Do not use this type of hose clamp because…
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- Опубликовано: 18 мар 2022
- Absolute trash, keep the stock Spring style hose clamps! Heat expansion is a thing.
UPDATE: 4/4/22
Likes / 1,187
Dislikes / 153
I wish RUclips never removed the dislike counter because its no where near the thumbs up like counter! Again this was simply my opinion but it seems the video got way too much attention than what I was anticipating for! Keep those views going up guys! Subscribe to the channel for more RUclips shorts in the future!
UPDATE: 4/7/22
Likes / 5095
Dislikes / 596
In just 3 days this video skyrocket to over 300k views! Might start making more opinion based videos to see who else gets triggered. 
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The reason that worm drive clamps are not used on cars is because of heat expansion plastics can expand alot more than metal so the oem clamp will flex and keep constant pressure on a tube while a worm style one won't budge and therefore will stress the tube and break it
Yes yes! Perfect! I’m glad I’m not the only one that knows this! Thank you!
Okay, I was going to call bullshit but this is a really good explanation. Thanks
Absolutely correct, worm gear clamps are a temp fix and should not remain on for long. OEM pressure clamps are recommended as you said but also dont dig into the rubber like worm gear does. Truthfully when it comes to coolant lines as a professional high performance mechanic I always recommend silicone hoses paired with T-Bolt Clamps. The edges are beveled upward so the clamp doesn't dig into the hose on the outer edges (recommend Mishimoto or equivalent). When it comes to vacuum, oil, fuel and power steering lines I always go stainless steel or nylon braided hose with A/N fittings, bung welding required but will last you a lifetime of non headaches knowing the lines are rock solid and easily replaceable.
Well, alot more things were made of metal and brass back in the day..
I was about to call bullshit, then I read the magic word most vehicles are made of these days: plastic.
Hmmm I wonder how my connections have lasted 30 years with those clamps……
Same. OEM clamps are big pieces of shit from my experience
I always switch to the screw type. The only clamp type I've had trouble with are the Gator clamps. They're hard to get off. The ears break off they stretch and bend trying to get them over the bump on the inlet/outlet. I hate them. I even have the right tools to remove and install them and I still hate them.
Probably because it's a metal radiator and not plastic
@@LeObsidianCraft mine? Plastic.
When clamping metal u can get a decent connection using screw type especially if its the german style ones. On plastic the oe clamps are better.
I had a screw clamp leak multiple times on my plastic intake manifold until i could find the right oe style that even the dealers dont sell individually.
I love those clamps, just don’t be an idiot and over tighten them
The oem ones self tighten and these you need to adjust every other year as they slowly expand. At the end of the day tho personal preference wins
Same here..those spring clamps suck ass...had one of those bastards launch across my garage..replaced it with a worm screw clamp...maybe the OEM shouldn't use such cheap weak radiators...
@@2zzlow NEW RADIATOR NOT NEEDED !!! STOP THE RIP OFF AND GET A ' DOORMAN ' RADIATOR REPAIR KIT , I BOUGHT ONE FOR MY NISSAN ALTIMA THREE YEARS AGO AND IT'S BEEN GREAT TO THIS DAY ! UNDER 18.00 DOLLARS
@@2zzlow bme uses theses type clamps
@@2zzlow the oem ones self loosen over the years too. Just no adjustment
Been turning wrenches for almost 2 decades, never have I ever had this problem and this is the preferred clamp of choice in my shop
I've been wrenching for about 50 years, and never had problems with the worm drive type clamps.
I always use a magnet to make sure the screw is stainless steel - often the clamps are stainless but the screw is not.
Put some hose sealant on, and don't over tighten.
Been wrenching for 250 years. I use worm clamps when those OEM clamps fail to open enough to get them on the radiator hose attachment port.
The plastic tank is the problem ,been using those type of clamps since I was 5 years old I'm 57
@@McAdamsMechanics I don't think they had cars 250 years ago
@@brandonshaffer3940 course they did. Everyone knows Washington rode into battle on a Mustang
I work at a jeep dealership and the spring style clamps at trash! They loose spring tension and pop off while accelerating. The worm type are good just don't over tighten them. Honestly that plastic radiator is super old and they break down, the plastic gets brittle and breaks easy, so it was a matter of time for the neck to break.
Quick connect broke on my Jeep Cherokee 2014 2.4L and no coolant was in the resouvor when it overheated.
I can relate to what I said. I had a Jeep Liberty with constant tension clamps. One day I was off road hard on my stock Liberty and I see coolant spewing out. Top radiator hose popped out. I fixed it, drove it out of the desert then replaced those with worm clamps and never had any issue. Just feel and hand tighten them.
I've used these on every vehicle I've owned and never had a problem lmao the clamp isn't problem lol
Same here I prefer these over factory clamps. You just can't be a dumbass and over do them
Fr, lol. That's literally normal wear on a radiator. That's what happens to plastic when it's old and has gone through extreme temperature changes lol
Lol those hose clamps are the best. I used to test pipes on submarines. We use these clamps to hold over 100psi. Just use a screwdriver to tighten it and you can’t over tighten it.
The clamps you don't like are often called aviation style hose clamps. They use them on aircraft because they are so dependable.
Worm clamps work great if you know how to use them. He said it right there in the video, when you “over tighten” them they mess up.
people tend to overtighten them and with a spring clamp one wouldn't have that issue.
And if you don't over tighten them they leak. Plus if you tighten them properly you need to retighten them after they went through a few heating cycles whereas it constant tension clamp self-tightens.
@@2zzlow Isn't it fun when you cut yourself working on cars with spring clamps everywhere... Nothin' worse than one of those things catching you as you withdraw your arm from deep in the engine bay
worm clamp losen up over time, ive have to re-tighten my yearly or they get lose and i leak antifreeze
Used worm type clamps for decades on brass/copper and plastic radiators. Never had an issue. Never busted the necks and never had to retighten them either
Mechanic for 12 years. This has very little to do with the type of clamp, and everything to do with the plastic. Drastic temperature changes (northern climate), and/or poor quality plastic causes the whole system to become extremely brittle.
It's common on all vehicles, but particularly more common on Japanese and German vehicles.
If it was a spring clamp this wouldn't have happened. More common on Japanese cars? My 18 year old celica with its original radiator and spring clamps is laughing at your opinion...
@@2zzlow I love how confidently wrong you are. 🤡
@@2zzlow Well, to be fair, when i changed the radiator on my Audi a4 b5 the upper radiator connection just crumbled in my hands and there was a spring clamp on there..
But i agree with you, for unexperienced people the spring clamps are safer
@@2zzlow I'm sure that's what you told the customer, and they probably believe it too. The fact is, that this accord/odyssey/whatever is not you celica.
There's a reason that the oem clamp is missing. (a cracked radiator inlet perhaps?) that somebody assumed was an oem spring clamp that has lost its spring tension. It's common. You will also see it often in heater hose T's/ joints, and thermostat housings. They just don't hold up well to the coolant/temp changes.
@@2zzlow lmao your a mechanic right? Not surprised that your vehicle maintenance is up to date and well kept, not everyone does this and is probably the reason you still have a job if everyone did proper maintenance alot of vehicles would still be on the road.
I’ve not had an issue with those clamps, I use them for my cooling system. 10x better than steel ones that rust out
I tend to replace stock spring clamps with my favored worm clamps, just don’t overtorque, never had any problems (yet). But after viewing your article, I’ll seriously consider changing my hose clamp paradigm!
I always replace worm gear clamps with OEM spring clamps. Never a problem.
I absolutely despise those OEM clamps. It may be because I've mostly worked on older cars, but those clamps are usually a gigantic pain in the ass to take off and reinstall in comparison to the worm clamps
When you have the correct tool, they are easier and faster.
Plyers work a dream. I inly use them to fit an after market induction kits though 😂😂
Not if you have the proper tool for them I can remove and reinstall constant tension clamps much faster and easier than worm drive clamps
Iv'e seen the OEM clamps just snap in half on more than one occasion when removing a hose
I promise the harbor freight cable style hose clamp tool would change your mind. I ended up with a matco version after a few years, but it totally changes lower hose installation on a fwd anything!
Thats one thing I keep in my mobile bag no matter what, because its 3 feet long, it will go places you can't physically get your hand.
Those screw style of clamp have been used on automobiles since they've been liquid cooled (maybe not that long). Just cause someone else don't know how to size and tighten them doesn't mean there garbage.
Every person has an opinion
@@2zzlow and you chose to talk about it by creating this video. Sorry it backfired on you
Ohh heavens no Cory! RUclips is paying me because you are here! Lmao 🤣
@@2zzlow In that case have another dislike. That sure helps you get seen right?
You bet! keep dropping them comments
been using those clamps for 40 years, never had a problem with them. spring loaded clamps are such a pain.
Those clamps are the best!💯 I've never seen that happen before. But I also know when something is tight enough. 🤷♂️
Nothing wrong with "these style clamps" when you know what your doing.
When you tighten it so much it gets loose, ya done fucked up.
Frs he don’t know how to tighten with out braking it he might be in the wrong business
Common Sense isn't so common anymore
he is wearing gloves
I guess y'all don't know that shit expands when it gets hot? The OEM clamps will expand with the tubing and not squeeze them till they break while the worm gear clamps on the other hand.. they're meant to never budge or stretch
The REAL “big no” would be listening to this clowns advice
It’s just an opinion that triggered a lot of individuals. Maybe that’s why Scotty Kilmer is a successful RUclipsr
@@2zzlow or maybe your opinion isn’t as “good” as you thought it was and got a response you didn’t expect
Judging by the like and dislike ratio i think it’s good. 5k likes vs 500 dislikes.
@@2zzlow people 10:1 is a bad ratio analytics wise. Most people don’t know crap about cars and will like your video for the fact it popped up and served as “information” I wouldn’t trust 90% of people to drive a car properly much less understand real mechanic work. I’ve been wrenching for over 10 years my dad owned his own race shop for over 30 and built winning motors and never once has he discouraged a screw type hose clamp… nor would I, over 40 of my own personal cars, and a civic pushing 400k miles in Indiana that’s been beat to shit and never had one fail. If you don’t tighten it like a gorilla your probably never going to have an issue. The plastic crumbled and it was due to duty cycles and probably overheating the thing multiple times.
@@2zzlow nice burn on scotty lmao,
That's your choice bro . Those clamps the good quality ones never fail me yet .. 24 years as a mechanic....
Gotta love when you get the dumbest customer and dumbest advisor to make you the most difficult RO ever☠️
Did you charge him 175 for that diagnosis? The factory hose clamps work great with new hoses, but if the hose is worn out the others work better.
I didn’t, the dealership did.
I would much rather run a new hose. Inexpensive to begin with.
Factory clamps the only clamp that should be used. Worm gear clamps are after market garbage. Just like a most after market parts are not built to e.o quality
@@89gt5.0 you’ve clearly been using them wrong. Never had an issue with them on bigger hoses. They are shit for smaller hoses but the bigger ones they work fine
@@Auto209 yeah clearly they are hard to use. So complicated. Maybe i should read the instructions next time.
@@89gt5.0 both types have issues. Worm gear clamps have the possibility of being overtightened and damaging the material underneath. If you use them right thats not an issue. Spring ones can get worn out and not clamp properly. Ive had factory spring ones on the factory hose that didnt clamp at all, the hose could just pull right off.
You can use either one, just be aware of the issued with both.
One of many people on the interwebz that have no clue 😂
Don’t stick around then!
Warm drive hose clamps have been around for probably 90 or 100 years now literally.
Quality ones work great hence why they have been used since the Model T and A days,
Squeeze clamps tend to lose tension when reused especially when exposed to heat cycles such as a radiator.
Honorable mention of a quality clamp should go to the hose clamps you tend ro see on Japanese vehicles, the clamps that use a center bolt to sinch down a dual wire clamp, they are a good clamp also.
Those jubilee style clamps have been used since the dawn of time without issue and were the standard clamp on almost ALL cars.
The reason they swapped to the quick release style is for ease of installation on the assembly line during production!
Just don't tighten them to crazy torque, just nip them up!
What I've found with the quick release ones is they often dig into the hose too much when installing or removing over ridge flanges on most couplings the hoses fit on to.
They're almost fit once and forget because they sometimes lose their spring grip after you open them up!
Then become a sloppy fit after refitting! 😳😲👍⚠️😁
BTW those plastic hose connectors on rads and other coolant couplings and unions are junk from day 1.
They should be metal but the manufacturers use plastic to cheap out abd save money.
The trouble is with constant heat and cool cycles the plastic deteriorates and eventually goes brittle and just crumbles.
I had one break on my MG ZT 1.8 turbo, luckily it didn't over hrst but it caused a ton of issues and they want crazy money to replace them, even though they are cheap plastic, sold the car just because of them!
Because the plastic replacements will just fail again later.⚠️😲😳
When those factory spring clamps leak, how do you tighten them up. Because we all.....well I know, that spring steel over time loses its strength, especially after many heat cycles. Also, how do you get a new one on without draining the system and removing the hose?
My 18 year old Celica still has the original clamps, guess it’s not a problem with a Toyota.
Well the second part is irrelevant since they are both made out of the same material soooooooo
Don’t need to if my original one is not leaking after 18 years
Again, opinions
It's a spring clamp it gets tighter as the coolant expands and when it contracts it springs back to its original size screw clamps will loosen when it expands then it has to be tightened again manually
You can buy replacement spring clamps. Or better quality worm gear clamps. I've never had a parts store worm gear clamp break on its own, mostly it's from overtightening on my part or using the wrong size.
@@2zzlow what are you talking about? Worm gear clamps don't spring mechanics like oem clamps
"How do you tighten them up?" Use a bench vice and squeeze it a little on the sides, them turn it 90° and squeeze a little more. Done. Brand new and no overtorque problems. I love those ones for the cooling system cause you're never breaking any plastic connections and won't get any leak either.
This guy is the only pro mechanic I’ve heard of in 35 years of working on cars myself that actually likes the spring loaded OEM clamps.
The rest of us like the worm drive clamps, and so do our fathers and grandfathers that saw the car become a thing.
that's because todays radiators are made out of plastic.
I've been using those clamps for 20 plus years. I've never once had a problem
congratulations! another 20 right?
I had this happen to my Jeep, I simply put 1 finger lightly to move the hose and it blew coolant all over my arm. 5% 2nd degree body burn. My skin was literally popping bubbles. Most pain I've ever felt in my life. 3 years later and I'm lucky I have no scarring.
I only have issues with OEM clamps getting weak over time and leaking. I always replace the OEM style with worm clamps.
Idk man those clamps have always worked for me on just about everything I've never had a issue with them
That’s wild I was thinking of converting to those style too and I have to replace couple of Coolant hoses today thanks for heads up lol 💯
Ive had several oem clamps do the same. As others have said its not the clamp. Its the plastic. I use these clamps in alot of vehicles and have never had this issue unless the plastic was already toast.
*laughs in ABA Sweden and common sense when tightening those*
wouldn't have to worry about it with a spring clamp
Aha that was a good one man 👍🏻😤🇸🇪
Oops!
Attempts to reinstall broken plastic to upper radiator housing.
Tech: Found the engine needs to be replaced. Possibly transmission too.
I used to hate the OEM ones till i realized that they are the only way to get even/proper clamping force
FINALLY Someone shows a video on those garbage worm drive scree clamp's. The pathetic part is: you can't buy the OEM spring style clamps in parts stores. They always try to "up sell" the screw clamps when a customer is buying coolant or a radiator hose.
the spring clamps aren't even that much money, I paid $5 each for mine at the dealership when I was switching new hoses on my dads 250k mile matrix. just because it was bought from the dealer doesn't mean it cost a lot
"Worm clamp" is the term you're looking for
I’ve had people call those clamps 20 different names in the comments section. That can be a video for another day, proper name of said clamp
Non-sense! that rad is junk because it’s heat cycled a million times and gone brittle.
You have a point
Those clamps have never failed me, im atill goong to use them.
The problem is not the clamp, it cheap foreign made plastic.
To my generation, plastic is a four letter word.
This is the first person I’ve ever come across that didn’t wholeheartedly hate spring clamps
Guess you haven’t come across the people that liked this video
i have never had a problem using non OEM hose clamps.
Thanks for sharing
Worm clamps are great in a pinch but plastic expands when heating up which is why oem uses expansion compression clamps, worm clamps will not expand and this cracks the plastic, I’m not against using them on metal pipes tho
very true my friend glad you shared your thoughts about it unlike half of the people here with no reasoning as to why they hate spring clamps.
@@2zzlow yea and everyone saying compression clamps are a pain In The ass yet the proper tool cost $15 and makes it super easy, people grab pliers and go to town on them and cause the headache but what do I know I’m just a dumbass technician
I mean yes and no, you aren’t wrong overall but those clamps work just fine if you use them properly… In this case I see 2 issues, they used to large of a clamp which causes it to clamp very uneven as it has to remold as you’re tightening it and as you stated they over tightened it. I have had plenty of vehicles with worm style clamps on plastic fittings and no issues and some manufacturers even use them. (Mercedes)
Those clamps work good when used correctly
Worm clamps work perfectly fine. Just got to be smarter than your average lube tech at jiffy. Lol. They actually make high torque worm clamps that are pretty stout. Mine hold my procharger piping. That being said I don’t see how there’s any way in hell a worm clamp can crack that radiator lmao.
^Tell me you’re stupid without telling me you’re stupid
@@yourfather5324 don’t see how it’s stupid. Those spring clamps are horrible, between worm clamps and t bolt clamps I see no way in hell anyone can say they’d rather use spring clamps. Especially in todays engine compartments.. But hell what do I know, I dont play video games.
Todays engine compartment is 50% plastic from factory. A spring clamp is designed to expand from the plastic/ rubber hose heating up. Obviously they are cutting down in quality but that doesn’t mean to use the incorrect clamps.
@@2zzlow it’s just cheaper to produce. It’s the end all be all of manufacturing. Everything on everything is spring clamps. I know it and everyone else knows it if they can cut 5 minutes off each product the overhead is astronomical.. Same reason why they use quick connects on things like heater boxes etc. drop it in and snap it together like a big Lego toy, hell with the poor bastard stuck on the side of the road 8 years from now when the nipple
Breaks off lmao. Either way, I get my clamps from industrial supply store. Constant tension worm clamps. They were like $2 a piece or something. Never had any issues.
EDIT: my bad. Just looked them up, “constant torque” worm clamps is what they are. Either way they work very well and are much easier to use than spring clamps with the ears
I love those spring clamps. Use them on all my classic cars. Snap-on (Bluepoint) sells the cabled tool. I find my clamps at the junk yard.
lmao my v6 supercharged celica also got free spring clamps from the junk yard and haven't leak a single drop of coolant.
FYI you always start with the windshield wipers, with battery grounded to positive then suggest new defrost relay.
Exactly those clamps are awesome. They need to stop making radiator parts out of plastic
I've used worm clamps, V band and spring clamps for repairs. It all depends on where you use them but this guy wasnt smart about it. Who in the right mind puts that on a plastic inlet/outlet.
I only use worm clamps on half inch or smaller hoses and only if they are over top a metal inlet/outlet, never plastic.
Not all of those worm clamps are garbage, 2 things here ( possibly ) the rad neck may have been old n weak n and the clamp could've been overtightened but most likely just due for anew rad, cool video!
Bro literally broke the radiator lol
You tripping bro those oem clamps keep tightening when the hose gets old and causes it to rupture
Ya, the reason that style of clamp is no good is because the radiator is now made out of plastic, it didn't used to be an issue back when the hose neck was made out of metal, in fact those style of clamps used to be the preferred type of clamp, FYI.
That's the clamp that's on my trucks radiator cap. Works just fine. Just don't overtighten.
That plastic was more than likely brittle and dry rotted if it broke like that, yes the spring clamps apply more even pressure but I’ve used worm clamps on radiator hoses and heater hoses for years because they are more readily available and never had a problem like this.
Gotta use what you have on hand. If I can use OEM clamps I will but if all I have are worm clamps I'll use them.
At least some customers try lol, others just say "customer states washer fluid was low, and now hears a ticking under the hood, please check and advise"😂
fuck those days when you are stuck on a "hears" work order from the customer
@@2zzlow out here trying to find a noise in the front of the vehicle for an hour, all while it's been a wrench from the last service stuck under the cowl😭
Haha I remember my first day in the shop when I loved cheap factory clamps over worm clamps
Ive been working on cars since '99 and I've never had a problem with replacing the squeeze clamps with worm gear clamps. I've had a few squeeze clamps break and replaced them with the worm clamps and they work just as good and are easier to remove in the future
My favorite line on an RO has and will always be " Customer States Tire is Loosing Air." Well fellow customer, let me tighten your air.
In my 20 plus years of vehicle repair I have found that the OEM compression clamps in time get weak and become garbage. I have seen way to many come backs after re usage of the OEM clamps and now the vehicle has a leak. The fix is to use the screw clamps.
Breaks radiator, blames hose clamp that all of us used for over 50 years
i know right? who is this guy
You can get nice looking constant tension clamps from mishimoto, they are normal t-bolt clamps with a spring so that they can expand with heat
It's a acura engine, what do you expect?
Agree, those worm gear clamps are nothing but trouble on plastic components!!!! Everyone wants to over tighten them to stop a leak !!!!
I've always used those clamps and this has never happened once. But I'll keep this in mind
I like those worm clamps, so long as whatever they're clamping onto is made of a metal. Haven't had an issue so far with all aluminum rad and ps reservoir since installing them. Definitely better to use those c style tension clamps for plastic stuff.
I use worm clamps if that's what was there before. I use the constant tension clamps if that's what was there before. I have the proper tools to remove those clamps, so it isn't a really big issue.
Looks like the shop is eating a Radiator 😂😂...
Spring style clamps can also lose tension fro heating and contracting and eventually lead to sucking air in the system also
Use oem Clamps Said No one ever.. except this guy.. 😂
My family has been using these style hose clamps for over forty yrs, as for me I've been using them for about twenty yrs and not once have we had this problem.
They've saved me more money then I care to count over the years, last car I used them on was a 06 seabring, this thing needed a new heater hose, one end was bigger then the other, dealership wanted 200$ for it and it'd take 2 months to get to me, or I could go to Boston MA for it.
Went to autozone bought a two packs of hose clamps and pulled a plastic heater hose off a other sebring Jerry rigged it all to gather and the car ran fine then and still run fine, replaced the oem clamps for my radiator neck the same time, still haven't had a problem and that was 5yrs ago.
Radiator neck failure can happen even with oem parts especially with temperature changes, I mean honestly who thinks it's a good idea to use plastic and ship a vehicle up to New England? Plastic and cold don't mix and I see people with busted Radiators all the time in the winter and they have oem.
Vehicles that get cranked out now is military grade equipment, whoever can make it the cheapest slightly least sh*tty get the job, another comparison puppy mills will give you a better product them the automakers will.
When I bought my 2018 new I had to get the window arm and motor replaced and I only had it for six months, back in the 90s you could at least expect quality and a decent price tag, now it's 90k+ and you get something slightly better then sh*t, figure that one out.
If you like these style of clamps there is other ones that are better and the same removal and install process, the other clamps have a spring like system that allows for expansion and contraction while keeping spring tension
That is caused by someone adding water/cheap antifreeze, throwing the PH level off their by causing the coolant to become corrosive, the worm style clamp was probably an attempt to stop the upper hose with the factory clamp to stop leaking! The clamp did not corrode the radiator!
Good for you for hating the better clamp. The best is worm drive as they will not loose tension and most are made of stainless steel and won't rust away. The only problem is if they are overtightened. Over the years of owning a shop I've never seen a clamp related failure with the worm drive clamp unless it was overtightened. But I lost count of the amount of time money and more often than not the number of engine failures because the "constant tension clamp" didn't have enough tension to hold the hose on the connection and blew off going down the road and by the time the customer was even aware that they had a problem it was too late to save the engine.
"don't tell the customer" hahahahahahahaha
The edges are sharp and cut into the silicone rubber.
I use Mishimoto black worm clamps that are more beveled but not on fluid hoses.
You must be the only tech on the planet that prefers those spring clamps to a screw clamp.
Car care nut on RUclips. Camry v6 video
Alright, the real reason why you should not use MOST worm gear clamps is because they provide an uneven load pressure on whatever you’re clamping down on, so on a soft brittle plastic piece that is prone to significant expansion and contraction these are technically not the proper clamps to use. The spring clamps provide an even clamping force over the entire area therefore whether the plastic expands or contracts, the spring pressure load should never change. Now, there are some specifically designed even load worm gear clamps that are designed for this application that I use in my shop and I have seen roll off the factory many times and these are much nicer to use and typically don’t fail often.
A while back I was hunting a small coolant leak in my Honda (an EJ2 technically). A pressure test showed a tiny little bubbly gurgle from the rad end of the upper radiator hose, and guess what style of clamp was there? You guessed it, worm style. At that point, I decided that I absolutely hate worm clamps, and felt like going on a crusade against them. Sometime later I replaced the radiator hose and clamp (with OEM stuff), and the leak is gone. However, I realized that I don't think the problem was the clamp - it was the hose itself. The replacement hose fit much tighter; I think the old one had simply worn out.
I like spring clamps because you don't have to "know" how tight is right, but after doing a driver's side radiator hose on my buddy's Chevy Cruze with GM's 1.4 turbo, I will say that there are absolutely situations where spring clamps are a huge PITA. And we did have the fancy remote spring clamp tool FWIW - access was just terrible in that case.
In the end, I think both have their pros and cons. I like using springs where possible, but if a friend of mine is on a budget or doesn't want to wait for an OEM part (or we're running out of patience and need to get a job done), worm clamps will certainly work. Spring clamps can also crack plastic fittings if you let them go to fast versus letting them go gradually.
those clamps are fine, but you can over tighten them so you have to tighten them correctly , i prefer the ones without slots… but that radiator broke because its old and brittle, the “oem clamps “ loose tension and are more of a pain to remove..Audis have a ton of them and i actually dislike them…(Audi Tech ,15 years wrenching)
Thank you don't forget when everything gets older the spring clamps will keep tension
The way the inside of that Radiator hose looked. Looks like he has more issues than just that hose clamp. I have been using those clamps for years and never had a issues with those.
The issue is that the radiator is scrap.
A good radiator if they have plastic side they also have a metall pipe inside the plastic pipe so you "can't" overtighten them.
New radiator? What? No super glue? 🤣🤣🤣
The proper clamps he pointed out are called spring clamps because they will expand and retract under extreme pressure. The worm gear style clamps which were the improper clamps, they lock into place through the tightening mechanism where it gets its name from. Worm gears are best for more structural but frequently used areas, and items under low or no vacuum/pressure ie cold air intake couplers commonly use these. Most cooling systems are under 16-20 psi and the hoses can expand and retract rapidly worm gear clamps over time will cut into the hose because they are not meant to fail but spring clamps are meant to expand and retract theyve also been known to help reduce the risk of a head gasket failure. Idk about you but id rather replace an upper radiator hose a radiator cap and serpentine belt (don’t forget if your belt gets wet under tension replace it. Its too loose) than a cylinder head gasket
Those hose clamps are ideal for plumbing projects , I prefer OEM clamps when working on my car.
It's not about overtightening, it's about thermal expansion. That radiator inlet grows by about a millimeter every heat cycle, and the screw clamp doesn't.
Then again...Nissan have been using wire style screw clamps since the 80s and they work fine.
If it has metal end tanks, a worm drive hose clamps will make it out of round and leak coolant too.
The one with the screw are amazing but shouldn't be used on rubber hoses IMO, especially hoses that are bound to fluctuate in temperature. The other style clamp holds a consistent pressure and can expand and contract while maintaining that same pressure while the hoses fluctuate when it heats up and cools down. The other clamp is set at a single tension, and usually too tight, so when things expand and contract then it cracks stuff or pinches the line and causes cracking around the clamp. Use what you think is best, but this is just my experience.
Use the clamp you like. As some have said, the POS Plastic hose fittings deteriorate over time, crack & break. NEVER have that problem with steel.
I've been wrenching for about 50 years, and never had problems with the worm drive type clamps.
I always use a magnet to make sure the screw is stainless steel - often the clamps are stainless but the screw is not.
Put some hose sealant on, and don't over tighten. (Doctor, it hurts when I do this...)
After years of owning a mechanic service, this is the only person I've come across that wants oem spring clamps. 🧐 the right size clamp helps a lot with worm drive clamps though
Worm drive clamps weren’t designed for plastic inlets due to no expansion room caused by the heat.
@@2zzlow they didn't even come out with spring clamps till the 90s and 2000s depending on make. I'm sorry, but we had to use worm drive cause there was NO ALTERNATIVE. For you younger guys I guess yall can talk spring clamp design and theory all day. When I was in school, spring clamps weren't invented😅
Must not be a real mechanic to call those worm clamps garbage ...
No room for expansion
@@2zzlowYou DON'T want expansion, expansion creates leaks
They need a need thermostat if they smell anti freeze. The clamp that is on there is a O'Reilly or auto zone emergency clamp to replace the old one. Whoever did radiator work broke it before that
I had my radiator connector snap in half due to the force required to remove the hose. And advice for next time, or should I just not drive a BMW?
Shooting yourself in the foot for owning a BMW. has more plastic under the hood than a TAP plastics store
I agree.. but my boss is old and can't be taught new tricks. He has me replacing spring clamps with worm gear clamps all the time.
I agree with not using worm screw clamps BUT I Don’t think that broken rad neck was caused solely by the clamp. The plastic in some of these radiators are horrible.
I’ve seen new radiator break because the plastic is so thin.
Great video keep up coming
On my 2006 Mazda BT 50, it broke by itself after 16 years. I found it when I was installing a new timing belt. Lucky.