Kris Power Pump 1 6JU6 driving 2 6LQ6 learn something new everyday.
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- Опубликовано: 29 авг 2024
- Almost the exact same amp as the Kris Mach 3B I just did, except the front face on this only has a 'Tune' cap and a 'Drive' cap. That's interesting. After some investigation, found that the 'Tune' cap is indeed the output Tune cap and the 'Drive' cap is the driver 'Tune cap. OK, but where is the output 'Load' cap? Well, with a little more investigation and a look at the schematic, found this this amp actually has 2 Load caps. 1 for the Driver and 1 for the output! It is unusual to have a Load cap for the driver as most amps use a simpler circuit for the driver. Most use a more basic 'L' circuit consisting of a Tune cap and the coil only. Not Kris. They use a full Pi circuit with the Tune cap, coil, and Load cap for the driver and the final. It is normal and almost all amps use a Pi for the final, but not the driver. Problem I have with this amp is that the final Load cap is underneath the chassis. Can't get to it. I have said in previous vids that the Load cap more or less tunes the antenna. So if you are operating a station and change the load (the antenna or another amp after this one etc) then to do it right, the Load cap should be retuned again. Not very practical with it being underneath. I don't have a problem with the driver Load cap being underneath. Basically once adjusted or tuned, it really doesn't need to be messed with unless the tubes are changed. On the very similar Mach 3B amp, the output Load variable cap is on the front as it should be. I don't know what Kris was thinking by putting the output Load cap underneath. Maybe going cheap with cost? I not to long ago had asked why the Blue 'Palomar' but not the real Palomar Skipper 300 with 4 6146 tubes in it had a 3 position switch marked 'Loading' on it. I got an answer from the guy that designed it saying the 'Loading' switch used 3 fixed capacitors to vary or tune the load instead of a normal variable capacitor. I asked why would you do that? He said those little white variable caps are $20 a piece while the switch and the 3 fixed caps cost $1. It's always about the money, right?
I just sold my Power Pump a few months ago. Good little amp.
I like these little Kris's. Don't do a whole lot of watts, but pretty clean for a CB amp.
I'll continue to view your videos. It's great to be rightfully informed.
Thanks
Seems the amp was designed as a low cost intro amp.
Thanks for the video Doc.
Low cost? See the no name transformerless amp I just posted.
That's very clean
Thank's
I like those caps on the final tubes. The ones on the top of the tubes
Not original, I got them online many moons ago. The amp originally came with 1 black one and 1 missing.
She's doing more than the 3b
I think it's a matter of how good the tubes are.
Hello, can you tell me what component is on the board marked REC-3 on outer edge of board at rear?
That big ugly brown choke is RFC3 on the CBTricks.xyz schematic. Its purpose is to ground the driver tube when the relay keys and is connected to the input SO239 coming in to ground. This works and keeps the tube cool and non conducting until the amp is keyed, but the downside is that very choke is connected to the radio input side at all times. Hence, it can and will mess with your SWR even with the amp off and unplugged. Amp makers used this as a cheap shortcut for cost. A better way that wouldn't mess with the SWR all the time would be to use a relay with an additional leg, (or Pole) and the additional relay leg would connect to this choke to ground it and activate the tube when keyed instead of using the input line. Probably cost $1 or $2 dollars extra for the extra leg on the relay 4pdt instead of 3pdt, but that's money the amp makers don't want to spend.
Tramdr, are the variables underneath preset at the factory....? Or must you make them part of the tune procedure? Waiting for response, Thanks
tubes age, specs change, etc. All variables like that should be tuned correctly.
Trandr, at abut 4:47 you mention a manual for the Kris Power Pump. I'm"Elmering" a friend with one of these having some trouble and I can't find anything but the schematic. Can you tell me where you found that?? Would love to get my mitts on it. Thanks!
This is very close. cbtricks.org/Amp/kris/200b/graphics/kris_200b_om.pdf
@@tramdr Thank you very much for pointing the way!!!!
Hey Doc, What the heck is that Monster to the left of the Kris Mach 3 at the 4:07 mark of your video? ruclips.net/video/krD4hdGvGHM/видео.html
Henry RF Generator with a single 8877 converted to 10 meters.
Do you still have that blue box Palomar with the (4) 6146s? Those things are bad ass. I would love to copy one. I know 2 people that still have em.
No, I don't have it. I did make a sketch/semi schematic of it somewhere. It is similar in specs to the Blackcat JB-75 but 4 tubes instead of 2. It is transformerless for the HV though. Uses a voltage quintupler right of the ac mains. Its a beast, almost unlimited HV current with that design, but on the other hand, dangerous. Not on that box, but there has been a couple Big Boys, who used that design for the HV, who have died when something went wrong with it. No safety protection.
@@tramdr oh damn thats crazy so it takes the ac right off the line , quadruples it. Thats crazy. Ya they run like crazy. Im trying to see if my other buddy will sell his. My uncle also has one but he said he would never sell it. Haha its a sweet small box that pumps. Even with those dangers i would still be interested in building one or a copy. I am well aware of the dangers of HV. I have a 2 piece amp supply 3 tube 3-500z amp and man those 2 piece units scare me...even tho this one is different and they don't use a connector for the HV. Im deffently interested in what you have drawn out for that style of amp. I also have a yeasu FT102 with 3 6146s in the final. They only use a 12by7 to drive the 3 tho haha. I am game to build a copy of one of those skippers. Shit id rock it just fot am.
One of the things I've noticed with most amps is that they don't use a 3 wire grounded plug. Where this presents a hazard is if everything from the radio to the antenna is ungrounded. This is easier than you might think to inadvertently construct. With an unpolarized 117 vac plug there is a possibility of plugging it in and having the chassis, and everything connected to it, become energized. To avoid this, make sure that your antenna has a good ground. If you're using an amp, unplug it, open it up, and with an ohmmeter determine which prong on the line cord goes to the power switch. Mark it, and plug it into the right (smaller slot) side of the mains receptacle.
I am repairing one of the same, it is in very bad condition and manipulated. Greetings from Catalonia
Good Luck, let me know how it comes out.
@@tramdr It's already working
What'd you find?
@@tramdr incorrect modifications and a broken lampholder pin, and incidentally change capacitors and filament cables in poor condition. I am also going to try to change final valves for another type, there is one that turns red when transmitting
Try switching the tubes to see if its the tube or the amp. There aren't a lot of better options for the 6lq6 tubes.
Perhaps there is no tunable load control because your antenna is supposed to present a 50 ohm load and the amp is already tuned (set) for 50 ohms. The amp was designed back when the cb band was only a couple hundred kc wide. So there wasn't much need for tunable loading.
Sorry, you are way way way off on that one.
@@tramdr Okay, so explain the logic of putting the load tuning control where it is not accessible... What is the impedance of a CB antenna supposed to be? How wide was the CB band back then? And, why is there no adjustable input SWR on this amp? Perhaps you can tell me what the engineer was thinking when he/she designed the amp this way.... Please tell me how and where I'm way way off... Gee, you thought those were for adjusting input SWR... Way off?
Sure, I can explain everything you said in one word, Sir: COST.
Why Why Why? Riddle me this:
Why did the Tram D201 hardwired which is considered by many to be the best CB radio ever made, go from hardwired to circuit board and from USA made to Mexico?
Why did the Browning change from the Mark 3, which is another of the best CB radio's ever made, change from the steel chassis-handwired to the Circuit Boards on the Mark IV?
Why did Browning use a PLL on the Mark IV?
Why did Browning originally use the white Molex plug on the Mark IV instead of the Black Cinch Jones?
Why does the Heathkit SB-220 use an undersized HV transformer and also a weak voltage doubler circuit?
Why did the new Blue Palomar 300 box, not the old 300a, use a few switched fixed capacitors for the Load instead of an air variable? I asked the builder of that that question and you know what the builder/engineer told me? Hint, it was a four letter word that begins with C.
Why did Blackcat use a couple of fixed Silver Mica capacitors for the Tune Cap in the infamous JB-2000? Same question for the Blackcat JB-76?
Why do most CB amps not have a tuned input at all?
Why don't more amps use vacuum variables instead of air variables?
Why don't more amps use vacuum relays?
Why, why, why, why, and why?
I got one how many watts does it do?
watch the video.