2015-2023 Mustang Ford Rear Wheel Bearing And Hub Assembly Installation
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- Опубликовано: 25 окт 2016
- Product Link: www.cjponyparts.com/ford-rear-...
In this video, Bill & the crew at CJ's will show you how to install this Ford Rear Wheel Bearing And Hub Assembly on your 2015-2023 Mustang from the comfort of your own shop or garage!
Individually sold and featured as a complete hub assembly, this direct-fit OE replacement is going to fit your LH or RH side. Your S550 is going to be complimented properly with this genuine Ford wheel bearing and hub assembly. Improving both the safety and the handling when your old bearing starts getting too much wear from age and use, this wheel bearing and hub assembly is the ideal solution.
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Great video. If anybody is planning on doing this he was mistaken it is not a 36 mm it is a 32 mm on the hub nut. At least it was on my 2015 GT Mustang
Just found out the hard way, you are correct it is 32mm
Yep, I should have listened to you. The FRONT is a 36mm and the REAR is a 32mm.
Yes 32. Please Edie this video
do the performance packs have 36?
What a great video. I love cj pony part videos. They are very helpful and they have a lot of patience. Also thank you for this video that now I found whats wrong with my left rear hub!
Great video and insight to this issue, thanks.
Good video Bill.
Thanks for this video. I just got it installed on the left rear of my 2015 GT but i never lowered the car or anything. Maybe its from shifting fast and hard through the gears that made my wheel bearing go bad but i dont know. I just know your video helped me install the part. Thanks man!
Maybe the donuts you have being doing like me 😁
4:58 At this point you take 10 sec more to take off the ABS sensor ... There's too much tension on it.
Yup agreed I busted my abs cable trying to remove mine and ended up buying a new one.
yeah, that's what I did as well, ended up taking the entire assy off so I could put it on the bench with the uggadugga for the 4 hub bolts.
Love the part where it shows how impossible it is to get the wheel bearing hub out, once everything is disassembled…
Halfway through this install in my garage and found out my axel nut isn’t a 36mm, but appears to be a 32mm most likely.
Stranded with the car on stands until the wife gets home and I can go out and get the right size socket 🙃
OHBUCKEYESisBACK Happened to me too, and I paid $25 for the 36mm socket.
Literally doing mine right now. It is 100% a 32mm. Glad I got a kit with 4 sizes.
I'm in the same boat fucking dumbass cant even get a socket size right
OHBUCKEYESisBACK i baught the fucking wrong one 36 was too big
@@donniewand231 who's the bigger dumbass, the guy that made a mistake speaking in front of a camera or the purse carrying fucktard that was too stupid to make sure he had all he needed before he ripped his car apart? Seems to me like if you're dumb enough to rely on videos instead of technical manuals to work on your shit you should probably take it to a garage.
Nice video! Where did you get your blank deck panel? Can't find any besides carbon fiber ones! Liked!
The blank panels were made by Ford Performance but have been discontinued.
Nice vid Bill! Creaking and popping noises at low speed and on surface streets at low speed is what I have now on my 2016 that has been lowered for 15 months with about 12K miles put on them. I've been thinking it was the last mod I put on, the BMR toe links but living in denial about those and have been doing a lot of investigating on the cause....such as rear sway bar, the solid vertical links, the cradle lock out. I notice that on your vids that raising the axle assembly to ride height prior to final tightening and torquing the suspension bolts is not shown. Isn't that a necessary step?
Dude you make this look so easy. I'm stuck trying to get my old hub out.
I’m stuck right now how do I get it out
@@ODANGELO it took me awhile but I did get it out with a littler persuasion.
i have a 98 mustang gt and need to know if a front hub assembly is the same as a rear hub assembly
Wow, great video. Very easy to follow. Thanks!
Is it hard to get it in the spindle. Meaning is it pressed in by tightening the bolts or is it really that easy to place it in place? And does anyone know what the main hub bolts should be torqued to? As well as suspension arms.
The parking brake has to be down for this install right? Have a new bearing on order since my passenger rear wheel has some play and has been making some not so nice sounds while driving.
Rear axle nut is 32mm you can use a regular 1/2^ drive shallow socket no need for a deep socket or a special thin wall axle nut soket
Anyone know the torque specs for these bolts taken off and put back on? Is a clunk/clicking noise coming from the rear when changing from P to R/D also clunk/clicking noise when accelerating from a stop.
What are the torque specs for the bearing on a 2018 Ecoboost mustang
I have a question can a 1992 ford econoline rear axel be upgraded for a 2012 Mustang rear axel
If anyone is here because of a lit up dashboard showing ABS, traction cntr off etc. it's not always a bad wheel bearing. The axle thrust washers behind the bearing tend to break and cause this issue. Still have to do these steps shown here to access and replace it. Also it's a 32mm for the Axle nut.
I’m here for that issue and my hub bearing has crazy play. Where do I get the washers from and perhaps do you have a part number?
@@kirkzinner3752 Ford Axle Thrust Washer Genuine Ford Part Number FR3Z-7G273-A. If your wheel has play it's the hub assembly but can be the washer along w/ it. you wont know till it's taken apart. Make sure to purchase the correct hub. The front and rear hub bearing assemblies differ. Have a jaw puller on hand for the rotor if it has never been pulled off or you live in the rust belt. AutoZone rents them out.
Ima assume I need an alignment after taking al this off ?
Because now my rear end is wobbly after replacing the bearing
Don't see the thrust washer between the spindle and hub.
Mine broke throwing a ABS cade.
What coil over set up is that?
i replaced mine i didn’t take all off the knuckle a loose i just reached behind a used a ratchet with extension on it because you have to get realigned if you do it this way
So my abs light came on for my 2017 ford mustang and I got the the code. It said I have to replace the right rear wheel tone ring, does that mean I have to replace the Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly? Cause I’m tryna find the wheel tone ring and can’t find the part or where it would fit on the cv axel?
Torque specs for all bolts please??….
Has anyone tried just adding red locktite and re torquing the axle nut? In my case, I was hearing creaking, popping sounds when starting out in first gear and going into reverse. I jacked up the car and noticed that there was a little play when i tugged the wheel up and down and side to side. I compared this play to the other side, and the other side was rock solid. Saw this video from Bill and I got me thinking. I decided to check my axle nut for tightness, I put a 1-1/4" (32mm) socket on it and I probably tightened it about 2 whole turns! The sounds are gone and the car is fine. I did all this after I already ordered my new hub assembly from CJs, but I plan to keep it in case the bearing does actually start to fail sooner now that the axle nut has been loose and probably causing the bearing premature wear. Either way, I plan to check my axle nut torque every oil change now. You guys may want to add that to your maintenance items as well.
I'm thinking this has a lot to do with it...
I went through the whole install. Changed the bearing and the popping went away. 2 days later popping is back. I'm convinced the axle nut is the problem as my old bearing was solid but I changed it anyway.
shit, i'm in the same boat as you were a year ago. I've already ordered my bearing, but i should tighten that nut too.
how about your front wheel bearing
Anyone able to remove the 4 bolts without unbolting the control arms/loosening the vertical links?
Yes I was. Replaced both rear hubs on my 2017 tonight.
Was it difficult to access those bolts without loosening the control arm/vertical link?
To bad they don't also mention the one time use axle nut. The shop told me today they're one time use only.
Thrust washer not needed then?
No threadlocker on wheel bearing bolts??
where can I get those rotors veey nice...good video
They are available on our website!!
www.cjponyparts.com/baer-brakes-rear-brake-rotor-eradispeed-plus-2-piece-13-pair-performance-pack-ecoboost-gt-2015-2017/p/BR92/
@@Zerogivengarage would you recommend Moog wheel hub bearing or Ford factory wheel hub bearing...
Is it common for ABS light to come on when wheel bearings go out?
Yes, it will also likely throw an AdvanceTrac code. Once I got the bearing replaced the code disappeared.
can you access the whole hub bolt behind the knuckle without removing the control arm bolts and removing the half shaft?
Yes
Trying rn. The socket wont fit properly.
To save a step, take the bracket and caliper off together.
PLEASE MAKE SURE ITS NOT JUST A LOOSE AXLE NUT. I swore I needed a new hub assembly but I noticed that the axle nut was loose. I tightened it and it solved all of my problems. It’s a 32mm btw
Did you have any codes?
@@MotorCityMoto Nope, just a loud noise coming from the wheel and I was able to shake it back and forth.
Betcha you lost a thrust washer, if you ever tear apart the rear end check the opposite side for one
@@sirseven3 I just realized he didn't install a new one in the video.
@@theecarking I didn't see it but some cars don't have them, ive seen a bunch of forums about not having one but ford states that all should have them. If you lose it and it's never there wheb you go to replace the half shafts it's tough to know it needs one.
One question
Will this make the sensors to turn off by itself, or will it need to be fix in the dealer?
Did it turn off?
Please replace thrust washers while you're in there. Also, should I be using red loctite on the axle nut?
I just found out I had to replace it… mine was torn apart, gotta take off everything again and find a new washer
Hey bill my abs light just came on and will not shut off on my 2015 mustang. Any idea on what to do?
D Simms did you end up getting this fixed? I’m having the same issue
Omar Quintana mine did the same thing last night ! I changed the bearing today and all the lights went off
Why not removeing the abs sensor
It's happened to me in my car to but all the lights comes on Do you guys think is the wheel bearing please any help appreciate
Bad wheel bearings can cause issues with the ABS sensor which will trip lights.
Is not the rotor wrong install?
32mm hub socket not 36mm for my 2015 GT PP1
Should get a fine tooth ratchet works smoother
Isn’t there a thrust washer missing there before assembling the hub back on the axle ?im about to replace my hub this weekend and ordered the thrust washer too I’m confused ?
I just saw the video and you are right its missing there
2015 and 16 didn't have thrust washer
@@CarsandChrisyes mine did, had to find out the hard way that I have to replace that
Alot of people have claimed retorquing their axle nut fixes their popping clunking but they never check for the thrust washers. I'd say that's where the issues are coming from. There's even an updated thrust washer ford makes thats much thicker than oem to allow for better strength. I lost mine taking a hard right over a few softball sized bumps sliding and it cracked my thrust washer and it's been making noise as described by most like clunking into drive and reverse and clicking when taking off.
@@sirseven3 bro I changed the wheel bearing, the sensor, the washer and my lights still on for the same codes…
Do you need an alignment after this?
In theory you shouldn't since no adjustments were made but I would get it checked to be safe, too much rear negative camber is one of the leading causes of hub bearing failure.
Did you have the advance track mode light on, abs, traction control, hill assist lights and the steering wheel getting hard?? That's what's happening to my2017 and I did lower it
This just happened to me too. How did you fix it?
its happening to me to
its the ABS TONE RING
Just fixed it replace the hub and your fine.
Did you get this fixed I just replaced mine and had the same issue?
Mine too it’s the brake sensor
My issue with this video is that they completely skip over the part of ACTUALLY REMOVING the bearing and hub assembly!! Like, isnt that the whole reason for the video!? Yes, its nice to know what to detach for more room while working on the ACTUAL BEARING/HUB. But the HARDEST part of the entire job, aside from removing the rusted rotor, is removing the bearing and hub assembly! It took me a couple different efforts all to realize a Sledgehammer works best!
Currently having issues detaching the hub and bearing assembly after removing all the bolts. How/ where did you hit it to get it off?
I really appreciate your videos, but I wish you would include torque specs when you do these install videos.
One grunt on the small bolts, two grunts on the larger ones.
Can this be a reason why my car wiggles alot 2016 mustang
this is where ALL the wiggle comes from
Most of the required tools part needed seem to be not matching up with your video. I went out and bought a new Axle nut socket and found its the wrong size. Mine appears to be smaller than 36mm. What is going on here. I am the original owner. I've never changed these out before.... why is it different from what you call for?
People were saying it's supposed to be 32mm, not 36
Are these better quality bearings?
There is only OEM Ford available at this time.
Raphael Navarro u
Is there better ones available yet? Not looking forward to doing this every couple years.
What is the torque spec for the 4 bolts connecting the actual wheel hub?
I’m looking for the same info
Good n tighten 😂
How are these compate to autozones? It's so easy to change out, maybe autozones lifetime is a better option?
Here because my control arm bolt disappeared and i have to remove the whole hub assembly just to get to it 😢😢
Axle nut is 32mm. Not 36.
i’m so mad rn about this
@@chadengles2104 ?
My axle nut isnt 36mm its smaller. I have a 2016 gt premium.
Etienne Retfird Mine was too.
Etienne Retfird I know I had to beat the half shaft out of the bearing and then I had to press the bearing out of the knuckle. None of it came apart as easy as the video. As far as pulling the half shaft out of the rear end, I didn't use a pry bar. I pushed it in and gave it a tug and it slid right out.
My half shaft was bent already or I wouldn't have beat it out.
@@shawnjozwiak1499 Yea, it's the 05-09 that's 36.
So do I need an ailment after replacing the wheel bearing hub?
yes.
This video does unnecessary things.
Remove the caliper and bracket. Remove axle nut. Unbolt the hub. Reverse and done. Shouldn’t need an alignment as long as the extra stuff isn’t taken apart like in this video.
Do I have to take it to the shop so they can reset the computer because my lights are still on?
luis lopez did you ever get the lights to come off? I’m having the same issue
What did you do to get them to go off?
@@bromar2014did you ever get yours off?
32mm axle nut, not 36 guys
Something tells me he didn't get that extra 45 degrees on the axle nut. Haha
I noticed that, too. 45 degrees my ass! LOL
Needs correction and fact check. Bought wrong socket for hub and now the stores are all closed for the weekend.
i’m glad i bought a 36mm socket for nothing. cause that hub nut sure as fuck isn’t 36mm
These guys always leave out tons of details in their videos.
Don’t even need to disassemble the rear suspension at all.
It’s a bad video you said 36mm I buy it put everything down and then surprises it’s 32 mm 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
Was grinding and howling took it in to a repair pal certified place they charged a diagnostic 89$ said it was the wheel bearing and I asked if it was covered they said yes but only partially I called maxcar (CarMax) they said it was covered I asked why I was paying out of pocket $500 they said the auto repair place was charging more for labor and parts than what they actually cost. Called the guy he said if they only took what was paid they would not make a profit. Next day said both wheel bearings need to be replaced he said he didn’t know until he took the wheels off? Earlier said diagnostic said one and also how can a diagnostic detect a bad wheel bearing? Next day said I should be able to come pick up. Get there and saw it on the lift parts everywhere. He said they had to cut off the axle bc they could not get it off to get to the wheel bearing…earlier he said he removed the wheels and visually said the wheel bearing is bad…he said I needed a new axle now. That it would be covered…10 mins later he said it would be done in an hour then said I needed a brand new wheel hub assembly now…next day said I needed new breaks I asked what the cost was he said 89$ and he wouldn’t charge for labor. Next day come to pick up the car. The trunk is damaged and majorly scuffed up and on the side. I drive back he said he laid the old parts on top but the side was not his doing. He asked for the keys and pulled it off to the side of the shop. I decided to go look at what he was doing. He had a big jug and started pouring it on the damage trunk then grabbed a old dirty rag off the ground and I asked what it was and he said break oil…it’s good at getting scratches out. He did it on the side too. Now my care is super damaged. He did not come back to speak with me. Instead a younger man did and said he had a buff kit he could bring from home to try to get the scratches out…this is not a paint shop. I had to go back to work on break. Leaving work I turned the car on and it started shaking and the a/c started blasting hot air and I could not turn it off. The other button was lit up that says auto air, and the rear defrost was on. I could not get it to stop or turn off. It took a while but i finally got it to work somewhat. Reversing making a weird clicking noise and the tire where the work was done was flat. Filled it up w air. When I break noise is made and the car pulls to the right. I don’t know what to do at this point and I am asking for help. I think they have destroyed my car and I feel as though this is not normal. I paid out of pocket $600+ dollars and the insurance paid the rest at around $3000. The itemized list is not broken down and does not make sense. The shop is located in Cary NC called Crossroads Auto Repair off walnut street. The loaner car that was given to me was insane and most would not believe it. A doge caravan. The anti lock breaks were broken the abs light and traction control light was on and the engine light came on. Water would pour out from under the dash and I almost crashed bc of the breaks. The entire roof lining is gone with tons of particles falling off and in the air. No way could this be legal. If anyone could help me I would be grateful. The reviews were hidden has I known I would have never gone. The man apparently is violent and tried to hit customers. Other reviews says he put on old tires from 1999 and was caught. I’m afraid to drive my car tomorrow but I have to work or I’ll get in trouble.
Lots of extra work in this video that simply isn’t necessary. Unbolt caliper and caliper housing. Unbolt axle nut. Unbolt hub and bearing. Reverse. Done.
Was it difficult to access the bolts that attach the hub to the assembly?
@@MrMartydonut it wasn’t bad at all honestly.
I downloaded a 9,500 page service manual and it doesn’t give any of these steps - all they show is using a hub removal tool and that’s it - none of the other steps - it doesn’t even mention the “bracket” that he removes 🤷♂️
The “stealership” wanted to charge me $900!!!
@@MrMartydonut if you are fairly handy with cars this is easy.
I did the driver side first so it took me longer because I was taking my time. Once I knew all the stamps I did the passenger side in probably 30 to 40 min and I still wasn’t rushing.
I bought Timken Hubs fro Rockauto for $55 each. The dealership wanted $270 PER HUB! They can’t be that good if my car needed them at 31,000 miles lol. Now to be fair I do some fast paced mtn runs so I’m sure that contributed to them needing replacement.
Lol he removed the brake lines it’s a pain in the ass
Wow that is so fucked compared to last generations...5 extra steps and rear bolts? FML
Lol.... this video is a joke.....😄😆😄😆😄😆
that car will never run the same , ruined the alignment ,, turned gravy into a science project,, does not look like dealership material ..