Is your converter's charger still operational? If so, you will need to have a way to disable it while your inverter is on and powering the coach. The transfer switch is sending power to your converter/charger. The converter is powering your 120vAC and the built-in charger. The charger will attempt to charge your battery bank. A loop is created when the transfer switch is receiving power from the inverter (which is supplied by the battery). The loop is battery->inverter->transfer switch->converter->charger->battery. Due to inherit losses, there is a net drain on the system. Basically, you use the battery to charge the battery but there are loses in the two conversion steps. I didn't see you set up a breaker or switch for the charger inside the converter, but you will need to do so. There should be a breaker on the 120v side of your converter. This breaker should be labeled as charger. We can exchange contact information if you want to discuss it outside of this platform.
Man these guys in the comments are really giving you some flak 😂 I’ve been building battery packs since NiCad was acceptable and I think you did a solid job brother. You’ve got a mellow vibe and your video was both interesting and informative. 👍 Pay the pedantic comments no mind. You post a video on YT with so much as a cell repeater install and everyone and their brother is an EE all of a sudden😆. But I would get myself one of those heat guns from Harbor Freight or even Amazon for the heat shrink. Amz has little 350-400w versions for about $14.
Nice install work, but you chose the wrong inverter. That inverter is not UL-458 listed or certified for use in mobile application which makes it potentially dangerous. In addition, it's poor surge power capacity and its lack of an iron core, copper wound output transformer means that it will provide a relatively short life expectancy when compared to a UL-458 listed, low frequency, transformer based inverter.
Very interesting! Thank you for bringing this up. I have a lot more research to do it looks like. I had a Renogy inverter in my last camper too. Again, thank you for the information!
I can appreciate you giving the man some information to keep him powered up, and more importantly safe, truly; but the fact of the matter is that UL certification is irrelevant in this application. Mobile and marine systems do not require UL cert. I’d go further and say that the vast majority of both those communities have no UL listed equipment at all, aside from fuses, breakers/breaker boxes, combiners, disconnects, etc. He is not installing a residential ESS system, and therefore he will not need permits, or inspection to do this work. In that scenario, sure, he’d need UL listed components to pass inspection. Additionally, he did not choose the “wrong inverter”; in fact a high frequency inverter, which you specify often outperforms a low frequency inverter in terms of efficiency. I mean it’s a Renogy 😂 they are ubiquitous in the vanlife/Rv/mobile solar community. That inverter is fine. His install is fine. His terminations and cable runs are clean. The only thing I’d do different is use a heat gun instead of a lighter 😂 and maybe utilize insulated tools, which sadly are outrageously priced, so most ppl don’t have them. There are people running Victron systems in mobile applications that have more battery backup than some grid-tied residential installs; 99% of that equipment is not UL listed. They’re all still alive, their lights are all still on too. Have a great day.
Did I miss the fuse between the batteries and the inverter? Many people have found a hammer more useful than automatic wire strippers. A hammer certainly doesn’t have any cool factor.
Did you place a Fuse onto the positive cable between the inverter and the battery? Some say the inverter has an internal Fuse inside of it, others would say that adding a Fuse is required .... ??? I'll be doing all this next month. How's everything working for ya? Your probably sipping margaritas in Mexico about now :)
Hey Jeff, Sorry for the delay. I did add a fuse after this video. While there are already multiple levels of protection without it it gives me the peace of mind that if there was a fault someone where, there would be a mechanical means to disconnect the battery from the system. I put the fuse in the same compartment as the battery. Everything is going great, unfortunately Mexico didn't work out as planned but I still found a great adventure! Good luck on your project!
Take a look at powering the start link using buck-boot converters, and anything else you can convert 12v to to power instead of using ac to dc converters
All the Starlink ones I’ve found require you to cut open the dishy. I am defiantly not wanting to get that into but I agree finding ways to run things on 12v is so much more efficient than using the inverter to 120v. Thank you for the comment!
I thought about not tying mine in, but the lazy aspect of being able to leave my chargers and internet plugged in so they automatically work (on shore power or by inverter) was my deciding factor to go with the transfer switch.
I never really understood why people waste so much money on building 12v systems. With a 48V system you woulsd save a fortune on just about everything on this install and still be able to power all the same 120v equipment.
I agree with what you are saying. Smaller cables, easier install. I bought these eve cells a couple years ago before I had a better understanding of 48v. Will Prowse preaches the same about not doing 12v. I’m happy with what I have though! Thank you for the input!
He’s got a 2000w inverter, what does he need a 48v system for? He’s not building an ESS for a residential system, he’s just powering his RV. I’ve never met one person running a 48v system in an RV with an inverter
You are 100% right it’s not rocket science. If you position the inverter and battery side by side your using nominal amount of heavy gauge wire. The rest is 6-10 gauge wire to the breaker box and 12v fuses
If you go 48v, you then have to 'convert' that high voltage power back DOWN to 12volt. In a travel trailer, 80% of everything is 12volt. 48 volt maybe cheaper, perhaps. But then you have to purchase and install yet another component to accomplish 12volt. We've all just figured out 12volt. It's like back to college to start figuring out 48volt. Oi!
![Summer Walker - Heart Of A Woman [Official Lyric Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/SFddctbZzw8/mqdefault.jpg)
Is your converter's charger still operational? If so, you will need to have a way to disable it while your inverter is on and powering the coach. The transfer switch is sending power to your converter/charger. The converter is powering your 120vAC and the built-in charger. The charger will attempt to charge your battery bank. A loop is created when the transfer switch is receiving power from the inverter (which is supplied by the battery). The loop is battery->inverter->transfer switch->converter->charger->battery. Due to inherit losses, there is a net drain on the system. Basically, you use the battery to charge the battery but there are loses in the two conversion steps. I didn't see you set up a breaker or switch for the charger inside the converter, but you will need to do so. There should be a breaker on the 120v side of your converter. This breaker should be labeled as charger. We can exchange contact information if you want to discuss it outside of this platform.
Yes. When I turn on the inverter I turn off the converter breaker!
Fantastic. I am looking forward to the airchair ride along this Spring and Summer.
@whiterabbit2786 could you give me some tips on installing a 3000 watt inverter ? You seem to be knowledgeable on the subject.
Man these guys in the comments are really giving you some flak 😂 I’ve been building battery packs since NiCad was acceptable and I think you did a solid job brother. You’ve got a mellow vibe and your video was both interesting and informative. 👍 Pay the pedantic comments no mind. You post a video on YT with so much as a cell repeater install and everyone and their brother is an EE all of a sudden😆. But I would get myself one of those heat guns from Harbor Freight or even Amazon for the heat shrink. Amz has little 350-400w versions for about $14.
Thank you for the kind comment! I am loving this setup. I truly never worry about not having power! Thank you for the tip on the heat guns!
Nice install work, but you chose the wrong inverter. That inverter is not UL-458 listed or certified for use in mobile application which makes it potentially dangerous. In addition, it's poor surge power capacity and its lack of an iron core, copper wound output transformer means that it will provide a relatively short life expectancy when compared to a UL-458 listed, low frequency, transformer based inverter.
Very interesting! Thank you for bringing this up. I have a lot more research to do it looks like. I had a Renogy inverter in my last camper too. Again, thank you for the information!
I can appreciate you giving the man some information to keep him powered up, and more importantly safe, truly; but the fact of the matter is that UL certification is irrelevant in this application. Mobile and marine systems do not require UL cert. I’d go further and say that the vast majority of both those communities have no UL listed equipment at all, aside from fuses, breakers/breaker boxes, combiners, disconnects, etc. He is not installing a residential ESS system, and therefore he will not need permits, or inspection to do this work. In that scenario, sure, he’d need UL listed components to pass inspection. Additionally, he did not choose the “wrong inverter”; in fact a high frequency inverter, which you specify often outperforms a low frequency inverter in terms of efficiency. I mean it’s a Renogy 😂 they are ubiquitous in the vanlife/Rv/mobile solar community.
That inverter is fine. His install is fine. His terminations and cable runs are clean. The only thing I’d do different is use a heat gun instead of a lighter 😂 and maybe utilize insulated tools, which sadly are outrageously priced, so most ppl don’t have them.
There are people running Victron systems in mobile applications that have more battery backup than some grid-tied residential installs; 99% of that equipment is not UL listed. They’re all still alive, their lights are all still on too. Have a great day.
Did I miss the fuse between the batteries and the inverter? Many people have found a hammer more useful than automatic wire strippers. A hammer certainly doesn’t have any cool factor.
Hey! You did not miss it. I did not install it until after this video was recorded (delivery took a while). Thank you!
Did you place a Fuse onto the positive cable between the inverter and the battery? Some say the inverter has an internal Fuse inside of it, others would say that adding a Fuse is required .... ??? I'll be doing all this next month. How's everything working for ya? Your probably sipping margaritas in Mexico about now :)
Hey Jeff, Sorry for the delay. I did add a fuse after this video. While there are already multiple levels of protection without it it gives me the peace of mind that if there was a fault someone where, there would be a mechanical means to disconnect the battery from the system. I put the fuse in the same compartment as the battery. Everything is going great, unfortunately Mexico didn't work out as planned but I still found a great adventure! Good luck on your project!
Take a look at powering the start link using buck-boot converters, and anything else you can convert 12v to to power instead of using ac to dc converters
All the Starlink ones I’ve found require you to cut open the dishy. I am defiantly not wanting to get that into but I agree finding ways to run things on 12v is so much more efficient than using the inverter to 120v. Thank you for the comment!
@@KolbyAdventures-qi2yr ruclips.net/video/zy6EqYZlscU/видео.html&pp=ygUMc3RhcmxpbmsgMTJ2
I kept my system at 12 volt. I did not tie inverter power in to the rv system, I kept it separate.
I thought about not tying mine in, but the lazy aspect of being able to leave my chargers and internet plugged in so they automatically work (on shore power or by inverter) was my deciding factor to go with the transfer switch.
I never really understood why people waste so much money on building 12v systems. With a 48V system you woulsd save a fortune on just about everything on this install and still be able to power all the same 120v equipment.
I agree with what you are saying. Smaller cables, easier install. I bought these eve cells a couple years ago before I had a better understanding of 48v. Will Prowse preaches the same about not doing 12v. I’m happy with what I have though! Thank you for the input!
I learned my lesson and now 48 volt but used my 12 volt system for my solar fridge and deep freezer
He’s got a 2000w inverter, what does he need a 48v system for? He’s not building an ESS for a residential system, he’s just powering his RV. I’ve never met one person running a 48v system in an RV with an inverter
You are 100% right it’s not rocket science. If you position the inverter and battery side by side your using nominal amount of heavy gauge wire. The rest is 6-10 gauge wire to the breaker box and 12v fuses
If you go 48v, you then have to 'convert' that high voltage power back DOWN to 12volt. In a travel trailer, 80% of everything is 12volt. 48 volt maybe cheaper, perhaps. But then you have to purchase and install yet another component to accomplish 12volt. We've all just figured out 12volt. It's like back to college to start figuring out 48volt. Oi!
Time to buy a hammer!
🤣 I agree but I still have been making do with everything except a hammer!