Tom, each video I watch I gain more and more respect for you. "mains voltage is always very painful and sometimes deadly" That is very true, and I fully agree with. But the reason its important is because many youtubers who have no clue what they are doing say the most stupidest stuff such as "be careful with 24v dc voltage!!!" or even "be careful when spilling the cables your phone charger, you can electrocute yourself" No joke, I head that one before But you are the first youtuber who actually knows what hes doing, knows whats safe and what to watch out for, and I have to say thank you.
Actually, 24V can be dangerous, too. It depends on your body's impedance. With dry skin, it has a impedance of 100k-600k Ohm, but with wet skin, it drops down to 1k-500 Ohm. Generally, anything above 10mA can hurt you. Well it's just not right to say, that 24V could not be painful. BE CAREFUL WITH 24V. Not as careful as with 110 or even 230V/AC, but still, be careful.
the danger of 24v is not usually contact skin. on most condition it gives you a bad buzz and a lil pain if anything happens. the dangerous lie in melting cables fires and worse. you can make a fire even with 5v. or 3.3v tbh. also he didn't talk about the failing of SSRs specially the cheap ones he used. he didn't mention grounding your printer either.
Hello Tom, serious concerns here: SSRs can stay in an on state when they fail( I know, you mentioned it). This can also happen if you run them within their specification. Especially with those fake fotek ebay-china relais. To make sure to not set your printer/room/house on fire, imo you should think about updating the video and recommend the usage of a thermal resistor which cuts off your mains at eg 180°.
Hi. I'm running mosfets on my printer, and I know that they can also fail closed - which worries me. You mentioned a thermal resistor - do you mean a thermal fuse? I'm not certain what good a thermistor is going to do, it's not going to shut down the mains unless there's some other device it's controlling.
@@_JustBeingCasual Not talking about it disconnecting when power is removed, we're talking about what they do when they break. When they break, they stay connected permanently, meaning that whatever they control (a heater element for example) can overheat and cause a fire.
Hello Tom, Thank you for all your videos. When I am in my shop I turn on your videos and have the play over and over while working. Listening to them through you I figure out more on my side. I am writing today because I am trying to upgrade to a 12v silicon heater pad. I have already upgraded the MOSFET from your MOSFET video. When I try to run the heater pad through the ramps 1.4 it will get to 60c then will drop to 36c and maintain. I tried to follow your diagram for the SSR. I used a SSR-40 DA. I hooked up (from the ramps) the positive to (3) on the DC input and negative to (4) DC input. On the AC side (1) to positive to the ac plug and the other AC side to one side the heater pad. The other wire of the heater pad was connected to (2) of the SSR. When all powered on it was ok. When I used the display dial to call for heat the SSR fried. What did I do wrong?
When working with mains power, you might want to use a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) outlet. If you come in contact with the hot/live side of mains and current flows through your body to an ground path, like your feet or other hand, other than the neutral side hooked to the GIF, it will shut the power off before you are harmed. *NOTE:* As indicated, if you touch both wires from the GFI, it won't protect you. Another safety device that is similar to the protection provided by the GFI is the isolation transformer.
I've had very good results with a Fotek SSR-40 DD (DC-DC) relay to run a MK2B heatbed. I just got tired of the long heating time (when going above 100C), so I got a separate 24VDC PSU (and tweaked it up to 30VDC) just for the bed. This works really well even with PID and heats up very quickly. I did make sure to connect to the 24V input on the MK2B. I also bought a heatsink for the realy in case the PID caused it to heat up, but it barely gets warm to the touch (using marlin with default PWM).
Richard Turnock I don't think it took a month for me, more like 2 weeks. I bought it because I found several other people who has had success with it and because it was not very expensive. I also took extra care when using it to ensure it would work as intended. All in all I think the risk of getting fake stuff is not actually that high.
hi...my ramps power connector got a little burnt(from 11amp port). I ran the printer for 12 hrs...with the bed temp for 65...could that be the possible reason
Just a hint: those SSR usually fail short-circuited. So any over charge will keep your heated bed on full power all the time. Maybe you should consider install a lamp in parallel just in case.
Tom, thanks for the great videos. I'm new to this, but quickly tired of waiting for the bed to heat up, so I tried switching to a 200 watt 12 volt heater on my i3 RepRap kit. First I fried the MOSFET on the RAMPS board. Having replaced that and finding this video, I bought a 25A DC-DC SSR. As soon as I hooked it up, it started melting, and would not shut off. Please cover what is required for cooling, as I thought this big, beefy thing would be able to handle the current, and had no idea it would get so hot.
awesome informational vids tom ands its great you reply to the people that need help,and most of us need as much as we can get . keep up the good work.
That's an awesome delta! I'm hoping to start my build soon. I think I'm going to go with the Smoothieboard. Do you have any advice on which extruder to choose?
Good review! I'd already learned most of this myself (Including the small leakage current, which of course reads at full mains voltage to a high-impedance meter! Scared the hell out of me at first!) and wish I'd had your advice back then. Didn't know about the new DC ones.. Yes, the usual ones can only switch AC because they use TRIACs - which can only cease conduction during zero-crossing, which of course DC doesn't do.
Jeremy Lee In fact, the small leakage current can even turn on small pilot/standby lights, (especially neons) which can make the appliance seem to be turned "on", until you do turn a major load on, and then the light goes out! (Which can be freaky.) Basically, it's good to always leave them connected directly to a resistive or inductive load, (no switch!) so the active side can't "float". And remember: even a couple of leaked milliamps will still charge up a diode/capacitor network, given time, to full lethal mains power.
Hello Tom! Thanks for all your videos!! Is it possible to use a SSR DC-AC instead of a DC-DC? I'll Explain: I have a 12v silicone heater, but my ramps is not able to run it, so I bought a SSR, but it came wrongly: a DC-AC instead of a DC-DC. I tested it with some LEDS, and it turned the leds on, but they never turn off. I don't know if the SSR has some problems or if this is caused because it is AC. Thanks a lot! Bruno from Brazil
Hello Tom! great videos, keep rockin! i have a question. ok, SSR's wiring for heated bed is quite simple. what about using an SSR to power on/off a led power supply? where (on RAMPS) can i connect the SSR's input? to PS_ON and Ground? will it work?
if i buy a temp controller and want to avoid the bead connecting to the board at all, then do i need an SSR, ou just the bed heater and the control box? The control box hooks direct to the wall.
Hey Tom, got a question on this. I hooked my 120VAC silicone heater to the same model SSR that you listed and worked great for a while. I then started having issues with my control board just stopping printing randomly and eventually stopped working altogether. I thought it was just a bad board so I got a new one. Hooked everything up and started printing and then I started having issues where the board would lock up whenever I tried to heat the bed. The temp would start to rise and then would randomly stop and the board would be locked up. Reset fixes until bed is being heated again... eventually that board also stopped working. I thought maybe there was a problem with the SSR so I got a new one and a new board. Done a 19 hour print without the heated bed with no problems. Decided to print some ABS so I started the heated bed and after a few minutes it did the same thing. Board stops responding. Now when I heat the hotend it says it is to temp (210c) but is not able to melt the PLA so I am afraid that I have fried another board. I have verified that the polarity is correct on the DC side and the AC side is wired correctly as well. Could the SSR be the problem? I started to entertain the idea that it was the heater but it should not be able to affect the control board through the SSR could it? Borards used: Smoothieboard (official) MKS Sbase Azteeg X3 18ga wire on DC side About the same on the AC side (came with heater) Now I am gun shy on hooking my heated bed back up to any new boards that I get. =(
Hi Tom. I have a custom Prusa i3 using RAMPS 1.4 and a 3MM MK3 Aluminum Board PCB Heat Bed. I have a 40a DC-DC SSR to control my heat bed. When I use my printer by itself and print from SD cards, the bed works flawlessly. As soon as I plug my printer into the USB of my PC to print, the SSR and bed turn on and do not turn off until I unplug the USB. What causes this and how can I fix this?
Tom, great video once again. I am just putting in a request to you to make a full length video of electrical concepts involved in wiring any 3D Printer board, highlighting the dangers/tips/tweaks that involve wire gauge, stepper motor drive, currents and how they correspond to the pins. So that even a beginner can understand how to effectively build the electronics for the 3D Printer board. Thanks in advance
hello tom in my silicone heated bed i have one red file and one black file and with your dessin i don't understand how wiring for good job , for this moment doesn't work could you help me please thanks in advance
Can i ask why you have those extremely long arms on your delta? You should be able to get away with shorter ones, and still be able to utilize the full build space. You would also get more build height will shorter rods.
Hey Tom! I really like your videos and they have been quite enlightening! You cover everything one should know in order to get into 3d printing! One question here, though; Why are solid state relays only mentioned? Can I not use simple relays with 5 terminals? Thanks in advance!
Hey Thomas, great video indeed! My question is, I bought a 600W silicone heated pad, and it has a resistance of 0.22 ohm. If I connect it using an AC solid state relay with 220V AC, don't you think it will draw a huge current(220*220/0.22 ampere) and trip my mcb?
If it is 0.22 ohms, it's clearly not made for 220V, but 12V. Calculating the power output at 12 volts w/ 0.22 ohms gives you around 600 watts. Current would be around 50 amps however.
Hello Tom, Im now using a silicone heatbed with a relay but im having a problem, the bed keeps heating even when i set a temperatura it goes beyond that, do you have any idea if i have to change something else in the firmware lets say? I changed PWM to the lowest already but it didnt help. Ill appreciate your help, thanks!
Hi Thomas! And thanks for all this informative videos! I wonder if going with a ac powered Silicone pad and SSR what is the best settings regarding the PID or should I use bang-bang mode instead? Someone said that the SSR is not build for switching power on/off so fast the PID settings make.
Ok found the answer in the marlin config video! But you dont mentioned any settings for the hysteresis. Just wonder how to get the best settings there?
I got a question about my MK3 Heated Bed for my prusa i3 (RAMPS Based, 12 480W PSU) What are expected Headup times for 60 or 100^C? I insulated the bottom side of the Bed, but it still takes about 10-15 min for 60^C and about an Hour for 100^C. Is that normal, or what should i check?
A nice video, but you should have said something about always using a residual current circuit breaker / personal protection switch (Fehlerstromschutzschalter/Personenschutzschalter) when using an AC heatbed in a 3d printer. A residual current circuit breaker measures the current on the phase and the neutral. If there is a difference between the currents, some current is going a wrong way - through the case to ground or through a person to ground. It breaks the current in 20ms or less. In your house electric, residual current circuit breaker is mostly installed for bathrooms, but not for the other rooms. But there are residual current circuit breaker available as adapter you can plug in your AC socket and plug your 3d printer in the adapter. Also there are plugs with integrated residual current circuit breaker, so if your AC cable is fixed on the printer (no appliance coupler on the printer), use a cable with residual current circuit breaker in the plug. More secure than an adapter because you will never forget to use it...
Thank you so much for that tip. I have on question though. if my powersupply is grounded properly and is touching the metal frame, it is protected against any shorts from that powwerline. but if i have to connect an other mains power line for the heated bed, do i have to conect the ground wire from that powerline to the frame or is the one ground from the first powerline enough? Greetings from a felow german ;-)
The power supply just touching the frame will not mean the frame is propperly grounded. A frame normaly is coated. So for electrical connection you may file the coating off on contacting points; without an Fehlerstromschutzschalter you may also have to connect all parts of the frame (and the heated bed) with 16A/230V sufficient wire. With a Fehlerstromschutzschalter of course filing the coating at the contacts between frame parts (and maybe a little wire to the heatbed) is a good idea also, but as 20mA is enough to trigger the Fehlerstromschutzschalter its much less work. With a Fehlerstromschutzschalter of course any contact to main voltage is limited to 20ms, so even without grounding frame and bed any electrical shock should not be lethal (which is the main function of a Fehlerstromschutzschalter). A healty grown up will normaly not be hurt by an 20ms shock. A Fehlerstromschutzschalter will be enough protektion without further modifications. However, If you have heard insufficience, a peacemaker (Herzschrittmacher) or small children, file all coating at contacting points of the frame and add a little cable from metall heatbed to frame - so any contact between main and metal parts will trigger the Fehlerstromschutzschalter imeditliy.
Im not really sure how you mean by configure in Marlin about PWM... I did auto PID but feels like its wrong. The AC ssr that i use has a light on it and as when the power comes on the light comes on and off...flashing :/
That's what it's supposed to do. The control signal is a pulse (PWM), so it switches the SSD output on and off a few times per second. SSD-AC works with PID just fine, but it can cause flickering of your room lights (esp., LEDs) because of the frequent turning of the heavy (750W) load On and Off. This was the only reason for me to stop using PID for the bed of my CR-10S printer.
@@mikepek3863 Thx for answer. But i also see other thing while tuning PID. When having as default 1.0 in PWM the light goes on and flashes abit when coming close to it's set temperature. And again goes on to keep the temp ofcause. But if i lower the PWM even with 0.1 the flash starts.
Thanks for all the great videos, they are really professionally done, and I enjoy the "To the point" and accurate information. Please do the Mosfet video! and if possible, a Ramps modification video. I really like the ramps board for the price and would like to know if modding it (ie changing the mosfet etc.) would make it work with larger / other setups. Even though it is a immensely popular board, actual information on how to safely do different mods to it, are scarce and shifty at best.
Hey Tom, me again - have you got a preferred Aliexpress provider for that heater mat? I'm having some difficulty finding one that lists options for custom mats like your other video shows.
Hey tom I really need help. I bought on of the ssr that you mentioned in the video for my delta but I don't know if it will work. I'm using a 210 diameter 12v pcb heated build plate.
Bought this one: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009SXHJD6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 Should be fine; but we will see. Just scared it will fail in the on 'position.'
+Thomas Sanladerer, I bought an SSR-25DD, which should have powered my 200w heater (200w/12v = 16 2/3 A), but the SSR melted. Polarities were correct, so what else could I have done wrong?
Hello, very good video is clear, however, the temperature does not stop rising, it never stops, the only way is to disconnect the source once the printing is over, thanks if someone can help me.
You didn't talk about any of the safety stuff tbh. those SSRs can be dangerous and get stuck on and the thermal runaway won't be able to do anything about it. You'd need a heat triggered fuses and some current fuses too. the ssr doesn't have any fuses included you also better ground every metal part of your printer so if the wires come lose or worse it shorts and shuts off or something and so it doesn't give you a shock. even with dc tho grounding your frame is a good idea to get rid of interference.
***** Thank you, I planned to build a delta soon, I guess I will go for Smoothie :) Could you make a review of your delta, I see that you use different design where Openbeam stand twisted at 45 degree angle and use V groove delrin wheel, how is it compare to HIWIN guide rail or normal 3 wheels.
Hi Tom. One point you missed stressing was that ANY SSR, be it Chinese or German, absolutely needs a heat sink to carry its rated capacity. Without a heat sink, the manufacturers tell you that you must derate the current carrying capacity by a whopping 90%!!! That's what a lot of these Chinese 'bashers' here and elsewhere call them junk when, in fact, they just don't have the capacity to research before opening their mouths. :) THEY NEED A PROPER HEAT SINK that can be bought usually on the same page that they bought the SSR from.
***** Planning to buy a 3d printer. What do you suggest prusa i3 style or delta style like rostock mini. In this vid I see a delta printer. Which one do you prefer most in longer terms. Thanks.
Hi Thomas, question again, after watch this vid, I start searching for some main-powered heated bed and came across something called "Cast aluminium heaters plate"(google it to see what I mean). It look like a cast aluminium block with tubular heating elements embedded. Many seller claim that it can power up to 3-4 W/sq.cm which sound really good for heated bed and since it's solid aluminium block it should dissipate heat very evenly and look like it's very durable too, the only downside I can think of is you lose a bit of print height(it's 20mm thick) and weight if you use on printer that have moving bed. Any idea this thing might work or not? PS. I use it for Delta by the way. Also an idea for your video, how about "All about safety you should know when build and use 3D printer, especially overnight printing" :)
Hi TOM! i'm building a custom 300x600mm build size printer,and i've already ordered a custom silicon heating pad for it, and i was wondering about the best approach to provide 24v (660W) to the pad, should i just get a bigger MOSFET, and run it off of my MKS smoothie board or go with he SSR or may be get a PID Temperature Controller with it to control it separately? And BTW Thank you for the awesome videos I've learned quite a bit from you.
+Ancton Zandor MOSFET is no good. go with either SSR to Printer board, or SSR to digital PID temperature controller. which is most likely what i'm going to go with
tom love and subscribe so figured Id ask my first question and i try to do my homework so i dont have to but , with ssr and silicone pad do we do pid bed temps or bang bang ..guy on a anet facebook saying I shouldn't use pid it will It will weld the switch and rune it, wondering your thoughts I'm using 110v silicon heater and auber dc to ac ssr mgr-1 d4825 25a when using bang bang it lights up stays on then turns off till drops flux aboiut 5 degrees.. use pid and auto tune and set in firmware and its locked at what ever I set but flickers on and off rapidly each second
Really liking the addition of background music :P idk if you've done it before, perhaps i've just missed it? Either way, it really ties the video together :D
can you make a review about the kossal 3d printer and the best place to buy one plzz. nice work overall keep it up i like your channel and more are always welcome.
I should warn that SSR can and do fail, and when they do, they almost ALWAYS fail shorted. This means that your heater will be in runaway mode and that even if the Marlin (or other firmware) detects this, all it can do is stop the print and display a warning message on the LCD screen. It will attempt to turn off the heater, but that will fail because the relay is shorted! What I would recommend would be to have TWO control outlets for the heater on the ramps (or other control board). The usual one would control the SSR and switch it to control the bed temperature. The second output would control a magnetic relay placed in series with the SSR and would always be energized while the bed heater is on. In the event of a failure the software would then kill the second output. I've had two SSR's fail on me, and I was lucky that both times it happened while I was monitoring the situation. Since an AC powered bed heater might not be switched along with the printer power (bad idea, provide a means of killing power to the heater when the printer is off, don't rely on the SSR for that!), you could have a real melt down if you left and thought the printer was off! In retrospect I might have had the failures because my AC heater is operated at about 1/3 the mains voltage via a 120 to 48 volt step down transformer, and the SSR switches the primary of the transformer. I usually don't think of a transformer as an inductive load (motors are), but maybe the SSR could not handle that, even though it was VERY much over rated for the task (25A SSR switching less than 3 amps). I should try switching the secondary of the transformer, I think the SSR will work at 24vac and up. BTW I was using "bang bang" regulation, you can't PWM AC though a transformer, at least not unless you manage to synchronize the switching at zero crossings.
It's what I was thinking plus If by misfortune your were touching the live wire of the AC primary and the GFCI/RCCB safety device would not work properly you could smoke your soul! I was looking for a AC/DC 48V setp down sPSU that is totally insulated from earth to go along with a DC/DC SSR so no problems if your body got in contact with one of the two wires. I might consider adding a fuse in series in addition to the magnetic relay. 48V with 4amps would give enough jus to heat a silicon bed and reducing by four the current so the risks of starting fire at the connecting points...
Transformers are pretty much *the* inductive load in a home setting. Old fashioned low voltage halogen lights behind a traditional transformer is why dimmers capable of inductive loads were even sold, back a decade or two ago.
+Jessica Ryan I'd be happy to help, but we need more info as to when your nozzle clogs, what filament you're using, the temps...basically anything you can say.
It does the test extrusion ok. I have done the test configuration the filament at the right speed. It clogs up when I am trying to do a print even though I have done the correct configuration for the filament speed. I have cleaned the nozzle each time to make sure it doesn't happen. Thank you for offering to help Justin.
How soon does your nozzle clog after pressing print? Also, could you please say your temp and plastic type? For example, if your using PLA, you should be around 190-200C and ABS should be 220-230C or so.
Does it clog on the first layer? I find that most clogs I encountered where caused by an incorrect temps, or my extruding pushing out too much plastic(which causes a jam because the plastic has no place to go). I would suggest you check the steps/mm for your extruder setup, then make sure your layer height is around 60-80% the diameter of your printer's nozzle. And finally, make sure your printer nozzle isn't too close to the bed during the first layer's print.
+Jessica Ryan Also, one more note...You'll want to ask 3d printing related questions, you don't really want to ask on youtube channels for help. Tom's guides are outstanding and a great way to get pointed in the right direction, but there's a lot to this. I would suggest becoming a member of forums.reprap.com Ask your questions there and I promise you'll find answers, or at least be pointed in an appropriate direction to find them.
The music at the beginning of this video drowns out what you are saying. You might want to consider lowering the volume somehow or removing it all together?
Where did you get the 230V AC heater mats (I specifically look for 300x300 or 350x300) around 600-1000W would be perfect, or what would you recommend ?
2 Thumbs Up !! You are a RUclips GOD,,,,,,,,,, dude. The Hardware King... Seriously,, you're top dog,,, hands-down. Of course keep making vids,, plzzzzzzz. Do you have an "Amazon-Link",, that I can bookmark,, and shop through ??? I'll snoop around and see if I missed it.
Europe is actually 220v. Only the UK is not 220v, the UK is 240v. Anything that claims to be "230v" is simply designed to run on either Euro 220v or UK 240v. Its basically marketing - there is no "230v" grid anywhere in Europe.
***** Great Video. I followed links to eBay however there are so many different sellers and i have been warned about fraudulent Fotek SSR sellers - and these are all from China - plus the deliver time is about a month.I found an AC-DC SSR local that they got from Sparkfun. However, they don't have the DC-DC SSR that I want. I have a 24v power supply that powers my 3D printer, with Taurino Power PCB but using existing Ramps 1.4, did not buy the upgraded Ramps for 24v, maybe I will have to do that instead of using SSR. Using SSR with Main voltage (120V here in US) is not safe with exposed connections like the SSR has. I will go buy the upgraded Ramps with the better Diodes for F2 and F1 to use with 24v.
Richard Turnock you could use a good old dumb and dirt cheap relay. Even though it is less sexy it really does the job well (check my comment above). Just switch the firmware to bang-bang.
Jeremie Francois "...a good old dumb and dirt cheap relay"Yes, but I am learning daily about electricity and Java so on a steep learning curve. Which one? Which dumb, cheap relay? You mean like an automobile relay? which one?
Richard Turnock the easiest is to buy an existing relay module made for arduino boards in the first place. Most sub-$2 "relay module optocoupler" on ebay will be fine. Almost all of them would be suitable, unless you have a HUGE hotbed. Just check the voltage & power for your bed. E.g. at $1.50 the one below is more than enough. Ohm's law says P=UI : power(W) = voltage(V) x intensity(I), so this small relay already handles 300 watts of power in DC mode, way more than what you could get out of a usual 3D printer power supply. To be safer even, consider only the 10 amps it may drive: with 12V at 10A you can drive a 120 watt hot bed, and with a good margin. E.g.: www.ebay.com/itm/1-Channel-H-L-Level-Triger-Optocoupler-Relay-Module-for-Arduino-5V-New-/251338554396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a84f1fc1c Using an automotive relay is both more expensive and more cumbersome as you would have to add some components to drive the relay coil (the trigger). The output of a microcontroller is certainly not powerful enough on its own to drive a bare relay (you would burn them). You get tons of doc on the web with relay + arduino. This is also why I recommend the few more cents that an optocoupler adds to the bill, because it fully isolates your board (though this is not compulsory). Check the fake one! An optocoupler-enabled relay board is visible (the small blocky black or white 4-pin component on the board). The other kind of relay board are driven by regular transistors.
Hi, my friend, good night, I'm Brazilian. I liked your videos. I'm needing help to set up the 3d printer's warm bed here in my country. No one insinates correctly. More Americans are very good at everything. Can you help me? Could you make a little video of how to do it. a heated bed of 1 square meter how to make the beds connection the correct wiring step by step well explained only seeing you do I do here do not understand very well your language I am translating in the translator translator if you want to help me I will touch the sini ok And give a gift, have a good night and everything Mostrar menos RESPONDER
Could you use a SSR for the PCB style heater? I know most require DC but I am wondering if you could get a faster heating time by using AC voltage instead.
Tom, each video I watch I gain more and more respect for you.
"mains voltage is always very painful and sometimes deadly"
That is very true, and I fully agree with. But the reason its important is because many youtubers who have no clue what they are doing say the most stupidest stuff such as "be careful with 24v dc voltage!!!" or even "be careful when spilling the cables your phone charger, you can electrocute yourself"
No joke, I head that one before
But you are the first youtuber who actually knows what hes doing, knows whats safe and what to watch out for, and I have to say thank you.
Actually, 24V can be dangerous, too. It depends on your body's impedance. With dry skin, it has a impedance of 100k-600k Ohm, but with wet skin, it drops down to 1k-500 Ohm. Generally, anything above 10mA can hurt you.
Well it's just not right to say, that 24V could not be painful.
BE CAREFUL WITH 24V. Not as careful as with 110 or even 230V/AC, but still, be careful.
the danger of 24v is not usually contact skin. on most condition it gives you a bad buzz and a lil pain if anything happens. the dangerous lie in melting cables fires and worse. you can make a fire even with 5v. or 3.3v tbh.
also he didn't talk about the failing of SSRs specially the cheap ones he used. he didn't mention grounding your printer either.
1st of all, the danger is not in Volts but in Amps! You can die from a 12 Volt if you will have say 1000 Amps on it!!!
Hello Tom, serious concerns here: SSRs can stay in an on state when they fail( I know, you mentioned it). This can also happen if you run them within their specification. Especially with those fake fotek ebay-china relais.
To make sure to not set your printer/room/house on fire, imo you should think about updating the video and recommend the usage of a thermal resistor which cuts off your mains at eg 180°.
Hi. I'm running mosfets on my printer, and I know that they can also fail closed - which worries me.
You mentioned a thermal resistor - do you mean a thermal fuse? I'm not certain what good a thermistor is going to do, it's not going to shut down the mains unless there's some other device it's controlling.
wait; aren't they supposed to close automatically on power off? or Is it something else I can remember :?
@@_JustBeingCasual Not talking about it disconnecting when power is removed, we're talking about what they do when they break.
When they break, they stay connected permanently, meaning that whatever they control (a heater element for example) can overheat and cause a fire.
This comment 100000x times with big fat font!
read people using PID to control their heat beds
Hello Tom, Thank you for all your videos. When I am in my shop I turn on your videos and have the play over and over while working. Listening to them through you I figure out more on my side. I am writing today because I am trying to upgrade to a 12v silicon heater pad. I have already upgraded the MOSFET from your MOSFET video. When I try to run the heater pad through the ramps 1.4 it will get to 60c then will drop to 36c and maintain. I tried to follow your diagram for the SSR. I used a SSR-40 DA. I hooked up (from the ramps) the positive to (3) on the DC input and negative to (4) DC input. On the AC side (1) to positive to the ac plug and the other AC side to one side the heater pad. The other wire of the heater pad was connected to (2) of the SSR. When all powered on it was ok. When I used the display dial to call for heat the SSR fried. What did I do wrong?
Did you buy the wrong SSR as there No Positive or Negative on the AC only a Sine Wave symbol
You should really consider adding a 130c snap switch to that bed or some other analog cut off...
When working with mains power, you might want to use a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) outlet. If you come in contact with the hot/live side of mains and current flows through your body to an ground path, like your feet or other hand, other than the neutral side hooked to the GIF, it will shut the power off before you are harmed.
*NOTE:* As indicated, if you touch both wires from the GFI, it won't protect you.
Another safety device that is similar to the protection provided by the GFI is the isolation transformer.
I've had very good results with a Fotek SSR-40 DD (DC-DC) relay to run a MK2B heatbed.
I just got tired of the long heating time (when going above 100C), so I got a separate 24VDC PSU (and tweaked it up to 30VDC) just for the bed.
This works really well even with PID and heats up very quickly.
I did make sure to connect to the 24V input on the MK2B.
I also bought a heatsink for the realy in case the PID caused it to heat up, but it barely gets warm to the touch (using marlin with default PWM).
Øystein Krog So, you waited a month to get one, by ordering from China? How did you know is was not going to be a fake and not work?
Richard Turnock I don't think it took a month for me, more like 2 weeks. I bought it because I found several other people who has had success with it and because it was not very expensive.
I also took extra care when using it to ensure it would work as intended.
All in all I think the risk of getting fake stuff is not actually that high.
Thanks Thomas, my Artillery X1 bed relay died, and trying to get a original is difficult, and expensive, so you just saved me,!
hi...my ramps power connector got a little burnt(from 11amp port). I ran the printer for 12 hrs...with the bed temp for 65...could that be the possible reason
Just a hint: those SSR usually fail short-circuited. So any over charge will keep your heated bed on full power all the time. Maybe you should consider install a lamp in parallel just in case.
Tom, thanks for the great videos. I'm new to this, but quickly tired of waiting for the bed to heat up, so I tried switching to a 200 watt 12 volt heater on my i3 RepRap kit. First I fried the MOSFET on the RAMPS board. Having replaced that and finding this video, I bought a 25A DC-DC SSR. As soon as I hooked it up, it started melting, and would not shut off.
Please cover what is required for cooling, as I thought this big, beefy thing would be able to handle the current, and had no idea it would get so hot.
Thanks Tom. This is great information. Can you provide a link to the heater you purchased?
Are you going to share some details about the Cerberus? I building a similar size Im running in to some interesting new sets of problems.
What are your thoughts about a heater at 24"x24" at 120v?
These videos are really great. more are always welcome.
awesome informational vids tom ands its great you reply to the people that need help,and most of us need as much as we can get . keep up the good work.
That's an awesome delta! I'm hoping to start my build soon. I think I'm going to go with the Smoothieboard. Do you have any advice on which extruder to choose?
Good review! I'd already learned most of this myself (Including the small leakage current, which of course reads at full mains voltage to a high-impedance meter! Scared the hell out of me at first!) and wish I'd had your advice back then. Didn't know about the new DC ones.. Yes, the usual ones can only switch AC because they use TRIACs - which can only cease conduction during zero-crossing, which of course DC doesn't do.
Jeremy Lee In fact, the small leakage current can even turn on small pilot/standby lights, (especially neons) which can make the appliance seem to be turned "on", until you do turn a major load on, and then the light goes out! (Which can be freaky.) Basically, it's good to always leave them connected directly to a resistive or inductive load, (no switch!) so the active side can't "float". And remember: even a couple of leaked milliamps will still charge up a diode/capacitor network, given time, to full lethal mains power.
hi
do you know what type of relay for silicone bed 800 watt and 220v
thanks for your reply
Hello Tom! Thanks for all your videos!! Is it possible to use a SSR DC-AC instead of a DC-DC? I'll Explain: I have a 12v silicone heater, but my ramps is not able to run it, so I bought a SSR, but it came wrongly: a DC-AC instead of a DC-DC. I tested it with some LEDS, and it turned the leds on, but they never turn off. I don't know if the SSR has some problems or if this is caused because it is AC. Thanks a lot! Bruno from Brazil
+Thomas Sanladerer - Thanks!!
Thanks for the video !
Please tell about that big delta printer !
Does Tom have any videos on that huge delta?
I think it would have been useful to mention that SSR's can fail in the on state and an inline thermal fuse is a good idea.
Hello Tom! great videos, keep rockin!
i have a question. ok, SSR's wiring for heated bed is quite simple. what about using an SSR to power on/off a led power supply?
where (on RAMPS) can i connect the SSR's input? to PS_ON and Ground? will it work?
Wonderful! I was just considering an SSR, thanks for the info!
if i buy a temp controller and want to avoid the bead connecting to the board at all, then do i need an SSR, ou just the bed heater and the control box? The control box hooks direct to the wall.
Call me crazy i live in the states i ordered a 220v heater i can just smash a hot to a thermal fuse going to the bed and the other hot to an ssr?
Silly question, but I'm assuming the printer would then have two wall plugs? one for the SSR and the normal one for your 12v power supply?
Hey Tom, got a question on this. I hooked my 120VAC silicone heater to the same model SSR that you listed and worked great for a while. I then started having issues with my control board just stopping printing randomly and eventually stopped working altogether. I thought it was just a bad board so I got a new one. Hooked everything up and started printing and then I started having issues where the board would lock up whenever I tried to heat the bed. The temp would start to rise and then would randomly stop and the board would be locked up. Reset fixes until bed is being heated again... eventually that board also stopped working.
I thought maybe there was a problem with the SSR so I got a new one and a new board. Done a 19 hour print without the heated bed with no problems. Decided to print some ABS so I started the heated bed and after a few minutes it did the same thing. Board stops responding. Now when I heat the hotend it says it is to temp (210c) but is not able to melt the PLA so I am afraid that I have fried another board.
I have verified that the polarity is correct on the DC side and the AC side is wired correctly as well. Could the SSR be the problem? I started to entertain the idea that it was the heater but it should not be able to affect the control board through the SSR could it?
Borards used:
Smoothieboard (official)
MKS Sbase
Azteeg X3
18ga wire on DC side
About the same on the AC side (came with heater)
Now I am gun shy on hooking my heated bed back up to any new boards that I get. =(
Hi Tom. I have a custom Prusa i3 using RAMPS 1.4 and a 3MM MK3 Aluminum Board PCB Heat Bed. I have a 40a DC-DC SSR to control my heat bed. When I use my printer by itself and print from SD cards, the bed works flawlessly. As soon as I plug my printer into the USB of my PC to print, the SSR and bed turn on and do not turn off until I unplug the USB. What causes this and how can I fix this?
Tom, great video once again. I am just putting in a request to you to make a full length video of electrical concepts involved in wiring any 3D Printer board, highlighting the dangers/tips/tweaks that involve wire gauge, stepper motor drive, currents and how they correspond to the pins. So that even a beginner can understand how to effectively build the electronics for the 3D Printer board.
Thanks in advance
hello tom in my silicone heated bed i have one red file and one black file and with your dessin i don't understand how wiring for good job , for this moment doesn't work could you help me please thanks in advance
I love that you say "thumbs up or down"
Can i ask why you have those extremely long arms on your delta? You should be able to get away with shorter ones, and still be able to utilize the full build space. You would also get more build height will shorter rods.
*****
Is there an ideal ratio of build diameter to delta rod length?
Why not connect a 12v into main 110v? What would happen?
Do you have to do anything in the firmware to let it know it is powering a relay instead of a DC bed?
Hey Tom! I really like your videos and they have been quite enlightening! You cover everything one should know in order to get into 3d printing! One question here, though; Why are solid state relays only mentioned? Can I not use simple relays with 5 terminals? Thanks in advance!
Hey Thomas, great video indeed! My question is, I bought a 600W silicone heated pad, and it has a resistance of 0.22 ohm. If I connect it using an AC solid state relay with 220V AC, don't you think it will draw a huge current(220*220/0.22 ampere) and trip my mcb?
I= P over V so 600 watts divide by 220 volts = 2.727 amps
If it is 0.22 ohms, it's clearly not made for 220V, but 12V. Calculating the power output at 12 volts w/ 0.22 ohms gives you around 600 watts. Current would be around 50 amps however.
Hi, I got a Meanwell 750-24 PSU, and a 230 V silicon heatbed. Where does live and neutral go in, in the PSU or to the 230 V net power? thanks
I am using pla at the right temperature as the printer sets it.
Hello Tom,
Im now using a silicone heatbed with a relay but im having a problem, the bed keeps heating even when i set a temperatura it goes beyond that, do you have any idea if i have to change something else in the firmware lets say?
I changed PWM to the lowest already but it didnt help.
Ill appreciate your help, thanks!
Hi Thomas!
And thanks for all this informative videos! I wonder if going with a ac powered Silicone pad and SSR what is the best settings regarding the PID or should I use bang-bang mode instead? Someone said that the SSR is not build for switching power on/off so fast the PID settings make.
Ok found the answer in the marlin config video! But you dont mentioned any settings for the hysteresis. Just wonder how to get the best settings there?
I got a question about my MK3 Heated Bed for my prusa i3 (RAMPS Based, 12 480W PSU)
What are expected Headup times for 60 or 100^C? I insulated the bottom side of the Bed, but it still takes about 10-15 min for 60^C and about an Hour for 100^C. Is that normal, or what should i check?
Hi Thomas, Can the SSR be used of transformer differential protection?
A nice video, but you should have said something about always using a residual current circuit breaker / personal protection switch (Fehlerstromschutzschalter/Personenschutzschalter) when using an AC heatbed in a 3d printer.
A residual current circuit breaker measures the current on the phase and the neutral. If there is a difference between the currents, some current is going a wrong way - through the case to ground or through a person to ground. It breaks the current in 20ms or less.
In your house electric, residual current circuit breaker is mostly installed for bathrooms, but not for the other rooms. But there are residual current circuit breaker available as adapter you can plug in your AC socket and plug your 3d printer in the adapter. Also there are plugs with integrated residual current circuit breaker, so if your AC cable is fixed on the printer (no appliance coupler on the printer), use a cable with residual current circuit breaker in the plug. More secure than an adapter because you will never forget to use it...
Thank you so much for that tip.
I have on question though.
if my powersupply is grounded properly and is touching the metal frame, it is protected against any shorts from that powwerline. but if i have to connect an other mains power line for the heated bed, do i have to conect the ground wire from that powerline to the frame or is the one ground from the first powerline enough?
Greetings from a felow german ;-)
The power supply just touching the frame will not mean the frame is propperly grounded. A frame normaly is coated. So for electrical connection you may file the coating off on contacting points; without an Fehlerstromschutzschalter you may also have to connect all parts of the frame (and the heated bed) with 16A/230V sufficient wire.
With a Fehlerstromschutzschalter of course filing the coating at the contacts between frame parts (and maybe a little wire to the heatbed) is a good idea also, but as 20mA is enough to trigger the Fehlerstromschutzschalter its much less work.
With a Fehlerstromschutzschalter of course any contact to main voltage is limited to 20ms, so even without grounding frame and bed any electrical shock should not be lethal (which is the main function of a Fehlerstromschutzschalter).
A healty grown up will normaly not be hurt by an 20ms shock. A Fehlerstromschutzschalter will be enough protektion without further modifications. However, If you have heard insufficience, a peacemaker (Herzschrittmacher) or small children, file all coating at contacting points of the frame and add a little cable from metall heatbed to frame - so any contact between main and metal parts will trigger the Fehlerstromschutzschalter imeditliy.
Im not really sure how you mean by configure in Marlin about PWM... I did auto PID but feels like its wrong. The AC ssr that i use has a light on it and as when the power comes on the light comes on and off...flashing :/
That's what it's supposed to do. The control signal is a pulse (PWM), so it switches the SSD output on and off a few times per second.
SSD-AC works with PID just fine, but it can cause flickering of your room lights (esp., LEDs) because of the frequent turning of the heavy (750W) load On and Off. This was the only reason for me to stop using PID for the bed of my CR-10S printer.
@@mikepek3863 Thx for answer. But i also see other thing while tuning PID. When having as default 1.0 in PWM the light goes on and flashes abit when coming close to it's set temperature. And again goes on to keep the temp ofcause. But if i lower the PWM even with 0.1 the flash starts.
@@mikepek3863 I went over to Duet 2 wifi but yet the same commands but you say you stopped using PID... Do you use bang bang then? Or how
Thanks for all the great videos, they are really professionally done, and I enjoy the "To the point" and accurate information. Please do the Mosfet video! and if possible, a Ramps modification video. I really like the ramps board for the price and would like to know if modding it (ie changing the mosfet etc.) would make it work with larger / other setups. Even though it is a immensely popular board, actual information on how to safely do different mods to it, are scarce and shifty at best.
Hey Tom, me again - have you got a preferred Aliexpress provider for that heater mat? I'm having some difficulty finding one that lists options for custom mats like your other video shows.
Hey tom I really need help. I bought on of the ssr that you mentioned in the video for my delta but I don't know if it will work. I'm using a 210 diameter 12v pcb heated build plate.
What's the mother board you use for the delta 3d printer
+Thomas Sanladerer how did you wire the inductive sensor to the smoothie? having trouble with mine...
How hot does an SSR get and do you think it would need a heat sink?
Bought this one: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009SXHJD6?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Should be fine; but we will see. Just scared it will fail in the on 'position.'
+Thomas Sanladerer, I bought an SSR-25DD, which should have powered my 200w heater (200w/12v = 16 2/3 A), but the SSR melted. Polarities were correct, so what else could I have done wrong?
Hello, very good video is clear, however, the temperature does not stop rising, it never stops, the only way is to disconnect the source once the printing is over, thanks if someone can help me.
You didn't talk about any of the safety stuff tbh. those SSRs can be dangerous and get stuck on and the thermal runaway won't be able to do anything about it. You'd need a heat triggered fuses and some current fuses too. the ssr doesn't have any fuses included
you also better ground every metal part of your printer so if the wires come lose or worse it shorts and shuts off or something and so it doesn't give you a shock. even with dc tho grounding your frame is a good idea to get rid of interference.
Did you use Smoothieboard on that Delta?
***** Thank you, I planned to build a delta soon, I guess I will go for Smoothie :)
Could you make a review of your delta, I see that you use different design where Openbeam stand twisted at 45 degree angle and use V groove delrin wheel, how is it compare to HIWIN guide rail or normal 3 wheels.
whow , this been a while ago!! just needed some SSR info for a VORON Built!! , its clear now!!!
Great video, can one of these be used to control the AC (mains) power to a 12 or 24 volt power supply in marlin like an ATX PSU?
***** would it be possible any other way?
+Moshe Kashani
ATX power supplies have a dedicated on/off pin use that;)
Stephen Beeson I actually just finished the mod using a standard relay, I can't find the guide but it was pretty straight forward.
Awesome video. You're a very good source.
My silicone heater reads 2 ohms on multimeter, can it be used for 230 V AC ? It measures 300mmx300mm and has integrated thermistor .
It's a 12V 300W heater. Is there any way I can improve its heating time? I use a PEI plate 3mm thick and it warps , any solutions ?
I also have a band heater rated at 230V 115W 25A and it also measures 2 ohms on my multimeter !
Hi Tom. One point you missed stressing was that ANY SSR, be it Chinese or German, absolutely needs a heat sink to carry its rated capacity. Without a heat sink, the manufacturers tell you that you must derate the current carrying capacity by a whopping 90%!!! That's what a lot of these Chinese 'bashers' here and elsewhere call them junk when, in fact, they just don't have the capacity to research before opening their mouths. :) THEY NEED A PROPER HEAT SINK that can be bought usually on the same page that they bought the SSR from.
***** Planning to buy a 3d printer. What do you suggest prusa i3 style or delta style like rostock mini. In this vid I see a delta printer. Which one do you prefer most in longer terms.
Thanks.
Hey, sind das 20x20 profile? Welche Ecken hast du dir denn gedruckt? ich suche noch nach passenden 60mm ecken für mein druckerprojekt
what pwm value do recommend setting it at in the firmware.
Hi Thomas, question again, after watch this vid, I start searching for some main-powered heated bed and came across something called "Cast aluminium heaters plate"(google it to see what I mean). It look like a cast aluminium block with tubular heating elements embedded. Many seller claim that it can power up to 3-4 W/sq.cm which sound really good for heated bed and since it's solid aluminium block it should dissipate heat very evenly and look like it's very durable too, the only downside I can think of is you lose a bit of print height(it's 20mm thick) and weight if you use on printer that have moving bed.
Any idea this thing might work or not?
PS. I use it for Delta by the way.
Also an idea for your video, how about "All about safety you should know when build and use 3D printer, especially overnight printing" :)
Hi TOM! i'm building a custom 300x600mm build size printer,and i've already ordered a custom silicon heating pad for it, and i was wondering about the best approach to provide 24v (660W) to the pad, should i just get a bigger MOSFET, and run it off of my MKS smoothie board or go with he SSR or may be get a PID Temperature Controller with it to control it separately?
And BTW Thank you for the awesome videos I've learned quite a bit from you.
+Mazin Omar I am currently working on a same size's project, so if you have update, let me know!
+Ancton Zandor MOSFET is no good. go with either SSR to Printer board, or SSR to digital PID temperature controller. which is most likely what i'm going to go with
+Mazin Omar Semms interesting! Thank you, I'm going to read on that to see the possibilities!
Ancton Zandor You're welcome.
+Mazin Omar If you have good links or infos on how use that efficiently, You can share! I'm good with mechanics, but electrics/electronics... arhhmmm
Is there a way to use PID regulation with this setup?
Or is the P regulation good enough for printer use ? :)
***** Okay which frequency do you use yourself, and once again thank you for quick response :)
Now word about grounding your hotbed? Its your life insurance in case of a shortage and makes shure the fuse blows!
tom love and subscribe so figured Id ask my first question and i try to do my homework so i dont have to but , with ssr and silicone pad do we do pid bed temps or bang bang ..guy on a anet facebook saying I shouldn't use pid it will It will weld the switch and rune it, wondering your thoughts I'm using 110v silicon heater and auber dc to ac ssr mgr-1 d4825 25a when using bang bang it lights up stays on then turns off till drops flux aboiut 5 degrees.. use pid and auto tune and set in firmware and its locked at what ever I set but flickers on and off rapidly each second
Really liking the addition of background music :P idk if you've done it before, perhaps i've just missed it? Either way, it really ties the video together :D
***** i really enjoyed the nice upbeat rythm, it went really well :) i'd certainly like to see it continued!
Hi TomWhen will you do the Mosfet article.. Please :)
Did not know you can buy 220/240v heater bed??
Does anyone know if it is possible to control the PWM frequency of the heated bed in Marlin, and if so, what line of code?
yes its possible ;), but only when not using a relais. idk the precise line, but it was sometimng with smoothing temp regulator.
can you make a review about the kossal 3d printer and the best place to buy one plzz. nice work overall keep it up i like your channel and more are always welcome.
munther al-kiyumi Ultibots has great service and the K250SV is working very well for me.
Excellent info - thanks for a great video that is straight to the point.
I should warn that SSR can and do fail, and when they do, they almost ALWAYS fail shorted. This means that your heater will be in runaway mode and that even if the Marlin (or other firmware) detects this, all it can do is stop the print and display a warning message on the LCD screen. It will attempt to turn off the heater, but that will fail because the relay is shorted! What I would recommend would be to have TWO control outlets for the heater on the ramps (or other control board). The usual one would control the SSR and switch it to control the bed temperature. The second output would control a magnetic relay placed in series with the SSR and would always be energized while the bed heater is on. In the event of a failure the software would then kill the second output.
I've had two SSR's fail on me, and I was lucky that both times it happened while I was monitoring the situation. Since an AC powered bed heater might not be switched along with the printer power (bad idea, provide a means of killing power to the heater when the printer is off, don't rely on the SSR for that!), you could have a real melt down if you left and thought the printer was off! In retrospect I might have had the failures because my AC heater is operated at about 1/3 the mains voltage via a 120 to 48 volt step down transformer, and the SSR switches the primary of the transformer. I usually don't think of a transformer as an inductive load (motors are), but maybe the SSR could not handle that, even though it was VERY much over rated for the task (25A SSR switching less than 3 amps). I should try switching the secondary of the transformer, I think the SSR will work at 24vac and up. BTW I was using "bang bang" regulation, you can't PWM AC though a transformer, at least not unless you manage to synchronize the switching at zero crossings.
Kenneth Scharf hi, what kind of magnetic relais you‘re using?
It's what I was thinking plus If by misfortune your were touching the live wire of the AC primary and the GFCI/RCCB safety device would not work properly you could smoke your soul!
I was looking for a AC/DC 48V setp down sPSU that is totally insulated from earth to go along with a DC/DC SSR so no problems if your body got in contact with one of the two wires. I might consider adding a fuse in series in addition to the magnetic relay. 48V with 4amps would give enough jus to heat a silicon bed and reducing by four the current so the risks of starting fire at the connecting points...
Transformers are pretty much *the* inductive load in a home setting. Old fashioned low voltage halogen lights behind a traditional transformer is why dimmers capable of inductive loads were even sold, back a decade or two ago.
Will one of these work on a cr10??
Could you please do a guide on cleaning filament?
please can anyone tell me why the filament keeps getting stuck in my 3D printer hotend. I have cleaned it out.
+Jessica Ryan I'd be happy to help, but we need more info as to when your nozzle clogs, what filament you're using, the temps...basically anything you can say.
It does the test extrusion ok. I have done the test configuration the filament at the right speed. It clogs up when I am trying to do a print even though I have done the correct configuration for the filament speed. I have cleaned the nozzle each time to make sure it doesn't happen. Thank you for offering to help Justin.
How soon does your nozzle clog after pressing print? Also, could you please say your temp and plastic type? For example, if your using PLA, you should be around 190-200C and ABS should be 220-230C or so.
Does it clog on the first layer? I find that most clogs I encountered where caused by an incorrect temps, or my extruding pushing out too much plastic(which causes a jam because the plastic has no place to go). I would suggest you check the steps/mm for your extruder setup, then make sure your layer height is around 60-80% the diameter of your printer's nozzle. And finally, make sure your printer nozzle isn't too close to the bed during the first layer's print.
+Jessica Ryan Also, one more note...You'll want to ask 3d printing related questions, you don't really want to ask on youtube channels for help. Tom's guides are outstanding and a great way to get pointed in the right direction, but there's a lot to this. I would suggest becoming a member of forums.reprap.com Ask your questions there and I promise you'll find answers, or at least be pointed in an appropriate direction to find them.
"Summons magical unicorns and other stuff like that." 3:43
Hahaha, I died! xD
Exactly what I was looking for!
The music at the beginning of this video drowns out what you are saying. You might want to consider lowering the volume somehow or removing it all together?
fantastic content!
Can anyone recommend a rather inexpensive Prusa i3 Kit?
Where did you get the 230V AC heater mats (I specifically look for 300x300 or 350x300) around 600-1000W would be perfect, or what would you recommend ?
2 Thumbs Up !! You are a RUclips GOD,,,,,,,,,, dude. The Hardware King...
Seriously,, you're top dog,,, hands-down. Of course keep making vids,, plzzzzzzz.
Do you have an "Amazon-Link",, that I can bookmark,, and shop through ???
I'll snoop around and see if I missed it.
Damn I just bought a 3D Printer through eBay and found your Affiliate Link today
it clogs right from the start. this is what I do not understand I can do that hundred Mill extrusion test ok.
idea: Gas powered heated bed litteraly put a fire under a metal sheet to heat it up. 10/10 very safe and smart
Thank you TOM !!!
I just upgrade my 3d pritner by SSR , silicone heater and aluminium print bad and its just perfect ...
Europe is actually 220v. Only the UK is not 220v, the UK is 240v. Anything that claims to be "230v" is simply designed to run on either Euro 220v or UK 240v. Its basically marketing - there is no "230v" grid anywhere in Europe.
High voltage is 1000V and more. It will be bit hot heat bed :)
Collectively, the amount of power we're using printing plastic could power a third world country... please pass the filament!
Teardown of an eBay Fotek 25A Solid State Relay
ruclips.net/video/DxEhxjvifyY/видео.html
1:22 this is obvious, dont waste our time saying it.
1 solitary dislike. way to break the mold, whoever you are
***** Great Video. I followed links to eBay however there are so many different sellers and i have been warned about fraudulent Fotek SSR sellers - and these are all from China - plus the deliver time is about a month.I found an AC-DC SSR local that they got from Sparkfun.
However, they don't have the DC-DC SSR that I want.
I have a 24v power supply that powers my 3D printer, with Taurino Power PCB but using existing Ramps 1.4, did not buy the upgraded Ramps for 24v, maybe I will have to do that instead of using SSR.
Using SSR with Main voltage (120V here in US) is not safe with exposed connections like the SSR has.
I will go buy the upgraded Ramps with the better Diodes for F2 and F1 to use with 24v.
Richard Turnock you could use a good old dumb and dirt cheap relay. Even though it is less sexy it really does the job well (check my comment above). Just switch the firmware to bang-bang.
Jeremie Francois "...a good old dumb and dirt cheap relay"Yes, but I am learning daily about electricity and Java so on a steep learning curve.
Which one? Which dumb, cheap relay? You mean like an automobile relay? which one?
Richard Turnock the easiest is to buy an existing relay module made for arduino boards in the first place. Most sub-$2 "relay module optocoupler" on ebay will be fine. Almost all of them would be suitable, unless you have a HUGE hotbed.
Just check the voltage & power for your bed. E.g. at $1.50 the one below is more than enough. Ohm's law says P=UI : power(W) = voltage(V) x intensity(I), so this small relay already handles 300 watts of power in DC mode, way more than what you could get out of a usual 3D printer power supply. To be safer even, consider only the 10 amps it may drive: with 12V at 10A you can drive a 120 watt hot bed, and with a good margin.
E.g.: www.ebay.com/itm/1-Channel-H-L-Level-Triger-Optocoupler-Relay-Module-for-Arduino-5V-New-/251338554396?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3a84f1fc1c
Using an automotive relay is both more expensive and more cumbersome as you would have to add some components to drive the relay coil (the trigger). The output of a microcontroller is certainly not powerful enough on its own to drive a bare relay (you would burn them). You get tons of doc on the web with relay + arduino.
This is also why I recommend the few more cents that an optocoupler adds to the bill, because it fully isolates your board (though this is not compulsory). Check the fake one! An optocoupler-enabled relay board is visible (the small blocky black or white 4-pin component on the board). The other kind of relay board are driven by regular transistors.
Hi, my friend, good night, I'm Brazilian. I liked your videos. I'm needing help to set up the 3d printer's warm bed here in my country. No one insinates correctly. More Americans are very good at everything. Can you help me? Could you make a little video of how to do it. a heated bed of 1 square meter how to make the beds connection the correct wiring step by step well explained only seeing you do I do here do not understand very well your language I am translating in the translator translator if you want to help me I will touch the sini ok And give a gift, have a good night and everything
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RESPONDER
Eu entendi certo? Você vai usar uma mesa aquecida de 1m quadrado?
Fotek relays suck.
Could you use a SSR for the PCB style heater? I know most require DC but I am wondering if you could get a faster heating time by using AC voltage instead.