Looked at the top of mine, sprayed it down, not much of a problem. Had noticed that poking a finger in the bottom drain found crusty stuff. Taking the bottom plate off took me from "why isn't it working?" to "OMFG how was this horribly crusted up thing working?!?" Now I know why annual cleaning is a good idea. And probably lost a bunch of $$$ from low fuel efficiency. Planning to stock mineral oil (manual says clean with a 20% solution), spare gaskets (upper and lower), ionization rod and igniter. Most of those are not available at the local stores. Mineral oil is in the health / first aid area. Edit: horribly crusty means the heat exchanger leaks. Replaced it.
Hey Great vids. Thank you. I have been fighting a flashing 6A (227) and finally got to the bottom of it. Draft. It would start on the 3rd or 4th attempt when cold. Sometimes not at all. But when warm (above say 100 deg F it would always start on the first or second attempt. I had changed Ionization rod, and HSI with shield. Incomeing LP gas pressure was 10.10" WC. Gas Air ratio was 0.00. It would not adjust. I took the top and bottom covers off the heat exchanger last night. It was pretty crusty. Not as much as the one in the vid, but about 1/2 that. I cleaned each little fin one by one, and tried a small, gentle wire brush. it took a long time and I didn't get it anywhere near as clean as yours is. One question for you. How did you clean the heat exchanger? I saw in part one it was all crusty like mine (mostly on the bottom). After I cleaned mine, it starts on the first try every time from cold. Thanks.
How did you get the heat exchange so clean? Buderus recommends painting the tubes with mineral oil and then the chimney sweep function but I have found this not to be effective. So far scaping with an old ionization detector has worked best for me but it takes hours. Am tempted to try Lime Away or vinegar followed by a water spray rinse.
These things are horrible. They consume water because the aluminum heat exchangers are bad after a few years. Not to mention the fans going out as well. After the warranty these things are scrap.
Thank you for the video! Helped explain the issue we’re having associated with that code. Saw the first video as well. Thank you! 👍
Looked at the top of mine, sprayed it down, not much of a problem.
Had noticed that poking a finger in the bottom drain found crusty stuff. Taking the bottom plate off took me from "why isn't it working?" to "OMFG how was this horribly crusted up thing working?!?"
Now I know why annual cleaning is a good idea. And probably lost a bunch of $$$ from low fuel efficiency.
Planning to stock mineral oil (manual says clean with a 20% solution), spare gaskets (upper and lower), ionization rod and igniter. Most of those are not available at the local stores. Mineral oil is in the health / first aid area.
Edit: horribly crusty means the heat exchanger leaks. Replaced it.
Hey Great vids. Thank you. I have been fighting a flashing 6A (227) and finally got to the bottom of it. Draft. It would start on the 3rd or 4th attempt when cold. Sometimes not at all. But when warm (above say 100 deg F it would always start on the first or second attempt. I had changed Ionization rod, and HSI with shield. Incomeing LP gas pressure was 10.10" WC. Gas Air ratio was 0.00. It would not adjust. I took the top and bottom covers off the heat exchanger last night. It was pretty crusty. Not as much as the one in the vid, but about 1/2 that. I cleaned each little fin one by one, and tried a small, gentle wire brush. it took a long time and I didn't get it anywhere near as clean as yours is. One question for you. How did you clean the heat exchanger? I saw in part one it was all crusty like mine (mostly on the bottom). After I cleaned mine, it starts on the first try every time from cold. Thanks.
How did you get the heat exchange so clean? Buderus recommends painting the tubes with mineral oil and then the chimney sweep function but I have found this not to be effective. So far scaping with an old ionization detector has worked best for me but it takes hours. Am tempted to try Lime Away or vinegar followed by a water spray rinse.
Manual says 1 part mineral oil to 4 parts water.
These things are horrible. They consume water because the aluminum heat exchangers are bad after a few years. Not to mention the fans going out as well. After the warranty these things are scrap.
Was the corrosion from the inside or outside of the aluminum? Was air getting into the circulating water? Was some chemical added to the water?