@@melioratewithnate I've got Cura 5 working for the QIDI iFast (I found configuration files for the iFast by doing a search) with all of those calibration plugins and after following the steps showed in a RUclips video by "LostInTech 3D" had *success with an accurate, flawless 8-hour print of a large TPU part - a resin vat cover with a deep lip and a large, stylized "engraved" (sunken) logo which had many overhangs and print head transitions*. A final hint that helped with total success in preventing filament jams was your suggestion to _lower_ the platform a bit (.05 mm or so) from the usual zero and to raise the nozzle heating temp. that worked perfectly for small TPU prints by 10-15 deg. C to reduce back pressure, due to the print speed; there wasn't any ooze problem whatsoever. Happy New Year to you too, Nate!
@RetroModern Art I know one of the followers of the channel you should definitely connect with. I know he's been begging for Cura to be setup tp work with the ifast. I can only imagine that mist be a satisfying feat. I just updated the qprint software and my ifast is doing the whole musical stepper motor as it prints. Need to get back into printing myself. I will be checking out Cura asap. This seems like a big deal to me. I can't wait to try it out. Thanks for posting about it. Very cool. Much appreciated!
Thanks Nate. Is ASA a good material to print this mod in, or are you hinting at something more exotic -- I am liking and doing a lot of ASA. If not, what specific type of filament are you recommending? Only just saw this video, though I subscribed and watched (and printed most of) the mods six months ago, when I first got my iFast, which is also my first and only printer. I was also on the quest for wanting to use the high temp for everything, and ready to give that up now for the reasons you said. Just this week had problems with TPU in the high temp hotend, only to realize my previous effortless TPU printing has all been with the lower temp hotend. I will have to print this before switching back over to the lower temp hotend to do redo the failed TPU stuff... Thanks again for all of the mods.
Asa should work. I was going to try one in pc and Asa. I totally agree with that. I think it will solve the issues. Its crazy how hard it can be to get the harder filaments purged out to print something soft
This isn't about the nozzles...but yeah, they're great, plated ones are better I've found but to each they're own. I don't have the budget to try as much as I'd like
![Diggy Graves - Red Vineyard [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8Ro085T0mnQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the likes! After creating over 40 parts for the i-fast, I think i might be done. All shared for free:) worth a like !
Thank you very much Nate for all of your effort and sharing, you are greatly appreciated!
Many blessings to you and yours, all the best!
@RetroModern Art cheers bro. All the best to you and yours! Happy new year!
@@melioratewithnate I've got Cura 5 working for the QIDI iFast (I found configuration files for the iFast by doing a search) with all of those calibration plugins and after following the steps showed in a RUclips video by "LostInTech 3D" had *success with an accurate, flawless 8-hour print of a large TPU part - a resin vat cover with a deep lip and a large, stylized "engraved" (sunken) logo which had many overhangs and print head transitions*.
A final hint that helped with total success in preventing filament jams was your suggestion to _lower_ the platform a bit (.05 mm or so) from the usual zero and to raise the nozzle heating temp. that worked perfectly for small TPU prints by 10-15 deg. C to reduce back pressure, due to the print speed; there wasn't any ooze problem whatsoever.
Happy New Year to you too, Nate!
@RetroModern Art I know one of the followers of the channel you should definitely connect with. I know he's been begging for Cura to be setup tp work with the ifast. I can only imagine that mist be a satisfying feat. I just updated the qprint software and my ifast is doing the whole musical stepper motor as it prints. Need to get back into printing myself. I will be checking out Cura asap. This seems like a big deal to me. I can't wait to try it out. Thanks for posting about it. Very cool. Much appreciated!
Thanks for the tips Nate. I’m going to be printing ABS and CF/Nylon the most. Handy to know, swapping the heads isn’t too painful. Cheers. Kit🙂
Exactly. I find it fairly simple and much less time than purging can take.
Thanks Nate.
Is ASA a good material to print this mod in, or are you hinting at something more exotic -- I am liking and doing a lot of ASA. If not, what specific type of filament are you recommending?
Only just saw this video, though I subscribed and watched (and printed most of) the mods six months ago, when I first got my iFast, which is also my first and only printer. I was also on the quest for wanting to use the high temp for everything, and ready to give that up now for the reasons you said. Just this week had problems with TPU in the high temp hotend, only to realize my previous effortless TPU printing has all been with the lower temp hotend.
I will have to print this before switching back over to the lower temp hotend to do redo the failed TPU stuff...
Thanks again for all of the mods.
Asa should work. I was going to try one in pc and Asa.
I totally agree with that. I think it will solve the issues. Its crazy how hard it can be to get the harder filaments purged out to print something soft
Why not just go with tungsten carbide nozzles on the high temp hot end? This way it would be one hot end to rule them all.
This isn't about the nozzles...but yeah, they're great, plated ones are better I've found but to each they're own. I don't have the budget to try as much as I'd like
@@melioratewithnate join the club. 😜😎