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I needed to see this!! I am currently at this point and have been racking my brain on how to cut the vinyl around the door. You cut the vinyl with no problem.
If you are laying your own luxury vinyl plank (LVP) flooring, pay close attention to how the pieces lock together while laying flat. You slide them together while flat on the floor and they lock together. Some types of LVP flooring have to be on about a 30 degree angle to slide together and lock into each other. That does not sound like a big deal, but it makes working around door jambs a real nightmare. Because it would not lock together without that 30 degree angle, I had to remove the baseboard molding and the door trim so I could get the pieces to lock together properly, and still have the edges hidden under the trim. You can use quarter round trim along the baseboard, but you can't do that around door trim. So when you buy your LVP, pay close attention to how it snaps together. If you are laying this yourself, even if it cost a little more to buy plank flooring that snaps together as in this video, it is worth the easier installation for a DIY install. I was (am and still) looking for how to do this around an exterior door. And the guy installing this LVP in the video shows some great tips if you can remember how he did the cuts and marking his lines.
@@josephk9182 yes, that's the point I was driving at. If you're thinking of buying LVP flooring, the manner in which they lock is important. If you are laying flooring before your trim and doors are installed, the LVP I used that required the 30 degree angle would not be a big deal. If you're doing a renovation after all the doors and trim are installed, LVP that requires a 30 or other angle to properly attach, that will make working around door trim a nightmare. You have two choices at that point - 1) remove the door trim, lay the floor, then reinstall the trim, or 2) get a small trimming plane (like used for planing wood) and shave off the parts where they lock together and use glue so you don't have to use the 30 degrees to lock. I chose to remove my trim and reinstall, and I wish now that I'd known this before buying this type of LVP. It made the installation so much more difficult and time consuming. And if I ever need to replace a piece, I'd have to with the small trim planing trick because without tearing apart the floor to replace a single piece, you have to trim and glue. And you can pretty much IGNORE the warranty on LVP. 25 years, 50 years, it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. It's more of a sales tactic than added value. If you talk to the sales rep and get the in depth detail, you'll likely find that if you have an issue and take advantage of your warranty, if you have 1 piece that gets damaged 5-10 years down the line, they will give you 1 piece of plank. It's 100% on YOU to do all the tear down and reinstalling required to replace that plank. In the process of taking apart and replacing you'll likely destroy the edges on adjacent pieces trying to do the replacement. Unless it is on the very edge of a section, replacing a plank is not an easy task. If it is, please post a video of an example.
I'm here right now because of this exact situation and trying not to have to remove the trim! I've never seen plank flooring that doesn't require it to be clicked together at an angle. The whole time I watched this video I was thinking "Wow that flooring is so flexible, slides so easily, and snaps together so easily!" Does anyone have a brand the recommend that doesn't require this?
@@csg3182 Ah, yes, I'm about to do my first door jam. I've removed the door trim, but still feel like the planks would have a problem going together without lifting it first. Cutting the lock and glueing it was something I had not thought of. Thanks.
Yes we are going to do that also, I like BM stonington and Coventry Gray also grey owl and SW passive however I won’t know for sure what wall color to pick until we decide on the flooring. Do you mind if I ask what wall color you have here it’s beautiful too.
Thank you so much for your response, I really love the color, would you mind letting me know what you think of this floor and how has it been holding up for you. Thanks again for your help I appreciate it. I have a ton of flooring samples and still unable to find the perfect shade of grey without to much brownish in it. Have a great night.
I wish you had shown how you reach to the wall, we have same area exact situation but hard to do. I wish u had shown 1 step back where you touch wall.@josephk9182
@@carforumwanker it's not an excuse. Ive been doing flooring for 10 years go look at any new home without shoe mold they just Caulk all the door jams and baseboards that make contact with the flooring.
Question. Why is there a need to pencil the line that you are going to cut if it's like the one he did? I use a utility, trace my scribing tile with it, turn the plank around and snap it off. A move not needed... by the end of a job those wasted moves add up..
He's right up against the wall and door way. These floating floors need 1/4 in all around to allow for expansions due to temp changes. That floor is gonna buckle unless he's in a ideal climate.
@@josephk9182 2:20. You can clearly hear it hit the wall and or door way, and you don't pull it back but rather continue on with tapping it down and adding another piece in back. I confess I didn't watch the entire thing super close and maybe you did pull the plank out a quarter inch afterwards. Perhaps you can link the time frame where you did That? If not obviously I'll take your word for it but from the 2:20 Mark it looks like you pushed it all the way to the wall then pressed / locked it into the other plank then added another plank. Never pulling it out a quarter inch.
Ok i watched it again. You definitely never pulled it back from the wall so there is no spacing what so ever on the right, (your left.) You'll have to rely on whatever space you have on the other side ( looks to be an 8th inch though maybe 3/16ths ) of the door way for temp expansion. Either way it's not 1/4in all the way around. Good luck,
@@LiveWildandFree37 There was a carpet on this floor which I removed before installing the LVP. The carpet was install under the base boards and the door jamb. Between the floor and the base board or the door jamb there is a gab of 3/8" high and 3/8" deep. Please look carefully .
The company is Serenbee and it called "Canadian walnut trinity" Or "Candian walnut Digby" . I just search in the web: www.fastfloors.com/vinyl/nova-floor/serenbe-rigid-lvt-planks-with-hdc/ You can find it cheaper from other sources
I already have gap under the door. You can do it using this method without cutting underneath the door but it is much better to have a gap underneath your door to install the LVP.
You need a jamb saw ($10 or so at any hardware store) to cut your own. You put it on top of a scrap piece of flooring and use it to cut your door trim to exactly the right height.
I appreciate your cutting technique, but your door jams are like 1/4" above the floor. I'm looking to see how the planks are installed with there is less room.
The video is not very clear but it looks to me when you placed that plank under the door frame, it was pretty loos and there was too much space. We need to have a tight fit and no loose space. I am not a pro at this.
I just tore up a floor bc the person who installed the floor did not do this. It looked absolutely terrible. And he bragged that he built houses. Now I don't trust anyone.
You're working in the dark and don't explain what you're measuring or cutting, just rushing to show how fast you are doing the work doesn't help, change your video name to "look how fast I can install flooring in the dark closet"
The darkness cause by the sun and the closet. Unfortunately there was no light in the closet. Second the video is not fast you can repeat the video. I explained each step in the video.
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I needed to see this!! I am currently at this point and have been racking my brain on how to cut the vinyl around the door. You cut the vinyl with no problem.
This solves my issue perfectly. Thanks fir sharing!
You make it look easier than it is. Great job. Thanks!
If you are laying your own luxury vinyl plank (LVP) flooring, pay close attention to how the pieces lock together while laying flat. You slide them together while flat on the floor and they lock together. Some types of LVP flooring have to be on about a 30 degree angle to slide together and lock into each other. That does not sound like a big deal, but it makes working around door jambs a real nightmare. Because it would not lock together without that 30 degree angle, I had to remove the baseboard molding and the door trim so I could get the pieces to lock together properly, and still have the edges hidden under the trim. You can use quarter round trim along the baseboard, but you can't do that around door trim. So when you buy your LVP, pay close attention to how it snaps together. If you are laying this yourself, even if it cost a little more to buy plank flooring that snaps together as in this video, it is worth the easier installation for a DIY install. I was (am and still) looking for how to do this around an exterior door. And the guy installing this LVP in the video shows some great tips if you can remember how he did the cuts and marking his lines.
Thank you for the info. This LVP does not need 30 degrees to be locked.
@@josephk9182 yes, that's the point I was driving at. If you're thinking of buying LVP flooring, the manner in which they lock is important. If you are laying flooring before your trim and doors are installed, the LVP I used that required the 30 degree angle would not be a big deal. If you're doing a renovation after all the doors and trim are installed, LVP that requires a 30 or other angle to properly attach, that will make working around door trim a nightmare. You have two choices at that point - 1) remove the door trim, lay the floor, then reinstall the trim, or 2) get a small trimming plane (like used for planing wood) and shave off the parts where they lock together and use glue so you don't have to use the 30 degrees to lock. I chose to remove my trim and reinstall, and I wish now that I'd known this before buying this type of LVP. It made the installation so much more difficult and time consuming. And if I ever need to replace a piece, I'd have to with the small trim planing trick because without tearing apart the floor to replace a single piece, you have to trim and glue.
And you can pretty much IGNORE the warranty on LVP. 25 years, 50 years, it doesn't really matter in the grand scheme of things. It's more of a sales tactic than added value. If you talk to the sales rep and get the in depth detail, you'll likely find that if you have an issue and take advantage of your warranty, if you have 1 piece that gets damaged 5-10 years down the line, they will give you 1 piece of plank. It's 100% on YOU to do all the tear down and reinstalling required to replace that plank. In the process of taking apart and replacing you'll likely destroy the edges on adjacent pieces trying to do the replacement. Unless it is on the very edge of a section, replacing a plank is not an easy task. If it is, please post a video of an example.
I'm here right now because of this exact situation and trying not to have to remove the trim! I've never seen plank flooring that doesn't require it to be clicked together at an angle. The whole time I watched this video I was thinking "Wow that flooring is so flexible, slides so easily, and snaps together so easily!" Does anyone have a brand the recommend that doesn't require this?
I’m glad I’m not the only one in this predicament lol , looks like I’ll be cutting the lock and glueing it down
@@csg3182 Ah, yes, I'm about to do my first door jam. I've removed the door trim, but still feel like the planks would have a problem going together without lifting it first. Cutting the lock and glueing it was something I had not thought of. Thanks.
How did you get the piece in that's already there under both door jambs?
Yes we are going to do that also, I like BM stonington and Coventry Gray also grey owl and SW passive however I won’t know for sure what wall color to pick until we decide on the flooring. Do you mind if I ask what wall color you have here it’s beautiful too.
Repose Gray from Sherwing Williams
Thank you so much for your response, I really love the color, would you mind letting me know what you think of this floor and how has it been holding up for you. Thanks again for your help I appreciate it. I have a ton of flooring samples and still unable to find the perfect shade of grey without to much brownish in it. Have a great night.
It is very good. You should match the floor shade to the wall color.
Wow!! I've been here using this saw making a huge mess in my kitchen and he's only using a razor!?! Nice!!
Thank You
Vinyl flooring that thin you can use a utility knife thicker vinyl flooring isn't as easy to cut or lock into the row in front of the door
Nice gaps under the door jambs and casing.
Super helpful, thank you!
Thanks for the explanation. Very helpful
Any time.
I wish you had shown how you reach to the wall, we have same area exact situation but hard to do.
I wish u had shown 1 step back where you touch wall.@josephk9182
Guy is very good.
Thank you.
nice GAP between new floor and door frame !!!
That's normal. They will just put white cocking to cover it.
Crap excuse incorrect amount removed to allow flooring and insulation etc . Good people will allow 1-2 mm max .
@@carforumwanker it's not an excuse. Ive been doing flooring for 10 years go look at any new home without shoe mold they just Caulk all the door jams and baseboards that make contact with the flooring.
@@williamnguyen6258 Then you are working on shit builds with no real skills
Question. Why is there a need to pencil the line that you are going to cut if it's like the one he did? I use a utility, trace my scribing tile with it, turn the plank around and snap it off. A move not needed... by the end of a job those wasted moves add up..
You doing it more efficient.
He's right up against the wall and door way. These floating floors need 1/4 in all around to allow for expansions due to temp changes. That floor is gonna buckle unless he's in a ideal climate.
It has 1/4 of an inch around to allow for expansions due to temp changes
@@josephk9182 2:20. You can clearly hear it hit the wall and or door way, and you don't pull it back but rather continue on with tapping it down and adding another piece in back. I confess I didn't watch the entire thing super close and maybe you did pull the plank out a quarter inch afterwards. Perhaps you can link the time frame where you did That? If not obviously I'll take your word for it but from the 2:20 Mark it looks like you pushed it all the way to the wall then pressed / locked it into the other plank then added another plank. Never pulling it out a quarter inch.
Ok i watched it again. You definitely never pulled it back from the wall so there is no spacing what so ever on the right, (your left.)
You'll have to rely on whatever space you have on the other side ( looks to be an 8th inch though maybe 3/16ths ) of the door way for temp expansion. Either way it's not 1/4in all the way around. Good luck,
@@LiveWildandFree37 There was a carpet on this floor which I removed before installing the LVP. The carpet was install under the base boards and the door jamb. Between the floor and the base board or the door jamb there is a gab of 3/8" high and 3/8" deep. Please look carefully .
what about underlay and skirtings? taking of skirtings makes massive difference in look.
The smart core 12 mil is too thick would you use a jig saw ?
When needed.
looks beautiful
Thank you
Thank you
Any time.
Usually the door frame is cut flush with the floor. How would you have clipped the board into the groove if the door jamb didn't have a large gap?
They have a 1/4" inch gap since a carpet used to be on the floor before the LVP was installed.
Can you please tell me what color this is im concerning it for my home
The company is Serenbee and it called "Canadian walnut trinity" Or "Candian walnut Digby" . I just search in the web:
www.fastfloors.com/vinyl/nova-floor/serenbe-rigid-lvt-planks-with-hdc/
You can find it cheaper from other sources
Thank you so much 😊
You welcome
Camera man should've gotten a close up on how he marked it. That's the whole bread in butter.
+1
Do you need extension gap under door jamb?
No. You need gap.
Do I have to cut underneath my door or I can do this method?
I already have gap under the door. You can do it using this method without cutting underneath the door but it is much better to have a gap underneath your door to install the LVP.
but what if you don't have that gap to slide under?
You have to cut the door jams to create the space, an oscillating tool works quite well. There are videos on YT to show you exactly how.
You need a jamb saw ($10 or so at any hardware store) to cut your own. You put it on top of a scrap piece of flooring and use it to cut your door trim to exactly the right height.
@@saundebn If you do that, the cut will be too high by the kerf size of the saw.
Thats all good but what about that hideous gap at the bottom?
You put quarter round.
Why the additional cut where the door door jam is? Can't you just cut the end where it goes to the wall?
You also can do it.
I appreciate your cutting technique, but your door jams are like 1/4" above the floor. I'm looking to see how the planks are installed with there is less room.
The cut in the door jams was there before I installed the LVP.
@@josephk9182 Ok. Thanks for explaining. It’s hard to find videos where things are a little tight and you need to tap the planks into place.
The video is not very clear but it looks to me when you placed that plank under the door frame, it was pretty loos and there was too much space. We need to have a tight fit and no loose space. I am not a pro at this.
You need space its a floating floor
How the fuck you do that so easily ive been trying for an hour i still cant get it
A pro !!
I just tore up a floor bc the person who installed the floor did not do this. It looked absolutely terrible. And he bragged that he built houses. Now I don't trust anyone.
I hate criticizing but, he's on the other side of the camera. It's dark, and you can barely hear what's being said.
Next time get where you can see what he's doing,
Sure
You're working in the dark and don't explain what you're measuring or cutting, just rushing to show how fast you are doing the work doesn't help, change your video name to "look how fast I can install flooring in the dark closet"
The darkness cause by the sun and the closet. Unfortunately there was no light in the closet. Second the video is not fast you can repeat the video. I explained each step in the video.
Very thin and cheap materials.
Looks paper.
Nonsense. One of the best LVP.
If you think this looks cheap go look in new house with glue down LVP flooring