I've bought old falcon sixes for $500 before. Let's do the maths. It normally costs say $100 per oil change (I do them myself) every 5000kms. So over 50000kms, that's $1000. If one $500 intech last 50000kms on one oil change, that's a lot cheaper.
In the olden dayz. Some of us used a Timing Light and manually adjusted a device called the distributor. After the points, singular, or dual if it was a hot rod, were correctly set. For extra punishment, some workshops even had a spark plug cleaning machine.
John well sed im retired x mechanic and did a lot of forced induction over the years all engines have advanced over the years . what you sed was perfect to me Its a shame the average person will not understand most of that. In my time i have seen some vehicles do 500000 thousand ks and some others with 800000 all because of oil changer on time and not abusing the engine in general Thumb up bud keep up the good work
Toyotas are the most dull boring cars & I don't personally like them. My nephew had a 90's camry (>250K miles). He only did the brakes the first time a few years ago, changed out plugs wire & belts the first time at the same time. The parts he pulled off it were factory parts. Absolutely solid car. No rust, decent paint, good interior, everything still worked. I was impressed.
These stories are like the the ones smokers tell non-smokers about how they have this uncle tom who smoked 10 packs a day his entire life and lived to 100. If all it took was changing your oil regular to keep that combustion engine in good working order there would alot more old cars on the road.
Gave the A+ Metro motor in my Mini an overbore and rebuild 20 odd years ago, not because it really needed it but because it was coming apart for other work. Car has gone near 200k since, oil and filter get changed at a minimum yearly, compression still spot on... rock solid. However, A panels and sills, well, better have some welding and grinding skills...
In my 53 year driving career, I have broken a rod, burnt pistons down past the second ring (twice), seized a big end, burnt a hole through the crown of a piston . These all happened at full throttle and maximum effort.
Mine was difs and greaboxes the I broke. Ah the good old days. Worked heads, balanced and blue printed block, lumpy cam and a set of weber carbies. Nothing like you get now
@Low760 ah yeah nah, that's a modern myth. Not too many things are getting past a blown bigblock and with a couple of DP holley carbs up top (that's an old school fuel system not something you eat) will cost somewhere between a 1/20th to 1/10th of modifying a modern engine.
JC, I purchased my first car back in 1993. A Ford XC ute which I still have today. It now has an EFI 6 cyl and I love the old rig. There are two spare engines tucked under the bench ready for a rapid return to service. Happy listening to my MP3 player hacked into the "stereo" as I am terrified of buying a new blue oval shitbox and being bombarded with advertising or worse being managed onto the wrong side of the road by an in car psychopath that knows better than I. You are not convincing me that new cars are "better". Please keep up the good work.
I have a au falcon ute and have no interest in a new car I don't care about anything new it is all shit food movies cloths everything going to shit bye world don't want you
Years ago, I was waiting for a phone call to start a new job. It came suddenly one afternoon. I started the next day as a mechanic with a hire boat company. A private boat had stopped the day before with a minor engine problem. The company boss had gone to take a look, had started the engine, a 4 cylinder diesel, had revved it up and 5 seconds later the oil pressure dropped to zero. I went on board and started the engine which ran smoothly but with still no oil pressure. I looked around the engine and discovered cracks on the right side of the block. When I took off the rocker cover, the rear two sets of tappets were completely loose. After taking the engine to bits, I discovered the camshaft had broken into 3 parts and a conrod had broken and shattered the block. All due to revving up a cold engine. Ended up fitting a new engine in the boat.
I've had a Honda four stroke 'whipper snipper' for sixteen years. In summer, I use it every week for two-thirds of the year. I've replaced the oil once. I replaced that 'bump thing' to extend the cord once. I do, however, clean it down for inspection standard after use and carry it very carefully to the shed before placing it in its resting place and wishing it a good night. I'm seventy four now, so I'd like to be able to leave my estate to my Honda 'Whipper snipper' as opposed to my ungrateful five children. I've spent more time with it. I
@YZJB I started that thing a week ago with a first start pull with no sign of problem after sixteen years I've been using these things for fifty years. Oil will last much longer than my old joints. You keep on doing what you feel is necessary, old chap. I'll do what I do.
@@Parawingdelta2 the only way you will find out that you are delusional is if someone else tells you so much...just saying. When we get to the end of our rope or that of our particular engine's it is too late to save it.
Well explained John. As a keep ‘em till they die guy my tips are; pick a vehicle with a long production run drive train, preferably with an enthusiast community. Bonus points if you can go post CAD but pre Finite Element Analysis. Change your oil at least every 10000 km, half that if it’s all short trips. Go up a grade in oil viscosity, i.e instead of 5w30 go 10w40.
I guess I watch your videos because I like to hear rational thought on a regular basis. I'm a retired mechanic, started in the mid-sixties, things are "a lot more advanced these days" but the same basic principles still apply. I've got two hundred thousand miles on an 05 F-350, it'll probably get five hundred K before she's retired. I hope I never buy another car or truck, probably a pretty good chance. Always a pleasure!
John your detailed little explanation there on the operation cycles of a reciprocating engine of a car is one of the best cases I've heard for the promotion of a Rotary engine, (Mazda RX7, RX8, etc), though I fully understand the particular issues that they come with, they still seem a more logical prospect.
I think the era of car you would need to buy to have it last a lifetime is a long way in the past. The nearest I have is a Massey Ferguson 35x tractor of 1963 vintage that does a good days work and has decayed far less in the last 25 years than I have so I am fairly confident it will comfortably see me out. Spares, including full engine rebuild kits, injectors DPA pumps, tinwork, etc are all still available which is remarkable.
Can't agree. Late 80s and 90s car have ECUs that prove to be reliable and less hassle then carby shite, the body panels are rust treated well and overall they aren't that much different to a new car.
@@Low760 Well, there are plenty of 70 year old cars with carbs that are still running. It remains to be seen whether ECUs last that long. Spare 90s ECUs still available in 2060? Only time will tell.
Just love the detail John, i just imagine flowery journalism schittin itself worrying what they wrote to impress, i got lost at the first mention of octane rating, nah but wasn’t long after.
I hope I can last a fair bit longer. I just recently remarried for life this time. Only number 3. Hoping to keep my 2015 A6 Biturbo Diesel, a fair bit longer too, John. Hopefully to avoid BEV, HEV and PHEV,and any other form of new age propulsion, all of which the idea of, shit me to tears.
There is an effect that used to be called acceptable quality. The idea is you only produce a quality that people will accept whether it be manufacturing service industry and even journalism the problem being is as the acceptable quality becomes the norm people will then start to accept a slightly lower quality and it ends up in a downward spiral of quality until you get to where we are now. Hopefully we are at or near the dregs of the barrel and people will start demanding better quality but the climb back up will be slower than the slide down
I've built my own computers since the 90's. I could never afford the prices computer shops charged so I got the components myself and squeezed the most out of them for as long as I could. Recently I quit smoking and had some car trouble so I thought I'd have a go at it to keep me busy. Quick self research found out I'll fucking die if use the supplied jack. Back to research and figured I could spend $300 on not dying and another $100 on making things easier, but it's capital expenditure so should be wife safe. Since then I've fixed a vacuum leak, changed various hoses, ignition coils and cables, sparks (and learned how to check gap), break pads, speed sensor (that was a c) and am about to do the cooling system. I'll try and make it my forever car just so I don't have to buy a new spyware on wheels. I still enjoy paying my Amiga 500 on weekends.
Your comments about knock are pretty good really. Maximum cylinder pressure doesn't happen at TDC, it's more like 14-18 ATDC, I figured it would be 90 ATDC because of the lever arm, but that would mean that the piston would need to be directly above the crank throw. But the crank/rod angle wouldn't be right for maximum torque since the rod will be at it's maximum angle instead of straight up. So 14-18 ATDC is the target for maximum cylinder pressure. The ignition timing for maximum power is after the point of knock, but it will also destroy the piston, so the OPTIMAL timing is bouncing off knock sensor as you describe. Maximum power is temporary, optimal power is optimal.
I sent you a message on Facebook asking for some more info on the Bluetti. I’ve been wondering how it’s going long term? Thanks for all of your content John.
Despite the fact that he did not open with the phrase "It's not my fault" , that article screams "written by a millennial who has extensively researched the topic on Face Book .
I've had my FC ute since 1985 I got gifted from my grandfather only because he had his licence taken from him for being too old to drive I look after that old ute batter than my self I'm pretty sure that old FC will last longer than me as long as nobody steals it or run's into me
@@rocketgg3169although your forever comment is technically correct the Original Posters comment still stands. Forever car is normally understood to be a car that can outlast your entire driving career. That ute is working it's way through a 3rd generation owners driving career. Ironic we have to look to vehicles seventy years from the past to achieve this and modern cars are flat out surviving thier warranty period
I have three cars over 60 years old. Only one never stopped being used until i replaced the motor with a more powerful one. My other cars are 35+ years old, and both have original motors even with modifications. My daily driver is a v8 vf Holden and i will be able to keep fixing it for decades to come based on engine management systems that are already over 30 and still going. Plus they only options now besides a mazda6 wagon are shitbox dual cabs and suvs.
The piston stops twice per crankshaft revolution before reversing its direction of travel. The piston accelerates from stationery to maximum speed mid-stroke then decelerates to stationary. An engine reciprocates, a motor rotates.
John could you find some time in your inimitable way to enlighten some on MZ and German missile scientist Walter Kaaden made significant contributions to the development of two-stroke engines, including their resonant expansion-chamber exhaust systems.
Well, manufacturers recommend oil changes at half the recommended intervals for stop start, towing, high speed driving etc. Basically unless you drive at 80kmh for 40km each trip, the servicing is too far apart.
It's easy, just follow the "Severe Service" service schedule. The normal one is intended to let the maker publish low maintenance figures and hopefully get your car through the warranty period.
When I was 13 I attempted to make Mercury II Fulminate in my Parents Bathroom. I had a plastic sheet taped to the exhaust fan draped over the boiling Nitric Acid and Mercury. I'm thinking of how my parents must have felt raising me up from childhood. I feel sorry for them. I had an obsessive interest in Chemistry and I was kind of a cleverly dangerous kid. A week later I burned my hand with combusting Phosphorous. Wow. Didn't slow me down. I had some experiments with Chloroform that were waiting to be run.
I've run diesels for 45 years . Someone stole a David Brown crawler from the site and I assume left the throttle wide open. Because when I found it next to the road. A piston had gone through the side of the engine and embedded itself in the frame.. The machine was scrapped.
Good on you John for calling these bullshitters out, as someone needs to! And I do trust that if and when you know Daisy Duke is coming to town you'll let us all know. 🤣
using what you said earlier in the video, roughly the ignition is advanced to a set amount to generate maximum power, if that's correct, preignition, knocking, detonation, whatever, won't generate maximum power aka lose performance, even in an old carby distributor engine.
Detonation is when the combustion flame front exceeds the speed of sound. Instead of a burn that heats the combustion chamber evenly, it literally explodes and sends a shock wave to the top of the piston. It doesn’t matter where the piston is. It will bash everything to death if it happens often. Preignition is when the ignition happens so that peak pressure occurs before top dead centre and tries to make the engine run backwards. That would be a different kind of wrong
@@theairstig9164 i d;sn't think that's the best definition of preignition, but I always thought knocking was caused by preignition, but maybe you can get a knock from ignition caused by the spark of the spark plug.
To be a tad pedantic. 99% of detonation events happen after combustion is initiated by the spark. Pre-ignition is combustion starting before the spark. They are usually two separate mechanisms. Both are symptoms of other underlaying issues.
To add more tech bollocks; Detonation does not cause overheating, the overheating causes the detonation. This can be seen by EGTs dropping when detonation occurs. The energy that would normally progressively heat and expand the gases is instead converted into noise and mechanical violence, any expansion occuring too quickly, and at the wrong crank angle, to be harnessed. That said, best power requires low level detonation to be occuring, else combustion is not making the most of the available energy.
Not pedantic at all. It's rare that John gets something wrong, but in this case he did and your correction is warranted. To be fair, he did somewhat correct himself later in the video.
Hey John, love your work. I'm off topic, but thought it important enough to inform you of what recently dropped on IOTP (John Adams & Martin North's YT channel). '7 Days to stop 1984' quite dire IMO & keen to see your take on it.
engine knock usually doesn't happen before spark happens. It's about when spark happens and it shakes whole mixture with pressure and movement, fuel air mix finds kinda hot part like exhaust valve and starts burning at multiple places and whole burning process happens faster than should be. If full knock detonation happens kinda early in compression engine is kinda 100 kg waste metal
There are likely over a million cars older than 75 years registered in America, though probably not daily driven. There are so many model-T cars that every single part of the car is available today. You could build a brand new Model T from parts. Putting aside the "forever" in forever, if you were willing to spend the money and be stuck with a severely out of date car, you could buy a new car when you're 18 and keep it as your only car till the day you die.
Dwell was the amount of time the points were closed for. Smaller points gap meant a greater dwell angle which enabled the coil to charge for longer in order to produce a stronger spark. Widening the points gap reduces dwell but it does advance ignition timing due to the points being open a fraction sooner. That's more a side effect than a timing adjustment.
@@jamesforge8107 Yep; ignition timing was adjusted by turning the distributor; hilarious how people with a little knowledge get it wrong with such confidence..
When you see the seemingly endless parade of cars with oil in the windscreen washer bottle, water lines hooked up to automatic transmission breathers and many many more hilarious things on the 'Just Rolled In' youtube channel, perhaps average person of the street doing maintenance on their car isn't such a good idea.
Just buy yourself an old corolla, camry, hilux or 100 series, whatever fits your needs and change the oil every 10k. minimal depreciation and just basic maintenance you can do yourself.
I have this RON rating argument with so many fools that believe 98 is a literal premium and everything below that, especially E10 is rubbish . Even the dude taking cars on 2GB makes these stupid statements 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Only really an issue if you have a car with a GPF (gasoline particulate filter). They require low sulphur fuel, which is only guaranteed with 95 and 98 RON fuels in Australia. 91 and E10 can be up to 150ppm sulphur which can severely reduce the life of the GPF.
You might not be able to make your car last forever but there are a surprising number of Ford Model T around the world over 100 years old that still run.
Choose your engine carefully section states that your "petrol engine has to rev to 6500 rpm or higher." Does it really? I mean, REALLY! I always valve bounce down to the corner shop and do keep it in second gear at highway speeds just to keep the J2 Bedford where Tyler Bedford insists it has to be.
@AutoExpertJC You want to do a video on the Toyota shame that is their warranty department regarding GR yarises spontaneously combusting. They even reveal that they are mining on your personal driving metrics too! Easy to sell on to insurance companies as always 🤣
The problem with forever cars is you don't get the opportunity for full technical advancements. Unless we are happy that it won't be possible to improve safety and crash structures, I wouldn't entertain a forever car.
By coincidence I watched a repeat episode of Mythbusters. They were testing mercury fulminate and their results agreed with your statement that the "Breaking Bad" explosive effect of Hg(CNO)2 was greatly exaggerated.
A crystal that big would be very dangerous, and the rest of it in the bag would have almost certainly killed them both. But it was pretty cool in a drama...
Some quick math here: E10 is 10% (1 out of 10) ethanol, so if ethanol had a heat energy content of 0 btu it would reduce power by 10%, requiring you to add fuel to compensate -- ergo lower milage (assuming the load doesn't change). The problem with your concern is that ethanol does indeed contain somewhat more than 0 btu when it amounts to 10% of the mixture and it is added mostly for other reasons (not gonna argue over whether those reasons are worthwhile, but i'll note that I run E15 in my direct injection engine in an attempt to keep the intake valve clean when I don't run "Top Tier" fuel with that additive mix of cleaners).
You work at the local tip. You take goods from the retailer and you send those goods to the rubbish tip. How much that your parents spent all their/your inheritance on have you still got. Either it's at the tip or will be shortly
Is the piston slowing down on the way back up after ignition? What about the other piston that is in the ignition downwards phase? Doesn't that drive all the other cylinders? Surely the crankshaft would not allow any cylinder to travel at a different speed to the other cylinders?
@@ehb403 not confused, rotation converted to reciprocal, in a cycloid motion, pistons move at their slowest at the top and at the bottom, fastest when the big end is at 90°. I'm saying pistons do not come back up slower after ignition, all pistons attached to the crank, move at the same rate (varying in velocity, obviously, due to the degree of crank rotation), I think we are agreeing with each other here. A piston cannot decide it will move back up at a slower rate because its power stroke has been spent. Which is what our dude seems to say.
@@Zebedeedoo ahhh, it's the geometry then. The angle (crank journal/ rod) is larger at the top of the crank movement than at the bottom, pulling the piston downward faster than it moves at the bottom (drawing it out might help).
@@ehb403 not sure what you mean, but a piston moves at its fastest while the con rod is at 90° to the direction of movement the piston is travelling in, and slowest as that very angle decreases til it stops, and reverses direction. I'm getting a bit fed up explaining this to people who feel the need to explain to me.
I use good ole clear waxoil on my cars and got 25 years of use out of my last diesel car which totted up nearly 300 thousand miles with regular oil changes. I expect my new 3 year old car to last just as long. Im also rescuing an old classic before all you can buy is an EV.
Heat death is coming. It may take several trillion years but our universe will also end😂. In the mean time, maintain your car and it will last... ummm... long enough.
The good old days of leaded fuel, no valve recession and knock was rare. I maintained a lead blender in a refinery back in the late seventies to early eighties injecting Tel and TML into the motor spirit storage tanks. When we discontinued using leaded fuel we still had inventory of TEL and TML we sold it to India! The storage tanks were demolished and the steel was incinerated to remove all traces, highly toxic. When the lab technicians at GM first made it they turned black and died, back in 1925. We dumped God knows how much into the atmosphere and we breathed it but our engines loved it. I know what TEL smells like, don't ask me how I know. .
The good old days of leaded fuel, no valve recession and knock was rare. I seriously have to disagree with that statement. I had to do hundreds headjobs because of valve recession back in the day.
So did Drive actually find a 'forever' car. I mean, they've been around for about 130-140 years and while that's short of forever, it's longer that Zeedoube's forever existence. And do you have to be simple to simply drive the car into the next millennium ?
changing the oil is cheaper than changing the engine and changing the engine is usually cheaper than buying a new shitbox.
... and buying a new shitbox is usually cheaper than buying one without an engine and oil change needs, i.e. EV.
I've bought old falcon sixes for $500 before. Let's do the maths. It normally costs say $100 per oil change (I do them myself) every 5000kms. So over 50000kms, that's $1000. If one $500 intech last 50000kms on one oil change, that's a lot cheaper.
@@bigjaz8768hell of a lot easier (and less wasteful) to change oil instead of engines.
@@YZJB hey bro guess what
@@bigjaz8768Is everything more expensive in Australia?
In the olden dayz. Some of us used a Timing Light and manually adjusted a device called the distributor. After the points, singular, or dual if it was a hot rod, were correctly set. For extra punishment, some workshops even had a spark plug cleaning machine.
Still have mate 👍
I have a wudell Vixen spark plug blaster, matter of fact I have two of em.
@@ridervfr2798 mine came courtesy of the good folks at KLG, admittedly I use the test side way more than the cleaning.
When you could tune a car by the sound , life was much simpler and people more happier. Plus they use to actually talk to each other 😂
Carbs, dizzies, and avgas forever!
John well sed im retired x mechanic and did a lot of forced induction over the years all engines have advanced over the years . what you sed was perfect to me Its a shame the average person will not understand most of that. In my time i have seen some vehicles do 500000 thousand ks and some others with 800000 all because of oil changer on time and not abusing the engine in general Thumb up bud keep up the good work
Here's how you can make your car last forever....
Step 1: Buy a Camry.
Step 2: Service it when necessary.
Now your car really will last forever.
Scotty K would agree
An AU, BA or BF Falcon wagon or ute are reliable, durable easy and inexpensive cars to service and maintain. I have both with 480ks and 515 k's.
Toyotas are the most dull boring cars & I don't personally like them. My nephew had a 90's camry (>250K miles). He only did the brakes the first time a few years ago, changed out plugs wire & belts the first time at the same time. The parts he pulled off it were factory parts. Absolutely solid car. No rust, decent paint, good interior, everything still worked. I was impressed.
It's not 1999.
New model Camry's are hybrid only..
I have a vintage car still running has outlasted my father who was born the same year as the car, it was his.
Out of interest, what you got?
@@dazdoestip6459 27 Morris Oxford utility
@@dazdoestip6459 1995 Honda Civic EG
These stories are like the the ones smokers tell non-smokers about how they have this uncle tom who smoked 10 packs a day his entire life and lived to 100. If all it took was changing your oil regular to keep that combustion engine in good working order there would alot more old cars on the road.
@@franky3236 my mother-in-law is 92 and still smokes. It's really amazing how some people seem to live forever but most of us don't.
I enjoy your sense of humour. Mostly useful info. Thanks.
Gave the A+ Metro motor in my Mini an overbore and rebuild 20 odd years ago, not because it really needed it but because it was coming apart for other work. Car has gone near 200k since, oil and filter get changed at a minimum yearly, compression still spot on... rock solid.
However, A panels and sills, well, better have some welding and grinding skills...
Ah, the great old A Series engine, A+ in many Metro's. I change my oil at 3 to 4k miles. Did 204k miles in two years in my minivan, I miss that car.
In my 53 year driving career, I have broken a rod, burnt pistons down past the second ring (twice), seized a big end, burnt a hole through the crown of a piston . These all happened at full throttle and maximum effort.
Great work!! That's what cars were for - in the good old days,!
Mine was difs and greaboxes the I broke. Ah the good old days. Worked heads, balanced and blue printed block, lumpy cam and a set of weber carbies. Nothing like you get now
@@QRCoalyou can still get them old cars but they are slower than new cars even with lots of work.
None of you idiots get it
@Low760 ah yeah nah, that's a modern myth. Not too many things are getting past a blown bigblock and with a couple of DP holley carbs up top (that's an old school fuel system not something you eat) will cost somewhere between a 1/20th to 1/10th of modifying a modern engine.
JC, I purchased my first car back in 1993. A Ford XC ute which I still have today.
It now has an EFI 6 cyl and I love the old rig.
There are two spare engines tucked under the bench ready for a rapid return to service.
Happy listening to my MP3 player hacked into the "stereo" as I am terrified of buying a new blue oval shitbox and being bombarded with advertising or worse being managed onto the wrong side of the road by an in car psychopath that knows better than I.
You are not convincing me that new cars are "better".
Please keep up the good work.
Death on wheels.
It looks cool, but that's about it.
I have a au falcon ute and have no interest in a new car I don't care about anything new it is all shit food movies cloths everything going to shit bye world don't want you
Xg* but they are a good car. Just get an fg
You're 100% correct no one lives forever only your spirit lives forever but not your body😊
Years ago, I was waiting for a phone call to start a new job. It came suddenly one afternoon. I started the next day as a mechanic with a hire boat company. A private boat had stopped the day before with a minor engine problem. The company boss had gone to take a look, had started the engine, a 4 cylinder diesel, had revved it up and 5 seconds later the oil pressure dropped to zero. I went on board and started the engine which ran smoothly but with still no oil pressure. I looked around the engine and discovered cracks on the right side of the block. When I took off the rocker cover, the rear two sets of tappets were completely loose. After taking the engine to bits, I discovered the camshaft had broken into 3 parts and a conrod had broken and shattered the block. All due to revving up a cold engine. Ended up fitting a new engine in the boat.
I've had a Honda four stroke 'whipper snipper' for sixteen years. In summer, I use it every week for two-thirds of the year. I've replaced the oil once. I replaced that 'bump thing' to extend the cord once.
I do, however, clean it down for inspection standard after use and carry it very carefully to the shed before placing it in its resting place and wishing it a good night.
I'm seventy four now, so I'd like to be able to leave my estate to my Honda 'Whipper snipper' as opposed to my ungrateful five children.
I've spent more time with it.
I
Mate, they take 50mL of oil and it takes 30 seconds to change it. Change it!
@YZJB I started that thing a week ago with a first start pull with no sign of problem after sixteen years
I've been using these things for fifty years. Oil will last much longer than my old joints.
You keep on doing what you feel is necessary, old chap.
I'll do what I do.
😂😂😂😂 So true mate!
@@Parawingdelta2 the only way you will find out that you are delusional is if someone else tells you so much...just saying. When we get to the end of our rope or that of our particular engine's it is too late to save it.
@Parawingdelta2 I identify as a 16 year old Honda Whipper Snipper, can I have all your stuff when you kick the bucket?
Well explained John. As a keep ‘em till they die guy my tips are; pick a vehicle with a long production run drive train, preferably with an enthusiast community. Bonus points if you can go post CAD but pre Finite Element Analysis.
Change your oil at least every 10000 km, half that if it’s all short trips. Go up a grade in oil viscosity, i.e instead of 5w30 go 10w40.
You mean 5000km. That's what I do in my LS Motors.
@@Low760 my ls1 has over 400k with no issues and I have been less than perfect on changes, all highway though.
What oil are you using?
My mate used to call a rod out of the block, an electrical fault - when the rod knocked the alternator off the block. All very simple really.
@@glenncpw my dad said the same thing, racing MGs at Phillip Island!
I guess I watch your videos because I like to hear rational thought on a regular basis. I'm a retired mechanic, started in the mid-sixties, things are "a lot more advanced these days" but the same basic principles still apply. I've got two hundred thousand miles on an 05 F-350, it'll probably get five hundred K before she's retired. I hope I never buy another car or truck, probably a pretty good chance. Always a pleasure!
John your detailed little explanation there on the operation cycles of a reciprocating engine of a car is one of the best cases I've heard for the promotion of a Rotary engine, (Mazda RX7, RX8, etc), though I fully understand the particular issues that they come with, they still seem a more logical prospect.
Heavy on gasoline thou
Mazda still makes the rotary engine, it’s in the MX-30 R-EV
Hilarious confirmation bias.
Who else got the Doug Mulray gag? How I miss those non-PC days!
I interviewed him once. I'm not gay, but...
$50 is $50 ??
@@AutoExpertJC Don't knock it until you have tried it? 😮
@@AutoExpertJC I used to be gay but I had to give it up because it made my eyes water..
I think the era of car you would need to buy to have it last a lifetime is a long way in the past. The nearest I have is a Massey Ferguson 35x tractor of 1963 vintage that does a good days work and has decayed far less in the last 25 years than I have so I am fairly confident it will comfortably see me out. Spares, including full engine rebuild kits, injectors DPA pumps, tinwork, etc are all still available which is remarkable.
Can't agree. Late 80s and 90s car have ECUs that prove to be reliable and less hassle then carby shite, the body panels are rust treated well and overall they aren't that much different to a new car.
@@Low760 Well, there are plenty of 70 year old cars with carbs that are still running. It remains to be seen whether ECUs last that long. Spare 90s ECUs still available in 2060? Only time will tell.
Just love the detail John, i just imagine flowery journalism schittin itself worrying what they wrote to impress, i got lost at the first mention of octane rating, nah but wasn’t long after.
I hope I can last a fair bit longer. I just recently remarried for life this time. Only number 3.
Hoping to keep my 2015 A6 Biturbo Diesel, a fair bit longer too, John.
Hopefully to avoid BEV, HEV and PHEV,and any other form of new age propulsion, all of which the idea of, shit me to tears.
anything with wheels works mate. Don't worry so much how it works. Keep relaxing with #3!
It's an Audi, look at how many 2000s Audi's are left and why they die. Usually electrical and no one wants to fix them. And then the motor.
Nice! Digging up the Dukes of Hazzard reference. That dates me..
There is an effect that used to be called acceptable quality. The idea is you only produce a quality that people will accept whether it be manufacturing service industry and even journalism the problem being is as the acceptable quality becomes the norm people will then start to accept a slightly lower quality and it ends up in a downward spiral of quality until you get to where we are now. Hopefully we are at or near the dregs of the barrel and people will start demanding better quality but the climb back up will be slower than the slide down
We've been downhill since the 60s but ok
I've built my own computers since the 90's. I could never afford the prices computer shops charged so I got the components myself and squeezed the most out of them for as long as I could. Recently I quit smoking and had some car trouble so I thought I'd have a go at it to keep me busy. Quick self research found out I'll fucking die if use the supplied jack. Back to research and figured I could spend $300 on not dying and another $100 on making things easier, but it's capital expenditure so should be wife safe. Since then I've fixed a vacuum leak, changed various hoses, ignition coils and cables, sparks (and learned how to check gap), break pads, speed sensor (that was a c) and am about to do the cooling system. I'll try and make it my forever car just so I don't have to buy a new spyware on wheels.
I still enjoy paying my Amiga 500 on weekends.
@@HaMMeR_Oz not a 486?
Now you just need to learn the difference between breaks and brakes, mate
Your comments about knock are pretty good really. Maximum cylinder pressure doesn't happen at TDC, it's more like 14-18 ATDC, I figured it would be 90 ATDC because of the lever arm, but that would mean that the piston would need to be directly above the crank throw. But the crank/rod angle wouldn't be right for maximum torque since the rod will be at it's maximum angle instead of straight up. So 14-18 ATDC is the target for maximum cylinder pressure.
The ignition timing for maximum power is after the point of knock, but it will also destroy the piston, so the OPTIMAL timing is bouncing off knock sensor as you describe. Maximum power is temporary, optimal power is optimal.
I sent you a message on Facebook asking for some more info on the Bluetti.
I’ve been wondering how it’s going long term?
Thanks for all of your content John.
Despite the fact that he did not open with the phrase "It's not my fault" , that article screams "written by a millennial who has extensively researched the topic on Face Book .
I've had my FC ute since 1985 I got gifted from my grandfather only because he had his licence taken from him for being too old to drive I look after that old ute batter than my self I'm pretty sure that old FC will last longer than me as long as nobody steals it or run's into me
Forever=Forever
Forever is a shite tonne longer than you will be around
(Shite tonne longer = technical term)
@@rocketgg3169although your forever comment is technically correct the Original Posters comment still stands. Forever car is normally understood to be a car that can outlast your entire driving career. That ute is working it's way through a 3rd generation owners driving career. Ironic we have to look to vehicles seventy years from the past to achieve this and modern cars are flat out surviving thier warranty period
I have three cars over 60 years old. Only one never stopped being used until i replaced the motor with a more powerful one. My other cars are 35+ years old, and both have original motors even with modifications. My daily driver is a v8 vf Holden and i will be able to keep fixing it for decades to come based on engine management systems that are already over 30 and still going. Plus they only options now besides a mazda6 wagon are shitbox dual cabs and suvs.
The piston stops twice per crankshaft revolution before reversing its direction of travel. The piston accelerates from stationery to maximum speed mid-stroke then decelerates to stationary.
An engine reciprocates, a motor rotates.
Common sense - thank you John!
John could you find some time in your inimitable way to enlighten some on
MZ and German missile scientist Walter Kaaden made significant contributions to the development of two-stroke engines, including their resonant expansion-chamber exhaust systems.
Saily saw a very hot spot in the add. I'm sold.😂
Best intro ever 🤗
Well, manufacturers recommend oil changes at half the recommended intervals for stop start, towing, high speed driving etc. Basically unless you drive at 80kmh for 40km each trip, the servicing is too far apart.
Knock, knock..."who's there?"......"Zane with the stupid tie"....
Going off Early and Detonating.. Story of my life really 😀
I cannot wait for the future but I can wait for the future😊
It's easy, just follow the "Severe Service" service schedule. The normal one is intended to let the maker publish low maintenance figures and hopefully get your car through the warranty period.
Did you get all that Max? "Yes chief, except the bit after listen closely..."
Sometimes your personal biases cloud your ability to be unbiased.
Good content from you Very advertorial content from Drive.
When I was 13 I attempted to make Mercury II Fulminate in my Parents Bathroom. I had a plastic sheet taped to the exhaust fan draped over the boiling Nitric Acid and Mercury.
I'm thinking of how my parents must have felt raising me up from childhood. I feel sorry for them. I had an obsessive interest in Chemistry and I was kind of a cleverly dangerous kid.
A week later I burned my hand with combusting Phosphorous. Wow. Didn't slow me down. I had some experiments with Chloroform that were waiting to be run.
I wish my old VK Commodore would've lasted forever. I liked your PRO TIP, very funny.
I've run diesels for 45 years . Someone stole a David Brown crawler from the site and I assume left the throttle wide open. Because when I found it next to the road. A piston had gone through the side of the engine and embedded itself in the frame.. The machine was scrapped.
🙂I have no comment to make or contribute but, AEJC version is a very convincing point view? and one I'm going with 🙂
Good on you John for calling these bullshitters out, as someone needs to! And I do trust that if and when you know Daisy Duke is coming to town you'll let us all know. 🤣
I'm certainly looking forward to it...
John, have you seen Catherine Bach lately? She's more of a teepee dismantler these days...
using what you said earlier in the video, roughly the ignition is advanced to a set amount to generate maximum power, if that's correct, preignition, knocking, detonation, whatever, won't generate maximum power aka lose performance, even in an old carby distributor engine.
Detonation is when the combustion flame front exceeds the speed of sound. Instead of a burn that heats the combustion chamber evenly, it literally explodes and sends a shock wave to the top of the piston. It doesn’t matter where the piston is. It will bash everything to death if it happens often.
Preignition is when the ignition happens so that peak pressure occurs before top dead centre and tries to make the engine run backwards. That would be a different kind of wrong
@@theairstig9164 i d;sn't think that's the best definition of preignition, but I always thought knocking was caused by preignition, but maybe you can get a knock from ignition caused by the spark of the spark plug.
To be a tad pedantic.
99% of detonation events happen after combustion is initiated by the spark.
Pre-ignition is combustion starting before the spark.
They are usually two separate mechanisms.
Both are symptoms of other underlaying issues.
To add more tech bollocks;
Detonation does not cause overheating, the overheating causes the detonation.
This can be seen by EGTs dropping when detonation occurs. The energy that would normally progressively heat and expand the gases is instead converted into noise and mechanical violence, any expansion occuring too quickly, and at the wrong crank angle, to be harnessed.
That said, best power requires low level detonation to be occuring, else combustion is not making the most of the available energy.
Not pedantic at all. It's rare that John gets something wrong, but in this case he did and your correction is warranted. To be fair, he did somewhat correct himself later in the video.
I wasn't going to comment from the darkish place where I was at until you hated down on the universe, that did me cold. Cheers to you.
I love the universe. God's code could do with a tweak.
I remember the answer to this one its.. "Keep the oil pressure up all the time even when the engine is off"...
I've still got a Holden Commodore that turns over, for anyone old enough to remember those bad boys
NOT A SCAM - My car has lasted Forever. Product Works
love your learnin stuff
Did somebody say hotties?
YESSSSSSSS!
Hey John, love your work. I'm off topic, but thought it important enough to inform you of what recently dropped on IOTP (John Adams & Martin North's YT channel). '7 Days to stop 1984' quite dire IMO & keen to see your take on it.
engine knock usually doesn't happen before spark happens. It's about when spark happens and it shakes whole mixture with pressure and movement, fuel air mix finds kinda hot part like exhaust valve and starts burning at multiple places and whole burning process happens faster than should be.
If full knock detonation happens kinda early in compression engine is kinda 100 kg waste metal
2001 Toyota HiLux Twincab, 550,000 kms and still going (I probably should not have said that !)
There are likely over a million cars older than 75 years registered in America, though probably not daily driven. There are so many model-T cars that every single part of the car is available today. You could build a brand new Model T from parts.
Putting aside the "forever" in forever, if you were willing to spend the money and be stuck with a severely out of date car, you could buy a new car when you're 18 and keep it as your only car till the day you die.
Gracias loco.
In my past, pre-ignition/ knock was known as "pinking". Ignition advance was known as "dwell angle".
Dwell was the amount of time the points were closed for. Smaller points gap meant a greater dwell angle which enabled the coil to charge for longer in order to produce a stronger spark.
Widening the points gap reduces dwell but it does advance ignition timing due to the points being open a fraction sooner. That's more a side effect than a timing adjustment.
@@jamesforge8107 Yep; ignition timing was adjusted by turning the distributor; hilarious how people with a little knowledge get it wrong with such confidence..
Yes , that's right ...
When you see the seemingly endless parade of cars with oil in the windscreen washer bottle, water lines hooked up to automatic transmission breathers and many many more hilarious things on the 'Just Rolled In' youtube channel, perhaps average person of the street doing maintenance on their car isn't such a good idea.
Spray foam works wonders.
9:02 Doug Mulray: god indeed. And a nice coincidence - I was listening to his album _Nice Legs Shame About The Fez_ just last week. 👍
Have I been told lies about squeeze, suck bang blow???? JOHN!
My 1992 F150 351 4x4 will last with me for my forever, that pull 4500kg comfortably
Just buy yourself an old corolla, camry, hilux or 100 series, whatever fits your needs and change the oil every 10k. minimal depreciation and just basic maintenance you can do yourself.
I have this RON rating argument with so many fools that believe 98 is a literal premium and everything below that, especially E10 is rubbish .
Even the dude taking cars on 2GB makes these stupid statements 🤷🏼♂️🤷🏼♂️
Only really an issue if you have a car with a GPF (gasoline particulate filter). They require low sulphur fuel, which is only guaranteed with 95 and 98 RON fuels in Australia. 91 and E10 can be up to 150ppm sulphur which can severely reduce the life of the GPF.
I carefully choose my engine every week. Thanks for that gem, drive.
But drive forgot to add: "Do not defecate inside your car".
You might not be able to make your car last forever but there are a surprising number of Ford Model T around the world over 100 years old that still run.
I don't buy E10 but it's cheaper at the pump if that's what matters,not that it needs to be that way either.
Choose your engine carefully section states that your "petrol engine has to rev to 6500 rpm or higher." Does it really? I mean, REALLY! I always valve bounce down to the corner shop and do keep it in second gear at highway speeds just to keep the J2 Bedford where Tyler Bedford insists it has to be.
@AutoExpertJC You want to do a video on the Toyota shame that is their warranty department regarding GR yarises spontaneously combusting. They even reveal that they are mining on your personal driving metrics too! Easy to sell on to insurance companies as always 🤣
I’ve managed to put a fist size hole in the side of a Ford 4.1 litre straight six when two pistons decided to exit the side of the block.
Incipient. $5 dollar word right there. I like Incipient Skid. When your tires start to sing around a curve letting you know it's time to ease up...
Don't forget that 91 octane has high sulfer content and that's why i don't use it.
PS you want peak cylinder pressure after TDC...
Your giving me nightmares JC .......lolololol
Great talk ok. We drive complex machines.
The only way to have a literal 'forever car' is to replace *every* part of the car, making it the car equivalent of the Ship of Thesus... :)
Having a degree in thermodynamic well done John. Their word was just BS
My JE Camira is still going.
Yes!!!
The problem with forever cars is you don't get the opportunity for full technical advancements.
Unless we are happy that it won't be possible to improve safety and crash structures, I wouldn't entertain a forever car.
By coincidence I watched a repeat episode of Mythbusters. They were testing mercury fulminate and their results agreed with your statement that the "Breaking Bad" explosive effect of Hg(CNO)2 was greatly exaggerated.
A crystal that big would be very dangerous, and the rest of it in the bag would have almost certainly killed them both. But it was pretty cool in a drama...
In the US E10 is a legal way to dope fuels to reduce mileage...
Some quick math here: E10 is 10% (1 out of 10) ethanol, so if ethanol had a heat energy content of 0 btu it would reduce power by 10%, requiring you to add fuel to compensate -- ergo lower milage (assuming the load doesn't change). The problem with your concern is that ethanol does indeed contain somewhat more than 0 btu when it amounts to 10% of the mixture and it is added mostly for other reasons (not gonna argue over whether those reasons are worthwhile, but i'll note that I run E15 in my direct injection engine in an attempt to keep the intake valve clean when I don't run "Top Tier" fuel with that additive mix of cleaners).
I like cars
Slow speed combustion is also what is required in a gun chamber . .
You work at the local tip. You take goods from the retailer and you send those goods to the rubbish tip. How much that your parents spent all their/your inheritance on have you still got. Either it's at the tip or will be shortly
Is the piston slowing down on the way back up after ignition?
What about the other piston that is in the ignition downwards phase? Doesn't that drive all the other cylinders? Surely the crankshaft would not allow any cylinder to travel at a different speed to the other cylinders?
Not only does it, it requires it. You're confusing linear velocity with rotational velocity.
@@ehb403 not confused, rotation converted to reciprocal, in a cycloid motion, pistons move at their slowest at the top and at the bottom, fastest when the big end is at 90°. I'm saying pistons do not come back up slower after ignition, all pistons attached to the crank, move at the same rate (varying in velocity, obviously, due to the degree of crank rotation), I think we are agreeing with each other here. A piston cannot decide it will move back up at a slower rate because its power stroke has been spent. Which is what our dude seems to say.
@@Zebedeedoo ahhh, it's the geometry then. The angle (crank journal/ rod) is larger at the top of the crank movement than at the bottom, pulling the piston downward faster than it moves at the bottom (drawing it out might help).
@@ehb403 not sure what you mean, but a piston moves at its fastest while the con rod is at 90° to the direction of movement the piston is travelling in, and slowest as that very angle decreases til it stops, and reverses direction. I'm getting a bit fed up explaining this to people who feel the need to explain to me.
Nice gay t-shirt John!@!
From dream-world?
I use good ole clear waxoil on my cars and got 25 years of use out of my last diesel car which totted up nearly 300 thousand miles with regular oil changes.
I expect my new 3 year old car to last just as long. Im also rescuing an old classic before all you can buy is an EV.
Water and oil!
The easiest way to make your car outlast you would be to take up a handful of extreme sports.
I agree with the first comment
Heat death is coming. It may take several trillion years but our universe will also end😂.
In the mean time, maintain your car and it will last... ummm... long enough.
long live the 5gen Bronco, the last real bronco.
The good old days of leaded fuel, no valve recession and knock was rare.
I maintained a lead blender in a refinery back in the late seventies to early eighties injecting Tel and TML into the motor spirit storage tanks.
When we discontinued using leaded fuel we still had inventory of TEL and TML we sold it to India!
The storage tanks were demolished and the steel was incinerated to remove all traces, highly toxic.
When the lab technicians at GM first made it they turned black and died, back in 1925.
We dumped God knows how much into the atmosphere and we breathed it but our engines loved it.
I know what TEL smells like, don't ask me how I know.
.
The good old days of leaded fuel, no valve recession and knock was rare.
I seriously have to disagree with that statement.
I had to do hundreds headjobs because of valve recession back in the day.
They maybe we're using standard instead of super leaded fuel to save money.
So did Drive actually find a 'forever' car. I mean, they've been around for about 130-140 years and while that's short of forever, it's longer that Zeedoube's forever existence. And do you have to be simple to simply drive the car into the next millennium ?
Im thinking i might last forever! Done 25 years more than i thought i might at 19
Worked at super Retail Group brendail and was verbally asulted and accused of doing the wrong thing on day's I wernt even at work