Having a slight texture is good. This is why a golf ball flies good with the dimples. The texture creates turbulence on the surface which reduces the boundary layer, which means less aerodynamic drag and more air flow.
Nice info for the newbie's mate. That intake is from a dodge or chrysler, it had a throttle body and spray head injection setup that mounted at the back there. The air came past the spray head and mixed as it went down the intake runners. Looks like you have the right approach to the finish you leave for that situation.
I've got a couple emails asking if this can be accomplished with just abrasives. Yes it can, it will just take longer, possibly a lot longer depending on how much aluminum you need to remove. The carbide burrs seem to work better IMO at reshaping the runners closer to straight internally
No, that is not true at all when working with non-pressurized intake systems. All casting marks, seams, and surface flaws are removed, as stated in the video. However the smooth texture finish will promote the air boundary layer effect, (similar to the dimples on a golf ball). The textured finish will also promote fuel droplet dissipation by allowing for less surface tension, along with helping keep the the fuel air mixture mixed while traveling the intake runner. Thanks for watching.
High speed is ok as long as the burr is balanced, Most chatter and bounce is caused by hitting two surfaces at the same time ie the port wall and floor, WD40 works very well for lube, Heat is your biggest enemy, you want the cutter to do the work with minimal pressure applied in my experience
Yeah not real sure what you mean. These intake ports were not buffed. They were enlarged, reshaped, casting marks removed, and the severe mismatch between the intake port opening and the cylinder head port opening is fixed. If you watch some of the other videos on my channel you can see more about that. Overall the intake ports were opened over 3.5 mm more in cross sectional area.
There are a lot of choices out there. Just from us at CC Specialty, there is the 20 Kit, the D44SRMC, D2MC, Bare Bones Kit (cheapest starter kit), and several others. Depends a lot on how much you want to do (and spend). If you already have a rotary hand tool and drive motor, you could even get away with just some carbide burrs and sanding abrasives. Thanks for watching.
my mind told me to run the burr on a bar of soap occasionally to keep the flutes clean of buildup, seems to work, heard candle wax helps also. whats ur take on this?
+Jobob's Bobjobs there are several forms o lubricants that can help during the metal cutting aspect of this. They serve to lubricate, reduce build up, and dissipate heat. We even sell a specialized wax based lubricant that works perfectly for this application www.ccspecialtytoolstore.com/porting-wax-p/portwax.htm
I have a noob kind of question. When you port & polish it, you're basically making the port (in the intake in this case) the same size (and shape) and the opening in the gasket, correct?
Thanks for watching. It is important to match the intake or port opening to the gasket, or more often the gasket to the opening. This particular intake had a considerable mismatch between the port opening on the cylinder head and the opening on the intake. You will see me address this in some of the other videos. Porting and polishing is a lot more than just gasket matching, however, the fundamental idea is to improve the flow and efficiency of the overall system, with precise and incremental improvements.
That's a really good point. Look at the pieced your working on overall. Is it really the moment to be matching to the gasket, or is the gasket better trimmed then removing too much material to match to the gasket would be detrimental, especially with something for the street and not the drag strip.
+E Cannon That would be a Cross Buff www.ccspecialtytoolstore.com/cross-buff-abrasive-1inch-p/crsbf1inch.htm . The Cross Buff blending abrasive is great for the final leveling and smoothing part of the process. Cross Buffs can conform to the surface and inner dimensions of the port or tunnel, and come in various grits. They can also create various surface textures, depending on what rpm you run them at, and how much pressure you apply. Thanks for watching.
I have never heard anyone say that "a little texture" is good. Any burr or casting seam ect... decreases port velocity. When gasket matching, you wanna blend everything possible, but texture is your enemy when it comes to port flow.
i buy all my porting stuff from these guys...they got great porting tools...my work and being busy shows it...big thanks..rcr
Having a slight texture is good. This is why a golf ball flies good with the dimples. The texture creates turbulence on the surface which reduces the boundary layer, which means less aerodynamic drag and more air flow.
Nice info for the newbie's mate. That intake is from a dodge or chrysler, it had a throttle body and spray head injection setup that mounted at the back there. The air came past the spray head and mixed as it went down the intake runners. Looks like you have the right approach to the finish you leave for that situation.
You need to show guys the diff between use'n carbide burrs, sanding rolls, abrasive stones, pneumatics, and so on.
Thanks and I think this is good info for anyone, not just beginners
I've got a couple emails asking if this can be accomplished with just abrasives. Yes it can, it will just take longer, possibly a lot longer depending on how much aluminum you need to remove. The carbide burrs seem to work better IMO at reshaping the runners closer to straight internally
Thanks ...sub'd....A hot rod builder I know quizzed me a while back about smooth vs textured..glad to see you mentioned textured like he taught me.
No, that is not true at all when working with non-pressurized intake systems. All casting marks, seams, and surface flaws are removed, as stated in the video. However the smooth texture finish will promote the air boundary layer effect, (similar to the dimples on a golf ball). The textured finish will also promote fuel droplet dissipation by allowing for less surface tension, along with helping keep the the fuel air mixture mixed while traveling the intake runner. Thanks for watching.
High speed is ok as long as the burr is balanced, Most chatter and bounce is caused by hitting two surfaces at the same time ie the port wall and floor, WD40 works very well for lube, Heat is your biggest enemy, you want the cutter to do the work with minimal pressure applied in my experience
Yeah not real sure what you mean. These intake ports were not buffed. They were enlarged, reshaped, casting marks removed, and the severe mismatch between the intake port opening and the cylinder head port opening is fixed. If you watch some of the other videos on my channel you can see more about that. Overall the intake ports were opened over 3.5 mm more in cross sectional area.
not a bad idea, I just might use that for a video later.
Which kit would I need to port manifolds
There are a lot of choices out there. Just from us at CC Specialty, there is the 20 Kit, the D44SRMC, D2MC, Bare Bones Kit (cheapest starter kit), and several others. Depends a lot on how much you want to do (and spend). If you already have a rotary hand tool and drive motor, you could even get away with just some carbide burrs and sanding abrasives. Thanks for watching.
my mind told me to run the burr on a bar of soap occasionally to keep the flutes clean of buildup, seems to work, heard candle wax helps also. whats ur take on this?
+Jobob's Bobjobs there are several forms o lubricants that can help during the metal cutting aspect of this. They serve to lubricate, reduce build up, and dissipate heat. We even sell a specialized wax based lubricant that works perfectly for this application www.ccspecialtytoolstore.com/porting-wax-p/portwax.htm
Be sure to check out the final results of porting this intake on the companion video to this one. You can find it on the same channel.
So whats the purpose? to increase horsepower and performance?
I have a noob kind of question. When you port & polish it, you're basically making the port (in the intake in this case) the same size (and shape) and the opening in the gasket, correct?
Thanks for watching. It is important to match the intake or port opening to the gasket, or more often the gasket to the opening. This particular intake had a considerable mismatch between the port opening on the cylinder head and the opening on the intake. You will see me address this in some of the other videos. Porting and polishing is a lot more than just gasket matching, however, the fundamental idea is to improve the flow and efficiency of the overall system, with precise and incremental improvements.
That's a really good point. Look at the pieced your working on overall. Is it really the moment to be matching to the gasket, or is the gasket better trimmed then removing too much material to match to the gasket would be detrimental, especially with something for the street and not the drag strip.
thats a 2.2/2.5 Chrysler intake i know those flange shapes anywhere
What is that sponge looking bit called? At 12:36. Thanks
+E Cannon That would be a Cross Buff www.ccspecialtytoolstore.com/cross-buff-abrasive-1inch-p/crsbf1inch.htm . The Cross Buff blending abrasive is great for the final leveling and smoothing part of the process. Cross Buffs can conform to the surface and inner dimensions of the port or tunnel, and come in various grits. They can also create various surface textures, depending on what rpm you run them at, and how much pressure you apply. Thanks for watching.
I have never heard anyone say that "a little texture" is good. Any burr or casting seam ect... decreases port velocity. When gasket matching, you wanna blend everything possible, but texture is your enemy when it comes to port flow.
you have to use motor oil thats why it is skipping
+puppup zera Nope. Not skipping, and don't use motor oil when you're doing this. Thanks for watching.
+CC Specialty Tools I do this every day works for me should try it
+puppup zera sure it could probably work fine. We sell a specially formulated Porting Wax that will work a bit better though
Rpm's? More like Rps's
Good point. My die grinder is 12,000 RPM, but I could call that. ..200 RPS.