Silence Your Creaking Press Fit Bottom Bracket
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- Опубликовано: 26 июл 2024
- This video will show you how to (hopefully) resolve a creaking press fit bottom bracket by tapping out the bearings, cleaning and pressing back in.
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From my experience, and I've silenced hundreds of noisy bb30, press fit 30 and in your case, the DUB press fit BB, the noise is rarely from the cup to frame interface. I've found the noise is generally the aluminum spindle "walking" slightly within the ID of the bearings themselves. You can save yourself a step by just removing the crank, check the bearings for wear or damage and replace if needed, clean the spindle and bearing ID, put a film of grease on the spindle and bearings, and reassemble. Don't believe me? Just look at the witness marks on the spindle after you remove the crank. There's always a polished or worn area from where the spindle has a little movement within the bearings. Introduce some moisture and dirt into the mix and you get noise from said movement.
If you want a more permanent fix, I would suggest something like a press fit 30 to GXP conversion BB from someone like Wheels MFG.
when you say "cup" do you mean bearing race?
That makes so much sense. I see so much hate on press-fit BBs but no one exactly explains what's going on(assuming it's a worn bearing). I've seen smaller bearings used on cars.
you just saved me from a whole lot of trouble thank you so much! i only removed the crank cleaned with alcohol and greased everything (it was a dry and sticky mess in there) i went for a quick ride and no creaking! so happy
Hi Clint, great video gave me the confidence to get this job done 🤙🏻 I had the bb creak start a few weeks back. First bike with press fit. What was holding me back was the previous information I got that once you tap out the BB it’s shot but once I see you doing it on a dub bb I was out in the garden. Job done... many thanks
I used a praxis adaptor on my pf30 after having it looked at and regreased by my lbs twice in a year. it’s been in 4 years and hasn’t creaked once since. Brilliant invention that expands as you tighten it into the bb so it is completely locked into place.
I just had to take my bike in for this. I will do it myself next time. Thanks for the great vid!
Great clear video and good technique. Keep em coming!
Hey Clint I really enjoy your videos, they are very helpful so thanks for sharing! Cheers
As always, thanks Clint
Great step by step instructions!!
Nicely explained! Thank you
Thanks for making this video!
Great vid. Wheels manufacturing sells a home mechanic bb press that works great and is way easier on the wallet than Park Tool.
Awesome video thanks👍
This is a good video. Frequently ridden bikes require frequent maintenance. Annual teardown, inspection, and regrease of virtually everything is wise..
I used some Finishline grease on my BB and front and rear axles but it went dry on the threads, and BB was creaky (threaded BB) my LBS told me to use good quality Anti seizes paste so I have them a service like this and seems better now, i did keep the Anti seize on the threads and grease back was keeled to the area that move
Yesterday I changed the Bottom Bracket on my 2015 Giant Trance for the first time, because it was creaking so bad.
And I can tell, this was no fun at all to change. I had to force this sh*t bottom bracket out, like a freakin bulldozer.
But now I have a silent bike again, was worth it :D
can you make a video how to service the linkage for trance. thanks
great video, just an fyi but if you are replacing your press fit BB or just want something better for your press fit build take a look at the thread together models from Wheels Manufacturing. swapped mine all out one by one on 3 bikes when they started making noise and so far have yet to have one start creak with the new BBs.
Using a $200 bottom bracket press tool and no drifts. Elite hack job.
I am pleased to say my Lynskey CX has a threaded BB. It has given me no problems at all.
Anyone know if this is the same bb set up on the SE Draft?
Actually, it might be counter intuitive, but grease is no the best thing to use for this task, it does dampen the sound, but doesn't cure the cause which is the bearing moving in the recess, best results come from actually gluing the bearings in with a low/ mid strenght threadlocker, so that you can still remove them but the don't move on their own. As for greasing the bearings itself, marine grease us the best stuff you could use, aspecially if you ride in the wet- it's very thick so it's not the best for hub bearings (friction) but the cranks don't spin fast enough for it to matter.
Hi Clint
That's the best video on how to service or change your bottom bracket I've seen made it look straightforward.. how would you do it on a carbon frame ?
What I mean is would you have a different approach to carbon??
This is a carbon frame.
Great videos. Any chance you plan to do a video on Removing installing rear sock on Trance?
That's a pretty straight forward process in itself
Hey Clint,
Great vid, very informative and useful. Thanks. Can you pass along the brand and model # of the bearing press? Thanks in advance.
Park Tool HHP-2 IIRC. Probably the best bearing press, but will use up half the space in your toolshed or so. And it costs a bit of money. I opted for the slightly smaller BBP-1.2. The handles are a bit shorter so I need to use a bit more force, but it works pretty well anyway. The only real drawback is that I can't use it to press headset bearings, but then none of my headsets have pressfit bearings.
Hi Clint, great vid and very informative as expected coming from you. Are those cranks boost ones? What are your thoughts on fitting non boost cranks on a boost frame and how much of an effect it has on the chain line? Thanks.
Those are made by race face. Cranks aren't really made for boost or non boost. You adjust the number of spacers based on the bottom bracket width. SRAM cranks will come with an instruction manual that shows what spacers to use on what bottom bracket width.
@@ClintGibbs thank you, Clint. Appreciate the advice.
It may not be the bottom bracket. After months and months, more like a year or so, I tracked down a creak to the spider - crank arm interface. On my mountain bike with a 2x10 drive train. A pain in the ass to remove, needing special tools. Upon inspection there was some play and plenty of grit on parts that appeared very tight on initial inspection.
I live in Utah, so the conditions are dry (though dusty). I have had 4 bikes with PF BB's and have never replaced one due to creaking. I have had to replace them due to the bearings going bad, though.
It's because it's not the bb that is the cause for creeking, it's the frame bb tolerances that are off.
@@piciu256 I have never experienced creaking from the bottom bracket, frame/bb interface or frame due to a flaw in the tolerances between the BB and the frame, or for ANY other reason. It has just never happened to me. That doesn't mean that pressfits can't make noise. It has just never happened to me. I have had creaking from threaded BB's but that is very easy to remedy.
@@kayakutah I didn't say you did, just saying you might have gotten lucky with your frame choice ;)
@@piciu256 Entirely possible. I wasn't sure if you had misunderstood my post, but you understood it. I just wanted to elaborate.
loctite 641. no creak and easy to disassemble. never put grease, it will creak soon or late. better mount it dry instead.
Exactly
My creaking problems starts after riding uphill for aprox 15 minutes. I have SRAM DUB PF BB 92 and carbon frame - shell. Do I need to use praimer befire 641?
Why is PF still being used? I have a threaded BSA. Had it for 15 years. Never made a noise. Recently upgraded to SRAM DUB BSA.
Did you clean and re grease the bearing .
Thanks for all the great videos
I meant the bearings not the bottom bracket. Are they sealed bearings. I did watch the whole video. But I will not be watching anymore of your videos
@@walterkasper467 You will to watch more of my video they are Awesome.
@@walterkasper467 Why wouldn't you watch anymore of his videos???
Press fit bottom brackets are one of the worst changes that the bicycle industry has done to a bicycle! The only way I could stop the creaking on my Giant Defy was to install a Chris King bottom bracket. I have since replaced the bike with a Specialized Roubaix, which now comes with a threaded bottom bracket. Specialized has gone back to threaded BB’s on some of its models. Maybe they got tired of the complaints!
Adapter cups change pf30 to standard bearing cups
Great vid thanks! Thinking of getting a new Canyon MTB, and it has a press fit bottom bracket... and I have only ever owned MTB's with hollowtech. So I'm a bit worried about the whole press fit thing as I often hear that people are having these creaking problems with press fit. Should I just go for it anyways, what do you think? Thanks again
Yes, definitely don't let it all you back. I honestly don't mind pf bottom brackets.
Thanks, Clint
Dont waste your money. Buy only properly designed, quality products!!
Read the ‘Machinery Handbook’ regarding the proper fit and installation of press fit bearings. Bearings are precision instruments. Using the proper bearing design for a given application is what makes a beating last a long time and do their job. Using a bearing outside its designed environment shortens life and causes poor performance.
Press fit BBs only offer solutions to companies seeking a profit, Nothing else! There is nothing wrong with outboard bearings.!!They last. I sell 5 times as many PF bearings as I do outboard. What does that tell you? There was nothing wrong with square taper. Ive have tapered cartridges and the old loose ball varieties still in good working condition. Dont listen to marketing BS. SEEK your own information, either educating yourself or from an engineer, bike mechanic or machinist. I have been a machinist 30 years and a bike tinkerer 50 years. Now I wrench in a shop for fun! Most mechanics HATE this junk. I really despise it! There is no excuse for poor design in bikes costing as much as they do. Many ‘engineers and designers’ should ne ashamed of the garbage they produce.
Pressfit bearings REQUIRE installation tolerances in the tenths of thousandths of an inch. You cant mold that! There is very little to no actual QC in the bike industry. QC is what insured my quality work for 30 years in Aerospace, Medical and defense industries I worked in. Im not the 1st to talk about these things. Its common mechanical sense.
Threaded BBs dont have these issues. Tolerances are ensured by the use of BB taps and facing tools. Any good shop has these tools. Theyre simple to use and affordable unlike machine tools, inspectors and a QC program!
I also worked in a shop manufacturing carbon satellite components.You think youre getting quality carbon bikes, think again. Virtually NO QC. AGAIN, Im not the 1st to make these claims. There are engineers who analyze and cut up carbon frames. You cant know what quality is without cutting up a frame and looking at lay ups. No QC means no inspection.
WHO DO YOU TRUST YOUR LIFE TO???
RollinRat Making perfect sense and totally agree. It’s been a rip off for too long considering the cost of a bike and needs to change.
Is this an alloy or carbon bb shell?
carbon
Where did you find those crank boots? Can't find 'em for my truvativ 7k eagle
www.worldwidecyclery.com/blogs/worldwide-cyclery-blog/crank-boots-what-are-they-good-for
Have you tried the parktool bottom bracket. 2 part retaining compound?
MY THOUGHTS AS WELL
Check your chain ring bolts. They can cause a creaking sound if the're lose or dry & dirty that sounds like it's coming from the bottom bracket. It's also a good idea to put a touch of grease around each end of the BB sleeve. This helps keep moisture out of the bearings.
But I have a threaded BB and creaks bad. I replaced the BB and it still creaks. Is it possible the threaded inserts in the carbon frame move?
Did you put some grease on the threads before installing? Also check your chain ring bolts. Another tip is to remove the cassette and put some WD-40 on the free hub body. Sounds weird but that can creek too.
Why don't you fit a (HOPE PF41 24mm) or HOPE PF46 30mm) bottom bracket...you will never have any trouble again. I've used a 24mm on my carbon mountain bike...never had a problem since fitting it.
How much do you weigh if you don’t mind me asking? Just curious since you do well racing. Maybe a video on what it really takes to race competitively?
I weigh about 148 pounds. I used to do a lot of cross country mountain bike racing but I've switched over to cyclocoss for the past few years.
Factory manual calls for DRY installation. If you follow OEM instructions you won't have any creaks. I've been riding bikes I've built this way and never had an issue with PF BB.
I've tried dry installation before. Starts creaking pretty soon. May depend on the bike though, but I had this issue with several different manufacturers
Clint Gibbs Fair enough. Both frames I’ve done were carbon, that may make a difference.
I installed PFSram DUB using grease but after 2 month BB started creacking....i suspect that grease ins't best thing because it makes slippery contact between frame and cups. Now i think I'll try carbon paste and if isn't enought then Loctite. Last chance a BB from BBinfinite or WheelsMfg
I have a trek madone bb90, the bearings go directly to the carbon shell, i always use locktite and it always end up creaking. Carbon grease might be a good idea.
@@weler2491 thanks for your experience. Witch Loctite do you apply? Do you nave problem removing cupa? My only doubt abiut using Loctite Is that ihave plastic cups (SRAM BB)...in my other by i have aluminium cups and used Loctite without problem.
Missed the preload ring on the non-drive side of the crank
It's fixed. So for basic removal and reinstall you don't need to mess with it.
I have a Canyon Lux FS SL 8.0 (2018 carbon) with press fit bottom bracket. I have followed step by step to do the service right using primer and loctite 680. After the service and 24h to make sure the loctite was cured I hit the trails and the horrible loud creaking is still there!!! This bike is driving me crazy! An expensive top bike with this annoying creak!!! I really don't know what to do. Any suggestions??
It may be the BB bearings. You may just want to replace them.
@@ClintGibbs Hey...I solved the problem replacing the BB and checking the pivots. I chose the token ninja BB which is high quality compared to the sram gxp. Also the pivot washers on both sides of the frame were worn out. On the right was carbon with carbon causing creaking. We have replaced the washers, now is perfect again. About the BB I recommend token, high quality!!! Thanks !!!
Step 1: Remove all the components except for the crankset and bottom bracket.
Step 2: Throw the frame with the crankset and bottom bracket still installed in the trash.
Step 3: Realize that you where ripped off...suck it up, and go buy a bike with a threaded bottom bracket
People who think press fit BBs are great should try putting press fit bolts on anything else that uses a thread bolt. Here are some recommendations to try:
SPD cleats
Look style cleats
Bicycle pedals
Oil plug on a car / truck / go cart / lawn mower
Spark plugs on any combustible engine
Lug nuts on car wheels
Sprocket guard on a chainsaw
Wood chipper blades
Support beams for a wooden deck
Toilet seat
Toilet flush lever
Septic tank riser cover
I just did this with my Trance 2. Super creaky then follow your video and no creaks. I couldn't find my grease, so I used Fox Float Fluid.
I don't understand why you did not grease the ball bearings? Are they sealed?
If they're not sealed it seems to me one ought to use a solvent to remove the old grease & grit and then repack the bearing with grease, instead of greasing the outside.
They are sealed. Those type of bearings are not expensive. If they were out you just replace them.
For this reason I only ride bikes with English threaded bottom Bracket.
also called BSA, yes like the MC brand,a ll of the bikes I am interested in trying have this,so my next bike definitely will have it which ever bike I select.
if it's made accurately it won't be an issue, same with press fit, if there is bad tolerances , like being out of alignment, also includes threaded if they are threaded skewed or bigger hole or threads on one side, but with high quality bikes it won't happen, but can happen on many mass produced bikes, even carbon bikes, so Hambini had to make his own BB to to fit just hit bike, but he is an engineer and can make stuff.
Why dont you use a retaining compound like park tool RC-I instead of grease on the BB?
joachim bråten loctite 609 was what did the trick for my open and their bb386evo and my wheels manufacturing Bb
Epoxy resin and adapter cups changes all this to a normal bb
609 is usually my go-to for pressfit or general cylindrical bearing applications. It has a good hold and it not permanent @@angrybeesound772
Personally I wouldn't take out the bearings just to check, clean and reinstall. Risks damaging them and the frame, and usually cleaning and regreasing without taking them out sorts things in my experience. Can potentially pop off the outer bearing seal while it's in the bike and regrease inside if a bit gritty.
If the interface between the bearings and the bottom bracket shell are the issue, you have to tap them out
@@ClintGibbs Yeah guess I'm lucky that's not been the problem on my CX with BB30. I think I've had issues with poor quality outer seals and fretting between the inner races and axle. New SRAM bearings and seal kit have been fine for 1000 miles, but would consider using some retaining compound if the creaking came back.
My bike calls for 3M DP420, or equivalent, on the cups(sleeve) and inner BB shell, and not grease? This probably varies by mfg. Good vid Clint. Nice 4K.
You can use basically any grease
If a manufacturer says use epoxy, are you saying you can instead use grease? It seems it serves an opposite function. @@David54534
Do you have an aluminum or carbon BB shell? The issue with epoxy/glues or retaining compounds is that they can damage carbon shells. But if you have an aluminum shell, retaining compound is just fine.
Hey thanks, it's a carbon frame that uses a SRAM PF30. I researched further, indeed, 3M DP420 is used at the factory. The thin layer of epoxy does adhere to the carbon but not the SRAM's Delrin(nylon) cups. When the epoxy hardens, it fills in any potential voids/gaps in the BB. Though, I wouldn't advise it with aluminum cups and I would definitely check with the mfg. @@cup_and_cone
why does bike manufactures use this flawed design ?
Umut Birey is cheap
Claw hammer lol
Press fit bearings are cheap, but that only applies if you didn't get Kogel or coated Ceramicspeed bearings.
And if you do, you have bigger problems than the creaking, as in your brain ;)
Are you kidding me? Once a year?
I had my Trek 9900 (Carbonframe, XTR, NO Pressfit...) Since 2001. Never touched my bottom bracket... And (I know this sounds crazy) Never even changed my chain! Tru story!
My XTR chain, bottom bracket, and everything else has been on my bike since 2001!
Maybe I haven't ridden millions of miles, but when I ride, I ride hard! And I have cycled in the winter, with snow as well!
Now... I don't know what my bottom bracket is called...
But Pressfit... That Sucks!!!
It's probably want to get a chain checker. I have to swap out my chain about every six to eight months, sometimes sooner. At this point when you change your chain you'll need a whole new drivetrain.
@@ClintGibbs Yeah, I know it's really time to change my chain, and drivetrain at the same time. I'm just really surprised that it lasted for so long time. Here's another strange thing: I bought one of those chain checkers from Park tool. It measures like the chain is still like new!!! Something weird is going on here... I would like to think, the chain would brake before it streches a whole link... Right? :-O
WildCatKuro Typically the chain would’ve broken by then. That’s not fun. It usually involves knee meeting stem forcefully
Must of been using Squirt Lube on that chain.:)
You forgot about preload adjuster
I never understood why on earth they started this press fit mounting. It is inferior to threaded and it can’t be that expensive to make the thread? Any way, this option from Wheels is the way to go in my opinion. It is initially a bit expensive, but the creaking stops and it is much easier to do maintenance in the future: wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb86-92/bb86-92-outboard-angular-contact-bb-for-24mm-shimano-cranks-black.html
This is exactly why I WILL NOT buy another bike that has a press fit bottom bracket. You, or I, or whoever, spend thousands on a fairly high end carbon bike, and after a few months or a year the danged BB is squeaking.
Note: I am not naming the brand of carbon fiber bike I bought 2 years ago because I don't want feedback from the manufacturer or anyone else!
Also the various media are full of folks complaining about press fit BBs and solutions for fixing squeaking press fit BBs.
I have a 1992 Trek 5200, that I have owned for 28 years. Threaded BB! Has never squeaked. Easy to maintain with inexpensive tools.
OK, press fit BBs may be lighter. But how much difference does a few grams make?
The big winners when it comes to press fit BBs are the bike manufacturers. They save money because they don't have beef up the BB shell and/or cut threads into frames.
This was exactly my problem after using press fit BB. Just a month afterwards I have to have it serviced & then finally replaced. With the old type BB, no problem until after 7000 km.
Make sure to check your chain ring bolts. They can cause a creaking sound that will make you think it's the BB area if they're a bit lose or the area around them is dry or dirty.
@@atticushexcel9567 ".........good luck finding a non-press fit BB anymore on road bikes". You're joking right? If not, you haven't spent much or any time looking for road bikes with threaded BBs. Also, I read an article, a while back, that basically said it rumored that Trek may be going back to thread BBs. Actually I have seen more than one article that implied Trek may be going back to threaded BBs.
Look at the BBs that custom bike builders are using. Or look at off-the-shelf chromoly or titanium bikes!
First
You forgot to add in the part about the barring tension ring and the 2mm set screw for that DUB system.
If you're just uninstalling and reinstalling typically that is already set. But yes, for a new install it's important. Thanks.
Avoid press fit frames
That bb is the only thing other than price that I don't like about this bike.
Looks like way too much trouble. 3 piece, Mega Exo & Hollowtech already require too many tools. Great video, but no thanks I'm trying to cut back lol.
So not only Race Face cranks, but Sram too can be taken off with just an allen wrench. So Shimano's probably the only company requiring some stupid proprietary tool.
Rumor has it the new Shimano stuff coming out will be a single bolt design like a SRAM.
You can open the preload thing with a screwdriver.
More reason why press-fit frames are a non starter for me......
Wakos
The cost of a Mechanic to do this is $35 at the time of this video. I just took my bike in for this same issue, the cost is well worth it if you don't have the tools or time. But I'm sure if I had the tools I would do a more detailed job as shop mechanics are on pressure to move fast.
I just remove the cranks and the chain ,lower the saddle so my feet can touch the ground and use my feet to run the bike along.
Problem solved.
Humongous and expensive tool...ridiculous. am lucky that i have threaded bb on my bike.
You aren't lucky, just smart to purchase one without a pressfit BB.
@@dalelakusta8143 I was considering purchasing bike with pressfit bb but when i saw all the hassle,tools required, comments , it just wasn't for me. Love simplicity of the threaded one.
@Yard Sale Dale Good tip. Sure, better safe than sorry.
Best way to silence a squeaky press fit bottom bracket. Don't buy a bike with a f-ing press fit bottom bracket. Dumb idea that needs to go away. Far away
Is that an aluminum or cf frame?
Carbon
You forgot about preload adjuster