Comparing ROTATING NOZZLE TYPES; MAKE YOUR 'HEAD' SPIN ! - "GET" JETTING with JONESIE
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- Опубликовано: 2 май 2024
- In this segment of "GET" JETTING, Steve "Jonesie" Jones discusses the different types of ROTATING JETTER NOZZLES on the market. Understand the difference between the various rotating nozzles on the market, how they function, and best applications.
"GET" JETTING!
www.jettersnorthwest.com
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Nice… great explanation…
Thanks Jose! All the best for 2022 sir
I have a 4 gpm, 4000 psi machine. I also have a turbo nozzle. Looking to clear roots from 80 year-old 4” cast iron sewer main. Would that work, or is a turbo nozzle stronger than a jetter? I’m worried about cracking the old pipes if the jet is too strong.
it just depends on the strength of the pipe - if it is normal then a turbo shouldn't be a problem, because high-GPM jetter machines with root-cutting nozzles like a Reaper or warthog hit the pipe walls harder than a turbo at only 4gpm. Question I have is how are you going to get the turbo nozzle to pull itself into the pipeline?
Gerry from Chicago My question is how wide at the widest point is that super sweeper will it fit in a 6” line
Yes - it is about 4-1/4 inches (4.25") at it's widest point; here's a picture in a 6": photos.app.goo.gl/Ed27EQN8Qm6DJdGd7
Hi. Do you sell your nozzles on Amazon?
I am thinking of starting a sewer and drain cleaning business using my pressure washer.
What hose size would you recommend?
Many thanks from South Africa 🇿🇦
We do not work through Amazon, yet we do have many nozzles online. Step one is knowing the outputs of your pressure washer: (a) What FLOW does it do in GPM or LPM? (b) what PRESSURE does it do in PSI or BAR?
what can I use for hard built-up silt/clay in a 4in. corrugated footer drain in basement? Rotating chain cutter?
Chain-Cutters are not good for silt; they are for removing scale-buildup and roots. For silt I would recommend a "WT"Warthog (if you have at least a 6-gpm jetter) or a RootRanger / ENZ-Bend style if you have a smaller jetter around 4gpm). The idea is nozzle with "fat" rotating jets to break up the silt
Here's a weirdo-but-sincere question: if I wanted to hook of of these nozzle types up to compressed air to safely clean out dryer vents, which would you recommend?
Yep I've heard of people doing that! Just don't expect the nozzle to "pull" the hose in nearly as hard as it would with HI-PSI water. A basic "flusher" nozzle (which does NOT spin) is your best bet, and they are cheaper (the Rotating nozzles in the video wont spin well under just air-pressure). If your hose-end has 1/4" threads here's a goodie: shop.jettersnorthwest.com/collections/1-4-jetter-nozzles/products/1-4-grease-ball-nozzle
Dude that's actually genius.
Hi what would you recommend for 4000 psi 4gpm for cutting roots would reaper 1/4 inch size 6 work or is there something better
We love the REAPERs but the #6 will only build around 2500psi with a 4-GPM machine because of the #6 orifice-size (#6 means it takes 6-GPM to reach 4000psi). Unfortunately they don't yet offer anything smaller. Since you only have 4-GPM to work with, a better choice would be a "single-jet" cutter nozzle such as the ROOT-RANGER shop.jettersnorthwest.com/collections/1-4-jetter-nozzles/products/root-ranger-nozzle or, on the high-performance end, an ENZ-reverse nozzle. With these the only negative is they have to get past the blockage to jet it because the cutter-jet is out the rear to also provide thrust into the pipe - that's why they only need one jet
I need a jet to unclogged a 1 inch id copper pipe. This blockage is a very hard calcium deposits because of hard water. Can you recommend a tool for this purpose..... I am using power washer.
2 initial questions: (a) What is the GPM and PSI of your power washer? And (b) how hard is the calcium? Is it so hard you need a chisel to break it up -- OR -- could you scratch it out with a wire-brush (if you could get a brush to it). The density of the buildup to be removed is a VERY important factor, as is how much GPM/PSI power you have available to feed a nozzle
I have a kranzle 2160 and my 4 inch sewer pipe has a lot of lime from the hard water in our area which catch the paper and solids, what would you recommend to clean the lime out of the pipe
Hmm it looks like the 2160 does only 2.9gpm which is pretty light for de-scaling lime -- we like to see the GPM at least match the 4" pipe-diameter for scouring the pipe, or double that GPM for professional "rooter class" cleaning. But to answer your question I would use a rotating "controlled-speed" Grease-Hog type with no forward jet -- no guarantees since I don't know how hardened the lime scale is, but if it not too dense this will work well: shop.jettersnorthwest.com/collections/1-4-jetter-nozzles/products/1-4-grease-hog-nozzle?variant=47666522685747
@@JETTERSnorthwest thank you very much for that..much appreciated
I have a storm drain with roots. I only have a 3200 psi, 2.8 gpm pressure washer. Does any of these heads work on a smaller system and would still cut roots?
What size pipe are you working with? Typically you would want more GPM for root cutting but you could possibly use a Root Ranger nozzle. It is a little bulky and not suggested for under 4" pipe.
@@JETTERSnorthwest It's definitely under 4" and I believe probably 2"
Sorry, I don't really have much in the way of root cutting for a 2" pipe. The new 1/4" Reaper would be great in a straight 2" line but it will not corner well and it would still need more GPM than 2.8.
@@JETTERSnorthwest all good thank you for the info.
You didn’t cover the 1/4 in warthog. Best nozzle for floor drains, down spots any 1in -4in pipes. I only use it on floor drains and down spouts
Love the "WV-1/4" warthogs! It is unique as a "Whole-Head/medium-speed" rotating nozzle - an excellent combo for grease and smaller drains (max 8gpm). We were trying not to name-names too much. Here's a video that involves the WV-1/4: ruclips.net/video/ixa9zXOLXpM/видео.html Thanks again for the comments
Makes sense
If you could only have three nozzles what would you have in your tool box?
Basic PENETRATOR, REAPER, and WARTHOG !!
for mainline Standard head for clearing blockages, all back (no forward ), and mad dog rotating nozzle
For smaller limes three forward a couple back nozzle (flushing ) , all back to pull grease out of kitchens, and spinner rotating nozzle to clean
Have a main drain back up with no roots?
Oh yes - other common problems are grease, scale, sludge, dirt/rocks from a broken pipe, animals, and a big problem today is a buildup of "flushable" wipes. Or a combination of any of those.
I need the 6 rear and one front..how to buy..?
You can email our parts team at: sales@seattlepump.com and provide them this information so that they can choose the right nozzle: (1) What thread-size should it have to screw onto your jetter's hose-end?, (2) What flow does your jetter do in GPM [or LPM]?, (3) What pressure is your jetter in PSI [or BAR]?, (4) What size/diameter is your jetter's hose and how long is it?
May sound like a crazy question but with the lack of people who offer this service here where I live do you think this would be a good business to try starting up? I'm sure there's tons to learn but it doesn't seem like the initial investment would set one back too far.
Indeed, contractors that sell/do hydro-Jetting services for sewers & drains do quite well once they build a customer list
@@JETTERSnorthwest Thank you
How much price ₹ of all nozzle
Here's a web-link: shop.jettersnorthwest.com/collections/all-nozzles If you dont see what you're looking for call us at 877-901-1936 ;-)
Machine ya kahan per mile
IMPORTANT: this jetter requires a 115-volt electrical service to operate.
shop.jettersnorthwest.com/collections/electric-jetters
Roto-Drill vs Reaper?
We love them both, but the REAPER's rotary parts - specifically the "Rotor" and "Seat" - are made of Tungsten Carbide ("TC"), while the the ROTODRILL's rotary parts are Ceramic. TC is MUCH more durable than ceramic and this is a factor because in both types the Rotor "smacks" into the Seat with each startup (there has to be a slight looseness between the Rotor & Seat; that's why theses nozzles rattle when you shake them). The REAPER's TC parts handle the start/stop jetting-process better than its less expensive Ceramic competitors. Also, the Reaper's TC Rotor/Seat create an incredibly true "circle" spray-pattern which speeds up the forward-cutting action vs ROTODRILL. ruclips.net/video/DWDn1MRDvXM/видео.html
I've been using the reaper 3 years now. 12 gallon per minute pump at 3700 psi. I remove calcium out of sewer lines with this as well have cleared 6" nearly plugged for 60 ft with reaper in 3 hrs. Need minimum capacity what I am using with the reaper. I now own 2 reapers. Easy to rebuild too.
I think the high speed ones are worthless and kind of a trap for beginners, because when they hear rotating nozzle, they imagine something like the warthog, what is super effective, but in reality they get a very low performance mistmaking machine and these nozzles arent even that cheap (100-200$ for a 1/8 nozzle). These spinners make very fine water vapour with close to no impact instead of real water jets. I had one of these for trying out, and i could put my hand into the water very close to the nozzle without feeling considerable impact (im not recommending this method for others).
Better choose something like the grease ball with 8 rear jets for better coverage on smaller pipes, and use the high-tech ones on bigger pipes.
Yep agreed! Like we mentioned, the "controlled-speed" ones that make a "buzz" sound rather than a "siren" sound have better impact and much less "misting" than the cheap spinners, as you mentioned