"Just look at it!" I love your enthusiasm and honesty. I also like that you're not a gear-head. You see, feel, and acknowledge things the experts often forget to mention. Good vid!
Consider purchasing adjustable front control arms and resetting the castor back to as close to stock as you can. Even a small lift can through your castor off enough to cause the problem.
Welcome to the world of Jeep owners. All of the problems that you are explaining are related to the tire size. Whenever you go to a larger tire size, you have to regear any vehicle. It's not just specific to Jeeps. Without regearing it hard on your drive train. It will cost you more in repairs. As you have discovered, it costs you more in fuel. As far as the handling, that has to do with the tire size also. Larger tires get more traction. All roads have grooves worn into then due to usage. The more traffic, the more pronounced the grooves. That's why your Jeep wants to pull to a certain direction. I love your enthusiasm. These are why owning a Jeep so great.
Yep, I had the same problem with this lift, and the added weight of the tires. JK's have a lot of steering issues, and the large heavy tires make it worst. I finally sold it and found a great deal on a used JL with 4cyl Turbo. Love it.....and Jeep fixed some of the issues. I wasn't impressed with the Terra Flex, and I am going to try the Metal Cloak Game Changer with the 6-pack shocks.
Would love to have an update on your Metal Cloak Game Changer w/6-pack shocks. Sitting here with my shopping cart on Metal Cloak ready to order the same lift.
First off, great video.👍 I like hearing people’s personal experiences after they made changes to their Jeep. Good information.👍 Second, how do you do that with your pointing finger? I try to bend my finger but I can’t. I think God blessed you with a special ability to tickle girls.😁
Fighting the road is true for all vehicles Specially when you dial your shocks to hard. There would be no give away from opposite side (the side of the road that’s is higher), and that side will tilt the car. When the car tilted slightly, there would be a horizontal force vector, that pushes the car to the other side You can try (just try) the same road with an asymmetric shock dial: dial the shock on the higher side of the road to softest and dial the shock on the opposite side to hardest. You’ll realize the steering wheel is not as stubborn as it used to be. That’s what some luxury vehicles do. Adjust shocks independently according to road condition Happy wheeling, and great video Many thanks
If fighting the wheel gets really bad you could look in new tire rods and ball joints I had to get new ones on my JK when I got it lifted. It had play before and then after it was bad bad and that was due to the looseness from the wear on the tire rods a ball joints
Your first point is common, it is just physics. You do this on regular passenger cars with small wheels... you just don’t notice it. Control arms/track bar etc... will minimize the affect of bigger tires. Gas mileage loss is logical effect as well... pushing more weight & larger rotational mass. Regearing can help.
Nice! What size tires do you have?? I just sold my 33” mudding tires for some 35” BFG K02’s and have the 2.5” lift kit as well. I also have a hard time on uneven roads so I’m hoping the new tires will be a little better since they’re not as wide. We will see 🙏🏻🤞🏻
Correct! These are 35”s. I did not regear and have a 3.21 front/rear axle ratio. I haven’t regeared and have not experienced any changes except loss of power; but it’s completely driveable!
regearing is needed when you add bigger tires. the lift itself doesn't add resistance, heavy tires + steel rims does. I'm getting the same setup as you, 2,5 tera + 33 inches, and I will not regear.
A stock Jeep Wrangler tires are 29”,30” going to 33 won’t require a regear in new jeep JLs the standard gear ratio is 3.45 you can opt for a 3.73 and rubicon’s are 4.1 Generally 35” tires 4.56 gears, 37” 4.88, larger than 37” 5.13 or 5.38 but of course this comes down to how you drive tire and wheel weight weight of accessories bumpers winch roof tent etc so you can run 33s with no regear but if your rig gets heavy or you like more zip when you touch the pedal then think about a regear
when you get a lift you dont need to regear, he doesnt know what hes saying, i have 2.5 inch lift and 33s and it drives just fine, im actually also looking at getting ko2s
Also, WIDE tires on ur Jeep might not fit into the indentations in many roads, thus the jeep rides the edges of the indents and wants to come out of them.
Hey man! Honestly.. if you're budgeting then it's a good option. But if I were to go back, I would do a little more research on some other kits! Also, I appreciate that bro - thank you!
I have a teraflex 2.5 and i honestly love it, its a great price and great handling with great ride quality, what some people complain about including this guy is that everytime you put a lift on no matter what lift your ride and drive quality will most likely go down the higher the lift, hes also running 35s and 35s make jeep jks drive like shit.
Hi Frank! I'm running the Teraflex 2.5 with 9550 VSS Shocks. Ahhh - I didn't think about that at all! I'm going to look a little more into it. Eventually I'd like to lift somewhere in between 4-6 inches so now I need to see how much everything will cost. I might need to start selling things on Craigslist lol. Not sure if you've upgraded your control arms or track bar before. But is it preferred to get one over the other?
@@SuperCoolGamerGuy Noted - thank you! Since I'm thinking about a larger lift (in the future) I most likely will just stick it out to avoid paying anything more. It's not HORRIBLE, but it's definitely noticeable
I was doing 10 mpg when I Did my lift fox I was happy. Till I took it to a mechanic near my house to do some upgrades and he end up swapping must of my parts I had to get a new lift I when with AEV. To me it sucks
The thing with the car following the "tilting" of the road surface hasn't anything to do with the lift itself. The suspension setup (geometry) is off after lifting it and needs to be re-adjusted.
Tachometer. You regear your gas mileage drops. Unsprung weight (anything below your springs) like bigger tires is one of the biggest reasons for lower gas mileage. If you can get a bigger tire and wheel that's less weight than the previous wheel and tire setup then that will help. But the jeep isn't very aerodynamic so making it taller is going to drop fuel economy and make it more sustainable to side wind effects. I didn't hear you say anything about 4 wheelin so it sounds like your trying to make a horse and buggy into a Cadillac. Also let some air out of your tires and you'll notice much less of a bumpy ride.
People don’t seem to realize that a Jeep isn’t a car and does not drive like one. I have owned more Jeeps than any other company and I have never had any issues.
Correct sir! I’ve always loved the aesthetic look of Jeeps and the vast amounts of customization to match a persons personality. Even though Jeeps don’t drive like a regular car, it’s been an adjustment but overall very happy with purchase/mods :)
Every kifted vehicle I've owned or driven has the same issues you've mentioned, regardless of brand of lift, etc. Physics is physics. OEM components, especially worn components built for stock tires, stock lift height are going to exacerbate issues.
Bro, you might want to do some more research or get a different source of info. You dont have to weld anything with a legit lift kit. I lifted my JLU Sport using the Teraflex ST3 3.5. Zero welding. Before then I had never installed a lift kit. I probably at some point will need to swap out my drive shafts since I'm sure the angles are all jacked there. As far as regearing, you're not getting into regearing until you're talking about larger tires...and even that's not until you get to 35s or above. That's a whole other conversation.
"Just look at it!" I love your enthusiasm and honesty. I also like that you're not a gear-head. You see, feel, and acknowledge things the experts often forget to mention. Good vid!
Consider purchasing adjustable front control arms and resetting the castor back to as close to stock as you can. Even a small lift can through your castor off enough to cause the problem.
Welcome to the world of Jeep owners. All of the problems that you are explaining are related to the tire size. Whenever you go to a larger tire size, you have to regear any vehicle. It's not just specific to Jeeps. Without regearing it hard on your drive train. It will cost you more in repairs. As you have discovered, it costs you more in fuel. As far as the handling, that has to do with the tire size also. Larger tires get more traction. All roads have grooves worn into then due to usage. The more traffic, the more pronounced the grooves. That's why your Jeep wants to pull to a certain direction. I love your enthusiasm. These are why owning a Jeep so great.
Yep, I had the same problem with this lift, and the added weight of the tires. JK's have a lot of steering issues, and the large heavy tires make it worst. I finally sold it and found a great deal on a used JL with 4cyl Turbo. Love it.....and Jeep fixed some of the issues. I wasn't impressed with the Terra Flex, and I am going to try the Metal Cloak Game Changer with the 6-pack shocks.
I couldn't agree more with you brother lol. BTW CONGRATS on the JL!
How are you liking it? More specifically.. how are you liking the 4cyl Turbo?
Would love to have an update on your Metal Cloak Game Changer w/6-pack shocks. Sitting here with my shopping cart on Metal Cloak ready to order the same lift.
First off, great video.👍
I like hearing people’s personal experiences after they made changes to their Jeep.
Good information.👍
Second, how do you do that with your pointing finger?
I try to bend my finger but I can’t.
I think God blessed you with a special ability to tickle girls.😁
hahaha
Fighting the road is true for all vehicles
Specially when you dial your shocks to hard. There would be no give away from opposite side (the side of the road that’s is higher), and that side will tilt the car.
When the car tilted slightly, there would be a horizontal force vector, that pushes the car to the other side
You can try (just try) the same road with an asymmetric shock dial: dial the shock on the higher side of the road to softest and dial the shock on the opposite side to hardest.
You’ll realize the steering wheel is not as stubborn as it used to be.
That’s what some luxury vehicles do. Adjust shocks independently according to road condition
Happy wheeling, and great video
Many thanks
If fighting the wheel gets really bad you could look in new tire rods and ball joints I had to get new ones on my JK when I got it lifted. It had play before and then after it was bad bad and that was due to the looseness from the wear on the tire rods a ball joints
Your first point is common, it is just physics. You do this on regular passenger cars with small wheels... you just don’t notice it. Control arms/track bar etc... will minimize the affect of bigger tires.
Gas mileage loss is logical effect as well... pushing more weight & larger rotational mass. Regearing can help.
buddy has no idea what hes talking about and its hilarious
35” tires and re gearing equals about 12.5-13 mpg.
Get a wheel alignment and have wheels balanced this should help
Awesome video bro. Well done,and entertaining. 😎
Nice! What size tires do you have?? I just sold my 33” mudding tires for some 35” BFG K02’s and have the 2.5” lift kit as well. I also have a hard time on uneven roads so I’m hoping the new tires will be a little better since they’re not as wide. We will see 🙏🏻🤞🏻
This looks like 35”. I am seriously thinking of getting a 2.5” lift with 33” K02 tires. Do I need to regear it?
Correct!
These are 35”s. I did not regear and have a 3.21 front/rear axle ratio.
I haven’t regeared and have not experienced any changes except loss of power; but it’s completely driveable!
regearing is needed when you add bigger tires. the lift itself doesn't add resistance, heavy tires + steel rims does. I'm getting the same setup as you, 2,5 tera + 33 inches, and I will not regear.
A stock Jeep Wrangler tires are 29”,30” going to 33 won’t require a regear in new jeep JLs the standard gear ratio is 3.45 you can opt for a 3.73 and rubicon’s are 4.1
Generally 35” tires 4.56 gears, 37” 4.88, larger than 37” 5.13 or 5.38 but of course this comes down to how you drive tire and wheel weight weight of accessories bumpers winch roof tent etc so you can run 33s with no regear but if your rig gets heavy or you like more zip when you touch the pedal then think about a regear
when you get a lift you dont need to regear, he doesnt know what hes saying, i have 2.5 inch lift and 33s and it drives just fine, im actually also looking at getting ko2s
Also, WIDE tires on ur Jeep might not fit into the indentations in many roads, thus the jeep rides the edges of the indents and wants to come out of them.
How do you like the Tetraflex 2.5 would you recommend it or should I look to buy something a little more complete?.Btw great vid👍🏼
Hey man!
Honestly.. if you're budgeting then it's a good option. But if I were to go back, I would do a little more research on some other kits!
Also, I appreciate that bro - thank you!
I have a teraflex 2.5 and i honestly love it, its a great price and great handling with great ride quality, what some people complain about including this guy is that everytime you put a lift on no matter what lift your ride and drive quality will most likely go down the higher the lift, hes also running 35s and 35s make jeep jks drive like shit.
Are you running just the basic 2.5 teraflex lift? Have you thought about upgrading control arms, upgrading track bar to improve handling?
Awesome looking Jeep BTW
Hi Frank!
I'm running the Teraflex 2.5 with 9550 VSS Shocks. Ahhh - I didn't think about that at all!
I'm going to look a little more into it. Eventually I'd like to lift somewhere in between 4-6 inches so now I need to see how much everything will cost. I might need to start selling things on Craigslist lol.
Not sure if you've upgraded your control arms or track bar before. But is it preferred to get one over the other?
Haha thank you!! I appreciate it brother!
@@TyTyBoro usually an adjustable track bar should help with the wheel turning like that
@@SuperCoolGamerGuy Noted - thank you!
Since I'm thinking about a larger lift (in the future) I most likely will just stick it out to avoid paying anything more.
It's not HORRIBLE, but it's definitely noticeable
I was doing 10 mpg when I Did my lift fox I was happy. Till I took it to a mechanic near my house to do some upgrades and he end up swapping must of my parts I had to get a new lift I when with AEV. To me it sucks
The thing with the car following the "tilting" of the road surface hasn't anything to do with the lift itself. The suspension setup (geometry) is off after lifting it and needs to be re-adjusted.
Tachometer. You regear your gas mileage drops. Unsprung weight (anything below your springs) like bigger tires is one of the biggest reasons for lower gas mileage. If you can get a bigger tire and wheel that's less weight than the previous wheel and tire setup then that will help. But the jeep isn't very aerodynamic so making it taller is going to drop fuel economy and make it more sustainable to side wind effects. I didn't hear you say anything about 4 wheelin so it sounds like your trying to make a horse and buggy into a Cadillac. Also let some air out of your tires and you'll notice much less of a bumpy ride.
People don’t seem to realize that a Jeep isn’t a car and does not drive like one. I have owned more Jeeps than any other company and I have never had any issues.
Correct sir! I’ve always loved the aesthetic look of Jeeps and the vast amounts of customization to match a persons personality.
Even though Jeeps don’t drive like a regular car, it’s been an adjustment but overall very happy with purchase/mods :)
WHEN THERE IS A SNOWSTORM IM OUT IN A BLIZZARD HAVING FUN DRIVING MY RUBICON😜😜😜😜😜
Dude keeps saying he has a 1 1/2” lift 🤦🏼♂️
Yeah, it sounds like he's real familiar with the modifications he has done to his jeep. Lol
The lift has nothing to do with the re-gearing, it all depends on the tire diameter.
Love the color
Have you tried chalk testing your tires to get the proper psi? That'll help your tire tracking issues. Your psi is probably too high.
Fighting the road as you call it is because you went with wider tires than factory
Every one has to steer into the tilt of the road. You are driving a 4×4 not a road rally car.
He keeps saying it's a 1.5in lift but titled 2.5 ? Which is it?
Does your brake pedal shakes when you hit a put holes?
It’s the lift if you want factor ride quality going to have to spend a little extra on a lift
What year is your jk?
Every kifted vehicle I've owned or driven has the same issues you've mentioned, regardless of brand of lift, etc. Physics is physics. OEM components, especially worn components built for stock tires, stock lift height are going to exacerbate issues.
Man how hard is it to press like guys come on help a brother out
Just get yourself some 3.3 falcon shocks and slap it on three
Hey Carlos, I never thought about adding shocks. That definitely seems like a possibility, especially seems like a cheaper option as well Thanks!
The lift has nothing to do with gas mileage, it's the tires.
SUBBED
It’s called gravity 😂😂 it’s gonna pull you down hill lmao plus it’s a solid front axle
Bought the wrong vehicle to save money 😂
😂
Ty so jeep no have stick ty
Yooo! Yes sir my jeep is a stick shift!
Bro, you might want to do some more research or get a different source of info. You dont have to weld anything with a legit lift kit. I lifted my JLU Sport using the Teraflex ST3 3.5. Zero welding. Before then I had never installed a lift kit. I probably at some point will need to swap out my drive shafts since I'm sure the angles are all jacked there. As far as regearing, you're not getting into regearing until you're talking about larger tires...and even that's not until you get to 35s or above. That's a whole other conversation.