Complete guide to camp equipment care and maintenance !
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
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Stay in the Woods,
Dan
A quick comment on wool blankets. The major issue is heat and agitation. If you have a blanket that is soiled and needs laundered, it wouldn't be the washer that is the culprit but the dryer because it combines heat and agitation which would cause the fabric to shrink and become felted. You could wash in cold water on gentle then hang to dry without a problem.
Occasional hand washing in a bathtub works well. Make you have soap/detergent specifically for wool. You don't want to strip the lanolin out of the fibers.
When sewing camp gear, waxed dental floss is a good material to use.
Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
I have found waxed sail twine is really good. They also call it whipping twine. Real sticky, real strong.
That's why Dan tells us to stay in the woods....we won't have to clean up! Lol
Thanks Dan
Good tips.
But what is of same if not even more importance in my case and in case anybody else lives in a monsoon area, close to a lake or in a coastal area, is the way how you store you gear if you don't use it.
Here is currently monsoon season what means that the air humidity is usually at much over 60%, e.g. now just now in the moment we have around 85%, coming down from 90 a couple of hours earlier. So everything you keep under such conditions in a cupboard will suck that moisture out of the air and inside itself, everything you keep laying around will do that as well, and that means even in a short period of time like one or two weeks most probably some horrible impact on your things might happen, like rust on your knives and fungus and mould all over your leather items, textiles, often also on wood and even on top of some plastic items.
So it is essential to keep dehumidifiers in your cupboards or plastic bins, ensure that openly laying things in your shelves and storage racks get always proper ventilation, and still you have to control everything every couple of weeks in order to keep everything fine.
And, not to forget: always, but especially in such scenarios, make wise buying decisions. Canvas, leather, carbon steel and wood is great if you live under normal circumstances and in an air conditioned environment, where you can store everything without much problems, but under frequently wet conditions like in tropical areas or near to the sea you do definitely better in the long run with synthetic materials instead of natural textiles or leather, or by having non rusting steels, g10 handles and kydex instead of having an fancy carbon steel oak wood handle custom made knife including a wonderful hand stitched leather sheath for it.
And you can trust me: I learned this the hard way and paid a lot of money for learning my lessons.
Great advice. 👍 I live on a very corrosive salt water estuary, and this plays havoc with cheap bicycle locks, carbon blades, and especially ferrocium rods.
Thank God for Plastic
Thanks for the reminder that gear maintenance is a required part of outdoor enjoyment.
Always a good reminder. Thanks Dan.
Ropes and lines: lay them out to dry. Store in a mesh bag so they get started drying in camp or while on the move.
Courtesy of Half Vast Flying
I don't dry my blades, and they do developed a black patina.
I do make sure the wooden handles dry, though. Also, all textile sleeping bag, rucksack, tarp, hammock, clothes....
Hey Dan, just a quick tip for ya. With cotton threads that are coming loose, trim them short and then put a drop of super glue on the frayed end to keep them from continuing to unravel. Seems to work for me.
Dam good info !!
🇺🇸🇺🇸🪓🔪👍👍
Mink Oil is a beloved secret weapon for soccer players the world over for use on their shoes to keep them conditioned and supple. Has great properties for outdoor equipment. I also use my own fix'n wax to keep some of my gear conditioned and water resistant.
Thanks Sir Dan 👍👍👍🇨🇱
When I played a lot of baseball. We put Barbersol Shaving cream on our gloves. Works pretty good and not real pricey.
I learned the heard way to keep my knives clean and dry . Put my machete into the sheath it came with after using it one day , only to pull it out weeks later and find it covered in rust . I now keep it oiled as well.
A vacuum cleaner and semi-firm brush is your friend when dealing with canvas and wool. Hang it up and GENTLY knock the dust out.
Also, an often overlooked leather treatment, especially leather that has been neglected a bit or sweat soaked, is saddle soap. A little water, work up a lather, scrub, then wipe dry with a soft cloth. Let it dry then apply your leather dressing. Saddle soap shouldn't be a every trip treatment (maybe once every year or two with hard use), but it can save leather that has dried out and even started to crack.
Hey Dan the man, can you spray wool and equipment with a lite film of Lysol, when they get smelly?
Trade guy here, 1/2 beeswax 1/2 lard for leather
Trad
@@fredsmythe4731 The edit button exists for a reason.
Toss in some vitamin E oil and it'll help keep the lard from going rancid and it'll work great as a balm on cuts and scrapes.
@@BoxcutterBushcraftinteresting
Also good for keeping the bitey things outside 👍👍
Great stuff as always ❤
Thanks, Dan! Some good advice about stuff we don't always think about! 🤔 😊
I use Obenaufs LP on my duster coat. It's great for canvas!
Good tips
Dan, please get a "dead cat" for your mike, as it may help get rid of that gasping inhaling noise.
Lard beeswax and turpentine and kerosene can save the homestead
Good advice as we approach Autumn. Don’t forget to winter your garden tools. Boiled linseed and Ballistal.
Look after your kit and it will look after you simple
My gear has been talking back!
I only use obinoffs. Made in Idaho. And you can use it on your skin and lips too. Natural beeswax.
Thank you, great info! I have a clothes line in the back yard and everything gets hung up on it for a day (Not over night). Bee's wax on all of my metal components after they have been cleaned and oiled..
Luckily I have a barn with a loft where I can spread stuff out, hang it up to dry.
Hurricane Debby just passed us.. she is headed your way!
Thank you
I've been lazy and avoiding problematic weather. I need to kick myself in the butt and get out there more often... Then I will have to do all this again 😁
Hi Dan..what about some chapstick for knife blades?
Obenauf’s products for canvas, leather, and wood.
Frog Lube makes a gun oil and a paste that are non toxic, works well for guns but I use it on knives that are used for food prep and field dressing/butchering too. I use the same leather conditioner/wax, also like the fact that it’s non toxic. Boiled linseed oil is one I’d like to find a good alternative for, for the most part when I use wooden handle tools I have leather gloves on but for say a wooden handle knife I’d prefer something that doesn’t have lead or other harsh chemicals. Suggestions?
👍👍👍 .. good advice .. thanks 😊.
However, your boots 🤨. A 'chase parade' aka 'pack drill' for you, troepie 😏.
My leather boots are 'dubbined' at least twice annually (more often depending on where they have been). Cleaned off after every outing and then, when necessary polished and buffed up with 'Kiwi' or 'Nugget' Shoe Polish. Habit .. engrained from the 50's .. parental school shoe inspection and then reinforced / 'set in concrete' during my time in the military😊.
Seed oils can go rancid. Recommend food grade mineral oil. That is what is used in commercial kiitchens
Mineral oil on those high carbon blades! Cheap and very effective. Rub it on and wipe leaving a thin coat.
Lard on leather works just fine.
Cool video
Ever think of packing a small transistor radio ?
I feel inadequate I don't think my gear loves me as much as yours love you 😢 lol nice video
Obenofts is the bomb.
I coat metal tools in Butchers wax ,thin coat let it dry
Water destroys mountains. What do you think it will do to your gear?
Hi Dan Wowak! Will it hurt my gear using those products that can be sprayed on the gear to make it water repellent? I’ve never washed my backpack, I do let it dry and plastic bags to protect my gear, however, every now and then my does get wet and I’ve thought about using those spray products being sold in the stores. Can you help us? Dan Wowak! Loving Coalcrackers Bushcraft 👍🏽👍🏽💯💯❤️❤️ from Washington State.
Stay away from silicone products on leather!
I liked MINK OIL! Put it on thick. Let set overnight. Then wipe off ( i use my finger) then put excess back in the jar.
There will still be a noticeable coating. Now get a alcohol flame, or whatever (dont recommend a bic or other small lighter) or charcoal lighter. Then just go over the shoes. Will quickly be absorbed by the leather!
When a white residue starts to show. Then repeat the process!
STAY SAFE!
So why don’t you use some of as you call it,modern materials???? Thx
I’ve used Snoseal in the past can I switch right to the LP stuff the next time I treat my ll bean shoes?
I just used up the last of my Snoseal last time I treated them. How opportune that you would have this video. Thanks.
Do the wood handles of knifes need any maintenance ?
Yes, same as axe or hammer handles. Boiled linseed oil is one option.
Rainy day,what's that
How about not using the old fashioned, heavy and bulky materials that need a lot of maintenance? What you're showing is re-enactment stuff aka LARP. And when it comes to the stitching on critical points just rub some cheap (childrens hobby) glue on it to prevent coming loose and reduce wear and tear.