I only just came across this video and watched every minute of it, the whole two hours. Absolutely first rate, you covered every aspect of the job in forensic detail. I am an old mechanic from the 1960's and have a Mk5 Golf 2.0 lt TDI here in Australia. I still have a full tool kit and after watching your video I would be confident to buy the extra special tools that I don't have and replace the timing belt myself when it's next due. Thank you for going to the trouble of producing this video.
One of best video of VW 2.0tdi timing belt change by this professional mechanic. He did this job manually without electric or air tools. Well-done great mechanic. 👍💪
This is the most comprehensive and easy to understand video I have ever seen on the VW diesel cambelt change. Brilliant - well done! Just a comment on the change interval. Here in Australia the recommended change is at 105,000 kms or 7 years. But in reality it must be remembered that it's the engine revolutions that dictate the change interval as well as deterioration of the belt over time. The more you are in high gears, the less the engine will have turned and the 7 years is a presumed back-stop.
Thanks 👍 There's one thing that I did wrong - I shouldn't apply grease on water pump O-ring, it can eat that seal. Just a bit of coolant will do lubrication job.
Absolutely brilliant Video. Thanks for the extra work of recording everything and editing the video - it is very helpful. The world needs more people like you!
Thank you :) Your comment touched my soul :) Nice to see people, that know what it takes. There will be more videos about this car and I'll do my best. Thank you!
This video (and the other one you have when you replace it on a PD A6) helped me replace the timing belt, water pump etc. 9 months ago on my 2010 Audi A6 with the 2.0 CR engine. It also saved me around $1000 doing the job myself. Everything works perfect after 15000km. The Audi passed 380000 km yesterday, still going strong. Thanks for nice videos with good explanations! It really helps!
I just finished replacing a leaking water pump and timing belt on my Passat B7 2.0 CR TDI, MJ2012, 128k km. Thank you so much for this video and your work - this enabled me to do this without hassle. I bought all the required material which you present in the beginning of your video and had a lot of fun as everything worked out perfectly. Thanks again and have a nice Sunday evening! David from Karlsruhe, Germany
TERRIFIC VIDEO !!! ... without ever having done any mechanical work... THANKS to your very detailed, accurate and clear Video, I could change both belts and water pump in my Passat Variant B7 ... Thank you very much !!! ... please Keep going ... Your Video about mechanical work are the best on youtube !!! :-))) God Bless You !
Wow! Thank you 😊 A bit of advice - when you replace water pump, don't use grease on that seal, just moisture it with actual coolant. Some greases can eat seals and watet pump may leak then.
@@vitaviva5726 RUclips will not allow edit video that uploaded already. I'll have to delete this one, edit, and upload again. This one has good position in search engines and I don't want to lose it. That note is not critical, lot of actual mechanics use grease. I can change it on my website, but it's in a bit messy condition, hope I'll find time soon to sort it out. I have some content for 5-6 new videos waiting for editing.. then some other things in life and business.. Eventually I hope I'll get it sorted.
Thanks so much for this production - you really covered every detail and took your time. I replaced a cambelt on a Peugot 405 many years ago and I have been considering changing the belt on my 64 plate VW touran . I realised that I needed to "research" the job so as not to get caught out by some small, or big, detail. In the end, I've decided to let a good local mechanic to do the job as the cost involved in getting tooled up, will probably exceed the cost of labour.
Thanks 😊 You're right. Sometimes cost of tools can't justify DIY if it's one off job. However I think for this job the only special tools are crankshaft lock and camshaft pins that actually can be replaced with something like drill bits (if you do it, my advice don't go for 6mm, 5.5mm makes life easier). Rest of tools can be re-used for any other job. By the way, I think that engine top support is not that necessary, you can use jack with piece of wood as padding from the bottom.
Like others have commented already, this is probably the best video on RUclips as far as cambelt replacement goes for VW/Audi etc. Many thanks for sharing. I have subscribed!!
Quite possibly the most useful video since RUclips launched here in 2007. Thank you for taking the time to document & explain to us all; you make a fine teacher.. Most useful, clear, & easy to follow. You're a credit. Thank you
I feel like I was wasting my time on RUclips looking for cambelt vids! And after few years I found it! And I'm like 5 years late 😁 I can't thank you enough for this video, sent straight from heaven 👍 Next: DPF's and egr's cleaning procedures!!!! Thank you so much!
Thanks Don 😊👍 My DPF is still alive, so no video yet, but I have video about EGR. By the way I have full description of what has been done on my website, so you don't have to remember whole video (link in description).
A very nice and detailed video of the timing belt change. It's worth appreciating that the technician is so thorough, gives a very realistic display of the whole process including areas where amateurs like me could feel tense. I'm impressed and I'd highly recommend it to anyone taking up this job by himslef.
Brilliant Video so well filmed and shows how a competent person with correct tools can do something difficult with minimum facilities. Love it and clear commentary in near real time. Nigel
4 years on and now its my turn! Wish me luck, although with your excellent guide here it is definitely more about organisation and preparation. Many thanks once again!
Best and most informative video i have seen. Others i watched, they misses some small variuos steps. With yours video you can do even if it first time of changing belt, i no question left. T. Y.
Great video thank you. This is a huge job let alone filming it as well in such a small cramped garage. You can complete this procedure without touching the engine mount at all, saving time and all the problems associated with realigning it. VW also call for the engine mount bolts to be replaced which adds further cost to the job. The only reason the workshop manual calls for removal of the engine mount is to provide enough room to replace the tensioner. This can still be done by removing the tensioner stud by double nutting (as you show) and then removing as one assembly. Even with the engine in place there is enough room to remove and install this way. (Diesel Geek deserves the credit for this procedure).
Thanks a lot for the video, this was my first time replacing a timing belt and I was able to complete the work thanks to your detailed video tutorial!!! If you ever come to Madrid,Spain I pay the beers.
Thanks for showing all details for us to follow step by step. I'm about doing this job on my VW CC 2012, similar engine 2.0 TDI. Greetings from Belgium
I aware that manuals ask for new bolts. I think while making that video I did use new bolts, apart those little ones for vibration dumper on a crankshaft pulley. However on my next cambelt changes I didn't do it every time. By the way, that car is on 388.000 miles, so it had few cambelts by now. The way I look at renewing these bolts, yes it's good to have new fresh ones. Especially if you follow all torque values - this many Nm + thos many degrees. However just few new bolts can easily cost you 40-50 quid. I spoke to dealership and asked do they really replace bolts on every cambelt job? They said that they don't remove mount, but just bracket to avoid removing extra bolts. But if you change cambelt in any third party garage, you don't normally see extra 40 quid for bolts, if they would spend that - they definitely would put it on the bill. Anyway, long story short. If I go by feel with tightening re-used bolts, I think they can live long life. Think of wheel bolts - every tyre or brake change, every time I need to take my wheel off! And those are the same bolts since the car was born. I'm not saying that I'm cambelt guru and you should listen to me and not the manual, I'm just sharing personal practical experience. Therefore if your mount bolts break for some reason, please don't have a go at me 😁😉
@@wawayltd thanks for your answer! I think the mistake people make is treating a used bolt the same i.e. same torque and angle, so trying to set the same angle results in huge final torque applied and this risks weakening the bolt. I agree with you and doubt garages replace all the hardware due to cost. Tightening by 'feel' is the way and I'll use thread lock as well! A great video, once again. 👍🏻 p.s. my car is Touran 1.6TDI CAYC and first belt change at 35k but 7 yr old. The belt was drying out (brown dust everywhere) and one of the belt joints was starting to split, so 'just in time', you could say.
Hi just want to thank you for an outstanding video. Just like to now if the chrankshaft is locked after two rotations and the pin fits but the camshaft bolts is not in the middel of the slotted holes will it matter.
Thanks 😊. Yes, if crankshaft is locked and camshaft pin fits and the tensioner is correct - it's all good. Those bolts needed to be in the middle just to have room for adjustments, if it's all adjusted already - then it's OK, you are good to go 👍
Good job. This christmas holidays I am going to change the belt and the water pump to my passat 2007 motor code BKP, it has 149.000 km and your video will help me
+Andoni Cadenato Velasco Even if the idea is the same, I believe - your engine is a bit different. I tried to google BKP engine to see what it looks like. Your cambelt doesn't spin high pressure pump - only water pump and camshaft (or 2 camshafts?). High pressure pump (tandem pump) is on the other side of the engine. Your mount is different also. But! the main idea is still the same.. Might check my other video about my previous car: ruclips.net/video/oGwDYXFPKK4/видео.html Engine in Audi sits along the car, not across..
+WheelsAndMotors You are right. The BKP has 2 camshafts and injector pump. It has not high pressure pump, it has tandem pump for vauum and for diesel presure. You other video fits better, mines is transversal and yours was longitudinal, but it can help me. Thanks
Excellent vid. Better than using a Haynes manual!! Managed to use a bit of wood and straps with the help of a jack under the engine instead of engine support kit. Support Kits are about £50. I got a cam belt kit with water pump for £120 on eBay. 'Gates' very good quality.
I buy Ruville and water pump for about same price in GSF. Depends how much DIY you are planning to do (also on mileage you do) - support kit is worth to have.. For jobs like clutch..
Same engine on my Volkswagen Crafter 2015 only it's rear wheel drive so should be much easier once I strip the face off. Your video answered all my questions confident to do it now thanks
Wow just wow!! I’m am very impressed with your skills and your attention to being the audience in on the details .. I watched this on the edge of my chair the entire time.. I have 2013 Jetta TDI sportwagen and this would apply.. I have 91k miles and I’m going to do this job myself.. I noticed that people don’t replace the HPFP and I’m concerned about the horror stories about if those go bad it destroys entire system .. is there any thoughts on replacing that at a timing belt interval or maybe on the second belt interval? Just great video and entire production- you made it look simple 👍🏻👍🏻
Many thanks for nice words about my content 😊 As far as I know high pressure pump doesn't need to be replaced on regular basis. That Sharan from the video is on 422.000 miles and has no issues with HPFP.
Great video! I have to change my timing belt on my Audi A3 in the near future. It will help me a lot. One point of criticism: you should not use grease to lubricate the o-ring of the water pump. It can be destroyed by grease. Use a little bit of coolant fluid for lubrication.
That could have caused it. Coolant is chemically related to brake fluid. Therefore all hoses and seals are made from EPDM, which is also used for brake hoses. Unfortunally EPDM which will be destroyed by mineral oils.
thanks mate that was so detailed video i have ever seen nothing was missed thanks for taking your time and make this very informative video.keep it up.👍👍
excellent video really admire your energy and passion also like that you talk through every step of what your doing which really helps and also good quality detail in video nice work keep it up bro :-)
Thank you :) I'll make some more videos about this car.. By the way, I also have description of this job on my website: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
Grazie mille! :) Ho anche descrizione completa di questo lavoro con immagini, disponibili anche in formato stampabile. Controllare questo link: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
before removing the belt, other videos say to loosen the cam and hpfp bolts even if the pins can't be inserted. You say don't loosen the bolts if the pins can't be inserted. Can you please clarify. Thank you.
Sure, I can clarify - it doesn't really matter that much. I find that it's easier to pin camshaft and hpfp with bolts not loose .. However if you loosen those bolts and then insert pins, you won't have to put pressure on pins while loosening bolts. Yeah - loosen bolts first 👍
There are some places that you can rent for very reasonable price, they also provide tools. In Bristol, we have Rump-It-Up. Here's their website: ramp-it-up.co.uk/ Maybe you can find something similar..
Got a problem. My sharan is not like the one you worked on. The fuel filter is to the right; the big air filter box is above the belt which is not hidden behind a cover? it is exposed And I wonder if that is right. The mounting looks different shape etc..I have a 2004 sharan 1.9tdi. Have you done of these cars. Thanks
I haven't done anything on 1.9tdi Sharan. You have previous model. But the principle is the same, get to the belt and replace it. I have one video on 1.9tdi Skoda Superb, 1st generation. But the engine in that car is positioned along the bonnet with cambelt on the front. However it gives idea of 1.9 tdi cambelt. But! 1.9tdi can be different as well :) Nightmare! I have 1.9 tdi Golf - common rail. Anyway here's the video about that Skoda: ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html
Hello, First of all: thanks for this great video!!! I've watched every minute of it, and it is very helpful for me! I will be replacing the timing belt on my 2011 VW Sharan (2.0TDI 125kW) next week. I only have one more remark/question: what is your reference for the torques of the different bolts? Can I trust your specifications? I have been looking around on the internet, and I find slightly different values on other sites (also not all these sites are mentioning the same torques of course :-) ) Also my 2011 Sharan's user manual for example states a wheel bolt torque of 140Nm (instead of the 130Nm you mention). This made me doubtful about the other torques you mention in/on your video and site. Thanks for your answer! And keep posting those videos please!
Hello, Thanks for nice words. I based my torque values on Elsawin. Recently I have also done cambelt on 2016 Octavia based on Erwin manual from Skoda website. Torques are almost the same, considering that on newer cars there are few differences. I'm not convinced about being able to turn 180° after tose Nm little bolts on vibration dumper (auxiliary belt pulley on crankshaft). I think Skoda manual says just 40Nm. Engine mount and bracket bolts - torques applied to renewed bolts. If I reuse bolts - I try to be careful with those additional degrees, I go by feel. Yeah, I think wheel bolts are 140Nm. However, on one of the tyre changes I asked a guy from tyre shop about torque - he says we do them to 120Nm. Now I also torque my wheels to 120, as it feels ok. In my humble opinion, some torque values are not as important as others. I take seriously engine mount and anything on cambelt system, but things like screws for cambelt cover I do by feel.
@@wawayltd Nice, I'll go with the Elsawin torques then :-) Last thing: I'm also replacing the auxiliary belt and its tensioner pulley. Can you tell me the torque for this tensioner pulley please? Thanks a lot!
Unfortunately my Elsawin is not working anymore. I have only Skoda manuals and tensioner is different there. As I remember in Sharan - there is a single 13mm bolt from the back. I never did any torque measuring there sorry, with that one I don't think it matters that much - just make it tight enough so it holds it in place.
Hello, Is it necessary to make the adaptation of the egr valve after replacement? I replaced my sharan's one like yours but I have unstable idle and a default p0403. Thank you for your opinion. CORDIALLY
Many Thanks for the excellent video I need some advice. The cambelt on my Tiguan was changed by previous owner but he didn't change the bottom & top Idler rollers, I have all the locking tools & the two rollers & Intend to swap them myself. My question is do I need to re-time it if just changing the rollers
In order to remove bottom roller, you would need to de-tension tensioner, then to remove top roller, you would have to loosen camshaft pulleys in their elongated holes (with camshafts locked, crank shaft should be locked as well in that case)... So as you can see - with everything loose, and after you re-tension it again you definitely need to check and adjust timing, which I don't see to be a problem, once you've gone so far anyway. That's my view of it :)
I found that the camshaft pin has a closer tolerance than the crank locking tool. If you turn the crank clockwise 'slowly' until the cam pin goes in you will find the crank lock will fit. Both a nice fit. Putting the crank lock on first does not often align the cam pin exactly..
Hello, thanks again for your excellent and informative video I have to change my distribution and I do not know which brand of better quality to buy, could you advise me a reliable brand? Do you need to change the regulator and accessory belt at the same time? my sharan is from 2012. And thank you in advance.
Most common brand is Gates, I buy Ruville from my local supplier. I didn't change accessory belt for a while - just check condition, it's not expensive to change too. What do you mean by regulator?
Thanks for the answers, I meant the spring tensioner of the belt of accessories. As a mark of timing belt, I was advised the contitech or skf used by Volkswagen. what do you think ?
Hi. Interesting video. Would there be any way that changing the timing belt could affect the steering wheel electrics? Ie after changing the cam belt the driver's side airbag error shows, the horn stops working, the buttons on the wheel stop working?
Thank you for this helpfull Video!!How do you measure the degrees for the bolts that hold the motor, exspecially when it is so bad reachable? Looking forward for your help. Thanks!
Do you mean engine mount? Come on it's simple. 90 - quarter of the full turn. 45 - 1/8, 180 half a turn. If it's bad reachable, I have a system - have a look at your socket, pick a letter, number or any mark on it and decide where it has to be facing after you finish.
Hi, timimng belt snapp and some cam rockers broken snd replace I could not time it properly. Do you have any video on timing the cam with the cover off. Thank you
Good day. I would like to complement you on a great video! … Just one question; can the engine bend valves if the belt slipped while the engine was running?
No. There's not so much of air gets into fuel system in this job. When you start the car you won't even notice anything. But keep the fuel inside filter though 😏
Hi sir im watching your lovely and help full videos i really appreciate it many thank for uploading these videos. since 2012 im Driving on Seat Alhambra 2.00TDI 140BH I never had any problem with these lovely cars. just last week the Engine management light came on mt dashboard .one of friend diagnosed my car and the cod was P261A00 coolant pumpB . so if I buy the part can i replace it my self ?
I looked for info about this code and it looks like it applies to electrically operated pumps. Pump in our car is not electric, it's driven by cambelt. So what you need to find out first - what causing this error. Maybe some sensor, or overheating, or some heater fault. Unfortunately I don't know :(
Didn't have to deal with car like yours yet. I suppose getting to the belt should be similar. But 1.9 engine could be slightly different. If it's 2007 - it's probably PD engine. I just uploaded 1.9 tdi PD engine video on different car : ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html
If you are talking about bleeding coolant, then garages would have the machine that they put on to expansion tank to create the pressure, then open bleeding points to let the air out. However, normally it would be enough to rev the engine up and put heating on full (both sides).
Yes. My engine is also CFFB. As far as I know B7 classes as a facelift of B6, so for how to get to the cambelt - I have another video about Passat B6: ruclips.net/video/OffyDbc3jgA/видео.html
Hi. What a great video. Thank you for taking the time to help us all. I do have 2 questions though. Would this be pretty close to the Ford Galaxy zetec 2.0 tdi 2007? Also could you recommend a book for the galaxy.
Regarding cambelt, it should be more like in this video: ruclips.net/video/OWkTJToMW1M/видео.html And for manuals I look on ebay, I can recommend this seller, get hold of him, he's very helpful: www.ebay.co.uk/usr/partsworkshop
hi. perfect video documentation with great comment. i have vw touran 2013 with the same engine planning to get this replace. any idea what brand water pump and cambelt and all parts are the best ? what one u installed.? INA ,GATES ,CONTITECH
I buy Ruville cambelt kit from GSF. As for water pump - just go for whatever is best on market, because they have reputation of leaking. Some mechanics even apply a bit of sealant stuff , there are different opinions regarding that. I've done it in my cambelt video on a Passat.
Hi thanks for this video. Is this the best one to follow for a passat 2.0 Tdi Commonrail CBA engine? Or do you have anything specific for that vehicle/ is there anything different I should know? Thanks so much
This engine is CFFB 2.0tdi, I have done CAYC 1.6tdi and cambelt set was exactly the same. I'm not going to say 100% for your Passat, just in case - I will say highly likely it's going to be the same.
Did it yesterday, some small differences with my passat, an additional intermediate fuel pump, different camshaft markings but generally the same and video helped a lot thanks. A great feeling when it starts and runs good 👌
WheelsAndMotors sorry just seen this. Yes the lifting pump from the tank, the main cam driven Fuel pump and an intermediate small pump up behind the fuel filter?
Hey I would like to ask you 2 things. Why when you loosen those 3 bolts on the camshaft sprocket and turned the crankshaft to put the locking tool the screws didn't finally stop in the middle of the gaps (I hope you know about what I am writing). And If they didn't be in the middle nothings gonna happen ? Because first you said that they should be in the middle. The secon question is couldn't you also loose those 3 bolts on the high pressure pump sprocket to allign them all 3 together (camshaft, crankshaft and high pressure pump) ? Thanks :)
You have to leave those bolts in the middle, when you fit the belt, to be able to adjust camshaft with the crankshaft, so you have some space either side. Adjusting timing is not about those bolts being in the middle, but to be able to lock crankshaft and camshaft at the same time with right tension, and those bolts in the middle of their elongated holes can move for adjustments. High pressure pump doesn't have to be aligned so precise, otherwise it will take you ages, even aligning camshaft takes some time. Manual says - as long as high pressure pump is within 5mm with locking point it's not a problem.
I think that the Golf I have in my garage now has this (or very similar) engine. But, currently I don't have any time... Maybe at some point in the future.
Normally I get info from different sources to get complete "picture", like Haynes, forums, RUclips... But if you've got VAG car (VW, Audi, SEAT or Skoda), I would recommend Elsa or Elsawin. Have a look on eBay for "elsawin" or check this link: rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338022028&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313%26_nkw%3Delsawin%26_sacat%3D0
Thank you for your feedback. I have a 07 touran, so I will check out that link. Great video really helped me understand the process fully. Keep up the great content and hopefully you will get one of those RUclips awards 😀
Yes, something about that. My owners manual is in miles (I live in UK), and it says 140.000 miles. I find it strange, because dealership told me about my previous car Audi A6 - 60.000 miles (100.000km). I checked my cambelt after doing 80.000 miles from this video and it was in great condition, so I decided to postpone it till next service. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't want to run it for all 140.000 miles (210.000km), so I'll do it in 2 weeks on 90.000 miles after last change. You see, I'm a taxi driver and I depend to much on this car, so I want to be safe. Years don't apply to me, because in 5 years I do 300.000 miles or half a million km :)
Yea i think its not better to wait 140000miles bit too much plus driving in a capital city waers the parts more i guess. I am on 110000km but 6 years guess i ll do it, i saw somewhere in the internet they say 140miles or 10years i think thats too long to risk your car engine. Plus i am getting a sound from the engine bay when the car is running like a small friction or rubbing sound.
When doing my timing belt job on my 1.6 VW TDI engine (same layout as yours), it looks like after two turnovers of the engine the tesnioner was a bit "too tight" - to the right side. You mentioned that it needs to be in the middle of the slot or up to 5 mm to the right side. From memory, mine is about 7 mm to the right. Is this really bad and something I should lose sleep overnight? Or should I re-do the entire job again? Thank you
Sorry, took me while to reply. In your case I wouldn't worry about it. Try to see it when engine is hot or when it's running - it's all over the place :) Just make sure nut on the tensioner is tight to correct torque, also other nuts and bolts. If your timing is correct - it's all good.
@@wawayltd Well, problem is that there is a "whining" sound when the motor is running, heard on higher RPMs. It was not there before the TB job. The mechanic says that he also "hears something". Anyway. This evening I will leave the car at the workshop overnight for the engine to cool down, tomorrowm morning we will remove the coolant tank, fuel filter and the DPF pressure sensor bracket, remove bottom plastics, turn the cold engine to TDC and check where the tensioner actually is. While we are there, in case it's off, it will take us only to remove the serpentine belt and the crank vibration damper/puller to lock the engine and re-tention the belt.... I will report back!
So as promised, some update. At the moment of the service/inspection I talked about in the above post, the new timing belt components have exaclty 200 km on them. We removed serpentine belt, popped the TB cover, rotated cold engine to TDC. The tensioner was a bit on the lose (left) side, in fact just the beginning of the "slot". During engine turnover (as well as engine running), the tensioner was stable and never went to the high side. We decided to tighten the tensioner just a little bit, so (without any locking tools), we loosened the nut, turned the tensioner to the right side a bit and retightened. The whining sound is still there - we tried to listen to it but it seems that the belt itself is making that sound. Worth mentioning that the belt is the "reinforced" one - with PTFE (Teflon) coating on the inside of it. (Google for PTFE Teflon coated timing belt). These are known to be "more noisy" but I didn't have a clue that kind of noise they are supposed to make :) So, at this point I will keep motoring on. Thanks for all the tips and advice given
@@hid3nax Never heard of teflon cambelts.. Although I also never went into details of how they are made. Perhaps that whining noise is from your mega-armoured belt :) I like your loving attitude to your car. I have the same - can't sleep if something's not right..
@@wawayltd Please see this: dayco.com.au/page.aspx?A=8214 Pay attention to the inner side (on the picture) having white coating and you will understand what I am talking about. Mine is the same, also made by Dayco. (I specifically was looking for reinforced belt when I was seeking for good quality TB kit). As for the whine, you can read opinions from people who have used them. Most people say they notice whine, others say they don't but I suppose they don't pay enough attention. I saw posts where people replaced back all the rollers but left the belt itself in place and it still whined. Some threads: forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3334412&postcount=9 forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=319105 etc... And yes, I really have attitude to my car - everything is in perfect condition, both visually and from the technical side. Knock on wood. The car is 8 years old from the date of manufacture.
Is it right to say, if i go and lock my crankshaft, and i cannot put the pin in the hole where the camshaft needs to be locked, then it needs adjusting? My belt were changed 3 years ago. Just want to check
Yes. It's right. If you are getting there you might as well replace it :) Also I must say, it depends on locking pins - some of them don't fit if hole matches, but there is still slight deviation. Thanks to mobile phone cameras you can see what's going on. My personal opinion - if the hole is in the middle - don't worry about the pin, so many times I replaced cambelt and pin didn't fit before change. Still need to change cambelt if it's knackered.
WheelsAndMotors just worried that might end up trying to adjust 100 times and wont get anywhere. Torsion value says if everything ok ? Needs to be close to 0 ?
You don't need to go do 100 times to get it right. As long as you do it correctly and with the belt tension clockwise, as it should be with natural engine rotation. Still can be few times, but not too much - don't worry. I know that previous generation of TDI's - PD engines could be quite sensitive to cambelt change, so to do it properly they used to connect VAG-COM and set torsion value for fuel injection timing, because each injector also worked as a pump. As far as I know, with this one it's easier. High pressure pump is timed and spinning by cambelt, and as it says in video and manual - you don't need to be able to fit pin in the pump, it can be away within 5 mm. Don't worry Vilius, once you start doing it, you'll have a feeling and understanding that it's all easy :)
My previous car was Audi A6 4F, it was advised to change cambelt every 60.000 miles, this Sharan's manual says - every 140.000 miles. Confusing. When I look at the cambelt that has done 80.000 miles it looks almost like new... Anyway, for myself I just change every 100.000 miles.
Hello brother how are you my name is naeem from new delhi india my question polo 1.2 desel high pressure pump timing out.. car problem white smoke and Mising my macanic says no problem high pressure any timing
Sorry Naeem, I don't know how important the timing is for a high-pressure pump. I'm not a mechanic, so perhaps your mechanic knows better. By the way, how do you know that timing is out? Do you get any fault codes?
hi thanks for reply i did bought the gates cam belt kit witch it come with water pump from ebay but some mechanic told me its not the good idea to use it as they start to make a noise from cambelt after about 6 months or so and i have to doit again i search for genuine part from ebay but cant find any with water pump so what brand do u suggest to use if not the genuine does Bosch or skf dayco is any good or just fit genuine part where can i get them from thanks for advice ... anyway i researching to buy some tools like support beam and cambelt tool
I bought my cambelt kit from GSF Car Parts. If you sign up for email vouchers, they send 40-43% discount codes on weekends. Don't remember brand, but in my opinion it was good one, had lots of stuff, such as replacement bolts, studs - everything. Kit did not include water pump, so I bought it separately. Tool set was bought on eBay - does the job.
Hi will this the same process to get to cambelt as vw golf mk5 1.9tdi match 2007 ? By the way great detail video the best I ever see keep up the good work bro
Kind of similar, but not the same. If I'm not mistaken you have Euro 6 engine with water cooled intercooler. I've done cambelt recently on Euro 6 Skoda, but didn't have enough time to make a video. Idea is the same. On camshaft pulley you probably will have just one bolt in the middle and little bolt T30 as limiter, so instead of 3 bolts around as in this video, you'll have to do middle bolt. Water pump is different, it has electric connector for some actuator, no big idler pulley. But idea is still the same. However you will need different crankshaft lock (different tool).
You're welcome :) I also have a full description of this with images and also available in printable format: www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
I only just came across this video and watched every minute of it, the whole two hours. Absolutely first rate, you covered every aspect of the job in forensic detail. I am an old mechanic from the 1960's and have a Mk5 Golf 2.0 lt TDI here in Australia. I still have a full tool kit and after watching your video I would be confident to buy the extra special tools that I don't have and replace the timing belt myself when it's next due. Thank you for going to the trouble of producing this video.
You're very welcome Pete 😎👍
One of best video of VW 2.0tdi timing belt change by this professional mechanic. He did this job manually without electric or air tools. Well-done great mechanic. 👍💪
Thank you Arshad 😎👍
This is the most comprehensive and easy to understand video I have ever seen on the VW diesel cambelt change. Brilliant - well done! Just a comment on the change interval. Here in Australia the recommended change is at 105,000 kms or 7 years. But in reality it must be remembered that it's the engine revolutions that dictate the change interval as well as deterioration of the belt over time. The more you are in high gears, the less the engine will have turned and the 7 years is a presumed back-stop.
Thanks 👍
There's one thing that I did wrong - I shouldn't apply grease on water pump O-ring, it can eat that seal. Just a bit of coolant will do lubrication job.
Absolutely brilliant Video. Thanks for the extra work of recording everything and editing the video - it is very helpful. The world needs more people like you!
Thank you :) Your comment touched my soul :) Nice to see people, that know what it takes. There will be more videos about this car and I'll do my best. Thank you!
This video (and the other one you have when you replace it on a PD A6) helped me replace the timing belt, water pump etc. 9 months ago on my 2010 Audi A6 with the 2.0 CR engine. It also saved me around $1000 doing the job myself. Everything works perfect after 15000km. The Audi passed 380000 km yesterday, still going strong. Thanks for nice videos with good explanations! It really helps!
You're very welcome 👍 Glad if it helps, thanks for watching 😊
I just finished replacing a leaking water pump and timing belt on my Passat B7 2.0 CR TDI, MJ2012, 128k km. Thank you so much for this video and your work - this enabled me to do this without hassle. I bought all the required material which you present in the beginning of your video and had a lot of fun as everything worked out perfectly. Thanks again and have a nice Sunday evening! David from Karlsruhe, Germany
Thank you David :) Glad if it helps!
TERRIFIC VIDEO !!! ... without ever having done any mechanical work... THANKS to your very detailed, accurate and clear Video, I could change both belts and water pump in my Passat Variant B7 ...
Thank you very much !!! ... please Keep going ... Your Video about mechanical work are the best on youtube !!! :-)))
God Bless You !
Wow! Thank you 😊
A bit of advice - when you replace water pump, don't use grease on that seal, just moisture it with actual coolant. Some greases can eat seals and watet pump may leak then.
@@wawayltd Thanks Mate... I did it ! ... But maybe can be good if you can write this important note somewhere ! :-)
@@vitaviva5726 RUclips will not allow edit video that uploaded already. I'll have to delete this one, edit, and upload again. This one has good position in search engines and I don't want to lose it. That note is not critical, lot of actual mechanics use grease.
I can change it on my website, but it's in a bit messy condition, hope I'll find time soon to sort it out.
I have some content for 5-6 new videos waiting for editing.. then some other things in life and business.. Eventually I hope I'll get it sorted.
Thanks so much for this production - you really covered every detail and took your time.
I replaced a cambelt on a Peugot 405 many years ago and I have been considering changing the belt on my 64 plate VW touran . I realised that I needed to "research" the job so as not to get caught out by some small, or big, detail.
In the end, I've decided to let a good local mechanic to do the job as the cost involved in getting tooled up, will probably exceed the cost of labour.
Thanks 😊 You're right. Sometimes cost of tools can't justify DIY if it's one off job.
However I think for this job the only special tools are crankshaft lock and camshaft pins that actually can be replaced with something like drill bits (if you do it, my advice don't go for 6mm, 5.5mm makes life easier).
Rest of tools can be re-used for any other job. By the way, I think that engine top support is not that necessary, you can use jack with piece of wood as padding from the bottom.
Like others have commented already, this is probably the best video on RUclips as far as cambelt replacement goes for VW/Audi etc. Many thanks for sharing. I have subscribed!!
Thanks! 😊👍
Quite possibly the most useful video since RUclips launched here in 2007. Thank you for taking the time to document & explain to us all; you make a fine teacher..
Most useful, clear, & easy to follow. You're a credit. Thank you
Wow, thank you very much 🤓👍
I feel like I was wasting my time on RUclips looking for cambelt vids! And after few years I found it! And I'm like 5 years late 😁 I can't thank you enough for this video, sent straight from heaven 👍 Next: DPF's and egr's cleaning procedures!!!! Thank you so much!
Thanks Don 😊👍
My DPF is still alive, so no video yet, but I have video about EGR.
By the way I have full description of what has been done on my website, so you don't have to remember whole video (link in description).
Best,most detailed,comprehensive demonstration I've seen. Even shows problems likely to be encountered.
Thank you.
You're very welcome Peter, glad if it helps :)
Have seen several vids of pump and cambelt replacement THIS one is by far the best. Thanks
Thank you :)
A very nice and detailed video of the timing belt change. It's worth appreciating that the technician is so thorough, gives a very realistic display of the whole process including areas where amateurs like me could feel tense. I'm impressed and I'd highly recommend it to anyone taking up this job by himslef.
Thank you :)
I don't know if you still check this. This helped me fix my daughter's 2012 VW Passat. Thanks a lot. keep up the good work Sir!!!
Thanks John, I 'll do my best 😊
Brilliant Video so well filmed and shows how a competent person with correct tools can do something difficult with minimum facilities.
Love it and clear commentary in near real time. Nigel
Thanks Nigel! Glad if it helps.
P.S. I only pretend to be competent 😁
Because of you I was able to complete this tough job myself! Thank you..
Once you get to it - it's easy. You're very welcome :)
4 years on and now its my turn! Wish me luck, although with your excellent guide here it is definitely more about organisation and preparation. Many thanks once again!
Oh it's easy 😉
Have you never done it before?
Wow ,one of the best videos I've seen on RUclips ,
Thanks 😷👍
Best and most informative video i have seen. Others i watched, they misses some small variuos steps. With yours video you can do even if it first time of changing belt, i no question left. T. Y.
Thanks. 👍 It's not too difficult once you know it.
Very good and comprehensive video. I did my cambelt today. Thanks for sharing👍
You're very welcome 👍
Great video thank you. This is a huge job let alone filming it as well in such a small cramped garage.
You can complete this procedure without touching the engine mount at all, saving time and all the problems associated with realigning it. VW also call for the engine mount bolts to be replaced which adds further cost to the job. The only reason the workshop manual calls for removal of the engine mount is to provide enough room to replace the tensioner. This can still be done by removing the tensioner stud by double nutting (as you show) and then removing as one assembly. Even with the engine in place there is enough room to remove and install this way. (Diesel Geek deserves the credit for this procedure).
Thanks a lot for the video, this was my first time replacing a timing belt and I was able to complete the work thanks to your detailed video tutorial!!! If you ever come to Madrid,Spain I pay the beers.
Muchas gracias! 🍺😷👍
A very complete and honest video. thank you from Ireland
You're very welcome Philip, glad if it helps 👍
Thanks for showing all details for us to follow step by step. I'm about doing this job on my VW CC 2012, similar engine 2.0 TDI.
Greetings from Belgium
You're welcome! You can also print out this instructions from the website.
superb video! replaced my one by watching this, took me 4 hours but not bad as for first time:) Thanks for this!
You're welcome :)
Great video! Helped me through my cambelt change ! Thanks a bunch, this man deserves a medal.
Thanks 😊👍
By far, the best detailed video on this type of job. Well done, Sir! 👍🏻
Thank You very much Pete! 😊
@@wawayltd Did you use new bolts for engine bracket (x3), mount (×4) and crankshaft pulley bolts (x4)?
My manual says not to re-use fasteners. 👍🏻
I aware that manuals ask for new bolts. I think while making that video I did use new bolts, apart those little ones for vibration dumper on a crankshaft pulley. However on my next cambelt changes I didn't do it every time. By the way, that car is on 388.000 miles, so it had few cambelts by now.
The way I look at renewing these bolts, yes it's good to have new fresh ones. Especially if you follow all torque values - this many Nm + thos many degrees. However just few new bolts can easily cost you 40-50 quid.
I spoke to dealership and asked do they really replace bolts on every cambelt job? They said that they don't remove mount, but just bracket to avoid removing extra bolts. But if you change cambelt in any third party garage, you don't normally see extra 40 quid for bolts, if they would spend that - they definitely would put it on the bill.
Anyway, long story short. If I go by feel with tightening re-used bolts, I think they can live long life. Think of wheel bolts - every tyre or brake change, every time I need to take my wheel off! And those are the same bolts since the car was born.
I'm not saying that I'm cambelt guru and you should listen to me and not the manual, I'm just sharing personal practical experience. Therefore if your mount bolts break for some reason, please don't have a go at me 😁😉
@@wawayltd thanks for your answer!
I think the mistake people make is treating a used bolt the same i.e. same torque and angle, so trying to set the same angle results in huge final torque applied and this risks weakening the bolt.
I agree with you and doubt garages replace all the hardware due to cost. Tightening by 'feel' is the way and I'll use thread lock as well!
A great video, once again. 👍🏻
p.s. my car is Touran 1.6TDI CAYC and first belt change at 35k but 7 yr old. The belt was drying out (brown dust everywhere) and one of the belt joints was starting to split, so 'just in time', you could say.
Thanks. Not sure about thread lock on those big bolts. I never tried it like that, hope they don't get seized.
Hi just want to thank you for an outstanding video. Just like to now if the chrankshaft is locked after two rotations and the pin fits but the camshaft bolts is not in the middel of the slotted holes will it matter.
Thanks 😊. Yes, if crankshaft is locked and camshaft pin fits and the tensioner is correct - it's all good. Those bolts needed to be in the middle just to have room for adjustments, if it's all adjusted already - then it's OK, you are good to go 👍
Very good video, showing clear instructions throughout 5 stars
Thanks Andrew :)
Good job. This christmas holidays I am going to change the belt and the water pump to my passat 2007 motor code BKP, it has 149.000 km and your video will help me
+Andoni Cadenato Velasco Even if the idea is the same, I believe - your engine is a bit different. I tried to google BKP engine to see what it looks like. Your cambelt doesn't spin high pressure pump - only water pump and camshaft (or 2 camshafts?). High pressure pump (tandem pump) is on the other side of the engine. Your mount is different also. But! the main idea is still the same.. Might check my other video about my previous car:
ruclips.net/video/oGwDYXFPKK4/видео.html
Engine in Audi sits along the car, not across..
+WheelsAndMotors You are right. The BKP has 2 camshafts and injector pump. It has not high pressure pump, it has tandem pump for vauum and for diesel presure. You other video fits better, mines is transversal and yours was longitudinal, but it can help me. Thanks
Your repair videos are the best i have seen and full of information.Thank you very much
Thanks :) There will be more
Thanks
WheelsAndMotors!! Great Video, great Supervisor :)
Thanks 😷👍
Excellent vid. Better than using a Haynes manual!! Managed to use a bit of wood and straps with the help of a jack under the engine instead of engine support kit. Support Kits are about £50. I got a cam belt kit with water pump for £120 on eBay. 'Gates' very good quality.
I buy Ruville and water pump for about same price in GSF. Depends how much DIY you are planning to do (also on mileage you do) - support kit is worth to have.. For jobs like clutch..
Great thanks !, just done a water pump on my cc with the same engine 47k , and the timing marks were very usefull. cheers , keep up the good advise.
Thanks :) Glad it helps..
Same engine on my Volkswagen Crafter 2015 only it's rear wheel drive so should be much easier once I strip the face off. Your video answered all my questions confident to do it now thanks
Thanks 👍 Glad if it helps
once again that was a brilliant video every detail has been shown i thank you so much for dedicating your time for everyone else to benefit from
Thank you so much :) There will be more of these..
this is a verry awesome video . Thanks for making it easy for the DIY people out there
Thanks Sameul :)
Wow just wow!! I’m am very impressed with your skills and your attention to being the audience in on the details .. I watched this on the edge of my chair the entire time.. I have 2013 Jetta TDI sportwagen and this would apply.. I have 91k miles and I’m going to do this job myself.. I noticed that people don’t replace the HPFP and I’m concerned about the horror stories about if those go bad it destroys entire system .. is there any thoughts on replacing that at a timing belt interval or maybe on the second belt interval? Just great video and entire production- you made it look simple 👍🏻👍🏻
Many thanks for nice words about my content 😊
As far as I know high pressure pump doesn't need to be replaced on regular basis. That Sharan from the video is on 422.000 miles and has no issues with HPFP.
So in depth! Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video!
You're very welcome :) Check out description of this job on my website:
wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
This is the best video for the 2.0 tdi timing belt change:) you can teach in automotive school.
Thanks 😊
Cambelt change is about all I know - no good for teaching in automotive schools. 😁
Great video, really helped me do my 2011 Passat 2.0 TDi, same engine and same process.
Thanks Richard - glad if it helps :)
Great video! I have to change my timing belt on my Audi A3 in the near future. It will help me a lot.
One point of criticism: you should not use grease to lubricate the o-ring of the water pump. It can be destroyed by grease. Use a little bit of coolant fluid for lubrication.
Thanks :) I was wondering why it's leaking - even top of the range pump.
That could have caused it. Coolant is chemically related to brake fluid. Therefore all hoses and seals are made from EPDM, which is also used for brake hoses. Unfortunally EPDM which will be destroyed by mineral oils.
Thank You! I know what I'm doing next cambelt change.
thanks mate that was so detailed video i have ever seen nothing was missed thanks for taking your time and make this very informative video.keep it up.👍👍
Thank you :) There will be more.. eventually :0
good job men thank,s for your time, nice work again, greetings from Portugal
+Jairo Viana Muito obrigado! :)
excellent video really admire your energy and passion also like that you talk through every step of what your doing which really helps and also good quality detail in video nice work keep it up bro :-)
Thank you :) I'll make some more videos about this car.. By the way, I also have description of this job on my website:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
DAVVERO UN BEL VIDEO, TUTTO SPIEGATO BENE. SEI MOLTO PRECISO E MOLTO BRAVO. CONGRATULAZIONI. CIAO
Grazie mille! :) Ho anche descrizione completa di questo lavoro con immagini, disponibili anche in formato stampabile. Controllare questo link:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
before removing the belt, other videos say to loosen the cam and hpfp bolts even if the pins can't be inserted. You say don't loosen the bolts if the pins can't be inserted. Can you please clarify. Thank you.
Sure, I can clarify - it doesn't really matter that much. I find that it's easier to pin camshaft and hpfp with bolts not loose .. However if you loosen those bolts and then insert pins, you won't have to put pressure on pins while loosening bolts. Yeah - loosen bolts first 👍
wonderfully done..thoroughly enjoyable..though I have to get a garage to carry this work out because I cannot afford the tools!
There are some places that you can rent for very reasonable price, they also provide tools. In Bristol, we have Rump-It-Up. Here's their website:
ramp-it-up.co.uk/
Maybe you can find something similar..
Got a problem. My sharan is not like the one you worked on. The fuel filter is to the right; the big air filter box is above the belt which is not hidden behind a cover? it is exposed And I wonder if that is right. The mounting looks different shape etc..I have a 2004 sharan 1.9tdi. Have you done of these cars. Thanks
I haven't done anything on 1.9tdi Sharan. You have previous model. But the principle is the same, get to the belt and replace it. I have one video on 1.9tdi Skoda Superb, 1st generation. But the engine in that car is positioned along the bonnet with cambelt on the front. However it gives idea of 1.9 tdi cambelt. But! 1.9tdi can be different as well :) Nightmare! I have 1.9 tdi Golf - common rail. Anyway here's the video about that Skoda:
ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html
You are the best!
Thanks 😊
Hello,
First of all: thanks for this great video!!! I've watched every minute of it, and it is very helpful for me! I will be replacing the timing belt on my 2011 VW Sharan (2.0TDI 125kW) next week.
I only have one more remark/question: what is your reference for the torques of the different bolts? Can I trust your specifications?
I have been looking around on the internet, and I find slightly different values on other sites (also not all these sites are mentioning the same torques of course :-) )
Also my 2011 Sharan's user manual for example states a wheel bolt torque of 140Nm (instead of the 130Nm you mention).
This made me doubtful about the other torques you mention in/on your video and site.
Thanks for your answer! And keep posting those videos please!
Hello, Thanks for nice words.
I based my torque values on Elsawin. Recently I have also done cambelt on 2016 Octavia based on Erwin manual from Skoda website. Torques are almost the same, considering that on newer cars there are few differences.
I'm not convinced about being able to turn 180° after tose Nm little bolts on vibration dumper (auxiliary belt pulley on crankshaft). I think Skoda manual says just 40Nm.
Engine mount and bracket bolts - torques applied to renewed bolts. If I reuse bolts - I try to be careful with those additional degrees, I go by feel.
Yeah, I think wheel bolts are 140Nm. However, on one of the tyre changes I asked a guy from tyre shop about torque - he says we do them to 120Nm. Now I also torque my wheels to 120, as it feels ok. In my humble opinion, some torque values are not as important as others. I take seriously engine mount and anything on cambelt system, but things like screws for cambelt cover I do by feel.
@@wawayltd Nice, I'll go with the Elsawin torques then :-)
Last thing: I'm also replacing the auxiliary belt and its tensioner pulley. Can you tell me the torque for this tensioner pulley please?
Thanks a lot!
Unfortunately my Elsawin is not working anymore. I have only Skoda manuals and tensioner is different there. As I remember in Sharan - there is a single 13mm bolt from the back. I never did any torque measuring there sorry, with that one I don't think it matters that much - just make it tight enough so it holds it in place.
@@wawayltd Thanks again for your answer!
Excellent job. Keep recording your tutorials. I have watched all your videos with your ex A6. Thanks
Thank you :)
Thank You for this video.. Heading into my garage to do my timing belt today..
You're very welcome :) There will be more videos about this car.
Hello,
Is it necessary to make the adaptation of the egr valve after replacement? I replaced my sharan's one like yours but I have unstable idle and a default p0403.
Thank you for your opinion.
CORDIALLY
very impressive - thank you
You're welcome 😊
Amazing video.. thanx .. after how long do you recommend changing it ?
Some people say 60.000 miles. Actual manual says 140.000 miles. Personally I would do it somewhere between 80.000 miles and 100.000.
Hi,
in Haynes manual and internet forums they say to use new engine mount bolts because the old ones are stretched and can break.
Yeah, almost every manual says to renew bolts. I might get some new ones for my next cambelt change.
Many Thanks for the excellent video I need some advice. The cambelt on my Tiguan was changed by previous owner but he didn't change the bottom & top Idler rollers, I have all the locking tools & the two rollers & Intend to swap them myself. My question is do I need to re-time it if just changing the rollers
In order to remove bottom roller, you would need to de-tension tensioner, then to remove top roller, you would have to loosen camshaft pulleys in their elongated holes (with camshafts locked, crank shaft should be locked as well in that case)... So as you can see - with everything loose, and after you re-tension it again you definitely need to check and adjust timing, which I don't see to be a problem, once you've gone so far anyway. That's my view of it :)
@@wawayltd .... Thank- you for your help. i have been watching your video & have down loaded the pdf so should be good to go...
Excellent video. Thank you.
You're welcome :) There will be more.
Hello what is that small blinking LED light in the engine @53:41 ? (top half screen on the right)
That's reflection of my GoPro camera 😁
I found that the camshaft pin has a closer tolerance than the crank locking tool. If you turn the crank clockwise 'slowly' until the cam pin goes in you will find the crank lock will fit. Both a nice fit. Putting the crank lock on first does not often align the cam pin exactly..
Totally agree. I think locking for cams is a bit too tight.
Hello, thanks again for your excellent and informative video
I have to change my distribution and I do not know which brand of better quality to buy, could you advise me a reliable brand?
Do you need to change the regulator and accessory belt at the same time? my sharan is from 2012.
And thank you in advance.
Most common brand is Gates, I buy Ruville from my local supplier. I didn't change accessory belt for a while - just check condition, it's not expensive to change too. What do you mean by regulator?
Thanks for the answers, I meant the spring tensioner of the belt of accessories.
As a mark of timing belt, I was advised the contitech or skf used by Volkswagen.
what do you think ?
Hi. Interesting video. Would there be any way that changing the timing belt could affect the steering wheel electrics? Ie after changing the cam belt the driver's side airbag error shows, the horn stops working, the buttons on the wheel stop working?
I don't think it is affected by cambelt. Looks like you have bad connection to steering wheel. Probably clock spring.
it's the clock spring I had to change it on mine Tiguan, is not that difficult only taking the steering wheel apart may give you some work.
Thank you for this helpfull Video!!How do you measure the degrees for the bolts that hold the motor, exspecially when it is so bad reachable? Looking forward for your help. Thanks!
Do you mean engine mount? Come on it's simple. 90 - quarter of the full turn. 45 - 1/8, 180 half a turn. If it's bad reachable, I have a system - have a look at your socket, pick a letter, number or any mark on it and decide where it has to be facing after you finish.
Hi, timimng belt snapp and some cam rockers broken snd replace I could not time it properly. Do you have any video on timing the cam with the cover off. Thank you
I don't have such a video, sorry...
Good day. I would like to complement you on a great video! … Just one question; can the engine bend valves if the belt slipped while the engine was running?
Thank you :) Yes. It never happened to me, but I have seen bent valves and damaged pistons after broken cambelt in in one garage on display .
Did you have to cycle fuel pump with vag.com (vcds) after air in system from fuel filter removal ?
No. There's not so much of air gets into fuel system in this job. When you start the car you won't even notice anything. But keep the fuel inside filter though 😏
Thanks for your shared .
Is it the same with SHARAEN 2.0 TDi 150ph 2016 type ?
I think so. If your engine looks the same - then it;s the same cambelt.
I will be waiting for your clutch video my dear
Hi sir im watching your lovely and help full videos i really appreciate it many thank for uploading these videos. since 2012 im Driving on Seat Alhambra 2.00TDI 140BH I never had any problem with these lovely cars. just last week the Engine management light came on mt dashboard .one of friend diagnosed my car and the cod was P261A00 coolant pumpB . so if I buy the part can i replace it my self ?
I looked for info about this code and it looks like it applies to electrically operated pumps. Pump in our car is not electric, it's driven by cambelt. So what you need to find out first - what causing this error. Maybe some sensor, or overheating, or some heater fault. Unfortunately I don't know :(
Hi. I have Seat alhambra 1.9 tdi year 2007. Is it the same procedure to change the timing belt as on your video? Thanks.
Didn't have to deal with car like yours yet. I suppose getting to the belt should be similar. But 1.9 engine could be slightly different. If it's 2007 - it's probably PD engine. I just uploaded 1.9 tdi PD engine video on different car :
ruclips.net/video/LqeIe7pOVP8/видео.html
wots the tool called u sed for bleeding the water plz as just had mine changed but being a bit of a pain to get it bleeded thx for vid m8
If you are talking about bleeding coolant, then garages would have the machine that they put on to expansion tank to create the pressure, then open bleeding points to let the air out. However, normally it would be enough to rev the engine up and put heating on full (both sides).
hello mate. very good video. would this method apply to vw passat b7 2.0tdi cffb engine? many thanks
Yes. My engine is also CFFB. As far as I know B7 classes as a facelift of B6, so for how to get to the cambelt - I have another video about Passat B6:
ruclips.net/video/OffyDbc3jgA/видео.html
Hi. What a great video. Thank you for taking the time to help us all. I do have 2 questions though. Would this be pretty close to the Ford Galaxy zetec 2.0 tdi 2007? Also could you recommend a book for the galaxy.
Regarding cambelt, it should be more like in this video:
ruclips.net/video/OWkTJToMW1M/видео.html
And for manuals I look on ebay, I can recommend this seller, get hold of him, he's very helpful:
www.ebay.co.uk/usr/partsworkshop
Dit is erg netjes en correct .top
hi. perfect video documentation with great comment. i have vw touran 2013 with the same engine planning to get this replace. any idea what brand water pump and cambelt and all parts are the best ? what one u installed.? INA ,GATES ,CONTITECH
I buy Ruville cambelt kit from GSF. As for water pump - just go for whatever is best on market, because they have reputation of leaking. Some mechanics even apply a bit of sealant stuff , there are different opinions regarding that. I've done it in my cambelt video on a Passat.
As for cambelt kit - I'm not saying that Ruville is the best possible option ever. It's just one of the good brands that is easy to buy for me.
great video. even 5 yrs later.
Thanks Stephen 😊👍
Thank you for this!
Hi thanks for this video. Is this the best one to follow for a passat 2.0 Tdi Commonrail CBA engine? Or do you have anything specific for that vehicle/ is there anything different I should know? Thanks so much
This engine is CFFB 2.0tdi, I have done CAYC 1.6tdi and cambelt set was exactly the same. I'm not going to say 100% for your Passat, just in case - I will say highly likely it's going to be the same.
WheelsAndMotors thank you much appreciated
Did it yesterday, some small differences with my passat, an additional intermediate fuel pump, different camshaft markings but generally the same and video helped a lot thanks. A great feeling when it starts and runs good 👌
Well done Ben! 👍
Additional fuel pump?
WheelsAndMotors sorry just seen this. Yes the lifting pump from the tank, the main cam driven Fuel pump and an intermediate small pump up behind the fuel filter?
Very good video. Now i must go back to the car and check the camshaft pin, which does not fit to its hole.
They are quite tight fit. Sometimes I use 5.5mm drill bit instead, if it fits I'm satisfied. Just mind your fingers - wrap it with solitape.
Hey I would like to ask you 2 things. Why when you loosen those 3 bolts on the camshaft sprocket and turned the crankshaft to put the locking tool the screws didn't finally stop in the middle of the gaps (I hope you know about what I am writing). And If they didn't be in the middle nothings gonna happen ? Because first you said that they should be in the middle. The secon question is couldn't you also loose those 3 bolts on the high pressure pump sprocket to allign them all 3 together (camshaft, crankshaft and high pressure pump) ? Thanks :)
You have to leave those bolts in the middle, when you fit the belt, to be able to adjust camshaft with the crankshaft, so you have some space either side. Adjusting timing is not about those bolts being in the middle, but to be able to lock crankshaft and camshaft at the same time with right tension, and those bolts in the middle of their elongated holes can move for adjustments. High pressure pump doesn't have to be aligned so precise, otherwise it will take you ages, even aligning camshaft takes some time. Manual says - as long as high pressure pump is within 5mm with locking point it's not a problem.
Ok. Will you make a video about changing the timing belt on MK4 Golf TDI? It's 1.9 TDI 90km ALH ?
I think that the Golf I have in my garage now has this (or very similar) engine. But, currently I don't have any time... Maybe at some point in the future.
very very clear explination.
Thanks!
Hi, You mention a manual a couple of times. Where did you get the manual from. Thank you.
Normally I get info from different sources to get complete "picture", like Haynes, forums, RUclips... But if you've got VAG car (VW, Audi, SEAT or Skoda), I would recommend Elsa or Elsawin. Have a look on eBay for "elsawin" or check this link:
rover.ebay.com/rover/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?icep_id=114&ipn=icep&toolid=20004&campid=5338022028&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dm570.l1313%26_nkw%3Delsawin%26_sacat%3D0
Thank you for your feedback. I have a 07 touran, so I will check out that link. Great video really helped me understand the process fully. Keep up the great content and hopefully you will get one of those RUclips awards 😀
Great tips , thank's for the video!
Is the change preconised at 210000km and periodical change as in around 5 years or more? Thank's again. Cheers!
Yes, something about that. My owners manual is in miles (I live in UK), and it says 140.000 miles. I find it strange, because dealership told me about my previous car Audi A6 - 60.000 miles (100.000km). I checked my cambelt after doing 80.000 miles from this video and it was in great condition, so I decided to postpone it till next service. Maybe I'm wrong, but I don't want to run it for all 140.000 miles (210.000km), so I'll do it in 2 weeks on 90.000 miles after last change. You see, I'm a taxi driver and I depend to much on this car, so I want to be safe. Years don't apply to me, because in 5 years I do 300.000 miles or half a million km :)
Yea i think its not better to wait 140000miles bit too much plus driving in a capital city waers the parts more i guess. I am on 110000km but 6 years guess i ll do it, i saw somewhere in the internet they say 140miles or 10years i think thats too long to risk your car engine. Plus i am getting a sound from the engine bay when the car is running like a small friction or rubbing sound.
When doing my timing belt job on my 1.6 VW TDI engine (same layout as yours), it looks like after two turnovers of the engine the tesnioner was a bit "too tight" - to the right side. You mentioned that it needs to be in the middle of the slot or up to 5 mm to the right side. From memory, mine is about 7 mm to the right. Is this really bad and something I should lose sleep overnight? Or should I re-do the entire job again? Thank you
Sorry, took me while to reply. In your case I wouldn't worry about it. Try to see it when engine is hot or when it's running - it's all over the place :) Just make sure nut on the tensioner is tight to correct torque, also other nuts and bolts. If your timing is correct - it's all good.
@@wawayltd Well, problem is that there is a "whining" sound when the motor is running, heard on higher RPMs. It was not there before the TB job. The mechanic says that he also "hears something".
Anyway. This evening I will leave the car at the workshop overnight for the engine to cool down, tomorrowm morning we will remove the coolant tank, fuel filter and the DPF pressure sensor bracket, remove bottom plastics, turn the cold engine to TDC and check where the tensioner actually is. While we are there, in case it's off, it will take us only to remove the serpentine belt and the crank vibration damper/puller to lock the engine and re-tention the belt....
I will report back!
So as promised, some update.
At the moment of the service/inspection I talked about in the above post, the new timing belt components have exaclty 200 km on them. We removed serpentine belt, popped the TB cover, rotated cold engine to TDC. The tensioner was a bit on the lose (left) side, in fact just the beginning of the "slot". During engine turnover (as well as engine running), the tensioner was stable and never went to the high side.
We decided to tighten the tensioner just a little bit, so (without any locking tools), we loosened the nut, turned the tensioner to the right side a bit and retightened.
The whining sound is still there - we tried to listen to it but it seems that the belt itself is making that sound.
Worth mentioning that the belt is the "reinforced" one - with PTFE (Teflon) coating on the inside of it. (Google for PTFE Teflon coated timing belt). These are known to be "more noisy" but I didn't have a clue that kind of noise they are supposed to make :)
So, at this point I will keep motoring on.
Thanks for all the tips and advice given
@@hid3nax Never heard of teflon cambelts.. Although I also never went into details of how they are made. Perhaps that whining noise is from your mega-armoured belt :) I like your loving attitude to your car. I have the same - can't sleep if something's not right..
@@wawayltd Please see this: dayco.com.au/page.aspx?A=8214
Pay attention to the inner side (on the picture) having white coating and you will understand what I am talking about. Mine is the same, also made by Dayco. (I specifically was looking for reinforced belt when I was seeking for good quality TB kit).
As for the whine, you can read opinions from people who have used them. Most people say they notice whine, others say they don't but I suppose they don't pay enough attention. I saw posts where people replaced back all the rollers but left the belt itself in place and it still whined. Some threads:
forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php?p=3334412&postcount=9
forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?t=319105
etc...
And yes, I really have attitude to my car - everything is in perfect condition, both visually and from the technical side. Knock on wood. The car is 8 years old from the date of manufacture.
Is it right to say, if i go and lock my crankshaft, and i cannot put the pin in the hole where the camshaft needs to be locked, then it needs adjusting? My belt were changed 3 years ago. Just want to check
Yes. It's right. If you are getting there you might as well replace it :) Also I must say, it depends on locking pins - some of them don't fit if hole matches, but there is still slight deviation. Thanks to mobile phone cameras you can see what's going on. My personal opinion - if the hole is in the middle - don't worry about the pin, so many times I replaced cambelt and pin didn't fit before change. Still need to change cambelt if it's knackered.
WheelsAndMotors just worried that might end up trying to adjust 100 times and wont get anywhere. Torsion value says if everything ok ? Needs to be close to 0 ?
You don't need to go do 100 times to get it right. As long as you do it correctly and with the belt tension clockwise, as it should be with natural engine rotation. Still can be few times, but not too much - don't worry. I know that previous generation of TDI's - PD engines could be quite sensitive to cambelt change, so to do it properly they used to connect VAG-COM and set torsion value for fuel injection timing, because each injector also worked as a pump. As far as I know, with this one it's easier. High pressure pump is timed and spinning by cambelt, and as it says in video and manual - you don't need to be able to fit pin in the pump, it can be away within 5 mm. Don't worry Vilius, once you start doing it, you'll have a feeling and understanding that it's all easy :)
Thanks. I will give it a go
Excellent video! Thank you
You're very welcome 👍
Very detailed Video！ Helps me a lot! Thank you!
You're very welcome :) If you're going to do it - print out instructions from my website:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
can i one quest; you use both of them 1/2 and 3/8 bolts ? witch one or both of them need it ?
Emircan Demir If you are talking about ratchets, I don't have 3/8. I have 1/4 for smaller stuff and 1/2 where I could do with a bit more strength.
I have a Seat Alhambra 2017 and the milage is 80,000 so its time to change cambelt and water pump ? any advice plz
My previous car was Audi A6 4F, it was advised to change cambelt every 60.000 miles, this Sharan's manual says - every 140.000 miles. Confusing. When I look at the cambelt that has done 80.000 miles it looks almost like new... Anyway, for myself I just change every 100.000 miles.
@@wawayltd thank u
Hello brother how are you my name is naeem from new delhi india my question polo 1.2 desel high pressure pump timing out.. car problem white smoke and Mising my macanic says no problem high pressure any timing
Sorry Naeem, I don't know how important the timing is for a high-pressure pump. I'm not a mechanic, so perhaps your mechanic knows better. By the way, how do you know that timing is out? Do you get any fault codes?
hi thanks for reply i did bought the gates cam belt kit witch it come with water pump from ebay but some mechanic told me its not the good idea to use it as they start to make a noise from cambelt after about 6 months or so and i have to doit again i search for genuine part from ebay but cant find any with water pump so what brand do u suggest to use if not the genuine does Bosch or skf dayco is any good or just fit genuine part where can i get them from thanks for advice ...
anyway i researching to buy some tools like support beam and cambelt tool
I bought my cambelt kit from GSF Car Parts. If you sign up for email vouchers, they send 40-43% discount codes on weekends. Don't remember brand, but in my opinion it was good one, had lots of stuff, such as replacement bolts, studs - everything. Kit did not include water pump, so I bought it separately.
Tool set was bought on eBay - does the job.
Hi sir if you contact with German Swedish parts be better than Ebay ,
Excellent video sir
Thanks 👍
hi good work. your set is 1/2" 25pcs ? first show part
Hi, thanks, yes it's 25pc set.
WheelsAndMotors 1.2 or 3.8 ?
Emircan Demir 1/2
Emircan Demir It doesn't have to be this particular set ;)
:) Clearly. Very thanks
Hello, do you know if the procedure it's the same for CBAB/CBAC engines?
Andrei Nitu If it looks the same, then it should be the same. I'll check when I'll get the chance.
thanks alot! keep up the good work!
Just had a look in computer - yes, it's the same
thanks man, you are the best!
Hi.It's a problem if I put the smaller nut to the tensioner?!
Don't think it should be a big issue... But I'd rather go with 15mm, I'm not professional, so just in case wouldn't risk.
Hi will this the same process to get to cambelt as vw golf mk5 1.9tdi match 2007 ?
By the way great detail video the best I ever see keep up the good work bro
That's it :) You got it. Take idea from both videos 1.9tdi Skoda and this one, shouldn't be a rocket science. Let us know how you getting on!
Will this be similar to Sharan 2018 diesel automatic?
Kind of similar, but not the same. If I'm not mistaken you have Euro 6 engine with water cooled intercooler.
I've done cambelt recently on Euro 6 Skoda, but didn't have enough time to make a video.
Idea is the same. On camshaft pulley you probably will have just one bolt in the middle and little bolt T30 as limiter, so instead of 3 bolts around as in this video, you'll have to do middle bolt. Water pump is different, it has electric connector for some actuator, no big idler pulley.
But idea is still the same. However you will need different crankshaft lock (different tool).
This engine is almost identical to the CBAA engine I have in my MK6 Golf right?
Sorry Elijah, took me some time to reply.. Yes, I just checked the manual - you right, it is almost identical.
WheelsAndMotors no problem, thank you for replying! I'm doing this job right now with your help. Thank you for uploading this
You're welcome :) I also have a full description of this with images and also available in printable format:
www.wheelsandmotors.com/show_solution.php?id=55
thanks man..very educative
You're welcome :) I'll make more videos about this car..