*WARNING!* There has been concern in the comments over using an old, rusted, or welded on air tank. I won't go into details here, but the bottom line is that you should use only tanks which are rated for the pressure you will be operating at and which are in good condition. Ideally you want a tank which was made recently with no rust, damage, or uncertified repairs. You also want a drain and to keep moisture out of the tank. If you have concerns about serviceability, consult an expert. Your own setup is your responsibility and I always encourage further research before you tackle a project like this. For extra safety you could also add another pressure relief valve in addition to the one on your compressor. Plus it's never a bad idea to have your air storage behind a barrier, in an outdoor enclosure, or in a separate room. While my setup has caused me no issues to date, I would rather encourage the utmost safety for all of you than take any risks. Thank you!
THIS IS A 100 lb propane tank. This tank is IN FACT AN OLD MISSILE SHELL FROM PEARL HARBOR AND THE PROPANE INDUSTRY TURNED THEM INTO TANKS. I'm sure. Ask the video creator what is the date at the top of this tank and he'll tell you anywhere from 1948 to 1960. This tank with hold AT LEAST 300 psi as the pressure relief valve on a propane tank pops off at 250 psi. Sorry for the long response but by being in the propane industry for almost 15 years, I thought this was crazy cool when I learned that info!!!
@@TheJcperla *Sigh.* This is a thick walled tank intended for high pressure gases and it is not going to split at a seam or anything like that. It had a pinhole leak from rust and were it going to explode from said leak it would have before I welded it back up. It sat around for years leaking gradually and never caused an explosion. It's only being filled to 125 PSI and even if you punched a big hole in it the tank is so heavy it would probably just fall over. If you heated this tank enough for it to explode with incredible force, then the degradation it has experienced thus far would not even be an important factor. If anything it might make it fail more safely by having a small hole to relieve pressure gradually. People see one thing on the internet about an air tank exploding and suddenly think they are experts. It's not that simple. This tank is not going to kill anybody unless someone tries to pressurize it to 2000 PSI and then shoots it. Even if it was a thin walled tank with a welded seam, unless the seam is what was rusting out, I'd tell you the same thing, because 125 PSI won't cause a pinhole from rust to turn into a gaping hole. Think about it. It literally causes the tank to leak down incredibly gradually and as the hole slowly grows over time it will only leak down faster. It will never reach a point of being explosive. /rant
I have a 60 gallon setting across my garage from my compressor with plain old air hose. Then on top of that I put an 80 Gallon tank up in the rafters in my garage and I run the entire system at 180 PSI and the air tank on my compressor is also an 80 Gallon. I run a sand blaster and need all the volume I can get. My compressor is a Porter Cable 220 volt single phase single lung belt driven. Been running this set up for over 15 years Knock on wood I have never blown a hose or a tank. I do however have an issue with drying the air. I really cannot afford an air dryer. I only do painting, polishing and sand blasting for myself but then again I am in Michigan the land of rust. I have done a couple small little things for some Amish friends that in trade give me veggies out of the garden or some fine cuts of pork or beef when they slaughter. Great Video man i will be subscribing. Thanks.
Wow badass setup! Thanks for the view and comment for sure. I really want to get a sand blaster in the near future. Volume definitely going to be a pain. Lots of waiting on refill. Moisture separation definitely an issue here in VT too. More than feel you on the rust issues! May you never blow a line. ;)
Man I am so appreciative for you making this video! I added an aux tank to my harborfreight 21 gallon and I was getting crazy PSI drops and couldn't figure it out. I had my tool hose going out from the aux and forgot the regulator! so much thanks bro! now its running like a champ and pressure stable!
@Anthony Aguilar no you don't. Just more volume. What I did to increase cfm on my ridgid 150psi was add another husky 8gallon from marketplace air compressor for 70 bucks (150 psi) and bought an additional 11 gal from harbor... Connected them all.... more than doubled my cfm and 4xs the volume while changing 1/4 hoses to 3/8 and using HIgh flow fittings
@@isabellaandivanasspoiledli5630 Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. I'm definitely going to add another tank infact my neighbor is giving me his husky 30 Gallon tank and I will be adding that to my 20 gallon hausfeld. You really know your stuff I really enjoyed your video also 👍💯
@@isabellaandivanasspoiledli5630 The cfm is from the compressor, adding tanks adds capacity for more runtime before pump runs. Adding capacity can also damage the motor/pumps from running too long and overheating. They frequently have a short duty cycle for that reason.
I have a 30 gal snap on compressor that works. I have a campbell and huasfeld 60 gal that I can't find parts for can you tell me how to hook them up together. So i wont run out of air Thanks .
Functionally operates just as it should ruclips.net/user/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Generally you would tap it and add a drain valve if it didn't already have one. When I was using it I would just disconnect and invert the tank occasionally.
Ok I just saw this, I bought mine over 12 yrs ago, same one, and never have any issues, they are awesome and I turned mine up to 165 psi, tank is rated for 170-175 psi, love mine
That's great! I should figure out how to turn mine up. The 125 PSI doesn't really cut it for me. I like mine overall, but it doesn't start worth a damn below freezing. I usually have to heat the oil and cylinder with a torch. XD
Well in this case on the extra tank. That's why it has the T junction with a regulator. You can buy pretty much everything I used at Harbor Freight or online. The exact fittings you'll need will vary, but I linked a ton in the description. Please check those out.
Why? Genuine question. Multiple people have suggested that, but both tanks are linked together and there is already a relief valve on the compressor. It is impossible for the secondary tank to exceed the pressure of the primary.
Oh I'm sorry I actually misread your comment. I thought you said "you should have" and followed by the question mark I thought maybe you were being rude. My bad!
That depends on how you have it all routed, because as long as it is hooked to the compressor, it could never exceed the pressure in the compressor, so there is already a safety valve in play. To be extra safe though, yes it would be smart to have a safety valve on the auxiliary as well, especially if it is portable.
I did this minus the second regulator but my motor still kicks on quick. I’ll use my da sander on it for about 2 minutes straight and then the more still turns on. Is that normal or what do I need to do different? I don’t want to burn my motor out. My air regulator is on my Husky 19 gallon if that will help you answer my question. Thanks
By not adding the second regulator, you are limiting the capacity of your auxiliary tank to however much air It holds at the pressure of your regulator on your compressor. So you should really get the second regulator to maximize your auxiliary capacity. That said, it sounds like your compressor really just doesn't have the CFM rating or max pressure rating to keep up with your sander. Eventually you will want to upgrade. Check with the CFM requirement of the sander is versus your compressor and if the sander requires more, then you should make sure you give your compressor a break sometimes.
Confirms my thoughts, I'll go with a T-fitting just before the regulator. Safes me the extra coupling and regulator. Still need the ball joint . Thanks
Makes sense to me! Good luck. Remember it's best practice to use a container in good shape with no rust, and to add an emergency release valve and drain fitting. :)
Question: Can I feed my air tools from the slave/expansion tank? My old 20 gal compressor died, so I’m buying a new, 60 gal compressor. Due to space restrictions and outlet placement, it’s easier to have the new compressor feed the smaller tank, which is connected to my air dryer system. Will this work?
Yes it will work you just need a regulator on your auxiliary tank. That said, I doubt you'll need the extra tank with your new compressor. Sounds like a massive upgrade. Unless you do constant work with air tools!
The biggest problems I have had so far are really just noise, long fill time, quickly running out of air, and not working well in the cold. It has been reliable, just far from perfect. Not sure I would buy one again. Either way, your input is appreciated and good to know about the oilless HF units. Thanks for commenting!
802 Garage I read the reviews and questions on the Lowes Kobalt 30 gallon Belt Drive compressor it has a great review and 3 year warranty I was thinking about getting one sometime in the near future because I need new compressor for my work and kobalt them self said they test it to duty cycle of 45 minutes continuous run but they recommend running it a 30 minute duty cycle. I know it is expensive compressor but belt drive compressors are known for their life span and I have had one at my home for at least 15 years though not kobalt brand and haven’t had any problems. it does not like the negative cold temperatures here in Maine though but I’ve been told by kobalt when I was looking at the questions that they recommend a full synthetic Mobile one version of oil and have been told Full synthetic is better in the cold. Though also my compressor doesn’t have full synthetic oil in it but I think it’s basically the motor is the issue because I have a bad start capacitor or a going start capacitor
No problem at all! This isn't a "perfect" setup, but it works. Let me know if you want to discuss any improvements or need tips for setup. Just note that you should also include a drain on the auxiliary tank if possible.
Is it required to run a regulator on both the main compressor and the tank? Could i just connect the compressor directly to the tank with no regulator and then have the regulator on the secondary tank
You do not need a regulator on both. You ideally want a safety valve on each vessel, but have at least one in the system for sure. You could have no regulator on either tank and put it on the end of a line where you actually hook up your tools. Really just depends on how you want to regulate. My setup of leaving the regulator on the compressor was not ideal, just easiest.
@@802Garage Sure...and many of those ratings are written by lawyers...like the screwdriver packaging that says must wear eye protection while using this tool. I've NEVER heard of an airtool failing from using 120-140psi...and I've looked and talked to a lot of techs in shops. Very few use any regulators. Air systems are typically tested and certified well over their intended uses. Like air tanks can frequently be tested to 250 or 300psi but that's where they STOP testing. PEX is "rated" for like 170psi...yet in real world testing will handle around 800-1200psi before bursting. So especially for a shop with generally long lines one will get better performance by having a higher pressure in tank/lines then regulate lower at the device/connection if desired. Which isn't normally needed. A regulator will restrict tool by design...so unless it's actually needed like painting etc there's not much requirement for most tools up to 150ish psi and they certainly won't be hurt by it. By the numbers 1/4" air lines should flow at least 25cfm...which is more than nearly all home/shop compressors...so why don't people run 1/4" lines everywhere??? Because in the real world...it just doesn't work well for many applications. If ya wanna get technical the manuals also tell you not to use an extension cord...clearly you and most do. Run it on a dedicated circuit, obviously most don't. Always use eye protection when using, most don't. At some point one has to use a bit of reasonable thinking skills and make your own decisions. Many of the manufacturers violate the same notations in their documentation. Corporations operate #1 on Liability and minimizing it.
It does not and it definitely should. Luckily the primary seems to collect most of the moisture. It's a pain, but if I want to empty it, I just tip it upside down, hah.
@@802Garage good idea. maybe take it into a radiator shop and have them weld a bung in bottom for a petcock valve. dual tank works great tho for painting with hvlp. Im gonna rig a relief valve in mine this spring just for peace of mind. take care..
@@forreststump11 Yeah I plan to get into much more painting next year. Hopefully I'll be upgrading my compressor, and if I keep using this tank I'll likely add a drain valve and a relief valve. Never bad to be safe, even though I think the odds of needing it are incredibly low. Thanks for the comments!
No, but ideally you should. In this setup it is impossible for the secondary tank to have more pressure than the primary and since the primary has a check valve it shouldn't really be an issue and it can theoretically back feed if pressure does rise dramatically though that depends on how well the regulator stops reverse flow. The auxiliary tank should also ideally have a drain.
Hmm I just added to my Makita portable compressor with a 10 gal aux tank for spraying paint. Really good idea about puting a t in the line before the compressors reg. I was also wondering if I can raise the psi at which the comp shuts off. should avoid running any motor that pulls more that 15 amps on any extension cord if at all possible
Def agreed an avoiding extension cord if possible! Typically you can adjust the regulator to raise the PSI for both cut in and cut off. Usually some screws you can adjust under the switch cover. Just keep in mind you will be adding stress to the motor and likely increasing overall duty cycle usage. Especially for something like painting, you may wear the compressor out much faster. Basically a your mileage may vary and do at your own risk set of mods!
I recently got rid of a 33 gallon tank because it was over 20 years old and I got it used 10 years ago and it had a lot of rust in it. I was concerned over the safety of a rusted tank. I don't want it to rupture. Do you know how must rust is in your tank?
I mean always good to err on the safe side. In my case the tank is thick enough and holding low enough pressure the chance of any catastrophic rupture is very low IMO. Thick tanks rated for compressed gas can handle air compressor pressures no problem. The thin walled seam welded tanks are the ones that like to explode from rust. That's my understanding at least. Mine def had rust at the bottom inside because it had the pinholes, but I welded them and filled the bottom with paint. I haven't used it for several years now but it still holds air fine.
Oh OK. I didn't know it was for compressed gas. however the pinholes sound scary. Check out on youtube the aftermath of compressor tank explosions. the amount of energy stored in a compressed tank is astonishing. When they blow apart they knock doors off the hinges and things like that. I tend to err on the side of safety because you only get one set of eyes, one life etc. @@802Garage
Not silly. The quick answer is yes. Propane tanks are rated for several hundred PSI. I would just make sure you aren't putting in more than 150-175 PSI, try to keep the air dry if you can, add a pressure relief valve to the tank, and don't have it in your work area if you can avoid it. Ideally you would want to add a moisture drain valve as well, or the tank will rust out from the inside. Basically, try to be safe about it, and you should technically mod the tank a bit.
Oh also you need to make sure it has absolutely no propane left. I don't really think it would be a huge issue in most cases if there was 1% propane, but again you want to be safe not sorry.
Love all the links in the description. Some people say they’ll be there and they aren’t so it’s hard to find the right stuff. Great simple vid, this was the design I was wanting to do but couldn’t find another video with the same simple design that also listed parts.
Glad to help! I try to be pretty diligent with my links. I actually updated these fairly recently too. Love the push to connect style fittings! You can get some of these components cheaper if you shop certain local stores, but Amazon is so convenient, hah.
You should have one somewhere on the system which sees whatever max pressure in the system is. So as long as your air compressor has one, you should be fine. Ideally you want on on any external tanks to, but specifically if they cannot back flow into the compressor.
@@802Garage it is one of my old cutting torch cylinders i use to use working on the road. I didnt want to get rid of it so i found a use for it since i have new bottles these days.
I know I'm 3 years late😂 great idea! As for your cold starting issue, a while back I purchased the 8 gallon version at harbor freight to have as a portable unit as tossing the 60 gallon 240v in the truck and going is out of the question. Since break in on the 8 gallon I've used husky full synthetic compressor oil which is equivalent to a sae 20w and have had no issues with start up down to 21 degrees F so far!
Hello fellow Aaron! I was using Royal Purple Synpower and I think it's an SAE 30, but seems to run a bit thick. I've actually switched to full synthetic 5W-30 engine oil and now I have zero cold start issues! Even at like 0F I think it was fine. This compressor is definitely getting old though and I dearly want to replace it. So loud!
@@802Garage I was taught that the "direct drive" are the super loud ones, and the ones with belt, pulley, etc. Are quiet. Seems to always ring true in my experience. And yes, loud one, they are OBNOXIOUS!!
@@dannytaylor5932 Yep I think as a general rule you are correct! Although some of the newer direct drive designs are intended to be quiet like the California air tools and they seem to work pretty well.
Man if it's already got a hole in it, I'd scrap it. To telling when that hole is gonna open up and you have a heavy metal rocket going thru the ceiling. Be safe brotha
I appreciate it, but this was years ago and it's still fine. If it fails it will be a slow leak not a catastrophic blowout. I haven't been using it lately anyways though. Thanks for the concern! I won't recommend anyone else do the same haha.
@@sethlogan9724 The chances of that happening at these pressure with a slow leak are incredibly low if not zero, but I appreciate the concern. I recommend everyone use sound tanks with pressure relief valves and keep it in a separate room. 😁
Watched about 15 videos and nobody can say what the size of the fitting is that goes directly from the air tank. I've heard it's 3/4 npt but can you confirm please
Not sure how much I can help, you just have to figure out what fittings you need. Using a T fitting or T coupler would probably be easiest for you. Something like this. One out goes to your auxiliary tank and one to your tool. amzn.to/3tCfsFh
It makes a world of a difference with an extra tank got the same air compressor went to Harbor Freight bought a 11 gallon portable air tank they call it took the fittings off of that ran a line know I have a 32 gallon tank
Yeah, it actually makes a huge difference! I'm going to be upgrading to a California Air Tools compressor because I'm sick of the noise the Harbor Freight compressor makes. That, and a reed valve finally went bad in mine. I replaced it with an old feeler gauge cut down to size, but who knows how long it will last. Replacement kits are cheap, but I want the new compressor anyways!
Hi, great vid I’m doing the same with an old tire inflation tank. In the video you say the reducer and tee are 3/8 but it looks like the tag on the tee says 1/4??
I believe you are correct. I screw up a lot when I talk about NPT fittings because the sizing is so weird relative to the naming. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Recently just got the 29 Gallon CENTRAL NEUMATIC 150 PSI Portable Air Compressor and am doing the 11 gallon portable reservoir tank so ill have 40 gallons, but I'd honestly like to have an additional 29, 30 or 33 reservoir tank to get me at the 60 gallon capacity (which seems to be GREAT for painting cars and running pretty much near anything, and theres also the 80 gallon tanks as well that are beasts) Anyways I also have the DeWalt Quadraport Air Line Splitter that has 2 ports both REGULATED and 2 ports that are NON REGULATED... Anyhow, im trying to figure out the best placement for the reservoir tank ...
Ideally you want the reserve tank and compressor tank to share an unregulated line and then wherever you attach your regulated and unregulated ports it doesn't matter. You could also attach your splitter directly to the compressor and attach one unregulated line to the reserve tank leaving one unregulated and two regulated lines for use. Hope that makes sense. Both tanks should also have their pressure leading to a pressure relieve valve, be it one common or two separate.
I have a question. You recommended putting a T fitting between the tank pressure gauge and the tool pressure gauge? I have mine coming out of the main output (connector on the Tool pressure gauge) to the Aux tank. Problem is I no longer can control tool pressure since now it controls the other tank filling and its hard as hell to turn that tool pressure gauge. I need to add a tool pressure gauge on the aux tank then. I thought about just hard connecting the main tank to the spare tank.
Ideally in a permanent setup, you just have one pressure regulator at the output of the auxiliary tank or anywhere that is connected to both supplies. The reason for the T fitting before the regulator on the compressor would be so that you don't have to turn that regulator all the way up any time you want to fill the secondary tank. Shouldn't be that hard to install, just a T fitting with the right connections and another female coupler. Hope that all makes sense! Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks for watching and commenting.
802 Garage It’s not a problem. I did get it all working. The new problem is I discovered that when my Kobalt tank gets too 155PSI, it turns off like it’s supposed too. But then, after a little while it drops to about 135PSI. Maybe overnight. It’s none of my fittings, because I took it all off to make sure. It’s like a super slow leak. When it gets to 155 tank PSI, it is supposed to stay there right? Should I return this?
It should stay there, yes. You just have a very small leak somewhere. I would guess it is one of the fittings. Use some soapy water and a spray bottle to find the leak!
802 Garage I did try to do that. I’ll do it again. There are no fittings other than a quick disconnect directly on the power switch right now to rule out my attachments. I can’t put pictures on this or I would. I will spray some more soapy water, see what happens. I was going to maybe upgrade my tank to a standup 60-80 gallon. But it’s going to cost$$$. I’m not sure how Limited I am with 5.5CFM VS a 15CFM compressor. I’m just a home hobbyist.
Could also be the drain valve or emergency release valve on your compressor. Yeah I would love to upgrade to a much bigger compressor, just don't have the money for that right now. I'm just a home gamer too, but more air would really be nice!
I have the sam HF AIR I COMPRESSOR....I want to do the same thing but my question is ...how or what keeps the auxiliary tank from over filling form the HF AIR COMPRESSOR... In other words keep it from exploding do I put a regulator on both sides the of the auxiliary air compressor input & on the output ..but for the output Definitely use a Regulator that's going directly to the tools to regulate the air pressure... Now especially on the input into Auxiliary air tanks i want to have the Harbor freight air compressor cut off when the auxiliary tank reaches it full air pressure.......what are you suggesting....thanks
Hello, thanks for commenting! You don't actually need to worry about the auxiliary tank overfilling. The air compressor will still stop filling when it reaches its max capacity, in this case 135. Therefore, the auxiliary tank will never go over 135 PSI. In my case I also have an inline regulator so that I can keep the auxiliary tank lower than 135 PSI if I want. Hope this helps!
Technically no, the CFM is entirely dependent on your air compressor rating. It increases your reserve capacity which will boost your "effective CFM" temporarily, but it will also decrease recovery time of your air pressure. CFM is all about how quickly your air compressor can compress air at a given PSI rating. Hope this helps.
You should definitely have one. In my case I actually just unhook the bit tank sometimes and invert it. There are a few things I wish I had mentioned in this video. Thanks for commenting.
Well it will increase your consistent l/m temporarily, but as soon as the reserved drop below your desired pressure, the rating of your air compressor still doesn't change, and it will actually take longer to recover.
Can i use my auxiliary tank just to store air in it? I mean i have a 24ltr air compressor and i have a 50ltr tank (auxiliary) just to make in total 74ltr as a "whole" tanks
I'm not a fan of a reserve air tank without a safety valve. I use a 24 gallon C/H compressor tank as my reserve air tank to supplement my 30 gallon compressor. Being on wheels it makes a handy mobile air tank as well.
As in a safety valve like the one on the compressor? I'm not disagreeing at all and safety should always be paramount. The one reason I didn't think it was necessary is my auxiliary will never be higher pressure than my compressor. Plus air can actually flow back to the compressor as long as it's connected. Would the safety valve be more for situations like if the tank were to be damaged or get hot? Also I could definitely use some wheels for mine. Hahaha.
@@802Garage I have really as a fail safe if ever the one on the compressor failed. Also it was on the reserve air tanks manifold so I left it. The wheels are handy, 24 gallons of air pressure at 140psi to air up large tractor tires. 😉
So in my case I have a 10g 2hp California Air tools compressor. My auxiliary tank is a 33g craftsman. The 10g maxes at 125psi then turns off. The aux 33g says 165psi. Is the regulator supposed to be wide open on the 10 gallon so the aux will fill up? The guage on the 33g filled to to 50psi then the 10g turns off. I shut the ball valves on the auxiliary and let air out of the 10 so it can fill up the auxiliary a little more. I'm trying to understand if this is how you get the maximum benefit of adding a tank. I did notice however the regulator on the 10 went over 90psi and was near 120ish (in the red) along with the aux. Or am I just supposed to start with both tanks empty leave the regulator wide open and let it be. And don't continue filling up the aux
Great video and Thanks, I will record you to add a security relief valve line the one that is on the compressor only for cases where for any reason the pressure passes the recommended for that compressor. Thanks
Most likely you could paint a whole car, yes. You would have to take small breaks during the process though. You wouldn't want to use an incredibly fast curing paint. Generally, you want your compressor to match the CFM the paint gun requires. Otherwise no matter what they will be times the compressor needs to recover so you will have to keep an eye on your air pressure. Definitely watch as many painting tutorials and videos on air requirements for painting as you can before attempting!
Extra volume is great..be aware though, one thing people don't often realize is that small compressors like that are not meant to fill that much tank volume....it's a choice you as the compressor owner has to make The compressor will run way longer than it is intended to in order to fill the extra volume.... This may move your compressor beyond it's intended duty cycle and shorten it's life under heavy use..... something to think about..
Absolutely right. It's definitely pushing it past its usual duty cycle. Should have mentioned that in the video. In this case, it's a cheap compressor anyways, and if it fails I plan to upgrade. Would certainly hurt the wallet though. thanks for watching and commenting!
I imagine that is more of an issue when the holding tank is empty and the compressor has to run like a raped ape until it hits full pressure. But once it's filled the normal duty cycle while still being longer, should be slight. Maybe going from a 30 second cycle to a 45 second cycle.
Something to think about: It isn't the tank or the compressor, it is the job it is used for. It doesn't matter to the compressor if you fill up 40 gal to use the exact same volume of air for a job as you would with a 20 gallon tank capacity. The compressor is going to compress the exact same amount of air, either way. The difference will be that the 40 gal set up will allow the compressor to have actual rest time, rather than on continuous cycle. If you ask me, I would rather have the compressor get some rest while working a job, rather than have it run continuous the entire time.
@@802Garage That's not a great idea. There is a good reason why there is a giant 125 max sign on the compressor, and it is not so end users can ignore it.
Doing the same thing with an old compressor tank. I added a check valve between the air compressor and auxilary tank. Also a pressure relief valve on the auxilary tank, for safety. Total additional cost about $15.
First of all, I wouldn't suggest an oil-less compressor to anyone. I just bought a Porter Cable oil filled compressor at Tractor Supply and I think it's great. I wanted an oil filled because it will last longer than one that it oil-less. It's not that loud either. I have a Campbell Hausefield 1 gallon pancake compressor and it is much louder than my 24 gallon Porter Cable I just bought. I have an 11 gallon air tank that I bought a few years ago when I was trying to get more air for an air tool I have that I am now going to use with the 24 gallon,too bad I can't come up with a way to mount the air tank to the compressor.
There are a lot of good oilless and quite options now that are affordable! California Air Tools, Hulk by EMAX, many other similar designs. That said if you're doing a ton of heavy duty work, probably still best to go with a big cast iron oiled unit. Believe it or not, this compressor is still kicking, but I have had to replace the reed valves with old feeler gauges I cut up a few times now. Finally bought a legitimate replacement set. Really want to upgrade soon though. Don't think there is any easy way to mount that extra tank, but could just go with a few ratchet straps? Thanks for the comment!
I’ve got a kobalt 26 gallon I’m considering using this setup. Your harbor freight has the “off” and “auto” like my kobalt by the looks. Mine shuts off on its own right before the tank gets to 150psi, if I added another tank like this would that automatic shut off still work the same and shut off once both tanks reach 150? (With Regulator allowing secondary tank to reach that amount)
Yep, that's exactly how it works. Just keep in mind this will technically wear your compressor a bit faster since you will be using more of the duty cycle for a fill. Basically it will kick on less often since you have more capacity, but it will also take longer to fill when it hits kick on pressure. Basically a trade off scenario.
802 Garage awesome thanks for the reply. I was assuming this was the case but I’m admittedly ignorant on how auto start and stop switch actually works. Thanks!
@@mallymartin8573 Basically, there is a pressure switch which detects when pressure is below a certain level, and another which flips when it reaches a certain temperature. So basically just switches for minimum and maximum pressure. Usually they are adjustable too. Often referred to as cut in and cut out I believe. When you turn on the circuit, it starts whenever the cut in is flipped and stops whenever the cut off is flipped, which obviously turns the cut in off as well. No problem! Good luck.
You should have done a slow mo rizz intro with that prince charming hair bro! You'd make a lot of women jealous with the mop. Cheers for the video.. 6 years later 😁
I just made one with an old kobalt tank,,It`s a frankenstien,,the regulator is from a pancake compressor,,,Instead of the shut off valve i used a "Check" valve,,,No leaks and holding 120 lbs for 2 days now
Technically no. CFM is the rating of what your compressor pump can put out. You do get more reserve capacity though, so it effectively "increases" your CFM output since it will be longer before your pump actually has to kick back on. It still won't be able to keep up at a certain point though.
Your fill in that old LP tank has a pretty small hole inside the full valve if you remove it and get another fitting that will open up the fill volume much quicker.
Good idea thanks. I figured I was pretty limited by my hose size anyways, but if I went to a larger orifice and hose it would def be a great power battery if you will.
I would recommend them I had mine for over 20 years never change your oil just drain the water out of it once a while and works great bought it to do roofs but now use it mostly to run an impact gun is a little under powered for air tools but good quality for the price. Less you need a portable do not buy an oil us their junk gets too hot I’ve had both 20 years I’ve been getting on my oil one
It's definitely helpful! Look around in Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for old air tanks or broken compressors and your can probably do the whole setup really cheap.
Well, doing a "compound compressor" setup can get complicated quickly. I will say that air compressed by an oiled compressor should not pose any danger if fed into an oil free compressor, and the reverse should be true as well. If you are just using one compressor as a storage take and don't intend to turn it on at the same time, it really shouldn't matter which way you go about it.
@@802Garage Thank you for answering my question. I'm thinking of combining 2 compressors together or either 1 tank + 1 compressor.. This is really killing my brain😥
Thanks for the awesome video - working on my own auxiliary tank setup and the extra tank I picked up happened to still have the old check valve on it - would you remove that check valve and the put a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer and then a 1/4” not T fitting on that?
By check valve do you mean regulator? It is fine if you have more than one regulator in the system, but it will slow the flow from one tank to the other marginally even with the reg all the way open. If you can take the auxiliary tank back to just a plain opening with a 1/4" coupler on it, I'd probably do that. Although if you leave a regulator on it as an output, you can also move that tank around and properly power an air tool off it for a short time. Sorry if I misunderstood at all! Let me know.
@@802Garage The check valve is also known as a back flow valve. It's usually the last fitting right where the air actually enters the tank, and stops the air from running backwards through the regulator. On yours, it's the brass fitting visible on the bottom left corner (right by your fingers) at 3:58.
@@frameriteairdrie578 Ahhh that makes perfect sense! I knew what a check valve was, but genuinely did not connect the knowledge. I guess I was under the impression that such a device must be part of the compression housing. Much appreciated.
Honestly, I have no idea where it came from. I think it may have been my step father's dad's tank for welding. Also may have come with the house. Search Craigslist and FB Marketplace for old air or gas tanks. Just make sure you get one that isn't rusting through or anything. Lots of people upset with me for using a rusty tank in this vid. :P
every ball valve and hose quick connector i guarantee are probably leaking by now! and every hf hose ive ever bought lasted about 6 months!! is it my bad luck? very frustrating
Nope! I advise everyone not to buy HF air couplers anymore. Their solid brass adapters AKA male to female threaded fittings are alright, but any of their quick connects are trash. Their pressure regulators definitely aren't great for flow either. My ball valve is another brand, so that has been fine, hahaha. My HF rubber hose has also cracked everywhere and started to leak, so I can't really recommend those either. I have a 20+ year old reputable brand hose that is leak free. My rubber hose from Tractor Supply Co. was cheaper and is better too. I never use the PVC or hybrid hoses because it gets so cold where I am. Seriously though the issue with HF connectors is they are desinged incorrectly. They do not cut enough of an air channel into the sealing peg in the female connector, the rubber washers they use are trash, the spring they use is weak, and they only use 3 ball bearings. The male connector actually has the retaining ridge set too far forward so it doesn't even end up pushing in the release valve all the way, giving you lots of leaks and little flow. If you want to replace your connectors so they don't leak and not break the bank, I highly recommend any of these three kits. EPAuto Push - amzn.to/2G2DHX9 Milton ColorFit - amzn.to/2MC1puz ColorConnex - amzn.to/2sOBkze The EPAuto are especially nice being push to connect. It really does make your life easier. Any of those will connect and flow better than HF fittings though. There is a lot of good stuff at HF, but their air couplers are not worth their weight in brass. Thanks! I also just found this set which looks pretty decent. Don't know a ton about it though. I'll mostly be upgrading to push to connect fittings in the future for sure. It's worth it. The absolute best connector I have is a Dixon push to connect with like 8 ball bearings. Probably an $8-12 fitting alone though. Was given to me. Giraffe Push - amzn.to/2TdgK7b
You def have an issue with no condensation drain in the auxiliary tank. Unless of course you have a drain you didn’t mention. That rusted tank with the tiny hole with be a rusted tank with a massive hole in the near future. I recommend finding the leak in the tank and drilling a hole around 1/2 inch. Then welding a 1/4” NPT pipe coupler over that hole and installing a simple drain system. If the leak is in the side of the tank, just turn the tank sideways on a stand you can fabricate for it. Maybe even two wheels and a handle or some kind of cart to hold both that allows the aux tank to sit on it’s side. If the leak is in the bottom, the very bottom... you’ve got it made. Just install drain system as mentioned. Edit: just noticed how old this vid is. I’m curious if the tank has failed or exploded by now if you didn’t install a drain. I guess you could have it hooked up to a dryer but doesn’t look that way from vid.
Nope tank hasn't exploded. Even if it did fail again, given the thickness of this tank and the pressures I'm working with, it would be pin holes again that gradually enlarge. Can always just invert the tank occasionally. I did pour paint in after welding up the holes to help prevent such an issue. Agreed though, installing a drain would be the move!
@@802Garage LOL that’s actually a simple solution that never crossed my mind. Using the intake as a drain lmao. But tell the other guys on RUclips that 125 PSI won’t turn a tank into a bomb. I think you’re most likely right tho. It prob won’t explode, I was just worried it could.
@@Scott-xc5sg You're welcome! I did quite a bit of research into the topic of exploding air tanks and I got tons of comments on it of course. Basically, it's a rare occurrence, though thay doesn't mean you shouldn't be cautious. That said, in order for the tank to violently rupture there has to be a point of cascading failure like a seam weld or end cap. If tiny rust pinholes start in the bottom of the tank again like it had before, it will just start to slowly leak out moisture and then air and won't even stay pressurized. That's exactly how it acted before I fixed the hole. I could air up the tank and it would keep pressure for hours, but if I came back the next day it would be at about half and eventually it would leak all the way down. Get what I am saying? If the tank was going to suddenly explode from having a tiny rust hole, it would have done it one of the numerous times I aired it up while the hole already existed. Plus, if a hole did open in the bottom of this tank, it would have to be extremely large to actually have a chance of propelling the tank upward for example, and it certainly wouldn't blow out the whole bottom at once. More likely it would just open up a whole the size of a pinhole to a toothpick and make some annoying noise and dust. I do think people should be cautious of course, but I think the exploding air tank flag waving is a bit overdone. Not knocking you at all by the way and I always appreciate people looking out for safety.
I have a 2 gallon small compressor. which works great, I want to add like a 10 gallon aux. my know it all friends both of them say it can't b done. I'm going to prove them wrong. I can't c why not. I will purchase the other fittings. which be b like $ 40.00 bucks those fittings r more than $ 25 u showed thank u soo much.
It can absolutely be done. Just keep in mind that the compressor will have to run approximately 6 times as long as usual to fill the now 12 gallon capacity. Every compressor has a rated duty cycle, essentially how many minutes per hour it should run, or how long it can run before needing a break of X time. Basically, if you are using the compressor heavily, you could wear it out prematurely by having it run for so long over and over. I did put links for tons of affordable fittings as well as tanks in the description, so feel free to check those out.
That's a really good point! I'll look into that in the future and maybe make an updated video. If I set it up the way I'd prefer with a T before the first regulator, it would function that way I believe. Thanks for the comment.
It Needed 3/8” sized couplers that are 1/4” Npt treaded. (Like Milton Gstyle.) And it need led the tee turned sideways so it exits in a straight line out. Without the 90deg turn. And loctite as the tread sealer. Not tape, or dope. Loctite is actually king. Go figure...
Needed 3/8” sized couplers that are 1/4” Npt treaded. (Like Milton Gstyle.) And need tee turned sideways so it exits in a straight line out. Without the 90deg turn. And loctite as the tread sealer. Not tape, or dope.
Thanks a lot! I actually just spent the last 30 mins or so going through my air fittings and widening/smoothing the internal holes to get better air flow. My impact gun wasn't chooching as well as I needed.
Sorry for delayed reply, but yes more reserve will help you paint a car because you will have to take less frequent breaks, even if they are a bit longer. Might want to do a dry run with no paint to see how long you can spray before the pressure drops.
You know... I had thought about that before, but for some reason never even looked it up, hahaha. A suggested item would be great! If I'm still using the compressor this winter, I'll def get one.
I agree. It's just what I had around. That said, before using it I poured paint inside and sloshed it around to hopefully prevent rust, and I occasionally disconnect everything and empty it out. :)
No. It will never be over 125 PSI because that's the max of the regulator on the compressor leading to it, plus it could backflow into the compressor and it has a safety valve connected. I agree it's not ideal, but short of someone putting it in a fire or smashing it with a 25 pound sledge, I'm not terribly worried about it.
I was going to comment in the last video on your standby tank I see someone else did ...good stuff! now show us that cart with the cutting torch tanks🤔🤔
*WARNING!* There has been concern in the comments over using an old, rusted, or welded on air tank. I won't go into details here, but the bottom line is that you should use only tanks which are rated for the pressure you will be operating at and which are in good condition. Ideally you want a tank which was made recently with no rust, damage, or uncertified repairs. You also want a drain and to keep moisture out of the tank. If you have concerns about serviceability, consult an expert.
Your own setup is your responsibility and I always encourage further research before you tackle a project like this. For extra safety you could also add another pressure relief valve in addition to the one on your compressor. Plus it's never a bad idea to have your air storage behind a barrier, in an outdoor enclosure, or in a separate room. While my setup has caused me no issues to date, I would rather encourage the utmost safety for all of you than take any risks. Thank you!
How much does this help though? I want to use a die grinder with a 6g ac, but I'm not sure how much this would help the situation.
THIS IS A 100 lb propane tank. This tank is IN FACT AN OLD MISSILE SHELL FROM PEARL HARBOR AND THE PROPANE INDUSTRY TURNED THEM INTO TANKS. I'm sure. Ask the video creator what is the date at the top of this tank and he'll tell you anywhere from 1948 to 1960. This tank with hold AT LEAST 300 psi as the pressure relief valve on a propane tank pops off at 250 psi. Sorry for the long response but by being in the propane industry for almost 15 years, I thought this was crazy cool when I learned that info!!!
You can get tanks tested at many gas companies (like AIR Gas) for a fee. A fee is better than having a tank fail on you.
It is terrifying that you are aware of the risks and still use it. Compromised tanks can kill with no warning.
@@TheJcperla *Sigh.* This is a thick walled tank intended for high pressure gases and it is not going to split at a seam or anything like that. It had a pinhole leak from rust and were it going to explode from said leak it would have before I welded it back up. It sat around for years leaking gradually and never caused an explosion. It's only being filled to 125 PSI and even if you punched a big hole in it the tank is so heavy it would probably just fall over. If you heated this tank enough for it to explode with incredible force, then the degradation it has experienced thus far would not even be an important factor. If anything it might make it fail more safely by having a small hole to relieve pressure gradually. People see one thing on the internet about an air tank exploding and suddenly think they are experts. It's not that simple. This tank is not going to kill anybody unless someone tries to pressurize it to 2000 PSI and then shoots it. Even if it was a thin walled tank with a welded seam, unless the seam is what was rusting out, I'd tell you the same thing, because 125 PSI won't cause a pinhole from rust to turn into a gaping hole. Think about it. It literally causes the tank to leak down incredibly gradually and as the hole slowly grows over time it will only leak down faster. It will never reach a point of being explosive. /rant
I have a 60 gallon setting across my garage from my compressor with plain old air hose. Then on top of that I put an 80 Gallon tank up in the rafters in my garage and I run the entire system at 180 PSI and the air tank on my compressor is also an 80 Gallon. I run a sand blaster and need all the volume I can get. My compressor is a Porter Cable 220 volt single phase single lung belt driven. Been running this set up for over 15 years Knock on wood I have never blown a hose or a tank. I do however have an issue with drying the air. I really cannot afford an air dryer. I only do painting, polishing and sand blasting for myself but then again I am in Michigan the land of rust. I have done a couple small little things for some Amish friends that in trade give me veggies out of the garden or some fine cuts of pork or beef when they slaughter. Great Video man i will be subscribing. Thanks.
Wow badass setup! Thanks for the view and comment for sure. I really want to get a sand blaster in the near future. Volume definitely going to be a pain. Lots of waiting on refill. Moisture separation definitely an issue here in VT too. More than feel you on the rust issues! May you never blow a line. ;)
can i use a 100 pound cylinder propane tank
This is not legal advice. Generally, if it is in good condition and you add a pressure relief valve, no reason it shouldn't work fine.
@@802Garage thank you so much it's brand new never been used I'm confident about it now thanks again
With extra tank does compressor still switch off at its recommended setting
Yes, it will just take longer to reach that level. This can exceed the duty cycle of the compressor. So be careful how large a tank you use.
Man I am so appreciative for you making this video! I added an aux tank to my harborfreight 21 gallon and I was getting crazy PSI drops and couldn't figure it out. I had my tool hose going out from the aux and forgot the regulator! so much thanks bro! now its running like a champ and pressure stable!
Awesome thanks for the comment!
Do you get more CFM ADDING THE TANK??
@Anthony Aguilar no you don't. Just more volume. What I did to increase cfm on my ridgid 150psi was add another husky 8gallon from marketplace air compressor for 70 bucks (150 psi) and bought an additional 11 gal from harbor...
Connected them all.... more than doubled my cfm and 4xs the volume while changing 1/4 hoses to 3/8 and using HIgh flow fittings
@@isabellaandivanasspoiledli5630 Thank you so much for taking the time to get back to me. I'm definitely going to add another tank infact my neighbor is giving me his husky 30 Gallon tank and I will be adding that to my 20 gallon hausfeld. You really know your stuff I really enjoyed your video also 👍💯
@@isabellaandivanasspoiledli5630 The cfm is from the compressor, adding tanks adds capacity for more runtime before pump runs. Adding capacity can also damage the motor/pumps from running too long and overheating. They frequently have a short duty cycle for that reason.
I have a 30 gal snap on compressor that works. I have a campbell and huasfeld 60 gal that I can't find parts for can you tell me how to hook them up together. So i wont run out of air Thanks .
Functionally operates just as it should ruclips.net/user/postUgkxiiMg_x4gIWeXMWfBnDdRnME4qJUAva4w holds pressure perfectly when not in use. Glad one of the other reviews pointed out that the bottom pressure release valve was open; thought it was defective at first.
Sweet thanks!
how many gallons is the aux tank? love the setup
Not sure. I would guess 30 gallons. Appreciate it!
How do you drain the water (condensation) from the large auxiliary tank ? I would like to do this, but......
Generally you would tap it and add a drain valve if it didn't already have one. When I was using it I would just disconnect and invert the tank occasionally.
Ok I just saw this, I bought mine over 12 yrs ago, same one, and never have any issues, they are awesome and I turned mine up to 165 psi, tank is rated for 170-175 psi, love mine
That's great! I should figure out how to turn mine up. The 125 PSI doesn't really cut it for me.
I like mine overall, but it doesn't start worth a damn below freezing. I usually have to heat the oil and cylinder with a torch. XD
How are you draining the moisture from extra tank.?
In this case I just disconnect it and invert it once and a while, but it would be best to add a drain.
My concern would be as follows. How do you drain water from the auxiliary tank????
Get a drain. In my case I just invert the tank once in a while.
i did the same thing just alil different.. it works so well i painted my lil Chevy S10 with no problems. plenty of valium to paint it with.
That's awesome! Hoping I can do painting in the future with a similar setup.
If you need VALIUM to paint..... lol
So where do you put the hose for your tools? Harbor Freight or the other tank? Also do you have a list of parts you bought for that set up? Thanks
Well in this case on the extra tank. That's why it has the T junction with a regulator. You can buy pretty much everything I used at Harbor Freight or online. The exact fittings you'll need will vary, but I linked a ton in the description. Please check those out.
@@802Garage ok great, thank you
@@redbaron2448 You're welcome.
Trying to add a cap to an axillary air tank/compressor. A 3/8 SAE flare cap barely slips over it the non-tappered male tank fitting. Any idea?
Flared fittings only work with other flared. Others are mostly NPT or regular pipe thread.
should you have a relief valve on your other tank?
Why? Genuine question. Multiple people have suggested that, but both tanks are linked together and there is already a relief valve on the compressor. It is impossible for the secondary tank to exceed the pressure of the primary.
802 Garage ok just wondering
Oh I'm sorry I actually misread your comment. I thought you said "you should have" and followed by the question mark I thought maybe you were being rude. My bad!
Would it be advisable to add a separate pressure release valve to the auxilliary tank?
That depends on how you have it all routed, because as long as it is hooked to the compressor, it could never exceed the pressure in the compressor, so there is already a safety valve in play. To be extra safe though, yes it would be smart to have a safety valve on the auxiliary as well, especially if it is portable.
yea on my build i have one on. its on my channel if you wanna see how i did mine
With tank valve open, and compressor running, does it remain full pressure or does the compressor not fill quick enough?
This compressor definitely won't keep up with that. You would need something with insane CFM.
I did this minus the second regulator but my motor still kicks on quick. I’ll use my da sander on it for about 2 minutes straight and then the more still turns on. Is that normal or what do I need to do different? I don’t want to burn my motor out. My air regulator is on my Husky 19 gallon if that will help you answer my question. Thanks
By not adding the second regulator, you are limiting the capacity of your auxiliary tank to however much air It holds at the pressure of your regulator on your compressor. So you should really get the second regulator to maximize your auxiliary capacity. That said, it sounds like your compressor really just doesn't have the CFM rating or max pressure rating to keep up with your sander. Eventually you will want to upgrade. Check with the CFM requirement of the sander is versus your compressor and if the sander requires more, then you should make sure you give your compressor a break sometimes.
@@802Garage ok great and thanks for the reply. Will the second regulator prolong my motor from turning on so quick?
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 As long as you turn up the first regulator to higher than the second, yes.
@@802Garage thank you!!!!
@@papergatorzfedducca7998 You're welcome!
Confirms my thoughts, I'll go with a T-fitting just before the regulator. Safes me the extra coupling and regulator. Still need the ball joint .
Thanks
Makes sense to me! Good luck. Remember it's best practice to use a container in good shape with no rust, and to add an emergency release valve and drain fitting. :)
Question: Can I feed my air tools from the slave/expansion tank? My old 20 gal compressor died, so I’m buying a new, 60 gal compressor. Due to space restrictions and outlet placement, it’s easier to have the new compressor feed the smaller tank, which is connected to my air dryer system.
Will this work?
Yes it will work you just need a regulator on your auxiliary tank. That said, I doubt you'll need the extra tank with your new compressor. Sounds like a massive upgrade. Unless you do constant work with air tools!
@@802Garage Really, I don’t. But the smaller tank is already connected to the air drier. Easier NOT to move them.
@@aircooledhead Ah makes sense! Yeah just add another regulator then. 😁
Do you think I can use a old pool filter as a extra tank? It's big.. just not sure if it could hold the pressure
I wouldn't unless you know for sure it is rated for the appropriate PSI.
@@802Garage any idea how I can figure that out
@@jasonroch5868 Lots of Googling.
@@jasonroch5868My guess is no, hahaha.
@@802Garage been googling for hours.. can't find anything
I have two HF compressors one newer 10 gal. and older 3 gal never had a problem with them. I don't like the oilless ones they go bad quick.
The biggest problems I have had so far are really just noise, long fill time, quickly running out of air, and not working well in the cold. It has been reliable, just far from perfect. Not sure I would buy one again.
Either way, your input is appreciated and good to know about the oilless HF units. Thanks for commenting!
802 Garage I read the reviews and questions on the Lowes Kobalt 30 gallon Belt Drive compressor it has a great review and 3 year warranty I was thinking about getting one sometime in the near future because I need new compressor for my work and kobalt them self said they test it to duty cycle of 45 minutes continuous run but they recommend running it a 30 minute duty cycle. I know it is expensive compressor but belt drive compressors are known for their life span and I have had one at my home for at least 15 years though not kobalt brand and haven’t had any problems. it does not like the negative cold temperatures here in Maine though but I’ve been told by kobalt when I was looking at the questions that they recommend a full synthetic Mobile one version of oil and have been told Full synthetic is better in the cold. Though also my compressor doesn’t have full synthetic oil in it but I think it’s basically the motor is the issue because I have a bad start capacitor or a going start capacitor
Best explained and easiest to understand.
I have been trying to find a safe way to add for sand blasting.
Thanks
No problem at all! This isn't a "perfect" setup, but it works. Let me know if you want to discuss any improvements or need tips for setup. Just note that you should also include a drain on the auxiliary tank if possible.
Is it required to run a regulator on both the main compressor and the tank? Could i just connect the compressor directly to the tank with no regulator and then have the regulator on the secondary tank
You do not need a regulator on both. You ideally want a safety valve on each vessel, but have at least one in the system for sure. You could have no regulator on either tank and put it on the end of a line where you actually hook up your tools. Really just depends on how you want to regulate. My setup of leaving the regulator on the compressor was not ideal, just easiest.
At 125psi no regulator needed for most tools other than maybe painting etc. Most auto shops have 175psi compressors and run em straight open
@@mrmotofy A lot of tools are rated for 90psi. Just cuz you can doesn't mean you should.
@@802Garage Sure...and many of those ratings are written by lawyers...like the screwdriver packaging that says must wear eye protection while using this tool. I've NEVER heard of an airtool failing from using 120-140psi...and I've looked and talked to a lot of techs in shops. Very few use any regulators. Air systems are typically tested and certified well over their intended uses. Like air tanks can frequently be tested to 250 or 300psi but that's where they STOP testing. PEX is "rated" for like 170psi...yet in real world testing will handle around 800-1200psi before bursting.
So especially for a shop with generally long lines one will get better performance by having a higher pressure in tank/lines then regulate lower at the device/connection if desired. Which isn't normally needed.
A regulator will restrict tool by design...so unless it's actually needed like painting etc there's not much requirement for most tools up to 150ish psi and they certainly won't be hurt by it.
By the numbers 1/4" air lines should flow at least 25cfm...which is more than nearly all home/shop compressors...so why don't people run 1/4" lines everywhere??? Because in the real world...it just doesn't work well for many applications.
If ya wanna get technical the manuals also tell you not to use an extension cord...clearly you and most do. Run it on a dedicated circuit, obviously most don't. Always use eye protection when using, most don't. At some point one has to use a bit of reasonable thinking skills and make your own decisions. Many of the manufacturers violate the same notations in their documentation. Corporations operate #1 on Liability and minimizing it.
Do you recommend or know any video that shows the “best” air tank set up not interested in the cheapest.
LOL I think you could use the search feature.
does aux tank have a drain valve? I used an old compressor tank and drain it as well as main tank.
It does not and it definitely should. Luckily the primary seems to collect most of the moisture. It's a pain, but if I want to empty it, I just tip it upside down, hah.
@@802Garage good idea. maybe take it into a radiator shop and have them weld a bung in bottom for a petcock valve. dual tank works great tho for painting with hvlp. Im gonna rig a relief valve in mine this spring just for peace of mind. take care..
@@forreststump11 Yeah I plan to get into much more painting next year. Hopefully I'll be upgrading my compressor, and if I keep using this tank I'll likely add a drain valve and a relief valve. Never bad to be safe, even though I think the odds of needing it are incredibly low. Thanks for the comments!
Do you have a check valve on the auxiliary tank ?, I have a second tank I would like to do the same. Thank you.
No, but ideally you should. In this setup it is impossible for the secondary tank to have more pressure than the primary and since the primary has a check valve it shouldn't really be an issue and it can theoretically back feed if pressure does rise dramatically though that depends on how well the regulator stops reverse flow. The auxiliary tank should also ideally have a drain.
Hmm I just added to my Makita portable compressor with a 10 gal aux tank for spraying paint. Really good idea about puting a t in the line before the compressors reg. I was also wondering if I can raise the psi at which the comp shuts off. should avoid running any motor that pulls more that 15 amps on any extension cord if at all possible
Def agreed an avoiding extension cord if possible! Typically you can adjust the regulator to raise the PSI for both cut in and cut off. Usually some screws you can adjust under the switch cover. Just keep in mind you will be adding stress to the motor and likely increasing overall duty cycle usage. Especially for something like painting, you may wear the compressor out much faster. Basically a your mileage may vary and do at your own risk set of mods!
Is it also possible to ad 3 smaller tanks ?
Yes, though that seems a bit extra in my opinion. Better off buying a better compressor, hah.
Is not it a risk of overheating the compressor motor that has to work double to fill both tanks?
@@AlexC80 You can exceed the duty cycle and shorten the life of the compressor, yes.
@@802Garageit might, if the auxiliary tank it’s bigger
@@AlexC80 Right exactly. Depends on a number of factors.
I recently got rid of a 33 gallon tank because it was over 20 years old and I got it used 10 years ago and it had a lot of rust in it. I was concerned over the safety of a rusted tank. I don't want it to rupture. Do you know how must rust is in your tank?
I mean always good to err on the safe side. In my case the tank is thick enough and holding low enough pressure the chance of any catastrophic rupture is very low IMO. Thick tanks rated for compressed gas can handle air compressor pressures no problem. The thin walled seam welded tanks are the ones that like to explode from rust. That's my understanding at least. Mine def had rust at the bottom inside because it had the pinholes, but I welded them and filled the bottom with paint. I haven't used it for several years now but it still holds air fine.
Oh OK. I didn't know it was for compressed gas. however the pinholes sound scary. Check out on youtube the aftermath of compressor tank explosions. the amount of energy stored in a compressed tank is astonishing. When they blow apart they knock doors off the hinges and things like that. I tend to err on the side of safety because you only get one set of eyes, one life etc. @@802Garage
Is the holding tank an old propane tank?
I believe it's an old oxygen or acetylene tank, but yeah basically. It's very beefy.
i have one silly question
can i use a 50kgs Propane tank as an auxillary.
Not silly. The quick answer is yes. Propane tanks are rated for several hundred PSI. I would just make sure you aren't putting in more than 150-175 PSI, try to keep the air dry if you can, add a pressure relief valve to the tank, and don't have it in your work area if you can avoid it. Ideally you would want to add a moisture drain valve as well, or the tank will rust out from the inside. Basically, try to be safe about it, and you should technically mod the tank a bit.
Oh also you need to make sure it has absolutely no propane left. I don't really think it would be a huge issue in most cases if there was 1% propane, but again you want to be safe not sorry.
thank you so much for the info. ill try to spot a remote area and make sure propane is gone. more power to you
No problem! Good luck and be safe. :)
Love all the links in the description. Some people say they’ll be there and they aren’t so it’s hard to find the right stuff. Great simple vid, this was the design I was wanting to do but couldn’t find another video with the same simple design that also listed parts.
Glad to help! I try to be pretty diligent with my links. I actually updated these fairly recently too. Love the push to connect style fittings! You can get some of these components cheaper if you shop certain local stores, but Amazon is so convenient, hah.
Do I need a safety valve?
You should have one somewhere on the system which sees whatever max pressure in the system is. So as long as your air compressor has one, you should be fine. Ideally you want on on any external tanks to, but specifically if they cannot back flow into the compressor.
I have a an old high pressure oxygen cylinder i believe its around 240 cubic ft that i use as my aux air tank
Yeah, definitely it works especially if it was meant for much higher pressure!
@@802Garage it is one of my old cutting torch cylinders i use to use working on the road. I didnt want to get rid of it so i found a use for it since i have new bottles these days.
@@eastin6868 I'd do the same! It's def rated for far more pressure than an air compressor can put out.
It be much safe with a pressure relief valve
It has one on the Harbor Freight tank, but ideally it should have one on the external tank as well, yes.
My buddy did this with a hot water boiler and it works awesome
Hahaha makes sense to me!
Awesome set up
Thanks a lot!
How long does it take to fill that tank . How long does your compressor have to run . Has this set harmed your harbor freight freight compressor?
if you take it to a welder/ fabricator they could weld that hole shut for you or you could try to use JB weld or 2 part epoxy, that might work
I welded it and then filled the vessel with some paint and swirled it around the bottom.
@@802Garage nice that should do it
@@eksine I haven't used it for a while but it worked for a long time.
I know I'm 3 years late😂 great idea! As for your cold starting issue, a while back I purchased the 8 gallon version at harbor freight to have as a portable unit as tossing the 60 gallon 240v in the truck and going is out of the question. Since break in on the 8 gallon I've used husky full synthetic compressor oil which is equivalent to a sae 20w and have had no issues with start up down to 21 degrees F so far!
Hello fellow Aaron!
I was using Royal Purple Synpower and I think it's an SAE 30, but seems to run a bit thick. I've actually switched to full synthetic 5W-30 engine oil and now I have zero cold start issues! Even at like 0F I think it was fine. This compressor is definitely getting old though and I dearly want to replace it. So loud!
@@802Garage I was taught that the "direct drive" are the super loud ones, and the ones with belt, pulley, etc. Are quiet. Seems to always ring true in my experience. And yes, loud one, they are OBNOXIOUS!!
@@dannytaylor5932 Yep I think as a general rule you are correct! Although some of the newer direct drive designs are intended to be quiet like the California air tools and they seem to work pretty well.
@@802Garage Niiice!!! See good looking out cuz I stay away from em but I'll start looking now.
@@dannytaylor5932 Yeah check out some reviews and videos on the new quiet compressors they are pretty nuts.
Man if it's already got a hole in it, I'd scrap it. To telling when that hole is gonna open up and you have a heavy metal rocket going thru the ceiling. Be safe brotha
I appreciate it, but this was years ago and it's still fine. If it fails it will be a slow leak not a catastrophic blowout. I haven't been using it lately anyways though. Thanks for the concern! I won't recommend anyone else do the same haha.
No scrapping it. Just fix the hole.
@@eastin6868 Haha I did. Full send.
Heavy Metal Rocket is music I don't (wanna) play. Be safe!
@@sethlogan9724 The chances of that happening at these pressure with a slow leak are incredibly low if not zero, but I appreciate the concern. I recommend everyone use sound tanks with pressure relief valves and keep it in a separate room. 😁
Watched about 15 videos and nobody can say what the size of the fitting is that goes directly from the air tank. I've heard it's 3/4 npt but can you confirm please
Do you mean the fitting on the harbor freight tank if you remove the factory regulator?
@@802Garage no, the hole on top of the propane tank with no fittings installed
Just went and measured and yes mine is 3/4 NPT, as the threads at the base are just over an inch OD. Looked it up to make sure I measured right.
@@802Garage thank you so much
No problem! Hope it's right.
Sir can you help me I am trying to attach a tank to my iwata compressor
Not sure how much I can help, you just have to figure out what fittings you need. Using a T fitting or T coupler would probably be easiest for you. Something like this. One out goes to your auxiliary tank and one to your tool. amzn.to/3tCfsFh
It makes a world of a difference with an extra tank got the same air compressor went to Harbor Freight bought a 11 gallon portable air tank they call it took the fittings off of that ran a line know I have a 32 gallon tank
Yeah, it actually makes a huge difference! I'm going to be upgrading to a California Air Tools compressor because I'm sick of the noise the Harbor Freight compressor makes. That, and a reed valve finally went bad in mine. I replaced it with an old feeler gauge cut down to size, but who knows how long it will last. Replacement kits are cheap, but I want the new compressor anyways!
Hi, great vid I’m doing the same with an old tire inflation tank. In the video you say the reducer and tee are 3/8 but it looks like the tag on the tee says 1/4??
I believe you are correct. I screw up a lot when I talk about NPT fittings because the sizing is so weird relative to the naming. Thanks for watching and commenting!
Recently just got the 29 Gallon CENTRAL NEUMATIC 150 PSI Portable Air Compressor and am doing the 11 gallon portable reservoir tank so ill have 40 gallons, but I'd honestly like to have an additional 29, 30 or 33 reservoir tank to get me at the 60 gallon capacity (which seems to be GREAT for painting cars and running pretty much near anything, and theres also the 80 gallon tanks as well that are beasts)
Anyways I also have the DeWalt Quadraport Air Line Splitter that has 2 ports both REGULATED and 2 ports that are NON REGULATED... Anyhow, im trying to figure out the best placement for the reservoir tank ...
Ideally you want the reserve tank and compressor tank to share an unregulated line and then wherever you attach your regulated and unregulated ports it doesn't matter. You could also attach your splitter directly to the compressor and attach one unregulated line to the reserve tank leaving one unregulated and two regulated lines for use. Hope that makes sense. Both tanks should also have their pressure leading to a pressure relieve valve, be it one common or two separate.
I have a question. You recommended putting a T fitting between the tank pressure gauge and the tool pressure gauge? I have mine coming out of the main output (connector on the Tool pressure gauge) to the Aux tank. Problem is I no longer can control tool pressure since now it controls the other tank filling and its hard as hell to turn that tool pressure gauge. I need to add a tool pressure gauge on the aux tank then. I thought about just hard connecting the main tank to the spare tank.
Ideally in a permanent setup, you just have one pressure regulator at the output of the auxiliary tank or anywhere that is connected to both supplies.
The reason for the T fitting before the regulator on the compressor would be so that you don't have to turn that regulator all the way up any time you want to fill the secondary tank.
Shouldn't be that hard to install, just a T fitting with the right connections and another female coupler.
Hope that all makes sense! Sorry for the delayed reply. Thanks for watching and commenting.
802 Garage
It’s not a problem. I did get it all working. The new problem is I discovered that when my Kobalt tank gets too 155PSI, it turns off like it’s supposed too. But then, after a little while it drops to about 135PSI. Maybe overnight.
It’s none of my fittings, because I took it all off to make sure. It’s like a super slow leak. When it gets to 155 tank PSI, it is supposed to stay there right? Should I return this?
It should stay there, yes. You just have a very small leak somewhere. I would guess it is one of the fittings. Use some soapy water and a spray bottle to find the leak!
802 Garage
I did try to do that. I’ll do it again. There are no fittings other than a quick disconnect directly on the power switch right now to rule out my attachments. I can’t put pictures on this or I would.
I will spray some more soapy water, see what happens. I was going to maybe upgrade my tank to a standup 60-80 gallon. But it’s going to cost$$$.
I’m not sure how Limited I am with 5.5CFM VS a 15CFM compressor.
I’m just a home hobbyist.
Could also be the drain valve or emergency release valve on your compressor.
Yeah I would love to upgrade to a much bigger compressor, just don't have the money for that right now.
I'm just a home gamer too, but more air would really be nice!
I have the sam HF AIR I COMPRESSOR....I want to do the same thing but my question is ...how or what keeps the auxiliary tank from over filling form the HF AIR COMPRESSOR... In other words keep it from exploding do I put a regulator on both sides the of the auxiliary air compressor input & on the output ..but for the output Definitely use a Regulator that's going directly to the tools to regulate the air pressure...
Now especially on the input into Auxiliary air tanks i want to have the Harbor freight air compressor cut off when the auxiliary tank reaches it full air pressure.......what are you suggesting....thanks
Hello, thanks for commenting! You don't actually need to worry about the auxiliary tank overfilling. The air compressor will still stop filling when it reaches its max capacity, in this case 135. Therefore, the auxiliary tank will never go over 135 PSI. In my case I also have an inline regulator so that I can keep the auxiliary tank lower than 135 PSI if I want. Hope this helps!
Does this also increase your CFM?
Technically no, the CFM is entirely dependent on your air compressor rating. It increases your reserve capacity which will boost your "effective CFM" temporarily, but it will also decrease recovery time of your air pressure. CFM is all about how quickly your air compressor can compress air at a given PSI rating. Hope this helps.
What about condensate drain valve?
You should definitely have one. In my case I actually just unhook the bit tank sometimes and invert it. There are a few things I wish I had mentioned in this video. Thanks for commenting.
I have same path ahead, thats why i asked😀
You could certainly drill and tap a tank to accept a drain valve, or you could buy a tank that already has one. :)
Hi, cool clip!
Would that mean, that I also tune-up my ''actually delivered l/min''?
Well it will increase your consistent l/m temporarily, but as soon as the reserved drop below your desired pressure, the rating of your air compressor still doesn't change, and it will actually take longer to recover.
Can i use my auxiliary tank just to store air in it? I mean i have a 24ltr air compressor and i have a 50ltr tank (auxiliary) just to make in total 74ltr as a "whole" tanks
Yeah for sure. It should be periodically drained to make sure moisture isn't an issue. Other than that you can store air.
I'm not a fan of a reserve air tank without a safety valve. I use a 24 gallon C/H compressor tank as my reserve air tank to supplement my 30 gallon compressor. Being on wheels it makes a handy mobile air tank as well.
As in a safety valve like the one on the compressor? I'm not disagreeing at all and safety should always be paramount. The one reason I didn't think it was necessary is my auxiliary will never be higher pressure than my compressor. Plus air can actually flow back to the compressor as long as it's connected. Would the safety valve be more for situations like if the tank were to be damaged or get hot? Also I could definitely use some wheels for mine. Hahaha.
@@802Garage I have really as a fail safe if ever the one on the compressor failed. Also it was on the reserve air tanks manifold so I left it. The wheels are handy, 24 gallons of air pressure at 140psi to air up large tractor tires. 😉
Yep! Makes sense to me.
So in my case I have a 10g 2hp California Air tools compressor. My auxiliary tank is a 33g craftsman. The 10g maxes at 125psi then turns off. The aux 33g says 165psi. Is the regulator supposed to be wide open on the 10 gallon so the aux will fill up? The guage on the 33g filled to to 50psi then the 10g turns off. I shut the ball valves on the auxiliary and let air out of the 10 so it can fill up the auxiliary a little more. I'm trying to understand if this is how you get the maximum benefit of adding a tank. I did notice however the regulator on the 10 went over 90psi and was near 120ish (in the red) along with the aux.
Or am I just supposed to start with both tanks empty leave the regulator wide open and let it be. And don't continue filling up the aux
Great video and Thanks, I will record you to add a security relief valve line the one that is on the compressor only for cases where for any reason the pressure passes the recommended for that compressor. Thanks
Watching this video because it was suggested in your latest video. Once again, very detailed. Thank you.
You're very welcome! I like doing these general workshop vids, but only have the funds to do so much. You might enjoy my Eastwood welder videos too!
thinking about doing the could that system paint a whole car anyone knows of this compressor hoteche and is it any good
Most likely you could paint a whole car, yes. You would have to take small breaks during the process though. You wouldn't want to use an incredibly fast curing paint. Generally, you want your compressor to match the CFM the paint gun requires. Otherwise no matter what they will be times the compressor needs to recover so you will have to keep an eye on your air pressure. Definitely watch as many painting tutorials and videos on air requirements for painting as you can before attempting!
Extra volume is great..be aware though, one thing people don't often realize is that small compressors like that are not meant to fill that much tank volume....it's a choice you as the compressor owner has to make
The compressor will run way longer than it is intended to in order to fill the extra volume.... This may move your compressor beyond it's intended duty cycle and shorten it's life under heavy use..... something to think about..
Absolutely right. It's definitely pushing it past its usual duty cycle. Should have mentioned that in the video. In this case, it's a cheap compressor anyways, and if it fails I plan to upgrade. Would certainly hurt the wallet though. thanks for watching and commenting!
I imagine that is more of an issue when the holding tank is empty and the compressor has to run like a raped ape until it hits full pressure. But once it's filled the normal duty cycle while still being longer, should be slight. Maybe going from a 30 second cycle to a 45 second cycle.
@@ryanmalueg smart idea but some might not understand
@Jay Gomez True, but then they shouldn't be attempting this project.
Something to think about: It isn't the tank or the compressor, it is the job it is used for. It doesn't matter to the compressor if you fill up 40 gal to use the exact same volume of air for a job as you would with a 20 gallon tank capacity. The compressor is going to compress the exact same amount of air, either way. The difference will be that the 40 gal set up will allow the compressor to have actual rest time, rather than on continuous cycle. If you ask me, I would rather have the compressor get some rest while working a job, rather than have it run continuous the entire time.
there is a screw under that plastic next to ur reg that u can turn up to take is past 125
May have to play with it just a little. ;)
Wonder how long it will last though!
Thanks for the tip, sorry for delay.
@@802Garage That's not a great idea. There is a good reason why there is a giant 125 max sign on the compressor, and it is not so end users can ignore it.
@@jonosterman2878 What exactly is the reason? I actually know all the reasons, I'm just wondering what you actually think will happen.
Gotta love it !!👌🏽👍🏽..very thorough in the set up .certainly helped me a lot. Cheers!.
You're welcome thanks for the comment!
Doing the same thing with an old compressor tank. I added a check valve between the air compressor and auxilary tank. Also a pressure relief valve on the auxilary tank, for safety. Total additional cost about $15.
Definitely recommended! Wish I had been a bit more thorough in this video. :)
First of all, I wouldn't suggest an oil-less compressor to anyone. I just bought a Porter Cable oil filled compressor at Tractor Supply and I think it's great. I wanted an oil filled because it will last longer than one that it oil-less. It's not that loud either. I have a Campbell Hausefield 1 gallon pancake compressor and it is much louder than my 24 gallon Porter Cable I just bought. I have an 11 gallon air tank that I bought a few years ago when I was trying to get more air for an air tool I have that I am now going to use with the 24 gallon,too bad I can't come up with a way to mount the air tank to the compressor.
There are a lot of good oilless and quite options now that are affordable! California Air Tools, Hulk by EMAX, many other similar designs. That said if you're doing a ton of heavy duty work, probably still best to go with a big cast iron oiled unit. Believe it or not, this compressor is still kicking, but I have had to replace the reed valves with old feeler gauges I cut up a few times now. Finally bought a legitimate replacement set. Really want to upgrade soon though. Don't think there is any easy way to mount that extra tank, but could just go with a few ratchet straps? Thanks for the comment!
I’ve got a kobalt 26 gallon I’m considering using this setup. Your harbor freight has the “off” and “auto” like my kobalt by the looks. Mine shuts off on its own right before the tank gets to 150psi, if I added another tank like this would that automatic shut off still work the same and shut off once both tanks reach 150? (With Regulator allowing secondary tank to reach that amount)
Yep, that's exactly how it works. Just keep in mind this will technically wear your compressor a bit faster since you will be using more of the duty cycle for a fill. Basically it will kick on less often since you have more capacity, but it will also take longer to fill when it hits kick on pressure. Basically a trade off scenario.
802 Garage awesome thanks for the reply. I was assuming this was the case but I’m admittedly ignorant on how auto start and stop switch actually works. Thanks!
@@mallymartin8573 Basically, there is a pressure switch which detects when pressure is below a certain level, and another which flips when it reaches a certain temperature. So basically just switches for minimum and maximum pressure. Usually they are adjustable too. Often referred to as cut in and cut out I believe. When you turn on the circuit, it starts whenever the cut in is flipped and stops whenever the cut off is flipped, which obviously turns the cut in off as well. No problem! Good luck.
Has a leak! I’d not get anywhere near that thing when under load!
See pinned comment.
You should remove the quick disconnect fittings by your extra tank and hook it up direct and it'll fill up faster
The only issue with that is then I have to move them as a unit instead of being able to disconnect them. Unless I misunderstand what you mean.
@@802Garageuse black iron fittings and put a couple unions with it
Where the drain off for the auxalery tank
You should have done a slow mo rizz intro with that prince charming hair bro! You'd make a lot of women jealous with the mop. Cheers for the video.. 6 years later 😁
Hahaha thank you! It was quite a look. ;)
@@802Garage happily married red blooded male but even I got jealous and yet my hair is short lol
@@blizteredthumbs7911 Bahahaha mine is pretty short right now, but I used to just give less of a dang.
I just made one with an old kobalt tank,,It`s a frankenstien,,the regulator is from a pancake compressor,,,Instead of the shut off valve i used a "Check" valve,,,No leaks and holding 120 lbs for 2 days now
Hahaha if it works!
@@802Garage It works just fine,,,I used it on a job yesterday shooting popcorn on a ceiling where it had flaked off,,, And it worked fine
@@802Garage So you are saying,,,That ONLY your design will work ??? Or is it that someone else just used a "Better" and cheaper set up ???
@@casimirkotarba5186 Sorry I think my tone was lost. I was saying "If it works, it works!" Like, go for it! Sounds good to me. :)
Great video . Answered a question a had .
Glad to hear it!
This is a 23.7 gallon propane tank
Sounds about right!
Very cool got me looking for tank lol
Thanks! Read through the comments for some extra tips and info too and keep in mind compressors are rated for a certain duty cycle. :)
Do you get higher cfm with the extra tank.
Technically no. CFM is the rating of what your compressor pump can put out. You do get more reserve capacity though, so it effectively "increases" your CFM output since it will be longer before your pump actually has to kick back on. It still won't be able to keep up at a certain point though.
Your fill in that old LP tank has a pretty small hole inside the full valve if you remove it and get another fitting that will open up the fill volume much quicker.
Good idea thanks. I figured I was pretty limited by my hose size anyways, but if I went to a larger orifice and hose it would def be a great power battery if you will.
I would recommend them I had mine for over 20 years never change your oil just drain the water out of it once a while and works great bought it to do roofs but now use it mostly to run an impact gun is a little under powered for air tools but good quality for the price. Less you need a portable do not buy an oil us their junk gets too hot I’ve had both 20 years I’ve been getting on my oil one
I need to do this. My HF compressor runs out way to fast lol.
It's definitely helpful! Look around in Craigslist or Facebook Marketplace for old air tanks or broken compressors and your can probably do the whole setup really cheap.
Great video, just what I needed.
@@rodbarker2173 Thanks!
Hi! I wonder if I could connect an oil-less compressor to another oil-lubricated air compressor as you did?
Would that be an explosion?
Well, doing a "compound compressor" setup can get complicated quickly. I will say that air compressed by an oiled compressor should not pose any danger if fed into an oil free compressor, and the reverse should be true as well. If you are just using one compressor as a storage take and don't intend to turn it on at the same time, it really shouldn't matter which way you go about it.
@@802Garage Thank you for answering my question.
I'm thinking of combining 2 compressors together or either 1 tank + 1 compressor.. This is really killing my brain😥
Thanks for the awesome video - working on my own auxiliary tank setup and the extra tank I picked up happened to still have the old check valve on it - would you remove that check valve and the put a 1/2 to 1/4 reducer and then a 1/4” not T fitting on that?
By check valve do you mean regulator? It is fine if you have more than one regulator in the system, but it will slow the flow from one tank to the other marginally even with the reg all the way open. If you can take the auxiliary tank back to just a plain opening with a 1/4" coupler on it, I'd probably do that. Although if you leave a regulator on it as an output, you can also move that tank around and properly power an air tool off it for a short time. Sorry if I misunderstood at all! Let me know.
@@802Garage The check valve is also known as a back flow valve. It's usually the last fitting right where the air actually enters the tank, and stops the air from running backwards through the regulator. On yours, it's the brass fitting visible on the bottom left corner (right by your fingers) at 3:58.
@@frameriteairdrie578 Ahhh that makes perfect sense! I knew what a check valve was, but genuinely did not connect the knowledge. I guess I was under the impression that such a device must be part of the compression housing. Much appreciated.
Where did you get the tank?
Honestly, I have no idea where it came from. I think it may have been my step father's dad's tank for welding. Also may have come with the house. Search Craigslist and FB Marketplace for old air or gas tanks. Just make sure you get one that isn't rusting through or anything. Lots of people upset with me for using a rusty tank in this vid. :P
every ball valve and hose quick connector i guarantee are probably leaking by now! and every hf hose ive ever bought lasted about 6 months!! is it my bad luck? very frustrating
Nope! I advise everyone not to buy HF air couplers anymore. Their solid brass adapters AKA male to female threaded fittings are alright, but any of their quick connects are trash. Their pressure regulators definitely aren't great for flow either. My ball valve is another brand, so that has been fine, hahaha.
My HF rubber hose has also cracked everywhere and started to leak, so I can't really recommend those either. I have a 20+ year old reputable brand hose that is leak free. My rubber hose from Tractor Supply Co. was cheaper and is better too. I never use the PVC or hybrid hoses because it gets so cold where I am.
Seriously though the issue with HF connectors is they are desinged incorrectly. They do not cut enough of an air channel into the sealing peg in the female connector, the rubber washers they use are trash, the spring they use is weak, and they only use 3 ball bearings. The male connector actually has the retaining ridge set too far forward so it doesn't even end up pushing in the release valve all the way, giving you lots of leaks and little flow.
If you want to replace your connectors so they don't leak and not break the bank, I highly recommend any of these three kits.
EPAuto Push - amzn.to/2G2DHX9
Milton ColorFit - amzn.to/2MC1puz
ColorConnex - amzn.to/2sOBkze
The EPAuto are especially nice being push to connect. It really does make your life easier. Any of those will connect and flow better than HF fittings though. There is a lot of good stuff at HF, but their air couplers are not worth their weight in brass. Thanks!
I also just found this set which looks pretty decent. Don't know a ton about it though. I'll mostly be upgrading to push to connect fittings in the future for sure. It's worth it. The absolute best connector I have is a Dixon push to connect with like 8 ball bearings. Probably an $8-12 fitting alone though. Was given to me.
Giraffe Push - amzn.to/2TdgK7b
My Central Pneumatic air compressor from HF lasted about a year :( Never again.
I'm definitely doing this I have a 6.1 horsepower 33gal compressor and 23 gallon tank = 56 gallon uff
Nice. :)
You def have an issue with no condensation drain in the auxiliary tank. Unless of course you have a drain you didn’t mention. That rusted tank with the tiny hole with be a rusted tank with a massive hole in the near future. I recommend finding the leak in the tank and drilling a hole around 1/2 inch. Then welding a 1/4” NPT pipe coupler over that hole and installing a simple drain system. If the leak is in the side of the tank, just turn the tank sideways on a stand you can fabricate for it. Maybe even two wheels and a handle or some kind of cart to hold both that allows the aux tank to sit on it’s side. If the leak is in the bottom, the very bottom... you’ve got it made. Just install drain system as mentioned.
Edit: just noticed how old this vid is. I’m curious if the tank has failed or exploded by now if you didn’t install a drain. I guess you could have it hooked up to a dryer but doesn’t look that way from vid.
Nope tank hasn't exploded. Even if it did fail again, given the thickness of this tank and the pressures I'm working with, it would be pin holes again that gradually enlarge. Can always just invert the tank occasionally. I did pour paint in after welding up the holes to help prevent such an issue. Agreed though, installing a drain would be the move!
@@802Garage LOL that’s actually a simple solution that never crossed my mind. Using the intake as a drain lmao. But tell the other guys on RUclips that 125 PSI won’t turn a tank into a bomb. I think you’re most likely right tho. It prob won’t explode, I was just worried it could.
And thanks for the reply. 🙏🏻
@@Scott-xc5sg You're welcome! I did quite a bit of research into the topic of exploding air tanks and I got tons of comments on it of course. Basically, it's a rare occurrence, though thay doesn't mean you shouldn't be cautious. That said, in order for the tank to violently rupture there has to be a point of cascading failure like a seam weld or end cap. If tiny rust pinholes start in the bottom of the tank again like it had before, it will just start to slowly leak out moisture and then air and won't even stay pressurized. That's exactly how it acted before I fixed the hole. I could air up the tank and it would keep pressure for hours, but if I came back the next day it would be at about half and eventually it would leak all the way down. Get what I am saying? If the tank was going to suddenly explode from having a tiny rust hole, it would have done it one of the numerous times I aired it up while the hole already existed. Plus, if a hole did open in the bottom of this tank, it would have to be extremely large to actually have a chance of propelling the tank upward for example, and it certainly wouldn't blow out the whole bottom at once. More likely it would just open up a whole the size of a pinhole to a toothpick and make some annoying noise and dust. I do think people should be cautious of course, but I think the exploding air tank flag waving is a bit overdone. Not knocking you at all by the way and I always appreciate people looking out for safety.
I've heard the reason tanks do explode is because some people empty the tank and re pressurize constantly.
I have a 2 gallon small compressor. which works great, I want to add like a 10 gallon aux. my know it all friends both of them say it can't b done. I'm going to prove them wrong. I can't c why not. I will purchase the other fittings. which be b like $ 40.00 bucks those fittings r more than $ 25 u showed thank u soo much.
It can absolutely be done. Just keep in mind that the compressor will have to run approximately 6 times as long as usual to fill the now 12 gallon capacity. Every compressor has a rated duty cycle, essentially how many minutes per hour it should run, or how long it can run before needing a break of X time. Basically, if you are using the compressor heavily, you could wear it out prematurely by having it run for so long over and over. I did put links for tons of affordable fittings as well as tanks in the description, so feel free to check those out.
I think plumbing it through the safety valve is better
That's a really good point! I'll look into that in the future and maybe make an updated video. If I set it up the way I'd prefer with a T before the first regulator, it would function that way I believe. Thanks for the comment.
It Needed 3/8” sized couplers that are 1/4” Npt treaded. (Like Milton Gstyle.)
And it need led the tee turned sideways so it exits in a straight line out. Without the 90deg turn.
And loctite as the tread sealer. Not tape, or dope. Loctite is actually king. Go figure...
That compressor with the leak is a bomb waiting to go off
See pinned comment and replies.
Needed 3/8” sized couplers that are 1/4” Npt treaded. (Like Milton Gstyle.)
And need tee turned sideways so it exits in a straight line out. Without the 90deg turn.
And loctite as the tread sealer. Not tape, or dope.
Overall excellent information to get the auxiliary tank plumbed into the air system
Thanks a lot! I actually just spent the last 30 mins or so going through my air fittings and widening/smoothing the internal holes to get better air flow. My impact gun wasn't chooching as well as I needed.
Great video
Thanks!
does the cfm increase
No. That's based on the compressor. It will just give you a larger reserve.
@@802Garage ok..i have the same 21 gallon compressor i wanna paint my mustang but everybody says i need more ,lvlp 🤷🏾♂️ need advice
Sorry for delayed reply, but yes more reserve will help you paint a car because you will have to take less frequent breaks, even if they are a bit longer. Might want to do a dry run with no paint to see how long you can spray before the pressure drops.
Very helpful, thank you
Welcome!
thanks so much...quick simple and easy...great video...
No problem! Hope it helps. :)
Tried that. I didn’t clean the tank out so everything smelled like propane.
Haha hadn't heard that one before.
Thank you for making this
Thanks for the comment! Let me know if you have any questions.
Thanks for your video. Very helpful.
No problem. Thanks for comment!
purchase a plug in block heater and it will work in the winter thats what I did Ill give you the part #
You know... I had thought about that before, but for some reason never even looked it up, hahaha. A suggested item would be great! If I'm still using the compressor this winter, I'll def get one.
No drain on extra tank? Not good
I agree. It's just what I had around. That said, before using it I poured paint inside and sloshed it around to hopefully prevent rust, and I occasionally disconnect everything and empty it out. :)
@@802Garage is there a safety valve on the 2ndary?
No. It will never be over 125 PSI because that's the max of the regulator on the compressor leading to it, plus it could backflow into the compressor and it has a safety valve connected. I agree it's not ideal, but short of someone putting it in a fire or smashing it with a 25 pound sledge, I'm not terribly worried about it.
I was going to comment in the last video on your standby tank I see someone else did ...good stuff! now show us that cart with the cutting torch tanks🤔🤔
That's actually ancient junk that isn't mine. Somebody made it out of angle iron and left over wheels though. Pretty cool, but it weighs a ton.