!
Cue the avalanche of puns. I liked the whole hole episode. It was striking. But it wasn't riveting. (who uses rivets on a door latch?) I was welded to the screen! (only in spots) Another great one Nick. Thanks.
This sure was a super catchy episode. Lots of progress every week. I'm confident Episode 18 will be another doozy...... definitely looking forward to it 👍👍😎👍👍
Hey, Nick, I enjoy watching your videos. I can't wait until you finish the front end of the car, I say the more custom or Mustang inspired the better. Thanks for all your hard work!!
That turned out nice ... again my coupe has the bearclaw latches with the striker on the door and the solinoids in the quarter panel which kept the electrics out of the door ... used negative ground relays so I can put in as many bottons as I want ... works great ... I did notice you using that grinder with a lock on trigger and not using your foot pedal ... I thought we talked about this 🤨 ... commin along great ... make sure you have the elderly gentelman keep an eye on ya ... we don't need any more mistakes 🤓 ...
Definitely have learned a lot from watching your videos. Would you please comment on when you prefer a brand new cut off wheel 'zip disk' as you call it versus one that has been worn down to maybe half the original diameter? Thank you.
New blade for ensuring the cuts are straight/smooth. Smaller diameter blades for going around a tight radius. Check out the rear fascia fabrication video. Thanks for taking the time to watch!
It's amazing how good that turned out Nick. Unmistakable David A. was a cool touch.. nearly fell off my couch 😂 your full of surprises. Keep up the great progress... summer is just around the corner. You think you'll 'get er done?
I wish the latches on my Studebaker were this easy. The passenger side went in but touches the window channel. The driver side has the key lock and it hits the window channel too but sticks out further because of the lock.
This is kind of putting the horse way out in front of the cart...but...do you do your own interior design and upholstery, or will you farm part of it out?
We'll be doing the interior, a stage that isn't too far away. When it comes to the car's design I illustrate just about every aspect before even starting the project. Been dreaming about this build for quite a while now. I'll try to post a sketch of the interior when I get a moment. Thanks for watching Lawrence !!
i think you should have set the lock/latch a little more towards the door skin. you need not flattened the fold strengthener and the striker would not be in. so far more central on the b post. the gap left by moving lock forward. the lock to inner skin could be made up with metal plastic or rubber
But the latch fit so perfectly in the door. It's true, recessing the latch would have meant that reinforcing flange in the door could have been left alone. But the latch fit so perfectly. I think dealing with the striker location is easier and having it closer to the support makes it stronger.
@jackiemay There's always more than one way to get the job done. In this case, adjusting and adding some sheet metal with a new reinforced flange on the edge to blend with the access hole isn't that big of a deal. Getting the latch to operate correctly is a lot more tricky. And as Dan mentioned the strike is mounted close to the vertical structural post which makes it much stronger. Thanks for the thoughts :D
@@iNVisionPrototypes when i have done a lock swap i avoid going into the pinch welds as cutting into that makes the striker more solid on a corner but weakens the monocoque givine a place to tear and fold in a accident i suppose with all you done that ship has sailed
Great content, but one comment. 16:07: Gloves are disposable, hands aren't. Please, put the guard back on the cutoff wheel. I am a CWI, and I can tell you from first hand experience I have three customers that have someone without a thumb because they slipped without a guard (with heavy gloves). There is never a legitimate reason to remove that guard. Carry on!
Nice job 👍 good to see Dad helping you out.
Thanks! He's mostly retired but still hangs out in the shop working on his own projects and working with me on some jobs.
Thanks again for sharing take care.
Thx Nick, another great tutorial on doing it right. Everybody watching and commenting needs to promote this channel on other stuff they watch. It is criminal to see an under 8K number as a sub total.
There's more than one way to skin a cat. We got lucky with this OEM door handle/latch setup. Sometimes they get pretty cumbersome and don't work no matter how much you try. I appreciate your support! Thanks
So many otherwise beautiful cars are let down by the way the doors close.
All those little details may not be noticeable in isolation, but the combination is what gives the "factory" look and feel.
First class 😊
Thank you!
Hi Nick, when I wim the lottery, YOU are building me. a HIGH HP hotrod!
great job
Excellent work man, it's all about the details and having things function "transparently" so nobody even notices except for thinking, "Well this is so nice. I can drive it whenever I want." A lot of "flashy" vehicles trade the flash in exchange for function. That's only cool up to a point where you're done with the B.S.
Yes Sir!! Thanks for the thumbs up.
you never stop surprising me with your talent.
I agree on the slamming of my doors, can not stand it. I defuse my rage by telling whomever did it " hope that lets you out after the accident when we are on fire. Ha ha why won't people ride with me anymore. I'm not up to latches yet , but l have run through it several times in my head. Guess what after seeing what you have done what's in my head it works. Thanks Nick and that foamy thing on the cables is for anti rattle on close and vibes along the road. You know when it has come adrift , on a concrete freeway it is like someone knocking to be let in😳.
So true!
Ahh... The screwdriver nobody loves... An essential piece of every home workshop....
One of the biggest complaints the original owners of the Shoebox Fords was their lousy Striker Plate mounting and they would always come loose, so about each month or so I would have to re-adjust the striker plate and tighten up the Phillips head screws with my best fitting screw driver as tight as I could. By switching this whole assembly over to the Infinity system is brilliant. Just brilliant. Nick, you're the man. P.S. This problem was much worse in the Convertibles as the body sagged in the center..
Thank you Richard!
I was wondering how you were going to tackle this. Locating the striker and latch is for sure one of those, measure twice, cut once situations. Well done!
👍
Yes a 1963 Chevrolet Nova SS convertible.
Cheers
Stephen
Brilliant!
Thanks, I try my best.
Cue the avalanche of puns. I liked the whole hole episode. It was striking. But it wasn't riveting. (who uses rivets on a door latch?) I was welded to the screen! (only in spots) Another great one Nick. Thanks.
LOL!! I see I have a ways to go with my puns. :) Sorry, to tired to think of something at the moment. Thanks for watching Dan!
This sure was a super catchy episode. Lots of progress every week. I'm confident Episode 18 will be another doozy...... definitely looking forward to it 👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks buddy! Ep. 18 same time ... same place :D Cheers!
Hey, Nick, I enjoy watching your videos. I can't wait until you finish the front end of the car, I say the more custom or Mustang inspired the better. Thanks for all your hard work!!
Thanks Dwayne!
nice work , try a piece of masking tape on striker, gently close to check clearance, as the claw touches it will mark the tape . Keep em come ing,
Thanks for the tip Shane! Putty also works when one is in a bind.
That turned out nice ... again my coupe has the bearclaw latches with the striker on the door and the solinoids in the quarter panel which kept the electrics out of the door ... used negative ground relays so I can put in as many bottons as I want ... works great ... I did notice you using that grinder with a lock on trigger and not using your foot pedal ... I thought we talked about this 🤨 ... commin along great ... make sure you have the elderly gentelman keep an eye on ya ... we don't need any more mistakes 🤓 ...
With the striker on the door ... really gives things a nice clean look! Thanks for watching Joe
Nice!!!!
Thanks man!
Definitely have learned a lot from watching your videos. Would you please comment on when you prefer a brand new cut off wheel 'zip disk' as you call it versus one that has been worn down to maybe half the original diameter? Thank you.
New blade for ensuring the cuts are straight/smooth. Smaller diameter blades for going around a tight radius. Check out the rear fascia fabrication video. Thanks for taking the time to watch!
It's amazing how good that turned out Nick. Unmistakable David A. was a cool touch.. nearly fell off my couch 😂 your full of surprises. Keep up the great progress... summer is just around the corner. You think you'll 'get er done?
That's the goal! Thanks for the thumbs up!
Quality work as usual Nick! 👍🏻
Thank you!
I wish the latches on my Studebaker were this easy. The passenger side went in but touches the window channel. The driver side has the key lock and it hits the window channel too but sticks out further because of the lock.
Hi Terry, Sometimes a guy gets lucky. Other times it can be a real chore to find something that works. Thanks for watching!
Great progress! As long as you're in latch town, would be interesting to see if you have any creative thoughts for the keys themselves.
Cable run to an undisclosed key cylinder location that actuates with lock/unlock perhaps? Thanks for the thumbs up!
I like it… now stop interrupting me so I can watch the rest 😉🇦🇺
:D
Nice job Nick, thanks for sharing your videos! I'm looking forward to seeing it in N.F.
Thanks Tom!
Excellent approach!
Thanks!
This is kind of putting the horse way out in front of the cart...but...do you do your own interior design and upholstery, or will you farm part of it out?
We'll be doing the interior, a stage that isn't too far away. When it comes to the car's design I illustrate just about every aspect before even starting the project. Been dreaming about this build for quite a while now. I'll try to post a sketch of the interior when I get a moment. Thanks for watching Lawrence !!
Great progress!
Thank you!!
Using aS many old parts from the infinity makes it easier to source replacements if necessary, will u also use the. Power lock actuaitors?
Exactly, we're using everything INFINITI when it comes to the electrical system.
actuators? Will need that part to prevent it rubbing against the glass when down
Hi Mitch, there will be a mount created for that later what will incorporate a new strengthening flange. Thanks for watching!!
Could us some help with the Nova. How do I get ahold of you.? I am in Burlington. Just down the road from you.
Cheers
Send me an email with your # to sales@invisionprototypes.com Thanks
Do you send your body panels out to be professionally stripped?
If who does it?
Cheers
Yes, we have a guy who is exceptional in the art of media blasting. Used to do aircraft. Are you working on a project?
i think you should have set the lock/latch a little more towards the door skin. you need not flattened the fold strengthener and the striker would not be in. so far more central on the b post. the gap left by moving lock forward. the lock to inner skin could be made up with metal plastic or rubber
But the latch fit so perfectly in the door. It's true, recessing the latch would have meant that reinforcing flange in the door could have been left alone. But the latch fit so perfectly. I think dealing with the striker location is easier and having it closer to the support makes it stronger.
@jackiemay There's always more than one way to get the job done. In this case, adjusting and adding some sheet metal with a new reinforced flange on the edge to blend with the access hole isn't that big of a deal. Getting the latch to operate correctly is a lot more tricky. And as Dan mentioned the strike is mounted close to the vertical structural post which makes it much stronger. Thanks for the thoughts :D
@@iNVisionPrototypes when i have done a lock swap i avoid going into the pinch welds as cutting into that makes the striker more solid on a corner but weakens the monocoque givine a place to tear and fold in a accident i suppose with all you done that ship has sailed
Great content, but one comment. 16:07: Gloves are disposable, hands aren't. Please, put the guard back on the cutoff wheel. I am a CWI, and I can tell you from first hand experience I have three customers that have someone without a thumb because they slipped without a guard (with heavy gloves). There is never a legitimate reason to remove that guard. Carry on!
Good point, better be safe than sorry. Thanks for watching Eric!
I don't like it, it sounds easy... too easy.
It is what it is and in this case things work out rather well. Thanks for watching Chris!
'Easy' comes from experience ....