The video is worth watching in it's entirety. Thank you. For those who want the recipe measurements: 6 ounces of mineral oil to 10 rounded teaspoons of beeswax. If you want a shinier surface, 6 ounces of mineral oil to 5 rounded teaspoons of beeswax and 5 rounded carnauba wax. Great video. I'm going to restore a 1960s cutting board that was in a kitchen we remodeled. We wanted to save something as a bit of nostalgia.
Hi , Thank you so much for your comments. I am happy that you enjoyed the video. Good luck with restoring that cutting board. It sounds like a great project. -Andrew
This is fantastic, thank you. Gonna get the 2'x2'x1" teak project board at Lowes and do up a cutting board for $47. But this wouldn't be RUclips without a little commenter nitpicking. 😉 The combination of beeswax and mineral oil isn't an emulsion. Both oil and wax are nonpolar bonded molecules. "Like dissolves like" therefore it's just a mixture. This is why oil can cut through oil-based messes and water can cut through water-based messes. Nonpolar oil blended into a very polar water is an emulsion. But oil into wax is a mixture. OK. Thanks. 🙂
I am getting ready to cut up several slabs of “Pecan Wood” from a tree that my dad planted about 45+ yrs. ago…The tree had to be removed for property improvements…I had it professionally milled and it’s been in my shed for over 5 yrs. waiting for me to do something with it…I’ve decided to make all cutting boards with it…I am going to mix in some other hardwoods like the ones that you recommended…I also liked the idea for the finish that you recommended…I wrote it down and hope to use it…Thanks for your info…
Thanks for the recipe! I bought 4oz metal tins from Michaels to store it in so that I don't have to worry about dropping a glass jar in the shop. And they're small enough that It won't hurt to give one away with a board. Cheers!
I use rattlesnake venom on my board, and pufferfish poison mixed with a little bit of black mamba venom..works like a charm..never had a customer call back or complain.
I've made many cutting boards and think your video and advice is excellent. Your response to the real jerks that like to throw their worthless comments out there shows you are a class act. It takes real courage to keep from telling them they are just uncouth idiots!
I made myself a butcher board wax, today. I used equal parts of flax oil and olive oil and a silver dollar sized pellet of beeswax. I mixed them together and filled a half pint jelly jar with it. I used the remainder to coat my daughters very nice end grain cutting board. All of the oils are food safe. I rubbed it into the wood and buffed it off with a dry cotton towel. It did a good job. The wax coating has solidified and it can be wiped on the board, as needed. I probably could have used more oil with the beeswax but if it gets to hard she can microwave it for a few seconds to thin it out a bit. I put a bunch of flax oil on the board before I put the wax on it.
I have used the bee's wax and carnuba mixture but I leave it on for about fifteen minutes and buff it out with my random orbital sander and a buffing pad makes a great finish
Great video! I'm currently following these instructions and bought a bar of 1 oz (by weight) white bee's wax. I grated it on a cheese grater and measured 10 rounded teaspoons. This ends up being about half the size of the 1oz bar. Just FYI.
I suggest checking out Tung oil. It dries up after it soaks in and is much more resilient to washings. A pro mix for general wood finishing is 50/50 tung and boiled linseed. You can add wax for a finishing compound as well. Somewhere between a 1:4-1:2 ratio of wax:oil. The more oil the softer and more lubricating it will be, but for warmer environments, this might be a bit soft. I would start around a 1:4 and if it feels too soft to re-melt it and add some more wax. I also suggest buying wax in pellets. Wax tends to want to stick to things, and I wouldn't want to have to wash wax off my grater. The pro mix I mentioned is food safe. Both tung oil and boiled linseed oil are food safe. You could try swapping linseed for mineral oil, but different oils have different properties. The pros have made their decisions for a reason. For me, if it's food safe, I'll go with the pro formula. Or do sufficient testing to prove to me that my other formula is superior in some way than an industry of professional woodworkers. My new hinoki cutting board is going to love me, long time! 😉
In about a month we're going to be putting in a kitchen island with a butcher block counter top. You're video has helped me plan better, thank you. By the way Love your hair cut, I think we have the same barber!
Hi, I am so glad there video is helpful. Good luck with your project! Ha! i like your barber joke. My barber is a Gillette Mach 3 razor. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew
Awesome, thank you!!! I bought a brand new cutting board from a restaurant supply company and I paid good money for it. And it's starting to get spots that aren't looking good and I have knife marks that regular use of mineral oil doesn't seem to be doing it so thank you very much for giving the recipe for the wax I have beeswax and I'm going to fix my cutting board up!
Search Amazon for a "canning funnel". They're cheap and made to fit Mason jars. It makes pouring anything into a Mason jar a lot easier and less messy. Great video. I learned some useful info. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My first comment ever on youtube and it's a rhetorical question: How do you not have over 100,000 subscribers? The best, to the point and extra-informative video on this topic. Thank you.
Hi. Really concise videos. They are great. I have a question. For the first few coats of mineral oil, how long should you leave to dry between each coat? Then, how long before the final top coat of wax / oil mix is added? Many thanks from the UK
Mineral oil never dries, it just gets absorbed. If you're rubbing it on it'll depend on how tight the grain is, but an easy way to check for full saturation is to just give a surface a light coat and wait - if the shiny layer gets absorbed anywhere... add more, once it stops sucking it in, wipe off everything and you're good to move on immediately.
Andrew, thank you for sharing this finish for the cutting board. I've made cutting boards and always used only mineral oil. I'm going to use your finishing method!! Thanks, so much!
Absolutely The best video out there on making and applying oil and cutting board cream. Just put a link in the section under Video for beeswax and carnuba wax. Food grade mineral oil is pretty easy to find on Amazon.
Very interesting video. Have made a few boards and didn’t know a lot of what you showed. Like the glue type and grain position. I’ll remember these on the next board I make.
A huge thank you for the video (and recipe). I am making some wooden salt cellars and I made this today and it's amazing. Not only looks great but gives a bit of a silky feel to the surface.
We saturadated the acacia wood with food grade mineral oil and let it soak through for several applications. Then used a Howard's conditioner. Going to tray your formula over what's already been done. Hopefully it will work
Hi, That should work fine The wax should be able to build up over you existing finish. Thanks so much for viewing, glad could help you maintain in your beautiful project! -Andrew
Caddywpus, Did you put any finish on top of your stained wood. I always use some type of polyurethane and then 4 to 5 coats of paste wax on top of that. I’m notorious for getting glue spills and everything else on my workbenches and it just helps in the cleanup process .
I was so impressed and inspired with your video and knowledge that I ordered the necessary ingredients and followed your instructions diligently and made a batch of the second mix (6 Ounces of mineral oil, 5 rounded teaspoons of organic white beeswax pellets, and 5 rounded teaspoons of organic carnauba wax.) However, when the mixture solidified, it was so hard that it made it impossible to apply. No matter how hard I try to rub the wax onto the cloth, practically nothing sticks to it. I realize that using measurements such as teaspoons or tablespoons is inexact that perhaps I mixed in more carnauba flakes than what your recipe requires. I would like to know if there is a way I could save the batch I have already made, such as reheating it and adding a little more mineral oil or beeswax? Thanks
Hi Vidal, Thanks so much! I am glad you enjoyed the video. My hope was to answer some of the unanswered and unasked questions regarding cutting boards. You can see a portfolio of my other work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. Thanks for watching and commenting. -Andrew
They sell 2 oz. and 4 oz. low height cabs with lids like shoe polish cans on Amazon and they're pretty cheap in bulk. I think it would be easier using them to get the solified mixture out and onto the board!
i bought a crock pot at a thrift store for $8. I use that to melt my beeswax and oil mixture. It's a lot safer in my opinion that the hot plate and double boiler method.
That's a good idea. I bought a ~$10 mini crock pot at Kmart about 8-10 yrs ago I never used. Now I have a reason to unbox it And it will still he food safe if I ever do get around to cooking in a mini crock pot. 🙂
Started out thinking, oh just buy Howard's oil and wax mixture, which is what I've been using . . . but it's so runny that it takes hours to dry and soak in before you can buff it. So I seldom use and my boards tend to get dried out. This paste wax is much thicker and quicker, could use it often.
Hi Jim, Thanks so much! I am glad you enjoyed the video. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. Happy holidays. -Andrew
great video, thanks for sharing. Couple of questions if you don't mind. 1) when using bees wax are you concerned with food allergies? If a bee takes nectar from a nut blossom it transfers it to the honey, wax and it's stinger. 2) Do you sell your oil/wax mixture?
Actual beeswax allergies are almost non-existent; most cases where people think they have allergic reactions to beeswax tend to actually be allergic reactions to propolis; a sort of glue/insulation that bees make from collecting tree resins. Cheap beeswax products may have propolis mixed in, but foodsafe products should be pure and free from it.
Very nice video. One minor correction (from Tightbond): "Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards." So no, all you people who made cutting boards wth Tightbond II don't have to throw your cutting boards away. . .
Hi Darryl, Thanks! I bet those cutting boards have lasted for years too! Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew
I would bet that first recipe would be great for chalk paint finish also instead of paying $25 for a little bottle of Wax. is Johnson & Johnson floor wax but if you were using it for something that you were going to use for food you sure wouldn't want to use that, but it works great for a cabinet
Great video. Would take this time to remind folks to never put wood in dishwasher or to let wood sit in water. Also apply this finish on all raw kitchen wood. A waterseal like Tompsons for exterior wood.
Hi Mark, Thanks for the compliment! I am glad you enjoyed the video. You can view a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. there are some free downloads there too! -Andrew
Hi Mark, Thanks for the compliment! I am glad you enjoyed the video. You can view a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. there are some free downloads there too! -Andrew
Hi Tony, Thanks! cutting boards are a lot of fun. I hope these videos help with your next project. You can always contact me with questions on the contact page of my website, anamericanartisan.com -Andrew
Love this! Do you have any suggestions for the best way to clean the cotton cloths after using this paste? I don't want the wax ingredients to ruin my washer or clog the hoses.
With my cast iron I keep a rag in my lard jar till it looks like it’s time for a new one. I believe I will do the same with my mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. A rag is definitely not worth washing and ruining your washer, just throw it away and rip off a new one.
Thank you for this video. I enjoyed it very much. Tell me why you 1st apply it to the end grains. I do have some concerns about mineral oil and I'm going to try of version of this with coconut oil and beeswax. Thanks again and please share any thoughts you have regarding end grain and coconut oil. Yake good care and this is an excellent video!
So glad you enjoyed the video. I tend to apply finish to the end grain first because it soaks up faster than the face of the cutting board. I often end up re-applyong to the end grain after applying finish to the face. Coconut oil sounds like an interesting idea and I will have to look into it. I have received a few comments expressing concerns about mineral oil being a petroleum distillate. I have yet to find a good substitute My concern about using other oils(olive oil, vegetable oil) is that they have fatt that could spoil or encourage bacteria. I do not know if coconut oil could have the same problem. Let me know how your project works out! -Andrew
@@anamericanartisan9846 Wow, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Yes I read through all your comments and saw several other concerns about coconut although I didn't think they were very considerately expressed. Here is what I do know. I've been a massage therapist for 40 years and I've used many different oils as my massage lubricant. Probably for the last 7 years I've used coconut oil almost exclusively. It tends to have a shelf life, beyond what the manufacturer states, of 4 to 5 years. Other oils I have used could be 6 months or less. So, in that regard, I think there's a good possibility that your main concern about the fats may not be on the same scale as with less stable oils. Another alternative would be jojoba oil. It isn't actually an oil: it's a liquid wax and therefore it never goes rancid. So that might be an even better solution, although I'm not sure if refined or unrefined would be best. I do use the unrefined jojoba oil in my massage practice because it's more nutrient rich and the skin is very absorbent. For the same reason, I use unrefined coconut oil in my practice although it has a higher melting point and requires some heating except on warm days in the summer. I think the unrefined versions tend to have a little bit longer shelf life because there is a higher concentration of antioxidants and other natural plant substances designed to keep the plant intact as long as possible. Anyway, thanks for your comment and explanation of why you start with the end grain too. I appreciate how thoughtful you are to comment back. Take good care!
I just saw some crazy research with board oil. Mineral oil is no longer my preffered product. Tung oil is. I watched a comparison of various oils. Tung oil dries up, so once it gets into those nooks and cranies, it solidifies and stays in place while remaining soft and plyable. Mineral oil by comparison stays fluid and is readily stripped in cleaning. What it all means is a much longer lasting finish on your board and less time spent re applying oil.
Hi Joe, A lot of Woodworkers will wet the board with warm water to raise the grain for the final sand before applying their first coat of finish. This will minimize the amount of grain raising that happens after the cutting board's first use. Don't panic if it still happens a bit after the first use, just knock it down with 400 grit paper and apply the wax mixture. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com -Andrew
After applying the oil and wax, can you start cutting food on the board right away? Do you need to let it sit for awhile or wash the board first with soap before use?
Hi Stephen, If you have access to a table saw you can make a cutting board. It's important that you have a spring joint tas detailed in the previous video. You may spend a bit more time arranging the boards that so you done with access to more tools but you can make it work. Instead of the planer you will flatten your board with a belt sander, followed by an orbital sander. If you don't have a belt sander you can still use an orbital but it will take you a while. The worst thing t bgg at would happen is that your cutting board would not be perfectly flat but you can screw on some feet to compensate for that. The only consequence is that it would be a one side cutting board. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. There are free downloads there too! -Andrew
@@marlinmelendez-laboymrs.pr9573 Hi Your will get the best price on the wood if you find a local source. I would search for kiln dried hardwood in your area. If you don't find anything you can get it from Woodcraft. I left a link below. Thanks for for watching and commenting. Good luck with your project. -Andrew www.woodcraft.com/products/exotic-cutting-board-kit-large
Hi Tim, Thanks so much! So glad you enjoyed the video. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew
I have an old cutting block that belong to my wife’s great grandfather, she wants me to restore it so we can use it, but it has some cracks that needs to be filled , what can i use that would be food safe?
In some parts of the world we don't really use the term mineral oil. We call it medicinal paraffin, paraffin oil, etc, always has paraffin in it. The food grade one is sold for wine making, to prevent oxidization. To be 100% sure is that the 'mineral oil' you used here? :) Thank you.
Pro tip, turn a hair dryer on directed at the board while spreading this :) Makes it way easier to not use too much and the soaking is faster. In the end I did find food grade paraffin oil but the Origin said 'India' ( :S ) so I mixed the cera alba with hemp oil. I know plant oils can go rancid but previous bottles I had didn't go bad for 3+ years after expiration date so I'm pretty confident this will be fine :) Certainly won't make my mind wander like Indian oil...
will that wax and mineral oil mixture change or become less effective with time? or maybe harden up? i plan on making some cutting boards as gifts and i feel like adding a jar along with the board would really tie the gift together.
Hi, Most people I know who use a "bath" of oil to conserve oil just dip it in and allow it to drip dry. I could imagine that leaving it submerged for a minute or two on the first coat could help the oil soak in deeper. I doubt it would help much on the following coats. Good luck with your project. If you experiment with soaking time let me know own what you find. Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com There are some free downloads there too. -Andrew
An American Artisan Brilliant, thank you so much for such a quick reply. I’ve always been quite a keen diyer and have been branching out my woodworking skills, mainly inspired by videos like yours. 😀
@@margaritaventura7198 If you don’t protect the wood you can run the risk of contamination in the wood fibers. That’s what I’ve been told. Hopefully this helps, you can always reach out to me if you run into any problems. Take Care
The video is worth watching in it's entirety. Thank you. For those who want the recipe measurements: 6 ounces of mineral oil to 10 rounded teaspoons of beeswax. If you want a shinier surface, 6 ounces of mineral oil to 5 rounded teaspoons of beeswax and 5 rounded carnauba wax. Great video. I'm going to restore a 1960s cutting board that was in a kitchen we remodeled. We wanted to save something as a bit of nostalgia.
Hi ,
Thank you so much for your comments. I am happy that you enjoyed the video. Good luck with restoring that cutting board. It sounds like a great project.
-Andrew
Thank you !
This is fantastic, thank you. Gonna get the 2'x2'x1" teak project board at Lowes and do up a cutting board for $47.
But this wouldn't be RUclips without a little commenter nitpicking. 😉 The combination of beeswax and mineral oil isn't an emulsion. Both oil and wax are nonpolar bonded molecules. "Like dissolves like" therefore it's just a mixture. This is why oil can cut through oil-based messes and water can cut through water-based messes.
Nonpolar oil blended into a very polar water is an emulsion. But oil into wax is a mixture.
OK. Thanks. 🙂
I am getting ready to cut up several slabs of “Pecan Wood” from a tree that my dad planted about 45+ yrs. ago…The tree had to be removed for property improvements…I had it professionally milled and it’s been in my shed for over 5 yrs. waiting for me to do something with it…I’ve decided to make all cutting boards with it…I am going to mix in some other hardwoods like the ones that you recommended…I also liked the idea for the finish that you recommended…I wrote it down and hope to use it…Thanks for your info…
Thanks for the recipe! I bought 4oz metal tins from Michaels to store it in so that I don't have to worry about dropping a glass jar in the shop. And they're small enough that It won't hurt to give one away with a board. Cheers!
I use rattlesnake venom on my board, and pufferfish poison mixed with a little bit of black mamba venom..works like a charm..never had a customer call back or complain.
"This mixture"! lol
I get it...because they're all dead.
I've made many cutting boards and think your video and advice is excellent. Your response to the real jerks that like to throw their worthless comments out there shows you are a class act. It takes real courage to keep from telling them they are just uncouth idiots!
I’m so glad you shared this video with us , I’m a beginner at 76 just about to make a cutting for my daughter !!🤩👏🇺🇸🎄
Robert, now I don't feel so bad.. I thought I was a "late bloomer" by starting woodworking at 49. Good on ya !!
Finally learned what a double boiler does - thanks! 🤣🤣
Excellent! Thank you. Came here to learn how to shine my cutting boards.
I made myself a butcher board wax, today. I used equal parts of flax oil and olive oil and a silver dollar sized pellet of beeswax. I mixed them together and filled a half pint jelly jar with it. I used the remainder to coat my daughters very nice end grain cutting board. All of the oils are food safe. I rubbed it into the wood and buffed it off with a dry cotton towel. It did a good job. The wax coating has solidified and it can be wiped on the board, as needed. I probably could have used more oil with the beeswax but if it gets to hard she can microwave it for a few seconds to thin it out a bit. I put a bunch of flax oil on the board before I put the wax on it.
I have used the bee's wax and carnuba mixture but I leave it on for about fifteen minutes and buff it out with my random orbital sander and a buffing pad makes a great finish
Great video! I'm currently following these instructions and bought a bar of 1 oz (by weight) white bee's wax. I grated it on a cheese grater and measured 10 rounded teaspoons. This ends up being about half the size of the 1oz bar. Just FYI.
I suggest checking out Tung oil. It dries up after it soaks in and is much more resilient to washings.
A pro mix for general wood finishing is 50/50 tung and boiled linseed. You can add wax for a finishing compound as well. Somewhere between a 1:4-1:2 ratio of wax:oil. The more oil the softer and more lubricating it will be, but for warmer environments, this might be a bit soft. I would start around a 1:4 and if it feels too soft to re-melt it and add some more wax. I also suggest buying wax in pellets. Wax tends to want to stick to things, and I wouldn't want to have to wash wax off my grater.
The pro mix I mentioned is food safe. Both tung oil and boiled linseed oil are food safe. You could try swapping linseed for mineral oil, but different oils have different properties. The pros have made their decisions for a reason. For me, if it's food safe, I'll go with the pro formula. Or do sufficient testing to prove to me that my other formula is superior in some way than an industry of professional woodworkers.
My new hinoki cutting board is going to love me, long time! 😉
I am new to making cutting boards, great information, thank you very much!
In about a month we're going to be putting in a kitchen island with a butcher block counter top. You're video has helped me plan better, thank you. By the way Love your hair cut, I think we have the same barber!
Hi,
I am so glad there video is helpful. Good luck with your project!
Ha! i like your barber joke. My barber is a Gillette Mach 3 razor.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com
There are some free downloads there too.
-Andrew
Awesome, thank you!!! I bought a brand new cutting board from a restaurant supply company and I paid good money for it. And it's starting to get spots that aren't looking good and I have knife marks that regular use of mineral oil doesn't seem to be doing it so thank you very much for giving the recipe for the wax I have beeswax and I'm going to fix my cutting board up!
Search Amazon for a "canning funnel". They're cheap and made to fit Mason jars. It makes pouring anything into a Mason jar a lot easier and less messy.
Great video. I learned some useful info. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
I bought my canning funnel at Walmart. Cheaper and no shipping.
Thank you so much. I just received my customized chopping board with my name on it. This is a great idea to keep it away from food stains.
Great amount of knowledge here, thank you for sharing your experience through this well executed video, and with the plus of no music, many thanks
My first comment ever on youtube and it's a rhetorical question: How do you not have over 100,000 subscribers? The best, to the point and extra-informative video on this topic. Thank you.
Hi
Thanks so much. We will get to 100k eventually.
Spread the word.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
Andrew
Love it!!! I am going to try it!!! Could you burn words in or some how get words on it?
Redefining the term “mind your bees wax” - Great tutorial!
Great tips. Looking forward to improving my cutting boards with this information……. Thanks for sharing
Watching this in 2022 and it's still super helpful! TFS
Hi. Really concise videos. They are great. I have a question. For the first few coats of mineral oil, how long should you leave to dry between each coat? Then, how long before the final top coat of wax / oil mix is added?
Many thanks from the UK
Mineral oil never dries, it just gets absorbed. If you're rubbing it on it'll depend on how tight the grain is, but an easy way to check for full saturation is to just give a surface a light coat and wait - if the shiny layer gets absorbed anywhere... add more, once it stops sucking it in, wipe off everything and you're good to move on immediately.
Andrew, thank you for sharing this finish for the cutting board. I've made cutting boards and always used only mineral oil. I'm going to use your finishing method!! Thanks, so much!
Tung oil is a superior food safe oil. It dries in place, so once it soaks in and dries up, it survives washing in the kitchen much better.
Absolutely The best video out there on making and applying oil and cutting board cream. Just put a link in the section under Video for beeswax and carnuba wax. Food grade mineral oil is pretty easy to find on Amazon.
Very interesting video. Have made a few boards and didn’t know a lot of what you showed. Like the glue type and grain position. I’ll remember these on the next board I make.
Thank you so much for the video,That’s exactly what I was looking for
A huge thank you for the video (and recipe). I am making some wooden salt cellars and I made this today and it's amazing. Not only looks great but gives a bit of a silky feel to the surface.
Good job! Would you post where you buy the food safe beeswax? I can't find it online. 👍
They are beautiful boards. Like the one on our left especially. Nope can't decide which one I like best.
A MOST EXCELLENT video!!! Thanks - So Much - for sharing your knowledge and expertise!
Love what you do, keep it up
Thank you for posting the video 👍
We saturadated the acacia wood with food grade mineral oil and let it soak through for several applications. Then used a Howard's conditioner. Going to tray your formula over what's already been done. Hopefully it will work
Hi,
That should work fine The wax should be able to build up over you existing finish.
Thanks so much for viewing, glad could help you maintain in your beautiful project!
-Andrew
Wow! Great video!!! 🤩 Thank you!
Caddywpus,
Did you put any finish on top of your stained wood. I always use some type of polyurethane and then 4 to 5 coats of paste wax on top of that. I’m notorious for getting glue spills and everything else on my workbenches and it just helps in the cleanup process .
I use a 4:1 mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. I let it sit overnight and then hit it with a heat gun to bring out the shine.
Thank you Sir for providing a solution I was looking for.
Nice videos. Very helpful and good delivery. Easy to understand but not drawn out too long. Will def watch more.
Thank you for the information and recipe for making the cutting board wax. I am going to provide some with every cutting board I make.
Thanks for commenting!
Really good video, very helpful, thanks so much
Excellent! Now a question... can I stain the wood before applying mineral oil?
Thanks for the great videos.
How long would that wax mixture last in a mason jar with a good seal?
Now i feel ready to make Cutting Boards, thank you
I was so impressed and inspired with your video and knowledge that I ordered the necessary ingredients and followed your instructions diligently and made a batch of the second mix (6 Ounces of mineral oil, 5 rounded teaspoons of organic white beeswax pellets, and 5 rounded teaspoons of organic carnauba wax.) However, when the mixture solidified, it was so hard that it made it impossible to apply. No matter how hard I try to rub the wax onto the cloth, practically nothing sticks to it. I realize that using measurements such as teaspoons or tablespoons is inexact that perhaps I mixed in more carnauba flakes than what your recipe requires. I would like to know if there is a way I could save the batch I have already made, such as reheating it and adding a little more mineral oil or beeswax? Thanks
warm it up- spreads like butter.
Wow, great video. I mean there's lots of cutting board videos on RUclips but this is geek level (in a good way ;-)
Hi Vidal,
Thanks so much! I am glad you enjoyed the video. My hope was to answer some of the unanswered and unasked questions regarding cutting boards.
You can see a portfolio of my other work on my website anamericanartisan.com
There are some free downloads there too. Thanks for watching and commenting.
-Andrew
They sell 2 oz. and 4 oz. low height cabs with lids like shoe polish cans on Amazon and they're pretty cheap in bulk. I think it would be easier using them to get the solified mixture out and onto the board!
Great video! Perfect content (excellent natural finishes), great direct presentation (clear and to the point). Doing it right👍
i bought a crock pot at a thrift store for $8. I use that to melt my beeswax and oil mixture. It's a lot safer in my opinion that the hot plate and double boiler method.
That's a good idea. I bought a ~$10 mini crock pot at Kmart about 8-10 yrs ago I never used. Now I have a reason to unbox it And it will still he food safe if I ever do get around to cooking in a mini crock pot. 🙂
I used a crock pot to make my first batch, worked great. Exactly how much wax in oz do you think was added to 6 oz of mineral .
We only had 8oz jam jars and they are perfect for this. Just made my first mix. Thanks for the info
Hi Super widget,
Sorry I missedour comment . So glad you like the recipe!
-Andrew
Thanks for the video. Where can I find that "purely white Waxwerks Beeswax"???
Started out thinking, oh just buy Howard's oil and wax mixture, which is what I've been using . . . but it's so runny that it takes hours to dry and soak in before you can buff it. So I seldom use and my boards tend to get dried out. This paste wax is much thicker and quicker, could use it often.
Great video. Really useful information and very well presented. Thank you!
Hi Jim,
Thanks so much! I am glad you enjoyed the video.
You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com
There are some free downloads there too.
Happy holidays.
-Andrew
Thanks for the great tutorial 😁👍
Hello
Great video
And lovely cutting boards
Can I ask what moisture content the wood has to be before glue up.
Thanks very much
great video, thanks for sharing. Couple of questions if you don't mind. 1) when using bees wax are you concerned with food allergies? If a bee takes nectar from a nut blossom it transfers it to the honey, wax and it's stinger. 2) Do you sell your oil/wax mixture?
Actual beeswax allergies are almost non-existent; most cases where people think they have allergic reactions to beeswax tend to actually be allergic reactions to propolis; a sort of glue/insulation that bees make from collecting tree resins. Cheap beeswax products may have propolis mixed in, but foodsafe products should be pure and free from it.
I agree! this is an excellent video with great info (not easily found and demonstrated on the Internet machine). Also, great gut!
Very nice video. One minor correction (from Tightbond): "Titebond III Ultimate Wood Glue and Titebond II Premium Wood Glue have both been approved for indirect food contact. For this reason, it is the glue that we recommend for making cutting boards."
So no, all you people who made cutting boards wth Tightbond II don't have to throw your cutting boards away. . .
It'd be cool to have links to the products you are using
Great videos
More great info. Great recipe, I will totally use this.
Thanks again. This is my favorite wax recipe.
-Andrew
How long do you wait between applications of mineral oil for the initial 3 coats?
In the boards I make I put the oil/wax on warm and let it soak overnight then wipe off any excess.
Best video ..Can we mix linseed oil & beeswax together to make the finish.
Which is better white beeswax or yellow beeswax??
Very informative.
I always enjoy your Vids Andrew! Learning is a life long process. I enjoy all you have to offer.
Thanks Tom!
Perfect, exactly what i've been doing for years
Hi Darryl,
Thanks! I bet those cutting boards have lasted for years too!
Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com
There are some free downloads there too.
-Andrew
I would bet that first recipe would be great for chalk paint finish also instead of paying $25 for a little bottle of Wax. is Johnson & Johnson floor wax but if you were using it for something that you were going to use for food you sure wouldn't want to use that, but it works great for a cabinet
Great video. Would take this time to remind folks to never put wood in dishwasher or to let wood sit in water. Also apply this finish on all raw kitchen wood. A waterseal like Tompsons for exterior wood.
Very informative and nicely done. Thanks!
Great video mate, beautiful finishes on those boards.
Hi Mark,
Thanks for the compliment! I am glad you enjoyed the video.
You can view a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. there are some free downloads there too!
-Andrew
Hi Mark,
Thanks for the compliment! I am glad you enjoyed the video.
You can view a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. there are some free downloads there too!
-Andrew
Very well done! Thanks for the tips.
Hi Tony,
Thanks! cutting boards are a lot of fun. I hope these videos help with your next project.
You can always contact me with questions on the contact page of my website, anamericanartisan.com
-Andrew
Very helpful. Thank you.
Great Video, very helpful !! Thanks a lot.......
Thanks for the tutorial!! Do you know approximately what the 10 rounded teaspoons of beeswax is in weight? I got the bar of wax..
Now that is a helpful lesson! Thanks so much for the video.
Hi Anthony,
Don't know how I missed your comment. Thanks so much!
-Andrew
Love this! Do you have any suggestions for the best way to clean the cotton cloths after using this paste? I don't want the wax ingredients to ruin my washer or clog the hoses.
With my cast iron I keep a rag in my lard jar till it looks like it’s time for a new one. I believe I will do the same with my mixture of mineral oil and beeswax. A rag is definitely not worth washing and ruining your washer, just throw it away and rip off a new one.
Can you use these type of finishes on butch block kitchen counter tops?
Thank you for this video. I enjoyed it very much. Tell me why you 1st apply it to the end grains. I do have some concerns about mineral oil and I'm going to try of version of this with coconut oil and beeswax. Thanks again and please share any thoughts you have regarding end grain and coconut oil. Yake good care and this is an excellent video!
So glad you enjoyed the video. I tend to apply finish to the end grain first because it soaks up faster than the face of the cutting board. I often end up re-applyong to the end grain after applying finish to the face.
Coconut oil sounds like an interesting idea and I will have to look into it. I have received a few comments expressing concerns about mineral oil being a petroleum distillate. I have yet to find a good substitute
My concern about using other oils(olive oil, vegetable oil) is that they have fatt that could spoil or encourage bacteria. I do not know if coconut oil could have the same problem.
Let me know how your project works out!
-Andrew
@@anamericanartisan9846 Wow, thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Yes I read through all your comments and saw several other concerns about coconut although I didn't think they were very considerately expressed.
Here is what I do know. I've been a massage therapist for 40 years and I've used many different oils as my massage lubricant. Probably for the last 7 years I've used coconut oil almost exclusively. It tends to have a shelf life, beyond what the manufacturer states, of 4 to 5 years. Other oils I have used could be 6 months or less. So, in that regard, I think there's a good possibility that your main concern about the fats may not be on the same scale as with less stable oils. Another alternative would be jojoba oil. It isn't actually an oil: it's a liquid wax and therefore it never goes rancid. So that might be an even better solution, although I'm not sure if refined or unrefined would be best. I do use the unrefined jojoba oil in my massage practice because it's more nutrient rich and the skin is very absorbent. For the same reason, I use unrefined coconut oil in my practice although it has a higher melting point and requires some heating except on warm days in the summer. I think the unrefined versions tend to have a little bit longer shelf life because there is a higher concentration of antioxidants and other natural plant substances designed to keep the plant intact as long as possible.
Anyway, thanks for your comment and explanation of why you start with the end grain too. I appreciate how thoughtful you are to comment back. Take good care!
@@craiglozzi5391
Thanks so much for your detailed reply. I think you are on to something here. Let me know how it goes.
Andrew
Coconut oil doesn't get rancid. Food safe and can be easily reapplied.
Great vid thanks. Cannot wait to try this
Hi Pizza Warlord,
Thanks!
-Andrew
Would you ever come back and sand the surface smooth again? Say after some rough use leaving many knife marks?
That's the best part about thick cutting boards, you can sand them down and refinish with oil. A good board could last a lifetime.
I use General Finishes Salad Bowl Finish- lasts a lot longer and is food safe.
Great video, thanks for posting.
I just saw some crazy research with board oil.
Mineral oil is no longer my preffered product. Tung oil is.
I watched a comparison of various oils. Tung oil dries up, so once it gets into those nooks and cranies, it solidifies and stays in place while remaining soft and plyable. Mineral oil by comparison stays fluid and is readily stripped in cleaning. What it all means is a much longer lasting finish on your board and less time spent re applying oil.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge I learned a lot from your videos.
Hi 2 Shoes,
Thanks so much! Glad you enjoyed the video.
You can see a portfolio of my work on my website, anamericanartisan.com
-Andrew
Beautiful work and thanks for the video! How do you raise the grain before final sanding to keep the board real smooth, even after washing.?
Hi Joe,
A lot of Woodworkers will wet the board with warm water to raise the grain for the final sand before applying their first coat of finish. This will minimize the amount of grain raising that happens after the cutting board's first use. Don't panic if it still happens a bit after the first use, just knock it down with 400 grit paper and apply the wax mixture.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com
-Andrew
Thanks a lot! I sure appreciate it!
After applying the oil and wax, can you start cutting food on the board right away? Do you need to let it sit for awhile or wash the board first with soap before use?
Great video! My question is how, can I make one without a plainer and joiner?
Hi Stephen,
If you have access to a table saw you can make a cutting board. It's important that you have a spring joint tas detailed in the previous video. You may spend a bit more time arranging the boards that so you done with access to more tools but you can make it work.
Instead of the planer you will flatten your board with a belt sander, followed by an orbital sander. If you don't have a belt sander you can still use an orbital but it will take you a while.
The worst thing t bgg at would happen is that your cutting board would not be perfectly flat but you can screw on some feet to compensate for that. The only consequence is that it would be a one side cutting board.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com. There are free downloads there too!
-Andrew
An American Artisan hello there! Do you have information about where to buy online a wood bundle for cutting boards?!
@@marlinmelendez-laboymrs.pr9573
Hi
Your will get the best price on the wood if you find a local source. I would search for kiln dried hardwood in your area.
If you don't find anything you can get it from Woodcraft. I left a link below. Thanks for for watching and commenting. Good luck with your project.
-Andrew
www.woodcraft.com/products/exotic-cutting-board-kit-large
Appreciate the awesome information thank you you have a blessed day
Hi Tim,
Thanks so much! So glad you enjoyed the video.
You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com
There are some free downloads there too.
-Andrew
I have an old cutting block that belong to my wife’s great grandfather, she wants me to restore it so we can use it, but it has some cracks that needs to be filled , what can i use that would be food safe?
Well done
Do you need to wet the wood first to release the little fibers, then sand that before putting oil on it?
Great videos
Cheers
Tim from Wood4nothing
I have heard you can use walrus oil to eliminate this step. Thoughts ?
In some parts of the world we don't really use the term mineral oil. We call it medicinal paraffin, paraffin oil, etc, always has paraffin in it. The food grade one is sold for wine making, to prevent oxidization. To be 100% sure is that the 'mineral oil' you used here? :) Thank you.
Pro tip, turn a hair dryer on directed at the board while spreading this :) Makes it way easier to not use too much and the soaking is faster.
In the end I did find food grade paraffin oil but the Origin said 'India' ( :S ) so I mixed the cera alba with hemp oil. I know plant oils can go rancid but previous bottles I had didn't go bad for 3+ years after expiration date so I'm pretty confident this will be fine :) Certainly won't make my mind wander like Indian oil...
Can you use the drugstore sells for a laxative. It’s definitely food grade ?
will that wax and mineral oil mixture change or become less effective with time? or maybe harden up? i plan on making some cutting boards as gifts and i feel like adding a jar along with the board would really tie the gift together.
Good question
Quick question please. If you created a mineral oil bath, how long would you leave the board in the bath before taking it out to drip dry? Cheers
Hi,
Most people I know who use a "bath" of oil to conserve oil just dip it in and allow it to drip dry.
I could imagine that leaving it submerged for a minute or two on the first coat could help the oil soak in deeper. I doubt it would help much on the following coats.
Good luck with your project. If you experiment with soaking time let me know own what you find.
Thanks for watching and commenting. You can see a portfolio of my work on my website anamericanartisan.com
There are some free downloads there too.
-Andrew
An American Artisan Brilliant, thank you so much for such a quick reply. I’ve always been quite a keen diyer and have been branching out my woodworking skills, mainly inspired by videos like yours. 😀
Do you need to apply bees wax/mineral oil after making a board or will mineral oil be sufficient?
Awesome video series like the 2 homemade version best Thank You for all your information.
Thanks Tom!
Sorry, I meant "Thanks Thom "
wrong spelling.
-Andrew
How about if I dont put oil what happen if I llaves plain???.
@@margaritaventura7198 If you don’t protect the wood you can run the risk of contamination in the wood fibers. That’s what I’ve been told. Hopefully this helps, you can always reach out to me if you run into any problems. Take Care