great video.. I' been playing forza since the first.. and have always tuned using real world. I wasn't expecting this to work as well as it did on alot of different cards/classes. Thx.
I always tend to be the fastest of the slowest, but there's always 1 or 2 players in the race I just can't catch up with. Hopefully this will help me, thanks man!
Good stuff man, thanks. Now I maybe can catch up with my friend with his "secret" setup, that's "counter intuitive" to real life and is like a "forza special" lol.
Is it not better to crank the acceleration and drop the deceleration? I found it helps rotate the car around really tight corners. Not many tight corners at watkins glen, i usually tune around kyalami. Still learning though
Also depending on the car class maxing your final drive acceleration could slow you down quite a bit if you top out your speed halfway through a straight?
How are you, my friend? Greetings from Brazil, your setup is excellent, the car is very fast and corners excellently. In long-distance races, is there any adjustment to your setup that I could make so that the car wears out less tires?
@@pozzanivideos sorry for late, you can't reduce tyre wear consumption because the game physics is made in such way. However, you can reduce tyre wear by early upshifting(not hitting redline) and avoid engine braking. However doing so will make you much slower than others.
What GT3 car you're trying? I can help you with that. Also, if you experience too much oversteer, meaning your rear end is too loose compared to front end, so you have to either: a) Tighten Front End More or b) Adjust Rear end to match front end Either way, a solution I can give you right now is, go to suspension geometry, Put Roll Center Offset 9.8 for Front, and 0-4 For Rear then try the car, if that didn't work, set: Front Anti Dive to +50 rear Anti Dive to +10 and try. let me know
Thanks for the info will be trying this out. I've been tuning completely differently. Question for you, How should differential be set in FWD and AWD cars?
I will give it a shot. It is a little frustrating when I'm clearly a faster driver and I clearly have tuned my vehicle to be competitive using classical real world strategies which I've studied tremendously and now I see that these guys are beating me because they have removed all downforce from their rear wing and refused to alter their camber/caster toe in/out whereas I spent meticulous time and energy trying to test, tune, test, tune, test, tune my way to a solid camber and toe in. I guess when we're talking about video games, you have to play the game...not try to simulate your way to victory. I think the game became less appealing upon watching this video. Left a bad taste in my mouth tbh.
@@TheGribbleNator I'm terribly sorry for your bitter experience. Although the game is made in a way to replicate real world, gamers will find exploits and loopholes to abuse the mechanics.
Anti-dive and anti-squat very greatly from car to car. Just having all cars use 0 on both would almost always be far from optimal and lose you at least 2-3 tenths per lap.
Like Firedell said, it's definitely a car-by-car basis and you would be amazed at how drastically different the optimal settings for these values will be from car to car. Just using road cars as an example, some of your older RWD cars, especially with a drastic size difference in F&R tires may need anti-squat all the way up in the 50's or higher. Others, will be undriveable with those settings and you could even find some of the more extreme examples running down well into the negatives. There is no set formula here that blankets all cars. This is just something you will have to experiment with and get a feel for the effects it has on each car.
Clutch is a completely useless upgrade, and driveline should also be saved for last, as should the random hood you installed. Flywheel is also useless for class racing 99.9% of the time. Otherwise, the tuning advice is pretty good for the most part.
Clutch is key for using manual with clutch. If you use strictly manual, the shift times are shorter than those with a race clutch especially with sequential. The shift times here is much quicker than compared to manual without the clutch. You don’t even use the clutch pedal when using a race clutch. (Hope that made sense)
@@G37_papii suspension & gearbox tuning remains the same. However for sport, street or stock tires i recommend fiddling the values by yourself. First tune the suspension & gearbox as demonstrated on the video. Keep the standard tyre pressure. Do a lap. Note down your time, check for understeer or oversteer. Then lower the values by 2 or 3 psi. This part is important, if your car does not have excessive oversteer or understeer, and the tyre pressure stock values are sth like this: Front: 29 psi Rear: 36 psi Then lower the pressure but keep the margin default. I.e: 36-29=7 psi difference, so your adjusted tire pressures should also have 5~7 psi difference just like stock tune. Ex: 27 front 33 rear A 6 psi margin from front to rear. Remember this is very important for stock tires if you close the gap to equal values you might face severe understeer or oversteer.
This only works for a 8 min race if it's dry. In a 16 min race or wet this is not a meta tune anymore. Except for cars like the 550 or exo and even a miata struggles on certain tracks with this tune. Sure they are faster in quali and i'm only managing position 4 to 8 with 1.5 seconds off the pace on tracks like glen, but even with the new 4 time degradation setup only the exo can comfortably go the full distance on soft if it's dry. So it depends on the game mode and class. I'm consitantly winning races in multiclass with sport or street tyres even if i'm not the fastest one in quali. If they have to go for hard tyres or if it's wet, there's not even a challenge. I know that means nothing in Forza and especially in non spec class racing but i'm 4990 elo and s-class rating most of the time..
To be fair, ELO doesn't mean squat in this game. I'm at 4950 now, still slowly climbing, but I can't hold a candle to the pace routinely set by raceboy etc. And yeah medium distance races may be less than optimal on race tires, unless you're super light and low on power.
The meta way of tuning makes cars easier to drive and makes your tires overheat less, therefore reducing wear. I'd argue that this way of tuning is actually far *more* important for longer races and wet races instead of short dry races. Also, with the 4x wear in short races now, pretty much all cars can do races on softs with no issues. I win nearly every race with cars that weigh over 3000lbs, and they only get above 50% wear on the last lap, and you lose maybe around half a second at most on that lap compared to if you were using mediums, but you also gain at least 5 seconds by running softs in the first place.
Since forza 1 there is always some glitches in the tune, they used to use the Ebrake glitch , I think the real issue is grip cheats and over all cheats that can be detected, forza 7 had tons of grip cheaters that used to beat everyone !
There's a guy named SEPI who intentionally used grip hack in a Forza League tournament, and he also made a video about it. Cheating was very easy in Forza 7.
@@EESHANDACH thats what I mean , how many great drivers in forza use a grip cheat to get that extra bit of skill, forza should have been added grip data so we know who is going beyond the thresh hold of normal, when we cant tell from just looking!
There's really not anybody cheating on FM8 tbh. Only person I've seen cheating at any point was just a random leaderboard time that has since been removed.
It’s good that the way I do my tunes the only thing different is the braking I lower the brake pressure to 97% and switch the brake bias to 51 or 49 % depending on the car
dude pls send me ur gbox GT we need to be in party, if i drive stock car rivals im like 0.4% top. With a tune to my liking, maybe I could get that everywhere or even better :) ill trade ya 4 drivin tipps ;)
For anyone watching, please be aware this video is misleading and outright wrong in a few places. Part selection: Nobody should buy clutch upgrades. Just as an example, there are other weird choices. Tuning: Ride height minimum is insane and will often lead to either bottoming out or being unable to pass over kerbs. Rear diff accel at 36% is also insanity. The only decent tip in the tuning area is to reduce rear aero as much as you can get away with. Rear aero increases drag and produces understeer; if you can get your stabilty elsewhere, you don't need this drag. Laptimes here are also most influenced by the actual line driven. The "untuned" line misses some apexes so badly there's room for two more cars there. Driving a longer distance naturally produces a slower lap. There are some weird things about Forza tuning but this ain't it chief.
None of what you mentioned is a hard and fast rule... While clutch upgrades are typically not PI efficient, there are specific builds that end up 1-2 PI off max, and in those cases you'll use the clutch to fill the gap because there's nothing else left. I don't know where you're getting your tuning info from, but that's just not correct... You run minimum ride height whenever possible, and there aren't many cars where to you have to raise it. The lap time gain is more than worth any trade-off on curbs. I don't understand your comment about the diff, either... 36 is a completely arbitrary value, and when considering the wide variety of cars in the game, anything from 0 to 100 has been used at least once in a competitive setup. I don't think you understand what the diff actually does based on your comments... Also, min rear aero isn't always the way to go. If you run power builds or higher class cars with a lot of downforce, those cars rely on the aero for cornering performance and lap time. If you're in GT or TC, sure, rip the aero off, but that's not optimal for a significant number of cars. Overall I'd say the guy posting the video has a better understanding than you 🤷♂️
this is what I hate about the internet. Dude makes a video saying something commentator A says it's BS and commentator B comes and says commentator A is saying nonsense. People opening their mouth because their ego tells them to, not because they have knowledge. Now who am I gonna believe?
@@polar_inertia We had a similar discussion in another comment, basically if you are applying real world theories in this game it won't work due to game physics, this video is a direct contradictory of IRL. For example: We all know that short tracks with narrow straights and corners require you to have more rear downforce, yes we all know that, but does that apply to Forza 8? No, why? Because of the game physics. This video is just straight up abusing & exploiting Forza physics. As for your last part of the question, you can believe once you apply my tuning guide values and check it out, you don't necessarily need to apply these mechanics in Open class cars, you can follow the same principles for Forza GT/Forza TC spec racing. Try it out and let me know. Wishing you good luck.
You don’t know what you’re talking about it… Ride height always minimum, but if you notice in the video he said “If you are too low or car bottoms out, you can raise the front end a bit to help out” which is true for a few tracks on the game. The Diff settings.. Every high caliber car in this game from the GT, LMP, and F1 the default diff setting is around 36-49% which is very reasonable these cars are not running 70-100% they don’t need to, it’s also very big on player preference, some can manage it others can not but 36% is very good on a lot of tunes. If you actually try these tuning yourself the lap times do make a huge jump. Sure he only ran 2-3 laps in the video but that’s just for the video sake. I’m sure offline he runs laps on the base build, and after he finally gets his benchmark or fastest time I’m sure he tunes it like in this video or his own preference and runs laps until he beats his benchmark or gets his fastest time set aswell. Yes lap times are based off driving performance but in my own experience this type of tuning has improved my lap times and if I spot something off or that can be tweaked I adjust if need be. It’s a “base tune” not a final tune.
Nothing in my game is modded which affects car performance, if you are referring to the tyre mods, you can download it yourself, these are just visual mods which you just copy and paste in the game directory, if these mods were affecting my cars performance (let's say Grip, downforce) then I'd be banned immediately. here's the link to the tyre visual mod www.nexusmods.com/forzamotorsport/mods/26 you can use it yourself, just copy and paste Also, everytime the game updates, it will overwrite to the stock file so you need to re-copy paste again
@@Artiick 🤣🤣 Artiick my friend, this video is linked to a guide in Steam (PC) community. People over steam have zero idea how tuning works and almost 90% of Steam players are new to the Forza Motorsport (not horizon) franchise. I wanted to provide them with a basic idea of how to be faster since these players are absolutely new and paid 60-100 dollars for this game(Steam does not have gamepass).
He probado el tune que has aplicado como ejemplo en el Ford GT 2005 y va muy fino y bien el coche ,muy agradecido ...no soy bueno afinando coches y me gusta ver,probar y comparar ...me gustaría preguntarte si te prestarías a facilitar algun tune de algún vehículo de Forza que merezca la pena que te pueda pedir u ofrecer tú mismo ,podría ?
great video.. I' been playing forza since the first.. and have always tuned using real world. I wasn't expecting this to work as well as it did on alot of different cards/classes. Thx.
I always tend to be the fastest of the slowest, but there's always 1 or 2 players in the race I just can't catch up with. Hopefully this will help me, thanks man!
@@nickvicious295 you're welcome. Let me know if you need further support, I'm on avg faster than 90% players.
Thank you very much my friend, instantly solved my overheating issue
I am very thankful for this video. as someone who does know have any knowledge in Tuning , I feel always like a second class player in the game :(
You should start making tuning videos man great work !
Good stuff man, thanks. Now I maybe can catch up with my friend with his "secret" setup, that's "counter intuitive" to real life and is like a "forza special" lol.
this helped me out on my Infiniti g35, this video has solved my over heating tires thanks bud!
By the time I started the race in multiplayer the race was finished.. it took them 1 minute and me 1 hour.
Hahaha, almost. Not quite mate. You gunna have minimum rear wing on a maple valley tune in R class?
1hours 🤣.
Haha its just 1min50sec. Nice video i sub.
Well its ai speech
Is it not better to crank the acceleration and drop the deceleration? I found it helps rotate the car around really tight corners. Not many tight corners at watkins glen, i usually tune around kyalami. Still learning though
Also depending on the car class maxing your final drive acceleration could slow you down quite a bit if you top out your speed halfway through a straight?
100/0 for sure. But when your throttlle controll aint all that a low value is saver.
How are you, my friend? Greetings from Brazil, your setup is excellent, the car is very fast and corners excellently. In long-distance races, is there any adjustment to your setup that I could make so that the car wears out less tires?
@@pozzanivideos sorry for late, you can't reduce tyre wear consumption because the game physics is made in such way. However, you can reduce tyre wear by early upshifting(not hitting redline) and avoid engine braking. However doing so will make you much slower than others.
I did this with a gt3 car and it has so much oversteer is this only for like street cars?
What GT3 car you're trying? I can help you with that.
Also, if you experience too much oversteer, meaning your rear end is too loose compared to front end, so you have to either:
a) Tighten Front End More or
b) Adjust Rear end to match front end
Either way, a solution I can give you right now is, go to suspension geometry,
Put Roll Center Offset 9.8 for Front, and 0-4 For Rear
then try the car, if that didn't work, set:
Front Anti Dive to +50
rear Anti Dive to +10 and try.
let me know
So, quick question. I race mostly in the GT2 and GT3 spec series. Can i apply this tuning strategy to the GT race cars too?
@@geovannymoya9474 yes. This whole concept of tuning is collected from GT and TC tuning method.
Hi bro. Can you share setup toyota AE86 (initial D) class C? 🏁
Thanks for the info will be trying this out. I've been tuning completely differently. Question for you, How should differential be set in FWD and AWD cars?
@@christophersharp8892 diff front 100% rear 0%
@@christophersharp8892 hey did your lap time improve after applying these settings
@@EESHANDACH Yeah my lap time has improved tremendously now. Thanks for the video.
@@EESHANDACH Why 100/0 here and 36/16 in the video? Did you mean that 36/16 is for RWD?
@@kil0-KGX yes. Since ive used a RWD car in the video I gave specs for RWD car. 100/0 is used for FWD car since I was asked in the comments.
I will give it a shot. It is a little frustrating when I'm clearly a faster driver and I clearly have tuned my vehicle to be competitive using classical real world strategies which I've studied tremendously and now I see that these guys are beating me because they have removed all downforce from their rear wing and refused to alter their camber/caster toe in/out whereas I spent meticulous time and energy trying to test, tune, test, tune, test, tune my way to a solid camber and toe in.
I guess when we're talking about video games, you have to play the game...not try to simulate your way to victory. I think the game became less appealing upon watching this video. Left a bad taste in my mouth tbh.
@@TheGribbleNator I'm terribly sorry for your bitter experience. Although the game is made in a way to replicate real world, gamers will find exploits and loopholes to abuse the mechanics.
@EESHANDACH yes well, that's the nature of any online multiplayer game it seems. Especially so in competitive games.
same here. you get in the game expecting to have an experience similar to real life but it's all game engine exploitation at the top.
Don’t forget the secrets of the 1F 40R abr.
Some things are best left unsaid XD
What exactly do you mean? I'm new to this.
zero values on anti dive and anti squat typically benefit the car by giving it quicker and more stable corner exit
Anti-dive and anti-squat very greatly from car to car.
Just having all cars use 0 on both would almost always be far from optimal and lose you at least 2-3 tenths per lap.
Like Firedell said, it's definitely a car-by-car basis and you would be amazed at how drastically different the optimal settings for these values will be from car to car. Just using road cars as an example, some of your older RWD cars, especially with a drastic size difference in F&R tires may need anti-squat all the way up in the 50's or higher. Others, will be undriveable with those settings and you could even find some of the more extreme examples running down well into the negatives. There is no set formula here that blankets all cars. This is just something you will have to experiment with and get a feel for the effects it has on each car.
Clutch is a completely useless upgrade, and driveline should also be saved for last, as should the random hood you installed. Flywheel is also useless for class racing 99.9% of the time.
Otherwise, the tuning advice is pretty good for the most part.
Clutch is key for using manual with clutch. If you use strictly manual, the shift times are shorter than those with a race clutch especially with sequential. The shift times here is much quicker than compared to manual without the clutch. You don’t even use the clutch pedal when using a race clutch. (Hope that made sense)
Are these setting good for sport tires build/tune?
@@G37_papii suspension & gearbox tuning remains the same. However for sport, street or stock tires i recommend fiddling the values by yourself.
First tune the suspension & gearbox as demonstrated on the video. Keep the standard tyre pressure. Do a lap. Note down your time, check for understeer or oversteer. Then lower the values by 2 or 3 psi.
This part is important, if your car does not have excessive oversteer or understeer, and the tyre pressure stock values are sth like this:
Front: 29 psi
Rear: 36 psi
Then lower the pressure but keep the margin default.
I.e: 36-29=7 psi difference, so your adjusted tire pressures should also have 5~7 psi difference just like stock tune.
Ex: 27 front
33 rear
A 6 psi margin from front to rear.
Remember this is very important for stock tires if you close the gap to equal values you might face severe understeer or oversteer.
Will this work for low class car like Nissan Silvia?
@@szymon_adamczuk the tuning methodology will work on all classes apart from P class & X class.
Bro, the stickers on your tires is a mod ?
Yes. It's a mod. I'm on pc.
This only works for a 8 min race if it's dry. In a 16 min race or wet this is not a meta tune anymore. Except for cars like the 550 or exo and even a miata struggles on certain tracks with this tune. Sure they are faster in quali and i'm only managing position 4 to 8 with 1.5 seconds off the pace on tracks like glen, but even with the new 4 time degradation setup only the exo can comfortably go the full distance on soft if it's dry. So it depends on the game mode and class. I'm consitantly winning races in multiclass with sport or street tyres even if i'm not the fastest one in quali. If they have to go for hard tyres or if it's wet, there's not even a challenge.
I know that means nothing in Forza and especially in non spec class racing but i'm 4990 elo and s-class rating most of the time..
To be fair, ELO doesn't mean squat in this game. I'm at 4950 now, still slowly climbing, but I can't hold a candle to the pace routinely set by raceboy etc.
And yeah medium distance races may be less than optimal on race tires, unless you're super light and low on power.
@@BSEUNHIR You're right matchmaking isn't existing with such a small player base but with the new game mods a meta isn't existing as well.
The meta way of tuning makes cars easier to drive and makes your tires overheat less, therefore reducing wear.
I'd argue that this way of tuning is actually far *more* important for longer races and wet races instead of short dry races.
Also, with the 4x wear in short races now, pretty much all cars can do races on softs with no issues.
I win nearly every race with cars that weigh over 3000lbs, and they only get above 50% wear on the last lap, and you lose maybe around half a second at most on that lap compared to if you were using mediums, but you also gain at least 5 seconds by running softs in the first place.
Since forza 1 there is always some glitches in the tune, they used to use the Ebrake glitch , I think the real issue is grip cheats and over all cheats that can be detected, forza 7 had tons of grip cheaters that used to beat everyone !
There's a guy named SEPI who intentionally used grip hack in a Forza League tournament, and he also made a video about it. Cheating was very easy in Forza 7.
@@EESHANDACH thats what I mean , how many great drivers in forza use a grip cheat to get that extra bit of skill, forza should have been added grip data so we know who is going beyond the thresh hold of normal, when we cant tell from just looking!
There's really not anybody cheating on FM8 tbh. Only person I've seen cheating at any point was just a random leaderboard time that has since been removed.
This better be worth it after listening to this horrible AI voice.
@@rallyrobx7604 lmao.. Let me know the results
It’s good that the way I do my tunes the only thing different is the braking I lower the brake pressure to 97% and switch the brake bias to 51 or 49 % depending on the car
@@EESHANDACH I have not forgot about this. I have just been lazy.
dude pls send me ur gbox GT we need to be in party, if i drive stock car rivals im like 0.4% top. With a tune to my liking, maybe I could get that everywhere or even better :) ill trade ya 4 drivin tipps ;)
For anyone watching, please be aware this video is misleading and outright wrong in a few places.
Part selection: Nobody should buy clutch upgrades. Just as an example, there are other weird choices.
Tuning: Ride height minimum is insane and will often lead to either bottoming out or being unable to pass over kerbs. Rear diff accel at 36% is also insanity. The only decent tip in the tuning area is to reduce rear aero as much as you can get away with. Rear aero increases drag and produces understeer; if you can get your stabilty elsewhere, you don't need this drag.
Laptimes here are also most influenced by the actual line driven. The "untuned" line misses some apexes so badly there's room for two more cars there. Driving a longer distance naturally produces a slower lap.
There are some weird things about Forza tuning but this ain't it chief.
None of what you mentioned is a hard and fast rule...
While clutch upgrades are typically not PI efficient, there are specific builds that end up 1-2 PI off max, and in those cases you'll use the clutch to fill the gap because there's nothing else left.
I don't know where you're getting your tuning info from, but that's just not correct... You run minimum ride height whenever possible, and there aren't many cars where to you have to raise it. The lap time gain is more than worth any trade-off on curbs.
I don't understand your comment about the diff, either... 36 is a completely arbitrary value, and when considering the wide variety of cars in the game, anything from 0 to 100 has been used at least once in a competitive setup. I don't think you understand what the diff actually does based on your comments...
Also, min rear aero isn't always the way to go. If you run power builds or higher class cars with a lot of downforce, those cars rely on the aero for cornering performance and lap time. If you're in GT or TC, sure, rip the aero off, but that's not optimal for a significant number of cars.
Overall I'd say the guy posting the video has a better understanding than you 🤷♂️
this is what I hate about the internet. Dude makes a video saying something commentator A says it's BS and commentator B comes and says commentator A is saying nonsense. People opening their mouth because their ego tells them to, not because they have knowledge. Now who am I gonna believe?
@@polar_inertia We had a similar discussion in another comment, basically if you are applying real world theories in this game it won't work due to game physics, this video is a direct contradictory of IRL.
For example: We all know that short tracks with narrow straights and corners require you to have more rear downforce, yes we all know that, but does that apply to Forza 8? No, why? Because of the game physics. This video is just straight up abusing & exploiting Forza physics.
As for your last part of the question, you can believe once you apply my tuning guide values and check it out, you don't necessarily need to apply these mechanics in Open class cars, you can follow the same principles for Forza GT/Forza TC spec racing. Try it out and let me know.
Wishing you good luck.
You don’t know what you’re talking about it…
Ride height always minimum, but if you notice in the video he said “If you are too low or car bottoms out, you can raise the front end a bit to help out” which is true for a few tracks on the game.
The Diff settings..
Every high caliber car in this game from the GT, LMP, and F1 the default diff setting is around 36-49% which is very reasonable these cars are not running 70-100% they don’t need to, it’s also very big on player preference, some can manage it others can not but 36% is very good on a lot of tunes.
If you actually try these tuning yourself the lap times do make a huge jump.
Sure he only ran 2-3 laps in the video but that’s just for the video sake. I’m sure offline he runs laps on the base build, and after he finally gets his benchmark or fastest time I’m sure he tunes it like in this video or his own preference and runs laps until he beats his benchmark or gets his fastest time set aswell.
Yes lap times are based off driving performance but in my own experience this type of tuning has improved my lap times and if I spot something off or that can be tweaked I adjust if need be.
It’s a “base tune” not a final tune.
When I saw the braking part I knew something was wrong.
Aero to maximum??? Try that on a Daytona lobby
You forgot to mention that you modded your game. How do we know you didn’t mod the code that affects how your cars drive/handle.
Nothing in my game is modded which affects car performance, if you are referring to the tyre mods, you can download it yourself, these are just visual mods which you just copy and paste in the game directory, if these mods were affecting my cars performance (let's say Grip, downforce) then I'd be banned immediately.
here's the link to the tyre visual mod
www.nexusmods.com/forzamotorsport/mods/26
you can use it yourself, just copy and paste
Also, everytime the game updates, it will overwrite to the stock file so you need to re-copy paste again
Oi Sprinter. TF you doing exposing us Forza Pros hidden cheats 😂
@@Artiick 🤣🤣 Artiick my friend, this video is linked to a guide in Steam (PC) community. People over steam have zero idea how tuning works and almost 90% of Steam players are new to the Forza Motorsport (not horizon) franchise. I wanted to provide them with a basic idea of how to be faster since these players are absolutely new and paid 60-100 dollars for this game(Steam does not have gamepass).
@@EESHANDACH ik ik. I'm just joking lol, don't worry. Good video🙌
Artiick talking like he played Forza other than to just redo Vinyl groups 😂😂😂
He probado el tune que has aplicado como ejemplo en el Ford GT 2005 y va muy fino y bien el coche ,muy agradecido ...no soy bueno afinando coches y me gusta ver,probar y comparar ...me gustaría preguntarte si te prestarías a facilitar algun tune de algún vehículo de Forza que merezca la pena que te pueda pedir u ofrecer tú mismo ,podría ?