I have an extremely low backside! I finally figured that out when I stood sideways in front of a mirror and then put a yard stick between my legs. I was shocked at how much the yard stick angled down in the back!!! When I saw the difference in levels with my own eyes, it made me more confident in scooping the crotch. I hadn’t done it aggressively enough until that time. I’ve gradually increased the scoop until I feel like I have it just about right now. It feels wonderful to have pants that fit! Thank you for your generosity in sharing information like this. You are a true treasure trove of knowledge!
So happy to hear that! I love that you checked out your shape from the side view (using a yardstick to see what the angle of the base of your crotch is)... Thanks for the kind words and for following along with me!
Thank you! I have a low butt and have really struggled to get a good fit. I have read several books about pants fitting and finally found my shape in "Pants for Real People" under the subheading called "Crotch Oddities: High Front-Low Back". I found this to be a little insulting but useful. You are absolutely the best teacher I have found. You have explained the fitting very well, and don't imply that I am an oddity at all.
I am on the same journey. In my twenties I made most of my pants and never had a problem but then maybe I had no idea they actually didn't fit. Anyway, fast forward to 60 and I cannot make a pair of pants that fit. I have recently purchased "Pants for Real People" and Nancy Zeman's book. Plus I have the Sure Fit Design Pants Kit and I still cannot get the pants to fit. I am so frustrated but I keep trying. I have watched tutorial after tutorial. I am looking forward to the Top Down review next week because that was my next step. I just want a simple slim-fit pant design that I can make up out of different colors and feel good wearing.
Thank you for the kind words... We all need to love our bodies the way they are! I think the things that make us unique, make us special! Thanks for fitting along with me :)
@@sibyllolson6747 My mistake was that I carried the same problems forward from one muslin to the next one. It took forever to find the basic mistakes. I was correcting the wrong things.
@@sibyllolson6747 I have been there too. I surely miss when the pattern almost always fit, fit right out of the pkg. I not only have a low butt, but a flat one too. Might say it's gone missing.
You are a fabulous clothing teacher. Explaining each step in detail and providing illustrations makes a wonderful teacher. (45 years teaching clothing design) ❤
I'm ready and waiting. i love the entire process of garment design, from the original design, to drafting (don't like too many mock ups) then adjusting, discovering fit secrets, finally sewing, and WEARING. My sister calls me 'eccentric!' yup thats me. I'm 66 and in my early 40's decided to dress according to me figure rather than fashion. Recently, I discovered a whole world of Retro/vintage ladies. ahhhh! bliss
Thank goodness you got this right. LOL. I was worried you were going to say it was not necessary as so many do. I ABSOLUTELY need that scooping and have used it for years. Thanks Jennifer.
New subscriber here from Northern uk. I am a sewing beginner but very enthusiastic after making a pair of Pyjama bottoms from material bought for the purpose 40 years ago ! They are so comfortable I’m delighted. I had no pattern only my own measurements. I have a very high waist so trousers never fit well. I’m 70 but shapely and slim. Your teaching is excellent. Thankyou.
Hi, without your series I would not have worked out that this is what I needed. I am an athletic build and my behind is high. So I need a longer crotch hook, but also a wider crotch high up. All previous amends gave me a massive rise at the rear (to cover my behind) but were still tight when I sat down! So thanks.
I have a very low, very flat butt with a short full belly. After many years of wondering why my crotch never fit, I finally used a "bendable curve" and discovered my problem. My back crotch curve actually dips lower than the inseam line by 1/2 inch. The inseam line must remain higher to meet my short front crotch inseam. I have read that this is fairly common for 75 year old ladies, and I am so happy to see you addressing this. Thanks!
Thanks for demoing this adjustment! This is one I have to apply when sewing pants in order for a good fit. I'd love to take another in person class with you. I really liked you showing the adjustment on paper prior to just sewing (winging) a sewn adjustment. It shoes the "why" of the adjustment!
So happy you enjoyed this tutorial.. and I'd love to see you in another in-person class! Next big event? ...I'll be at the National ASG Conference In NYC this summer
@@JSternDesigns Could you, please, demonstrate adjustments for high, curves and full derrière from standard sizing commercial patterns? Thank you for sharing.
@@Bright-It Yes! That’s a great topic, combining a few different fit challenges in one. If you have a pics showing me how your pants fit now, that will help me fine tune the adjustment:). You can email me at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com
Lots of info, thank you! Nothing worse than a constant wedgie from making pants from a pattern. I always have to shorten the front, scoop the back curve, and slash and spread for more rise. I am underweight for my height, I can’t believe I have to alter my back patterns so much. But I am sure a happy camper when all that work feels( not shows) results.
I recently uses a commercial pattern for a pair of trousers for work, I did not make a muslin. When I basted it up the inseam did not match up and the crotch felt uncomfortable. I gave up like you said most do, but after pondering for 2 days ...lol and then I tried scooping the crotch curve and lowered the back crotch curve to reduce the inseam length and it fits much better now. 👍
Nice Job & Good Save! I love it that you walked away and then circled back... I do that myself when a pattern is giving me trouble! Thanks for fitting along with me
I'm very glad you've done this video. I'm a relatively novice pants fitter and was super excited initially to see some of the new methods aimed at the home sewer on Instagram and the like. But then I saw the not altering the crotch curve advice and literally could not see how it would ever work for my body. I am petite, have a prominent butt, a quite low butt and also full thighs (especially front an inner). I can't see how I will possibly get a fit without making crotch curve changes. I'm really looking forward to your review and any following series.
:) I'm so happy you're here fitting along with me! ...Keep me posted if you end up with specific questions I can help you with. I can add them to my list of pants fitting topics!
Thank you for pointing out both how silly it is to do the fancy adjustment vs the easy one, and how an adjustment corresponds to a specific body feature, and should only be used if you have that! Elementary, but clearly still escapes a lot of people, so thanks for the common sense injection
Omg yes I am thrilled you are doing this series because this is probably my number 1 fitting conundrum and I feel guilty almost when attempting scooping because of all this anti-scooping talk lol!
It's amazing how a little change can make a big difference. I always have to remember that what I do on one pattern piece will be doubled when I cut the fabric!
It is amazing how less is more! & all horizontal adjustments double... but vertical adjustments are not doubled... For example if you take 1/2 off a side seam... that's an inch across the full garment. If you shorten a leg 1/2" ... it's 1/2" shorter on both legs! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I've tried the crotch-scoop method, but it all seemed so random and kind of weird! I love the way you show what's happening with the pattern change in a more precise way. I think I'll try it this way, then if I like the results, I'll probably be able to remember what the correct scoop looks like and just eyeball a scoop. But this technique will give me much more confidence! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
You're so welcome... I'll also try to share other reasons for scooping the crotch seam... This particular one is for a low butt... There are other reasons and the way you would scoop to change the shape of the crotch curve also varies! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I put the pants on inside out and get my washable marker, pinch and mark, to help see how much I need to remove. Works for me, so I can take them off and see what needs to be done.
Excellent - looking forward to your whole series on pants fitting. Could you mention how it changes your pants if you need to wear a Poise Pad - @ 1/2" thick? Would this lower my butt so that I need to make a low butt adjustment or lengthen my crotch curve? Many women of a certain age would appreciate hearing what to do as it is one major reason we sew our own pants. Thanks!
Really looking forward to this Jenn. I have the Threads magazine where they talk about the top down method of fitting but haven’t tried it. Thank you so much!
:))) I spent some time on Zoom talking with Ruth... she is such a lovely person and I'm so excited to share her method and how it can help your pants fitting! Stay tuned
Hi Jennifer Stern, I watched this video on crotch scooping and would like to share a few thoughts: When I was researching pants fitting, one of the problems with “crotch scooping”, was that it was framed as a debate, “yes” or “no”. But this evades the real question of “Does it help to achieve a better fitting pant?”. Obviously the answer to this question is both “yes” and “no”. So, TDCO is NOT about being pro- or anti-scooping. If you read the published Threads article on TDCO, the word “scooping” does not even appear. A pattern can be fitted to a body in a number of different ways, there is no “Right” or “Wrong” way, just consequences for any particular adjustment. If you are someone who finds a scooping adjustment is needed, you will find that TDCO accommodates all the adjustments necessary for your body. Like every other seam or dart, all parts of the pattern are available and may need alteration to create a customized fit. Obviously the challenge is the diversity of pant styles which is why I try to reference the look intended by the designer. The more one understands the pattern and design, the better chance of making the appropriate fitting decision. IthacaMaven
Hi Ruth, This video is not about TDCO, it was a response to all the negative social media post that were floating around instagram over the summer about scooping and other pants fitting adjustments that changed the shape of the draft. I agree with you that there is no right or wrong way to fit pants. The reason why I love TDCO is because it minimizes the number of traditional pants fitting adjustments that may be necessary after you have balanced the front/back leg. Thanks for watching
Really helpful video - I'd reduced the length of back leg due to flat butt, only to see all this extra fabric pooling between my legs. Voila - need to scoop as well. At least it's not too late on this one. Thanks!
Yay, happy to hear! Another thing to check for a flat butt is the angle of the straight part of the CB seam. If it has a significant angle (up towards the side seam), that can also cause wrinkles... Straighten it up a little. Stay tuned for this week's Fit Tip Tuesday! Thanks for fitting along with me
I’m so glad you did this video! I took a pants class 3 yrs ago and the teacher drew a side silhouette of everyone’s behind 😄low and behold I have a low seat! Therefore I always need to scoop out my crotch or I have saggy pants! 😆
I love the way you show fitting adjustments. They just make sense when you explain them! I spent weeks scooping my crotch curve but like so many fitting issues, I had to combine that adjustment with another (lengthening the crotch extension) to get the right fit. I’m really anxious for your take on the top down center our method as I just bought the Threads magazine with the article. Off topic question: do you have a pattern for that drawstring back pack behind you? My grand niece needs one of those for dance class!
Thanks so much... and I'm excited to share the TopDownCenterOut method with you! ...I'm teaching the knit knap sack class for Stitches Events (virtually) on September 9th... Here's a link to the class info! (The knap sack in the background was made from two cashmere sweaters that I wore forever and had holes in it... I wish I had "feel-vision" It's so soft :) stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-expo-at-home-september-2022/sew-knits-on-your-machine-mini-knapsack-with-felted-sweaters-or-knit-fabrics/
Yessss if you scoop the crotch and take out width along the CB edge, you will need to let out the side seam to maintain the width of the pattern piece, thanks for fitting along with me.
Precisely what I do. With a full thigh adjustment. With a sway back and full tummy. I have a forward tilted pelvis, with scoliosis and lordosis. Yeah. Lots of adjusting.
Very important video! Thank you! Could you include a picture or drawing of a bodytype that you are referring. When english is not first language, these terms like low butt can be somewhat confusing. Thank you!
First off I can't believe there are educators or other sewists that are not willing or able to help. Isn't the whole point of custom sewing a garment is to get a good fit? Makes no sense. The methods you showed are great and fully demonstrated. But does one go about determining how much to either scoop of "hinge" out? I can't seem to picture how that is determined. I have been a long time fan of yours! Thanks again for a great tutorial.
:) When it comes to scooping less is more... Scoop a little bit, take out the stitching from the original seam in the scoop... Then try on. If you still need more room, you can repeat the adjustment and scoop a little more. ...Keep in mind, as you scoop lower, you're going down to a more narrow part of the leg... so you may need to let out the side seam a little bit. Hope this helps!
I look forward to these videos. I have been practicing on a Simplicity pattern making elastic waist pj pants. My body shape has a fairly flat front; I hold any extra weight in my butt and thighs. The pattern I have has a lot of baggy fabric in the front crotch. I looked at the pattern all laid out after I made the first pair and noticed the only change between pattern sizes was adjusted only in the side seams, and no adjustment in the crotch. I cut out the smaller size for the front piece only and made a new pair in muslin. It didn’t really make a difference with the baggy crotch. I’m not a tall person, so I honestly think this might be a rise issue but don’t know how to fix it.
Excellent explanation Jennifer! I learned I needed to do that scoop, from either from Cynthia Guffey or Sandra Betzina during an expo class. When I saw the title of your video I was afraid you were going to say that it shouldn’t be done… and I would have had to disagree with you 😂
Hi Jen! Blessed be those that only have a low but. Mine is low (producing wrinkles under the butt) but round in the "cheeks" area ("full butt") and pulling there in most of my attempts. And I have a forward tilted pelvis, too. So, I am stumbling in a vicious circle of adjustments (forgot to mention knock legs, too) with one contrary to another... I am not giving up, I have constructed a "decent" made to measure pattern but none of my about ten muslins is really what I expected. I do know there must be some wrinkles at the back to enable moving but not too many - and I want my pants to be comfortable and not to pull when walking... I am going to make rather loose than tight pants. Perhaps these are a few ideas for you to consider... And thank you for your generous sharing your know-how! Btw, I would appreciate a list of your "pant-fitting-series" in one place as I usually come across these just randomly...
You sound a lot like me. I do a tilted pelvis adjustment where I decrease the front rise an equal amount that I increase the back rise. I cut from the lower front crotch (around hip level) to the side seam and overlap 3/8 inch and I make the opposite adjustment on the back where I cut from the lower back crotch (around hip level) to the side and increase by 3/8 inch. I also have to scoop out the back crotch because my backside is that low! As to the pulling in the front, I found that for me personally it is caused by full front thighs. I only have to do a full front thigh adjustment on some patterns, though. Jennifer has a video called “How to Adjust a Pant Pattern for an Athletic Front Thigh” that is very informative. If you are making loose pants this might not be an issue for you, though. I would really encourage you not to give up. I know it’s a lot of work, but it is so amazing to finally have pants that fit! I don’t think I realized how comfortable pants could really be because I’d never had a pair that truly fit me well. Also after you get a good fitting pair of pants, you can use that pattern to overlay on other patterns to give you an idea of what adjustments you need to make to get a good fit on them, so you will see long term rewards in your investment of time now. Honestly though, I frequently make the same pattern over and over again; it's that comfortable. I mainly use Burda patterns because they seem to be the easiest for me to get a good fit with. I put off trying to get pants to fit for years, and I wish I had just soldiered on instead of thinking it was too hard. I really hope that you can get a good fit in your pants.
That is challenging when you have so many things going on! I do have a pants fitting playlist. When I went to get the link to share with you, I realized that I'm doing a terrible job keeping them organized in there... there's only 5 videos in the playlist. I will gather them up and put them in there, so check back with this link in a little bit! ruclips.net/p/PLseQVksFDkNtpx8xh7oYgStwugAp3kgJ9
My Pleasure! The Good News is that you can scoop a small amount... let's say 1/4"... then you can fine-tune and increase the scoop if you need to remove more of the fabric trapped underneath your crotch seam... Just remember to take out the stitching of the original seam where you scoop to release the fabric. Thanks for fitting along with me
There is a gentleman who had a sewing show many years ago who calls those seams the stride, and he said that everyone who makes their own pants should measure out that area to make sure that their pants fits properly. He said to measure then compare to the pattern, and if needed make the necessary changes. Everyone has different body shapes, so why is it surprising that you should measure the stride and make the necessary changes?
:)Thank you for sharing that... I love that the crotch seam was called the "Stride" ... & I'm not surprised at all. No matter which pants fitting method you use, adjusting the measurement of the crotch is part of the process. Thanks for watching.
Would you mind defining “low butt” and how to tell if you have one…for us old folks? I have a problem with all commercial fit clothes and patterns where the front comes up to my bra and the seat pulls down below my underwear band. I’ve always heard it called tilted waist. Is it similar?
I figured out scooping the back crotch line on my own. I was having so many fitting issues with my old lady body (anytime I glimpse myself naked in a mirror I always say, "Hey Grandma. How ya doin' ? " I look just like my Grandma from neck to knees.) I spent a HUGE amount of time studying posture and finally realized that even though my bum was now quite flat, the fat that had been there in my youth hadn't been absorbed miraculously into my body, it was still hanging around well beneath my bum. Scooping did the job!
omg this was soooo informative. I have a question as well as a request if possible. would it be possible to show pictures of actual people to get a clear visual of the body type were trying to fit? im asking because i have a very large round behind that i believed was high because i normally need a sway back adjustment but now I'm not so sure because i think i get fabric caught in my curve as well. so now im confused lol!!
Yesssss.... I should have shown what a low butt looks like. Here's a tutorial showing what a low butt looks like vs a flat butt (to go along with this tutorial) ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html ...If you look at yourself from the side view in a mirror... notice where the fullest part of your butt is along your CB seam. This will tell you if you have a low, average or high full butt. ... It is possible to have two of these shapes. Some people have a high round hip and a low butt. If you need help deciding... you can send me photos at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com and I'll take a look! Thanks for fitting along with me
I truly enjoy the information you are sharing in all these videos onTip Tuesday and Fab Fit Friday. So much value. Do you have or have you considerd putting this information into a book? Thank you for being so generous with you knowledge and time.
:) I'm starting to offer PDF Companions for my video tutorials. There is one for the Basic Bodice Draft Along... & I will be compiling a PDF Companion for this series (when it's finished). Here's a link to the PDF Companion for the Basic Bodice Draft Along jsterndesigns.com/product/pdf-companion-for-the-basic-bodice-draft-along/ Use Coupon Code Bodice5 for 50% off!
Most of the pants fitting tips I share can be used for men and women's pants. Men do need a little extra ease in the front inseam and the front crotch curve may be a little longer too. Please keep me posted if you have specific fitting challenges.. I can add them to my list. I'm also working on a Man Jeans pattern... it will be out early next year!
Great tutorial! I struggle with pants fitting, so I’m really looking forward to your future videos. I’ve heard some people speak about using the L ruler to determine measurements. Have you ever used this method? Thanks!!
Thanks! I have played with using the L shaped ruler to measure my crotch depth... It's another tool to use to help capture as much info as you can when adjusting your crotch length!
If you sew along the original crotch curve a little deeper, that will add a little length... You can try a small scoop, see how they fit/feel... then scoop a little more if you need. The one thing to keep an eye on is that as you sew down deeper, you're going down to a more narrow part of the leg... so make sure you have enough ease so they don't start to feel too tight around your full hip! Thanks for fitting along with me
With adjustments like scooping... less can be enough. If you scoop a little bit 1/4" - 3/8" ...and you find that you need a little more ... you can scoop again. If you start out scooping a lot like 3/4" or 1", you may over shoot what you needed to take out and create new fitting issues! Hope this helps :) ...Also did you see my new tutorial sharing how you scoop the crotch... Sometimes scooping down is what you need... but sometimes it may be the back of the crotch curve that needs to be scooped... ruclips.net/video/MZ96dKMeIp8/видео.html
Yes it's true that scooping along the straight part and the top of the back crotch curve takes out horizontal ease. If you scoop the base of the crotch curve, you can pull up the pants farther... This drags up the smaller part of the pant higher. This may also require you to let out the side seams a little bit. :)
Hey JSD! I belong the the LBC (low but club). When you were saying that fabric gets bunched up on a person with a low butt, where you saying the fit is like a wedgy? I'm well acquainted with that syndrome.
If you have a low butt (meaning you curve inward toward the inseam significantly lower than the front curve), you may be "pushing" excess length down, creating a puddle or I like to call it a "kick" behind the knee. Scooping down along the back crotch curve will pick up that fabric and transfer it to above the crotch seam. If you need extra length from waist to crotch in the back, you're good! If you don't need that extra length... You can pleat it out a across your CB seam to 0 at side seam... Or you can pull it out of the waistline. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
To determine if you need to remove fabric under the crotch curve for a low butt, it's more about how much fabric is trapped under the crotch curve than measuring for it. I recommend making a small adjustment and trying the muslin on to see if it smoothed the fabric under the crotch curve. If you still have more fabric puddling under ... scoop a little more. I''m sorry this video didn't have lots of info about this adjustment. The purpose of it was to illustrate that you may be scooping the crotch curve even if you make adjustments that don't touch the actual edge of the crotch. :) This tutorial has a lot more info in it about what a low butt is and how to adjust for it. ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
I've learned from you to analyze which patterns work best for my shape. Now I make sure I start with a pattern that is at least close to my shape and adjust from there. Jen, do you have a pattern for the backpack behind you in the video?
Hi Caryl, I'm teaching this class during the September Stitches Expo on Zoom :) Here's a link to the class. If this doesn't work for you, I will be listing the pattern separately as soon as I get a chance! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-expo-at-home-september-2022/sew-knits-on-your-machine-mini-knapsack-with-felted-sweaters-or-knit-fabrics/
:) ...I am having so much fun diving down deep into this fitting issue... I can't wait to share the Top Down Center Out Method with you this week... I kinda think the "scoop" is still happening...It's just happening at the beginning of the process! Thanks for fitting along with me
Vous pouvez en prélever un peu, 1 cm.. puis en prélever plus si vous en avez besoin (dans votre mousseline ajustée) ...J'ai traduit Google ... j'espère que cela a du sens :)
That's a great question! The length of the horizontal line is dictated by the position of the vertical line. Draw the vertical line down from just above the back crotch curve (parallel to the grainline). Then connect that vertical line to the horizontal line... Where they intersect is the length of them. On a full size pattern, these lines will be significantly longer than in this video tutorial. Thanks for fitting along with me!
I do have questions on how to fit someone with a totally different body shape than myself. I carry extra weight in my belly making my waist bigger than my butt and skinny legs comparative. She is more the butt and thighs type. So the question is: do we buy completely different type pant patterns?
That's a great question! If you both fit in the range of sizes offered by the pattern, you can use the same one... most pants patterns are drafted for one shape & you have to adjust it to fit. (It sounds like you may need a smaller size back leg vs. front leg & your friend may need a larger size along the crotch points and inseams)... My Happy Pants Pattern includes in three different crotch shapes depending on where the fullest part of your butt is along the CB seam... Low, Average or High. I have found that this is helpful in fitting because if the crotch curve agrees with your shape, it's so much easier to fit! Here's a link to the pattern/fit workbook in case you want to check it out! jsterndesigns.com/product/happy-non-stretch-pants-pattern-workbook/ Thanks for fitting along with me
One "low butt" isn't another so it seems to me like there should be some measuring involved instead of just randomly modifying the pattern. No? And how do you know if a pattern is designed for a "low butt"?
That is so true.. everybody's butt is different. It's hard to measure for this adjustment because it really depends on how snug your pants are and how much fabric is trapped below the seam in the back... You can scoop a little bit and see if that smooths the wrinkles... If not, you can scoop a little more! If the back crotch curve is even or dips below the crotch level line, it's designed for a low butt. Hope this helps! thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns @J Stern Designs Is is safe to say if you have a bubble butt, as I do, you probably don't have a low butt and it's nothing to be concerned about...except maybe in the other direction? How do the measurements for crotch length and depth play into this? (And thanks so much for your reply. So appreciated!)
Agreed.. But the purpose of this tutorial was to show that you may be scooping the crotch curve even if you make an adjustment that doesn't touch the edge of the crotch seam.... Here's a tutorial that has more information about low butts and how to adjust for them. ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
That's a loaded question! Stay Tune for the answer (because it depends on why it's too long... and which method of fitting you're using to fix it!) Thanks for watching
Agreed... all butts need a little something different! This video is really about all of the negative comments I found on Social Media last year about scooping the crotch. I used the example of a "low butt adjustment" to show that even if you don't physically scoop the crotch, the shape of the crotch dips down as a result of some adjustments... like the low butt adjustment! Thanks for watching
I love that... "hungry bum"... I'm assuming you mean that your pants slide down when you sit down? If so, you need more length in the crotch to sit down. Depending how your pants are fitting you can do a few things to fix this. If you can add more ease at the upper thigh, you can extend the crotch points to make more length. If you already have enough ease on your upper thigh, then you have to lengthen the back crotch length either by slashing and spreading the straight part of the back crotch right above the start of the curve... Or you can Scoop the back of the crotch curve to make it longer (a topic I will be discussing in more detail later in this series!) Thanks for fitting along with me
Just in time for me, without giving too much detail... what if the front is larger than the back?? I am in a wheelchair and sit all day, I am round in front. like ten months pregnant. I have much pulling and horizontal pulling sigh
That's a great questions. I think I would pick a size that agrees with your circumference at your full hip/tummy. Then add to the side seams (2" - 3" inches) so you have room to let out the front side seam and take in the back side seam when you are fitting your muslin. Thanks for fitting along with me.
:) If your pants are comfortable and you like they way they fit... Then you've done it!!! ...If you're curious about whether you have a low butt or not, check this tutorial out. Thanks for watching! ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
That usually happens because your front crotch curve is too low ... Here's a tutorial showing how to fix that. ruclips.net/video/MLcVycwlcvA/видео.html
Do you have an example of this "low butt" on a body? Full disclosure, I am "anti-scoop"... and what I can clearly see in this example of pattern alteration is that the scoop is removing fabric at the curve of the crotch, which is not the under bum, and in doing so it will pinch the center back seam together at that curve. I do agree that sometimes it is simpler to shave off seam lines rather than hack and slash a pattern, but this example doesn't explain why scooping would be an effective "low butt" fit adjustment on a body.
I love it that you're anti-scoop... I believe whatever fitting method works for you is perfect for you! I did this example fit adjustment just to show that adjusting the pattern can have the same affect as simply scooping the crotch curve (I show how the adjustment results in a scoop at the end of the video) Having a low butt does not necessary mean you will need to adjust the pattern for it. It depends on if the pattern is designed to accommodate a butt that's hanging lower. I have found while teaching hands-on pants fitting that if someone's butt is hanging lower than average, it can create a situation where there is too much vertical length under the crotch, causing wrinkles. Scooping or picking up the excess fabric under the butt fixes this. ...Shaving off fabric at the edge of the base of the crotch curve removes fabric under the butt because it moves the stitching line deeper down). Here's a tutorial showing the difference between not having enough depth vs having too much vertical length on the back leg. I don't say it in this video, but the woman in the blue pair of jeans has a low butt... and scooping the back of the crotch curve fixed her wrinkles. (vs. the white pair of jeans that needed more crotch extension). ruclips.net/video/YIhNc4ZneNM/видео.html Hope that helps!
This particular adjustment doesn't have anything to do with a baggy waistband.... It would be a little baggy under your butt because the lower curve would be pushing the fabric down... hope that helps!
:) I was trying to show that you are actually "scooping" the crotch when you do adjustments that change the shape of the curve without physically reshaping the actual edge. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Without seeing the wrinkles in the front of your pants, it's usually the shape or position of the front crotch curve. It's actually a mini version of the back crotch curve. If it's too low, you'll get loose wrinkles, if it's too high, you'll get a camel toe kinda wrinkle. There's also the shape of the front curve itself. It may be too curved or not curved enough to fit your curve. And, if you have a low butt... the front crotch curve needs to be straighter and pointing down to reach for the lower back crotch curve! Hope this helps!
You’re making the explanation very complicated. For a beginner that is looking for help you seem to know your craft, but beginners are looking for help not experts like yourself. You would have more followers if you would be beginner friendly.
Sorry about that... This video is not a teaching video... It was a response to negative things I saw on social media about scooping the crotch. I was simply showing that even if you don't "scoop" the physical shape of the crotch... the shape of the crotch will become scooped by doing other adjustments like a low butt adjustment. I try to make every video easy to follow along with... pants fitting is challenging... Have you tried the Top Down Center Out Method of pants fitting (as described by R. Collins in Threads #218) I have incorporated the use of a single leg muslin and separate waistband into my process... Try watching the pants trouble shooting series that helps you pick a size, trace your pattern, prepare your pattern for fitting, cut and prep the single leg muslin & how to sew your muslin... Very beginner friendly. Here's a link to Part 1: ruclips.net/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/видео.html Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Sorry you made the scooping complicated, your fingers hid the most critical part when you were pulling the dermacations before you covered them with cello tape. So the most critical part was not clear improve on being open thourally. I give you 45% sorry!
Thanks for your feedback. I always try to keep my hands out of the way, but sometimes it still does. Keep in mind that this tutorial really had nothing to do with the actual low butt adjustment or how to scoop the crotch. I was trying to illustrate that you end up scooping the crotch curve, even if you didn't actually draw the scooped shaping along the crotch edge.
Thanks for the suggestion. I try to share examples when they are applicable. This tutorial was just the start of a conversation about a variety of fitting techniques and how they work... I used the Low Butt adjustment to illustrate that you can scoop the crotch curve without actually touching the edge
I have an extremely low backside! I finally figured that out when I stood sideways in front of a mirror and then put a yard stick between my legs. I was shocked at how much the yard stick angled down in the back!!! When I saw the difference in levels with my own eyes, it made me more confident in scooping the crotch. I hadn’t done it aggressively enough until that time. I’ve gradually increased the scoop until I feel like I have it just about right now. It feels wonderful to have pants that fit! Thank you for your generosity in sharing information like this. You are a true treasure trove of knowledge!
So happy to hear that! I love that you checked out your shape from the side view (using a yardstick to see what the angle of the base of your crotch is)... Thanks for the kind words and for following along with me!
Nadine Woods: Would you share how much you actually ended up scooping? I have wondered how much total can be scooped.
Thank you! I have a low butt and have really struggled to get a good fit. I have read several books about pants fitting and finally found my shape in "Pants for Real People" under the subheading called "Crotch Oddities: High Front-Low Back". I found this to be a little insulting but useful.
You are absolutely the best teacher I have found. You have explained the fitting very well, and don't imply that I am an oddity at all.
I am on the same journey. In my twenties I made most of my pants and never had a problem but then maybe I had no idea they actually didn't fit. Anyway, fast forward to 60 and I cannot make a pair of pants that fit. I have recently purchased "Pants for Real People" and Nancy Zeman's book. Plus I have the Sure Fit Design Pants Kit and I still cannot get the pants to fit. I am so frustrated but I keep trying. I have watched tutorial after tutorial. I am looking forward to the Top Down review next week because that was my next step. I just want a simple slim-fit pant design that I can make up out of different colors and feel good wearing.
Thank you for the kind words... We all need to love our bodies the way they are! I think the things that make us unique, make us special! Thanks for fitting along with me :)
@@sibyllolson6747 My mistake was that I carried the same problems forward from one muslin to the next one. It took forever to find the basic mistakes. I was correcting the wrong things.
@@sibyllolson6747 I have been there too. I surely miss when the pattern almost always fit, fit right out of the pkg. I not only have a low butt, but a flat one too. Might say it's gone missing.
This is a much needed tutorial. Can’t wait to see the rest of this series!
Thanks so much... and thanks for fitting along with me
You are a fabulous clothing teacher. Explaining each step in detail and providing illustrations makes a wonderful teacher. (45 years teaching clothing design) ❤
Thank you so much!!
I'm ready and waiting. i love the entire process of garment design, from the original design, to drafting (don't like too many mock ups) then adjusting, discovering fit secrets, finally sewing, and WEARING. My sister calls me 'eccentric!' yup thats me. I'm 66 and in my early 40's decided to dress according to me figure rather than fashion. Recently, I discovered a whole world of Retro/vintage ladies. ahhhh! bliss
:) I love it! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Thank goodness you got this right. LOL. I was worried you were going to say it was not necessary as so many do. I ABSOLUTELY need that scooping and have used it for years. Thanks Jennifer.
Phewww! Thanks for fitting along with me!
New subscriber here from Northern uk. I am a sewing beginner but very enthusiastic after making a pair of Pyjama bottoms from material bought for the purpose 40 years ago ! They are so comfortable I’m delighted. I had no pattern only my own measurements. I have a very high waist so trousers never fit well. I’m 70 but shapely and slim. Your teaching is excellent. Thankyou.
Welcome to my Channel! I'm so happy to hear your success story & thank you for following along with me!
Hi, without your series I would not have worked out that this is what I needed. I am an athletic build and my behind is high. So I need a longer crotch hook, but also a wider crotch high up. All previous amends gave me a massive rise at the rear (to cover my behind) but were still tight when I sat down! So thanks.
:) So happy to help! Thank you for fitting along with me
You are such a great teacher. You make fitting so much easier and practical. Thank you
Wow, thank you for the kind words... and for fitting along with me!
lol Just as you said "never clip your notches" I clipped the Centre Front.....barely within the seam allowance ! Lesson Learned !!
So happy you had breathing room!
I have a very low, very flat butt with a short full belly. After many years of wondering why my crotch never fit, I finally used a "bendable curve" and discovered my problem. My back crotch curve actually dips lower than the inseam line by 1/2 inch. The inseam line must remain higher to meet my short front crotch inseam. I have read that this is fairly common for 75 year old ladies, and I am so happy to see you addressing this. Thanks!
Happy to hear!!! and it's so true that the top of the inseam needs to stay up there to meet the front! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks for demoing this adjustment! This is one I have to apply when sewing pants in order for a good fit. I'd love to take another in person class with you. I really liked you showing the adjustment on paper prior to just sewing (winging) a sewn adjustment. It shoes the "why" of the adjustment!
So happy you enjoyed this tutorial.. and I'd love to see you in another in-person class! Next big event? ...I'll be at the National ASG Conference In NYC this summer
I am also in the camp " if it works it works" . As usual very well explained, thank you!
My Pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns
Could you, please, demonstrate
adjustments for high, curves
and full derrière from standard
sizing commercial patterns?
Thank you for sharing.
@@Bright-It Yes! That’s a great topic, combining a few different fit challenges in one. If you have a pics showing me how your pants fit now, that will help me fine tune the adjustment:). You can email me at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com
Wow! You’re helping so many sewists! Including me!
Happy to help! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Lots of info, thank you!
Nothing worse than a constant wedgie from making pants from a pattern. I always have to shorten the front, scoop the back curve, and slash and spread for more rise. I am underweight for my height, I can’t believe I have to alter my back patterns so much. But I am sure a happy camper when all that work feels( not shows) results.
You are so welcome! Thanks for sharing your processing and for fitting along with me!
Knowing how Amazing this has turned out... YOU'RE SUCH A BA! I LOVE YOU ❣️ AND YOUR SPIRIT IS INFECTIOUS, SO GLAD I FOUND YOUR CHANNEL 💙🥰👋👏👏👏👏
Thank you so much!! I'm so glad you found my channel too! Welcome to J Stern Designs :)
Jennifer, you are a complete star!, wonderful teacher!
Wow, thank you! ...and thank you for following along with me
Your one rule is correct. Seems like common sense to me even though it is easier than cutting out those little triangles.
I use chalk! It fluffs right out!
@@JSternDesigns 👍
Thank you for slowly explaining, this will help me very much
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for fitting along with me
I recently uses a commercial pattern for a pair of trousers for work, I did not make a muslin. When I basted it up the inseam did not match up and the crotch felt uncomfortable. I gave up like you said most do, but after pondering for 2 days ...lol and then I tried scooping the crotch curve and lowered the back crotch curve to reduce the inseam length and it fits much better now. 👍
Nice Job & Good Save! I love it that you walked away and then circled back... I do that myself when a pattern is giving me trouble! Thanks for fitting along with me
I'm very glad you've done this video. I'm a relatively novice pants fitter and was super excited initially to see some of the new methods aimed at the home sewer on Instagram and the like. But then I saw the not altering the crotch curve advice and literally could not see how it would ever work for my body. I am petite, have a prominent butt, a quite low butt and also full thighs (especially front an inner). I can't see how I will possibly get a fit without making crotch curve changes. I'm really looking forward to your review and any following series.
:) I'm so happy you're here fitting along with me! ...Keep me posted if you end up with specific questions I can help you with. I can add them to my list of pants fitting topics!
Oh wow! Brilliant looking forward to more 😍😍😍
Yay! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks. Looking foreword to the rest of your series.
You're welcome... Thanks for fitting along with me!
Looking forward to more content. Thanks. I've enjoyed sewing my jeans and am looking to refine the fit a bit more.
:) Stay tune... There will be some jean fitting topics coming up in future episodes!
Very important adjustment if you need it, thank you.
My Pleasure... Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you for pointing out both how silly it is to do the fancy adjustment vs the easy one, and how an adjustment corresponds to a specific body feature, and should only be used if you have that! Elementary, but clearly still escapes a lot of people, so thanks for the common sense injection
My pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
Omg yes I am thrilled you are doing this series because this is probably my number 1 fitting conundrum and I feel guilty almost when attempting scooping because of all this anti-scooping talk lol!
:) Yay! Thanks for fitting along with me
It's amazing how a little change can make a big difference. I always have to remember that what I do on one pattern piece will be doubled when I cut the fabric!
It is amazing how less is more! & all horizontal adjustments double... but vertical adjustments are not doubled... For example if you take 1/2 off a side seam... that's an inch across the full garment. If you shorten a leg 1/2" ... it's 1/2" shorter on both legs! Thanks for watching!
AMAZING...I never realised this reason
:) Thank you for fitting along with me!
Thanks for this video. I've have not made a pair of pants yet. But are very interested to watch your upcoming videos
My pleasure... Thanks you for fitting along with me... hoping to inspire you to give pants a try!
Great instruction. Thank you. Looking forward to the rest of the series.
Thanks so much... and thanks for following along with me
I think this is great. I have a ow butt and I’m so excited to learn the technique you have. Thank you.
Thanks! ...and thank you for fitting along with me.
Thank you so much for this tutorial! I've tried the crotch-scoop method, but it all seemed so random and kind of weird! I love the way you show what's happening with the pattern change in a more precise way. I think I'll try it this way, then if I like the results, I'll probably be able to remember what the correct scoop looks like and just eyeball a scoop. But this technique will give me much more confidence! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
You're so welcome... I'll also try to share other reasons for scooping the crotch seam... This particular one is for a low butt... There are other reasons and the way you would scoop to change the shape of the crotch curve also varies! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I put the pants on inside out and get my washable marker, pinch and mark, to help see how much I need to remove. Works for me, so I can take them off and see what needs to be done.
@@vdemoor9844 Thanks what an excellent idea.
Excellent - looking forward to your whole series on pants fitting. Could you mention how it changes your pants if you need to wear a Poise Pad - @ 1/2" thick? Would this lower my butt so that I need to make a low butt adjustment or lengthen my crotch curve? Many women of a certain age would appreciate hearing what to do as it is one major reason we sew our own pants. Thanks!
:) Happy you're following along with me! That's an excellent question, I'll add that to my list of fit tips!
Really looking forward to this Jenn. I have the Threads magazine where they talk about the top down method of fitting but haven’t tried it. Thank you so much!
:))) I spent some time on Zoom talking with Ruth... she is such a lovely person and I'm so excited to share her method and how it can help your pants fitting! Stay tuned
Hi Jennifer Stern,
I watched this video on crotch scooping and would like to share a few thoughts:
When I was researching pants fitting, one of the problems with “crotch scooping”, was that it was framed as a debate, “yes” or “no”. But this evades the real question of “Does it help to achieve a better fitting pant?”. Obviously the answer to this question is both “yes” and “no”. So, TDCO is NOT about being pro- or anti-scooping. If you read the published Threads article on TDCO, the word “scooping” does not even appear. A pattern can be fitted to a body in a number of different ways, there is no “Right” or “Wrong” way, just consequences for any particular adjustment. If you are someone who finds a scooping adjustment is needed, you will find that TDCO accommodates all the adjustments necessary for your body. Like every other seam or dart, all parts of the pattern are available and may need alteration to create a customized fit.
Obviously the challenge is the diversity of pant styles which is why I try to reference the look intended by the designer. The more one understands the pattern and design, the better chance of making the appropriate fitting decision.
IthacaMaven
Hi Ruth, This video is not about TDCO, it was a response to all the negative social media post that were floating around instagram over the summer about scooping and other pants fitting adjustments that changed the shape of the draft. I agree with you that there is no right or wrong way to fit pants. The reason why I love TDCO is because it minimizes the number of traditional pants fitting adjustments that may be necessary after you have balanced the front/back leg. Thanks for watching
Really helpful video - I'd reduced the length of back leg due to flat butt, only to see all this extra fabric pooling between my legs. Voila - need to scoop as well. At least it's not too late on this one. Thanks!
Yay, happy to hear! Another thing to check for a flat butt is the angle of the straight part of the CB seam. If it has a significant angle (up towards the side seam), that can also cause wrinkles... Straighten it up a little. Stay tuned for this week's Fit Tip Tuesday! Thanks for fitting along with me
What a great tutorial! Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it, thanks for fitting along with me.
I have a low butt! Thank you for the affirmation for scooping!🥳
My pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me
Love your content and tips. Well presented! Thank you❤️
You are so welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thanks
Thank you so much!! and thanks for watching
I’m so glad you did this video! I took a pants class 3 yrs ago and the teacher drew a side silhouette of everyone’s behind 😄low and behold I have a low seat! Therefore I always need to scoop out my crotch or I have saggy pants! 😆
So happy this helps!! Thanks for fitting along with me!
I love the way you show fitting adjustments. They just make sense when you explain them! I spent weeks scooping my crotch curve but like so many fitting issues, I had to combine that adjustment with another (lengthening the crotch extension) to get the right fit. I’m really anxious for your take on the top down center our method as I just bought the Threads magazine with the article. Off topic question: do you have a pattern for that drawstring back pack behind you? My grand niece needs one of those for dance class!
Thanks so much... and I'm excited to share the TopDownCenterOut method with you! ...I'm teaching the knit knap sack class for Stitches Events (virtually) on September 9th... Here's a link to the class info! (The knap sack in the background was made from two cashmere sweaters that I wore forever and had holes in it... I wish I had "feel-vision" It's so soft :) stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-expo-at-home-september-2022/sew-knits-on-your-machine-mini-knapsack-with-felted-sweaters-or-knit-fabrics/
Great tip. Just remember if you take out from the width pant at crotch you might need to add back at side seam so it is not to tight across the booty.
Yessss if you scoop the crotch and take out width along the CB edge, you will need to let out the side seam to maintain the width of the pattern piece, thanks for fitting along with me.
Precisely what I do. With a full thigh adjustment. With a sway back and full tummy. I have a forward tilted pelvis, with scoliosis and lordosis. Yeah. Lots of adjusting.
:) Nice job!! Keep me posted if you need help with any of your adjustments, thanks for fitting along with me
Very important video! Thank you! Could you include a picture or drawing of a bodytype that you are referring. When english is not first language, these terms like low butt can be somewhat confusing. Thank you!
Thanks... and yes, I'll add some photos of different body shapes next time! Thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much!
You're welcome!
Thanks!
You're welcome! Thanks for fitting along with me
Very good ideas
Glad you like them! and thanks for fitting along with me!
My learning curve here is greater than the curves of my butt!!
Wow... happy to hear that!! Thanks for fitting along with me
First off I can't believe there are educators or other sewists that are not willing or able to help. Isn't the whole point of custom sewing a garment is to get a good fit? Makes no sense. The methods you showed are great and fully demonstrated. But does one go about determining how much to either scoop of "hinge" out? I can't seem to picture how that is determined. I have been a long time fan of yours! Thanks again for a great tutorial.
:) When it comes to scooping less is more... Scoop a little bit, take out the stitching from the original seam in the scoop... Then try on. If you still need more room, you can repeat the adjustment and scoop a little more. ...Keep in mind, as you scoop lower, you're going down to a more narrow part of the leg... so you may need to let out the side seam a little bit. Hope this helps!
I look forward to these videos. I have been practicing on a Simplicity pattern making elastic waist pj pants. My body shape has a fairly flat front; I hold any extra weight in my butt and thighs. The pattern I have has a lot of baggy fabric in the front crotch. I looked at the pattern all laid out after I made the first pair and noticed the only change between pattern sizes was adjusted only in the side seams, and no adjustment in the crotch. I cut out the smaller size for the front piece only and made a new pair in muslin. It didn’t really make a difference with the baggy crotch. I’m not a tall person, so I honestly think this might be a rise issue but don’t know how to fix it.
Since you're already made a pair of pants... Try this to shorten the front rise :) ...and thank you for fitting along with me
Excellent explanation Jennifer! I learned I needed to do that scoop, from either from Cynthia Guffey or Sandra Betzina during an expo class. When I saw the title of your video I was afraid you were going to say that it shouldn’t be done… and I would have had to disagree with you 😂
Thanks Sharon! so happy we (and Cynthia Guffey or Sandra Betzina) agree :) Thanks for watching!
Hi Jen! Blessed be those that only have a low but. Mine is low (producing wrinkles under the butt) but round in the "cheeks" area ("full butt") and pulling there in most of my attempts. And I have a forward tilted pelvis, too. So, I am stumbling in a vicious circle of adjustments (forgot to mention knock legs, too) with one contrary to another... I am not giving up, I have constructed a "decent" made to measure pattern but none of my about ten muslins is really what I expected. I do know there must be some wrinkles at the back to enable moving but not too many - and I want my pants to be comfortable and not to pull when walking... I am going to make rather loose than tight pants. Perhaps these are a few ideas for you to consider... And thank you for your generous sharing your know-how! Btw, I would appreciate a list of your "pant-fitting-series" in one place as I usually come across these just randomly...
You sound a lot like me. I do a tilted pelvis adjustment where I decrease the front rise an equal amount that I increase the back rise. I cut from the lower front crotch (around hip level) to the side seam and overlap 3/8 inch and I make the opposite adjustment on the back where I cut from the lower back crotch (around hip level) to the side and increase by 3/8 inch. I also have to scoop out the back crotch because my backside is that low! As to the pulling in the front, I found that for me personally it is caused by full front thighs. I only have to do a full front thigh adjustment on some patterns, though. Jennifer has a video called “How to Adjust a Pant Pattern for an Athletic Front Thigh” that is very informative. If you are making loose pants this might not be an issue for you, though.
I would really encourage you not to give up. I know it’s a lot of work, but it is so amazing to finally have pants that fit! I don’t think I realized how comfortable pants could really be because I’d never had a pair that truly fit me well. Also after you get a good fitting pair of pants, you can use that pattern to overlay on other patterns to give you an idea of what adjustments you need to make to get a good fit on them, so you will see long term rewards in your investment of time now. Honestly though, I frequently make the same pattern over and over again; it's that comfortable. I mainly use Burda patterns because they seem to be the easiest for me to get a good fit with. I put off trying to get pants to fit for years, and I wish I had just soldiered on instead of thinking it was too hard. I really hope that you can get a good fit in your pants.
That is challenging when you have so many things going on! I do have a pants fitting playlist. When I went to get the link to share with you, I realized that I'm doing a terrible job keeping them organized in there... there's only 5 videos in the playlist. I will gather them up and put them in there, so check back with this link in a little bit! ruclips.net/p/PLseQVksFDkNtpx8xh7oYgStwugAp3kgJ9
Thanks for the encouraging words Nadine!!! & thanks for fitting along with me
Thank you so much for this video. How do you know how much to scoop ?
My Pleasure! The Good News is that you can scoop a small amount... let's say 1/4"... then you can fine-tune and increase the scoop if you need to remove more of the fabric trapped underneath your crotch seam... Just remember to take out the stitching of the original seam where you scoop to release the fabric. Thanks for fitting along with me
How do you know if you need a low butt adjustment or a flat seat adjustment? I don’t know how to tell which I have.
I have a tutorial for that! Here it is & thanks for fitting along with me. ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
There is a gentleman who had a sewing show many years ago who calls those seams the stride, and he said that everyone who makes their own pants should measure out that area to make sure that their pants fits properly. He said to measure then compare to the pattern, and if needed make the necessary changes. Everyone has different body shapes, so why is it surprising that you should measure the stride and make the necessary changes?
:)Thank you for sharing that... I love that the crotch seam was called the "Stride" ... & I'm not surprised at all. No matter which pants fitting method you use, adjusting the measurement of the crotch is part of the process. Thanks for watching.
Would you mind defining “low butt” and how to tell if you have one…for us old folks? I have a problem with all commercial fit clothes and patterns where the front comes up to my bra and the seat pulls down below my underwear band. I’ve always heard it called tilted waist. Is it similar?
:) I have a tutorial for that! Here you go (and thanks for watching!) ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
I figured out scooping the back crotch line on my own. I was having so many fitting issues with my old lady body (anytime I glimpse myself naked in a mirror I always say, "Hey Grandma. How ya doin' ? " I look just like my Grandma from neck to knees.) I spent a HUGE amount of time studying posture and finally realized that even though my bum was now quite flat, the fat that had been there in my youth hadn't been absorbed miraculously into my body, it was still hanging around well beneath my bum. Scooping did the job!
omg this was soooo informative. I have a question as well as a request if possible. would it be possible to show pictures of actual people to get a clear visual of the body type were trying to fit? im asking because i have a very large round behind that i believed was high because i normally need a sway back adjustment but now I'm not so sure because i think i get fabric caught in my curve as well. so now im confused lol!!
Yesssss.... I should have shown what a low butt looks like. Here's a tutorial showing what a low butt looks like vs a flat butt (to go along with this tutorial) ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html ...If you look at yourself from the side view in a mirror... notice where the fullest part of your butt is along your CB seam. This will tell you if you have a low, average or high full butt. ... It is possible to have two of these shapes. Some people have a high round hip and a low butt. If you need help deciding... you can send me photos at jsterndesigns37@gmail.com and I'll take a look! Thanks for fitting along with me
It works for a small adjustment, BIT it removes width from the low hip area - you may need to adjust for that.
Yes... Always add a little "safety seam allowance to the side seam so you can let it out if you need! Thanks for fitting along with me
I truly enjoy the information you are sharing in all these videos onTip Tuesday and Fab Fit Friday. So much value. Do you have or have you considerd putting this information into a book?
Thank you for being so generous with you knowledge and time.
:) I'm starting to offer PDF Companions for my video tutorials. There is one for the Basic Bodice Draft Along... & I will be compiling a PDF Companion for this series (when it's finished). Here's a link to the PDF Companion for the Basic Bodice Draft Along jsterndesigns.com/product/pdf-companion-for-the-basic-bodice-draft-along/ Use Coupon Code Bodice5 for 50% off!
@@JSternDesigns
Thanks for this, Jenn. Just what I’ve been waiting for! 😊
Great explanations. How germane are these tips to mens garments?
Follow up question: any plans on tutorials for drafting menswear? ...thanks
Most of the pants fitting tips I share can be used for men and women's pants. Men do need a little extra ease in the front inseam and the front crotch curve may be a little longer too. Please keep me posted if you have specific fitting challenges.. I can add them to my list. I'm also working on a Man Jeans pattern... it will be out early next year!
Great tutorial! I struggle with pants fitting, so I’m really looking forward to your future videos. I’ve heard some people speak about using the L ruler to determine measurements. Have you ever used this method? Thanks!!
Thanks! I have played with using the L shaped ruler to measure my crotch depth... It's another tool to use to help capture as much info as you can when adjusting your crotch length!
Would increasing the curve alleviate the riding up in uncomfortable places of pajama pants?
If you sew along the original crotch curve a little deeper, that will add a little length... You can try a small scoop, see how they fit/feel... then scoop a little more if you need. The one thing to keep an eye on is that as you sew down deeper, you're going down to a more narrow part of the leg... so make sure you have enough ease so they don't start to feel too tight around your full hip! Thanks for fitting along with me
That's similar to the way I change bust sizes.
Interesting way to look at it... and yes it is!! Thanks for fitting along with me
Is there some formula that will tell us how much to scoop, or do we just have to adjust, try a muslin, and adjust again?
With adjustments like scooping... less can be enough. If you scoop a little bit 1/4" - 3/8" ...and you find that you need a little more ... you can scoop again. If you start out scooping a lot like 3/4" or 1", you may over shoot what you needed to take out and create new fitting issues! Hope this helps :) ...Also did you see my new tutorial sharing how you scoop the crotch... Sometimes scooping down is what you need... but sometimes it may be the back of the crotch curve that needs to be scooped... ruclips.net/video/MZ96dKMeIp8/видео.html
Scoop gives room at back cb but makes hips smaller
Scooping out can cause cutting in.
The way you do it can’t be made in computer
Yes it's true that scooping along the straight part and the top of the back crotch curve takes out horizontal ease. If you scoop the base of the crotch curve, you can pull up the pants farther... This drags up the smaller part of the pant higher. This may also require you to let out the side seams a little bit. :)
Hey JSD! I belong the the LBC (low but club). When you were saying that fabric gets bunched up on a person with a low butt, where you saying the fit is like a wedgy? I'm well acquainted with that syndrome.
:) Let me know if you need help fixing that!! Thanks for fitting along with me!
Will this fix a deep V at the back knee area?
If you have a low butt (meaning you curve inward toward the inseam significantly lower than the front curve), you may be "pushing" excess length down, creating a puddle or I like to call it a "kick" behind the knee. Scooping down along the back crotch curve will pick up that fabric and transfer it to above the crotch seam. If you need extra length from waist to crotch in the back, you're good! If you don't need that extra length... You can pleat it out a across your CB seam to 0 at side seam... Or you can pull it out of the waistline. Hope this helps! Thanks for fitting along with me
how do you measure to find out if you need this?
To determine if you need to remove fabric under the crotch curve for a low butt, it's more about how much fabric is trapped under the crotch curve than measuring for it. I recommend making a small adjustment and trying the muslin on to see if it smoothed the fabric under the crotch curve. If you still have more fabric puddling under ... scoop a little more. I''m sorry this video didn't have lots of info about this adjustment. The purpose of it was to illustrate that you may be scooping the crotch curve even if you make adjustments that don't touch the actual edge of the crotch. :) This tutorial has a lot more info in it about what a low butt is and how to adjust for it. ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
I've learned from you to analyze which patterns work best for my shape. Now I make sure I start with a pattern that is at least close to my shape and adjust from there. Jen, do you have a pattern for the backpack behind you in the video?
Hi Caryl, I'm teaching this class during the September Stitches Expo on Zoom :) Here's a link to the class. If this doesn't work for you, I will be listing the pattern separately as soon as I get a chance! stitches.events/shop/classes/stitches-expo-at-home-september-2022/sew-knits-on-your-machine-mini-knapsack-with-felted-sweaters-or-knit-fabrics/
Thank you. Why this is controversial to some makes me shake my head.
:) ...I am having so much fun diving down deep into this fitting issue... I can't wait to share the Top Down Center Out Method with you this week... I kinda think the "scoop" is still happening...It's just happening at the beginning of the process! Thanks for fitting along with me
Bonjour
Comment déterminer la quantité à creuser ?
Merci
Vous pouvez en prélever un peu, 1 cm.. puis en prélever plus si vous en avez besoin (dans votre mousseline ajustée) ...J'ai traduit Google ... j'espère que cela a du sens :)
@@JSternDesigns I had the same question. Being a native French speaker, I confirm that the Google translation makes sense. Thanks for the video.
Thank you very much for your answer ! J'ai hâte de voir la suite de vos tutos.
Have a great weak !
How do I know if I need the scooping?
There are a few reasons why you may need to scoop...Stay tuned, they're coming!!
How do you know how long to draw the horizontal line from the crotch?
That's a great question! The length of the horizontal line is dictated by the position of the vertical line. Draw the vertical line down from just above the back crotch curve (parallel to the grainline). Then connect that vertical line to the horizontal line... Where they intersect is the length of them. On a full size pattern, these lines will be significantly longer than in this video tutorial. Thanks for fitting along with me!
Where do the cut lines go if the shelf has been lengthened more than the pattern due to a full butt?
I'm sorry, I don't understand the question, can you tell me what the "shelf" is that's a new one for me :)
Oops, I can't remember what I was thinking. The term shelf is the extension or part of the curve that is between the curvy part and the inseam
I do have questions on how to fit someone with a totally different body shape than myself. I carry extra weight in my belly making my waist bigger than my butt and skinny legs comparative. She is more the butt and thighs type.
So the question is: do we buy completely different type pant patterns?
That's a great question! If you both fit in the range of sizes offered by the pattern, you can use the same one... most pants patterns are drafted for one shape & you have to adjust it to fit. (It sounds like you may need a smaller size back leg vs. front leg & your friend may need a larger size along the crotch points and inseams)... My Happy Pants Pattern includes in three different crotch shapes depending on where the fullest part of your butt is along the CB seam... Low, Average or High. I have found that this is helpful in fitting because if the crotch curve agrees with your shape, it's so much easier to fit! Here's a link to the pattern/fit workbook in case you want to check it out! jsterndesigns.com/product/happy-non-stretch-pants-pattern-workbook/ Thanks for fitting along with me
One "low butt" isn't another so it seems to me like there should be some measuring involved instead of just randomly modifying the pattern. No? And how do you know if a pattern is designed for a "low butt"?
That is so true.. everybody's butt is different. It's hard to measure for this adjustment because it really depends on how snug your pants are and how much fabric is trapped below the seam in the back... You can scoop a little bit and see if that smooths the wrinkles... If not, you can scoop a little more! If the back crotch curve is even or dips below the crotch level line, it's designed for a low butt. Hope this helps! thanks for fitting along with me
@@JSternDesigns @J Stern Designs Is is safe to say if you have a bubble butt, as I do, you probably don't have a low butt and it's nothing to be concerned about...except maybe in the other direction? How do the measurements for crotch length and depth play into this? (And thanks so much for your reply. So appreciated!)
Examples would be helpful
Agreed.. But the purpose of this tutorial was to show that you may be scooping the crotch curve even if you make an adjustment that doesn't touch the edge of the crotch seam.... Here's a tutorial that has more information about low butts and how to adjust for them. ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
Do you adjust the waistline or the crotch if you find you pants too long in the crotch?
That's a loaded question! Stay Tune for the answer (because it depends on why it's too long... and which method of fitting you're using to fix it!) Thanks for watching
How to make cloths for overweight with big droopy stomachs?
Stay tuned! I will have tips for fitting pants for your body shape ...My beautiful daughter has a similar shape!
Not all buts are the same. Some buts need more or less butter room.❤ Is that the same as this tip?
Inlike Quiring’s 90 and 180 degree drafting tips.
Agreed... all butts need a little something different! This video is really about all of the negative comments I found on Social Media last year about scooping the crotch. I used the example of a "low butt adjustment" to show that even if you don't physically scoop the crotch, the shape of the crotch dips down as a result of some adjustments... like the low butt adjustment! Thanks for watching
Will doing this scoop get rid of “hungry bum” and will it make pants more comfortable when I sit down? Thank you for this. X
I love that... "hungry bum"... I'm assuming you mean that your pants slide down when you sit down? If so, you need more length in the crotch to sit down. Depending how your pants are fitting you can do a few things to fix this. If you can add more ease at the upper thigh, you can extend the crotch points to make more length. If you already have enough ease on your upper thigh, then you have to lengthen the back crotch length either by slashing and spreading the straight part of the back crotch right above the start of the curve... Or you can Scoop the back of the crotch curve to make it longer (a topic I will be discussing in more detail later in this series!) Thanks for fitting along with me
Just in time for me, without giving too much detail... what if the front is larger than the back?? I am in a wheelchair and sit all day, I am round in front. like ten months pregnant. I have much pulling and horizontal pulling sigh
That's a great questions. I think I would pick a size that agrees with your circumference at your full hip/tummy. Then add to the side seams (2" - 3" inches) so you have room to let out the front side seam and take in the back side seam when you are fitting your muslin. Thanks for fitting along with me.
How does one decide if they have a low butt? I have been sewing years and never had a problem with finished pants, or maybe I am easy to please.
Your comment is so cute
:) If your pants are comfortable and you like they way they fit... Then you've done it!!! ...If you're curious about whether you have a low butt or not, check this tutorial out. Thanks for watching! ruclips.net/video/YYf9-DmZaLU/видео.html
Why does the front leg pull when you walk
That usually happens because your front crotch curve is too low ... Here's a tutorial showing how to fix that. ruclips.net/video/MLcVycwlcvA/видео.html
@@JSternDesigns thank you soo much.
Do you have an example of this "low butt" on a body? Full disclosure, I am "anti-scoop"... and what I can clearly see in this example of pattern alteration is that the scoop is removing fabric at the curve of the crotch, which is not the under bum, and in doing so it will pinch the center back seam together at that curve. I do agree that sometimes it is simpler to shave off seam lines rather than hack and slash a pattern, but this example doesn't explain why scooping would be an effective "low butt" fit adjustment on a body.
I love it that you're anti-scoop... I believe whatever fitting method works for you is perfect for you! I did this example fit adjustment just to show that adjusting the pattern can have the same affect as simply scooping the crotch curve (I show how the adjustment results in a scoop at the end of the video) Having a low butt does not necessary mean you will need to adjust the pattern for it. It depends on if the pattern is designed to accommodate a butt that's hanging lower. I have found while teaching hands-on pants fitting that if someone's butt is hanging lower than average, it can create a situation where there is too much vertical length under the crotch, causing wrinkles. Scooping or picking up the excess fabric under the butt fixes this. ...Shaving off fabric at the edge of the base of the crotch curve removes fabric under the butt because it moves the stitching line deeper down). Here's a tutorial showing the difference between not having enough depth vs having too much vertical length on the back leg. I don't say it in this video, but the woman in the blue pair of jeans has a low butt... and scooping the back of the crotch curve fixed her wrinkles. (vs. the white pair of jeans that needed more crotch extension). ruclips.net/video/YIhNc4ZneNM/видео.html Hope that helps!
Waistband is baggy at the back?
This particular adjustment doesn't have anything to do with a baggy waistband.... It would be a little baggy under your butt because the lower curve would be pushing the fabric down... hope that helps!
@@JSternDesigns this was a suggestion for future tutorials.
Yes please 😍😍
How to understand and make a pattern for your size .
That's another great topic! Stay tuned & thank you for sewing along with me
Did I miss something, I didn’t catch why you can’t just scoop the curve instead of doing all the measuring and realigning!
:) I was trying to show that you are actually "scooping" the crotch when you do adjustments that change the shape of the curve without physically reshaping the actual edge. Thanks for fitting along with me!
What happens when you have wrinkles in the front of your pants..
Without seeing the wrinkles in the front of your pants, it's usually the shape or position of the front crotch curve. It's actually a mini version of the back crotch curve. If it's too low, you'll get loose wrinkles, if it's too high, you'll get a camel toe kinda wrinkle. There's also the shape of the front curve itself. It may be too curved or not curved enough to fit your curve. And, if you have a low butt... the front crotch curve needs to be straighter and pointing down to reach for the lower back crotch curve! Hope this helps!
You’re making the explanation very complicated. For a beginner that is looking for help you seem to know your craft, but beginners are looking for help not experts like yourself. You would have more followers if you would be beginner friendly.
Sorry about that... This video is not a teaching video... It was a response to negative things I saw on social media about scooping the crotch. I was simply showing that even if you don't "scoop" the physical shape of the crotch... the shape of the crotch will become scooped by doing other adjustments like a low butt adjustment. I try to make every video easy to follow along with... pants fitting is challenging... Have you tried the Top Down Center Out Method of pants fitting (as described by R. Collins in Threads #218) I have incorporated the use of a single leg muslin and separate waistband into my process... Try watching the pants trouble shooting series that helps you pick a size, trace your pattern, prepare your pattern for fitting, cut and prep the single leg muslin & how to sew your muslin... Very beginner friendly. Here's a link to Part 1: ruclips.net/video/29iAeDLmvAQ/видео.html Hope this helps, thanks for watching
Sorry you made the scooping complicated, your fingers hid the most critical part when you were pulling the dermacations before you covered them with cello tape. So the most critical part was not clear improve on being open thourally. I give you 45% sorry!
Thanks for your feedback. I always try to keep my hands out of the way, but sometimes it still does. Keep in mind that this tutorial really had nothing to do with the actual low butt adjustment or how to scoop the crotch. I was trying to illustrate that you end up scooping the crotch curve, even if you didn't actually draw the scooped shaping along the crotch edge.
❤❤ omg, what are you talking about?? Show us on real samples of the right and wrong, stop being so lazy !!❤❤❤
Thanks for the suggestion. I try to share examples when they are applicable. This tutorial was just the start of a conversation about a variety of fitting techniques and how they work... I used the Low Butt adjustment to illustrate that you can scoop the crotch curve without actually touching the edge