How to Install Stair Treads & Risers: Pro Techniques
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2024
- In this video we install hardwood treads and risers on a site built staircase. I show you how to measure, cut, and install the risers and treads. Lots of tips and tricks to get perfect, professional results in this video. Hope you enjoy.
Collins Tread Gauges - amzn.to/3UXE61D
Festool 564626 HKC 55 Cordless Track Saw PLUS FSK by Festool - amzn.to/40z0NtZ
00:00 - Stair Building: Risers and Treads
01:09 - Prep Work : Risers and Treads
03:48 - Collins Tread Gauge for Measuring Risers & Treads
04:38 - Measure Riser Length with Tread Gauge
05:14 - Cutting Riser to Length with Festool HKC Track Saw
08:47 - Nail the Risers In Place
16:48 - Batch Cutting Treads
19:07 - Test Fit the Tread
19:39 - Drill Pilot Holes in the Riser
20:47 - Tread Installation
24:21 - Screw Through the Riser into the Tread
25:15 - Outro
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Хобби
I Can't thank you enough for posting this. Great video
I got my Collins tread gauges just last November like you recommended, I waited for it to redo the stair for a client. My helper said we didn't need to wait cuz he new a guy he help got some at HD. When we where done with the job I asked him if they did the stairs like I did, he said "no way, this is way too nicer and tighter lines." I told him I kinda knew that, (me all proud), cuz he didn't have the teacher that I have. 🤣
At my age and knee situation I doubt I’ll become a master stair builder in my future but I would have loved to have learned this 30 years ago. I could have retired by now but wouldn’t have.
I am no master carpenter but we are remodeling our stairs and following your advice to the letter. The tread gauge trick alone was a life saver figuring out measurements with 20 year old walls. Thank you for this great tutorial and we love all of your videos! 😁
Attention to detail is so impressive.
Very nice....Detail carpenters are a dying breed , it's comforting to watch trim carpenter at his craft. Been doing this for over 40 years and it never gets old to watch craftsmanship at it's best !.. thumbs up brother
Hi Spencer,you’re a top,top carpenter and I have learned a lot ,and that’s just the way you explain things.much appreciated 👍
you’re a life save dude! thanks, now have the confidence to tackle this myself
You are so good at explaining snd doing what you do.
Man. I've been waiting for a video like this about the stairs and skirt board. I'm about to redo mine. Thank you for such a perfect explanation on how to do this.
Great video. I learned so much. I have zero desire to put in stairs but I understand now how to do them.
Perfect! Great job! Thanks for the Video! 👌👍👌🫡🤩
This is awesome! Your precision and attention to detail are much appreciated :)
Great video! Very informative! The point you mane about protecting you knees is very true. I’m in my late 50s and if I don’t wear knee pads I’m hurting for many days. I’ve started buying Duluth pants with the knee pads and really like them.
A true craftsman...
Thanks, you make it look easy glad you showed that trick screwing in from the backside with those special type of screw that helps to not split the wood great tip
after watching your video I've installed a set of stair today and man I would really like to say how much I appreciate your help! thank you! love your videos
Such perfection! I really love it
This guy amazes me best on the internet
Great video !!!! Thank you
thank you so much! these videos are so helpful
Thank you man! Saved me a tonnes of time! Great job!!🎉
Thank you so much for this video. I have a background as a general carpenter. A few houses, decks, additions but never finish stairs.I built the house I live in now. With our help I felt comfortable enough to accept this challenge. 3 full days to remove the old stairs, build the stringers, and install the risers and treads. I never used the stair gauges before but they were so easy to use, making both risers and treads fit perfectly. I will always give you credit and my stair partner. Thanks SO much
Looks good 👍
Here I am a yr later watching this again just trying to stay updated! U know in my area I just don’t do enough of them ? Everyone ( all the GC’s) use a big stair outfit and they R good and hard to beat! Therefore I do some repairs and updates that’s about it!
Hope your well Spence!
Thanks for your very detailed video. Some suggestions on prepping your risers:
1 -- You could drill the pilot holes to attach the treads before you install the risers.
2 -- You could also start the screws in the risers before you install them.
That would save you some time and also avoid the awkward position when you start the screws after the risers have been installed.
Thanks, again.
Ken
Nice video I'm geeking out on your channel . I been looking for a stair builder for 2 yrs , really have asked 5 contractors a cabinet maker, and 3 home renovation companies, so I'm taking over.
I have always been a big fan of screwing in from the back side. It is very satisfying to be able to look down and see a nice tight fit and no squeaking.
😂😂😂 sorry… I just can’t!
I’ve always screws the risers to the treads from the back. I do basically the same with the skirts… just square cut (sometimes some minor adjustment) the risers/treads, leave the skirt board only tacked to the wall… then as your working your way up put some 3” screws through the stringer into the skirt, it will suck the skirt up nice and tight to your treads/risers… this way will always work if you have a cap on the skirt board anyways, if you don’t you might have some minor gaps between skirt and wall but painters can caulk that and then your skirt is nice and straight even if the wall isn’t perfect. Only time this doesn’t really work is if the wall is just in really bad shape…
I agree about Pintrest projects. In the middle of doing a pintrest Azak deck with a built in bar remodel install right now.. I think we are on version 3.8 or something now....
I bought Collins gauges and would emphasize Spencer's caution to be very careful with them when moving from stairs to cutting station. The Collins design is very elegant, and the crisp steel marking edges are much sharper and more durable than wooden ones. However, I find that the very close proximity of the two clamping knobs gripping the 1x2 does not resist movement very well if the edge is bumped even a little bit. I've addressed this by mounting the Collins edges to a shop-made cross piece setup I built years ago, in which the clamping knobs are spaced about 6" apart on rip of 1/2" plywood provided with a pair of slots ar each end to allow adjustable width. It takes a few more minutes if you need to make a custom length crosspiece, but the grip of the knobs makes this setup far more secure against an accidental bump. (Maybe I'm too rough for the finish work I do...:-)
Brilliant! I’ve encountered the same issue and this sounds like the best solution I’ve found yet.
@@syringconstruction9825 "Stair Wizard" looks like a well-designed and very robust tool. But I've never tried it, a little bulky-looking for my taste.
Thanks!
If you want a wider knee pad, take two and glue to a scrap piece of carpet, so they’re always together and they’re twice as wide for stairs
Nice work! Unfortunately I have found that cordless 15ga and 18ga nailers just aren’t consistent enough with oak. I’m all about cordless but this is definitely a situation where air tools are still king.
Great video. I would like to see how you are doing the landing.
I leave the wall skirt board only tacked to the wall. Then with just square cuts on my risers and treads I run a (or a few) screws through the stringer into the skirt to suck the skirt tight to treads and risers. I also screw my risers into the treads from the back side. And use LOTS of glue lol.
I notice you use the term “We” a lot, best I can tell is we is by himself an awful lot. Great content, much appreciated👍
There is something about saying "I, I, I, ME, ME, My, My," all the time that doesn't sound right.
*Welcome Back*
Thanks Cousin Justin! Welcome back to you as well! I fee like it's been a while since I've see you chime in...
Awesome video and HGTV should pick you up. When you nail the tread to the riser underneath how do you make sure the nail doesn’t blow out?
I've been a dedicated PL Premium user for 30 years. However, for stairs, I recently switched to Bona R880. You have to get it from a flooring supplier or order it online. But I've found in stair tread/riser installation it beats out using PL. Here are the reasons why:
1. It is very grabby. Boards are less likely to slide around
2. It doesn't ooze out of the gun the way PL has a tendency to do, leaving less chance for mess. It is also less messy during application.
3. Sets up way faster than PL. It starts setting in about 10 minutes and can be speeded up to set in 5 minutes if you mist it with water.
4. Allows for movement. PL locks everything in place. However, it doesn't move. In removing old existing treads, I've actually come across the rare tread where the joint bewteen the tread an riser has broken. The flexibility in Bona R880 is designed to prevent this because it allows for movement.
I still use PL Premium for pretty much everything else, but I highly recommend trying out the Bona R880 for stairs.
Keep up the great work, Spencer! Love your content!
Thanks! I'm always on the lookout for better products.
@@InsiderCarpentry same here. You've definitely turned me on to a few items that I've purchased through your links! PS I fixed all the typos - including I spelled your name wrong. Downfall of typing on my phone😬
@alrightythen1533
I really like the detail in your post. I’m a homeowner about to convert a carpeted stair case to white oak treads and painted risers. Choosing the best adhesive possible is key to my situation.
I’m bent on avoiding squeaks and, if possible to either have either…
1. no face-nails nails in the treads, or
2. really small ones (18g) or
3. almost invisible ones (23g pins). I spoke with Grex about use on treads
It’s because I’m using only hard-wax oil (NO STAIN). There is much color variation compared to an evenly stained medium-to-dark stained tread and I’ve not found an easy way to color-match them easily. Putty comes in plenty of colors, but is something I’m not sold on yet. I hear many complaints about it…but maybe that is not definitive. Don’t know.
Choosing the right adhesive has the potential to address a lot of my concerns so any add’l insights you could offer will be appreciated. Had you used F26 by Leech in the past before settling on PL over it? I know you are onto Bona 880 now and have heard promising things about their quantum product for use on treads without face nails. The one that comes in a “sausage tube”, not the thinner Quantum Flow for floors.
I was going to use PL Premium based on how many folks on youtube recommend it. Then I kept running into a lot of local carpenters and builders highly recommended F26 adhesive by Leeech. Swearing by it, actually. The company has an outstanding tech support person who absolutely says F26 does not expand or swell and stays flexible indefinitely and that it is what doing the holding over time (decades) which prevents squeaks, not the nails.
Will leave it there for now. Can add a little for if anyone is kind enough to reply to my post.
You also can set a dado on the underside of the tread, whats nice with that is your dimension is set, just need to plumb your risers and nail it place. Little bit more work but you have a nice shop, easy set up for you. Keep up the good work, enjoy your workmanship and videos.
Then leave the riser high the depth of the dado? Slightly less, actaully.
Thanks.
@@als1023 yes, that is the idea.
In this case you would probably have to stop dado these, so you can't see the dado from the side.
The craftsmanship and attention to detail is really great to watch. I always enjoy your content.
Watching this as a flooring guy, having never done hardwood steps I do have one question (for now lol).
If the backside drywall wasn't on, or you still had access to the backside of the stringers (say as in an under stair closet), would you take the time to pocket hole screw the tops of the backside of the risers to the nosing of the tread?
Would this be severe overkill or would it be a step you would take if given the opportunity?
I definitely would if I had access to it. As a matter of fact, I can remember a job years ago where I did have access and was able to do that.
To bad I can’t rent a fes tool stair saw with guide
I always wanted to master stair building because that was where the money was. Just never really got to it.
Found u recently. I am trying to tackle replacing carpet with hardwood. My stairs are a bit complicated. I'd really like to learn and need to build some confidence. Any book you'd recommend on stair remodel to help me? Main complication is removal of a knee wall and resulting expansion of the length of each stair. Meaning, you can see the edge of the stairs from the side rather than the treads and risers bumping up against the knee wall.
If those are young mill treads you can knock that return off to shorten up the tread up on table saw. I do it to bevel the back of the tread, I rip a strip of wood to put in the back side of he return. It’s a pain I have to do it at least once a week on remodel work dang 9” runs.
Spencer, love the content.
We used to rabbet the underside of tread and allow a wider riser to recess up into rabbet. What’s your thoughts on that?
On the outside skirt, id really like to see you tackle a mitered corner to see how you do it. I keep two saws, a left bladed one and a right. Whats your method?
When you nailed the tread down to the riser you were using you nailer parallel to the riser but it should be perpendicular because nails are designed to wander left or right of the gun not up and down. You risk blowing out the face of the riser.
Thank you. Rehabbing A Townhome To Sell It.
Love your videos! I would love to see how you adjust the stair stringer when going from stairs that have been carpeted to hardwoods. I’m doing that now and there is a huge gap between the stringer and the stair skirting. Not sure if I should just leave it or try to add wood blocks.
?
I think you just measure tread and risers from skirt to skirt. There should be enough hardwood that the overhang shouldn't cause too much of a problem unless you're talking 6" or more. Then you might want to put in extra stringers on the outsides and down your skirting. I call them wings but whatever hardwood doesn't bend easily.
My stairs were built for carpet in 1993 with 8 inch risers and 9 inch treads. I had new flooring installed and the top and bottom landings and now I need to pad the stringers out for the new oak risers and treads. Any advice on how I should go about doing it so all the risers and treads come out evenly?
I've been studying your stair techniques in preparation to replace my 1st set of stairs that had been carpeted. The stringers are not the best and I wonder if you have any tips for dealing with low quality (sloppy cuts) and damaged (way too many nails split the wood) stringers. I also noticed the white oak treads have some checking and small cracks on the end. (probably my fault putting them in the garage for a few days) Hoping it can be dealt with (glue?) to make sure it doesn't spread. I'd rather take the hit and buy more than have problems develop after they're glued in,. I had paid a carpenter but they were wholly incompetent and I had to stop work. The following quotes were ~$1000/step for 36" no return straight run treads, so I feel trapped into finishing it myself. I trust this channel and it's subscribers (amazing % of experienced carpenters) for quality info and appreciate any wisdom.
Great video, I have a question, doesn't the brad nails ruin the look of the hardwood stairs? Never saw here anyone using nails , we more assemble everything usually from backside , hidden.
Fantastic video, helped me so much. One question for you though....when screwing in those risers from the back have you ever dropped that drill? I can only imagine what you would go through if you did :)
Never a drill but I have lost a couple of torpedo levels. LOL :(
good video! only thing i wouldve done different is cut a small return piece out of the offcut of the risers so the grains would match when looking from the side, other than that nice work man!
A mitered return might defeat the purpose of this design. End grain with the same species as the tread is what I think the designer is after here. This will be a one off for the designer or architect…too often, professionals (architects and designers) and clients with no tool time under their belts will want to create a unique look even if it is unsound. No psychoanalysis here but it is often an ego thing. A stair case is not the place to experiment with design. Safety first. I have always believed that a painted rise is the safest stair. Visually, it calls out the tread when ascending the stair. But all that aside, I might have suggested slight chamfers at the end grain. Sort of a thru tenon furniture look. But not a mitered return to lose the end grain.
QUESTION: what size nail are you using in this example?
Thanks for the video---I'm getting ready to do this process and your instruction has been very helpful!
a brad nail. it's 18 gauge.
18 Ga on the risers. 15 ga on the treads.
Can you or someone elaborate on why you add plywood pieces to your riser and runs on the stringers? You’ve mentioned they were setup for carpet, not treads on a previous video.
In the process of doing my own stairs, and your videos have been a great help! However, my one worry now that I’ve reached the tread installation phase, are those finishing nails. I do not plan on staining the treads (finish only) & am worried that filler may not blend in well. Underside/backside of stairs is not accessible. What advice or product suggestions might you give me for this? Thank you so much for sharing your craft!
Try mixing wood glue and sawdust from the same material
Hi Spencer. How you do the nails theay are visible. Do you leave it like this or will you cover them anyway later? Or will there be a carpet added later on top of the wood? Thanks!
I noticed one thing. There is a small gap maybe 1/8 in between your riser and stringer. I am wondering you are doing that on purpose. Can you set bottom of riser flush against the stringer? Thanks a lot
Great video as always. How do you handle the last riser where you can't really access to screw into the tread? Just a bunch of glue or PL?
Yep. Try and make sure the riser is as straight as possible when you nail it on. Then push the tread into it with adhesive on the back of the tread.
You could also pre-assemble the riser and tread together on a flat table then install it as one unit
How do you get behind the top riser to screw in the tread if the sub floor is in the way?
Great video as always!
Screw it to tread before setting it in
That's one of the reasons that I prefer Sub-tread material not be installed.
I’m not experienced like you but wouldn’t it be better to put the tread down first and then the riser? Can you explain this? Thank you you’re very talented.
Just scribed them back in age of the dinosaurs 😅
Hey Spencer. It’s seems you want the tightest possible joint between the risers, the treads and the skirt board, but what about the wood expansion. How is that accommodated? We leave a gap between flooring and the walls and everything else for floating floors at least. Does proper adhesive stop the expansion? Really confused on this one. Please help. Thanks.
Bold of you to let the off cut drop.
Are you beveling the tread where it meets the inside skirtboard along the wall? Great job as usual & explaining things. Spencer you should consider teaching classes online.
He actually says in the video he does not
@@nickbedard7854 thanks appreciate it
I have done it both ways. On this job I didn't.
What's the finish on that 1/4 stick out of the riser????
I know you have compensated for finish floor but I mean if they really screw up. Would you just not take the job? 24:11
Can you tell me what earband you are using? Anyone else know?
What gauge nail are you using on the treads? Great video by the way!
Hi great video, im wondering the same.
He's using a 18ga on the risers and a metabo 15ga on the treads. We use the same set up.
I believe that’s a 15 gauge nailer
15 guage angled nails
12 gauge
Do you always build your stairs according to the framers tread rise cuts or do you try to compensate for their mistakes 🤷♂️. Or have them redo their work?
I often have to fix their mistakes.
Great vid. Please get your tech level replaced as the vials are faded clear. Versus the standard stabila yellow. It is under warranty. Take care.
What size nail for the treads?
Is there any way to avoid the gap between the riser and the tread on the 1/4" reveal on the left? At 24:11 you show a close up of the stairs where you can see it in the bottom left, what do you do to fill that?
Maybe Pinterest designers don’t believe in cove moldings.
Nose and cove, nose n cove. They got the nose. Now have a little cove with your nose, Pinterest peeps. Not many profiles as classical as a nose n cove.
How do you screw the riser to the tread at the top/last step ? No access right ?
In my case, I don't. Adhesive and nails due to not having access.
What is the purpose of pushing the tread to the riser vs tread first riser on top
He fastens the riser to the tread from behind the riser.
How do you find builders that don't push you hard to get in and get out? I was finish carpenter for ten years before the housing crisis of 2008. Mostly worked on custom 4000+ sq ft homes. I can't stand the builders constant pushing to get it done...I was a one-man show. I now strictly work for homeowners accept for one remodeling company. I don't miss the new construction world...
He is the best in his field.
Timothy I’ve always thought the same thing… I’ve never worked for a contractor that would allow me to spend that much time on a stairway…
And they definitely wouldn’t want to pay for the level of install Spencer is giving this.
@@HolyTerminator Says who ?
He doesn’t even say that himself.
That’s the “as seen on TV” effect in action right there.
Most clients I had said I was the best. That’s BS. People have no way to compare. They just see what they see. They ignore what they don’t see exists.
They are hard to find. I'm blessed to have worked mostly for one great builder for several years.
@@InsiderCarpentry im a carpenter but i would love to be your apprentice.
It doesn’t look like I can use my skill saw with a track guide because I can’t get the bevel to go in the correct direction, before the track saw did everyone use compound miter with a slide
How much theeth have your blade in the tracksaw
Isn’t 10 tread the min code everywhere? Or you counting the riser also creeping up on 10”? I am confused 9 “ seems to narrow?
In my area it is not code, but in my opinion 10" should be code everywhere.
@@InsiderCarpentry Thk u Spencer I am looking at some plans that has two sets of stairs for Treads & Risers and I like the 1/4” detail however I seen the extra work that was? Now I am afraid to show the GC the video???
Ha!! LoL ! Thanks again for all your teaching for pros I am just really appreciative brother!
Curious why you don’t lay the risers on top of the treads instead of performing the notching operation? You might answer this question later in the video, I’ll delete if that’s the case.
Because the line between the riser and tread is much more visible if you do it that way
What kind of blade do you use on you hkc55?
Oshlun if I want cheap, festool blades probably work best. The saw is under-powered so a thinner kerf is better.
Why don't you use your Milwaukee track saw for this work?
wouldn't having a MFT/3 be a bit more helpful than a trashcan for a work surface? 😁
Sure would, but then I'd have to buy it, store it, transport it, and make extra steps getting it out and putting it away.
2nd
Spencer you need a good set of chisels
I have a handful of sets of the stanley sweetheart chisels. They work well for me.
surprised that you only have 3 stringers at that width?
1st
Why don't you install treads first and then risers on top of them?
Can't get as good a support unless you have an open back to the stair when screwing it in from the backside
Why did you nail these down where in other videos you just used glue only?
What's the benefit of a riser gauge over a tape measure?
Why not install the treads first and just have the risers rest on them instead of cutting the notch on the treads?
What I want when watching these types of videos is not just a how, but a why.
Because "rough" framing is behind it,angle is from 89.5°-90.5 °.
When you template you don't need to know,and if you do not you have a gap.
Jacob, Spencer did a previous video where he talks more in depth about the Collins stair gauge and all of its benefits. He was installing treads and risers in an enclosed stairway in a house.
Those painted skirts are soooooo ridiculous.
You see what is going on right? Your telling these guys things it took professionals like me years of experience to learn. These guys watch your videos, then they going out n selling jobs like they are in our levels. Some things are to be sold not told, and they only last a year cuz they really don't know what they're doing.
Or they could have the confidence to start younger at tackling more challenging jobs because they actually have someone to guide them. And then they could in turn become more skilled than us, do better work for their clients, and create better lives for their families.
Personally, I just want to build my own for my own house.
That's why they're called disruptive technologies. Times have changed, knowledge cant be protected and siloed like pre internet. I've often reflected on the value of Spencer's vids that in times gone by they'd be sold on DVD (or VHS lol) for thousand's of dollars. Now they're either free or the cost of a youtube subscription but it's RUclips that's making the most, not the creator but I'm sure Spencer does OK and deservedly so.
I was never much on people obscurantes Spencer is direct opposite
Spencer- I'm surprised to see you using an air finish nailer. I thought you were mostly using the Milwaukee cordless platform now. What's you reason?
Cordless nailers have a hard time getting through hardwood
I'm having a terrible time with the M18 15 gauge. But in general I would never use a cordless nailer on 1" thick white oak. Way too dense. Air is much more reliable in this case.
@@InsiderCarpentry I kind of thought that, but wasn't sure.Funny thing though, when I built my house years ago, my Senco nailer had a hard time setting the nails on my clear maple window stools. Ended up setting them by hand which left a larger hole than I would have liked.
Is there a reason why you do the all the risers first? Isnt it better to do tread first so the riser overlaps the cut line like baseboards over flooring? It also would have eliminated the need for the notch on the riser.
More holding power going into 5/4 edge than 3/4. If you put the riser onto the tread, with drywall underneath, it might be a trick to connect them the other way at edge with a fastener. Most shop stairs are done this way also. With shrinkage, any gap will not be seen when looking straight on. Typical shop stair has glue blocks as backers. In this video, they would be used underneath where the front of the tread meets the top of the rise.