A cheap foam coat is masonry mortar mix with 50% water 50% titebond 2 glue. The glue makes the cement mix creamery, help suspend sand particles in mix and allows a certain amount of flexing. Mix to a thin gravy consistency and brush on like this. You can sand it afterwards if you want a fine finish...
Thank you for your tip on making cheap foam coat is masonry mortar mix with 50% water 50% titebond 2 glue. Can you really sand it afterwards. One of the things I don't like about the foam coat is that it has a gritty surface and once it dries you can't sand it. And do you have any other tips or instruction about the application of your mixture. Thx!
That the coloring is more workable on the Drylok'ed surface makes sense. The hard coating is a lot like masonry, in that it's naturally porous. Since the pigment is suspended in water, the hard coating will quickly absorb most of the water, leaving the pigment deposited where it was sprayed. Drylok is a waterproofing sealant, so it prevents most of the absorption, so you can still push the tint around until the water evaporates. Of course, it's one thing to think about this stuff and another to see it demonstrated so well. Thanks!
After watching your video I dove head first in prop making and your videos are always well layed out steps and very informative! Thanks for all your hard work!
Thank you. Made my first prop. It took many attempts to get it smooth. Finally got it smooth then it cracked because the foam slightly bent. Also I’m having trouble on sharp edges.
Once you seal with masonry sealer and then paint it, do you have to reseal it? Have you gone back and looked at old projects to see if they have faded?
Maybe I missed something but which foam is this manufactured by as there is one by Rosco and one by HWFF. I'm in the UK and it's quite difficult getting both of these.
sorry for my ignorance, but does this become rock hard like the foam beneath it can no longer be squished or does it just create a hard finish that will still crack if pushed in? im trying to coat foam backsplash panels to a hard finish so if i bump them they wont depress or tear. plus i have cats, so i dont want them to destroy it either. will it hold up to them? lastly, can you paint the final product or do you have to add the dyes?
It all depends on how many layers of foam coat you use. If it’s hit hard enough it can still crack. I do at least 3 layers. Yes you can paint the foam coat after it’s dry
Do you think that could be applied with a roller to avoid any brush strokes? Also about how pliable is this product? Like if the foam was to be pushed in pretty hard would you see lots of cracking?
I would think that a paint roller would get the first coat on quicker and possibly the second coat as well and be free of those application swirls all together...just saying!
Unfortunately, it does not work like that. Have you ever tried to apply mortar with a roller? Probablly not, trowels are used. Exterior Foam Coat is essentially a thin mortar.
This is what I’m wondering. I have the regular not outdoor as I’ll paint it then do a 2k apart finish which is super durable. Did you ever get a really smooth finish? Thanks!!
A cheap foam coat is masonry mortar mix with 50% water 50% titebond 2 glue. The glue makes the cement mix creamery, help suspend sand particles in mix and allows a certain amount of flexing. Mix to a thin gravy consistency and brush on like this. You can sand it afterwards if you want a fine finish...
Ruth Doyle great tip! Thanks
Thank you for your tip on making cheap foam coat is masonry mortar mix with 50% water 50% titebond 2 glue. Can you really sand it afterwards. One of the things I don't like about the foam coat is that it has a gritty surface and once it dries you can't sand it. And do you have any other tips or instruction about the application of your mixture. Thx!
I tried that, it doesn’t work! Ruined my art piece 😡
That the coloring is more workable on the Drylok'ed surface makes sense. The hard coating is a lot like masonry, in that it's naturally porous. Since the pigment is suspended in water, the hard coating will quickly absorb most of the water, leaving the pigment deposited where it was sprayed. Drylok is a waterproofing sealant, so it prevents most of the absorption, so you can still push the tint around until the water evaporates. Of course, it's one thing to think about this stuff and another to see it demonstrated so well. Thanks!
that looks really good! I really like how the high spots pop when you applied the tints
Thank you so much for making this video! Incredibly helpful to watch how you mix it and apply it. HWF should put a link to this on their website.
Pamela Adolf Thank you! You can message me with any questions you may have
Thank you so much for this video. It was so helpful.
After watching your video I dove head first in prop making and your videos are always well layed out steps and very informative! Thanks for all your hard work!
Thank you. Made my first prop. It took many attempts to get it smooth. Finally got it smooth then it cracked because the foam slightly bent. Also I’m having trouble on sharp edges.
Wonderful, Bravo! You have made my day.
Amazing video. Thank you
Just mix the dry mix with the tint. Two or three colors all worked on separatly ... at the same time
Once you seal with masonry sealer and then paint it, do you have to reseal it? Have you gone back and looked at old projects to see if they have faded?
Maybe I missed something but which foam is this manufactured by as there is one by Rosco and one by HWFF. I'm in the UK and it's quite difficult getting both of these.
This is great! Thank you so much. Where is that incredible round brush from?
perhaps a vaccum cleaner?!
after puting a foam coat . is it ok to fiberglass it??
sorry for my ignorance, but does this become rock hard like the foam beneath it can no longer be squished or does it just create a hard finish that will still crack if pushed in?
im trying to coat foam backsplash panels to a hard finish so if i bump them they wont depress or tear. plus i have cats, so i dont want them to destroy it either. will it hold up to them?
lastly, can you paint the final product or do you have to add the dyes?
It all depends on how many layers of foam coat you use. If it’s hit hard enough it can still crack. I do at least 3 layers. Yes you can paint the foam coat after it’s dry
@@karawalkerdesigns167 I have a question, does it help the styrofoam to be less porous?
@@bellamoments5908 As long as you seal the exterior foam coat, yes
Do you think that could be applied with a roller to avoid any brush strokes? Also about how pliable is this product? Like if the foam was to be pushed in pretty hard would you see lots of cracking?
If you use a roller it will leave a heavier stippled finish
Good, thanks
I would think that a paint roller would get the first coat on quicker and possibly the second coat as well and be free of those application swirls all together...just saying!
Unfortunately, it does not work like that. Have you ever tried to apply mortar with a roller? Probablly not, trowels are used. Exterior Foam Coat is essentially a thin mortar.
Thanks
What are materyal u used?
Can you use the hard coat on Styrofoam balls
YES, it forms a VERY hard surface
I'm trying to find a product that will fill porous styrofoam.
Foam coat will fill porous styrofoam. There are many foam coatings. It all depends on the finial loom you are after
can i sand it for very smoth finished?
Hot wire foam factories "exterior foam coat" can NOT be sanded at all. They do carry a couple other products which can be sanded.
This is what I’m wondering. I have the regular not outdoor as I’ll paint it then do a 2k apart finish which is super durable. Did you ever get a really smooth finish? Thanks!!
What the heck did I just watch?