You know what is crazy? To think that every single one of those components had to have been put in at some point when the laptop was manufactured. I've never seen so many parts in a laptop or ever really thought about it. Thanks for the great video!
The thing that was flying around inside was the ferrite housing of the little inductor right beside the power connector as can be seen at 14:14 in the top right corner.
Both the leakage and the teardown itself were extensive, kudos to you! I don't picture myself entirely disassembling a laptop because it probably wouldn't go back together due to me being slack & probably careless.
I absolutely love this era of Satellite laptops, especially my 335CDT. I had the same problem with corrosion from the Varta battery on a Pro 460CDT that I learned to take apart, even in the connector to the motherboard, but luckily the leak wasn't as bad as yours.
You can keep the glued plastic covers and stickers intact when you you use a heatgun with low heat and peel them off with a needle or something similar. Nice Video as always.
I made up a patch cable that plugs into the parallel port to reset password (think it was for the bios), works on quite a few models, needless to say it's sat unused in my parts bin for years. A nice, robustly built, range of laptops - the Librettos of the same (slightly younger) era were very similar, lots of pcmcia accessories too.
@@pamparitas Exactly, I'm holding on to it in the off chance I have a use for it. If I threw it, then discovered I needed another one - it would really p**s me off🙂
To remove that screw, on the CPU assembly you can try the following: 1. place the flat side of a rubber band into the stripped screw hole (similar to this: ruclips.net/video/jeULcDESsUY/видео.html) or 2. if you have a modular screw driver set, super glue one of the tips into the stripped screw Hope this helps. Look forward to seeing the part where you can this stuff. One more question: are you going to see if you can't replace that horrible LCD screen with something else?
@@RetroSpector78 if those fail, you’ll have to get the dremel out I guess. And make it compatible for a flat head screwdriver. I’ve enjoyed this video very much. I’ve got a Toshiba 486DX4-75 laptop lying around in a container, also disassembled. And also with the same kind of dreadful display. On mine the PSU is built in and capacitors need to be replaced. Also in the screen, so that’s quite the challenge. We’ll see how it goes! The three batteries aren’t particularly needed to be able to boot it. Although, it might be very interesting to at least replace the CMOS battery with a double CR2032 battery and a diode. That’s what I’m doing on mine. The rest really aren’t interesting to preserve. The battery for powering the laptop can easily be removed from its cover/cage, so the laptop will be a bit lighter in weight. Good luck on your project!
@@RetroSpector78 Gorilla glue or baking soda with super glue might help, adding a little bit between a spare screwdriver should expand the adhesive and fill the worn away thread to get a good grip again.
@@Inject0r I got a couple of those Toshiba 486 laptops as well. The thing I’m mostly stuck on right now is that the floppy drive uses a rubber belt for the drive spindle - and of course it’s toast. Not sure how easy it’ll be to find a replacement. :-/ I haven’t looked yet though. It’s halfway disassembled waiting for someday.
4:04 - That is due to the hard drive heads being stuck to the platters, and as the spindle motor has very little torque it can't overcome the head's friction force and spin up the disks. Removing the drive from the laptop subjects it to vibrations and small hits, that are enough to make the platters move a bit, freeing up the heads and finally making the drive to be able to spin again.
I’ve had similar experiences with small screws. Sometimes you do everything right and the head still strips out. It’s possible that was a cheap screw. It’s also possible that someone else has been inside this laptop and they started stripping the screw head. Once those screws start to strip, it can be very hard to keep it from happening even if you realize you were using the wrong driver and then go back and get the correct one. As a last resort, I’ve dremmeled a slot into screws to get them out. Not sure there’s enough room in your case to try that. And this is risky - you get metal bits everywhere, you risk damaging the screw head (and possibly making things worse), and you’ll probably have to find a replacement screw.
Being a Toshiba laptop these screws can be SJIS which are like Phillips but-not-quite. I usually have no problems unscrewing them with Phillips but the cam is different. Usually SJIS screws are marked with a dot in the head though.
the screw stuck in the aluminum heatsink is likely corroded in place. it looks like there has been some liquid in the laptop so that screw will be welded in place with white corrosion.
Regarding that screw, I found it fairly common for screws located neat major heat sources become baked to threads, especially when screw glure was used (Toshiba uses stronger red glue while most of manufacturers stick to blue one). I'd recommend hitting the screw through a screwdriver with a hammer couple of times (supporting it firmly from the other side of course). It may break some baking inside; I call this technique 'negitiations' :)
I seen a better idea on RUclips some days ago, melt some solder in the top of the screw, when it's filled the hole stick into a right bit and wait a bit to cool down, and voila you can untight the screw again. Regards Mark
Just get a #2 phillips for that screw, I often avoid those little kits with changeable bits unless I'm working on something with small torx or flathead screws. If you are out looking for a few decent screw drivers avoid plated ones and look for ones with blackened tips.
That Toshiba bootscreen brings up some memories from my first internship circa 2002. I had to use one of those (or similar model) running Windows 95 to do some basic AutoCAD drafting on. It was slow and not ideal for the task.
Hi Sir, Nice teardown video! Can you tell the method that you use to know wich screw goes were? I got all confused when I saw the huge pile of parts at the end. I have the problem of messing up with the screws when disassembling things and usually they are not so many like in this video. Thanks!
I have a dozen of awesome laptops from 1995-1999 era but they all have the same issue: terrible displays. For this reason I stopped collecting them, but it's a real shame, would be cool if it were possible replace them with some new ones, as for old handheld consoles, but I guess this is pretty much impossible due to the vastity of sizes and different/proprietary connectors they have 😕
@@RetroSpector78 yes sure, but this somehow defeats the whole laptop thing purpose because you probably also want an external mouse and keyboard to be more comfortable and at this point you better use directly a midi tower with proper video/sound cards and everything 😅
The TFT screens actually aren’t too bad. You just have to find a model that is using TFT (active matrix) instead of STN (passive matrix). The latter aren’t worth the glass they’re adhered to.
Another great video! I love the early Toshiba laptops, I now have two. With Phillips head screws, they are designed to be put in with a machine, when it reaches a certain torque level the bit is designed to ride up and out of the screw, so if you need to apply more torque to remove the screw the bit will try to ride up and out and strip the screw head. The screws may actually be J.I.S screws ( Japanese Industrial Standard) even if they are not, get yourself a set of J.I.S Screw Drivers from E-bay they will fit much better. Here is the description from E-bay, Premium JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set Japanese Industrial Standard Drivers New The Phillips screw drivers are more pointed on the end and the J.I.S screw drivers are more blunt on the end, if you have some bit sets you may already have some. Regards, Dave.
How did you keep track of which size screw goes where? Seeing the sorted stack of screws at the end seems like a nightmare for putting it back together later on. Also, use a rubber band to squish it between your screwdriver and the stripped screw. Should help to remove it.
Stay tuned for the next video ... Kept track of all sizes and created a piece of paper with some notes. Later on (when everything was dissembled) I did found a service manual that had detailed pictures with screw sizes for about 50% of the screw locations :)
Having its cousin, the Toshiba Satellite Pro 4010CDT (266 MHz instead of 233 MHz and TFT instead of DSTN), it is a pretty capable laptop for DOS gaming. Besides that, its OPL3-SA sound chipset is pretty good as well. If I remember well, I have another one (440CDT) who has a dead motherboard due to similar corrosion issues. 😂
I second the DOS gaming comment. I had one of these laptops back in the day and it was amazing to have both the floppy and cd rom built in! Ran many dos cdrom games flawlessly. Good to see that the LCD is just as bad as I remember it was....
On the topic of the fan, my Presario AMD k6-2 laptop's fan only spins when the battery is charging. Doesn't spin when the battery is removed or it's running from battery. Could be something like that.
12:38: That is no plastic part, that is ferrite and the top of an inductor or transformer. And at 13:35 you can see the rest of the inductor on the top right just below the power input socket.
Hey those are good laptops. I supported them for many years in a corporate environment, not the best but damn they gave there best over the years. Still have two of them and still works :)
I'm not so brave guessing how to disassemble a laptop, having some bad experience in breaking parts in the process, so I always try to search for a service manual. It can be easily found for this model, in the case of Toshiba it is named "Field replaceable unit documentation". It's terse, but it contains disassembly photos.
Found it after I created the cover photo with all of the components sitting on my desk :) Next time I'll google first :) But it was pretty straightforward. Hope the assembly process will go well and I don't forget the component that needs to be put in in step 3 when I'm at step 78 :)
4:00 ide hdd devices sometimes stuck with dust in the conector and by unplugging and plug-in again usually does work again, if not a bit of cleaning helps.
Are these supposed to work without those backup batteries? I have a similar notebook (does not work), I only took out the 2 green batteries and stopped the troubleshooting process until I gain more courage. And this video did not help with that, seeing all those screws and parts :D
It does start and operate correctly. Obviously you lose cmos settings and get the F1 warning. Most likely sleep / resume will not work properly but basic functions seem ok.
16:00 I got a screw extractor set on Amazon recently for a similar issue of restoring an IBM 380ED. The one I got was a lot worse and I managed to remove it fairly easily.
What screwdriver/bit were you using? They are not all equal especially with Phillips and similar screws. I see a lot of videos on RUclips with no name drivers and bits and that just isn’t a good idea. You need to go with really nice screwdrivers like Wiha or Vessel.
It was an ifixit bit-set. Tried both PH1 and PH0 on this laptop. There was little difference between the 2. Was told to alway try with the biggest option. If it doesn't fit take 1 size smaller. They were all philips screws on this laptop. M2.5 and M2.
Hey there. Just wanted to add while using this vid to help me teardown a 4010CDT on that cpu heatsink. Same thing happened to me on hole labelled #5, and looking at the screws that did come out you can see the remains of what was suredly a "lock-tight" type of something on the ends. So basically IMO they just choose a bad option for the screw type, whether a bigger surface or change to Torx IDK but they are just simply stubborn. I WOULD recommend doing it though as of course the original heat pad (btw I didn't know they went back that far) on mine, while still probably ok-ish, seemed a bit tired and indeed tore apart a bit upon removel. Not crumble just tore easy. Interesting block as it appears to be set to accept a dual processor setup underneat but not sure. I was hoping you had some tips on possible upgrades as in maybe where to add a heatsink. I'm gonna throw a couple here and there where possible after a little research. IDK if there are VRM's on these, doubt it, probably on the chip graphics but there might be something. btw how cool is that tiny fan, I love those things and have collected a few. They are actually fantastic for little DIY projects. Thanks for video.
For removing upper laptop part You don't need to work in tight space - after removing keyboard You need just pull up white plastic cover from holes in case to access connectors.. 😉 That black broken part inside is part of ferrite core. @ 16:30 right upper side of video, near connector is square ferrite core without ferrite cover part and all internals is visible..
Putting this laptop into its parts is quite like a dream, try the same with an actual modell i.e. from Acer or Asus... DSTN Screens are really horrible, I don´t think there will ever be a kind of nostalgia as we are experiencing to some extend with the CRTs for retro computers or consoles, but maybe, even the late 90s laptops gain their "retro"-fame soon as some models from the early 90s already have...You know, a system older than roundabout 25 years is already called "retro", a few years younger models are just considered to be "old", "outdated" or , worse, just "trash"...
Have a couple of thosiba's with TFT screens and it is indeed a world of difference. I do think these Toshiba's have this iconic purple look and feel that contributes to its retro factor. Not really a laptop fan as they are difficult to work with and repair. As this was a free hand-me-down I figured what the hell... lets just dump in and disassemble it completely.
Toshibas laptops from this era always have this batteries (and other brands as well). First order of business should be to always remove this batteries as soon as possible.
I actually had one of these maybe 10-13 years ago.. i used it with my first gen MagicJack(VOIP) phone device. Had to use Windows ME. on it. Could NOT get XP to run and my win 98 SE refused to work with the usb port. The laptop battery lasted a whole 8 minutes or so. :D
Ah, the question of what to do with old laptops... If the horrible screen can't be replaced with one using a superior display technology, might just as well remove it and use the machine as a 'half-top', connected to an external monitor. A Pentium II with 32MB of RAM and sound should, at first glance, be a reasonable system for retro games, but the onboard graphics may limit that. Since it has USB, serial, parallel, floppy, and CDROM, it could be a useful way to bridge between even older systems, and modern ones for file transfer.
The "plastic thingy" looks like to be the top of a coil. Look over all inductors, one may be open. You can glue it back with cyanacrylate. edit: ruclips.net/video/Tejc6r0K6A4/видео.html Top right: L800! The input filtering choke. There it goes! Anyway, isn't harmful if it's missing...
@@RetroSpector78 considering this is a japanese product from ages ago they are probably all JIS and you got lucky with the rest, they only strip when they are stuck and sufficient force is applied with the wrong screwdriver.
@@alphadog6970 you can see from the other closeups that all of them are philips screws. you rarely see small JIS screws in laptops, even the ones coming from Japan like this toshiba.
The screw may have lost its chemical properties by being too close to the processor and heatsink, generating a lot of heat and it ended up getting too hot where it couldn't stand it and started to soften. *** O parafuso pode ter perdido suas propriedades químicas por estar próximo demais do processor e do dissipador, gerando muito calor e ele acabou esquentando demasiadamente onde o mesmo não suportou e começou a amolecer.
thats one gross laptop. I have a ibm with a passive display and ive wonder if the screen itself could be swapped out. But i had doubts how universal the connectors are. as a last resort on the screw you might try a power drill with a small bit in it. Ive found it can bite into the screw and move it. Once it breaks the locktight it comes easy. another tactic with those glued covers heat up with hot air and then peel. You can find examples of this when guys are removing the badges from cases to retro bright them.
Think in most cases it will be a different connector. If you're lucky the motherboard might accept both options but depends on the model. Not sure if I'm going to try and do something with the broken screw. Very close to the CPU :)
Oh my gosh, this computer was in horrible shape! And this computer clearly wasn't designed to be serviced, no technician would want to go through all this much work to fully disassemble a machine, the laybor charge alone to do all this would be at least 500 dollars minus new parts!
It's actually the fact that you could fully disassemble the machine to its tiniest bits that defines its serviceability. While being quite labour-intensive, on those old laptops you could replace almost everything. Maybe a technician would have spent a couple of hours to replace a component because it was buried inside the machine, but we also have to remember that the cost of the laptop featured in this video would easily break the 3'000$ barrier in its years, and that with a passive matrix screen. With active matrix you were easily into the 4-5'000$ territory, if not even more. With a laptop costing that much, in perspective a 500$ bill for technician labour is not that much. That was the norm with 90ies laptops. Today's laptops, where often not only RAM and CPU but even the SSD is soldered on the mainboard, while being far simpler buildwise they're are also far less serviceable. And as they're quite cheap, at least the low/midrange models, they get thrown away even for issues that could be easily repaired, like a dead battery that today often is not user replaceable as you have to disassemble the machine to reach it.
"components inside even decided to detach themselves in the hopes of abandoning ship" 😆
You know what is crazy? To think that every single one of those components had to have been put in at some point when the laptop was manufactured. I've never seen so many parts in a laptop or ever really thought about it. Thanks for the great video!
The thing that was flying around inside was the ferrite housing of the little inductor right beside the power connector as can be seen at 14:14 in the top right corner.
Good eye! :)
Nice catch ! Thx.
L800.
I didn’t see _where_ it came from, but that was my guess too. The dot was a giveaway. :-)
I like the tear-down/restoration angle. Fun. I’m just glad you’re the one putting it all back together.
Both the leakage and the teardown itself were extensive, kudos to you! I don't picture myself entirely disassembling a laptop because it probably wouldn't go back together due to me being slack & probably careless.
I absolutely love this era of Satellite laptops, especially my 335CDT. I had the same problem with corrosion from the Varta battery on a Pro 460CDT that I learned to take apart, even in the connector to the motherboard, but luckily the leak wasn't as bad as yours.
The hard drive on my 400cdT died and i am currently running dos off a 3.5inch floppy Great word and retro game machine!
You can keep the glued plastic covers and stickers intact when you you use a heatgun with low heat and peel them off with a needle or something similar. Nice Video as always.
Thank you! This was so useful for me while repairing my 335CDS! You are a lifesaver.
I made up a patch cable that plugs into the parallel port to reset password (think it was for the bios), works on quite a few models, needless to say it's sat unused in my parts bin for years. A nice, robustly built, range of laptops - the Librettos of the same (slightly younger) era were very similar, lots of pcmcia accessories too.
i made the same patch cable more modern toshibas use the same cable
@@pamparitas Exactly, I'm holding on to it in the off chance I have a use for it. If I threw it, then discovered I needed another one - it would really p**s me off🙂
To remove that screw, on the CPU assembly you can try the following:
1. place the flat side of a rubber band into the stripped screw hole (similar to this: ruclips.net/video/jeULcDESsUY/видео.html) or
2. if you have a modular screw driver set, super glue one of the tips into the stripped screw
Hope this helps. Look forward to seeing the part where you can this stuff.
One more question: are you going to see if you can't replace that horrible LCD screen with something else?
Might give that a try. Don't think you can replace the screen so easily. But have a couple of other Toshiba CDT models so will take a look.
@@RetroSpector78 if those fail, you’ll have to get the dremel out I guess. And make it compatible for a flat head screwdriver.
I’ve enjoyed this video very much. I’ve got a Toshiba 486DX4-75 laptop lying around in a container, also disassembled. And also with the same kind of dreadful display. On mine the PSU is built in and capacitors need to be replaced. Also in the screen, so that’s quite the challenge. We’ll see how it goes!
The three batteries aren’t particularly needed to be able to boot it. Although, it might be very interesting to at least replace the CMOS battery with a double CR2032 battery and a diode. That’s what I’m doing on mine. The rest really aren’t interesting to preserve. The battery for powering the laptop can easily be removed from its cover/cage, so the laptop will be a bit lighter in weight.
Good luck on your project!
@@RetroSpector78 Gorilla glue or baking soda with super glue might help, adding a little bit between a spare screwdriver should expand the adhesive and fill the worn away thread to get a good grip again.
@@Inject0r I got a couple of those Toshiba 486 laptops as well. The thing I’m mostly stuck on right now is that the floppy drive uses a rubber belt for the drive spindle - and of course it’s toast. Not sure how easy it’ll be to find a replacement. :-/ I haven’t looked yet though. It’s halfway disassembled waiting for someday.
I was thinking of the glue too. Also soldering the tip of a screwdriver on the screw.
4:04 - That is due to the hard drive heads being stuck to the platters, and as the spindle motor has very little torque it can't overcome the head's friction force and spin up the disks. Removing the drive from the laptop subjects it to vibrations and small hits, that are enough to make the platters move a bit, freeing up the heads and finally making the drive to be able to spin again.
I remember when these were new. God, I am old!
I’ve had similar experiences with small screws. Sometimes you do everything right and the head still strips out.
It’s possible that was a cheap screw. It’s also possible that someone else has been inside this laptop and they started stripping the screw head. Once those screws start to strip, it can be very hard to keep it from happening even if you realize you were using the wrong driver and then go back and get the correct one.
As a last resort, I’ve dremmeled a slot into screws to get them out. Not sure there’s enough room in your case to try that. And this is risky - you get metal bits everywhere, you risk damaging the screw head (and possibly making things worse), and you’ll probably have to find a replacement screw.
Yeah ... thought about it, but too risky. Perhaps when I'm done with it and have no more use for it.
Being a Toshiba laptop these screws can be SJIS which are like Phillips but-not-quite. I usually have no problems unscrewing them with Phillips but the cam is different. Usually SJIS screws are marked with a dot in the head though.
Nice video in the new year. I wish you all the best ..
Thank you! You too!. And a happy new year !
Couldn't believe it when i saw your title i have one and it's boxed and still factory sealed
wow ... that's pretty cool.
Should make a video opening it up or something. The internal batteries are just going to leak if they haven't already potentially damaging it.
the screw stuck in the aluminum heatsink is likely corroded in place. it looks like there has been some liquid in the laptop so that screw will be welded in place with white corrosion.
Nice video. Can't wait for the cleaning up 👍😃
Should drop soon ...
Regarding that screw, I found it fairly common for screws located neat major heat sources become baked to threads, especially when screw glure was used (Toshiba uses stronger red glue while most of manufacturers stick to blue one). I'd recommend hitting the screw through a screwdriver with a hammer couple of times (supporting it firmly from the other side of course). It may break some baking inside; I call this technique 'negitiations' :)
Was not aware of that. Thx for the info.
I seen a better idea on RUclips some days ago, melt some solder in the top of the screw, when it's filled the hole stick into a right bit and wait a bit to cool down, and voila you can untight the screw again.
Regards Mark
i've had some success with a small torx bit to get screws like that out. good video!
Tried that but unfortunately it's too far gone now to do anything with it
Just get a #2 phillips for that screw, I often avoid those little kits with changeable bits unless I'm working on something with small torx or flathead screws. If you are out looking for a few decent screw drivers avoid plated ones and look for ones with blackened tips.
That Toshiba bootscreen brings up some memories from my first internship circa 2002. I had to use one of those (or similar model) running Windows 95 to do some basic AutoCAD drafting on. It was slow and not ideal for the task.
Think this is my only Pentium 2 based Toshiba. All others are first gen Pentium (MMX) class. too bad for the screen.
That bit that was jiggleing inside is the ferrite cap of the coil on top right corner 13:48. You can super glue it and it will work just fine.
Hi Sir, Nice teardown video! Can you tell the method that you use to know wich screw goes were? I got all confused when I saw the huge pile of parts at the end. I have the problem of messing up with the screws when disassembling things and usually they are not so many like in this video.
Thanks!
I have a dozen of awesome laptops from 1995-1999 era but they all have the same issue: terrible displays.
For this reason I stopped collecting them, but it's a real shame, would be cool if it were possible replace them with some new ones, as for old handheld consoles, but I guess this is pretty much impossible due to the vastity of sizes and different/proprietary connectors they have 😕
Think most of them can't be easily converted to an active TFT. You can always mount it under an external monitor and have a cool little retro setup :)
@@RetroSpector78 yes sure, but this somehow defeats the whole laptop thing purpose because you probably also want an external mouse and keyboard to be more comfortable and at this point you better use directly a midi tower with proper video/sound cards and everything 😅
The TFT screens actually aren’t too bad. You just have to find a model that is using TFT (active matrix) instead of STN (passive matrix). The latter aren’t worth the glass they’re adhered to.
Another great video! I love the early Toshiba laptops, I now have two.
With Phillips head screws, they are designed to be put in with a machine, when it reaches a certain torque level the bit is designed to ride up and out of the screw, so if you need to apply more torque to remove the screw the bit will try to ride up and out and strip the screw head.
The screws may actually be J.I.S screws ( Japanese Industrial Standard) even if they are not, get yourself a set of J.I.S Screw Drivers from E-bay they will fit much better.
Here is the description from E-bay,
Premium JIS-4 JIS Screwdriver Set Japanese Industrial Standard Drivers New
The Phillips screw drivers are more pointed on the end and the J.I.S screw drivers are more blunt on the end, if you have some bit sets you may already have some.
Regards, Dave.
How did you keep track of which size screw goes where? Seeing the sorted stack of screws at the end seems like a nightmare for putting it back together later on.
Also, use a rubber band to squish it between your screwdriver and the stripped screw. Should help to remove it.
Stay tuned for the next video ... Kept track of all sizes and created a piece of paper with some notes. Later on (when everything was dissembled) I did found a service manual that had detailed pictures with screw sizes for about 50% of the screw locations :)
@@RetroSpector78 Weird the manual forgot to document the other 50% lol
Having its cousin, the Toshiba Satellite Pro 4010CDT (266 MHz instead of 233 MHz and TFT instead of DSTN), it is a pretty capable laptop for DOS gaming. Besides that, its OPL3-SA sound chipset is pretty good as well.
If I remember well, I have another one (440CDT) who has a dead motherboard due to similar corrosion issues. 😂
Also have a couple of CDT laptops... indeed much better. That's why I tried experimenting with this one. If it goes to hell not much is lost :)
I second the DOS gaming comment. I had one of these laptops back in the day and it was amazing to have both the floppy and cd rom built in! Ran many dos cdrom games flawlessly. Good to see that the LCD is just as bad as I remember it was....
On the topic of the fan, my Presario AMD k6-2 laptop's fan only spins when the battery is charging. Doesn't spin when the battery is removed or it's running from battery. Could be something like that.
will try to put some load on it ... both terminals are measuring 5V so most likely hooked up to a transistor to switch it on/off.
12:38: That is no plastic part, that is ferrite and the top of an inductor or transformer. And at 13:35 you can see the rest of the inductor on the top right just below the power input socket.
Good eye! Hopefully he reads this comment and notices!
Hey those are good laptops. I supported them for many years in a corporate environment, not the best but damn they gave there best over the years. Still have two of them and still works :)
I'm not so brave guessing how to disassemble a laptop, having some bad experience in breaking parts in the process, so I always try to search for a service manual. It can be easily found for this model, in the case of Toshiba it is named "Field replaceable unit documentation". It's terse, but it contains disassembly photos.
Found it after I created the cover photo with all of the components sitting on my desk :) Next time I'll google first :) But it was pretty straightforward. Hope the assembly process will go well and I don't forget the component that needs to be put in in step 3 when I'm at step 78 :)
@@RetroSpector78 You'll just need to watch your video in reverse. Easy-peasy, isn't it? 😛
4:00 ide hdd devices sometimes stuck with dust in the conector and by unplugging and plug-in again usually does work again, if not a bit of cleaning helps.
Why did the USB port on the back have a little door when no other port did?
Are these supposed to work without those backup batteries? I have a similar notebook (does not work), I only took out the 2 green batteries and stopped the troubleshooting process until I gain more courage. And this video did not help with that, seeing all those screws and parts :D
It does start and operate correctly. Obviously you lose cmos settings and get the F1 warning. Most likely sleep / resume will not work properly but basic functions seem ok.
Toshiba laptops used to be _everywhere._ Now, they don't even make them any more.
16:00 I got a screw extractor set on Amazon recently for a similar issue of restoring an IBM 380ED. The one I got was a lot worse and I managed to remove it fairly easily.
Tried the rubber band technique but didn’t work. Screw is too far gone I think. What set did you end up getting ?
What screwdriver/bit were you using? They are not all equal especially with Phillips and similar screws. I see a lot of videos on RUclips with no name drivers and bits and that just isn’t a good idea. You need to go with really nice screwdrivers like Wiha or Vessel.
It was an ifixit bit-set. Tried both PH1 and PH0 on this laptop. There was little difference between the 2. Was told to alway try with the biggest option. If it doesn't fit take 1 size smaller. They were all philips screws on this laptop. M2.5 and M2.
I have a flathead that I sharpened to help with my glasses and that works for removing stripped screws of multiple types
Think it's too far gone now to do anything with it ... Might try the rubber band technique. Don't really feel like drilling it so close to the CPU.
Hey there. Just wanted to add while using this vid to help me teardown a 4010CDT on that cpu heatsink. Same thing happened to me on hole labelled #5, and looking at the screws that did come out you can see the remains of what was suredly a "lock-tight" type of something on the ends. So basically IMO they just choose a bad option for the screw type, whether a bigger surface or change to Torx IDK but they are just simply stubborn.
I WOULD recommend doing it though as of course the original heat pad (btw I didn't know they went back that far) on mine, while still probably ok-ish, seemed a bit tired and indeed tore apart a bit upon removel. Not crumble just tore easy.
Interesting block as it appears to be set to accept a dual processor setup underneat but not sure. I was hoping you had some tips on possible upgrades as in maybe where to add a heatsink. I'm gonna throw a couple here and there where possible after a little research. IDK if there are VRM's on these, doubt it, probably on the chip graphics but there might be something.
btw how cool is that tiny fan, I love those things and have collected a few. They are actually fantastic for little DIY projects.
Thanks for video.
Much better made than my more modern toshiba.
Never opened up a new laptop ... in general don't really like laptops cause they are annoying to deal with, difficult to repair, and easy to screw up.
I think that plastic is cover for an inductor somewhere on the mobo.
i have a similar one that is very slow. would you recommend changng the hard drive with a solid state disk?
That little loose pice of plastic is from an inductor on the motherboard. I saw its in the top right in the power arena.
This Toshiba is indeed in touch with tomorrow, at least from it's point of view😄
Yes! Finally a new video :)
Hasn't been that long right ? :)
For removing upper laptop part You don't need to work in tight space - after removing keyboard You need just pull up white plastic cover from holes in case to access connectors.. 😉
That black broken part inside is part of ferrite core. @ 16:30 right upper side of video, near connector is square ferrite core without ferrite cover part and all internals is visible..
Putting this laptop into its parts is quite like a dream, try the same with an actual modell i.e. from Acer or Asus... DSTN Screens are really horrible, I don´t think there will ever be a kind of nostalgia as we are experiencing to some extend with the CRTs for retro computers or consoles, but maybe, even the late 90s laptops gain their "retro"-fame soon as some models from the early 90s already have...You know, a system older than roundabout 25 years is already called "retro", a few years younger models are just considered to be "old", "outdated" or , worse, just "trash"...
Have a couple of thosiba's with TFT screens and it is indeed a world of difference. I do think these Toshiba's have this iconic purple look and feel that contributes to its retro factor. Not really a laptop fan as they are difficult to work with and repair. As this was a free hand-me-down I figured what the hell... lets just dump in and disassemble it completely.
Interesting how they got so many adjectives into that single "DSTN" abbreviation!
I've disassembled laptops but never to this extent.
I can highly recommend it :)
What's the production year of fhis laptop?😮
Drill it out! We need to see the CPU!
What do you do with all your old projects?
Sell them?
Give them away?
What?
Love the "cosmetically challenged" phrase.
Poor laptop toshiba! Great to see it fixing
En sevdiğim laptop 😍
That is not your laptop, that is our laptop :D
Toshibas laptops from this era always have this batteries (and other brands as well). First order of business should be to always remove this batteries as soon as possible.
I actually had one of these maybe 10-13 years ago.. i used it with my first gen MagicJack(VOIP) phone device. Had to use Windows ME. on it. Could NOT get XP to run and my win 98 SE refused to work with the usb port. The laptop battery lasted a whole 8 minutes or so. :D
my friend gave me the same thing where can i get a power supply
Ah, the question of what to do with old laptops... If the horrible screen can't be replaced with one using a superior display technology, might just as well remove it and use the machine as a 'half-top', connected to an external monitor. A Pentium II with 32MB of RAM and sound should, at first glance, be a reasonable system for retro games, but the onboard graphics may limit that. Since it has USB, serial, parallel, floppy, and CDROM, it could be a useful way to bridge between even older systems, and modern ones for file transfer.
Merci beaucoup pour cette belle vidéo !
7:55 I prefer to use a guitar pick to open the plastic covers. :)
great video.. thanks..
Glad you liked it.
Why is there windows 95 on it?
The "plastic thingy" looks like to be the top of a coil. Look over all inductors, one may be open. You can glue it back with cyanacrylate.
edit: ruclips.net/video/Tejc6r0K6A4/видео.html
Top right: L800!
The input filtering choke. There it goes!
Anyway, isn't harmful if it's missing...
Thats a JIS screw not a phillips thats why you stripped it.
Why would you think that and why would that one be the only JIS screw on the laptop ?
@@RetroSpector78 considering this is a japanese product from ages ago they are probably all JIS and you got lucky with the rest, they only strip when they are stuck and sufficient force is applied with the wrong screwdriver.
@@alphadog6970 you can see from the other closeups that all of them are philips screws. you rarely see small JIS screws in laptops, even the ones coming from Japan like this toshiba.
@@RetroSpector78 no idea then
Hopefully you will figure it out
This laptop is good for running old software!
Stupendo!
I have one of thse and it still runs!
Force a torx bit into the screw and it will get it out
The screw may have lost its chemical properties by being too close to the processor and heatsink, generating a lot of heat and it ended up getting too hot where it couldn't stand it and started to soften.
***
O parafuso pode ter perdido suas propriedades químicas por estar próximo demais do processor e do dissipador, gerando muito calor e ele acabou esquentando demasiadamente onde o mesmo não suportou e começou a amolecer.
Elastic band on the screw head with pressure, itll come off.
Put some electrical tepe on the screwdrivers head. 2nd put some glue on the screw put the screwdriver then gently unscrew.
A rubber band would help you remove that screw.
Tried it, but didn’t work.
@@RetroSpector78 I didn't realise. From your video it appeared you hadn't tried anything.
Varta is a brand, not a battery type.
Might have been posi screws
Highly unlikely. All other screws where Philips, even the same opposing screw on the heatsink.
thats one gross laptop. I have a ibm with a passive display and ive wonder if the screen itself could be swapped out. But i had doubts how universal the connectors are.
as a last resort on the screw you might try a power drill with a small bit in it. Ive found it can bite into the screw and move it. Once it breaks the locktight it comes easy.
another tactic with those glued covers heat up with hot air and then peel. You can find examples of this when guys are removing the badges from cases to retro bright them.
Think in most cases it will be a different connector. If you're lucky the motherboard might accept both options but depends on the model. Not sure if I'm going to try and do something with the broken screw. Very close to the CPU :)
Theres always that one screw that gives you a hard time.
A sticker that's thick is called a thicker.
Rubberpand trick will get your screw up!
Oh my gosh, this computer was in horrible shape! And this computer clearly wasn't designed to be serviced, no technician would want to go through all this much work to fully disassemble a machine, the laybor charge alone to do all this would be at least 500 dollars minus new parts!
It's actually the fact that you could fully disassemble the machine to its tiniest bits that defines its serviceability. While being quite labour-intensive, on those old laptops you could replace almost everything. Maybe a technician would have spent a couple of hours to replace a component because it was buried inside the machine, but we also have to remember that the cost of the laptop featured in this video would easily break the 3'000$ barrier in its years, and that with a passive matrix screen. With active matrix you were easily into the 4-5'000$ territory, if not even more. With a laptop costing that much, in perspective a 500$ bill for technician labour is not that much. That was the norm with 90ies laptops.
Today's laptops, where often not only RAM and CPU but even the SSD is soldered on the mainboard, while being far simpler buildwise they're are also far less serviceable. And as they're quite cheap, at least the low/midrange models, they get thrown away even for issues that could be easily repaired, like a dead battery that today often is not user replaceable as you have to disassemble the machine to reach it.
Philips bits in Pozidrive screws suck ;-)
All of the screws in this laptop where Philips so it would be really strange to have a single pozidrive screw there :)
needs a new lcd screen
я в шоке с системы охлаждения как такой мелкий вентилятор мог что- то охладить