interesting Video Steve. I haven't tried oven cleaner but will keep it in mind: there's an A5 in the case that is way way to shiney... and in LNER livery to boot, so when I'm up for a quick job, it'll be done ( I'd better get some lining from fox too). I have found differing solutions have differing effects: at First, especially when stripping plastic model I found dettol a quite effective, albeit a slow method to strip back : I've repainted several plastic, resin and metal models quite successfully, and tend to default to using it as a first solution: it certainly works on enamels and acrylics. All was going well until I attempted my then British racing green GWR ROD.... I figure it may have been painted with cellulose based automotive paint as, after a week, all that I managed to do with the green was turn it into a chewing gum like substance: at which point I turned to acetone, which did the job quite nicely. You should find the ready to spray Lacquers much easier to use than enamels: they flatten out very well, and being pre-thinned, you don't have to find the sweet spot when diluting them . I do recommend making sure your airbrush is totally clean and dry if you are using different paint types ( or even use different ones when switching from enamel/lacquer/acrylic) as sometimes the pigment reacts in unexpected ways ( lifecolor acrylics coagulate if they encounter IPA for example!)
I am going to try outlaw or SMS andxmay use it on the B1, I am hearing really good reviews and appear to be idiot proof I have also found out that what is called BR loco green is a BS standard colour they call Deep Bronze Green and SMS produce it ItaBS381C no 224
What I really would love to do is to use some video editing software and make my videos like pro. I don't even know what software to use, it has to be reasonably easy to get a hang off
interesting Video Steve. I haven't tried oven cleaner but will keep it in mind: there's an A5 in the case that is way way to shiney... and in LNER livery to boot, so when I'm up for a quick job, it'll be done ( I'd better get some lining from fox too).
I have found differing solutions have differing effects: at First, especially when stripping plastic model I found dettol a quite effective, albeit a slow method to strip back : I've repainted several plastic, resin and metal models quite successfully, and tend to default to using it as a first solution: it certainly works on enamels and acrylics. All was going well until I attempted my then British racing green GWR ROD.... I figure it may have been painted with cellulose based automotive paint as, after a week, all that I managed to do with the green was turn it into a chewing gum like substance: at which point I turned to acetone, which did the job quite nicely.
You should find the ready to spray Lacquers much easier to use than enamels: they flatten out very well, and being pre-thinned, you don't have to find the sweet spot when diluting them . I do recommend making sure your airbrush is totally clean and dry if you are using different paint types ( or even use different ones when switching from enamel/lacquer/acrylic) as sometimes the pigment reacts in unexpected ways ( lifecolor acrylics coagulate if they encounter IPA for example!)
I am going to try outlaw or SMS andxmay use it on the B1, I am hearing really good reviews and appear to be idiot proof
I have also found out that what is called BR loco green is a BS standard colour they call Deep Bronze Green and SMS produce it
ItaBS381C no 224
Outstanding ~ What about some intro music on the videos? Steve's TopShed theme tune??
What I really would love to do is to use some video editing software and make my videos like pro.
I don't even know what software to use, it has to be reasonably easy to get a hang off