My mosfet in my cm.621 stopped working on its 5th field day, on tear down the micro switch had broken on the mosfet, i was running 9.6v nimh 1600mah battery and the solder on the blue cable that cyma had spliced into the live from the mosfet had come loose . So i replaced with just a mechanical basic "modify" trigger switch assembly with no mosfet, but now watching this i wish i had gone for a cyma one as had to adjust slightly to make it fit but its in and working. Great videos Pheas keep it going!
i had a cyma MOSFET crap out after a month or so of regular use on a 9.6. ironically, i decided to replace it with a g&g etu and it actually works super nice!
The Cyma mosfets/microswitches tend to give up after a while. The most common problem with all the guns that I've worked on revolves around the microswitch contacts which are really fragile and tend to snap if you abuse the trigger constantly. Sure, that mosfet can take a beating but will go down after the third round when using a high voltage battery.
Can you please help me Pheas, i did the same thing today to my cm.098 installing traditional trigger contacts and a merf 3.2, but the cm.098 doesn't have this traditional selector plate as yours in the video, it has a weird metallic one, result was that it now shoots only in full auto no matter what fire mode i use. I programmed the merf into enhanced semi/burst and i set the rof to 70%, and burst speed to 96ms (fastest). It now shoots 1 round in both semi and auto mode which is exactly what i wanted since this is a DMR build, but i am still not sure i did a correct installation...
Thanks for takimg my fear away there in the end if the video i was reading doomsday things but they were from seven years ago ill be using 8,4 nimH so i guess i should be fine ?
Hello Pheas I got a cm621 and had an issue with that microswitch, so I decide to follow your lead and replace it with mechanical switch and a mosfet, I use x-asr mosfet and shs trigger switch and new wires, I connect and everything correct and try it, and worked. Then when everything was assembled except motor I had an accident and cut the motor tab, so I solder the positive wire directly to the wire. When I tried again if working, the motor was spinning when I pull the trigger and continue as I release the trigger, when press again motor stopped. Mosfet LED flushes green while shooting, now sometime is working normally and some as before, any help? Looking forward for your reply, thank you in advance!
Hello.... there is so much to unpack here... I would have thought that initiall.... maybe an off / dry solder joint? Is the wiring damaged anywhere else? Pheas
Really contemplating getting a CYMA AK74U but I would want to get a mosfet fitted, would one of these go in there?. Ideally want to plug and play without having to tear bits apart. I want to run it on 11.1v batteries. Any advice is perfect, I am a complete noob with all of this tech stuff!.
you have to solder wires to trigger contacts anyway for external one. It can be done on AK from the outside of the gearbox tho. I'd still recommend Gate Aster v3 or Perun Hybrid, they replace the crappy AK contacts with sensors and work much better.
Helli again Pheas, I wanted to ask a serious question though, I am new to mosfets and didn't want to spend a ton on something I just need for a gun I plink around the house with. I was thinking about the perun hybrid or the gate aster. My gun is cyma 097 platinum and was double shooting out the box on semi and died after 4 mags run through it with an 11.1 lipo. I was quite disappointed. I'm looking for something simple not really a merf but something simple and easy to install that'll last on 11.1 lipos and won't double shoot on semi. I don't feather the trigger. Can you give me any advice on a mosfet? Thanks so much
Hello! You need to find an active breaking mosfet in that case, If its double shooting on semi due to over spin, then active break is what you need. Gate do the Nano hard which is active breaking, and should sort the issue out for you. The AB++ by perun would be a better choice as it has adjustable active break, so you can reduce the amount needed to ONLY the amount needed, this will mean you dont get as much motor heat up (caused by active breaking) and reduced wear on motor (caused by active breaking). But that runs at a very similar price point to the merf, but is better in my opinion. My internet is limited at work to check out more of the perun or gate stuff to see what else there is, but the active break is essential to stop the double shot. Pheas
Cyma mosfets don't die. Microswitches die that are soldered onto them, you can replace them with higher quality ones. I mean they do die but it's no the mosfet itself, it's the microswitch.
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My mosfet in my cm.621 stopped working on its 5th field day, on tear down the micro switch had broken on the mosfet, i was running 9.6v nimh 1600mah battery and the solder on the blue cable that cyma had spliced into the live from the mosfet had come loose . So i replaced with just a mechanical basic "modify" trigger switch assembly with no mosfet, but now watching this i wish i had gone for a cyma one as had to adjust slightly to make it fit but its in and working. Great videos Pheas keep it going!
i had a cyma MOSFET crap out after a month or so of regular use on a 9.6. ironically, i decided to replace it with a g&g etu and it actually works super nice!
The Cyma mosfets/microswitches tend to give up after a while. The most common problem with all the guns that I've worked on revolves around the microswitch contacts which are really fragile and tend to snap if you abuse the trigger constantly. Sure, that mosfet can take a beating but will go down after the third round when using a high voltage battery.
it specifically tells people not to use 11.1 lipos
@@hotdogwaterenthusiast I had one crap out using a 9.6 so think about that. It's just a basic mosfet.
@@hotdogwaterenthusiast lol what's the point then
Can you please help me Pheas, i did the same thing today to my cm.098 installing traditional trigger contacts and a merf 3.2, but the cm.098 doesn't have this traditional selector plate as yours in the video, it has a weird metallic one, result was that it now shoots only in full auto no matter what fire mode i use. I programmed the merf into enhanced semi/burst and i set the rof to 70%, and burst speed to 96ms (fastest). It now shoots 1 round in both semi and auto mode which is exactly what i wanted since this is a DMR build, but i am still not sure i did a correct installation...
Thanks for takimg my fear away there in the end if the video i was reading doomsday things but they were from seven years ago ill be using 8,4 nimH so i guess i should be fine ?
Do you have a link for the CYMA trigger switch contact block?
www.bullseyecountrysport.co.uk/cyma-airsoft-trigger-switch-contact-block-for-v2-gearbox-power-control-hy-118-41452-p.asp There you go. Pheas
Hello Pheas I got a cm621 and had an issue with that microswitch, so I decide to follow your lead and replace it with mechanical switch and a mosfet, I use x-asr mosfet and shs trigger switch and new wires, I connect and everything correct and try it, and worked. Then when everything was assembled except motor I had an accident and cut the motor tab, so I solder the positive wire directly to the wire. When I tried again if working, the motor was spinning when I pull the trigger and continue as I release the trigger, when press again motor stopped. Mosfet LED flushes green while shooting, now sometime is working normally and some as before, any help? Looking forward for your reply, thank you in advance!
Hello.... there is so much to unpack here... I would have thought that initiall.... maybe an off / dry solder joint? Is the wiring damaged anywhere else? Pheas
Really contemplating getting a CYMA AK74U but I would want to get a mosfet fitted, would one of these go in there?. Ideally want to plug and play without having to tear bits apart. I want to run it on 11.1v batteries. Any advice is perfect, I am a complete noob with all of this tech stuff!.
you have to solder wires to trigger contacts anyway for external one. It can be done on AK from the outside of the gearbox tho. I'd still recommend Gate Aster v3 or Perun Hybrid, they replace the crappy AK contacts with sensors and work much better.
Helli again Pheas, I wanted to ask a serious question though, I am new to mosfets and didn't want to spend a ton on something I just need for a gun I plink around the house with. I was thinking about the perun hybrid or the gate aster. My gun is cyma 097 platinum and was double shooting out the box on semi and died after 4 mags run through it with an 11.1 lipo. I was quite disappointed. I'm looking for something simple not really a merf but something simple and easy to install that'll last on 11.1 lipos and won't double shoot on semi. I don't feather the trigger. Can you give me any advice on a mosfet?
Thanks so much
Hello! You need to find an active breaking mosfet in that case, If its double shooting on semi due to over spin, then active break is what you need. Gate do the Nano hard which is active breaking, and should sort the issue out for you. The AB++ by perun would be a better choice as it has adjustable active break, so you can reduce the amount needed to ONLY the amount needed, this will mean you dont get as much motor heat up (caused by active breaking) and reduced wear on motor (caused by active breaking). But that runs at a very similar price point to the merf, but is better in my opinion. My internet is limited at work to check out more of the perun or gate stuff to see what else there is, but the active break is essential to stop the double shot. Pheas
Next time please put audio on both channels or change it to mono
Cyma mosfets don't die. Microswitches die that are soldered onto them, you can replace them with higher quality ones.
I mean they do die but it's no the mosfet itself, it's the microswitch.
What exactly happens to the microswitch? Is it repairable or do I need an entirely new microswitch?
but then u loose the micro switch that allows faster semi-auto
#pheasant