The Wolff Sharpening Shop will be in Reno NV October 24th-26th and will cover a range of professional sharpening topics including knives, scissors, and clipper blades just to name a few. wolffindustries.com/pages/the-sharpening-show
Cliff! Watching you’re vids this last year has improved my business 10 fold! Thanks for sharing your experience and I wish I could order some of your products but shipping would be too expensive for me! But keep doing your work! I’m learning new things with every video you post
Found your channel very interesting. Started collecting knives about 5 years ago. But always uses a stone for sharping. Since seeing your channel, it has inched me closer to buying a belt sander. Bought a nice one a dremel model 1731 from an estate sale. I'm going to try your teaching on some basic knives to get better at the craft. Thank you, and keep up the great work. Again, I enjoy the channel.
Cliff, you're the leading autority on belt sharpening I think. I have noticed the critisism of belt sharpening myself. The one tormek guy does what seems like good work but hes awfully critical for no reason. Theres a ton of ways to get to a good result. I prefer belt I think too, but im an amature.
the biggest critisism that gets held up is the temper/heat damage. Its used by whetstone and tormek users and a low hanging fruit to elevate themselves above the savage belt user. However I can make a video at anytime that will dispell these false claims and maybe just maybe soon it will be done. :)
@@CurryCustomCutlery Lay it on us cliff. The axe community is kinda like that too, no doubt you could certainly do it but it would take some amount of carelessness. I enjoy using stones too but not to the point of being elitist about it and tormeks do look like fun but not for the price of entry and the fact that they really only do just the one thing. My belt grinder is a workhorse in my shop for all manner of grinding tasks.
I wasn’t a believer in the belt sander / angle guide method until I tried it. It works great. Now I’m a convert. But I also still use whetstones, a Tormek, and Edge Pro guided systems. Turns out all of them work well for different blades/situations.
Thanks Cliff! People overthink sharpening……bring two edges together…..certainly less complicated than the custom engines I built for 30 + yrs……….which is why I love it…….and my hair is getting darker and fuller😎
I was reading something shortly after the first time I viewed this video about the Cold Steel knife seen here. Cold Steel made some knives for the CIA at that time without identifying marks on them. The one shown here was likely one of them.
Average out to about 16°...2nd step is just a fraction higher at 16.5°. these are prototypes that will be available I hope soon and will work as a bolt on upgrade with the existing guide everyone owns.
@@CurryCustomCutlery very interested in this prototype. also...i may have to try this half degreee increase on my second step. anything to help burr removal would be great.
Thanks for keeping the ken onion belts in stock and available. Cant find 1x18 trizacts anywhere but you. Ive just started my mobile sharpening business and your tips have been nothing but helpful!
@@CurryCustomCutlery that would be awesome! I'm using a set of leather belts for it currently, but I've noticed they tend to wobble a bit. Even after oiling and breaking them in. Definitely wouldn't mind something a bit more pliable!!
Do you have a video of you going over your entire process in detail? Explaining the belts, wheels and grits of everything? I need to know what to buy 😅.
Two things: can you at some point talk about how you set the angle guide on the first and then the second angle you use? Last: please send me information for the lights on the buffers. If you have a website link,please include it. Thank you.
Biggest ones are edge angle and behind the edge thickness coming down from the primary grind to where it teansitions into the secondary bevel or actual cutting edge. For kitchen knives it is generally recommended to have them be .005"-.010" behind the edge thickness. I have found doing convex grinds help as well and then figuring out the art of thinning knives. It will massively transform the cutting experience and make a completely dull knife feel sharp as per Outdoor55's video "Knife Sharpness is weird" which was based off his friend Steve Callari's work. The main thing to remember is that you are trying figure out at what edge angle the knives will hold the most stable edge that will cut the longest, while giving the best resistance to chipping and deformation, and yielding the best cutting performance. This is why a well made custom or japanese chefs knife is amazing to use, because they are at about or under that .010" behind the edge thickness. Depending on the knife and application you may need to change the edge angle, but generally the less material behind the cutting edge the better. You are trying to find the best combination of behind the edge thickness and secondary edge angles to maximise a knifes performance for any given task. One way you can sorta cheat if it is starting to get thicker as you get higher up into a blade is doing a more acute edge angle to get the thickness down and then doing a microbevel at 15°+ depending on the knife. This is why it can be nice to do a convex edge as they also help with cutting performance by decreasing cutting resistance by removing the shoulders at the top of the secondary bevel and making a smoother transition. Hope this helps! Sincerely, JS
A caveat that should have been added before is that having it be thin like that does typically from what I have seen require it to be at least 56+ HRC like in Vosteeds Stallion series, which comes down to .010" behind the edge and then usually higher say 60+ HRC. There are people like Big Brown Bear that have had excellent success getting their knives to 63+ HRC and then going down .010" behind the edge thickness on their outdoor knives and still having good resistance to deformation and even chipping on a nail chop. With all this being said, it is just a bit of extra info, and I think Cliffs short clip is about perfect in summing up all the important stuff. Sincerely, JS
That is a prototype of my own version of the angle guide I hope to have completed soon. I believe I was the first to notch one out on video about 7yrs ago.
I have a how to video on that here on RUclips. Parts are here: shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/sharpening-accessories/products/1-2-inch-radius-diamond-serration-wheel
@PatriotEdge $100 wood dust blower, $100 in ducting, put exhaust outside, $100 in ply for dust cabinets, runs on solar charged batteries, works for me, I can do knives considerably quicker than a wet grinder, thus my hourly rate is much much higher so the $300 I invested in my dust extraction is probably paid for in one day, so that was ten years ago, little to no dust, plus extraction fans on windows which run on solar, your costing is moot.
@PatriotEdge perhaps you just didn't like someone making your point moot, yeh my first reaction is he needs dust extraction, which he may or may not do, I just pointed out it could be done very cheaply and effectively, putting someone in a place to make a considerably higher hourly rate than using a slow wet grinder, this higher hourly rate would pay for the dust extraction very quickly, while someone using a wet grinder would be stuck using a slow inefficient system that is costing them lost production when compared to a linisher, multiple that lost production over a years work and you'll see how much money or free time you will be losing, it's a dumb machine to use if you want to make money 🤷
The Wolff Sharpening Shop will be in Reno NV October 24th-26th and will cover a range of professional sharpening topics including knives, scissors, and clipper blades just to name a few.
wolffindustries.com/pages/the-sharpening-show
See you there.
any idea when the belt bundles will be back in stock?
Great to see you back Cliff!
Curry Custom Cutlery, cool video you deserve more subscribers
I appreciate it!
Cliff! Watching you’re vids this last year has improved my business 10 fold! Thanks for sharing your experience and I wish I could order some of your products but shipping would be too expensive for me! But keep doing your work! I’m learning new things with every video you post
larger orders offset the cost of shipping in a one time deal. We ship around the World in a daily basis now.
Found your channel very interesting. Started collecting knives about 5 years ago. But always uses a stone for sharping. Since seeing your channel, it has inched me closer to buying a belt sander. Bought a nice one a dremel model 1731 from an estate sale. I'm going to try your teaching on some basic knives to get better at the craft. Thank you, and keep up the great work. Again, I enjoy the channel.
Cliff, you're the leading autority on belt sharpening I think. I have noticed the critisism of belt sharpening myself. The one tormek guy does what seems like good work but hes awfully critical for no reason. Theres a ton of ways to get to a good result. I prefer belt I think too, but im an amature.
the biggest critisism that gets held up is the temper/heat damage. Its used by whetstone and tormek users and a low hanging fruit to elevate themselves above the savage belt user.
However I can make a video at anytime that will dispell these false claims and maybe just maybe soon it will be done. :)
@@CurryCustomCutlery Lay it on us cliff. The axe community is kinda like that too, no doubt you could certainly do it but it would take some amount of carelessness. I enjoy using stones too but not to the point of being elitist about it and tormeks do look like fun but not for the price of entry and the fact that they really only do just the one thing. My belt grinder is a workhorse in my shop for all manner of grinding tasks.
I wasn’t a believer in the belt sander / angle guide method until I tried it. It works great. Now I’m a convert. But I also still use whetstones, a Tormek, and Edge Pro guided systems. Turns out all of them work well for different blades/situations.
Right on
As a 40 plus yr knife maker/collector I do believe you know your stuff, those blades will cut three different ways, long, deep and continuous!
Thanks Cliff!
People overthink sharpening……bring two edges together…..certainly less complicated than the custom engines I built for 30 + yrs……….which is why I love it…….and my hair is getting darker and fuller😎
I used to overthink it too...
Respect! I’ve been watching you for year! 👍👍
Awesome! Thank you!
I like the looks of the angle guide your using. I hope it becomes available.
shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/sharpening-accessories/products/angle-guide
I was reading something shortly after the first time I viewed this video about the Cold Steel knife seen here. Cold Steel made some knives for the CIA at that time without identifying marks on them. The one shown here was likely one of them.
what angles are your guides on step 1 and step 2? also, is your angle guide longer than what you sell on your site?
Average out to about 16°...2nd step is just a fraction higher at 16.5°. these are prototypes that will be available I hope soon and will work as a bolt on upgrade with the existing guide everyone owns.
@@CurryCustomCutlery very interested in this prototype. also...i may have to try this half degreee increase on my second step. anything to help burr removal would be great.
Great stuff! Just found your channel and this is so inspiring!
Glad if it can help....Im just paying it forward
Thanks for keeping the ken onion belts in stock and available. Cant find 1x18 trizacts anywhere but you. Ive just started my mobile sharpening business and your tips have been nothing but helpful!
We may have a new thinner material felt belt for stropping that maybe will work with the KO 1x18 come up soon'
@@CurryCustomCutlery that would be awesome! I'm using a set of leather belts for it currently, but I've noticed they tend to wobble a bit. Even after oiling and breaking them in. Definitely wouldn't mind something a bit more pliable!!
Do you have a video of you going over your entire process in detail? Explaining the belts, wheels and grits of everything? I need to know what to buy 😅.
I have several videos where as I use them I explain but I am making a dedicated video VERY soon!!!
@CurryCustomCutlery hoo boy that's good news. Thank you, can't wait.
I love watching you work!
Great shop!
This is Shop 2.0 being setup still....we had to relocate so rebuilding. Next will be dust collection again
What machine do you recommend for someone just getting started with a limited budget?
bucktool 1x30 1750 rpm machine
Two things: can you at some point talk about how you set the angle guide on the first and then the second angle you use? Last: please send me information for the lights on the buffers. If you have a website link,please include it. Thank you.
Here is the link to my Amazon page where I have highlighted all the best things I use
www.amazon.com/shop/currycustomcutlery
Enjoyed this video. What factors determine the bevel width? If the sharpener determines that then when would you choose a wide vs a thinner bevel?
Biggest ones are edge angle and behind the edge thickness coming down from the primary grind to where it teansitions into the secondary bevel or actual cutting edge. For kitchen knives it is generally recommended to have them be .005"-.010" behind the edge thickness. I have found doing convex grinds help as well and then figuring out the art of thinning knives. It will massively transform the cutting experience and make a completely dull knife feel sharp as per Outdoor55's video "Knife Sharpness is weird" which was based off his friend Steve Callari's work. The main thing to remember is that you are trying figure out at what edge angle the knives will hold the most stable edge that will cut the longest, while giving the best resistance to chipping and deformation, and yielding the best cutting performance. This is why a well made custom or japanese chefs knife is amazing to use, because they are at about or under that .010" behind the edge thickness. Depending on the knife and application you may need to change the edge angle, but generally the less material behind the cutting edge the better. You are trying to find the best combination of behind the edge thickness and secondary edge angles to maximise a knifes performance for any given task. One way you can sorta cheat if it is starting to get thicker as you get higher up into a blade is doing a more acute edge angle to get the thickness down and then doing a microbevel at 15°+ depending on the knife. This is why it can be nice to do a convex edge as they also help with cutting performance by decreasing cutting resistance by removing the shoulders at the top of the secondary bevel and making a smoother transition.
Hope this helps!
Sincerely,
JS
Which Bevel angle is the best for durability vs. sharpness?
A caveat that should have been added before is that having it be thin like that does typically from what I have seen require it to be at least 56+ HRC like in Vosteeds Stallion series, which comes down to .010" behind the edge and then usually higher say 60+ HRC. There are people like Big Brown Bear that have had excellent success getting their knives to 63+ HRC and then going down .010" behind the edge thickness on their outdoor knives and still having good resistance to deformation and even chipping on a nail chop. With all this being said, it is just a bit of extra info, and I think Cliffs short clip is about perfect in summing up all the important stuff.
Sincerely,
JS
Did that longer angle guide ever go into effect?
Is 1000 grit usually where you deburr? ive notice i have a hard time feeling a burr past 600-800. It that just me or is it the grit?
edge leading witht he guide there is no real burr to feel but it can be seen
Thank you Cliff. Like all your videos, well done and informative.
Very welcome I tend to sharpen in the 2000rpm range
Will you be selling any of the flat flange washers for bench grinders
hardware store is where I get my fender washers etc
Did you notch out that angle guide? great video
That is a prototype of my own version of the angle guide I hope to have completed soon. I believe I was the first to notch one out on video about 7yrs ago.
@@CurryCustomCutlery Hope you will have those for sale soon.
How many years passed from the first fairs to your own salon?
Maybe 4?
would love do and donts of buffing wheels ? i gave been cut with knives on buffing wheels twice.
yeah maybe the most dangerous tool in the shop. I will do a video
What angle do you keep it at 17- 19degree?
I prefer a bit lower 15ish
Always excellent entertainment and useful info. Much respect 🙏 👊
I’m sure you’ve mentioned it in other videos but what belt grinder are you using.
Rikon 50-161 variable speed models turned all the way down to about 2000rpm
Great video. Please lower the volume of the background music.
Yep longer videos will no longer have background music. My kid was helping me out editing ;)
Where did you buy the parts to make the serration wheel ?
I have a how to video on that here on RUclips.
Parts are here:
shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/sharpening-accessories/products/1-2-inch-radius-diamond-serration-wheel
Id like to see how you do a scandi grind.
angle match edge trailing on a platten that is horizontal
Is the blue compound you use is the same Japanese compound on your website?
Yes it is. the white cuts a little better but the blue offers a higher luster and less residue
What a stud, wish I was as cool as you
Nice one xx
What’s the grit on that first belt
Cubitron p120
shop.currycustomcutlery.com/collections/belts/products/cubitron-belts
@@CurryCustomCutlery Is the second belt A30? Thanks for your wisdom.
I enjoyed the video except the muzak was a little too loud and distracting at times and adds nothing to the viewing pleasure.
Music noted and adjusted for future vids...sorry about that
nice video :)
Thanks!
The tormek is too slow
Tormek was not made for sharpening junk at farmers markets.
Slow no matter what you sharpen on it 🤷 @K3Flyguy
@PatriotEdge that's why you run a blower on linishers , no dust
@PatriotEdge $100 wood dust blower, $100 in ducting, put exhaust outside, $100 in ply for dust cabinets, runs on solar charged batteries, works for me, I can do knives considerably quicker than a wet grinder, thus my hourly rate is much much higher so the $300 I invested in my dust extraction is probably paid for in one day, so that was ten years ago, little to no dust, plus extraction fans on windows which run on solar, your costing is moot.
@PatriotEdge perhaps you just didn't like someone making your point moot, yeh my first reaction is he needs dust extraction, which he may or may not do, I just pointed out it could be done very cheaply and effectively, putting someone in a place to make a considerably higher hourly rate than using a slow wet grinder, this higher hourly rate would pay for the dust extraction very quickly, while someone using a wet grinder would be stuck using a slow inefficient system that is costing them lost production when compared to a linisher, multiple that lost production over a years work and you'll see how much money or free time you will be losing, it's a dumb machine to use if you want to make money 🤷