Installing Electricity In My Ex-Hoarder Shed!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 фев 2025
- My ex-hoarder shed is quickly transforming into an incredible workshop. We no longer have a muddy driveway, electricity has been installed, and we are almost done lining the inside with metal!
► NEW CORNSTAR CLOTHING: farmfocused.co...
► LIGHTS: www.nwlighting...
► 15% off My Sunglasses: pitviper.biz/c...
► Instagram: / colethecornstar
► Disclosure: I receive a commission on items ordered through the links. Thank you for helping support the channel.
► Business inquiries only: cornhubcole@gmail.com
Cole, I work for a township highway dept in NY. our 5 bay shop has tube heaters and we have found the addition of ceiling fans set to low helps alot during the winter to keep the hot air pushed down and circulating to dry the trucks better after a plow run.
What town? From honeoye falls ny.
Cole, I have been installing heat and air conditioning for 40 years now. I am watching this installation, and it is looking good 👍. The RUclips video approach is not a bad idea. When you are home and have a few minutes, you can get the answers to your questions quickly, and then you can make the most informed decisions about your installation. Every heat system I have installed comes with the installation guide. Between the guide and the RUclips video, you will be surprised with the final results. Don't rush and make every connection carefully. If you have any questions about HVAC and can't find the answers, feel free to reach out to me. I'll give you the best advice I have. I'm also a certified power engineer. I am licensed in electrical, HVAC, plumbing, boiler operations, and generators.
Such a kind offer!
🙋♀️❤
Nice of you, hope Cole sees. 🤗💖
You sir are very generous and thoughtful 😊
It's a good idea to put a couple of fans near the heater tubes to move the hot air around.. we have it in our shop and it works pretty good
Good idea
I just wanna see you finally powerwash the outside of that shop door!
Was thinking the same thing when he was spreading the rock!
So silly but I really miss the “I’m Cole the Cornstar” intro.
It just made me happy. Maybe you could record one as a sound bite for the intro? It’s a fun positive intro.
I've been in several shops with tube heaters...
They work !
The reason they work so well is simple...
It produces heat the length of the pipe & radiates it very well...
A Forced air furnace heats the air blown thru the heat exchanger & warmer air is "attracted to cooler are (physics) .
So the minute the air exits the furnace it mixes with colder air molecules & in a shop this size its no doubt running constantly..
Tube heat distribute hot air the length of the building giving you a more constant temp..
No cold spots ...
Gotta be honest. Never once figured I'd be this entertained by a farminin' channel.
Ideally you should put the heater burner head by the overhead door. The tube will be hottest nearest the burner which will help with the garage door area being the area with most heat loss. You can probably get away with running a lower thermostat setting than 65. Radiant heat often feels warmer at a lower temperature setting.
As a plumber. The gas “collecting well” as you called it can be located right as it comes in the building so long as it is after the last shut off valve to the heater.
It CAN be as soon as it enters but it SHOULD be as close to the device as possible to collect any debris that is in the line flowing to the device.
@@warrenmichael918 this is true. But seeing as that trap looks to be the lowest point in the run. He should be fine.
the last shut off valve needs to be within arm's reach of the unit. It's there for any service work. There also needs to be an electrical shut off within arm's reach of the unit.
I’m hvac we call it a drip leg, what do you call it?
I think you might want to use PVC conduit for the wiring. You can change the knock-out holes in the main breaker box and run the wire out the top. Run the wires out of the breaker box that gives you the straightest path to where you want to go. You can still use the Romex and run multiple lengths in the same conduit. You want to minimize any area where a wire snag is possible or rub against a wire creating a fire hazard.
Cole, I have the same type of heater in my shop and run it at 60-70 degrees and it performs well. Its not as efficient as your forced air furnace but I believe you will like it for the shop. I admire the way you guys tackle these projects.
I've worked in a shop that had that kind of heaters. I noticed that it tends to get uncomfortably warm at the burner end and quite cool at the other end. Something to think about when planning where you are going to work in the shop.
Good job on the wiring Cole. I found it worthwhile to mark the wires in each box something line 'C-in' and 'C-out' or '3in' and '3-out' for instance, and mark that on a diagram for each circuit. For complicated boxes (most boxes actually) I made up a diagram of the wiring and fixtures just to keep it straight while completing the wiring. Good luck!
MY 40 x 75 shop with 18’ ceiling is heated with a 80000 btu 40’ tube heater. I keep the thermostat at 58, but when I temp the floor and items in the shop, the are mostly at 61, 62 degrees. Really satisfied with it.
In our area we would install a tee in both locations the lower one would be for the vertical riser than a second one at the unit to make sure trash doesn’t get to the gas valve but that is our area
We have tube heaters in both of our stations at my local fire department. We keep them set about 60-65 degrees. and it feels warm in there with a sweatshirt on and we have high ceilings in both.
The "collecting well" is a dirt leg and usually you'd put it by the inlet to the burner but if your just pipeing it straight up and 90ing it over you'll be alright leaving it where it is.
Intake ducting for heater/tankless water heaters usually require certain diameters based on how long the run is to the source. 90* Elbows usually count for an increased ln ft count because they restrict flow. A 4" 90* elbow equals 5lnft of ducting. If the manual says you need a 4" duct that can't exceed 16" of run (made up numbers obviously, check with your manufacturer) you could have 1ea 90 elbow and up to 11ft of straight duct. If you step the ducting size up, i.e. 5" or 6" you get increased capacity and can integrate more elbows. The heater manufacturer can tell you what is required for sure.
As for the Drip leg, the black iron for the supply line needs to be pitched towards the wall at no less than .25" per 15ft of run. Code in Iowa (and 99% of the US) says that you need a drip leg wherever condensate can settle. It's usually near to the appliance it's self, but if you pitch the pipe right you could get away with putting it down low where you pointed in the video. It would actually make it a lot easier for you to service, especially if you put the ball valve to shut off supply right infront of it. That way you could turn off the gas, take the cap off the drip leg and let it dry out if needed. Licensed contractor in NJ, but Plumbing code is pretty universal for that type of stuff.
CONGRATS ON YOUR MARRIAGE, SAW NAVA'S SITE SHOWING YOUR WEDDING...ALL THE BEST FOR YOUR FUTURE, MAY IT BE FILLED WITH LAUGHTER AND ADVENTURE..GOD BLESS YOU BOTH
You can also put a private electrical meter on different things and then you can bill the farm for their use. Look into it.
not true. Only a public utility can bill by the Kw. (lots of paperwork from the state) OTOH, you are allowed to agree on a set amount by the week or month to "supply power" which is one way to get paid for the improvements. For instance: if you have ever visited a marina or RV park, they charge a flat fee for power by the size of your hook up. (by the day, week, month) Long term people get their own meter and a bill from the utility.
@@rupe53 that’s not what I’m saying. I’m saying use a private meter to track the kwh because then you can separate the usage and bill the farm for its usage. Let’s say the bill is in coles name and the farm is is incorporated or an llc, then cole can give a bill to that entity for the amount used and he has a record for taxes.
@@TheEggeee2 ... if the same guy owns the far, then you can probably get away with it (internal records) .... but technically (by law) you can't, especially if it's someone else.
Yes the resonator needs to be near the heating unit.
Congrats Nave and Cole, May you have many happy years together and May God Bless you both
I would also install ceiling fans as well.
Those are called sediment traps on yer gas line, should be one before each gas valve.
Awesome to see yer shop looking good@
Oh yes avoid electricity and water! Years ago my fiancé was into CB radios and was putting up a huge antenna on his parents house to help their fleet trucks and for him to play on basically. The sprinkler system had been on and he dropped a bolt off the house. It fell into the garden and I was just going to grab it not giving a second thought to that electric dog wire to keep the dogs out of the garden. I stepped onto the wet concrete and leaned over the fence to grab the bolt. My Elbow hit that wire while standing on wet concrete. He said all he saw was me fly across the back yard and hit the fence. I was 20 or it would have killed me. Burned a hole in my jacket at the elbow and I swear I didn’t stop shaking for 20 minutes or until after we got to the ER. Let’s just say it made quite an impression on me! Oh and I still had my left hand wrapped around the bolt. Took a little pain injection before I let go of that! Lesson learned!
i have ran 2 of the drip legs when doing shops one where it come in to the shop and one by the heater and yes you can run it up and then do 90 over it comes to what you want it to look like
That's pretty cool how you can make that old building look better than when it was brand new, with all the tin and lights and the new heater ! 👍
The dirt leg for the gas line is just fine where you come in as long as you are only setting up from there if you drop down again then you need another dirt leg.
Drip leg must be near the unit. Local code would dictate how far away but it's just best practice to install next to the unit after the shutoff and union. The directions should have pictures to help. Most of those are pulled from the code book anyways
Ha , if they had any code checking on that farm they wouldn't have a bin site falling apart before our eyes
@@robm3063 you aren't wrong. Surely that contractor would have his dealer license revoked
hi, if you already tidy up the whole workshop and make it chic with gravel, then you can also free the gate from the moss so that it is white again
Cole, in Canada we have to have the tee with the dirt nipple right at the appliance. The fresh air should be ok. If it is big enough. Read the manual . It will tell you the particulars.
the rock was major - think about painter's tape for easy cut ins - also think about wago wire connectors - they are slick - the more you do these jobs the better you get - sure you may make some mishtakes but it is worth it - that is how you learn sometimes admittedly - everybody was a neophyte at one time even the master electricians
Cole you are a real asset. I think you are going to have the highest production ever I really feel it bro.
CONGRATULATIONS ON YOUR WEDDING TO NEVA !!!!!! SUPER HAPPY FOR YOU BOTH AND PRAYING FOR MANY WONDERFUL YEARS TOGETHER !!!!!!!!!💕💖🙏😘💓🎁🎂
I've worked in one car dealer in 1978 that had radiant gas tube heating and the floors in the wash bay always had ice on them in the winter.
I'm anxious to hear hear what you find about the collection wells (I think my dad called it a drip leg) on the gas lines; I have one where it comes in to the house, one at the basement furnace for the first floor, one in the attic furnace for the second floor, and one at the water heater. I know it needs to be 3" (just use a 3" nipple) and that it needs to be where gas pushes straight down into it at a T just before it goes into the equipment.
those are called sediment traps. They catch any flakes from the steel gas lines. (among other things) It's not something that needs to be serviced on a regular basis.
@@rupe53 Yup, when I did the flex line for my gas stove, I opened the three that were in the basement, which are all in excess of 25 years old, and there was nothing in any of them.
You will get it done regardless, but put a main gas shut off coming in to the building in case of a fire. Make sure you put the drop under the shut of valve at the unit itself and definitely don't let anyone talk you out of the fresh air intake on radiant heat. Make sure you put the spiral tube in correct place and remember that system grows when it heats up so plan intake and exhaust with the expansion in mind.
Propane is vastly different then gas. Look at the btu demand of the heater. Then ensure your line size from outside to second stage is accurate. Then lime size water column to heater. I've had to fix so many things because hvac guys don't understand propane and the huge difference
You'll like the tube heaters. Our department has been running ours at 55 degrees for 20 years now. 8 overhead doors no issues
The trap for gas would ideally be next to the device, in case there’s some debris inside the pipe after installation it should catch it. For that air intake, consult the manual. It should have specific rules as to what size vent you can have, how long it can be, how many bends etc. Should be fine running upwards
What Caden said... Plus I'm pretty sure it's code
I wouldn't use 90 have tried to use 45 you'll get a better flow that way
@MrCheshire24 good thing he is talking about intake air isnt it
Ideally the gas drip leg (collecting well as you call it) you would put it as close to the unit as practical... its purpose is to trap any rust and debris that might accumulate in the line and prevent your inlet screen on the gas valve from becoming fouled up. As far as fresh air supply (combustion air) ducting up like you stated shouldn't be a problem and is better/ more efficient because you are not using heated inside air for combustion but when in doubt contact the manufacturer for details on max length and recommended diameter. Some require solid metal (snap loc) ducting larger than the inlet to prevent air starvation, I would avoid flex ducting because of air restriction/ turbulence and its easily damaged.
Id of stayed with the furnace and just ran some ducts. They both heat the same but at least the furnace has a fan to move the air. Hell, you can use em both together if you have the pressure. You can put your trap at the wall but the closer to the device the better it will do what its intended for. As for the gas line and 90s, you need to calculate the pressure vs. the run length. 90s add 5 feet per. One of the reasons why I always preferred the flexable gas pipe. And for the life of me I cant remember what it was called. My mind is stuck on Pex but thats not right. But in the end on the farm, we do what we know and can do. :)
Install the gas line drip leg as close as possible to the appliance. Any temperature changes will cause any moisture in the gas supply to condense.
You'll be sorry if you remove the forced air heating system. The radiant tube heaters only heat what is in direct path from the heater. What's wrong with having both radiant and forced hot air in the shop?
I'm say you need the well by the heater. Cause that's were the propane boils off before going into the heater
Get a clamp ammeter, and learn it. 1800 watts or so on a 15amp line. Volts X Amps is Watts. And 14 gauge wire is 15 amps maximum at 120v.
From the Netherlands here. Here most things electrical like tubes and boxes you wire stuff together in are made of plastic these days instead of metal. That way there is no chance of power on the box/tubes in case of any malefunction. No electrician though.
For outside lights im a big fan of those time/light thingys. They go on automatically if its time and its dark enough. No switches needed, no forgetting putting them on/off.
And like you said, the basic things you can easily wire yourself. Just pay attention and draw things out if needed 👍
Judging by the 14 gauge going into the box, you can only have a 15 amp breaker for your outside lights.
14 gauge (white) = 15 amp
12 gauge (yellow) = 20 amp
10 gauge (orange) = 30 amp.
You can under use a wire, but never ever overuse a wire. Meaning you can use 12 gauge on a 15 amp circuit. But never use it on a 30 amp.
In most cases you are right but if it is a dedicated line to run a motor you can actually put a 30 amp breaker on and number 12 wire. Breaker has to cover the staring amps of motor but wire need to do running amps. Starting amps are higher for a few seconds then running amps will be way less. Yes it is really confusing once you start doing motors and other things.
Usually yes. I still have a few rolls of 12/2 w/G that is white. The yellow 12/2 is a new deal but that white wire in the shop could be the old white 12/2 too.
Tip: Use Wago 221 instead of wire nuts. it makes the installations so much easier, and you can change stuff easier later on.
Excellent work hiding the all mud underneath that gravel ! 👍
That looks so neat and clean that way.
in the UK we have green and yellow for earth, brown for live and blue for neutral , go earth to earth, brown to brown and blue to bits, keep up the good work, as long i suppose you get it signed off after all should be ok. There is always paperwork in no matter what you do.
When a circuit is active that neutral is just as hot as the line (hot) wire.
Sediment trap/drip leg should always be as close to the furnace as Possible. you should be fine with your fresh air intake the way you want to do it. I have installed several of those tube heaters for customers. would not have been my first choice in your shop but thats what you wanted. I would have just reused that Forced air heater you had with a little ductwork. with a building as large as yours you probably should have done a Double Tube system.
Hello, I have been your subscriber since you started but I had never commented, today I do it because you said that you are studying Spanish and I feel very honored so I send you greetings and rain of blessings from Puerto Rico.
Congratulations on getting married Cole! You and Nave are a beautiful couple!
Yes you can have 2 90s for fresh air intake. But use the 90s that are called street 90s. They are a smoother softer 90. Helps prevent restrictions. Exhaust just go straight out the side of building. No bends. The trap line for gas needs to be located at the appliance. Reason for this is that any debris that is in lines or tank gets collected in that drip pipe. Also for any moisture that may get in the line. Last reason would be if moisture was in the line using the black steal line rust could still form so your basically trying to catch as much debris that may be in the line right before appliance. This is to prevent issues with the gas valve. If it was where you have it now you have the risk of causing valve issues down the road since you may have what looks like a good 15 to 20 ft of line before the valve that could rust or build up moisture when not using it.
I remember when I went to trade school for electrical and whenever we used a new instrument or device, one of my teachers would be like “Everything’s a switch, everything just turns things on or off” which is kind of true
In my electronics class, I came to the realization that everything is a capacitor lol
Electrical wires and gas lines, take them UP and OUT OF THE WAY. Down low they are subject to moving things bumping into them and it's more likely you'll find they are in the way of something you want to do. Raising them up doesn't entirely eliminate either but it does greatly reduce them.
50 degrees most shops run at. But you need big cealing fans to push the heat down with m
Yes running 12/2 is cheaper and Romex will do the job for now but pipe will stop the critters from eating the coating off the wires. And we all know they love it.
Making all possible electric connections for a house was part of my high school lessons. We got a big pannel a bunch of switches, fuse box lamps and cables. Our task was to build a working connection system that could turn on lamps with multiple switches. All classmates male and female mastered that task.
"Electricity flows like water". Cole, electricity and water are not too good together. 😍
My husband used to teach 'shop' and one of his classes was Electricity. Water was the example he used when he taught about how electricity flows! But you are right, don't mix it with water.
@@joannecooper4592 😃
Keep the forces air for supplemental heat, you'll need it.
Hey Cole ! I have a tip for you. When someone asks: ¿Hablas español? An excellent response is: "Si pero solo las malas palabras." It is a good icebreaker and never fails to get a laugh. I learned from Hispanic farm workers; that was what they wanted to learn so it was the basis of my Spanish language education. Thanks for the video !
When it comes to gas and lights I let the experts do it only because things happen. You make me nervous. Also, Coopers comment about needing more than 15 minutes under tanning light just cracked me up! Actually. It made my day! Lol
Isn't making fun of Cole's whiteness considered racist ? 🤔😂
Ah, no.
Tube heaters....... I have a 14000 square foot truck shop with a 20 ft ceiling 6 big tube heaters, They are great when the doors stay closed . The shop has 8 big doors with trucks and trailers moving in and out all day. The recovery on the tube heaters sucks. When it’s -30 out side it’s just above freezing in doors.
Required to have a drip leg on the gas piping near unit with gas shutoff to isolate unit
the radiant heater heat everything in the shop. So if you open the doors and close them the shop warms quicker
I worked in a shop that used those radiant heaters. They would heat up the tops of the cars in the shop, but not the bottoms where I mostly worked. I don’t think you’ll like those heaters.
Closest to the burner the better for the drip leg, I would put one where the gas comes through the wall along with a valve as well. Along with one and a valve by the burner. What's your plans with Amana furnace??
Wait a second... ground wire in the US has no coating? I learn something new every day; because here it actually is coated green (and yellow, striped) so I thought his explanation and using green was quite accurate up to the point where he showed the wire. Funny difference.
Ground can be green or bare or green yellow strip. In romax wire it is bare in conduit it will be green.
You guys across the pond run a different grounding system. I see the way you guys wire things and my head spins trying to figure it out, i think you guys do the same thing looking at our electrical stuff.
You are supposed to have dirt leg at each appliance or regulator. Those are to collect dirt and moisture before the regulator. Go directly out with the exhaust and intake air for the radiant tube heater. Read the installation manual, that’s why they send it along with the unit!
Damn. Pigtail your power source to supply power to the bottom side of all 3 switches. Top side of each switch you connect to the black wire of the light you want controlled by that switch. Wire nut all of the whites together in the switch box. Pigtail all of your grounds together and run pigtail to each switch and box.
Ditch the wire nuts and get Wago types or knockoffs. They are so much easier both for installation and to fix mistakes.
Everything is coming along
The gas trap has to be near the heater by code at least here in Michigan you should be able to find out what code is for your county pretty easily from the internet good luck cole
Looking at your setup that is a 90% plus efficiency furnace and I'm going to say that is very acidic water not just any water so be careful where you dump it you don't want it close to anything you don't want to get rusty
The drip leg on the gas line should be located near the heating device.
Make sure your dad remembers you size the breaker for the size of your wire not the load on the circuit, if you oversized the breaker for your wire size it’ll burn up the wire if it gets loaded too heavy but not heavy enough to trip the breaker, so make your breaker match your wire and use wire bigger enough to accommodate the load you anticipate.
Yeah there is a code for that, NFPA 70 National Electrical Code.
Considering where you live, it just tells me that all of your attempts to learn Spanish are from your own motivation! You are doing a phenomenal job. 🙋♀️🇨🇱 Yo hablo espaniel tambien…
If you put the conduit or the gas trap down on the wall I'll guarantee you will hit it with something !!!!! Put both on the ceiling!!!!!!🙂
Cole I started with you to see you declutter a hoarded 3 generation farm. Loved it!! Now I’m loving seeing how you are working so hard to add value to what you have. You are all such good stewards of the land. You make me proud.
Hey, when are you announcing your marriage? Inquiring…….
Nave announced it and posted video.
Cole you have right idea, I would never ever use a junction box with tapped ears or tabs.
That Black & Decker electrical manual
Classic
If you want it even easier, look into the Wago wire connectors for joining wires. You push the wire into the connector and close the spring loaded clips
The wago items are GREAT to use and cost if nice too
Was think $30 for 50 items of 3 wire Connections
Junk
I agree. Wagos are the way to go. I use them all the time. So much tidier then wire nuts or connector block
NM cable (Romex) is not allowed to be run exposed below 8’0”. It is required to have physical protection from physical damage. (Conduit or wire way). The box with the three switches in it is not big enough for that many conductors the way you are wiring them. The yellow NM cable is #12 and used in 20 amp circuits. If all #12 for the lights, the breaker could or should be 20 amp. Best wishes, Kevin
I wouldn’t 90 the air Intake. 45 up and another 45 into it. I’d also put an anti bird cover over it on the outside of the shop. Gas line? Doesn’t matter how you run it.
You are a great teacher. Thank you
Put your dirt leg on your gas line as close to your appliance as possible the inside of black iron pipe can flake off over years also always use a good thread tape and pipe dope on your threads and tighten enough but don't drive the pipe past the threads in the fitting don't forget a union somewhere preferably close to the fixture for ease of maintenance on the parts that may fail on the fixture oh the tee vertical with the nipple on the bottom that nipple and cap is the dirt leg it is meant to protect the fixture from getting any possible debris from the pipe into the regulator hence why it is important to put it as close to the fixture as possible after you build that gas line you should at least use dish soap and water in a spray bottle to test every joint you make looking for bubbles coming out but as a Plumber you are supposed to isolate the new system put at least a 15lb gauge on it pressurizing it to 10lbs and let it sit for 24hrs to see if you have a leak you will have fluctuations in the gage minimal through temperature variations that is normal but a dramatic loss like 5psi or something you have a leak and need to pump it back up and use the soap and water method to find your leak be extremely careful building a gas line it can kill you especially in an enclosed area like your barn plumbers are the ones that run gas lines in buildings and we have to be licensed insured and pull a permit you as a home owner can do your own without all that I believe but insurance may be an issue maybe you pay a professional for just that in your hook up of your heater just to protect yourself and your family for at least insurance purposes it can't cost that much to get that little bit of pipe ran and a permit can't be that much where you are it would be a piece of mind knowing it was done right and you and or your building doesn't get exploded due to a very small gas leak that can accumulate over time and one simple thing sets it off just saying I have been plumbing for 30 years this year June make your choice but whatever it is make sure you at least listen to what I wrote
Your gas line drip leg is better to be right there by your equipment to catch any condensation which may occur but on that long run it may be better to have it at the bottom and the top because it also catches sediment.
Shut off valves electrical disconnect should be within Arm's Reach when servicing the unit.
For the electrical it's a switched Outlet and then a valve right there next to the drip leg.
For the exhaust, refer to the units manual, a good installer will reference the installers information. Also help avoid any legal problems. Like your place burned down because the unit was manufactured with a defective safety switch and caused a fire. Can't sue/get insurance settlement if it's not properly installed. And it's well documented on your channel
The manufacturer manual will tell you what size and how many 90s you can have, or 45s. Based on length of run, size of exhaust, is it 80%efficient? Then it's usually a metal dbl walled exhaust pipe, 90% or higher efficiency has plastic exhaust for the highly acidic condensate reasons
Daddy Cornstar Electric company!! Bring the manual!!!
Thank you for sharing! God bless your family!
Just something I learned…. But may not apply in your state. But insurance may not cover some things if not done by a certified person. Might want to check on what your insurance says…. While I think you doing great… and we do a lot ourselves too…. Still as large as your operation is I’d double check my insurance. The information was new to me so thought I’d at least share it with you. Not judging at all…. I like do it yourself too… and saving money!
For a non-electrician, that was an impressive explanation. I have had apprentices that couldn't read a tape measure.
Make sure you put a screen on the outside of the cold air pipe to keep out the birds
Since the tube heater is at the ceiling level, it would seem to me you will need some fans somewhere to circulate the heat, otherwise, all of the heat will stay up near the ceiling.
The air intake check the installation manual and or call tech support should be a number on manual
It's starting to look good. I'm glad to see you saving money and doing a lot of the work yourselves!!!!!🙂🙂
That filter is 1 week here in west texas
Great stuff Cole👍👍👍😂😂sorry can't help on electrical stuff 🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
I would help your Dad out by always following a color code. White = Neutrals, Black & Red = Hot, Green and bare copper = ground.
Always go as high outside as you can with gas per code run the wires out of the box going up by code need to go out of the top of the box , also install both heating system you’ll be glad you did use radiant when not work in the shop forced heat when working in the shop
Always have a back up. This guy is absolutely right don't jettison the forced air heater. Store it and do a quality install in the future.